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Longines Introduces Two Luxurious Gold GMTs to their Master Collection Worn & Wound
Longines Introduces Two Luxurious Gold Jan 12, 2024

Longines Introduces Two Luxurious Gold GMTs to their Master Collection

Since its release in 2005, the Master Collection has enjoyed pride-of-place in Longines’ line of watches. With its mix of contemporary appeal and timeless charm, the Master Collection remains a reliable favorite for those looking to enjoy this Swiss watch brand.  And now, Longines has expanded the Master series with two solid gold versions featuring a GMT complication in the aptly named Master Collection GMT. Admirers of the brand can now enjoy the option of either an 18-carat yellow or 18-carat rose gold. With these two new references, Longines is showing us the versatility of these classic silhouettes, allowing a wearer to dress this watch up – or down – to better fit one’s lifestyle.  Sitting at 40mm, this case will give any wrist some presence while the frosted silver dial softens the overall appearance. It’s the small details of this dial, in fact, which really show the attention that Longines has put into the Master Collection. This includes a 24-hour scale in Arabic numerals on the rim, cleverly reversed at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock for convenient second time zone reading. A railroad minute track separates these Arabic numerals from the Roman numerals of the applied gold hour markers. Adding functionality, a discreet date aperture is placed at 6 o’clock. Elegant gold hands mark the hours, minutes, and seconds, while the GMT hand, accentuated in black, aligns with the 24-hour scale numerals for enhanced readability of the second time zone. Both new re...

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Seiko Brings “Prospex Black Series” into Regular Production SJX Watches
Seiko Brings “Prospex Black Series” Jan 12, 2024

Seiko Brings “Prospex Black Series” into Regular Production

After implementing the all-black aesthetic only in limited editions, Seiko has revived the Prospex Black Series but now as part of the standard catalogue.  Based on familiar models from the current lineup – the Prospex Sea “Turtle” diver (SRPK43) and the Prospex Speedtimer solar-powered chronograph (SSC923). Whilst the monochromatic black-on-black palette is a favourite for sports watches, the standout feature of the new pair is the green luminous paint on the hands and indices that has a retro feel, being reminiscent of the luminous radium applied to watch dials for most of the 20th century. Initial thoughts It’s gratifying to know the once limited Black Series is now accessible as part of the regular product line, since it’s an appealing, affordable sports watch. Admittedly this will be disappointing to some owners of past models that were limited editions, but it is not surprising considering the success of the earlier versions from 2017 and 2020. As for the watches themselves, the green Lumibrite on the hands and markers is the key differentiating factor, with the rest of each watch having the same design and dimensions as their standard steel equivalents. A useful extra would have been additional strap or bracelet options for a wider range of looks, particularly since all-black watches are now often paired with high-contrast straps. The Speedtimer is priced at US$700, while the Turtle retails for US$725. Each cost slightly more than the standard steel vers...

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Vanessa Redgrave’s Rolex Reference 5513 Submariner with Explorer Dial: Could it be The Female ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona? - Reprise Quill & Pad
Rolex Reference 5513 Submariner Jan 10, 2024

Vanessa Redgrave’s Rolex Reference 5513 Submariner with Explorer Dial: Could it be The Female ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona? - Reprise

Are there special vintage watch dial variations named after notable women in a vein similar to that of the Paul Newman Rolex Daytona? Nick Gould was wondering just that and researched. Finding a photo of Vanessa Redgrave wearing a Rolex Submariner Reference 5513 with "Explorer" dial in 1966, he ruefully opines that this rare model would sound so much cooler as the Rolex "Vanessa Redgrave" Submariner rather than what collectors call it now: Rolex Reference 5513 Submariner with Explorer dial.

