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Quill & Pad
While it was the UR-103 that first brought Urwerk attention from serious watch aficionados, it was the Harry Winston Opus V that really launched the boutique independent brand to the world. Ian Skellern takes a trip down memory lane with a deep dive into the history of Urwerk, the story of the Opus V, and a review of the UR-103.03.
Time+Tide
Zenith threw a knockout punch only a few weeks ago with the new Chronomaster Sport, and our enthusiasm is quite apparent when reading Andrew McUtchen’s story here. It’s clear that CEO Julien Tornare and his team are on a roll and determined to continue their momentum. The new Zenith DEFY Extreme range enters the sports … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Zenith DEFY Extreme delivers three titanium-armoured sports watch contenders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Met with critical and commercial acclaim at its launch in 2018, the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight hit the sweet spot with enthusiasts who had been clamouring for a Black Bay in a trimmer and smaller case. At Watches & Wonders 2021, Tudor releases two variants of the model that are perhaps its most unusual dive watches ever: the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 in sterling silver, and the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K in solid yellow gold. Initial Thoughts Though a precious-metal case for a “tool” watch seems incongruent, it’s a familiar combination for high-end sports watches. But Tudor has done it differently, with the evocative 925 silver case a perfect match for the Fifty-Eight, which is at heart a vintage remake. The look of the Fifty-Eight 925 is pure understatement – a low-key yet striking watch that will be recognised only by those in the know. Thankfully, Tudor resisted using faux-aged Super-Luminova on the hour markers and Snowflake hands, a decision that preserves the watch’s clean look. The Fifty-Eight 925 in sterling silver And the look is clean. The bezel and dial are in taupe – a restrained grey-brown – a versatile colour that is studiedly neutral. Despite the inconspicuous colour – and specifically because of it – the watch is actually quite noticeable on the wrist. It is vaguely vintage in style, which goes with the soft, silvery colour of the case. Given both the colour and smaller case size, the Fifty-Eight 925 is perhaps the most gender neutr...
Revolution
Rolex celebrates one of its most historically significant lines, the mighty Explorer, as its flagship launch of 2021. Both the Explorer and Explorer 2 have been revisited this year and fans of the venerable tool watches won’t be disappointed.
Revolution
Patek Philippe’s outgoing steel Nautilus 5711 is given one last hurrah with an olive green dial for its end of series edition, the reference 5711/1A-014
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Time+Tide
Many watch enthusiasts have become caught up with the Patek Phillipe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The aforementioned brands and references have reigned supreme in the integrated stainless-steel category for decades, but the challenge of sourcing one at retail has led many to finally give due credit to the equally fascinating Vacheron Constantin Overseas. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The 2021 Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Breitling’s opening salvo for the year is a trio of chronographs at Watches & Wonders 2021. The first is the Premier Heritage Chronograph, a straightforward, two-register chronograph, and another is the Premier Heritage Datora, an old-school combination of a chronograph with triple calendar. (The flagship model is the Premier Heritage Duograph split-seconds chronograph, which we cover in another story.) The new Premier Heritage collection is modelled on its namesake line from the 1940s, continuing the brand’s recent efforts of revisiting its past catalogue and re-introducing notable references, but with a couple of modern twists, like the mint-green dial for the Premier chronograph. The Premier Heritage Chronograph in steel Initial thoughts I’m a big fan of the new releases. While the Premier Heritage Chronograph may not be the most innovative, it’s an improvement over the previous generation Premier chronograph. For one, the case size has been reduced to 40 mm from 42 mm, giving the new watch proportions more akin to its vintage inspiration. The dial, now sans date window, is cleaner too. And its manual-winding movement should please traditionalists, who can also admire the movement through a sapphire case back without a rotor to obscure the view. That being said, the mint-green dial will likely divide opinions. It’s a bold look, but I can’t help but wonder if keeping to a safer colour would have been the wiser choice given the retro design. The Datora in ...
Revolution
Stephen McDonnell shares his story of unusual beginnings as an Oxford student of theology into the world of watchmaking, developing a passion that would lead him through the doors of MB&F;, where he would take on a more-than-a-century-old dilemma and come out triumphant.
Revolution
Whilst many brands shout from the rooftops about their ceramic innovations, Rado has been quietly going about its ceramic business since the launch of its Integral in 1986, with its scratch-resistant high-tech ceramic bracelet. This year, Rado has taken its ceramic technology and created a 43mm high-tech ceramic cased Captain Cook in four versions.
Time+Tide
Ever since our story on the inner workings of COSC here, via an in-depth article by The Naked Watchmaker, our thirst for horological knowledge remain. More specifically, what it takes to make a movement a COSC-certified Chronometer? And what is the intrinsic value of the certification? We caught up with Peter Speake the co-founder of … ContinuedThe post The Naked Watchmaker explains what it takes to make a movement a COSC-certified Chronometer? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Revolution
Max Büsser tells us about the LMX, created to mark the MB&F; Legacy Machine family of watches’ 10th anniversary, the idea behind which, in his words, was to, “basically take the original LM1, which is the beginning of the story and put it on steroids.”
