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Why lug-to-lug matters more than diameter (and how to actually pick a watch that fits)

Diameter is the number every product page leads with. lug-to-lug is the number that decides whether the watch stays on your wrist. a tour through the WristBuzz watch dimensions database.

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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

H. Moser Introduces a New Pioneer Tourbillon with a Burgundy Dial Worn & Wound
H. Moser Introduces Feb 6, 2025

H. Moser Introduces a New Pioneer Tourbillon with a Burgundy Dial

For H. Moser’s first release of 2025, they’ve added a new reference to the Pioneer collection in the still somewhat new 40mm case. I’ve been a fan of the Pioneer for what it represents in the Moser catalog for some time. Moser is a very high end indie that is responsible for a lot of truly interesting and innovative watchmaking, but the Pioneer has existed as a (somewhat) accessible access point to the brand that gives you a lot of Moser style, and, frankly, a good chunk of the watchmaking that makes the brand special. I reviewed the “Mega-Cool” Pioneer all the way back in 2021, and came away impressed with the aesthetic even if I felt like the case perhaps a tad too big. The new, smaller, 40mm case is Moser’s answer to many of their clients who were asking for this watch in a smaller size, and while there is indeed a 40mm Pioneer on the accessible side, here Moser is using the platform for a watchmaking flex. The Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is a new 40mm Pioneer running on Moser’s HMC 805 automatic caliber with a deep burgundy dial and a red gold case. Red gold and burgundy certainly feel like a natural combination, and the watch seems to exude a warmth that makes it particularly appealing in these dark winter months (although, to be fair, this watch has a place on the beach as well).  If you only know the Pioneer in its 43mm guise, you really owe it to yourself to get the 40mm version on your wrist. It wears completely differently and changes the impact of...

Omega Artfully Revives the 1950s Gentleman’s Wristwatch SJX Watches
Omega Artfully Revives Feb 6, 2025

Omega Artfully Revives the 1950s Gentleman’s Wristwatch

One year from now, the 2026 Winter Olympics will commence in Italy. To mark the milestone, Omega has created one of its most striking vintage reissues to date, the Seamaster 37 mm Milano Cortina 2026. A homage to the vintage Seamaster Olympic created for the 1956 Melbourne Games, the new edition stays true to its heritage, but isn’t a one-for-one remake. Instead it’s is a blend of elements characteristic of 1950s Omega watches, including distinctive “dog leg” lugs and hexagonal crown of the Constellation, along with a white grand feu enamel dial that’s a nod to the cream enamel dial of the Seamaster Olympic. Initial thoughts The new Seamaster revives some of the best design elements of 1950s Omega wristwatches, primarily the Constellation, while incorporating the key details of the Seamaster Olympic. The mix works surprisingly well, and results in a watch that has a pleasing vintage feel. The case is a little bigger and thicker than the original, but still sized reasonably well. While it is not an imaginative creation, the new Seamaster looks good. The visual and tactile appeal will also be enhanced by the high quality of execution typical of modern Omega watches, especially on the dial and case. The Seamaster 37 mm costs US$19,300, leaving it amongst the pricier time-only watches in the Omega catalogue and well beyond the sweet spot on the price spectrum for the brand. That said, it is decent enough value considering the case in Moonshine gold, fired enamel dia...

The Monocoque Seiko Tuna Models - A History And Overview Fratello
Seiko Tuna Models - Feb 6, 2025

The Monocoque Seiko Tuna Models - A History And Overview

The Seiko Tuna is sacred ground to geeks and a rathole to others. This article, however, is for everyone. The hope is to provide insight into the history of all monocoque Seiko Tuna models, starting with the 1975 reference 6159-7010 and finishing with the SBDX038 and SBBN047 of today. You’ve probably all heard of the […] Visit The Monocoque Seiko Tuna Models - A History And Overview to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: Watch Brands With Untapped Potential Fratello
Feb 6, 2025

Fratello Talks: Watch Brands With Untapped Potential

Welcome back to Fratello Talks. It’s time for some tough love! Today, Nacho, Lex, and Daan are talking about a handful of watch brands with untapped potential. These are big names in the watch world that they deeply respect and admire but feel are not currently delivering to the full extent of their capability. This can […] Visit Fratello Talks: Watch Brands With Untapped Potential to read the full article.

