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Fratello
Another Friday, another list! After a week without a Top 5, we are back with a new one. Watches and Wonders 2025 is over. Now that the dust clouds have settled, it’s time to talk about favorites and the best of the show. In our current Fratello Favorites series, you can read all about our […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Most Significant Releases From Watches And Wonders 2025 to read the full article.
Fratello
Fausto Coppi and Gino Bartali were each other’s opposites. Coppi was an assertive, ascetic, and ambitious athlete, while Bartali was a calm and devoted Catholic who enjoyed a glass of wine with his pasta. Coppi’s nickname was “Il Campionissimo,” which translates to “Champion of Champions.” Bartali was called “Il Pio,” meaning ”The Pious.” The great […] Visit Introducing: The Breitling Top Time B01 Fausto Coppi And Gino Bartali Limited Editions to read the full article.
Monochrome
In 2023, Jean-Claude Biver, an industry veteran who requires no introduction, returned to the spotlight after retiring from his latest position at LVMH when, with his son Pierre, he unveiled the Biver Carillon Tourbillon, the debut timepiece from the newly minted family-name brand. True to form, expectations were sky-high, with the launch setting a tone […]
Time+Tide
As the festivities come to a close, the T+T Team picks their favourites from the biggest release week of the year.The post Geneva Watch Week 2025: the Time+Tide team picks their favourite watches from Watches and Wonders (and beyond!) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A tribute to the first chronograph pocket watch, the Louis Moinet 1816 combines contemporary case design with an all-new, classically constructed chronograph movement featuring a column wheel, horizontal clutch, and swan’s neck regulator. With the 1816, Louis Moinet has concocted an unusual but appealing proposition that blends the new with the old. Initial thoughts Louis Moinet is regarded as the inventor of the chronograph thanks to the compteur de tierce (which translates as “thirds counter”) that he revealed in 1816. His creation was considered more of a scientific instrument than a chronograph as we know it today. It was Nicolas Rieussiec who actually coined the term “chronograph” a few years later in 1821. Now the revived brand bearing Moinet’s name has taken inspiration from his 1816 invention to create a reinterpretation of the compteur de tierce. The original “thirds counter”. Image – Louis Moinet With a monochromatic, all-titanium construction and integrated bracelet, the 1816 looks to be a sports watch, yet it only has a 30 m water resistance. The traditionally styled movement stands in contrast with the contemporary and somewhat trendy exterior. Such a tribute to a historic piece would arguably have worked better with appropriately classical design. As it is, the 1816 is neither a dress nor a sports watch. The design feels confused, but the appeal of the movement alone is clear since it ticks most of the boxes that collectors appreciate in an ...
Worn & Wound
This year was all about the Reverso for Jaeger-LeCoultre. At Watches & Wonders this year, the watchmaker’s watchmaker unveiled a total of nine new Reverso novelties, capturing every expression of the iconic watch. From simple to complicated, highly technical to craft oriented, and in just about every material you’d want to see, it was a stunning output, and truly impressive to see them all up close and personal. We decided to set ourselves up with the impossible task of picking our favorites from the new crop of Reverso novelties introduced last week. Not an easy decision at all, but somehow, across these picks, the team has captured the breadth of the Reverso, or at least started to. Be sure to let us know your favorite among the new Reversos in the comments below, especially if it was one we didn’t happen to select. Zach Weiss Like many watch enthusiasts, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is on my eventual hit list. An iconic dress watch, its signature reversible case design gives it not just a unique look but also function and character. And to that end, I’ve always felt that, if I were to pick one up, I’d have to go for one of the Duoface models, essentially turning one watch into two. Last year, I got the opportunity to spend some time with the newest version of the Reverso Tribute Duoface in rose gold, which left an impression on me. Though it wasn’t the most compact Reverso, the two sides, one with the iconic art deco “tribute” design and a small ...
Monochrome
With the massive return in popularity of integrated bracelet watches in the past few years, metal bracelets have made a sensational comeback, to the point where these are no longer exclusive to sports watches. But how annoying is it to see a brilliantly designed watch, on which the brand has taken great attention to detail […]
Worn & Wound
You have to give it up for Piaget. When they introduced the Altiplano Concept Tourbillon last year, they made a hell of a play for the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch. At 2.0mm, that watch was (as most ultra-thin watches are) inconceivably thin. I have to imagine that, when Piaget introduced that watch last year, they felt pretty good about holding onto the record for at least a while but, as these things go, eventually, Bulgari has to have its say in the matter. A year later, we have Bulgari’s seemingly inevitable response: The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon. At just 1.85mm thick, Bulgari’s latest Ultra-Thin masterpiece represents their 10th world record for thinness in watchmaking and reunites Bulgari with a record it has held on and off since 2014 - which, by way of comparison, was a record they had previously held with watches measuring 5mm and 3.95mm thick. Hard to imagine it, but each of those now seems downright chunky by comparison. There’s a good reason why you often see watches like this held up next to credit cards: Devoid of context, it’s almost impossible for your brain to compute just how little three-dimensional space these watches take up. Bulgari has achieved this stupendously mind-blowing level of thinness by applying the design and construction techniques introduced with the 1.80mm thin Octo Finissimo Ultra and the 1.70mm thin Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC. Most notably, Bulgari has integrated the case and movement of the Octo Finissimo Ultra ...
