Hodinkee
Digi-Cool Watches From The Seventies Are Back With A Sleek Vengeance
Wild designs and glowing LEDs mark a return of extravagant '70s wristwear.
Results for Monaco, McQueen, and Le Mans (1971)
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Hodinkee
Teddy Baldassarre
The Seiko Dress Watch Of The Yar
As someone who typically leans towards the toolish side of Seiko’s offerings, there was something about the watch I bring you today which stopped me in my tracks for an inexplicable reason. Perhaps it is explicable (perhaps in real time while writing this) and I may figure out a way to explic...I mean, explain it. Yes, I am coming to you to introduce a new Seiko Presage Classic model. It is called the SPB478J1, and I think it just might be the attainable dress watch of the year. Okay, taking a step back for a moment, I am a Rolex guy and a two-tone guy. I regularly wear a two-tone Rolex Datejust on a jubilee bracelet so I certainly have a type. And you can see from looking at this watch, the Seiko SPB478J1, that it fits nicely into this category for me. Getting my biases out of the way, let’s dig into the watch. So Seiko, as we know, calls its watches by their reference numbers. But it also gave this one a nice little descriptor on the website: Delicate Cream Silk. I mean, come on, that’s amazing. It’s almost like it could be the alternative name of a band consisting of Bruno Mars and Anderson Paak. The name actually refers to the watch’s dial because, of course it does. The dial texture is “inspired by unbleached natural Japanese silk, a material which has long featured in Japanese home décor and clothing since ancient times.” The brand calls this a ‘Shiro-Iro’ colored dial. Moving to the watch itself, it features gold-colored accents for a mixed-met...
Monochrome
First Look – The Bovet Récital 21 Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Becomes Sleeker with Sapphire Dials
Bovet’s watchmaking universe is characterised by incredibly complex timepieces staged with dramatic flair and decorated to unparalleled standards. Founded in 1822, Pascal Raffy breathed new life into Bovet to create a highly niche connoisseur brand. While classical complications and centuries-old decorative techniques abound, Bovet is no stranger to the potential of sapphire crystals and luminescence […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Horage Omnium K2 Collection
During last month’s WatchPro Salon 2024 in London, we met with Horage and saw several pieces from the brand’s upcoming Omnium K2 collection. Due to a faceted crystal, these watches are a notably different take on a dress watch. I came away impressed with the creative approach. Horage has been in business for 15 years, […] Visit Introducing: The Horage Omnium K2 Collection to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Hublot’s Latest Art Piece is a Big Bang Tourbillon Designed by Samuel Ross
Those who know me personally, and perhaps those of you who regularly tune into the podcast and read my little ramblings here on the blog, know that over the course of the last year I’ve become somewhat disillusioned with large luxury brands and what I perceive as a general stodginess among the big luxury groups. I’m finding that there’s just a lot more innovation and original thought – at every price point – in the independent sphere. Not only that (because it’s really not surprising), but indies are truly having a moment. They aren’t just more interesting and “better” in most metrics than big group brands, they are peaking, and perhaps in the midst of a new golden age of boundary pushing watchmaking. But, of course, there are exceptions. There are still mass market brands that get me excited by taking risks and doing things that are inherently not mass market, and Hublot has long been Exhibit A. This is a brand that was unfairly maligned for a long time by the enthusiast community, but as the pendulum has swung from straightforward sports watches to more creative and inspired designs, many have come to appreciate the pure originality at Hublot. If I didn’t know better, it would be easy to assume they were an indie themselves. Something that Hublot does better than just about any other brand, indie or otherwise, is position their watches as works of art. There’s probably a real debate to be had about whether watches, particularly modern watches prod...
Monochrome
Introducing – Omega Adds a Gradient Turquoise Option to the Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m Collection
It has become a pretty recurring thing for Omega to release new models, or at least new editions of existing watches, with very little or no fanfare. While this has happened in the Planet Ocean and Speedmaster collections, it’s mostly the Aqua Terra family that sees these discreet releases dropping regularly. Following the addition of […]
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: Vintage Mathey-Tissot Type 20 Big Eye Chronograph
This is the story of GaryG's pursuit, and eventual capture, of a classic vintage watch: a Type 20 “big eye” flyback chronograph manufactured by Mathey-Tissot.
