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Time+Tide
There are plenty of brands who like to talk about adventure, whether it’s marketing a new field watch or boasting about water and resistance. Reading up on Norqain, it’s almost a surprise when you remember that they made watches and not adventure gear like icepicks and tents. So how did Norqain go from nonexistent in … ContinuedThe post Everything you need to know about Norqain appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Rolex has given the Daytona its first proper redesign since the 116520 was released in 2000. With it comes an updated movement, and a few nods to older references that we’ve been asking for, as well a surprise or two along the way. The new Daytona design replaces all existing references with a new base collection that spans from steel; yellow Rolesor; yellow, white, and Everose gold; and of course, platinum. Each receives an updated 4131 automatic movement which finally brings stuff like the Chronergy escapement to the collection. It also gets an openworked oscillating weight, which, for the first time ever on a Daytona, is visible through an exhibition caseback on the platinum anniversary reference. At a glance, the new Daytona doesn’t look all that different from the outgoing references. This is very much an iteration of the same concept that’s been evolving since 1953. The most immediately apparent departure from the prior generation is the thickness of the rings surrounding the sub dials, the shape of the hour markers, and the bezel construction. They add up to a notably different vibe that presents a slightly jarring take on the dial design thanks to the altered proportions. The thinner sub dial surrounds in particular highlight this difference, and it’s a detail most noticeable on the steel examples as they are contrasted against the dial color alone. The precious metal references get those sub dials filled in, which work well here. One of the most welcomed...
SJX Watches
With luxury brands vying to offer clients individuality in products, customised watches are now fairly common. The trend began at aftermarket providers, but establishment watchmakers are gradually making such offerings available beyond their highest-end clientele. The latest entrant is IWC with its Individualisation Service, a surprisingly straightforward customisation process that’s a first for a mainstream watch brand. Available at just two locations for now, the service allows clients to personalise a Portugieser Chronograph; anyone can walk into either of the IWC stores in Shanghai or Dubai and select a case material, match it with a variety of dials and straps, with the finished watch ready in about three weeks. The caveat: the customised watch costs an CHF1,500 over the retail price of the standard-production model. Initial thoughts Despite the clunky name, IWC’s Individualisation Service is definitely a welcome development since it’s a factory-official customised watch that is relatively accessible in price. Customisation is typically offered to only a brand’s biggest-spending clients, so this democratises the concept to a degree. Granted, it’s being trialed at just two locations, but it will surely be rolled out more widely once its commercial viability is proven. That said, the Individualisation Service has limitations. It allows clients to choose from a range of fixed options, rather than allowing free rein to tweak or redesign the watch. So if you...
Time+Tide
We all need some prejudicial rules of thumb to navigate the messy business of life. Charles Bukowski swore by the fairly unimpeachable conviction that you should “never trust a man in a jumpsuit”. Billy Connolly meanwhile believed you should “never trust a man who, when left alone with a tea cosy, doesn’t try it on” … ContinuedThe post Richard E Grant may have found the only excuse for double-wristing (but there’s a catch…) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex watches are indisputably some of the most popular and coveted timepieces on the planet, and every watch enthusiast has their own ideas about (and often their own criteria for) what the best Rolex watches are. But how much do you really know about how your favorite Rolex model came about, why exactly it's so special and distinct from all the rest, and in some cases why it is historically significant to the watch industry as a whole? In this feature, we take a tour through nine of the most important and/or interesting Rolex watches, from their original conception to their place in the modern horological canon. Origins of an Icon The most famous Swiss watch brand in the world was originally not even Swiss: it was founded by a German in the United Kingdom. Hans Wilsdorf (1861-1960), an orphan raised by his uncles in Kulmbach, Germany, learned entrepreneurship and self-sufficiency early in life, and began his career in the Swiss watch industry in 1900 when he started as a clerk at the watchmaking firm of Cuno Korten in La Chaux-de-Fonds, responsible for the maintenance and accuracy of hundreds of pocket watches per day. In 1905, two years after moving to London, Wilsdorf (below) partnered with another businessman named Alfred Davis to establish Wilsdorf & Davis, the company that would become Rolex. Wilsdorf & Davis, based in London’s Hatton Garden commercial district, was founded with a mandate to make reliably precise watches at affordable prices. In 1914, days...
Hodinkee
At HODINKEE, we believe watches are for everyone – but we also realize that newcomers sometimes don't know where to start. To show how anyone can go from zero to watch enthusiast, we've asked a curious, hilarious writer to chronicle her adventures and misadventures as a beginner. Here's her first dispatch.