Fratello
Just when the watch world is beginning to settle into the quiet post-Watches and Wonders pace, Blancpain shakes things up by introducing a version of its 42mm Fifty Fathoms in steel. Recently, I had the pleasure of spending some time with the 42mm Blancpain Fifty Fathoms in titanium. Now the brand has introduced a new […] Visit Introducing: A 42mm Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique In Steel to read the full article.
Fratello
Eckhart Tolle once said, “What a liberation to realize that the ‘voice in my head’ is not who I am. Who am I then? The one who sees that.” While those are wise words indeed, that’s not the question I ask myself. I want to know what kind of Tank I am. I know I’m […] Visit What Kind Of Tank Am I - A Cartier Tank Américaine Or Louis Cartier? to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko’s flagship chronograph gets a new dial with the Tentagraph SLGC007 that just launched at Watches & Wonders 2025. Nearly identical to its predecessor, the SLGC001 with a dark blue dial, the new iteration distinguishes itself through a striking grey dial embossed with a pattern inspired by freshly fallen snow. This is matched with contrasting black sub-dials that coordinate seamlessly with the ceramic bezel, setting it apart from the earlier model. Initial thoughts The SLGC001 was a significant milestone for Grand Seiko - serving as the brand’s first mechanical chronograph - the new iteration of the Tentagraph is a just cosmetic variant. It has all the strengths and weaknesses of the original, though the dial is more attractive. This refreshed dial is far more appealing than the original in blue, as blue is somewhat overused in sports watches. The “panda”-esque black registers are also a nice touch that add to the sporty design. Priced at US$14,700, the Tentagraph SLGC007 is priced reasonably – but not quite the same value proposition as the average Grand Seiko. The Tentagraph has an impressive list of features, most obviously the in-house cal. 9SC5 with Grand Seiko’s proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement, and a high level of fit and finish, but the movement is modular in construction, which should not be a case for a flagship chronograph from a respected watchmaker. Nature inspired once again As is often the case with Grand Seiko dials, the SLGC007...
Quill & Pad
Midnight in Moscow, in the 80s during the Cold War,and Ken Gargett thought it would be a clever idea to head off down a dark alley with two strange Russians. What could possibly go wrong?
Fratello
Welcome to this special installment of Fratello Talks. This is the Watches and Wonders 2025 debrief episode, where Nacho, RJ, Daan, and Lex share their highlights from this year’s show. We also discuss just about every brand and novelty released at the fair. Honorable mentions go to some of the novelties released at the other […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Watches And Wonders 2025 Debrief to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Chanel's stylish J12 has gone on to get a tourbillon upgrade, and is now outfitted with a blue ceramic case and bracelet.The post The Chanel J12 Bleu Diamond Tourbillon merges a diver’s aesthetic with a high-end complication appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
If you ask yourself what’s the most classic dress watch ever made by Patek, and probably one of the most important models of the category, the answer should ultimately be the Calatrava. Not much to debate here. The collection, created in 1932 with the reference 96, has had such an influence on the watch industry […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Watches & Wonders 2025 has come and gone and there was no shortage of unexpected releases and divided opinions. The editorial team here at Teddy was on the ground covering all the new launches, and afterward we asked them to name their favorite release from the show. It’s not an easy task, but we are going to have a few more of these post-show Editors’ Picks articles in the coming days that will expound a bit more on what we thought. For now, let’s get to our overall favorite picks from Watches & Wonders 2025. Danny Milton: Rolex Land-Dweller I won't belabor the point here, considering I penned about 2,000 words on this watch at launch, and helped produce our hands-on coverage at embargo. The Land-Dweller is seriously big news, and in all candor, is the watch of the show, full stop. It plays on nostalgia via its callback to the design language of integrated sports watches from Rolex in the 1970s. It introduces an entirely new design template in the modern Rolex context via a new case; a new, flat Jubilee bracelet; patented stick markers; new open applied numerals; new hands; a new counterweight on the seconds hand; and a new honeycomb dial, not to mention a new fluted bezel design. But the real star of the show is a silicon escapement made from the ground up. Dynapulse is perhaps Rolex's greatest innovation and results in a new 5Hz beat rate while maintaining accuracy, shock resistance and antimagnetic properties. But above all else, the watch honestly looks and wear...