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The Latest Oris Big Crown Pointer Date LE is a Bronze Tribute to an Iconic Cricket Ground Worn & Wound
Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Jan 9, 2024

The Latest Oris Big Crown Pointer Date LE is a Bronze Tribute to an Iconic Cricket Ground

Over the last few years, the world of watches has continued to expand its reach beyond watch enthusiasts. This, in turn, has allowed brands to speak to wider audiences and forge meaningful relationships with celebrities, charities, and more. Oris is no stranger to significant partnerships with a variety of outlets, and its latest Limited Edition tells a particularly unique and historically interesting story in the world of cricket. Introducing the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Father Time Limited Edition. A bit of context: Lord’s Cricket Ground in London is widely considered the “home of cricket”. Established in 1814, it is the oldest cricket stadium known to man and is beloved the world over. The ground’s owners, the Marylebone Cricket Club (or MCC), have partnered with Oris, making the Hölstein, Switzerland based watchmaker the very first official timekeeper over the ground’s two centuries. As a result of this partnership, the Oris branding sits proudly on the famous clock tower and near the iconic Father Time weathervane, after which this new limited edition watch is named. Father Time himself is cast of iron and is seen stooping over cricket stumps as he watches over the passage of time. Now onto the watch: unsurprisingly Oris has chosen to use the Big Crown Pointer Date as the foundation. As Oris’ most famous model, the BCPD has been in constant production since 1938 and has its roots in aviation. However it has since been seen as Oris’ calling card and a...

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Longines Adds a GMT to the Master Collection, in 18k Gold SJX Watches
Longines Adds Jan 4, 2024

Longines Adds a GMT to the Master Collection, in 18k Gold

With recent releases well received, most notably the 190th Anniversary models and Small Seconds featuring engraved Breguet numerals, Longines’ Master Collection now gains a twin time zone offering with the Master Collection GMT, which is only available in 18k gold, for now. With the case in either yellow or rose gold, the GMT stands apart from its more affordable predecessors. It also diverges in terms of design, with applied Roman numerals instead of Breguet numerals. Initial thoughts The latest addition to the line continues the progressive facelifting of the Master Collection that gives existing models a sophisticated style. Though the range already included a GMT, it was in the older livery with a guilloche dial. The new GMT sticks to the classical aesthetic of the Master Collection, though it’s not quite as successful as the facelift applied to the rest of the line-up. Although elaborately done with applied numerals – which are solid gold to match the case – the dial is a bit old fashioned and feels uninspired. This is particularly obvious when compared to its time-only counterparts with their engraved Breguet numerals. That said, applying Breguet numerals to the GMT is a simple matter, and I would not be surprised to see that in the future. Because of the solid gold case, the Master Collection GMT costs US$14,750, which is well beyond the brand’s traditional price segment and where it does well. Even though this is a Longines with features usually found in ...

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Inside Akrivia - Artisanal Manufacturing in Geneva SJX Watches
Rado xically Jan 2, 2024

Inside Akrivia - Artisanal Manufacturing in Geneva

Followers of high-end independent watchmaking are likely familiar with Akrivia and its founder, Rexhep Rexhepi. Akrivia’s work, especially its finishing, has earned widespread acclaim and record auction results. Paradoxically the brand got off to slow start at its founding in 2012. Akrivia only rocketed to prominence with the launch of the Chronomètre Contemporain in 2018 and has been on the ascent ever since. Now just getting into its second decade, Akrivia has achieved a level of success that often proves elusive to upstart independent watchmakers, many of which have come and gone in the past few years. This success is due to numerous factors, but key among them is the brand’s demonstrated ability to evolve and improve. I recently had the opportunity to visit the brand’s workshops in Geneva’s Old Town to see how far Akrivia has come and get a hint of what’s in store for the future. Akrivia today Today, the brand employs 20 staff, up from just 10 in 2021. Considering its annual production of around 40 watches per year, this puts Akrivia in good company among the most artisanal brands in the industry. It would be tempting to look at this headcount growth and predict that production will soon increase, but that’s not the case. While the team of watchmakers has grown slightly – it now stands at eight – most of the added roles are go bring more manufacturing capabilities in-house and accelerate product development, along with a few administrative positions. M...

