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Time+Tide
Not only does the M-10 do away with a typical method of telling time, but it also does away with a typical automatic winding system.The post Hublot slides into the future with the MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Live now – Grail Watch 9.1: the Moritz Grossmann x Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 Stainless Steel ‘German Silver’. Our latest Grail Watch sees us return to Germany’s watchmaking heartland, Glashütte, and the expert watchmakers at Moritz Grossman. The moniker for this elegant watch comes from the dial, which is made from the durable alloy of […]
Monochrome
The 1970s are laureled by many to be the greatest era of motorsports to date. All fields of racing went through revolutions in technology, and the top drivers achieved rock-star-like allure like never seen before. Names like James Hunt, Niki Lauda, Jackie Stewart, Emerson Fittipaldi and many others graced the sport and pushed it to […]
SJX Watches
Bulgari updates its signature Bulgari Bulgari wristwatch by reverting to the original format (almost). Debuted in 1977 as the brand’s first wristwatch, the model was designed by Gerald Genta, who conceived a flat bezel engraved with the brand name, reputedly inspired by ancient Roman coins. Though the model has remained in the collection size in a variety of styles, the latest version returns to the simplicity of the original, with a minimalist dial and compact, 38 mm case available only in either 18k yellow or rose gold for now. Initial thoughts The Bulgari Bulgari remains the Italian jeweller’s quintessential wristwatch, remaining recognisable despite having evolved into a multitude of iterations over the years. The appeal of the design is its distinctive style despite the simplicity, something that the latest version returns to. The new Bulgari Bulgari has a minimalist dial featuring a date at three (which purists might frown at), and rendered more wearable with a diameter of 38 mm. This scaled-down case no doubt reflects a trend found across other brands, many of which are moving towards cases in the range of 35 mm to 39 mm, often in a vintage-inspired style. Whilst the new case size is almost ideal, the date window gets in the way of the minimalist design. At the same time, an upgraded movement would have made it more appeal. While in-house, the long-in-tooth BVL 191 has a disappointingly short power reserve of 42 hours, as opposed to the norm of three days for n...
Fratello
Yes, this is a hands-on with the new Rolex Daytona in platinum, the ref. 126506. But guess what? There also was an “old” platinum Daytona ref. 116506 with an ice-blue, diamond-set dial at hand for some live comparisons. Two platinum Daytonas at HQ at once - is that too much of a good thing? Nope, […] Visit Hands-On With Two Of The Most Desired Watches In The World: The Old And The New Rolex Daytona In Platinum to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Swedish blue mussels are not the typical material used to make a dial, but that's what gives the Arcanaut Arc II Havender its unique color. And there's more that makes this watch special.
Monochrome
The Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry has just released their export statistic for 2023 – December ended the year on a positive note with exports up 5.5%. For the year as a whole, the industry exports recorded an increase of 7.6% compared to 2022, reaching their highest level ever at CHF 26.7 billion for […]
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. is back with another Streamliner to kick off the year. The Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade sports a dial crafted from the mineral stone – mined in the American state – and a rose gold case, while retaining the other elements from the original Streamliner Tourbillon with a Vantablack dial released in 2022. Initial thoughts Like most mineral stones, jade has a natural pattern that varies across examples. As each piece of jade has a pattern that’s slightly different from the next, no two dials are exactly the same. This unique variance is one of the key attractions of natural stone dials. Here it is paired with rose gold, a combination that works particularly well. Because it is identical in size to the earlier Streamliner Tourbillon, it also wears well. The 40 mm case sits well on my 6.5 in wrist, being neither too big nor too small thanks to the lug-less case design. This is a pricey watch in absolute terms, with a retail of CHF 109,000. That said, the value proposition is actually decent. The comparable Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon in pink gold, for instance, costs almost double. While Moser is a niche brand compared to establishment names, it offers watches that are relatively more unusual, while being comparable in overall quality. The only downside of this is arguably the edition size, which at 100 is substantial for a watch of this nature. Moser has been steadily increasing the variety and quantity of its high-end Streamliner models...
