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Breitling Introduces the Chronomat Red Arrows SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Mar 3, 2021

Breitling Introduces the Chronomat Red Arrows

Best known for its pilot’s watches, Breitling has long enjoyed relationships with airforces across the world, including the United Kingdom’s Royal Air Force (RAF), especially its fabled aerobatic team, the Red Arrows. Continuing a partnership that is three decades old, Breitling has just announced the Chronomat Red Arrows Limited Edition. This is the latest in several Red Arrows editions that began in the 1990s, but the first that’s based on the latest-generation Chronomat, which also means it’s the first with an in-house movement, the Caliber 01. Not as revered by enthusiasts as the Navitimer with its distinctive slide-rule bezel, the Chronomat is nonetheless underrated. Introduced in 1984 to mark Breitling’s 100th anniversary, the modern-day Chronomat was a return to form for the brand, being a bold, brand-new design equipped with a mechanical movement, specifically the Valjoux 7750. Made even more distinctive with its Rouleaux bracelet made up of baton links, the Chronomat quickly became a bestseller that defined Breitling in the 1990s. Initial thoughts Given that fact that perhaps the best known Breitling-Red Arrows watch was a 1995 Chronomat with a red dial, the new edition makes perfect sense. That said, the Red Arrows watch is essentially the same as the standard Chronomat with a blue dial, but with the Red Arrows logo at 12 o’clock. Having more Red Arrows-specific elements incorporated to the design would have made it more distinctive, but since this ...

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged GMT Collection oozes robust elegance Time+Tide
Seiko Presage Sharp Edged GMT Mar 2, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged GMT Collection oozes robust elegance

The force is strong with Seiko and it’s clear they are not holding back this year with some fantastic new releases. The Sharp Edged Presage collection is known for its robust elegance, featuring eye-catching dials in highly scratch and water-resistant cases. Previously we all had a plethora of dials to admire in the time and … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged GMT Collection oozes robust elegance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Don’t miss out – the new Kurono Chronograph 2 from the cult Japanese brand will sell out fast Time+Tide
Feb 16, 2021

INTRODUCING: Don’t miss out – the new Kurono Chronograph 2 from the cult Japanese brand will sell out fast

I have been a huge fan of Kurono watches since their introduction. Master watchmaker Hajime Asaoka should be applauded for the brand’s mission of trying to make high-quality timepieces more accessible to consumers. What really makes Kurono so intriguing, beyond these more approachable price points, is the design language utilised across the various lines. This … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Don’t miss out – the new Kurono Chronograph 2 from the cult Japanese brand will sell out fast appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

George Bamford launches GB Talks podcast to discuss the sleepers of the vintage watch world Time+Tide
Feb 15, 2021

George Bamford launches GB Talks podcast to discuss the sleepers of the vintage watch world

George Bamford is about as passionate and enthusiastic a member of the watch community as you’ll ever find. His boisterous energy is infectious whether he’s discussing his Ferrari 275 GTB or the Bamford Watch Department x Time+Tide GMT1. And it’s this energy that is set to be the driving force behind his new podcast GB … ContinuedThe post George Bamford launches GB Talks podcast to discuss the sleepers of the vintage watch world appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot Unveils the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black SJX Watches
Hublot Unveils Jan 26, 2021

Hublot Unveils the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black

Fresh off the press at LVMH Watch Week – which like most trade fairs was entirely online – the Hublot Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black is one of the highlights amongst all the new launches. A collaboration with the Japanese contemporary artist known for his anime-inspired “superflat” creations, the Classic Fusion Murakami is a time-only watch with a twist: free-spinning, diamond-set petals that bring Mr Murakami’s “smiling flower” to life. Initial thoughts In photos the Murakami edition seems, at a glance, dull and static, in contrast to Mr Murakami’s signature style. But the watch glitters and spins, and despite not being serious haute horlogerie, it is cool and compelling. When I first heard that Hublot would be collaborating with Mr Murakami, I expected it to be dressed in psychedelic colours, so the muted All Black livery was a surprise. But as it turns out, it was Mr Murakami’s idea. Commenting the launch announcement, he said, “The one thing I did request was to go all black on our first collaboration… because the very first impression I had when I learned about Hublot was its signature black rubber [strap].” Still, the Murakami edition manages to convey the artist’s exuberant style without using colour, but instead relying on motion, texture, and the smiling flower emblem. And the all-black aesthetic makes sense given the diamonds and large size of the watch. The sparkle of the stones contrast well against the brushed bezel and bl...

