1,589 articles · 828 videos found · page 56 of 81
Quill & Pad
When Piaget introduced the manual wind Caliber 9P at the 1957 Basel Fair, at only 2 mm in height, it was considered an impossibility. Three years later, in 1960, Piaget stunned the watch world once again with Caliber 12P, an automatic movement that broke world records for its svelteness. What does that have to do with a vintage watch Martin Green saw? Find out here.
SJX Watches
One of the “It” watches of the 2000s was the Patek Philippe Twenty~4, which was launched in 1999 as an elegant yet everyday watch for women in steel with a bracelet and quartz movement, making it affordable and chic. Having unveiled the round Twenty-4 automatic two years now, Patek Philippe has rebooted the original Twenty-4 “Manchette”, once again in steel with new dials in blue and grey. And like the original, it has a steel bracelet, hence the nickname – manchette being French for “cuff”. Initial thoughts While the round, automatic Twenty-4 is larger and perhaps more casual, the original rectangular model is more compact, giving it a slightly more formal style – but the new dial design avoids looking old fashioned. And the rectangular Twenty-4 has been around long enough it is easily recognisable, despite the relatively simple styling, making it the signature Patek Philippe watch for ladies. The central element of the new Twenty-4 is the facelifted dial. Doing away with the diamond indices and Roman numerals of the original, the new dial is cleaner and more modern, while also having luminous hands and hour markers. The upside of a quartz watch is that it more easily accessible than a mechanical watch, in both pricing and functionality, avoiding winding and setting the time. And this particular model does not have a second hand, so its identity is hidden. Priced at about US$14,700, the Twenty-4 is very expensive for a quartz watch with a steel case. An...
Time+Tide
An automatic dive watch that brings value to both your wrist and environmental efforts, the Seiko Prospex Save the Ocean SRPE33K is the latest special edition made in honour of protecting the ocean. Across the board, Seiko is known for providing high horological value at lower price points than its Swiss peers and the “Save … ContinuedThe post The new Seiko Prospex “Save the Ocean” SRPE33K has a scratched blue ocean dial you have to see to believe… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Urwerk has just revealed the next generation of its flagship wristwatch – the UR-220 “Falcon Project”. Retaining the same case shape and signature satellite-cube hour display as its predecessor, the UR-210, the “Falcon Project” is nonetheless an entirely different watch. The UR-220 is powered by a newly-developed movement that hand-wound, instead of automatic as before, and in a first for the brand, the case is made of carbon composite, matched with a rubber-carbon composite strap. Initial thoughts A landmark in avant-garde independent watchmaking for its three-dimensional wandering hours, the UR-201 evolved into the UR-203 and then the UR-210. The new UR-220 is an incremental improvement in the same vein, though a substantial one. I had hoped for a brand-new time display to succeed the satellite-cube indicator, but that is perhaps something for the distant future. Even though the UR-220 retains the same general aesthetic on the front, it is fundamentally different mechanically. The movement has been substantially reengineered – the base remains the Zenith Elite calibre in the UR-210 but now minus automatic mechanism – and now incorporates new functions like the cylindrical service indicator. It also sees the addition of a split power-reserve display, which Urwerk says was a complex mechanism requiring 83 parts. While that may be true, it feels unnecessary, except to give the face a symmetrical layout. But one of the most significant changes is the case mate...
Revolution
Hublot re-introduces the original 1980 Hublot watch for the 21st century, in yellow gold, titanium and black ceramic (45mm) powered by an automatic movement.
Video
Time+Tide
Frederique Constant has updated and overhauled their Highlife line, which was originally created more than 20 years ago to bring a high-value horological offering to the consumer. Standard production models of this new lineup were recently launched in steel, gold-plated, and two-tone steel and gold-plated models - in both time and date only (Automatic COSC) and … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Frederique Constant Highlife RedBar Limited Editions sure are nice, and if you ain’t RedBar you can’t buy ’em (for now) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Tennis players are well known for being ambassadors of various watch brands. Serena Williams has recently been spotted playing with her Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph during matches, Roger Federer with his Rolex Sky-Dweller (when his match is over), as well as Rafael Nadal with his RM 27-03 Manual Winding Tourbillon Rafael Nadal Edition. Gael … ContinuedThe post Gael Monfils just smashed the sh*t out of a $500k USD Greubel Forsey GMT Sport appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Panerai’s iconic watch, the Luminor Marina, is now presented in a Carbotech case with the P.9010 Manufacture automatic mechanical movement.
Deployant
Parmigiani Fleurier refreshes its Tonda collection to create a sportier, everyday watch, and announces two new variants. An automatic time only watch called the Tonda GT and a chronograph known as the Tondagraph GT. Press Release Tonda GT Line – design cues Parmigiani Fleurier is proud to announce the new Tonda GT. The Maison’s dressRead More
Hodinkee
A platinum case and a stone dial set a new auction record for automatic Daytonas.