Teddy Baldassarre
One of the most enduring associations between a world-famous star and a legendary timepiece is the one between Elvis Presley and the world's first electric watch, the Hamilton Ventura. A bold horological gamble when it debuted in 1957, the Ventura is now a mainstay of Hamilton's sprawling portfolio of watch families, and the influence of the King of Rock 'n' Roll on its modern incarnations continues to this day. Read on to discover more about the Ventura and the musical icon who made it famous. Origins: The World’s First Electronic Watch (1957) Founded in Lancaster, Pennsylvania in 1892, during an era in which the United States was a world leader in timepiece production, the Hamilton Watch Company has played a key role in American watchmaking and innovation throughout the 19th and 20th Centuries - even though the company itself migrated its production to Switzerland in 1969 and became part of the Swiss Swatch Group in 1984. By the early 1950s, Hamilton joined other watchmakers, in the United States and around the world, in the quest to conquer the newest frontier of portable timekeeping – making a wristwatch with a fully electric movement. It was Hamilton’s U.S.-based competitor, Elgin, which originally took the lead in such a project, along with the family-owned French watchmaker Lip. Elgin’s “Watch of Tomorrow,” which was unveiled as a prototype in Chicago on March 19, 1952, was powered by Caliber 725, a movement with no mainspring or winding mechani...
Monochrome
The connection between classic cars and Chopard isn’t to be demonstrated anymore. Beyond the brand’s co-CEO passion for vintage automobiles, the brand has been associated with the emblematic Mille Miglia race since 1988. In the frame of this partnership, Chopard developed a dedicated collection of racing chronographs, with now 35 years of history under the […]
Worn & Wound
From creating the world’s first automatic chronograph to creating the first quartz watch, Seiko is known for its cutting edge and revolutionary timepieces. In 2001, Seiko decided to have some fun and further encourage a culture of experimentation by starting the Seiko Power Design Project, an annual opportunity for Seiko designers to, as Seiko puts it, “deeply explore the essence of watches in a style different from their regular work and to generate innovative outputs.” Each year, designers are given a different theme, with past years tackling things like the neighborhoods or districts of Tokyo or more abstract concepts, such as “rebirth” and “fascination.” After its discontinuation in 2009, Seiko relaunched the project in 2023. This year’s Power Design Project has delivered another crop of unique watches under the theme of “incredibly specialized watches.” The standout of the collection is the Ambidextrous, a watch that can be worn on the left hand or the right-with it appearing a different color depending on which way it’s facing. Designer Kento Ito accomplished the optical illusion with a steel case painted black on one half and a dial painted with black and white stripes that trick your eye into thinking the dial is white or black depending on the viewing perspective. Hour, minute, and second hands extend past the center of the dial, with one half black and the other white to complete the illusion. It’s the sort of fun trick that would have y...
Monochrome
An exceptional collaboration between renowned Swiss abstract artist Olivier Mosset and watchmaker Louis Erard results in a minimalist black-on-black model destined to become a sought-after collector’s piece. Translating the artist’s abstract, reductionist codes into the miniature canvas of a watch, the Louis Erard Regulator flaunts the monochromatic palette of the rebellious Swiss artist. Produced in […]
Worn & Wound
For years we’ve been calling for watch brands in every category to embrace color, and to give us more than the standard array of white/black/blue when it comes to dial variants. And for the most part, we’ve reached a point where most watchmakers are providing consumers with a healthy choice of dial variants beyond the standard. A new release from Maurice Lacroix, however, has me wondering if case color is the next frontier. The new Aikon PVD collection, a small series of just two watches, has the brand’s popular contemporary sports watch getting a PVD coating. One in gunmetal gray (admittedly, not super uncommon) and the other in a metallic shade of dark blue. The Aikon so often spoken about as a far less expensive alternative to the Royal Oak that it’s hard not to think of AP’s Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in blue ceramic when considering the blue PVD Aikon. Obviously there are enormous differences. The aforementioned Royal Oak QP is, by all accounts, one of the most sought after watches in the world, full stop. The Aikon has a cult following, but it’s nowhere near the cultural touchstone of the Royal Oak. And the AP is complicated, and the Maurice Lacroix is time only. But still, from across the room (way, way across the room) the Aikon can play tricks on you – it has a similar silhouette and is a watch in a similar style as the Royal Oak, and now you can have one in blue, if you’d like. The blue PVD version of the Aikon measures 39mm in diameter, whi...