RECOMMENDED READING: Could your PlayStation 5 controller screw up your watch by emitting magnetic fields? Time+Tide
Jan 11, 2021

RECOMMENDED READING: Could your PlayStation 5 controller screw up your watch by emitting magnetic fields?

Magnets are useful for many things. They’ve helped decorate the outside of countless fridges, inspired the name of a seminal New York rap group (the Ultramagnetic MCs), and given Wile E Coyote various half-baked ideas in his doomed attempt to catch Road Runner. But magnets are less benign when it comes to your mechanical watch. … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Could your PlayStation 5 controller screw up your watch by emitting magnetic fields? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Glashütte Original, Blancpain and Mido make up Luke’s three favourite watches of 2020 Time+Tide
Glashütte Original Blancpain Jan 1, 2021

Glashütte Original, Blancpain and Mido make up Luke’s three favourite watches of 2020

The lack of watch fairs and face-to-face watch showings meant that I saw fewer watches in the metal in 2020 than I had done in the last 10 years. But this lack of face time didn’t stop me salivating over a few key pieces that shot straight to the top of my wish-list. These were … ContinuedThe post Glashütte Original, Blancpain and Mido make up Luke’s three favourite watches of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 wildly desirable watches that you can buy on eBay right now Time+Tide
Dec 22, 2020

5 wildly desirable watches that you can buy on eBay right now

When it comes to buying vintage watches, the phrase “buy the seller” should always be at the back of your mind. That’s because trust is always paramount when you’re buying anything pre-owned due to that nagging fear the watch you buy might not arrive at your door as advertised. This year, eBay has made a … ContinuedThe post 5 wildly desirable watches that you can buy on eBay right now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LIST: Luke’s 5 favourite articles of 2020 Time+Tide
Dec 8, 2020

LIST: Luke’s 5 favourite articles of 2020

How many watches have you seen in the metal this year? My personal tally would surely be an all-time low. The COVID pandemic cancelled watch fairs while product viewings turned into digital affairs where white-gloved reps waved their timepieces at you over live video streams. There’s no real substitute for any of this, of course. … ContinuedThe post LIST: Luke’s 5 favourite articles of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: Quantifying Performance and Trade-Offs in Movement Design Part II SJX Watches
Rolex Daytona Dec 4, 2020

In-Depth: Quantifying Performance and Trade-Offs in Movement Design Part II

Previously, in Part I of this series, we analysed and reviewed over 40 watch movements in terms of their potential chronometric performance – via the Horological Density Factor (HDF), which encompasses balance power and power reserve against the size of the movement – and debated the various trade-offs that had been made in order to achieve specific technical or aesthetic characteristics. Many readers then asked how more commonly known and accessible movements compare. To answer that we needed more data from the industry. Fortunately, Swiss movement makers Valjoux, Fabrique d’Horlogerie de Fontainemelon, Unitas, as well as their parent company Ebauches SA – now all part of ETA – once published beautifully comprehensive, detailed data sheets that included balance wheel inertia values. Armed with this data, we have been able to analyse and plot a further 25 movements alongside the previous group (with the disclaimer that it might not be fully up to date since the data sheets date from before the Quartz Crisis in the 1970s) to give a total of 68 to allow further investigation and review. The analysis Several popular movements have been added: the workhorse ETA 2824-1 and -2, the ubiquitous ETA Valjoux 7750 chronograph, the large diameter ETA Unitas 6497-1 and -2, and the ETA Peseux 7001. We also added, among others, the integrated chronograph cal. 4130 in the Rolex Daytona, and the modular chronograph versions of both the ETA 2892 (known as the ETA 2894) as well as...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Nov 20, 2020