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Head to Head: Sporty vs Dressy GMT Watches Worn & Wound
Dec 31, 2023

Head to Head: Sporty vs Dressy GMT Watches

The traveler’s watch. The last truly useful sport watch today. The GMT watch has, as much as its sibling the dive watch, remained a cultural icon and a best-seller for brands both big and small. Every collector wants – or at least has considered – a GMT watch of some kind. There is good and bad news to that end. The good news is that watch brands have labored to create GMT watches of all sorts to appeal to every breed of watch enthusiast. The bad news is that money doesn’t grow on trees. Of all the classic watch archetypes, the GMT has always straddled that line between ritzy and rough, and we can separate them into two stylistic buckets: dressy and sporty. While the line between the two is often blurred and the definitions themselves somewhat subjective, we thought it would be fun to see how this useful complication has found its way into watches of all kinds. So without further ado, this is your Sunday Smackdown: GMT Edition. The traveler’s watch. The last truly useful sport watch today. The GMT watch has, as much as its sibling the dive watch, remained a cultural icon and a best-seller for brands both big and small. Every collector wants – or at least has considered – a GMT watch of some kind. There is good and bad news to that end. The good news is that watch brands have labored to create GMT watches of all sorts to appeal to every breed of watch enthusiast. The bad news is that money doesn’t grow on trees. Of all the classic watch archetypes, the GMT h...

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Our 2023 Watches of the Year Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Yes Dec 29, 2023

Our 2023 Watches of the Year

No matter your budget, taste, or experience in the hobby, it seems like the entire watch community is in agreement: it was a great year for watches. Not just for new releases, but for the watch community, for talking about watches, and for being involved in this strange but incredibly fun world.  We asked our team of Editorial staff members and contributors to pick their Watch of the Year. It could be a new release that they own, or don’t own, an addition to the collection, or any watch that spoke to them in 2023. The selections are wonderfully diverse, and speak to the huge variety of watches we were able to collectively experience this year. More than that, they underline vibrancy of the watch world, and seem to point to a movement toward watches that are unique or special in some way.  We had a great time talking to you about watches this year, and we can’t wait to bring you even more from every corner of the watch world in 2024. Happy new year!   Zach Weiss My watch of the year is the Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto. Yes, it came out in 2022, but this was the year I got to wear it…and wear it I did. And I think it also colored the watch world itself in 2023, setting a new standard, showing what brands that were formerly ignored by the industry at large can do. Proof of this was its well-earned GPGH award. Now, I’m working on an owner’s review, so I don’t want to spoil that, but the gist is this: I can’t get over it. It’s a watch that still brings me j...

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Looking Forward - Watchmaking Insiders’ Predictions for 2024 SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Twenty twenty-four might be Dec 29, 2023

Looking Forward - Watchmaking Insiders’ Predictions for 2024

Having looked back on the year that has just been, it’s now time to look ahead to see what 2024 may bring. To conclude the year we turned to notable industry figures to see what they think will unfold over the next 12 months. Looking to gain insights from the breadth of the industry, we posed the question to influential personalities in key segments, from independent watchmaking to luxury brands to movement specialists. Each of these individuals brings a unique perspective on the outlook for 2024. Jean Arnault Director of Watches, Louis Vuitton “Twenty twenty-four might be one of these foundational years that the industry will talk about for the decades to come. Interest rates and the global economic outlook have successfully cooled the frenzy around watches for most brands, and this will continue into 2024. Whether we see a scaled correction or a ‘soft landing’ will depend on Rolex’s management of the situation. Being such a dominant player among retailers, it will be the deciding factor for 2024.” Rexhep Rexhepi Founder, Akrivia “The last recent years of speculation in watchmaking astonished and sometimes frightened me. One of the biggest challenges will be to get back to normal times. I predict that the industry will refocus on enthusiasts and connoisseurs once again, since competition will definitely be fiercer.” Jean Arnault (left), and Rexhep Rexhepi. Image – GPHG and SJX Felix Baumgartner Co-founder, Urwerk “When [Martin Frei and I] started Urwer...

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Arcanaut Unleashes their Upcoming “Experimental” Bonehead and Tiger Sharc Worn & Wound
Ming Experimental” Bonehead Dec 28, 2023

