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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Are These New Orient Mako Divers Better Than Your Favorite Seiko? Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko ? After getting into Apr 29, 2025

Are These New Orient Mako Divers Better Than Your Favorite Seiko?

After getting into watches seriously, the Orient Mako was the diver that served as the gateway drug into this hobby. I know it was either that or a Seiko SKX for most of us but because of this, the Orient Mako will always have a special place in the collection. I still have it, it was my wedding watch, and that beautiful blue dial still gets me from time to time. Recently, the brand announced a set of anniversary models for their 75th anniversary and the dials just shot out in a way that was too appealing to not mention here on TBWS. Let's take a look at these new Orient Mako references RA-AA0823L and RA-AC0Q12L.

Hands On: Hermès Arceau Le Temps Suspendu SJX Watches
Hermes Apr 29, 2025

Hands On: Hermès Arceau Le Temps Suspendu

Hermès recently revisited a whimsical complication first introduced some 14 years ago, the Arceau Le Temps Suspendu. Still retaining the quirky “suspended time” complication, the new Arceau Le Temps Suspendu gains a multi-layer, open-worked dial that reveals the interesting mechanics behind the mechanism. And it’s been scaled down slightly to 42 mm thanks to a movement upgrade. Initial thoughts I liked the original Le Temps Suspendu, both in terms of form and function. The complication isn’t practical, but it is unique and appropriate for the elegant, whimsical house style of Hermès. The original was a large watch, and the modestly downsized new version is an improvement. The thinner case is possible thanks to a Vaucher base movement, which is a step up over the ETA 2892 in the original. More notably, the open-worked dial adds substantially to the visual appeal. Besides giving the dial more depth, it reveals the surprisingly complex mechanism devised by Agenhor for Hermès. Though the complication is simple on its face, the mechanics required to pull it off are significant, and now they are on show. And most surprising of all, the new Arceau Le Temps Suspendu costs less than the original from 2011, with the rose gold variants priced a little under US$40,000. This is despite the upgraded base movement and more elaborate dial. It runs counter to prevailing practice in high-end watchmaking, and reflects the generally reasonably pricing of Hermès watches. Suspendin...

Introducing: The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Annual Calendar Limited Edition Fratello
Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Annual Calendar Apr 28, 2025

Introducing: The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Annual Calendar Limited Edition

Montblanc began making watches in 1997, but in reality, the brand’s watchmaking history runs a lot deeper. In 2007, the noted penmaker purchased Minerva, a revered Swiss manufacture founded in 1857. Since then, complicated pieces have carried the famous name on the movement and, at times, on the dial. Today’s 1858 Geosphere Annual Calendar Limited […] Visit Introducing: The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Annual Calendar Limited Edition to read the full article.

Seiko Metronome Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Apr 28, 2025

Seiko Metronome

I love when Seiko gets niche, quirky, or just straight-up weird. There was the Egg-Boiling watch for, well, boiling eggs. And then there was even a “Vampire-Exclusive” watch for those who choose to live that lifestyle. But the Seiko Metronome from 2022 is special because it really has a practical purpose and is a little extra nifty because it was made by Seiko Instruments, which is the brand’s division responsible for electric components, printers, and - you guessed it - metronomes. There were several versions of the watch produced in different colors but the Seiko Metronome SMW006A seen here is definitely one of the cleaner and better-looking models. A basic primer for those unfamiliar with this instrument: a metronome is a device that creates a steady beat (either audibly or visually) measured by BPM (Beats Per Minute) to help musicians stay on rhythm. Design: Before getting into the functionality and novelty of the Seiko Metronome, I want to talk about how well designed it is. It would be easy to relegate this watch into the "technical instrument" bucket that so often leads to the “function over form” thinking that results in such obscure and, for lack of a better word, “nerdy” designs that can be really quite off-putting. The Seiko Metronome, and more specifically the reference SMW006A, avoids falling into that trap by leaning into a minimalist, almost-Bauhaus design that belies the data-heavy display of its functionality. The matte white dial is arra...