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon

Combining an unusual variety of complications that nevertheless go well aesthetically, the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon is the latest tourbillon wristwatch from Jaeger-LeCoultre, which has made something of a speciality in iterating its tourbillon movements with various additional complications. Powered by the newly-developed cal. 983, the new watch features a moon phase, pointer date, and tourbillon regulator. And its case is made of Le Grand rose gold, a fade-resistant gold alloy unveiled only earlier in the year. Initial thoughts The Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon is a handsome watch executed in the typical Jaeger-LeCoultre style. The design is classical, with a handful of details that refine the look, including the applied hour markers and metal-deposition moon phase scale. And the movement is decorated well, though largely by mechanical methods, and the result is visually appealing. But it is a bit large at 41.5 mm in diameter, and also thick at 12.1 mm high – giving it dimensions similar to a sports chronograph. The cal. 983 in the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon And the retail price of US$88,500 is high. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s strength is haute horlogerie in the middle of the price segment – though it’s been drifting upwards – alongside brands like Ulysse Nardin and H. Moser & Cie. But both those brands recently launched tourbillons of comparable quality – the Blast and Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon respectively – that cost less. Master To...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: SIHH 2021 is already cancelled, Cartier is feeling very generous and it’s a special birthday for Jack Heuer Time+Tide
Cartier Nov 19, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: SIHH 2021 is already cancelled, Cartier is feeling very generous and it’s a special birthday for Jack Heuer

Well, with the sense of a big black limousine passing through the neighbourhood in the middle of the night, there goes 2021 watch fairs. It’s November 2020, and the two biggest fairs of the coming year are already cancelled. So, as watch lovers, we face yet another year of digital attempts to re-create the magic, the … Continued

Business News: Switzerland’s Most Important Watch Fair Cancelled for 2021 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe as well as privately-held Nov 17, 2020

Business News: Switzerland’s Most Important Watch Fair Cancelled for 2021

Originally scheduled for the first week of April next year, Watches & Wonders 2021 was to have taken place at Palexpo, the convention hall near Geneva’s airport that’s long been host to Geneva’s major trade fairs. And it would have been a massive event, with up to 50 brands taking part. With the demise of Baselworld earlier this year, Watches & Wonders (W&W;) was on track to become the most important watch fair in Switzerland. Formerly known as SIHH, Watches & Wonders would have counted most of the industry’s leading brands as exhibitors. Its participants would have included all of the brands owned by Swiss luxury group Richemont, including Cartier, A. Lange & Söhne, and IWC, industry giants Rolex and Patek Philippe, as well as privately-held brands like Chanel and Chopard. A scene from SIHH 2019, seeming like a lifetime ago But due to the ongoing pandemic, the physical fair will not take place, and the participating brands will (mostly) launch their new wares online. A significant number of new watches will be unveiled during the planned dates of the fair – April 7 to 13, 2021 – but most of the brands will no doubt be unveiling additional watches throughout the year, as they have done in 2020. The organisers of W&W; are optimistic about the year after, promising the “2022 edition will be the biggest watch event ever held in Geneva”, with even more brands coming on board. For more, visit Watchesandwonders.com.  

#Kicktock: We pair Nike’s latest drop with the DOXA SUB 200 C-Graph, and magic happens Time+Tide
Doxa SUB 200 C-Graph Nov 14, 2020

#Kicktock: We pair Nike’s latest drop with the DOXA SUB 200 C-Graph, and magic happens

Hypebeast recently dropped the orange-flavoured candy of the Nike Air Force 1 ’07 LV8 Total Orange, a searchlight-bright version of the iconic trainer. As if the zesty orange wasn’t enough, they have teamed up with 3M for the metallic silver highlights, in an unashamed flash of reflections from the tiniest sliver of sunlight. This is … ContinuedThe post #Kicktock: We pair Nike’s latest drop with the DOXA SUB 200 C-Graph, and magic happens appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Getting some Eichi, or Wisdom, from macro monster @horomariobro Time+Tide
Oris ed dealer Oct 31, 2020

Getting some Eichi, or Wisdom, from macro monster @horomariobro

Within the watch community, you will hear the phrase “in the metal” a fair bit. With some watches it is as simple as paying a quick visit to an authorised dealer to become more acclimated with a watch. However, not all watches are available to view in-store – and no, this is not a conversation … ContinuedThe post Getting some Eichi, or Wisdom, from macro monster @horomariobro appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage SRPF41J and SRPF43J raise the bar with new and limited cocktail flavours Time+Tide
Seiko Presage SRPF41J Oct 29, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage SRPF41J and SRPF43J raise the bar with new and limited cocktail flavours