Arcanaut Unleashes their Upcoming “Experimental” Bonehead and Tiger Sharc

If you’ve been following along on the website and podcast over the last several months, you already know about how much I enjoy Arcanaut, the small independent watchmaker based in Denmark. I reviewed my own Arc II Fordite earlier this year, a watch that, when it was all said and done, was likely my most worn of the year. We’ve also covered recent releases that are a bit more straightforward than their dials created with paint drippings from American auto factories. The latest news from Denmark, though, is strange enough that Arcanaut has put their next two pieces in the “Experimental” category, and if the avant-garde nature of their previous work is appealing, these are likely to scratch a similar itch.  The new watches coming to the Arc II platform in the third quarter of next year both incorporate a creative use of materials (the brand’s primary guiding principle) in exciting ways. First out of the gate, we’ve got the Bonehead, named for the marrow-like pattern on the dial. That dial is fully lumed, but that’s not really what makes it interesting. What makes it compelling is the manufacturing process devised by Arcanaut’s James Thompson, which involves combining electric blue discs of lume, aerospace grade aluminum foam, and industrial resin, which Arcanaut has used previously to bind together the non-traditional materials that go into each dial. The end result is a uniquely textured, full lume dial that should be pretty impressive in its final form.  T...

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Sweden’s E.C. Andersson Debuts the Bold (and Very Thin) Mytilus Worn & Wound
Dec 26, 2023

Sweden’s E.C. Andersson Debuts the Bold (and Very Thin) Mytilus

We’ve featured E.C. Andersson, a small watch brand out of Sweden, in our Micro-Brand Digest a few times now. Their latest, however, definitely warrants a longer look. The Mytilus is easily their most ambitious design to date, and serves as an extension of what’s come before as well as a bit of a bolder statement. Described by the brand as “retrofuturistic” in its style, it’s been conceived as a distinctive watch that’s also ultra lightweight and thin. It’s part of a larger crop of new designs that we’re incredibly excited about that offer a real taste of the avant-garde at an approachable price point. While the design and manufacturing of the Mytilus is surely quite complex in practice, the concept is fairly straightforward and easy to understand. The “case” is a milled block of solid aluminum and this central component is just 4.1mm thick. The sapphire crystal has a deep box design and pulls double duty as a bezel that holds the unit together. The brand says the crystal is attached to the case directly via six screws, and that total of twenty-one gaskets are used on the Mytilus to ensure water resistance (it’s rated to 60 meters, which is pretty good for such a thin mechanical watch). With the crystal attached, the total thickness of the Mytilus comes in at 9.5mm (the case is 38mm wide). This is a time only watch with a simple, sandwich style dial with lume seen from a lower layer at the cardinal positions. Like the case and caseback, the dial is als...

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Gen-Z Has Discovered Snoopy, But Watch Collectors Got Here First Worn & Wound
Omega featured him Dec 26, 2023

Gen-Z Has Discovered Snoopy, But Watch Collectors Got Here First

Snoopy of ‘Peanuts’ fame has flown planes in World War I, gone to space, and been a baseball star-now he’s taken on a new role as a fashion and lifestyle icon for Gen Zers. In a viral moment that has come upon us rather unexpectedly (as these things always do) members of a younger generation seem to have discovered the iconic beagle all at once.  Thanks to his worldly, casual confidence and enormous puffy coat, Snoopy has reached a level of popularity he probably hasn’t seen since ‘Peanuts’ was in print. To which the watch community says: welcome aboard the Snoopy train, we’ve been here for quite some time. For all the new Snoopy fans out there, here’s a brief rundown of the history of the relationship between comics’ most famous dog and the watch industry, along with some of the best Snoopy watches you can pick up.   View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Ouch, Right In The Childhood (@ouchrightinthechildhood) Snoopy has graced the dials of watches since the 1950s, but his popularity among watch nerds has skyrocketed (pun intended, you’ll see in a second) since Omega featured him on the Speedmaster for the first time in 2003 in recognition of the watch brand being award NASA’s Silver Snoopy Award. The award was given in recognition of the key role the Apollo 13 astronauts’ Speedmasters played in the calculations they made to get home safely. The backstory for the watch, the difficulty in obtaining one of these limited edition pieces, a...