Time+Tide
I have penned nearly a thousand articles for this site over the last two years, but two of the most read were under the Trading Faces tag – where I dissect an actual watch trade I have made in my collection. I love that you guys love it, because I love writing them. But now I … ContinuedThe post TRADING FACES: Why I swapped my Rolex Submariner for a Rolex Explorer 1016 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Independent watchmaking has been gaining rapid momentum in the last three years. Young and talented watchmakers have emerged to seek recognition (and sometimes riches) in the mould of Philippe Dufour, Kari Voutilainen, and François-Paul Journe. Now the field is about to get the nod of approval from the luxury-goods establishment, with Louis Vuitton having announced the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. Conceived to promote “horological creativity”, the award begins in 2023 with a broad remit. It is open to anyone in watchmaking and watch design, and even from fields related to horology. Initial thoughts As the world’s largest luxury brand, Louis Vuitton has unsurprisingly been making high-end watches for some time – last year was the 20th anniversary of its first mechanical wristwatch. Following its acquisition of Geneva movement maker La Fabrique du Temps in 2012, the brand’s ambitions have grown, resulting in impressively complicated watches like the Tambour Carpe Diem, a minute repeater with automaton. From that perspective, the Louis Vuitton prize is a natural extension of the brand’s progress as a watchmaker, a way for Louis Vuitton to make known its commitment to high-end watchmaking. The fact that Louis Vuitton is using its considerable resources – the brand’s 2021 revenue was in the region of €15 billion – to support independent watchmakers is a welcome development. The prize money is substantial, reputedly in the low six ...
Hodinkee
I don't want a lot for Christmas – there is just one thing I need (this hilarious Swatch).
Quill & Pad
If you follow the world of independent watchmaking, by now you’ve almost certainly heard of watchmaker Rexhep Rexhepi and his Akrivia watches. Since arriving on the scene in 2012 with its first tourbillon-based watch, Akrivia has continued to delight. But is this independent bound for glory? GaryG predicts the future.
SJX Watches
As is its habit, Seiko is marking the 110th anniversary of its first-ever wristwatch with a series of limited editions starting with the recent Presage SBP359. Now the Japanese watchmaker unveils the Prospex Save the Ocean “Seiko Watchmaking 110th Anniversary” based on its “turtle” dive watch but featuring a patterned dial reminiscent of the popular Grand Seiko “White Birch”. Initial thoughts When Seiko first announced limited editions for the 110th anniversary, I was expecting a reissue of the original Laurel wristwatch, which turned out to be spot on. But as a longtime fan of Seiko dive watches, I was hoping for something based on the “Turtle” for the occasion. Well, I am happy to say that the SPB333 does not disappoint. Though it is easily recognisable as a “Turtle”, it is clear that thought went into the styling. Its designers used the classic diver as a template for gentle experimentation and the result certainly delivers. The dial is beautiful and certainly fancier than that on the average Seiko diver. Though ostensibly inspired by glaciers, the textured dial certainly brings to mind the popular “White Birch” pattern found on several Grand Seiko models. This level of dial decoration on a “tool” watch places the SPB333 on my Christmas wish list. Pattern aside, I do have some bones to pick with the dial design, specifically the date window between four and five o’clock. I find date windows on Seiko divers are far better in the cust...
Quill & Pad
When De Bethune released the new DB25s Perpetual Calendar at Geneva Watch Days 2022, the main talking point was just how much the model had shrunk from its previous iterations to become a more perfect proportion. And like any good diet consultation, it was the result of careful and deliberate attention paid to the watch as a whole and how components worked with each other.
Quill & Pad
Stephen McGonigle, owner and co-founder of McGonigle watches, has been regularly asked by friends and watch aficionados over the years to make something that they could afford – or at least aspire to. Making a relatively affordable watch that he could be proud of was a challenge, but one McGonigle has met with the first watch from his new Magon brand: the Fórsa Titanium, an automatic column wheel chronograph in a distinctive tonneau-shaped case.
Time+Tide
I know many of us jest at the frequency with which Grand Seiko releases limited editions. To be fair, plenty of other brands are guilty of repeated limited-edition novelty debuts. But, on the other side of the coin, how can we fault them? We often see people go crazy for limited editions, especially Grand Seiko … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGY023 GS9 Club USA Limited Edition is yet another GS we wish was standard production appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Hamilton is an industry leader for watch cameos in film. Their timepieces have been interwoven into many silver screen narratives, with recent Christopher Nolan movies like Interstellar and Tenet a prime example of a watch not just simply being placed on an actor, but also a core element and story device of the plot as well. In Interstellar, the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hamilton Khaki Field Murph is now available in 38mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Or raid the collections of your favorite Talking Watches alumni. And it's all for charity.