Nivada-Grenchen Updates the F77 with a Redesigned Case Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen Apr 28, 2025

Nivada-Grenchen Updates the F77 with a Redesigned Case

We have officially reached that point in the integrated bracelet sports watch trend where the late entrants are getting their second generation, “improved” models to market. Case in point, Nivada-Grenchen and their F77. The F77 launched in March of 2023, a time period that most would agree saw the hype around this genre of watch begin to cool in a significant way. That doesn’t take anything away from the F77 as a watch, of course. I’m rather fond of the size and geometry of this one, and it’s a genuine part of Nivada’s heritage. But in terms of its timing, it did debut at “peak” integrated bracelet sports watch mania. And so here we are, two years later, and Nivada has launched a Mark II version of the F77. We’re now at a point, I think, where integrated bracelet sports watches are just part of the landscape, and a required offering for any brand wishing to cast even a somewhat wide net. It makes sense, then, that Nivada would work to improve theirs.  From the looks of it, they’ve made some fairly substantial changes to the case that could have a real impact on how the F77 wears, and it certainly has an impact on the overall aesthetic of the watch. The case measures 12.2mm thick, which is not appreciably different from the previous version, but the lugs have been completely redesigned. The first F77 had lugs that were quite flat and, for an integrated bracelet sports watch, fairly long. The new F77 Mark II has lugs that are much more dramatically curve...

The Timex Triprix: Showing Appreciation for the Forgotten “Poor Man’s Giugiaro” Worn & Wound
Seiko Giugiaro Apr 28, 2025

The Timex Triprix: Showing Appreciation for the Forgotten “Poor Man’s Giugiaro”

If you’ve read any of my work, you’ll know I’ve always had a fascination for 1980s and 90s watch design. It’s a period often overlooked within the collecting community, and through my writing and research, I hope to bring some much-needed attention to it. A few months ago, I wrote an article about the Timex Skiathlom that seemed to interest many of our readers. Another fun piece Timex produced during this same era was the Triprix. Though not as flashy as the Skiathlom, several notable aspects of its design set it apart from your typical digital watch. It’s fun, it’s mighty functional, and it’s as close to owning a Seiko Giugiaro for under $100 as you can get––what’s there not to love? The Triprix’s History and Design According to information gathered through various forums, advertisements, and websites, the Triprix was released in the late 1980s and continued production throughout the early 1990s. The model came out during a period where Timex set their eyes on producing timepieces aimed at sporting and leisure activities like skiing, surfing, fishing, sailing, and running. The central idea was for these timepieces to feature an array of functions that would assist the owner in their leisurely endeavors. According to a 1990 catalog, all variants of the Triprix sold for $40, the equivalent of roughly $100 by today’s standards.  Moving to its design overall, the most noticeable aspect is its slanted digital display. Reminiscent of Seiko’s A828 Digi...

Introducing: The New Garrick S3 Deadbeat Seconds Fratello
Garrick Apr 28, 2025

Introducing: The New Garrick S3 Deadbeat Seconds

When you buy a high-end mechanical watch, you may expect a few things - a fine guilloché dial, for example, and/or a smoothly sweeping seconds hand. British watchmaker Garrick sure knows how to deliver both of those. However, you get neither of them with the new S3 Deadbeat Seconds. What you do get, though, is […] Visit Introducing: The New Garrick S3 Deadbeat Seconds to read the full article.

Timekeeping at the Edge of the World: Four Watches Across Iceland Two Broke Watch Snobs
Apr 28, 2025

Timekeeping at the Edge of the World: Four Watches Across Iceland

Iceland is a place of extremes: glaciers, geothermal hot springs, and black sand beaches shaped by volcanic fury. It’s also a place where time seems to slow down and I thought it was ideal for reflecting on both nature and time spent with family-shaping memories I'll never forget. Watches were also part of the journey, of course. And as I prepared for the trip, the exercise behind choosing which timepieces to bring was something I deeply enjoyed. Now that I'm back, I just wanted to reflect on those choices and how they played a role in my first trip outside the US since the COVID era. I needed it, and it was awesome.

Hands On: Rolex GMT-Master II 126729VTNR “Green Ceramic” & 26715CHNR “Tiger Iron” SJX Watches
Rolex GMT-Master II 126729VTNR “Green Apr 28, 2025

Hands On: Rolex GMT-Master II 126729VTNR “Green Ceramic” & 26715CHNR “Tiger Iron”