Hamilton Debuts the Retro and Affordable Chrono-Matic 50 SJX Watches
Hamilton Debuts Feb 6, 2025

Hamilton Debuts the Retro and Affordable Chrono-Matic 50

Modelled on the Chrono-Matic GMT Count-Down from the 1970s, the Chrono-Matic 50 in blue stays true to its predecessor in style. The limited edition retains the five-crown configuration and retains the bold, helmet-shaped 48 mm case, though it forgoes the GMT function. As is typical for Hamilton, the new Chrono-Matic 50 is powered by a high-spec ETA movement and priced affordably. Initial thoughts For several years now, vintage reissues been a dependable strategy for watch brands. Rather than venturing into entirely new designs with unpredictable results, companies are playing safe by relying on the established appeal of reissues. But there are a lot of reissues already on the market, with more being launched seemingly all the time. The Chrono-Matic 50 in blue exemplifies this. Having introduced a black version in 2019, Hamilton has done the same in blue. The new Chrono-Matic 50 stands out from the average reissue in two respects. One is the better-than-average movement for the price range thanks to Hamilton being a sister company of ETA, the biggest maker of mechanical movements in Switzerland. The second is the historical basis of the watch; Hamilton did actually make something like that in the past, which gives this a legitimacy that startups lack. The case is somewhat oversized for my personal preference, though it is sized similarly to the chunky vintage original.It does have a unique design and layout, and with a retail of US$2,545, the Chrono-Matic 50 is also well p...

Introducing: The Hamilton Chrono-Matic 50 Limited Edition In Blue And Orange Fratello
Breitling Heuer Dubois-Dépraz Feb 5, 2025

Introducing: The Hamilton Chrono-Matic 50 Limited Edition In Blue And Orange

In 2019, Hamilton launched a limited-edition Chrono-Matic 50 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the legendary Calibre 11. Along with Breitling, Heuer, Dubois-Dépraz, and Buren, Hamilton was one of the original partners in the development of the automatic Calibre 11 that debuted in 1969. The 2019 version of the Chrono-Matic 50 had a black dial, […] Visit Introducing: The Hamilton Chrono-Matic 50 Limited Edition In Blue And Orange to read the full article.

Seiko Introduces the Credor Locomotive GCCR997 SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Feb 5, 2025

Seiko Introduces the Credor Locomotive GCCR997

Have revived the Credor Locomotive last year with the limited edition GCCR999, Seiko has now added the Gerald Genta-designed sports watch to its regular production lineup. The Credor Locomotive GCCR997 is identical to its limited edition counterpart, save for the dial, which is now dark green with an intricate hexagon pattern. Initial thoughts Having already gotten wind of the Locomotive becoming regular production, the new GCCR997 isn’t a surprise. It is also inevitable given the good response enjoyed by the limited edition, which was well priced, especially for the case and bracelet quality. The honeycomb dial with its novel pattern is a nice touch. Seiko has wisely kept the retail price essentially unchanged over the limited edition – this is about US$500 more expensive – which means the is still good value, and also more accessible. And I’m sure this won’t be the only Locomotive in the catalogue, so expect to see more variants in the future. Hexagon themed The new Locomotive has the same titanium case and bracelet found on last year’s model. The GCCR997 retains the dimensions of the vintage original that was launched in 1978, but with an improved construction and finish. Made of Seiko’s “high-intensity” titanium, the case and bracelet are finished with a combination of brushed and polished surfaces that gleam a little more than usual because the proprietary alloy has greater hardness than the conventional titanium alloys used in watches. The original,...

Introducing: The Gérald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive With A New Dial Fratello
Gerald Genta Feb 5, 2025

Introducing: The Gérald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive With A New Dial

One of last year’s biggest surprises was the reintroduction of the Credor Locomotive. The original watch from the 1970s was one of Gérald Genta’s lesser-known creations. As soon as you see it, though, you immediately recognize Genta’s characteristic design signature. Having said that, it’s a divisive design because of its quirky presence. I also had […] Visit Introducing: The Gérald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive With A New Dial to read the full article.

