Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5164G
It’s no “blue steel,” but the Aquanaut remains undefeated when it comes to elegant travel complications.
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Hodinkee
It’s no “blue steel,” but the Aquanaut remains undefeated when it comes to elegant travel complications.
Fratello
Belfast is not high on the list of cities we associate with watches. But the capital of Northern Ireland plays a pivotal part in the story of the young Nomadic Watches. The brand’s name relates to the city’s famous shipbuilding industry. Additionally, Nomadic’s home base is visually integrated into the design of its watches. I […] Visit Hands-On With The Nomadic Maraí 401 Crimson Dawn - A Dive Watch With Roots In The Belfastian Harbor to read the full article.
Monochrome
Manuel Emch, the head of Louis Erard, is on a mission to democratise watchmaking. By inviting watchmakers, designers and artists to collaborate on different projects and offering traditional métiers d’art dials to a broader audience at accessible prices, Louis Erard fills a big gap in the watchmaking scene. Once again, the brand’s versatile Regulator watch […]
SJX Watches
Omega just released a new take on its Speedmaster with a vintage-inspired dial for the upcoming Paris 2024 Olympics that begins 100 days from now. Available in Moonshine Gold or stainless steel, the Speedmaster Chronoscope “Paris Olympics 2024” features a silver dial with black registers, along with solid gold numerals and gold-plated hands. Initial thoughts Omega is known for the many commemorative timepieces to mark the Olympics over the years, with the most recent one being Seamaster Diver 300m Paris Olympics Edition. A variety of Omega models have received the Olympics treatment, so the appeal really depends on the specific model, rather than the commemorative aspect. The new Chronoscope certainly looks good, with the gold accents on the dial giving it a more vintage feel, particularly on the steel model. That version brings to mind mid-20th century chronographs that combine gilt hands and markers with contrasting steel cases. With only the dial being unique to this edition, it remains chunky at 43 mm. Although large on paper, it is not all that large in reality, due to the short lugs of the Speedmaster case. I would imagine it to wear reasonably well on an averaged-sized wrist, given that the 42 mm Speedmaster Moonwatch wears well across most wrist sizes. The new Chronoscope ranges from US$9,500 to US$51,400, depending on the metal and strap configuration. Although the value proposition is decent for the steel model, the Moonshine gold version is harder to justif...
Monochrome
A high-tech, rugged, all-terrain sports watch made of an innovative carbon fibre composite material, the Norqain Wild One (launched in 2022) was an important step in the development of the young, independent, family-owned watchmaking brand. Its elaborate design presents ample opportunity for personalization. Norqain now introduces a fully customizable iteration of this model, incorporating gold […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
An introduction to the Citizen Super-Titanium Small Seconds watch with its familiar "Tsuyosa" design, new dial colors, and a titanium case.
Teddy Baldassarre
There are dive watches that you wear to go diving and there are dive watches that you wear - well, maybe afterward, to the country club where you go to talk about diving. It is this latter category that we’re focusing on with this list - so-called “luxury” dive watches, timepieces that still offer all the functionality and toughness one requires of a diver (all of the watches listed come in at 200 meters or more of water resistance) but do so at a higher level of elegance than elevates them from tool watch to dress watch - i.e., precious metal or exotic-material cases, extra complications, exclusive designs, artisanal executions, or a combination of the above, all of which account for their accordingly lofty price points. Here are a dozen that qualify. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver Price: $30,500, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 14.2mm, Water Resistance: 300m, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Audemars Piguet Caliber 4308 Audemars Piguet added a purpose-built dive watch to its Royal Oak Offshore collection of boldly styled sport-luxury timepieces - which spun out of the original, classic Royal Oak series - in 2010. The Royal Oak Offshore Divers feature 42mm cases that are integrated not into metal bracelets (like those of the core Royal Oak models) but into sleek, sporty rubber straps suited for underwater submergence. The cases are water-resistant to 300 meters and the dials, with the hallmark “Mega Tapisserie” textured motif, host a pair...
Worn & Wound
It’s always worth celebrating when we see true design artistry and a successful attempt at bringing something wholly unique to the micro-independent watch community. Betina Menescal is the creative mind behind Möels + Co. At 24 years old she is a powerhouse of fresh ideas and is determined to design watches that are completely original. You won’t find a single component in one of her watches, aside from the Sellita movements and straps, in a catalog anywhere. The numerals, the hands, the case, the crystal are all entirely designed by Betina, and manufactured for her alone. The Designer To say that Betina comes from an artistic family would be an understatement. There are three opera singers, a children’s musician, and her father, who would turn out to be a great influence for Betina. He was briefly into architecture but quickly moved on to media production. Among his credits: he was a co-director for the movie Anaconda, and produced commercials for the likes of Coca-Cola, Asics, Adidas, and did World Cup commercials for Gillette. When Betina was nine years old, her father took her on a business trip to Buenos Aires. “My dad didn’t know how to talk to kids. So all he was doing was looking at the buildings and mentioning the architecture here, and the art there. Look at that little detail on the facade or the ceiling.” Betina began to notice that her father had an eye for these details, and how these small features fit into a whole. “It was always a big pr...