In the run up to Watches & Wonders 2025, many commentators expected a breakout year for the GMT-Master II, since it’s the 80th year of the collection. But Rolex took things in a different direction and dominated headlines by launching the Land-Dweller instead. But Rolex didn’t forget about its signature travel watch, and debuted two new precious metal models. The first is the GMT-Master II ref. 126729VTNR, which is in 18k white gold with a left-handed crown and a green ceramic dial; a first for Rolex. The second is the GMT-Master II ref. 126715CHNR in Everose that brings a new dial material to Rolex, tiger iron, one of the oldest minerals on Earth. Both models are available exclusively with an Oyster bracelet in matching 18k gold. The “lefty” with its glossy green ceramic dial Initial thoughts I admit to being laser-focused on the Land-Dweller during Watches & Wonders; the new movement technology captured (and held) my attention throughout the event. But I still made time to check out the GMT-Master II collection, which was one of my favourite Rolex collections at one point in time. Naturally, both of these new references exude quality, which can be experienced directly in the smooth operation of the bezel and the decisive action of the clasp. The watches are decadent, heavy, and show that Rolex has not run out of ideas for interesting dials. In the case of the green ceramic dial in the “destro” variant, I think we can expect to see this material used more wide...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s Pateks Zeniths Apr 27, 2025

A Week in Watches Ep. 102 – The Indies of April

Watches & Wonders may have wrapped a few weeks ago, flooding everyone’s feeds with Tudors, Rolexes, Grand Seikos, Pateks, Zeniths, and more than a few Hublots-but we’re not diving into any of that today. Instead, on episode 102 of A Week in Watches, we take a step back from the hype and turn our attention to the quieter-but no less exciting-independent releases that emerged around the same time. April was surprisingly packed with creative drops from small brands doing things their own way, and while the big names stole the headlines, the indies delivered some of the most interesting watches of the month. Before diving into a few standout releases-yes, including that particularly “crazy” one-here’s a quick heads-up: Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2025 is just around the corner. It’s happening May 2nd through 4th at the Gateway Pavilion in Fort Mason Park. Over 80 brands will be there, it’s free, and it’s open to all. If you’re on the West Coast, swing by. Full details and the exhibitor list are up now at windupwatchfair.com. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 102 – The Indies of April appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Introducing: Qian GuoBiao’s Facing The Sky 2.0 - Marking A Skyward Vision Reborn Fratello
Apr 27, 2025

Introducing: Qian GuoBiao’s Facing The Sky 2.0 - Marking A Skyward Vision Reborn

Independent watchmaking has a knack for unearthing hidden gems in the most unexpected places. In this case, that place is Ninghai, China, home to master watchmaker Qian GuoBiao. His latest creation, Facing the Sky 2.0, marks the return of a concept he first unveiled back in 2018. The original Facing the Sky, a bold 43mm […] Visit Introducing: Qian GuoBiao’s Facing The Sky 2.0 - Marking A Skyward Vision Reborn to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Land-Dweller 127336 Vs. Patek Philippe Cubitus 7128/1G Fratello
Patek Philippe Cubitus 7128/1G It’s Sunday Apr 27, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Land-Dweller 127336 Vs. Patek Philippe Cubitus 7128/1G

It’s Sunday again, and for our showdown this week, we set up a clash between two polarizing watches that inspire no shortage of fervid opinions. First, there is the brand-new Rolex Land-Dweller that the brand unveiled during Watches and Wonders a few weeks back. It goes up against the much-debated Patek Philippe Cubitus, which debuted […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Land-Dweller 127336 Vs. Patek Philippe Cubitus 7128/1G to read the full article.

Watches, Stories, and Gear: X-files Reboot, Freewheelin’ Documentary, A Blank Slate, and New Music Worn & Wound
Apr 26, 2025

Watches, Stories, and Gear: X-files Reboot, Freewheelin’ Documentary, A Blank Slate, and New Music

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. The New Album from Shaky Eddie  If you spend any amount of time consuming watch related content on the internet, chances are you’ve come across Oren Hartov’s byline. Oren has been part of the watch community for years, and has even written a series of articles on historic military issued watches for Worn & Wound. His work has also appeared in GQ, Esquire, Robb Report, Gear Patrol and a number of other publications.    But in addition to being a prolific writer and editor, Oren is also a musician. When his band, Shaky Eddie, released their first album a few years ago, we linked you to it right here. Shaky Eddie just dropped their second album, “Dog Green Blues,” and we couldn’t be happier to spread the word among the watch community. Shaky Eddie is a jazz-fusion group featuring Oren on guitar and a crew of talented Los Angeles based session and touring musicians. The new album can be streamed on Spotify, and you can also support the project by picking up a copy of the album on vinyl at the band’s website.   The Slate Truck: Customizable and Affordable New automaker, Slate Auto, has unveiled a new truck, aptly named “Slate Truck”.  With a strong mini...