Patek Philippe Silently Discontinues The Nautilus 5712/1A - What Does This Imply? Fratello
Patek Philippe Silently Discontinues Feb 5, 2025

Patek Philippe Silently Discontinues The Nautilus 5712/1A - What Does This Imply?

Watch models and variations come and go. Most go under the radar, slipping into oblivion without anyone paying them much mind. Others walk off stage to great fanfare. The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712/1A sits somewhere in the middle. Patek Philippe did not officially announce it or share anything regarding the discontinuation. Still, we feel it […] Visit Patek Philippe Silently Discontinues The Nautilus 5712/1A - What Does This Imply? to read the full article.

Owner’s Review: the Sinn EZM 7 Worn & Wound
Sinn EZM 7 Here’s Feb 4, 2025

Owner’s Review: the Sinn EZM 7

Here’s the scenario: you’re on the third floor of a burning building, kitted out in all your firefighter gear, battling the blaze and smoke as you search for survivors. As you fight your way from room to room, the wood floors are buckling beneath your boots, and desperate sirens are blaring outside. In the intense heat, you have no way of knowing how long your equipment will last. Unless that is, you’ve added a Sinn EZM “Mission Timer” 7 to your loadout.  Okay, I digress-I have never been in a burning building (knock on wood) and I hope I’ll never have to monitor the degradation of my “gear”, whatever that may mean. But I do have an EZM 7, and it has, surprisingly, come in handy in much more mundane situations than it was meant to be used in.  To start at the beginning of my journey with the EZM (acronym derived from the German Einsatzeitmesser, or “operation time meter”), you may need a brief overview of the person writing this. Most of my friends and family would admit to having asked me to fix something on their car or in their home at some point, and to say that I’m into tool-style watches would be a devastating understatement. The more information that can be gleaned from (or tortured out of) a watch, the more likely I am to wear it. The EZM 7, then, is an easy win for me, and clearly my dad thought the same when he gifted me a used model upon the completion of my Master’s degree in Creative Writing in May 2024.  Since then, the EZM 7 has ...

MKII Updates the Classic Fulcrum with a Smaller Case and Thoughtful Details Worn & Wound
Feb 4, 2025

MKII Updates the Classic Fulcrum with a Smaller Case and Thoughtful Details

Imagination is at the heart of any good spy story or thriller, and MKII seems to know that well; with their latest release, the Fulcrum 39, they’ve crafted a watch fit for a speculative undercover mission in the 1970s. A diver-style piece that favors practicality and class over more visually militarized counterparts, the Fulcrum 39 is designed to convey MKII’s “vision of the perfect tool watch”. The Fulcrum 39 is a revised and sized-down successor to MKII’s Fulcrum, originally released in 2013. Aptly named for its discreet 39.50mm case size, the Fulcrum 39 is a watch that could have been made for military and covert ops; MKII has crafted a sort of horological fiction with the watch’s design and heritage. While mainly inspired by timepieces issued to the United States Military in the Vietnam War era, the Fulcrum 39 also tags in elements of more civilian-oriented designs, hence the smaller case size and understated appearance. The idea of a watch with a grounded yet fictional background is unique and lends an air of hushed intrigue to the Fulcrum 39 that helps elevate it from just another dive watch to a very functional gear piece for a theoretical (or real) adventure.  With all these stylistic features in mind, the Fulcrum 39 is unmistakably a tool watch. It totes a 120-click unidirectional bezel, available in either 12-hour or 60-minute diver configurations, maximizing its utility as a dive watch-particularly when paired with its 200m water resistance. The b...

Introducing - The Orient Bambino Flaunts New Dial Colours and Limited Editions for its 75th Anniversary Monochrome
Citizen as incontestable powerhouses However Feb 4, 2025

Introducing - The Orient Bambino Flaunts New Dial Colours and Limited Editions for its 75th Anniversary

If you ask about affordable Japanese mechanical watches, most people will cite Seiko and Citizen as incontestable powerhouses. However, Orient, another Japanese watch brand owned by the Seiko Epson Corporation, is a force to contend with when it comes to value for money. Founded in 1950, Orient is celebrating its 75th anniversary this year with […]

Putting The Spotlight On The Best Modern Alpina Watches Fratello
Alpina Watches Alpina has been Feb 4, 2025

Putting The Spotlight On The Best Modern Alpina Watches

Alpina has been on a roll lately. The Swiss watchmaker has been busy updating its collection with some great new models. While most of you will probably know the brand’s sports pieces, we have also seen some great watches inspired by its past, which goes back more than a century. Indeed, Alpina is a brand […] Visit Putting The Spotlight On The Best Modern Alpina Watches to read the full article.