Video
Time+Tide
Much like a car manufacturer does when it designs a brand new engine, TAG Heuer are making sure that their flagship self-winding chronograph movement, the Calibre Heuer 02, finds its way into every chrono they’ve released this year. And just days after letting us know that their three in-demand limited edition chronographs equipped with the … ContinuedThe post The boldly modern new TAG Heuer Carrera Chrono Sport is here to save those tiring of heritage remakes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Romain Gauthier’s latest watch is a skeletonised version of its Insight time-only automatic first introduced three years ago. The Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette retains the same style as the brand’s other watches, but with more elaborate finishing thanks to the open-worked movement. Initial thoughts Romain Gauthier excels in finishing and the new watch undoubtedly has even more of the brand’s top-quality work since there are more surfaces to decorate. The skeletonisation also goes well with the movement, accentuating the long curves and sharp points that are typical of Romain Gauthier style. Importantly, it’s not just a visual upgrade, but also a tangible one – instead of the usual brass, the bridges and base plate of the skeletonised movement are made of titanium. But the titanium parts are finished to the same degree as a standard brass movement, which is quite a feat. And the basic Insight is already a well-conceived watch in the first place. It avoids some of the impractical features, like button winding and back winding, that Romain Gauthier installed on earlier models just to be different. That said, the skeleton version also suffers from one shortcoming of the standard model, which is the thick, 12.9 mm case. Nonetheless, the Insight skeleton is largely an enhanced version of an already-excellent watch. The Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette with a carbon-composite case The only downside is the price – which is no doubt justifiable. The skeleton in an 18k gold...
Deployant
Grand Seiko released a collection of blue dial models for its 60th Anniversary. It comprises a 44GS hi-beat automatic, ladies watches and 2 Quartz models. Grand Seiko SBGP015 60th Anniversary Quartz Case and Dial The stainless steel Grand Seiko SBGP015 measures 40 mm in diameter and 12.4 mm in thickness. An attractive deep blue ceramicRead More
Hodinkee
The independent watchmaker's in-house automatic movement, now in skeletonized titanium.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Multifort came out in the 1930s and was Mido’s first automatic, anti-magnetic, shock-resistant, and water-resistant watch. These attributes made it the best selling Mido for many years. Today’s Multifort Collection still builds on these principles.
Video
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer’s first collaboration with streetwear guru Hiroshi Fujiwara of Fragment Design was the Fragment Design Carrera Heuer 02 of 2018. The vintage-inspired watch went down well and sold out quickly. Now the second collaboration has just been unveiled. Once again limited to 500 watches and powered by the same Heuer 02 movement, the TAG Heuer x Fragment Design Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic Chronograph is modelled on the Autavia models of the 1960s and 1970s, but again given a minimalist makeover by Mr Fujiwara, who happens to be a vintage watch aficionado himself. Initial thoughts As a watch collector, Mr Fujiwara no doubt understood the cushion-shaped Autavia case, sometimes known as the “C-case”, is an instantly recognisable Heuer that has presence, making it a good candidate for a collaboration. However, unlike earlier Fragment Design watch that looked almost like a real vintage watch, the latest edition looks far more contemporary, thanks to the high-contrast colours. The use of red is restrained, especially with the tiny hour markers, just enough to give the watch the right amount of auto-racing flair. While I am generally not a fan of a date window at six o’clock, it is nicely done here. The date disc is black to match with the dial, allowing the date display to blend into the dial. And the Fragment Design double lightning bolt logo at 12 o’clock serves as a visual counterweight to the date. The case has been upsized to 44 mm from the 42 mm of the o...
Hodinkee
A classic design reimagined as a modern automatic chronograph.
SJX Watches
A staple of Blancpain line-up since the brand was reestablished in the early 1980s, the extra-slim Villeret wristwatch is stripped to the bare essentials but classically-styled, and it’s now available in stainless steel, and also red gold. Understated and thin, the Villeret Ultraplate 6224 is an automatic three-hander with a date display, and just over 8 mm thick, hence the name – ultra plate translates as “ultra flat”. Initial thoughts Reminiscent of classic dress watches like the Patek Philippe Calatrava and the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin, the Villeret Ultraplate is a simple design that’s easy to replicate, which is why similar styles can be found in cheap as well as expensive watches. What differentiates such watches is the quality of execution, particularly in the details. The dial of the Villeret Ultraplate is unadorned, and almost plain, but the Roman numerals are solid gold appliqués affixed to the dial by hand, adding much-needed height and texture to an otherwise flat dial. The slender, open-worked leaf hands also complement the simplicity of the design. Such hands are not overly common, making them appealing. And then there’s the date. While it adds extra utility that is appreciated by some, I am not a fan. The date hampers the purity and symmetry of the dial. With a retail price of a bit over US$8,000 in steel, the Villeret Ultraplate is competitively priced for a dress watch powered by a high-end, automatic movement. Extra-thin The case is ...