Time+Tide
Fans of the best affordable integrated bracelet sports watch, rejoice! While possibly a bold claim, no other big box brand has managed to grasp the market quite as well as the Tissot PRX. Though successful, the Swatch Group brand has been pretty quiet with strap support for the PRX, despite its quick-release bracelet and the … ContinuedThe post Delugs delivers with a range of high-end rubber straps for the Tissot PRX appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A compact take on the signature Panerai watch that made its debut in 2016, the Luminor Due is essentially a scaled-down version of the military-inspired original, which allows it to wear easily on smaller wrists. To date, the Luminor Due has remained minimalist, making do without complications save for a date display. But now Panerai gone for something slightly more elaborate with the Luminor Due Luna that has a small seconds and moon phase display featuring a solid-gold moon disc. Initial thoughts I like the compact size of the Due, as well as its more formal styling that allows it to double as a dress watch. Although the original, full-size Luminor is a clean, almost elegant design, its massive size and stark aesthetics means it can only be a military-style watch. The Due, on the other hand, manages to preserve the outline of the original Luminor while being modestly elegant. For that reason, the new Luna is an appealing watch. At just 38 mm wide, it is clearly more wearable, while the engraved, solid-gold moon gives it a bit of sparkle. And the all-gold model comes along with a mother of pearl dial, making it even more luxe. Interestingly, the Luminor Due is largely targeted at female clientele, but models have a masculine aesthetic. That continues with the Luna, which is available in steel with a metallic blue dial, a combination leaves it looking very much like a conventional men’s watch. The dial design is largely classical Panerai, although the proportions seem a...
Time+Tide
When the Zenith Chronmaster Revival went pink for the Pink Dial Project Auction, many bidders were excited at the prospect of winning such a vibrant piece unique. Sadly, this meant many missed out – until now. In a manner that allows more people to have a pink-dialled Zenith watch, while protecting the integrity of the … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Zenith goes pink for breast cancer, Westime thrills Richard Mille fans in the US appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
One of the biggest gripes in the watch marketplace is accessibility. For example, when the MoonSwatch launched, and it was revealed it would only be sold in boutiques, many were concerned they did not have a place to visit locally to purchase it. This is where e-commerce is crucial, opening the doors and giving people … ContinuedThe post Zenith launches e-commerce in Australia – boutique editions available now online! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Innovation is always risky, but HYT paid the ultimate price in 2021 when they were forced into bankruptcy less than 10 years after announcing their award-winning H1 watch to raucous reception. Now only a year later, HYT have been resurrected by Kairos Technology Switzerland - an innovative company in their own right who have appointed … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The HYT Hastroid is like an alien spaceship for the wrist (in a good way) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It is no secret that the watch community and industry is a rather male-dominated space. With people of all genders, however, becoming more and more familiar with the world of watches there is a hunger to hear from new voices and perspectives. Most watch coverage is rooted in the male gaze, reviews and verdicts stemming … ContinuedThe post Tea for two, plus you? Killing Time podcast serves fresh flavours after lots of whiskey and watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
In 1953, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms became the first modern dive watch that was readily available to consumers. Tackling the practical requests of French Navy combat swimmers, the original Fifty Fathoms set the default style for modern diving watches by offering guaranteed water resistance, a large 41mm case, a rotating timing bezel and a luminous … ContinuedThe post Blancpain wants you to know that it’s World Oceans Day appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Ineichen Auctioneers are known for their thematic auctions, whether it’s focusing on blue dials for “Precious Blues” or the rose-gold themed “La Vie en Rose” auction earlier this year. They also have a pioneering spirit – their most recent Joker XXX auction consisted of a three-piece set including a piece unique watch, Porsche 911, and … ContinuedThe post My 5 favourite lots from the Ineichen Royal 50 auction on May 28 – with no buyer’s premium! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Audric launched their first watch in 2020, deep in the throes of the global pandemic. The SeaBorne stood out from the crowd of Kickstarter-funded dive watches due to its multicoloured flair, attention to detail and impressive bang for its buck. For their second watch, the Audric Strider, the brand has now pulled out all the stops … ContinuedThe post MICRO-MONDAYS: The Audric Strider is a stylish diver with hefty wrist presence for under $600 (if you’re quick) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders means a bombardment of fresh releases, so we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned throughout the week for deeper coverage, some of which will include live pics and our hands-on perspective. But for … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS: Cartier reveals the shape of things to come for 2022 with expansive range of novelties appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
When contemplating German pen making, if your mind immediately turns to such brands as Pelikan, Lamy, Montblanc, Faber-Castell, and other storied companies, it’s time to add Otto Hutt to the list. Nancy Olson takes a look at the brand's design c and and design 08 writing instruments, which set a new course for the traditional German pen maker.
Time+Tide
A long time ago in a land far away (2012 / Canada), I embarked on the journey of watch collecting. I had saved enough to confidently go into the local Rolex authorised dealer and strike up a deal. Ten years ago, you could actually negotiate a discount on some of these watches, which was the … ContinuedThe post How I changed my mind about the Rolex Explorer II (and why it now rarely leaves my wrist…) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
If you’ve been around the watch hobby for a while, NOMOS is one of the brands that will have surely stood out when you first came across it. They’re a unique company for a heap of reasons, but the main appeal is the instantaneous charm that runs through their DNA. It’s not easy to claim … ContinuedThe post Everything you need to know about NOMOS appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
“This watch has generated more interest than any watch we’ve had in stock for a long, long time,” says Tom Jenkinson, a senior watch sales consultant for Xupes, the online site for watches and other collectibles. “It was originally a P.O.A piece, but we were just getting a deluge of inquiries on it to the … ContinuedThe post Who Dares Wins: Rolex teamed up with the SAS to create this unique Explorer II. Now you can buy it… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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