Hodinkee
Happenings: Guillaume Tetu To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
The Hautlence Founder & Chairman will provide a behind-the-scenes look at building an independent brand during the renaissance of modern watchmaking.
Results for Above the Date Window
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Hodinkee
Monochrome
Introducing - In Game and On the Wrist, The New Hamilton Khaki Field “Call of Duty Black Ops 7”
Once an American brand, now owned by the Swatch Group, Hamilton is a watchmaker with more than timepieces. It has fascinating stories to tell. We can’t forget the brand’s involvement in cinema, having been featured in over 500 movies since 1932 and its appearance in Shanghai Express, and then important features such as a futuristic […]
Worn & Wound
Hamilton Introduces the Khaki Field Auto 38mm Call of Duty Special Edition
For as long as I’ve been writing about watches (and in fact much longer) Hamilton has been associated with the silver screen. They are incredibly proud of their long history of popularizing specific watches through their appearances in movies. It’s a tradition that goes back decades, to when Elvis wore a Hamilton Ventura in Blue Hawaii, and has continued through the years with ties to some of the most widely seen films of the recent past, including Oppenheimer, Dune Part II, and more. Lately, however, Hamilton has shifted their focus just slightly by fully embracing what many see as a category that is equal to film in terms of storytelling and visual impact: gaming. The new Hamilton Khaki Field Auto 38mm Call of Duty Special Edition is the brand’s third watch that is specifically tied to a videogame, and follows an ambitious project made to coincide with the latest release in the Death Stranding series. The new version of the Khaki Field seen here is, at least on the surface, a bit easier to digest than the avant-garde Boulton concept seen in Death Stranding. And that certainly makes a great deal of sense for Call of Duty, which is, as these things go, a far more grounded gaming experience. It is, notably, one of those games that has broken through to the popular culture even beyond serious gamers. It’s a title that just about everyone knows, even if they don’t know they know it, a notion that seems to bolster Hamilton’s decision to lean into the video game wor...
Monochrome
Hands-on - To the Top of Everest with the HP Hercules Hand-Wound Double Barrelled
Have you ever, like me, wondered what it would feel like to stand on the top of Mount Everest? Reaching Earth’s highest summit must be an exhilarating experience, to say the least. Although the climb to the top is heavily commercialised these days, it’s still a crazy and highly daunting adventure, and one that claims […]
Worn & Wound
From the Founders of Worn & Wound: A Call to Support RT Custer and His Family
Our friend, colleague, and founder of Vortic Watch Co, RT Custer, needs our support. After a sudden medical emergency earlier this summer, RT and his family face a long road to recovery. As a result, there is significant uncertainty around the future of Vortic Watch Co and its sister brand Colorado Watch Co, not to mention the physical, mental, and financial hardship that comes with any major medical event. We’re here to help spread the word of RT’s situation and urge the watch community to support his recovery. CLICK HERE TO DONATE TO RT’S GOFUNDME CAMPAIGN Earlier this summer, RT suffered a massive stroke while traveling for work in Detroit. Very fortunately, RT was taken within minutes to a Level 1 trauma center, where he received clot-busting medication and underwent emergency surgery to remove a clot blocking over 90% of his right cerebral artery. He spent 10 days hospitalized, then 10 days in rehabilitation relearning to walk and manage daily tasks. Doctors expect a full recovery, but neurological healing will take time-roughly 12 months before considering a return to work and 2–3 years before resuming the full demands of running a company. RT’s wife, Lindsay, has stepped in to run business operations for both companies. In addition to being a great guy, RT has been an essential part of the watch community since Vortic was founded in 2013. He’s pioneered contemporary American manufacturing and has played a key role in keeping the long history of America...