New: Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574 Deployant
Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Apr 26, 2025

New: Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574

Panerai proudly returns to the world’s most important design fair as the Official Timekeeper of Salone del Mobile, thus reinforcing Panerai’s commitment to the world of design and innovation. As a tribute to this prestigious occasion, the Maison presents the Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574 making its debut at Panerai’s pop-up at Milano Rho Fiera.

Acclaimed Musician Harry Belafonte’s Wyler Watch Surfaces In The US Fratello
Apr 26, 2025

Acclaimed Musician Harry Belafonte’s Wyler Watch Surfaces In The US

Harry Belafonte is a hero to many, including Fratello reader Billy Denty. This is for good reason. A successful musician who sold more than 3,000,000 albums, he was also a man of immense social conscience. He led a remarkable life, and today, thanks to one Fratello reader, we get to see Belafonte’s Wyler watch up […] Visit Acclaimed Musician Harry Belafonte’s Wyler Watch Surfaces In The US to read the full article.

The Best Grand Seiko Dials Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Apr 25, 2025

The Best Grand Seiko Dials

If there’s one thing Grand Seiko is known for, it is its textured dials….and Spring Drive…and Zaratsu polishing... Okay, one of the things Grand Seiko is known for is its textured dials. Often inspired by the beauty of the natural landscape surrounding Grand Seiko's manufacture in Japan, these dials are now often imitated but never truly replicated. We asked our editorial team here at Teddy to choose their favorite GS dial and, unsurprisingly, we got some really stunning picks here. So, without further ado, here are our Editors’ Picks for favorite Grand Seiko dials. Bilal Khan: SBGA011/SBGA211 "Snowflake" The Grand Seiko SBGA211 (originally the SBGA011), aka the Snowflake, is where it all began. Back in 2004, the watchmakers at the dial workshop in the Shinshu watch studio were given a novel task: create a dial that would capture the beauty of the natural surroundings of where the Spring Drive movement was born. The answer was in front of their eyes when they gazed at the snow-capped mountains that commanded their views for half the year. Creating this dial was a challenge but they found inspiration from an old 56GS watch dating back to 1971, which had a texture similar to what the team wanted to achieve. It took some trial and error but they found success through a silver plating method that would go on to birth the now-iconic "Snowflake" dial. It might look somewhat demure and less dramatic than more recent textured dials, but this is the quintessential Grand Sei...

Fratello’s Top 5 Current Breguet Models Fratello
Breguet Models Apr 25, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Current Breguet Models

This year is full of watch brands celebrating all kinds of anniversaries, but if there’s one with a milestone anniversary, it is Breguet. The house celebrates its 250th anniversary this year. Yesterday, the festivities began with the release of the new Breguet Classique Souscription 2025. It’s a brilliant first step in a new direction under […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Current Breguet Models to read the full article.

Fratello On Air: Useful And Useless Complications Fratello
Apr 25, 2025

Fratello On Air: Useful And Useless Complications

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss two popular complications and their usefulness. It’s the type of nerdy talk we hope you enjoy! This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie settings Watch complications are a big part of why many of us collect […] Visit Fratello On Air: Useful And Useless Complications to read the full article.

Hands On: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon SJX Watches
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon Apr 25, 2025

Hands On: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon

Bulgari made its debut at Watches & Wonders this year, having previously exhibited outside the fair. It was a fitting occasion to launch the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, the thinnest tourbillon watch ever at just 1.85 mm thick. Housed in the brand’s signature matte grey titanium case and limited to just 20 pieces, the Ultra Tourbillon is paired with an equally thin and silky titanium bracelet. Bulgari is deeply invested in its leadership in ultra-thin watchmaking, and the Ultra Tourbillon shows the brand is willing to do whatever it takes to own as many records in this field as possible. Initial thoughts Despite its record-breaking slimness, there was surprisingly little buzz about the Ultra at Watches & Wonders. This may be due to record fatigue, since the previous record was set just last year by the Piaget AUC Tourbillon. It could also be due to the diminishing returns of these types of records, which are now being broken by almost imperceptible margins. On its exterior, the Ultra Tourbillon is quite similar the 1.7 mm-thick Octo Finissimo Ultra introduced last year. It features a 40 mm case made from a combination of titanium and tungsten carbide, and is impressively open-worked, revealing just about every wheel and pinion on the dial side of the watch. But this watch is all about the headline figure of its 1.85 mm thickness, which endows the Ultra Tourbillon with a delicate, almost weightless feel. The case in profile. Image – Bulgari Like all ultra-thin recor...