Worn & Wound
Close your eyes and picture a watch. It probably has three hands and a round case. Watches come in all shapes and with any number of hands, but for the most part, they stick to these two staples. In fact, these standards are so expected that we don’t even discuss them. Never have I written a review that noted a watch having a round case or the number of hands unless it was a GMT. For the average person, the visual likely stops with a round case and three hands, but your enthusiast-driven imagination probably dug deeper to include a dial. But even with all the variety and possibilities a dial can hold, we again have a few design staples that aren’t often deviated from. Indices are usually some sort of circle, triangle or square. Date windows, if they exist, are probably found at the 3:00, the 6:00, or maybe even placed at 4:30 if brands feel tempted to be more divisive than your Uncle Dan when he brings up politics at Thanksgiving dinner. I often find myself torn between loving these staples of design, while craving watches that dare deviate from them. There is a strong argument to be made not to deviate. Tried and true designs have reserved admiration in our hearts, and sometimes deviating can just look plain wrong. Shoot for the moon and you’ll land among the stars makes for a wonderful motivational poster to hang on a classroom wall. But when it comes to watches, shooting for the moon can land you with unsold inventory and shockingly harsh comments on your social m...
Deployant
Robin selects his top 3 watches from this year's Watches & Wonders. Click here to find out what are the timepieces that had made it to his list.
Monochrome
While today Citizen is mostly known for its accessible (yet compelling) watches, it should be reminded that the Japanese brand has been one of the pioneers of the use of titanium in watchmaking. In 1970, Citizen was the first company to commercialize a watch made of titanium. Still relying on this expertise, which you’d certainly […]
Hodinkee
Could Caitlin Clark be wearing this when she hers her name called with the first pick tonight? We'll have to wait and see.
Worn & Wound
Something we find ourselves saying a lot: these pictures don’t do justice to this watch. These pictures, by Kat Shoulders, are excellent, of course, but because they only capture a single moment in time, they miss an important element of drama in the dial of Grand Seiko’s new SBGC275. The new Spring Drive chronograph GMT has, at a glance, a pretty brilliant red dial. But thanks to a new process, the color changes, and I mean really changes, when it’s seen at an angle. It’s actually uncanny, and not merely the common experience we’ve all had of seeing the range in tone on a colorful dial as it’s seen in different lighting conditions. It makes a watch that would otherwise feel like “just another variant” something a little more substantial in the Grand Seiko catalog. Grand Seiko achieves the effect of a color-changing dial with something they call “Optical Multilayer Coating,” which is described by the brand as a physical vapor deposition process. This process results in Multiple layers of a nanoscale film adhering to the dial which allow for the shifts in how we perceive the color. From head on, it looks dark red. But if you start to tilt the dial a bit the tone becomes lighter, and will appear as orange as a Doxa Professional if you turn it just right. The moment where it noticeably changes is an incredibly cool thing and even harder to describe than it is to show in still images. It’s not really a gradual shift, like you’d expect. One second the ...
Monochrome
In 2022, Audemars Piguet unveiled a plethora of new Royal Oak models to commemorate the 50th anniversary of this iconic line. Among these releases stood the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm reference 26240, adorned, like other anniversary automatic editions, with a special rotor sporting a prominent 50 logo. However, by 2023, these gave way to regular models […]
Worn & Wound
When I say Jaeger LeCoultre, you say Reverso! Or Memovox! Or maybe Polaris! Or something to that effect. The point is that Jaeger LeCoultre, JLC to the cool kids, has a few iconic models immediately associated with its vaunted Maison. But the archives run deeper and into stranger horological territories. At Watches & Wonders 2024, JLC refreshed a lesser-known and appreciated line of watches epitomizing its watchmaking chops: the Duometre. First launched in 2007 with a chronograph, the Duometres presented a novel solution to an issue that concerns all watches with complications, that of the complications taking power out of the movement to function, thus decreasing the accuracy of the timekeeping and potentially power reserve. While a lesser issue in date complications, chronographs notoriously wreak havoc on a movement’s amplitude due to the power draw. But, JLC found a solution– to have separate barrels and gear trains for timekeeping and everything else, linked by the escapement. Hence, “duo.” The resulting watches and calibers are dramatic, to say the least. The movements are massive and ornate, with pronounced barrels on one side. To wind the movement, you turn the crown one way and then the other, like a ratcheting system, winding both barrels. Dial side, the duo concept is further played out with the hour and minutes displayed on a decentralized smaller dial to one side of the larger dial and the complication on the other. The seconds, however, is displayed a...