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The F.P. Journe London Boutique is Officially Open SJX Watches
F.P. Journe London Boutique Dec 22, 2023

The F.P. Journe London Boutique is Officially Open

As we reported earlier in the year, the F.P. Journe boutique in London at 33 Bruton St is now open. Perfectly placed in the heart of Mayfair, with Berkeley Square at one end and New Bond St at the other, the space used to belong to English gunmaker Holland & Holland, which was once owned by Chanel, an investor in F.P. Journe. We have been lucky enough to go down and see the new store for ourselves, and chat with the friendly team led by Shawn Mehta (pictured above centre alongside Francois-Paul Journe and Amelie Lefevere, chief executive of F.P. Journe). With an aesthetic that will be familiar to anyone who has stepped into one of the brand’s other stores, the space is thoughtful segmented into three parts, with the plan laid out by Mr Journe, who attends to every detail himself. The main area at the front contains the displays of the brand’s watches along with a traditional watchmakers bench and portraits of historical watchmakers that have inspired Mr Journe, including Antide Janvier and Abraham-Louis Breguet. Next sits the “heart” of the boutique according to its staff, the bar area. Stocked with F.P. Journe’s own wine made by Chateau Seguin, it is a fantastic space for discussion. Overlooking this convivial area is a frosted depiction of a Resonance movement that is actually the drinks cabinet. Finally, at the back is a private area with seating where clients consultations take place. A dinner was held to launch the boutique, attended by clients and friends o...

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Legendary Marvel Comics Illustrator Adam Kubert on his Forthcoming Citizen x Marvel Collaboration Worn & Wound
Citizen x Marvel Collaboration If Dec 21, 2023

Legendary Marvel Comics Illustrator Adam Kubert on his Forthcoming Citizen x Marvel Collaboration

If you’re a fan of Marvel Comics or the Marvel Cinematic Universe, then you’re in for a treat, as Adam Kubert – true comic book royalty – has established a relationship with Citizen, illustrating Marvel characters on watch dials. As watch enthusiasts, I know you won’t shy away from a history lesson. So, before I launch into my interview with Adam, it’s important to understand the impact the Kubert family has had for over 70 years in comics. The prolific Joe Kubert, Adam’s father (who we lost back in 2012), began illustrating comics in the 1940s. He became renowned for his work, especially with DC Comics characters like Sgt. Rock and Hawkman. Joe Kubert was also the founder of The Kubert School in Dover, New Jersey that is still the only accredited school dedicated entirely to cartooning. The institution is responsible for churning out many of the great illustrators we have today. Adam Kubert and his brother, Andy Kubert, went on to become staples in the comic book industry, as well as teachers at The Kubert School. Adam and Andy’s niece, Katie Kubert, was an editor for both Marvel and DC Comics, and Andy’s daughter Emma Kubert is also a comic book illustrator. In essence, not only does talent for art and storytelling run in the blood, but for decades they’ve instilled that creativity in others.  Adam has been in comics for five decades, illustrating comics for 35 years, the last 30 with Marvel, and has been hands-on with all our favorite characters: W...

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Recapping the Worn & Wound x Carryology Austin Meetup Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s Packs abounded Dec 20, 2023

Recapping the Worn & Wound x Carryology Austin Meetup

Whether it’s watches or packs, these items are seen by enthusiasts as core pieces of kit for daily adventures. Both work best when they’re rugged, versatile, and well-built-and both Worn & Wound and Carryology are dedicated to providing their readers with in-depth reviews and news around the latest in watches and packs. When we discovered that we were fans of each other’s publications-it became immediately clear that partnering in multiple ways would only strengthen each other’s audiences. Last weekend’s meetup in Austin, TX only proved that point more emphatically. Readers from both publications converged on one of the city’s most exciting new distilleries: Fierce Whiskers. This location served as the perfect backdrop for enthusiasts to connect, grab a custom cocktail or two, and show off their watches and packs.   Regardless of whether your primary interest was what’s on your wrist or what’s on your back-it was immediately evident that these enthusiasts were cut from the same cloth. Watches ranged from robust divers like Sinns and Seikos to refined, go anywhere, do anything daily drivers like Rolex Oyster Perpetuals and Grand Seikos. Packs abounded and came in the form of everything from a wide array of Carryology collabs to high-end custom builds. There were also a group of enthusiasts who came with both amazing watches on-wrist, as well wildly cool backpacks and other carry solutions. For them, this event was a mind-melting meld of two of their a...