Monochrome
Nearly half a century ago, in 1975, Bulgari embarked on a horological voyage that would forever alter the watch design landscape. With only a few watch creations bearing its name, Bulgari showed opulence by gifting 100 gold digital display watches to its most esteemed clients. This bold yet elegantly simple timepiece christened Bulgari Roma, encapsulated […]
SJX Watches
Hublot’s flagship launch at LVMH Watch Week 2024 is the MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System, an enormous and outlandishly complicated wristwatch that takes a novel approach to each of its key functions: telling the time, winding, and regulation. The time is indicated by rolling cylinders, while the movement is regulated by an inclined flying tourbillon, and the mainsprings wound by a novel mechanism that relies on the linear motion of twin sliding weights. All the mechanical intricacy is visible under a panoramic, wraparound sapphire crystal curved on three different planes. Initial Thoughts Although Hublot is best known for its simpler models like the Classic Fusion, and sometimes gets flak for the basic movements used in those watches, the brand has long specialises in intricately-mechanical complications, most notably the MP-05 LaFerrari with a movement shaped like an automobile engine and the MP-07 with a 40-day power reserve. The MP-10 continues the series in the same oversized, hyper-modern format. The movement combines several unusual complications that have been found elsewhere, but never altogether. These include the cylindrical time display and inclined tourbillon, but more notably the linear winding mechanism. This is probably the most dynamic complication in the watch, since the twin weights on each side of the case will slide up and down with the motion of the wrist. Winding a movement with sliding weights has been tried several times in the past, includin...
Fratello
The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo isn’t a watch that really needs a lot of color to stand out. Its extremely flat and geometric design already makes it one of the most original watches to wear. However, for this year’s LVMH Watch Week, Bvlgari is launching two colorful versions of its 10-year-old icon. The first is a […] Visit Bvlgari Launches Two Octo Finissimo Models At LVMH Watch Week - One In Yellow Gold, The Other In 904L Steel to read the full article.
SJX Watches
With Daniel Roth’s revival having become official last year, the brand has just taken the covers off the prototype of the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription at LVMH Watch Week 2024. Retaining the style and dimensions of its 1990s inspiration, the Tourbillon Souscription is, however, an entirely new creation in mechanical terms, with the DR001 movement inside having been developed specifically for it by Geneva complications specialist La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). Initial thoughts The prototype of the Tourbillon Souscription arrives with subtle refinements compared to the images released last year. The aesthetics largely replicate the design of the 1990s originals, which was the brand’s goal from the beginning, at least for this opening act in its revival. Where the Tourbillon Souscription does better than the original is in the execution and mechanics. The guilloche dial is evidently top quality and also on a solid-gold base. More notably, the recessed area around the tourbillon, which is the actually the base plate, is finished with Côtes de Genève. On the originals this area was unfinished except for a rudimentary micro-blasting. But the calibre within is a more substantive achievement. The DR001 movement was conceived for this watch (though perhaps borrowing elements from LFT’s existing constructions) with aesthetics and traditional detailing in mind, explaining elements like the black-polished steel cock and linear winding click. In contrast, the originals relie...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
New for 2024, TAG Heuer has announced another model that makes use of their Glassbox design while calling back to the Heuer Dato references of the past.