Fratello On Air: Rolex Under €8K - Our Favorites Fratello
Rolex Under €8K - Our Feb 4, 2025

Fratello On Air: Rolex Under €8K - Our Favorites

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we stick to Rolex under €8K and pick our favorites. The entire history of the brand is up for grabs as long as the price is right. Enjoy the episode, and tune in to the watch content after approximately 19 minutes. This podcast player […] Visit Fratello On Air: Rolex Under €8K - Our Favorites to read the full article.

A New Mt. Iwate Dial Arrives in the Grand Seiko SLGH027 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SLGH027 We reached Feb 3, 2025

A New Mt. Iwate Dial Arrives in the Grand Seiko SLGH027

We reached the point long ago where even the most dedicated Grand Seiko fans and collectors could be expected to keep up with the many, many different dial textures. Intricate textured dials are, at least as much as their famous Zaratsu polishing technique and fantastic family of movements, the thing that Grand Seiko has become most well known for during these last several years that have seen the brand grow at an extraordinary pace. I know for me personally, it’s all a little overwhelming, and while I love seeing all of the new textures and colors pop in watches as the collection grows, I remain biased toward one in particular that caught my eye at the beginning of my own interest in the brand. The first Grand Seiko I ever owned had a black “Mt. Iwate” textured dial, and for me it’s still the standard by which I judge all of the others against. That Mt. Iwate texture, to me, is just the right balance of eye catching and incredibly subtle – it can’t be detected at every angle, which is one of my favorite things about it. It’s also historically taken something of a backseat to the “Snowflake” and “Birch” textures, so it appeals to my natural tendency to root for the underdog.  Given my longstanding appreciation for the Mt. Iwate dial, I was happy to see news of the latest Grand Seiko release, the SLGH027, which brings a tweaked version of the Mt. Iwate texture to the Evolution 9 series of watches. The new texture, which appears to have thicker “ridg...

A Unique Military Inspired Watch For Under $300 - Prevail Onward Future Worn & Wound
Feb 3, 2025

A Unique Military Inspired Watch For Under $300 - Prevail Onward Future

Veteran-owned Prevail strives to redefine what a military-inspired watch can be. With a unique contemporary design language and capable specifications, the young brand is unafraid to chart its own path. The Tampa Bay-based brand donates a portion of its profits to the Heart and Armor Foundation, a charity supporting scientific research and community programs for veterans’ health. The Onward, Prevail’s freshman offering, is the brand’s contemporary update of the classic field watch formula. Housed in a uniquely shaped 42mm matte stainless steel case with 200m of water resistance, it takes the century-old formula and modernizes it for the 21st Century. Underneath the recessed sapphire crystal are three dial colors - standard black, compass green, and shovelhead - with a 12-3-6-9 “Explorer” version and a broad skeleton marker variant called the “Tactical.” With its fixed strap bars, the Onward Future is purpose-built to hold up to any adventure. Inside the Onward is the Ronda Calibre 513, a Swiss-made quartz caliber. It features three hands, one jewel, and hacking with an expected accuracy of -10/+20 seconds per month and a battery life of approximately 45 months. Veteran-owned Prevail strives to redefine what a military-inspired watch can be. With a unique contemporary design language and capable specifications, the young brand is unafraid to chart its own path. The Tampa Bay-based brand donates a portion of its profits to the Heart and Armor Foundation, a ...