SJX Watches
With no physical launch event this year, Omega unveiled its new watches in a prerecorded video that concluded with a cameo by its brand ambassador George Clooney. The line up was compact, indicating there will be more new models later in the year. There was only a single Seamaster Diver amongst the new offerings, and it was the Seamaster Diver 300M Black Black. Initial thoughts Reminiscent of the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon, Seamaster Black Black is typical of Omega in its quality and technology. It’s almost entirely ceramic on the outside, made up of components sintered, sculptured, and sanded with precision. And the Co-Axial Master Chronometer movement within boasts all of the brand’s technical innovations. For a bit under US$9,000, it is a fair deal for the quality and materials. But the all-black look is dated. The pioneer of the look was the Big Bang All Black of 2006, one of Jean-Claude Biver’s opening acts at Hublot. Its success created a wave of all-black watches that lasted for about a decade. And the novelty of the coloured ceramic will be quickly lost if additional variants in other colours of ceramic are introduced, as happened with the Dark Side of the Moon. Black ceramic The dial, bezel, case middle, and case back of the new Seamaster are all black ceramic, specifically zirconium dioxide, or ZrO2. The dial is etched with laser, creating an alternating polished and matte finish, with the polished elements standing out in slight relief. And to prese...
Quill & Pad
Cohiba has that mythical aura about it, but is that always a good thing? For many, Cohiba Robustos are the ultimate robusto and among the very best from the Cohiba stable. As with every cigar, this is not necessarily a unanimous opinion, but they have been described as the benchmark against which all other cigars must be judged. Ken Gargett enlists some unexpected help in Cuba to track down a box of the best and shares the story and how they taste here.
Time+Tide
When Seiko launched their new, vintage-inspired sub range of the Alpinist, we shared the three standard models in our story here, but we’ve kept the star under wraps. Here’s the fourth smaller sibling, the limited edition SJE085 Alpinist 1959 recreation, vintage purity on a surprising bund strap. While it might look like mere tweaks to … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The first Seiko we’ve seen on a bund strap – the Limited Edition SJE085 Alpinist is a killer version of their first sports watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Commemorative limited edition writing instruments can sometimes be overdone in Nancy Olson's opinion, with well-meaning designers aiming to include just about every known detail referencing the person, place, or event celebrated. Montblanc's Tribute to the Great Wall of China High Artistry pens are simply about the story: the ancient art of calligraphy, the Ming Dynasty, and the legendary Silk Road.
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Time+Tide
In 2020, TAG Heuer doubled down in their efforts to dominate the luxury smart watch market with the launch of the third generation of their Connected watch. In addition to their new range of base models, TAG Heuer also launched a special Golf Edition watch, as well as a host of new coloured watches and straps. This … ContinuedThe post Want to be fitter, healthier and better at golf? The new TAG Heuer Connected watch has your back appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Yesterday, Jeff Stein, the ever-polite world authority on Heuer watches reached out to us to ask if he could use some of our photos in a story he just published, about the TAG Heuer Carrera ‘Dato 45’ HODINKEE Limited Edition. In the email chain that followed, we discussed the edition and we both … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Jeff Stein from world Heuer authority onthedash.com goes in-depth on the new TAG Heuer Carrera ‘Dato 45’ HODINKEE Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Swatch announces the launch of special edition designs with The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) as part of its Museum Journey series.
Time+Tide
The word “concept” is something that is often associated with the world’s most enthralling works of art. A concept album can tell a very deliberate story, or explore a particular theme or idea in wondrous detail. A concept car is usually shown to represent the pinnacle of a designer’s imagination that’s invariably watered down should … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: Rebellion meets technology in the history of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
We can all get caught up in the latest news about Nautilus or the next unobtainable Rolex. But for the majority of watch buyers, the most important timepieces are those that are accessibly priced and offer a ton of value. One brand that constantly delivers in this regard is Longines, a manufacture of longstanding heritage … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines Silver Arrow is the watch that Don Draper would wear to the race track appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
Editor’s note: We thought that as a reader service, for the inevitable questions that will come, that we’d ask about current availability of the Zenith Chronomaster Sport before publishing this story. The answer from Zenith Australia is that if you’re looking to order the watch today, you’re looking at a four to five month wait. … ContinuedThe post A month on the wrist with the Zenith Chronomaster Sport, the most hyped watch of 2021 so far appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Forget Swiss neutrality, Moser are not a brand afraid to court controversy. This was made abundantly clear in January 2016, when they revealed a new watch in response to the launch of the Apple Watch from the previous year. The Moser Swiss Alp Watch was born as a satirical take on the watch industry’s mad … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: If you hate smartwatches, you’ll love the Moser Swiss Alp Watch Final Upgrade appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Blown away by the first picture in the press release. Where to start? I’ll be honest with you, while we want to share the news from the LVMH Watch Week as soon as it comes out, it does create the luxury of frustration, very apparent in this story on the Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Magic … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Magic Gold weaves a golden web to trap you in a world of micro-mechanical wonder appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Revolution traces the story of URWERK and the new UR-220 models, which mark the brand’s turn towards slimmer watch profiles and lightweight materials.
Quill & Pad
At the end of 2020, Elizabeth Doerr posted a typical end-of-the-year 'In Memoriam' story honoring the departed. A reader left a comment on that story that Daniel Nebel, the independent autodidact maker behind Nord Zeitmaschine, had also passed away in 2020. Having found confirmation, here is her small tribute to an imaginative independent technician.
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