Worn & Wound
For this year’s LVMH Watch Week, Hublot has unveiled their latest collaboration with the artist Richard Orlinskli, a pair of limited edition tourbillons in pop-art inspired shades with dramatically skeletonized dials. The Hublot partnership with Orlinski goes back to 2017, and during the ensuing years the Swiss watch brand and French contemporary artist have developed a bona fide collection within a collection. The Orlinski pieces, whether they’re to your taste or not, are so clearly connected to the artist that they are immediately recognizable, often using bold colors and prominent facets at oblique angles, a style that is a clear extension of his sculpture work. The new Classic Fusion Tourbillon Orlinski is full of familiar ideas from previous collaborations and Hublot mainstays, but pulled together into something that feels entirely new. The new collaboration starts with a 45mm Classic Fusion case in either yellow of sky blue ceramic, but true to form with the Orlinski watches, Hublot has given the artist the opportunity to shape and mold the case to his taste, adding the contours and facets that make the pieces so identifiable as “Orlinskis” to begin with. It’s uncommon for watch brands to give their collaborating partners this level of freedom, but it’s something we’ve seen from Hublot not just with Orlinksi, but in their work with tattoo artist Maxime Plescia-Buchi as well. Say what you will about Hublot, but they deserve credit for allowing the arti...
Monochrome
To celebrate the 60th anniversary of the iconic Carrera chronograph last year, TAG Heuer unveiled the Carrera Glassbox and a 42mm Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon, a timepiece equally characterised by seamlessly integrated domed sapphire crystal. Inspired by the domed hesalite crystals found on early Carrera models, this watch with refined ergonomics presented a distinct and clean […]
Worn & Wound
In partnership with longtime brand ambassador Boomer Esiason, Breitling is launching an all-new Chronomat B01 42 Super Bowl LVIII Edition, with proceeds to benefit the Boomer Esiason Foundation. Boomer and his wife Cheryl established this foundation when they learned of their son Gunnar’s diagnosis of cystic fibrosis in 1993. It is dedicated to being the greatest enemy of this disease and in the past three decades it has contributed crucial financial backing in pursuing a future where all impacted by CF can savor life devoid of its symptoms. Having played in the NFL from 1984 to 1997, Boomer’s accolades on the gridiron include the NFL MVP award in 1998, NFL Man of the Year in 1995, First-team All-Pro in 1988 and Pro Bowl in 1986, 1988, 1989 and 1993. He was also awarded the Cincinnati Bengals Ring of Honor. Today Boomer can be found on The NFL Today on CBS, where he appears as anl analyst. His partnership with Breitling dates to 1995.. What sets this Breitling Chronomat apart from the standard line is the Super Bowl LVIII logo on the case back and its limited nature – there are just 58 individually numbered pieces. This 42mm chronograph is entirely made of 18 karat red gold, with a dark blue dial and black subdials. It will come on either a matching 18 karat red gold Rouleaux bracelet or black Rouleaux inspired rubber strap. Powering this piece is Breitling’s in-house B01 chronograph movement, which is COSC certified, as are all Breitling watches, and has a power...
Monochrome
Over the years, Bulgari has released various iterations of the Octo Finissimo Automatic, showcasing the brand’s willingness to experiment with diverse materials and textures. Each subsequent model breathed new life into its appearance, unveiling a captivating and distinct aesthetic. The brand also improved the Octo Finissimo Automatic series, notably increasing water resistance from the inaugural […]
Monochrome
Jack Heuer’s chronograph designs are revered as iconic and exemplary, laying the foundation for contemporary TAG Heuer collections that adhere to his fundamental principles and approach to watchmaking. As we embark on a new year, TAG Heuer presents a new timepiece inspired by the second-generation Carrera Dato 45 ref. 3147 from 1968, showcasing the successful […]
Monochrome
Zenith once again demonstrates its mastery of blending a contemporary collection with historically inspired timepieces, and the latest addition, the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar, is poised to receive well-deserved acclaim. In an impressive feat, the Le Locle-based manufacture introduces six new references, showcasing the beloved calendar complication alongside the high-frequency chronograph – a combination not […]
Fratello