SJX Watches
Just as Watches & Wonders 2025 comes to a close, Patek Philippe is opening the doors of its annual showcase of Rare Handcrafts at its historical home base along the Geneva waterfront. Now open for a period of three weeks rather than two as was the case for the 2024 exhibition, the exhibition features dozens of Dome Clocks, wristwatches, and pocket watches embellished with miniature enamel painting, cloisonné, marquetry, hand engraving, and other artistic forms of decoration. The view from the salon with the historic Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues on the left hidden by trees In addition to the usual nature-inspired themes, this year’s collection plays to nostalgia, including both rose-coloured memories of the past and antiquarian visions of the future. Visiting the Rare Handcrafts exhibit is enjoyable because intellectually it’s a level playing field; it’s mostly the same clocks and watches with the same specs and movements dressed up in different ways. This fact makes it easier to pay attention to one’s own heart, and to get drawn into the creations on an emotional level. Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50R-020 “Regent Street” Clocks While the selection of clocks is naturally centered around the brand’s iconic Dome Clocks, Patek is also bringing back desk clocks with a new version of the ref. 27001M which sold for more than US$10 million at Only Watch in 2021. For the corporate titan who has everything, the million-franc desk clock ref. 27000M is embellished with e...
Monochrome
With Christine Hutter at the helm, Moritz Grossmann – an indie brand that since 2008 pays tribute to one of the pioneers of Glashütte’s watchmaking – has consistently showcased its prowess in crafting technically sophisticated timepieces. The brand has also impressed with exquisitely crafted dials created using time-honoured techniques. This year marks an intriguing evolution […]
SJX Watches
By some measures, Watches & Wonders 2025 was the biggest ever. Visitors rose 12% on the previous year to 55,000, and more inconveniently, the hotel room-nights were up 17% to 43,000, perhaps explaining why accommodation gets more expensive every year (but fortunately still far from the extortion of Basel). But I am certain by other measures Watches & Wonders (W&W;) was a down year. Orders by retailers for new watches are surely lower than a year before. There was an undercurrent of concern throughout the fair, even before American tariffs were announced halfway through. But as is often the case, most executives acknowledge a slowdown but predict their brand will outperform because it is better. The best of the Land-Dweller variants, the 40 mm in platinum Big and small brands One of the most interesting developments this year is the degree of novelty at big brands compared to independent watchmakers. In recent history indies tended to have the more notable creations – the F.P. Journe FFC from two years ago is one of the all-time greats – but this year the opposite happened. The two best launches during W&W; season came from big brands (or at least an establishment brand owned by a big group): the Rolex Land-Dweller and the Vacheron Constantin Solaria Ultra Grand Complication. The Land-Dweller incorporates an extraordinary number of innovations in its cal. 7135, while the Solaria is the most complicated wristwatch ever made, but importantly, it gained the title with a clev...
Fratello
It’s no secret that we are fans of the Tissot PRX here at Fratello. Multiple team members, including yours truly, own a PRX Powermatic 80, so we meet any new addition to the lineup with great interest. The latest expansion of the extensive PRX collection is a pair of red-dial versions of the PRX Quartz […] Visit Introducing: Bright Red Sunburst Dials For The Tissot PRX Quartz to read the full article.
Fratello
Watches and Wonders is over, and it’s time to pick my favorite releases from Geneva. Fratello was there with a team of eight people to ensure we covered all the new watches we thought were interesting to read about. The Watches and Wonders show is also an excellent opportunity to meet with other people in […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - RJ’s Picks From Piaget, Chopard, Rolex, And More to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
GaryG has the pleasure of covering the wonderful Grönefeld One Hertz. For a watch fanatic, and especially for lovers of independent watch brands, it’s a dream come true to meet the makers of the watches that we admire.