The Seiko Corporation, across its various brands, is known for making competitively valued watches with beautiful dials you cannot find from other brands – even at higher price points. The cocktail watches, as of late, have incorporated some gorgeous dial tones and textures, all of which are eye candy to the wearer and those who … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage SRPF41J and SRPF43J raise the bar with new and limited cocktail flavours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bulgari Introduces the Aluminium Tricolore SJX Watches
Bulgari Introduces Oct 28, 2020

Bulgari Introduces the Aluminium Tricolore

Having revived its Aluminium series earlier in the year – the model was first launched in 1998 as an affordable, lightweight sports watch –  Bulgari has just announced the Aluminium Tricolore, a limited edition created in collaboration with the Aeronautica Militare, Italy’s air force. Clad in dark blue rubber, instead of the conventional black, the Aluminium Tricolore was also conceived with the pandemic in mind, as revenue from the sale of the first 50 watches will go to a trio of children’s hospitals in Italy. Initial thoughts A faddish watch in the years after its launch, the original Aluminium was discontinued about a decade after its introduction, which means enough time has past that it’s interesting again. The new Aluminium has pretty much the same appeal as the original – an unusual combination of materials, lightness, and affordability – but also some of the same drawbacks, namely neither aluminium nor rubber are as durable as steel. Both materials tend to show wear more easily than steel does. Still it is a good-looking sports watch for a relatively modest price of US$3,000 or so, and the Tricolore is a bit more appealing in its new livery that’s a bit less stark than the black and silver of the standard model. It is also a good thing that the tricolour logo on the dial is discreet, which preserves the overall two-tone look of the Aluminium. Frecce Tricolori Named after the Frecce Tricolori, the Italian air force’s famed aerobatics team, the wa...

Anton Suhanov Introduces the Lotus Triple-Axis Tourbillon Clock SJX Watches
Cartier Oct 27, 2020

Anton Suhanov Introduces the Lotus Triple-Axis Tourbillon Clock

Russian clockmaker Anton Suhanov has just unveiled his next table clock, one that is even more monumental than his preceding creation, last year’s Alexandria lighthouse-inspired Pharos. Standing on a long, thin stem, the Lotus is a flower-like clock with a triple-axis tourbillon within a sphere enclosed by metallic petals. Running for 14 days when fully wound, the clock is also an automaton – the petals open and close slowly in a 12-hour cycle, much like a real flower. Initial thoughts A feat like this inevitably costs a substantial amount of money – €45,000 in this case – but it is worth every euro, because the clock is incredible, and there is nothing else like it. Mr Suhanov makes almost the entire clock himself in his workshop – and there is a lot of clock. Beyond the obvious features, namely the world time within the base and the intricate yet organic triple-axis tourbillon at the top, the mechanism of the clock is ingenious and intriguing. Like the mystery clocks Maurice Couet invented for Cartier, the tourbillon is driven by a long, narrow pinion, one so long it runs all the way up the stem. Beyond the mechanics, the clocks is also impressive for its design, which manages to blend organic forms and colours with vast expanses of metal, resulting in an appealing, sci-fi aesthetic. Night and day The central feature of the clock is within seven petals made of rhodium-plated brass, which function as a day and night indicator. Fully open at midday, the petal...

The three most common answers to why the hell you’d wear a watch in lockdown? Time+Tide
Oct 27, 2020

The three most common answers to why the hell you’d wear a watch in lockdown?

For many of you reading, COVID-19 is the virus that will. Not. Go. Away. At first, for most, it was a bit of a quirky change of pace. Fun, even. A blur of Netflix, homemade Negronis and novelties like bare-knuckle fighting for toilet paper. But as it’s ground on, the darkness has subsumed many of … ContinuedThe post The three most common answers to why the hell you’d wear a watch in lockdown? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Introduces the 60th Anniversary Hi-Beat SLGH003 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Oct 13, 2020