Just Because - Patek Philippe Discontinues Multiple Models Incl. the Nautilus Moonphase 5712A, and Some Predictions for its Future Monochrome
Patek Philippe Discontinues Multiple Models Incl Feb 3, 2025

Just Because - Patek Philippe Discontinues Multiple Models Incl. the Nautilus Moonphase 5712A, and Some Predictions for its Future

Models come and go from brands’ portfolios. There’s nothing extraordinary in this, it’s just standard practice and lifecycle management. Rolex, for example, did it last year with the Yacht-Master II Regatta Chronograph (not necessarily a bad idea…) Patek Philippe is no stranger to this concept, as we’ve seen in the past – basically every year, […]

Hands-On: The Breitling Superocean Heritage B20 Automatic 42 Amsterdam Limited Edition - Celebrating 750 Years Of The City Fratello
Breitling Superocean Heritage B20 Automatic Feb 3, 2025

Hands-On: The Breitling Superocean Heritage B20 Automatic 42 Amsterdam Limited Edition - Celebrating 750 Years Of The City

What is Amsterdam famous for? Exactly - the city’s canals. Oh, sorry, were you saying something else? Well, that’s also correct, but it’s not the answer I was looking for. I understand it, though. The district you were referring to in the city center is associated with red, the color that shines brightly in the […] Visit Hands-On: The Breitling Superocean Heritage B20 Automatic 42 Amsterdam Limited Edition - Celebrating 750 Years Of The City to read the full article.

Introducing - The Hamilton Chrono-Matic 50 Auto Chrono Limited Edition, now in Blue Monochrome
Hamilton Chrono-Matic 50 Auto Chrono Feb 3, 2025

Introducing - The Hamilton Chrono-Matic 50 Auto Chrono Limited Edition, now in Blue

Hamilton’s US chapter is marked by its legendary field watches for the US Army, interpreted in the popular Khaki line, and its impressive amount of Hollywood screen debuts. On the horological front, perhaps the most exciting moment in Hamilton’s history took place in Switzerland, where it participated in the race to develop the world’s first […]

Introducing: The Grand Seiko SLGH027 “Mountainscape” Hi-Beat 65th Anniversary Limited Edition Fratello
Grand Seiko SLGH027 “Mountainscape” Hi-Beat 65th Feb 3, 2025

Introducing: The Grand Seiko SLGH027 “Mountainscape” Hi-Beat 65th Anniversary Limited Edition

Today, Grand Seiko introduces the SLGH027 “Mountainscape,” a limited-edition watch celebrating the brand’s 65th anniversary. The piece features the automatic Hi-Beat 9SA5 caliber, which debuted in 2020. As part of the Evolution 9 collection, this watch is not retro at all but a modern reference with stunning details. Grand Seiko always has a strong start […] Visit Introducing: The Grand Seiko SLGH027 “Mountainscape” Hi-Beat 65th Anniversary Limited Edition to read the full article.

Insight: The Chronograph Reset Mechanism SJX Watches
Breitling B01 movement Feb 3, 2025

Insight: The Chronograph Reset Mechanism

Continuing with our series focused on the mechanical chronograph – we already explained the vertical and horizontal chronograph clutches, along with the advantages and shortcomings of each – we now turn to another vital component but rarely discussed: the chronograph reset mechanism. While the clutch enables energy transmission between the base movement and chronograph, it plays no role in returning the chronograph indicators to a zeroed position. This is accomplished by an altogether separate mechanism that is synchronised with the clutch action but functions independently. The reset mechanism indexes all the chronograph indicators (hours, minutes, and seconds) back to the zero position, and keeping them securely in place until the chronograph is started once again. Any reset mechanism generally comprises of two main components: a heart cam and reset hammer. The two interact based on clever geometry and illustrates mathematics is often the underlying basis of watchmaking, or more specifically, movement construction. The chronograph works of a Breitling B01 movement, with the reset heart cams (12, 13, and 17) in purple. Image – Breitling patent The heart cam Named after its distinctive outline, the heart cam is a seemingly simple component that is in fact the product of some ingenious engineering. While the cam has a turning axis and is a rotational system – in other words, it revolves on a fixed axis – a clear analogy can be made with linear systems. In order to...

Photographing Giant Dunes With The IWC RAAF Pilot’s Watch Fratello
IWC RAAF Pilot’s Watch Feb 2, 2025

Photographing Giant Dunes With The IWC RAAF Pilot’s Watch

On a recent trip to a series of massive dunes on Australia’s east coast, I had to contend with what watch to take. In the end, I decided to take the IWC RAAF Pilot’s Watch due to its ceramic construction. You see, ceramic cases offer several advantages over stainless steel. One of those is the […] Visit Photographing Giant Dunes With The IWC RAAF Pilot’s Watch to read the full article.