Monochrome
Modern watchmaking is a form of romantic mechanical art for the most part. It serves no real purpose any longer in terms of precision, but rather, it is something that captures the imagination and creative expression of many. And in a world where things continue to be digitalised, it’s often a welcome escape to fiddle […]
Fratello
Maybe it’s because I experienced Watches and Wonders from a distance this year, but I have the feeling there weren’t really any big showstoppers among all the novelties. However, that certainly doesn’t mean there weren’t any good releases. And who buys those showstoppers anyway? That’s why, for my list of favorites, I’ve chosen a trio […] Visit Fratello Favorites: Daan’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2024 Releases By Cartier, Hermès, And Hublot to read the full article.
Time+Tide
For those who want to just take a hot lap around the TAG Heuer Watches and Wonders 2024 novelties, Zach has got you covered.The post Zach’s quick overview of all the TAG Heuer Watches and Wonders 2024 highlights appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
This week’s episode of A Week in Watches is coming straight from Geneva! Yes, it’s episode 78, recorded at and during Watches & Wonders 2024, right on the floor of the Palexpo. Zach Weiss and Zach Kazan co-host, go over the watches and some of the wonders they experienced from brands such as Tudor, Grand Seiko, Rolex, and more. Be sure to stay tuned to the end for some outtakes! Episode 78 of A Week in Watches is brought to you by Windup Watch Fair San Francisco. In under 2 weeks, please join us for an incredible showcase of watchmaking and more at Fort Mason – Gateway Pavilion on San Francisco’s Pier 2. This year’s fair is in a new venue that boasts two expansive floors that will set the stage for over 60 presenting brands, including Marathon, Nivada Grenchen, Zodiac, and more. In addition to the main event, there will be live podcast recordings, food trucks, bars, and special giveaways. We will also be holding live panels with our lead sponsors, Oris, Fortis, Christopher Ward, Alpina, and Anordain, as well as a sponsored photo walk with Camera West and a group bike ride sponsored by The Radavist. Things kick off on Friday, May 3, and wrap up on Sunday, May 5. Hours are 12PM – 6PM on Friday and Saturday, and 12PM – 5PM on Sunday. Windup Watch Fair The post A Week in Watches Ep.78 – Watches & Wonder 2024 appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Quill & Pad
The jump hour has a long history, but first things first: it can’t technically be called a complication since the accepted definition of complication is a mechanism that provides information other than the time. However, anyone who gives a hoot will say in the same breath that there are many complications that don’t fit that definition and Joshua Munchow couldn’t agree more. But why does he love the jump hour so much?
SJX Watches
Last year, Tudor revealed an updated version of its classical diver, the Black Bay 41 with a refreshed crown, bracelet, and bezel designs. Initially presented with a rich burgundy-hued bracelet, the brand has now introduced a more monochrome aesthetic, showcasing a new black dial accentuated by silver markers. Initial thoughts This year’s latest release is interesting to say the least. It encapsulates the enduring allure of traditional dive watches, but the modern color scheme takes from the classic allure. Unlike its predecessor, the new model does away with any gilt accents – which bestows this timepiece with a more minimalist and utilitarian aesthetic. True to Tudor’s tradition, the value proposition remains exceptional. Priced at US$4,225 for the steel model with a rubber strap (slightly higher with bracelet options, whether the five-link version or the vintage-inspired riveted bracelet), it compares favourably with similar sports watches. The Black Bay’s winning formula lies in its straightforward design with classic cues, excellent craftsmanship, and accessible price, solidifying its status as a compelling diver choice. Last year’s Black Bay 41 with its burgundy red bezel and gilt accents A black and silver livery One questionable aspect of the revamped design is the similarity it bears to the modern Rolex Submariners. The clean, silvered accented black dial resembles the iconic Submariner more than ever. Save for the new uniform colour scheme, the watch ha...