Time+Tide
The Seiko Presage collection has long been a popular part of the brand’s lineup thanks to the well-tuned value proposition, and the amount of watch you get for your money. The Seiko SPB161 is another fine example. Featuring a crisp enamel dial and powered by the automatic Seiko caliber 6R27, you are once again gaining … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko SPB161, an entirely new Presage dial design inspired by a clock from the ’70s appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Released in 2018, the Seiko Prospex Street Series is essentially a modern twist on the iconic Seiko “Tuna” dive watch, retaining the signature case design of the “Tuna”, but with the addition of more colours as well as affordable pricing. With colours inspired by an African safari, the new Prospex Street Series “Urban Safari” is a four-strong collection made up of two basic models, each inspired by famous historical models with nicknames – the automatic “Tuna” and analogue-digital “Arnie” . Initial thoughts Strong, monochromatic colours give the watches an eye-catching and sporty look. Add to that the matching silicone straps and the result is something that goes well with streetwear, fulfilling the purpose of the collection. The khaki versions are very much safari in theme, but the others are more reminiscent of the concrete jungle. But regardless of model, the fundamentals of the watch are very much Seiko’s strength – casual, sporty design and very accessible pricing. “Tuna” and “Arnie” Historically a feature found on Seiko’s top-of-the-line dive watches, the shrouded case features prominently in Seiko’s current line-up collection, with the most recent addition being the historical remake of the ref. 6159-7010 of 1975 that’s part of the Diver’s Watch 55th Anniversary Trilogy. The “Tuna” inspiration of the Urban Safari is immediately evident from the protective shroud around the case, giving the watch a resemblance to a t...
Video
Revolution
In episode three of Ross Povey’s Zoom video interview series, “Desert Island Dials, where we ask some of our friends from the community what watch they would bring along with them, if they were on a desert island, we have our latest US editor (@steviewatches) speaking with us today. He tells us about his Gerald Genta Automatic Jump Hour Retrograde Mickey Mouse watch and other unexpected pieces in his collection.
SJX Watches
The new quartet of Royal Oak models marks a first for Audemars Piguet – the Royal Oak Selfwinding 34 mm combines a 34 mm case with an automatic calibre supplied by movement specialist Vaucher. An addition to the line that is not meant to replace any existing model, the new 34 mm watch is now the smallest mechanical Royal Oak for ladies, with the smallest, 33 mm model being quartz, and the next-largest automatic having a 37 mm case. Initial thoughts The new watch fills a gap in the diverse Royal Oak line-up – a watch compact enough for ladies but with a mechanical movement. While the new 34 mm model is not explicitly described as a women’s watch, it is in all but name, as Audemars Piguet already has a 37 mm model as the medium-sized men’s Royal Oak. That said, the proportions of the 34 mm case remind me of the Royal Oak ref. 4100 of the 1970s and 1980s, which was then a large-sized men’s watch and 36 mm in diameter, not too much larger than the new model. By that benchmark, the new 34 mm model should not be a ladies’ watch per se, and could appeal to men who prefer a smaller case size. But for the broader market, it is a ladies’ watch, and I can see its appeal. Importantly, it has a mechanical movement – long absent for the ladies’ Royal Oak – and the versions with the diamond-set bezels offer a bit of bling to go along with the iconic design. So it should attract a new female customer who has always wanted a Royal Oak, but was savvy enough to wait fo...
Revolution
The new sizing on the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak fits slim wrists well and comes with a self-winding movement for the first time.
SJX Watches
The quintessential Junghans is arguably any Max Bill wristwatch, which are all slightly different but share an instantly recognisable style that’s modern, mid-20th century, and still appealing five decades on. The German watchmaker now offers the Max Bill designs in a variety of watches from quartz to automatic chronograph, and the new Max Bill Mega Solar is the most extreme in its design and technological disparity – high-tech dressed in retro style, which makes for a pretty cool watch. Initial thoughts Junghans has solid timekeeping tech in its Mega radio-control watches, but for the most part they are unattractive, at least for someone who likes mechanical watches. Many look like gadgets trying to be an analogue wristwatch. As a result, the Max Bill Mega Solar is a blessing. A Swiss architect and designer whose style was spare and Bauhaus-inspired, Bill designed a series of clocks for Junghans in the late 1950s, followed by wristwatches in 1961. Today’s Max Bill watches are essentially identical to the originals of the 1960s. And now the delightfully concise styling has been combined with a solar-powered, radio-controlled movement. For someone who likes gadgets – and also values good design – this is hard to beat. Radio-control, now worldwide The Max Bill Mega Solar is an upgrade over the earlier Max Bill Mega, which has a quartz movement in a steel case. The new Max Bill Mega Solar has a titanium case, and is solar-powered. It’ll run for up to three ye...
Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin launches two new brown-toned FiftySix models – Self-Winding and Complete Calendar – in 5N red gold cases. Elizabeth Doerr likes their retro vibe very much. What do you think?
Video
Question, suggestion, or just want to say hi? Drop a note.