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Tusenö Windseeker, A Serious All-Rounder Watch at a Fair Price
Recently, we’ve introduced a rather promising all-rounder watch coming from the North, the Windseeker made by a young Swedish micro-brand named Tusenö Watches. On paper, everything seemed good: nice design, an extensive list of specs, a pleasant blend of casualness and refinement, a Swiss movement and a truly attractive price. But that was on paper. […]
Fratello
Fratello Talks: Microbrands Vs. Entry-Level Legacy Brands
Hi there, and welcome to Fratello Talks. Would you rather buy a watch from a microbrand or an entry-level legacy brand? That’s the question Nacho, Thomas, and Lex ask themselves today. As we’ve begun to see microbrands develop and offer better quality and undeniable value while entry-level big-name brands stand relatively still, this has certainly become […] Visit Fratello Talks: Microbrands Vs. Entry-Level Legacy Brands to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800
The Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 is Panerai’s fourth LAB-ID “concept” watch, but probably the most interesting watch in its current catalogue from a technical standpoint. It’s a big, complex watch – inside the 49 mm ceramised titanium case is a movement with six mainsprings. More accurately, it has a conventional movement with twin barrels, plus an illumination module with four of its own mainsprings that generate enough to light up the dial, hands, and bezel for a lengthy 30 minutes. Initial thoughts For the most part I prefer traditionally-styled Panerai watches, either the vintage remakes or the 1990s-type 44 mm models (though I admit the brand’s recent calendar complications are done well). The Submersible Elux hardly resembles a vintage Panerai, but is one of the rare modern creations that is appealing, both in terms of concept and execution, but not so much price-wise. The Submersible Elux is both ridiculous and cool. It’s enormous at 49 mm and also costs just under US$100,000. But it’s arguably the greatest evolution of the historical Panerai speciality of glow-in-the-dark dive watches. And the price is explained in part by the small scale of production in Switzerland. Granted, at this price the PAM01800 isn’t a practical diving instrument, but the technology inside is interesting and notably sophisticated compared to past attempts at light-up watches, all of which suffered from impractically short illumination or power reserve. In time, the te...
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward’s Dallas Showroom: Experience a Piece of England, Deep in the Heart of Texas
Christopher Ward is one of those brands that’s been doing it their very own way from the beginning. Between its direct-to-consumer business model to its recent expansion into approachable haute horology, the Christopher Ward team has been willing to experiment with new technologies and marketing strategies, pushing the industry forward-whether they like it or not. We recently had the chance to sit down with a familiar face, Michael Pearson is Christopher Ward’s Brand Director for the North America region. We chatted about the brand, the watches, and most importantly we discussed the opening of the company’s first showroom outside of England, located near Dallas, TX. We were also honored to be the team chosen to officially photograph the space for the public. Please enjoy both our conversation and these first-glimpse photos of Christopher Ward’s ambitious expansion. The post Christopher Ward’s Dallas Showroom: Experience a Piece of England, Deep in the Heart of Texas appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
Video Review – The F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical, One of the Only Tourbillon Wristwatches that Makes Sense
If you’re reading this article and MONOCHROME on a regular basis, you should certainly all about the tourbillon, this device where the regulating organ is placed in a constantly rotating cage, counteracting the negative effect of gravity. But we have to keep in mind that the tourbillon, conceived and patented by Breguet in 1801, was […]
Worn & Wound
21 Of The Best Field Watches For Under $1,000
In this video, we take a look at some of the best field watches on the market priced under $1,000. We look at 21 different watches in both a modern and traditional format from brands like Timex, Seiko, Citizen, and Formex, just to name a few. While the definition of field watch can be a little bit murky, we tried to pick a bit of a variety of watches to fit any personal preference while staying true to the core values of legibility, durability, and a sense of simplicity. Deep rooted in military tradition, the field watch tends to fit a certain bill though I am sure a few on this list will surprise you. We will be creating more content like this in the future, so be sure to follow along on our Windup Watch Shop YouTube channel for more! The post 21 Of The Best Field Watches For Under $1,000 appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
The Vulcain Nautical Legacy Massena Lab presents an alternate history of Cricket diving
The hulking, vintage-style Vulcain Nautical diver and its alarm function have been given a Massena Lab-flavoured makeover.The post The Vulcain Nautical Legacy Massena Lab presents an alternate history of Cricket diving appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Introducing A Tougher Shade Of White: The Urwerk UR-230 Ceramique
If you compare horology and science, Urwerk must be fundamental science. The house does not ask what people need. Instead, it asks what is possible on the fringes. The Urwerk UR-230 is a prime example. Its dual-turbine system allows the user to regulate the watch’s winding. Does anyone need that? No. But who cares? It […] Visit Introducing A Tougher Shade Of White: The Urwerk UR-230 Ceramique to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Nomos Tangente 2Date Review
Germany’s Nomos Glashütte has built its avid following on an adherence to minimalist, Bauhaus-style simplicity in its watch designs, and it has the Red Dot awards to prove it. In all of its similar but subtly distinct product families — particularly the Tangente, the brand’s acknowledged flagship — Nomos has approached complications with great care, mostly focusing on the understated and utilitarian. Sometimes, however, even the most restrained watchmaker wants to have some fun, to make a watch with an added function that isn’t really necessary or even practical but adds an indisputable cool factor. Such is the case with the Tangente 2Date, unveiled earlier this year, which, as its cheeky name implies, is the first Nomos watch that displays the date in two different ways. And even though that sounds like an idea from the Department of Redundancy Department, don’t knock it until you’re tried it — as I had the opportunity to do recently, with Nomos sending me a review model of the Tangente 2Date with a sunray-brushed blue dial. Case: Like all Nomos watches, particularly those in the flagship Tangente collection, the 2Date is recognizably Bauhaus in its aesthetic. The 37.5mm case is practically bezel-free, with just the narrowest hint of one framing the wide dial opening. At just 6.75mm high (6.65 on the version without a sapphire caseback), the case weighs lightly on the wrist and slips easily under a shirt cuff. The lugs are thin and angular, from the front...