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The Sophomore Effort from Indie Havid Nagan Modernizes a Classic Complication Worn & Wound
Havid Nagan Dec 14, 2023

The Sophomore Effort from Indie Havid Nagan Modernizes a Classic Complication

In the sea of vintage-inspired, sport-watch focused microbrands – with which there is nothing wrong, of course – are a select few brands who seem to have stumbled upon an aesthetic that is uniquely theirs. One such example is Havid Nagan whose 2021 debut model was aptly named HN00. We were impressed with it and covered it here, and today Havid Nagan is back with the follow-up to its opening shot: Introducing the HN01 Lucine, Havid Nagan’s interpretation of, and ode to, the moonphase. So what changed and what hasn’t? The closest thing the two watches share are their cases: The HN01 titanium cushion-esque case keeps the same 40.2mm diameter as its predecessor but has slimmed down from 11.6mm thick to only 10.2mm. Its profile has also been massaged slightly to better accentuate its profile. This is even more impressive when you consider the effort required to fit an entirely new complication module inside. The HN01 Lucine’s powertrain is a Chronode base movement that has been heavily modified to include a moonphase module (which itself has been improved to err only one day from every 2.5 years to every 11.6 years). The module itself, which displays the moon at 12 o’clock, contains two photorealistic moons that float on a “mystery” style transparent sapphire wheel. Havid Nagan has also taken it upon themselves to decorate the movement with hand-applied anglage and additional perlage clouds on the mainplate (both sides) and skeletonized bridges. There is also a...

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REVIEW: Hands On With The Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M “Summer Blue” WatchAdvice
Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M Dec 14, 2023

REVIEW: Hands On With The Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M “Summer Blue”

The 75th Anniversary Seamaster Professional Diver 300M “Summer Blue” may just be the perfect watch for Summer and we’ve taken it out to see if it really is. What We Love The gradient blue dialComfort factor of the rubber strapWears smaller than stats suggest What We Don’t Colourway could limit it’s versatility across the yearThis version on the bracelet, get the rubber!No display caseback on this version Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for money: 8.5/10Wearability: 9.5/10Design: 9/10Build quality: 9/10 This year marks the 75th Anniversary of the Omega Seamaster, and to celebrate, the brand released the “Summer Blue” Collection in one of the most iconic locations, Mykonos Greece. In a unique move, Omega released a Summer Blue variant of each watch in the Seamaster lineup (which you can read our coverage of here) designed to mimic the Aegean Sea, and the deeper the watch’s depth rating, the darker the blue. It’s a cool concept. The Omega 75th Anniversary Summer Blue Seamaster Collection Now it’s Summer here in Australia, it felt timely to take possibly the best-known, and most popular of the Seamster collection, the Diver 300M on rubber strap out and about to see if this is “THE” watch for the Summer. Initial Thoughts The Omega Seamaster Diver isn’t an unfamiliar watch for me. I’ve now owned two of them: an original Seamaster Diver James Bond Quartz, and then more recently, the current SMP300 with the black dial and bezel. You can read my Owners Perspe...

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Bremont’s Latest Made in Collaboration with Martin-Baker is a Stealthy Pilot’s GMT Worn & Wound
Bremont s Latest Made Dec 13, 2023

Bremont’s Latest Made in Collaboration with Martin-Baker is a Stealthy Pilot’s GMT

You know when you run across something so rad that you realize “wow, I never knew I wanted that, but I totally do!” What if I told you there’s a watch that’s been made in collaboration with an iconic ejection seat manufacturer, and the watch itself has been tested to the same extremes as said ejection seats: vibration, extreme endurance, live ejection, altitude, and aircraft carrier deck testing? Well, Bremont and Martin-Baker brought life to a limited edition watch that expands on Bremont’s popular MB line - the MBIII Stealth is born. Limited to only 50 pieces, the MBIII Stealth is an almost totally blacked-out watch that would curl the toes of any secret agent. The case itself is 43mm of jet black DLC coated stainless steel with a knurled aluminum barrel, that pulls from the design elements of Martin-Baker ejection seats, and matches with the knurling on the duel crowns: one crown for setting and winding your watch, and the other is for the inner rotating 24-hour bezel. The MBIII Stealth has GMT and date functionality, made possible through Bremont’s chronometer certified BE-93-2AV automatic movement. The movement itself is anti-shock with a faraday ring that makes it both shock resistant and anti-magnetic, and it can all be seen through a smoked sapphire exhibition caseback that adds to the jet-setting super spy motif of the watch.  In fact, the only area in which any color can be found is underneath the sapphire crystal on the dial, whose Arabic numerals...