Worn & Wound
Twenty years after the release of the Bell & Ross BR-01, which first showcased the square case shape and bold legibility that would become their aesthetic hallmarks, the Franco-Swiss brand is celebrating with new iterations of their most popular and recognizable watches. Among these new editions are four versions of the BR-05 36mm, which gives the model a smaller size and new dial colorways. The most noticeable update to the BR-05 is right there in its name-the smaller and thinner satin-polished steel case measures at 36mm in diameter and 8.5mm in thickness, giving it significantly less heft than the previous 40, 41, and 42mm models. Four screws ensure that the upper section of the case is hermetically sealed to the bottom, and give the iconic rounded square extra urban-industrial character. An integrated bracelet furthers the watch’s sporty-yet-elegant silhouette, secured by a folding satin-finished buckle. A screw-down crown flanked by guards and emblazoned with the Bell & Ross ampersand logo ensures 100 meters of water resistance, while a Caliber BR-CAL.329 automatic movement ticks away inside, maintaining a 54-hour power reserve. Each of the four new models features identical applique numerals and indexes, and skeletonised hour and minute hands (all filled with white Super-LumiNova X1). However, each dial varies in both color and material, all of which lean towards chic-versatility (yes, I did make that phrase up), but maintain a cohesive aesthetic. The first o...
Fratello
Watches and Wonders 2025 might be done and dusted, but some watches continue to haunt me. Patek Philippe is always impressive, but this time, it wasn’t something complicated that struck a nerve. Rather, it was the introverted Calatrava 6196P, a classic with a contemporary twist. The Chanel J12 Bleu collection surprised me in the metal […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Lex’s Picks From Patek Philippe, Chanel, And Roger Dubuis to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Nothing says vintage like the warm flash of pink in the dials of yesteryear, but here are some great modern salmon dials worth considering.The post The 9 best salmon dial watches for collectors with delicious taste appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
We’re back with another set of releases from Watches and Wonders 2025. We’re here to fill you in if you missed these in all the coverage you’ve read. The new Eberhard Contodat watches are straight out of the ’70s, yet they’re anything but kitschy. These were some of my favorite novelties. Eberhard is a plucky […] Visit Checking Out The New Eberhard Contodat Collection to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
That’s right-Windup Watch Fair is heading back to the Bay Area, and we couldn’t be more excited. From Friday, May 2nd to Sunday, May 4th, 2025, the Gateway Pavilion at the Fort Mason Center is the place to be for watch lovers, collectors, and anyone who just appreciates great design and craftsmanship. Windup Watch Fair San Francisco Friday, May 2 – Sunday, May 4, 2024 Gateway Pavilion at Fort Mason Center for Arts & Culture San Francisco, CA Free and open to the public. If you’ve never been to Windup before, here’s the scoop: it’s a free, three-day event created by Worn & Wound to bring together the watch community. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or just getting into the hobby, this is your chance to see amazing timepieces up close, chat with the people who make them, and connect with fellow enthusiasts-all in a fun, laid-back atmosphere. Not to mention, Windup SF is easily held at one of our most iconic venues: Pier 2 in San Francisco Bay with unforgettable views of both Alcatraz and The Golden Gate Bridge. This year, we’re stoked to have an incredible lineup of lead sponsors, including anOrdain, Christopher Ward, Fortis, Frederique Constant, and Oris. These brands are bringing their A-game with some seriously cool watches, and you’ll get the chance to check them out firsthand. Expect a killer mix of independent and well-known brands, hands-on experiences, and the opportunity to buy watches directly from the people who craft them. Plus, there...
Hodinkee
New size, new Master Chronometer spec, and good to 1000 meters.
SJX Watches
Right on time for Breguet’s 250th anniversary this year, Phillips just revealed it will soon be selling Breguet Sympathique no. 1, the unique, entirely gold clock created as a tribute to the 19th century originals made by Abraham-Louis Breguet. This is the first time the clock is emerging in public after it was first sold in 1991. Actually a clock with an accompany wristwatch (that can be transformed into a pocket watch), the Sympathique is masterful, modern-day creation that reproduces the genius of A.-L. Breguet’s original concept of a master clock that winds and sets a removable watch over the course of the night, allowing the owner to retrieve the watch for use the next day. The first of a 20-piece series, clock no. 1 is most unique in both entirely solid gold – the master clock, wristwatch, pocket watch case, and bracelet are all in 18k yellow gold. Like the rest of the series it was constructed by Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA) in Sainte-Croix, a complications workshop that is today most famous for having had Francois-Paul Journe, Denis Flageollet, and Vianney Halter amongst its alumni. One of the artisans who worked on the Sympathique series was Dominique Mouret, a clockmaker who today still restores antique clocks in his workshop in Sainte-Croix. The clock comes straight from the collection of the original owner who paid CHF1.55 million at The Art of Breguet auction held by Antiquorum in 1991. It has an estimate in excess of CHF1.00 million, but I t...
Monochrome
The latest watch in the very appealing Hermès Cut collection is more than just a jump from 36mm to 39mm, as it adds the ability to “suspend time” (Le Temps Suspendu) with a complication first seen in the 2011 Arceau collection. At the press of a button, the hour and minute hands move into a […]
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