Zenith has been very consciously adding new models to its Chronomaster Sport lineup. Last year, the brand released the first two models with a stainless steel bezel, which looked very nice. Additionally, Zenith released the Aaron Rodgers limited edition. Besides having a green dial and bezel, it was also the first Chronomaster Sport with Arabic […] Visit Zenith Extends The Chronomaster Sport Line With A Green-Dial Model In Stainless Steel And A Gem-Set Version In Rose Gold to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Zenith revisits one of its signature historical models with the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar. It is the Chronomaster Original we know and love, but with a twist: the addition of the day, month, and moon phase while maintaining the same dimensions as the chronograph-only model. Powered by the latest-generation El Primero 3610 with “lightning” seconds, the Triple Calendar makes its debut in three colourways, white, grey and a boutique-exclusive green. Initial thoughts Although popular among enthusiasts, the Chronomaster Original is arguably undiscovered territory for many because it has been overshadowed by Chronomaster Sport, a watch famous for resembling the Rolex Daytona. However, the Chronomaster Original offers better aesthetics and proportions compared to its slightly derivative Sports sibling. The compact 38 mm case sits comfortably on most wrists, while having enough presence to feel like a larger sports watch. Compared to the standard Chronometer Original, the Triple Calendar adds a few complications into the mix and evokes the well known vintage original. Importantly, it is not only a vintage remake since it utilises the latest-generation El Primero movement with a “lighting” central seconds. The Triple Calendar is, however, pricey. It costs US$13,400 on a calfskin strap and a bit more on a stainless steel bracelet. That’s about 30% more than the base model Chronomaster Original, which feels like a lot for simple-calendar functions. That said, th...
Time+Tide
Be it occult demons or tanks, leave it to Filipino microbrand Makina to come up with a unique design inspiration.The post The Andras is devilishly handsome as Makina hit their stride appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Two years after the Tonda PF, a commercial hit for the previously low-key brand, Parmigiani Fleurier has diversified its lineup of sports watches with the Tonda PF Sport. Replacing the Tonda GT as the brand’s entry-level sports watch, the Tonda PF Sport has a cleaner, bolder aesthetic compared to the Tonda PF. The Tonda PF Sport is available as either a chronograph, or a time-and-date automatic. The standout model is the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph, which is equipped with the PF070, an integrated chronograph movement with impressive features, including a high-frequency, free-sprung balance running at 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz), double barrels, as well as the requisite column wheel and vertical clutch expected of a modern calibre – all contained in a package under 7 mm high. Initial thoughts My first in-person encounter with Parmigiani’s sports watch was in 2021 when the brand launched the Tonda PF amidst the integrated-bracelet-sports-watch craze during the pandemic. Countless brands were trying to replicate the success of the Royal Oak and Nautilus, so it seemed like Parmigiani was just one of many trying to do the same thing. However, when I got an opportunity to examine the Tonda PF in person during Geneva Watch Days that year, it struck me as something different, rather than a derivative product. Even though the Tonda PF was clearly an integrated-bracelet sports watch, it was not like the others in both style and detail. The Tonda PF Sport Chronograph is obvious...
Worn & Wound
The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, and EDC. From incredible deals, to indispensable everyday carry gadgets, and more, there is always something for everyone here. Don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop Rewards Program to save and earn points with every purchase! This week, we kick things off with a fun (but seriously good) Paulin Modul A. From there we explore a G-Shock that has more features than you can count and a pen that packs a real punch. Toss in there a real treasure of a kerchief and a classic military watch on sale, and you’ve got yourself a heck of a lineup. Without further ado, here is your weekly Roundup. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, and EDC. From incredible deals, to indispensable everyday carry gadgets, and more, there is always something for everyone here. Don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop Rewards Program to save and earn points with every purchase! This week, we kick things off with a fun (but seriously good) Paulin Modul A. From there we explore a G-Shock that has more features than you can count and a pen that packs a real punch. Toss in there a real treasure of a kerchief and a classic military watch on sale, and you’ve got yourself a heck of a lineup. Without further ado, here is your weekly Roundup. The post The Roundup: Playful Mechanical Watches, Purpose Built Tools, and Wonderful Wogg...
Hodinkee
Can Laurent Ferrier provide an indie alternative to the continued integrated sports watch demand?
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