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EDC Picks for the Holidays Worn & Wound
Dec 13, 2023

EDC Picks for the Holidays

One of the challenges of gift-giving is striking the balance between sentimentality and practicality. Today we will be focusing on the latter by highlighting a few products that have a wide appeal and can find great use in everyday life. This Chronicle is all about EDC items that can be stocking-stuffers or just nice small gifts. They are all handy, useful, and under $100. Check out these and all our other EDC items right here in the Windup Watch Shop! One of the challenges of gift-giving is striking the balance between sentimentality and practicality. Today we will be focusing on the latter by highlighting a few products that have a wide appeal and can find great use in everyday life. This Chronicle is all about EDC items that can be stocking-stuffers or just nice small gifts. They are all handy, useful, and under $100. Check out these and all our other EDC items right here in the Windup Watch Shop! The post EDC Picks for the Holidays appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Experts and Collectors Weigh in on the Return of Universal Genève Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet among them Universal Genève Dec 13, 2023

Experts and Collectors Weigh in on the Return of Universal Genève

Early yesterday morning, news broke in the watch world that was both surprising, and felt inevitable. Universal Genève, the highly regarded and historic Swiss brand that has been effectively dormant for years, will be revived and relaunched by the same ownership team currently steering the ship at Breitling. While the news of Universal finally getting a high profile relaunch isn’t exactly shocking (reviving heritage brands shuttered during the Quartz Crisis has been a favorite pastime in the watch industry over the last decade), we weren’t expecting the Breitling connection. The news (and reaction to it) speaks both to the great affection the community feels for the Universal Genève brand, and to the strength and financial turnaround of Breitling under Georges Kern’s tenure.  Universal Genève has a long and rich history, and has grown significantly in esteem in recent years. They were part of an explosion of interest in vintage watches that began more than ten years ago, but unlike other brands that benefited from increased attention on historic vintage pieces (Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet among them), Universal Genève doesn’t exist as a modern watchmaker in a meaningful way. For that reason, there’s always been a mystique to the brand that can’t really be replicated. We can, and do, compare vintage versions of Submariners, Daytonas, and Royal Oaks to their modern equivalents, and can thus relate to these watches through a modern context or l...

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Roger Dubuis Turns to “Ice and Fire” for the Knights of the Round Table SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Turns Dec 13, 2023

Roger Dubuis Turns to “Ice and Fire” for the Knights of the Round Table

Now the signature watch of Roger Dubuis’ modern-day offerings, the Knights of the Round Table “Titanium Damascus” is inspired by the Arthurian fable. The latest edition is centred on the theme of “ice and fire” – the reference to Game of Thrones is unmissable – and is surprisingly artisanal despite the ultra-contemporary aesthetic. Decorated with blue Murano glass and Limoges porcelain, the dial has 12 knights around a frozen lake – a miniature diorama depicting the knights confronting imminent peril emerging from the waters’ depths – and a case made of a pattern-welded titanium alloy. Initial thoughts The “ice and fire” edition is no doubt catered for a niche audience – and at 45 mm few can wear it easily – but still has a unique appeal. Moreover, it departs from the modern, skeletonised style that’s characteristic of the brand’s automotive-inspired timepieces. It merges artisanal decoration and modern watchmaking – it is big and bold but boasts unexpectedly intricate detailing. The watch encapsulates the Roger Dubuis “hyper horology” ethos in both design and construction, while the dial and movement (which is hallmarked with the Poincon de Geneve) stay faithful to traditional watchmaking and decoration. This Knights of the Round Table is priced at approximately US$374,000, putting it in the same price range as other editions in the series. It is also priced similarly to comparably extravagant watches from the likes of Jacob & Co., bu...