Video
Value sells. Luxury pricing doesn't - Watch market update
For inquiries and collabs: twtw.mike@gmail.com
Monochrome
Introducing - The Compact, Hand-Wound Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2075 for the 250th Anniversary
As we’ve explained already, Breguet, one of the most important brands in the industry, is celebrating this year its 250th anniversary, as its founder, the legendary Abraham-Louis Breguet, first registered his company in 1775. With this in mind, we can tell you that Breguet has already released several special edition watches, all done in its […]
Worn & Wound
Brew Introduces the Metric Manual Wind, with a Swiss Mechanical Movement
Brew’s recent history has been marked by two distinct types of watch releases. There are watches that incorporate bold design choices in established platforms, like Metric Star from last year, or our own Metric Chrono Regulator Lumint limited edition. These releases take a distinct point of view on something that is familiar to Brew fans and watch enthusiasts more generally, and keep moving the ball forward on the brand’s aesthetic. Then there are more substantial releases that feel like the brand is reaching for greater heights, toying with an incrementally higher end product. The titanium Metric Chronograph, for instance, seemed like clear upping of the ante in terms of what the Brew catalog might look like across price points, materials, and so on, as did the first mechanical Metric when it was released almost two years ago. If you’ve spent any time at all talking to Brew founder Jonathan Ferrer, you know that he has no shortage of ideas for the brand, so there’s a prevailing sense that a watch that completely changes how we think about Brew could come at any time. The new Metric Manual Wind might be the best example of that to date. It makes sense, in a lot of ways, that a watch like this would come now. This year marks Brew’s tenth anniversary, and the last decade (especially the last five years or so) have seen the brand grow at a clip rarely seen in the microbrand space. The Metric has proven to be a particularly durable platform for design innovations a...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Metric Chrono Regulator Returns With A Lumed Dial In Worn & Wound's New Collaboration With Brew Watch Co.
The retro colors takes a backseat for something more monochromatic (until you turn off the lights).
Worn & Wound
And You May Ask Yourself, “Well, how did I get here?” - Dealing With Imposter Syndrome in the Watch Community
I attended my first watch meetup with a generic quartz dress watch on my wrist and two budget mechanical watches stuffed into my pockets. In my right pocket was a one hand Luch, a watch that was as quirky as it was inexpensive (I think I paid $50 on Amazon, a lot for me at the time), thanks to a single hand that worked its way around a 12 hour dial about twice per day. I say “about” because it wasn’t very accurate, but I didn’t care. I’d spent hours researching my first mechanical watch before spending my hard earned cash, and was genuinely proud to own it. My left pocket housed a broken HMT Pilot, a watch that unlike the Luch that had been purchased out of pure enthusiasm, I knew little about. Of course, it wasn’t broken when I’d bought it, and the debate of whether or not it even belonged in my pocket at all was one that had caused me considerable stress in the hours leading up to the meetup. As a pandemic era watch enthusiast, I cut my horological teeth behind the safety of my phone screen. Like bowling with bumpers, the internet spoon fed me confidence in a secure environment, letting me compose painstakingly researched opinions into carefully curated comments before posting anonymously on a forum. And, if that comment received criticism, this informative and safe environment allowed me to make it disappear forever with a single click. But as the pandemic fizzled out and restrictions were lifted, the watch community I’d become a part of through various ...
Worn & Wound
Oak & Oscar and Eric Wind Collaborate on a Limited and Vintage Inspired Edition of the Atwood Chronograph
One of the things that all great micro and independent watch brands have in common is that they lean into exactly who they are. The brands that attempt to cater to changing tastes and trends never seem to last, or if they do they seem to just kind of languish and not really grow or do anything all that noteworthy. Another way to say this is that brands who are authentically themselves, and a reflection of the point of view of those in charge, and their clients, are almost always going to be the most interesting. Oak & Oscar, I think, neatly falls into that category. Whether the designs are your cup of tea or not, there’s no denying that the brand, their aesthetic, and the choices they make line up precisely with the ideas that founder Chase Fancher and his colleagues are trying to bring to the larger watch community. That was apparent in their recent Humboldt GMT SAR limited edition, which helped to underline the brand’s general love of the outdoors, and it’s built into their latest release, a limited edition version of the Atwood chronograph, in an entirely different way. The new version of the Atwood is a collaboration with Wind Vintage, the well known vintage retailer founded by Eric Wind in 2017. The Atwood Wind Vintage Edition is simply a product of two friends coming together to work on a cool product, which Oak & Oscar describes as a tenet of what they’re all about. Eric and Chase go way back, having met in New York just after the release of the Burnham, O...