Deployant
New Video: Czapek Manufacture – the suppliers
Czapek CEO takes us on a tour of two suppliers: enamel dials at Donzé Cadrans and titanium case/bracelets at Ab Products & Ab Concepts.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Urwerk UR-230 Polaris in White Ceramic
Typically, Urwerk leans heavily on darker tones for its case designs, with few exceptions, such as the EMC Time Hunter in its Stormtrooper-like white ceramic. However, the new Urwerk UR-230 Polaris marks another bold and refreshing departure. With a case crafted from a ceramic-based white composite, this release feels surprising and perfectly natural, expanding the […]
Time+Tide
Time+Tide brings you the British Watchmakers’ Weekender
Take an inside look at the fun and madness of our British Watchmakers' Weekender held earlier this year. The post Time+Tide brings you the British Watchmakers’ Weekender appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Slimmer, More Compact Mido Multifort TV 35mm
It’s evident that Mido has its ear to the ground and is receptive to feedback from its customers. The Mido Multifort TV Big Date has been a resounding success that appeals to fans of retro-style watches with its large 1970s TV-shaped case and big date feature at noon. Recently, Mido introduced a smaller 35mm version […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Black Omega Seamaster Diver 300M
This story all started with Daniel Craig…again! Indeed, many Omega stories do nowadays. The former on-screen secret agent wasn’t that secretive about wearing a new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M during the Paris Olympics earlier this year. As always, watch enthusiasts took notice, and that’s when the internet went crazy. It started the rumor mill that […] Visit Hands-On With The New Black Omega Seamaster Diver 300M to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
Review: Is The IWC Portugieser Chronograph Dune The Watch You Didn’t Know You Wanted?
The IWC Portugieser is one of the Schaffhausen brand’s most iconic models, and with a new lineup this year, we thought we would take the new Portugieser Chronograph ‘Dune’ out to see how it feels on the wrist. What We Love The watch’s ability to pair with most outfits The dial finishing is excellent, with the sunray finish looking stunning The design is timeless and won’t date easily What We Don’t The monochromatic coloured dial could use some contrast to aid with legibility The clasp is a little hard to open The lack of a date window gives it less functionality Overall Score: 8.6 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 2024 has been a stellar year for IWC Schaffhausen. They launched the new look Portugieser collection at Watches & Wonders 2024, which I felt was one of the best collections released at the fair this year. Whilst other brands focused their efforts on just a few models or high complications, IWC took the opportunity to re-vamp the entire line, with new colourways reflecting the times of the day and in steel and precious metals. They also had an epic soundtrack playing in their booth, which could be heard throughout the Palexpo, so it was almost as if IWC provided the soundtrack to Watches & Wonders 2024. They also released the Portugieser Eternal Calendar as part of this collection which was the brand’s contribution to the high-end pieces we saw throughout the fair, which then went on to break the Guin...