Grand Seiko Introduces the 60th Anniversary Hi-Beat SLGH003

Grand Seiko has progressively introduced a diverse line up of watches to mark its 60th anniversary, ranging from a remake of the vintage 3180 to the heavily jewelled 8 Days to the T0 Constant Force Tourbillon, while also opening the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi production facility. Now the brand has finally reached the last of it anniversary watches with the Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Caliber 9SA5 Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours SLGH003. Although the 60th anniversary watches are numerous, the most significant was the Hi-Beat 80 Hours SLGH002, which was powered by the newly-developed 9SA5, the first of a new generation of movements that will underpin the Grand Seiko collection. The SLGH002 was available only in 18k yellow gold and correspondingly pricey, but now the movement is available in the all-steel SLGH003. Initial thoughts From the perspective of being a more affordable version of the yellow-gold SLGH002, the SLGH003 is appealing. It’s still an expensive watch – the retail price is US$9,700 – but a lot less than the US$43,000 of the gold model. But from the perspective of it being one of several anniversary editions, many of which share the same dial colour, it is less appealing. That is especially so given that the 9SA5 movement will inevitably be made available in regular-production models that will probably cost a bit less. So if the colour and design is a big draw, then the SLGH003 is a buy. If not, just wait for the next one. Anniversary livery The SLGH003 h...

Does the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Steel truly belong with the big hitters? We put two Trinity Watches next to it to find out…. Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref.15202 Oct 2, 2020

Does the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Steel truly belong with the big hitters? We put two Trinity Watches next to it to find out….

See how the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Steel fares next to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref.15202 and the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711.The post Does the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Steel truly belong with the big hitters? We put two Trinity Watches next to it to find out…. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

On Scene: Watches & Wonders Shanghai SJX Watches
Sep 26, 2020

On Scene: Watches & Wonders Shanghai

The second week of September saw one of the few large-scale watch fairs of the year take place by the Huangpu River in Shanghai. With the COVID-19 pandemic forcing the cancellation of the world’s two most important watch fairs, Baselworld and SIHH (as well as the permanent demise of Baselworld), Watches & Wonders Shanghai (W&W;) was staged at the West Bund Art Center. As a watch journalist, I used to fly to Switzerland twice a year for the fairs – SIHH in January followed by Baselworld around March – but this year the event came to my home city for the first time. Did W&W; live up to expectations? How has the event changed as it crossed the world? Green and good to go The difference between W&W; and the traditional Swiss fairs was apparent from the point of entry. Guests and journalists were no longer granted access with pass cards, the norm at the Swiss fairs since I can remember. Instead we received an invite email from the fair’s organiser Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) prior to the event, requiring us to register online for a QR entry code. Security staff at the fair’s entrance scanned every visitor’s QR code, as well as our Suishen Code, a digital pass issued by the city authorities. Both an identification and health pass, the Suishen Code has allowed the government to combat the pandemic with rigorous efficiency; every city or province in China has its own health code – the primary reason why a watch fair with hundreds of visitors can take place...

VIDEO: We take a look at 5 of the best Longines watches from 2020 Time+Tide
Longines watches from 2020 If Sep 23, 2020

VIDEO: We take a look at 5 of the best Longines watches from 2020

If you can say one thing about the Longines releases from 2020, it is that they certainly aren’t boring. With interesting new references being released from across Longines’ various collections, as well as the launch of the brand new Longines Spirit collection, it has been a significant year for the Saint-Imier based brand. The Heritage … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: We take a look at 5 of the best Longines watches from 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The “I Voted” Shinola Detrola 43mm Limited Edition watch Time+Tide
Shinola Sep 22, 2020

INTRODUCING: The “I Voted” Shinola Detrola 43mm Limited Edition watch

Shinola is an American luxury design brand that manufactures various products – from timepieces, leather goods, jewellery, and even audio equipment. Founded in 2011, the company operates an in-house watch and leather factory based within the fifth floor of the historic Argonaut Building, where a team of artisans hand assembles timepieces and crafts premium leather straps. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The “I Voted” Shinola Detrola 43mm Limited Edition watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

3 explosive quotes from emerging industry leader and Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin about Rolex, Baselworld and the future Time+Tide
Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin about Sep 10, 2020

3 explosive quotes from emerging industry leader and Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin about Rolex, Baselworld and the future

Cometh the crisis, cometh the man. Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of Bulgari, has grown in stature yet again over the last six months as Bulgari has taken a militant stance against COVID-19. Whether it’s delivering Bulgari hand sanitiser to hospitals to assist in their fight against this deadly virus, or delivering a fair with 16 of … ContinuedThe post 3 explosive quotes from emerging industry leader and Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin about Rolex, Baselworld and the future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.