Video
Tissot’s Fan-Favorite in a Smaller Case Size: Tissot Gentleman 38mm Review
On this channel, we review watches that are available for purchase on TeddyBaldassarre.com
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The New UR-150 'Scorpion' Is Exactly What You Want From Urwerk
"I couldn't help it," says the Scorpion. "It's my nature."
Monochrome
Introducing - The Habring² Josef Regulator With Dead-Beat Seconds
Twenty years ago, Austrian couple Maria and Richard Habring (the latter being famous already for his previous work at IWC, including developing the 7750-based Doppel Chronograph, among other clever mechanisms) started their own journey, an independent watchmaking brand known as Habring². Now one of the most respected indie watchmakers in their segment, one of the […]
Monochrome
First Look - The Updated IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide, the First IWC with a Silicon Hairspring
This year, IWC brings the emblematic Portugieser collection under the spotlight, introducing several stunning new additions to the collection, including the impressive Eternal Calendar and updates to several iconic models, such as the chronograph and the 7-day Automatic. On the occasion of Watches and Wonders Shanghai, the brand unveils a new version of its Portugieser […]
Monochrome
The Evergreens - The History of the Zenith El Primero, The Glorious High-Frequency Automatic Chronograph That Almost Died
In our series on historically significant calibres, the best way to honour the El Primero calibre is by highlighting its qualities, functional characteristics, and pivotal role in shaping the watchmaking industry. While the tale of its salvation in 1976, along with that of Zenith as a company, by a courageous man defying the ill will […]
Monochrome
The Evergreens - The History of the ETA Peseux 7001, The Hand-Wound Classic That Stood the Test of Time
Self-winding calibres are undeniably an advancement, especially those boasting extended autonomy. Yet, there is a timeless ritual, almost archaic, the deliberate act of winding a watch by thumb and forefinger, each click of the ratchet wheel a symphony for the discerning ear. This tactile dance, this connection to the mechanics, is a pleasure some aficionados […]
Video
5 Luxury Watches That NO ONE Buys (and Why)
In today’s video, we’re breaking down five watches that absolutely nobody buys— even though some of them should be getting more attention. From luxury brands like Rolex to lesser loved brands such as Parmigiani...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Byrne Gyro Dial Meca 36mm, a Smaller, Hand-Wound Model with the Hallmark Complication
Indie watch brand Byrne may have only emerged on the scene in 2022, but its innovative concept of “one watch, four faces” creates an impression of a more extended presence, almost as if there are four times as many references in its collection. The brand’s distinctive Gyro Dial complication is the key here, allowing the […]
Deployant
Today’s office: At The Hour Glass and the launch of the new MB&F; HM8 Mk2 Blue
We attended the MB&F; HM8 Mk2 Blue launch event at the MB&F; Lab by The Hour Glass, and bring you this event report and our hands-on with the new watch.
Worn & Wound
Time Through the Ages, Part 1: the English Watch Making Heyday - Where Did It All Start?