Fratello
The New Oak & Oscar Humboldt GMT SAR Edition
Seven months have passed since Oak & Oscar released its Atwood hand-wound chronograph. However, it seems that founder Chase Fancher and the team were already plotting the next model, the Humboldt GMT SAR Edition. To be fair, this is a limited offering designed with a search and rescue team in mind. However, it deserves attention […] Visit The New Oak & Oscar Humboldt GMT SAR Edition to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Oak & Oscar Introduces the Humboldt GMT SAR Edition
On a new release calendar that’s full of limited edition collaborations that don’t always make a ton of logical sense, it’s refreshing to see one come across our desks that feels like a genuine meeting of the minds. Oak & Oscar is a longtime fixture in the micro/independent brand space, and at this point it’s fair to say that they’ve carved out a pretty recognizable niche for themselves. When you think of Oak & Oscar, you probably immediately think of the brand’s midwest roots, a love of the outdoors, and, of course, bourbon. Their latest release, a 50 piece limited collaboration with the St. Louis County Rescue Squad, combines at least two of these ideas, and the result is a handsome, sporty GMT that first right in Oak & Oscar’s wheelhouse. For context, the St. Louis County Rescue Squad is made up of volunteers who provide lifesaving services to outdoor enthusiasts visiting northern Minnesota’s Boundary Waters Canoe Area (BWCA). As Oak & Oscar explains, the BWCA is an “outdoor-lover’s dream,” featuring hiking trails, camping, canoeing, and more. Oak & Oscar became a member of the Boundary Waters Business Coalition in 2021, a sign of their commitment to the preservation of the BWCA. To that end, the new Humboldt GMT SAR Edition serves as a reminder of that commitment, as well as a means to help fund the efforts of the St. Louis County Rescue Squad (a portion of the proceeds from the sale of these watches will be donated to the Squad). This new lim...
Monochrome
Video – What Armin Strom has Achieved in 15 years… Resonance!
Fifteen years of Armin Strom… witnessing how far they have come in one-and-a-half decade is more than impressive. Claude Greisler and Serge Michel took over the watch business from Mr. Armin Strom, who had made a name for himself as a specialist in hand-skeletonizing. Claude and Serge had a different ambition: to put their own […]
Worn & Wound
The Highly Anticipated Omega Speedmaster Pilot Has Landed
One of the cool things about the Omega Speedmaster is that it can truly be just about any watch it needs to be. It’s the Moonwatch, of course, but it’s also a racing chronograph, a dressy chronograph, a chronograph inspired by WWII era military watches, and it can even be a plastic toy. That, I think, is what makes it “iconic,” an overused word if there ever was one in our trade, but one that nonetheless applies perfectly to the Speedmaster. It’s also, from time to time, a pilot’s watch, and Omega’s newest release, part of a late-in-the-year drip of new product that has the brand positioned as one of the big winners of 2024, is a Speedmaster that is purpose built for the skies in a way we rarely see the Speedy outside of Omega’s quartz offerings. The new Speedmaster Pilot, as it is known, has been the subject of speculation for much of this year. Leaked images of the watch on the wrist of US military pilots generated a great deal of discussion on the forums and Instagram, and our friends at Fratello provided a great overview of everything that was known about the Speedmaster “Flight Qualified” back in September. That watch (the one seen in the leaked images) appears to be made for military personnel only. The one seen here can be thought of as the civilian version. It differs somewhat in aesthetic details, but in terms of specs and features it appears to be identical, and offers its own unique Speedy experience. This is a two register Speedmaster wi...
Worn & Wound
A New Nomos Club Sport in a Smaller 34mm Case
Over the years, my feelings about Nomos have become more and more complex. Like many enthusiasts, the brand was an early discovery on the forums, and felt like an insider’s secret of sorts. Here was a small firm based in the historic German watchmaking community of Glashitte making interesting, immediately identifiable watches with in-house components at an approachable price point – Nomos felt like the primary counter example to the purists who insisted you had to spend well into the five figures for real watchmaking. In recent years, the brand has grown considerably, radically expanding their catalog to include a variety of sportier references in larger sizes, as well as widely proliferating their excellent ultra thin automatic in-house movement throughout their collection. Watches made by Nomos are objectively good. They are well designed, attractive, colorful (or not) and made to exacting standards that ensure they can be treated like the heirlooms the brand has always implied they are through the suggestion that engraving an important message on the caseback is part of the Nomos experience. But Nomos, in comparison with other brands most would identify as their peers, have been treading water in terms of the introduction of new products. Is that a fair criticism? It might not be. After all, if a Nomos (or any watch) is meant to be a purchase that stays with the owner (or the eventual recipient) for decades, constantly releasing new watches to keep up with a manu...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: First Spotted On The Wrist In A U-2 Spy Plane – The New Flight Qualified Omega Speedmaster 'Pilot'
It is not quite a Flightmaster, but it is flight-tested and now here for civilians and military pilots alike.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified
While the Speedmaster started its life as a racing chronograph destined to measure average speeds (hence its name), it quickly changed vocation when, during the 1960s, it became the watch of choice for US Air Force pilots and, of course, NASA astronauts. From there, the Speedmaster became one of the most famous pilot’s chronographs and […]
Deployant
Review: the amazing Rudis Sylva RS14 Titane
We had the Rudis Sylva RS14 Titane on hand for the best part of the month, and here is our in-depth comprehensive review of this amazing watch.