Monochrome
Incarnating Vacheron Constantin’s sophisticated vision of a luxury sports watch, the Overseas has its roots in the 222, a 1977 model designed to celebrate the brand’s 222nd anniversary. Following a major overhaul in 2016, the brand released the third generation Overseas with a host of complications and a versatile interchangeable strap and bracelet system. The […]
Monochrome
Accessible luxury has always been a byword at Frederique Constant, and the brand’s aptly named Classic collection is home to a variety of classic complications in classically styled cases. One of the cornerstones in the collection, displaying a date function in a subsidiary dial, has been refreshed for 2024 with a more compact case size, […]
Worn & Wound
Here’s a thing you may or may not know about Watches & Wonders: there are very few genuine surprises once we hit the Palexpo floor. Almost every brand (Rolex, Tudor, and Patek are the big holdouts) send press releases to media weeks before the show so coverage can be prepped. By the time we walk into a meeting with virtually any brand exhibiting, we already have the key information on their new novelties and are just looking for additional context, hands-on impressions, and an opportunity to get those all important photos. But sometimes brands hold back a release or two, and this will sometimes result in the kind of extremely welcome surprise I experienced when I visited Zenith early this week. One of my favorite brands has dive watches again. We already told you about the Defy Skyline Chronograph, but in addition to that watch Zenith had an even bigger (literally and figuratively) Defy up their sleeve. The new Defy Extreme Diver represents the brand’s long awaited return to the dive watch category, and they’ve done it where you’d expect: within the highly technical and sometimes brazen Defy range. The new Extreme Diver has an imposing 42.5mm titanium case with the characteristic 12 sided bezel common to other Defys, and outside this fixed bezel we get a ceramic dive bezel. The case is rated to an extremely unnecessary 600 meters, which is the same depth as the original Defy diver, the A3648, from 1969. The dial utilizes the star pattern that has become standar...
Time+Tide
Focusing on the journey of the brand's founder, Jaeger-LeCoultre has a story to tell at Watches & Wonders 2024.The post Walk through the stunning JLC W&W; 2024 booth with CEO Catherine Rénier appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
In response to the rising trend of integrated bracelet stainless steel sports watches, Bell & Ross introduced the BR05 series in 2019. The collection ingeniously blended the iconic square-case design inspired by fighter jet instrument panels with a nod to the sports watches of the 1970s. The year 2020 witnessed an evolution in the BR05 […]
Time+Tide
Wondering what T+T's most Cartier-obsessed member picks as his best releases of the fair?The post Zach’s four favourite Cartier releases from Watches & Wonders 2024 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Tudor unveils the latest addition to its “BB58” range of smaller dive watches series, the Black Bay 58 GMT. Retaining the slim proportions and classic styling of the original model, the new BB58 seamlessly integrates a practical second time zone. The vintage-inspired design gains a burgundy and black “Coke” bezel with gilt accents that’s reminiscent of the classic GMT wristwatches – or more specifically a classic GMT – but with a thoroughly modern, high-spec movement. Initial thoughts Tudor fans have long wanted a more compact GMT, which is arguably the most practical of affordable complications. Before this launch, the dual time zone offerings in the brand’s catalogue were the chunky 41 mm Black Bay GMT and the smaller Black Bay Pro that is 39 mm but quite thick at over 14 mm high. In that context, the new Black Bay 58 GMT is an ideal size: 39 mm but substantially thinner than the Pro. While the proportions are new, the affordability is familiar. Priced at US$4,400 on a strap, and US$200 extra on a bracelet, the Black Bay 58 is likely the best value proposition for a dual time zone watch in this price segment. The only downside of the new GMT is perhaps the colour: red and black might not be for everyone. I for one hold out hope for a one in “Pan Am” colours. Vintage-inspired and travel-ready The BB58 GMT sticks to Tudor’s established formula for its dive watches. That includes “snowflake” hands, with the signature lozenge hand used for both the ...
Hodinkee
On day four, we recap the week in Geneva.
Worn & Wound
There’s really nothing like the Cartier meeting at Watches & Wonders. Along with Rolex and Patek Philippe, Cartier can be thought of as an anchor brand of the show. They have one of the largest booth spaces, with nonstop foot traffic, and a veritable army of cheery employees who are happy to show you watch, after watch, after watch in your meeting. It’s a seemingly never-ending parade of beautiful objects. To me, that’s what an event like this is all about. Why are we here if not to gawk? In terms of sheer volume, Cartier is your best bet for that. What’s wonderful about Cartier, though, is that the beautiful objects aren’t necessarily completely unobtainable, and the brand works hard to make even the most head turning pieces feel approachable (at least in the context of the show). While you’ll see your fair share of unique pieces and watches that have no listed price because if you have to ask, well, you know how it goes, there are accessible ways into the brand that give you plenty of what is essential about Cartier. My favorite example of this for 2024 is a new dial variant for the Santos, in a metallic brown with a gradient effect. It’s lovely, and pretty clearly meant to evoke something that has aged naturally over a period of many years. It’s available as both a large and medium Santos, but it’s very clear that the medium is the “correct” size for this watch. It works considerably better when it’s a little more discreet. It joins a growi...
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