Editor’s Note: Time Through the Ages is a four part series written by Andrew Canter, member of the British Horological Institute, Alliance of British Watch & Clock Makers, and the British Watch & Clock Makers Guild. In this first installment, Andrew provides an overview of the major players and accomplishments from the early days of British watch and clock making. For more from Andrew, check out his work at Mr. WatchMaster. Many people believe that the origin of modern-day watchmaking came from the Swiss, but it all started in England back in the early 17th century. The 1620s saw a desire by clock and watch makers to establish a dedicated company as a representative body, but this was met with opposition from the other livery companies – guilds or associations in the City of London to regulate and protect the interest of their members – in particular the Blacksmiths. The Worshipful Company of Clockmakers eventually received its Royal Charter on 22nd August 1631. The Charter created a corporate body for all the Clock and Watch makers in the City of London and within a radius of ten miles around, with regulatory powers covering England and Wales. It specified that the new Fellowship should be governed by a Master, three Wardens and ten or more Assistants who would form a Court. The first Master was David Ramsay, former Chief Clockmaker to King James I. Left to right: engraved dial plate with indications for time of day, annual calendar, sign of the zodiac, day of the...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The New Hand-Wound IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Day & Night, A Fun Story Of How One Small Idea Can Turn Into Something Much Bigger
One of IWC's most interesting watches of 2024 was a watch that stood alone among the collection.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Tadao Ando x Bulgari Serpenti: An Ode To The Seasons
The world-renowned Japanese architect asks if you're summer, fall, winter or spring.
Quill & Pad
Watches Powered by Body Heat: Did the Bulova Thermatron Foretell a Matrix PowerWatch Heat-Driven Future?
As we all know quartz became a Greek tragedy, but fortunately one with an eventual happy end for most brands. Well, happy for the Swiss brands but not so much for the American brands, in particular Bulova. Martin Green thinks heat may have played a role here and may well again with the technology showcased by the new Matrix PowerWatch.
Quill & Pad
Rick Hale: Wooden Clocks Designed and Built as if by John Harrison, Except Today and in the USA (Beautiful Photos + Videos)
Clockmakers rarely get the credit they deserve, and Elizabeth Doerr believes that Rick Hale is deserving of at least a few minutes of your attention because this young autodidact clockmaker is doing something unique: handmaking self-designed clocks out of wood according to some of John Harrison’s principles.
SJX Watches
Insight: Perfecting the Perpetual from Quartz Crisis till Today
As we approach the leap day of February 29, the unofficial day of commemoration for perpetual calendar owners, it’s worth considering the technical advances in perpetual calendar movements of the past 20 years. The perpetual calendar is, and has always been, a staple of haute horlogerie. But for most of its history, the technology remained largely stagnant. It wasn’t until the beginning of the modern era, in the 1980s when Swiss watchmaking was regrouping after the Quartz Crisis, that a new generation of watchmakers revisited this complication in earnest. In particular, they sought to address fundamental weaknesses in the way traditional perpetual calendar designs switch from one date to the next. The quintessential perpetual calendar layout, here in the first serially-produced perpetual calendar wristwatch with a leap year indicator, the Audemars Piguet ref. 5516, which was produced in the late 1950s One of the more recent – and most notable – efforts at reimagining the complication came from Stephen McDonnell, who developed the MB&F; Legacy Machine Perpetual. According to Mr McDonnell, the traditional approach to the perpetual calendar was a flawed premise. “For decades in the Swiss watch industry, and even until the present day, it has been accepted and expected that [perpetual calendar] watches would often be damaged by owners while trying to correct them,” explains Mr McDonnell, “This was seen simply as an unavoidable factor of [perpetual calendar] owner...
Hodinkee
In-Depth: Every Watch, Clock, And Timer That Went To The Moon
Ahead of the 50th anniversary of Apollo 11's historic mission, we take a closer look at the history of lunar timing.
Hodinkee
Breaking News: Omega Resumes Production Of The Caliber 321, The Speedmaster Movement That Went To The Moon
After a decades-long hiatus, one of the most renowned movements of all time is coming back.
Quill & Pad
Watch Market Predictions 2024: Is the Tide Turning?
Many of the trends that we have experienced happening slowly over the last few years have continued. These include more dial colors, case materials, and a shift to smaller case sizes. However, it feels we have also hit a turning point where some changes are coming about.
Quill & Pad
So You Want to Invest in the Watch Industry . . .
Warren Buffett’s oft-repeated mantra is “I only invest in what I understand”. If you are a watch collector or simply interested in watches (and if you are reading this, you probably are), you probably have a better understanding of the historical and technical aspects of watchmaking than anyone – even Warren Buffett.