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Insight: The Breguet Cal. 728 of the Type XX Chronograph SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet cal 4401/4409 Dec 12, 2023

Insight: The Breguet Cal. 728 of the Type XX Chronograph

With roots in 1950s French military-issue chronographs, the modern-day Type XX Chronographe was originally released in the mid-1990s and is now’s trademark pilot’s chronograph – and also the brand’s entry-level complication. Originally utilising Lemania-based movement in prior generations, the Type XX was entirely revamped, inside and out, with the unveiling of the Type XX Chronograph 2057 and 2067 earlier this year. While the aesthetics have been revised, the most notable upgrade in the new-generation Type XX is a brand-new movement, the cal. 728. The cal. 728 is a high-frequency movement running at 36,000 beats per hour that employs a novel patent-pending flying mechanism as well as an inventive reset system. The release of a completely new, in-house chronograph movement is uncommon, especially one with novel innovations that went under the radar. In fact, the cal. 728 is arguably one of the most sophisticated and advanced modern-day chronograph movements, putting it alongside the Audemars Piguet cal. 4401/4409 and Rolex cal. 4131. As a result, the cal. 728 deserves a closer look. Controlled return The cal. 728 is actually two related movements: the cal. 728 is an automatic, flyback-chronograph movement with three registers for elapsed seconds, minutes, and hours that is inside the three-counter Type XX ref. 2067, while the cal. 7281 is a two-counter version of the calibre found in the military-inspired Type XX ref. 2057. The most novel component of the cal. 728 ...

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Archimede Reaches to the Past with their Latest Vintage Inspired Pilot’s Watch Worn & Wound
Ming ly generous amounts Dec 7, 2023

Archimede Reaches to the Past with their Latest Vintage Inspired Pilot’s Watch

Everybody loves a nice surprise. Right in time for the holiday season, Archimede is releasing a special capsule of their so-called “Vintage Edition” watches. As a callback to an older collection called Classic Retro, these watches are limited in number and designed to stay as true as possible to how a German-made Archimede pilot or field watch would have looked in the last century. There are five variants (one of which is already sold out as of this writing), and each brings its own old world charm. The Archimede Vintage Edition is probably most closely characterized as a pilot’s watch thanks to its legible dial and large onion-shaped crown, but you wouldn’t be out of line calling it a field watch either. Its 42mm stainless steel case is manufactured by ICKLER in Pforzheim, Germany and is sandblasted all the way around, which gives it a matte finish. The case is 51mm lug to lug and only 9.8 mm thick. The aforementioned crown is large and finished for maximum tactility, while the dial is clearly designed for optimal legibility. A subdivided railroad minute track lives on the outer edge of the dial; in the center, cathedral hands are the focal point. The Arabic numerals at each hour are large and squared off – distinctly Art Deco. Hands and hour markers all receive seemingly generous amounts of lume of varying colors depending on your configuration. On three of the versions in this collection, a date window is discreetly tucked in at three. The other two references...

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Breitling Introduces the Affordable(ish) Top Time Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Dec 4, 2023

Breitling Introduces the Affordable(ish) Top Time Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon

Mostly made up of no-frills, vintage-inspired chronographs, Breitling’s Top Time collection now gets one of the brand’s most complicated offerings. The Breitling Top Time B21 Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon is inspired by the livery of 1960s American sports cars like the Ford Mustang, while its mechanics are courtesy of movement specialist La Joux-Perret, which constructed the B21 movement that combines a tourbillon and chronograph with column wheel. Initial thoughts Breitling’s newest launch goes far beyond the brand’s typical price range, but it is a chronograph with tourbillon, making it relative affordable given the complications. In fact, the combination of a chronograph with tourbillon is an uncommon pairing regardless of price. The Top Time B21 Chevrolet Corvette The watch retains the usual retro-inspired Top Time styling, which is attractive. The symmetry of the dial adds to its appeal, as do details like the mirrored register and tourbillon aperture, both shaped like a squircle. While the green and blue dials have a conventional metal finish, the dial on the Chevrolet Corvette edition is burl wood veneer, a reference to the wood steering wheel and dash of the 1960s Corvette. The wood dial and black ceramic case are an unusual combination, but make the Corvette version the most interesting of the trio. The downside of the watch is its size. The case is either 43 mm or 44 mm (depending on the material), which is acceptable, but 15.4 mm thick – that’...

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The Aquastar Benthos Returns As The Heritage One Limited Edition Two Broke Watch Snobs
Dec 1, 2023

The Aquastar Benthos Returns As The Heritage One Limited Edition

With more than a few releases under their belt since the brand's formal re-launch in 2020, Aquastar has had our attention for a while now. They currently offer a mix of faithful re-editions as well as new models inspired by previous designs. But so far, dive watch nerds have been curious about another Aquastar diver lurking deep within the shadows of dive watch history.

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