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Gintastic! The Weird And Wonderful World Of Today’s Oddball Gins (Warning: Some Are Just Mad As A Hatter!) – Reprise Quill & Pad
May 21, 2022

Gintastic! The Weird And Wonderful World Of Today’s Oddball Gins (Warning: Some Are Just Mad As A Hatter!) – Reprise

What do truffles, Harley-Davidson motorcycles, trout, elephant dung, and green ants have in common? These items and countless more have all been used to make specialist craft gins. Sure, gin needs juniper. But after that it is open slather. Indeed, it is hard to think of a plant, herb, root, flower, leaf, and much more than has not been used to make gin. And some of them are just batsh*t crazy!

Breguet Introduces the Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597 in White Gold and Blue SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces May 18, 2022

Breguet Introduces the Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597 in White Gold and Blue

Introduced in 2005, the Breguet Tradition is characterised by its inverted movement that reveals most of the movement on the dial. It was a modern concept inspired by the 19th century: the movement was inspired by the souscription pocket watches created by Abraham-Louis Breguet. Since its launch the Tradition has grown into a full-fledged collection ranging from time-only models to the top-of-the-line tourbillon with fusee-and-chain. One of the simplest, yet most striking, is the Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597, which has been given a new look with an attractive blue dial. Initial thoughts I have always found the Tradition attractive, particularly the early models with smaller case sizes that tend to work better with in traditional palettes like yellow gold or “pink-on-pink”. The newer models are more sophisticated mechanically, but their cases are larger while the colours are mostly modern in greys and blacks, so the retro-elegance is absent. But the latest Quantième Rétrograde is amongst the best looking Tradition models in the current catalogue. It’s mechanically identical to the original introduced in 2020, but now it gets a two-tone dial that has more contrast, giving it with a stronger character and easily setting it apart from the more classical Tradition models. The date indicator makes a 180 degree jump at the end of each month The blue-on-grey livery isn’t novel, since it was used before on the boutique edition Tradition 7097, a simpler watch tha...

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Hands-on May 9, 2022

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Hands-on Review

What we love: Good size for most wristsModern design and unobtrusiveGreat looking and long-lasting green and blue lume What we don’t love: Some may find embossed case back can be a little irritating on the wristLess than the standard 38hr power reserve on the AutomaticSome wearers may find the large crown tends to stick out more and can irritate the wrist/back of the hand Overall rating: 7.75/10 Value for money: 7.0/10 Wearability: 7.0/ 10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.0/10 After reviewing the TAG Heuer 60th Anniversary Autavia Flyback Chronograph the last week, I was eager to see how this new era of TAG translated to the newly released Aquaracer Professional 200 – a modern take on the classic Aquaracer line. Whilst the watch is in no way in the same league as the Autavia, nor should it be at the price point ($4,000 AUD for the Auto, $2,950 for the Quartz), I came away with mixed feelings about this newly released line. A New Chapter In The Story The Aquaracer story began in 1978 when Jack Heuer introduced the Heuer Reference 844. Designed for men and women who loved outdoor sports and adventures in nature – on land or in the water – the watch defined a new high-performance category of versatile wristwatches that could be relied on in extreme conditions. The Aquaracer name was added in 2004 and continued the legacy of the family’s six design codes: a unidirectional rotating bezel; a screw-down crown; water resistance to at least 200 metres; luminous markings; a...

Quest For My Ultimate Fountain Pen Part 3: The Luxury Brand Period – Reprise Quill & Pad
May 8, 2022

Quest For My Ultimate Fountain Pen Part 3: The Luxury Brand Period – Reprise

After obtaining a Delta Dolce Vita Oversized at the conclusion of his Italian period, Martin Green was a very happy man. The pen served him very well, and he was in love with the looks as well as the writing experience. And while Martin wasn't looking for a replacement pen, it happened anyway . . . with some very famous brands. Read the third part of his writing instrument odyssey here.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Control in Blue SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Apr 29, 2022

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Control in Blue

The Master Control was first conceived in 1992 as Jaeger-LeCoultre’s best offering in terms of accuracy and reliability, with every watch undergoing a 1,000-hour, in-house quality control test. While the rigorous testing was fairly novel at the time, it has since become the norm for all Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) watches. But the Master Control line has lived on. Facelifted in 2020, the Master Control watches have grown moderately in size to suit contemporary states but they retain the restrained design that characterised the original range. Most of the models sport a muted silver dial, but for the 30th anniversary of the collection, JLC has introduced the Master Control Date and Master Control Calendar with tri-tone blue dials. The simpler of the duo – the Master Control Date Initial thoughts My first impression of the watches is positive. Blue is a contemporary colour that nudges the aesthetic towards a more casual style, as opposed to the retro-formal look of the standard, silver-dial models. Notably, the limited-edition pair are ore than a change of colour. The thoughtful design is evident through the details, especially with the tri-tone finish of the dial. While blue can be found practically everywhere in watchmaking, tri-tone blue is unusual and attractive. And the calendar windows reveal discs that are in blue to match the dial. The red accents as well as the starry background of the moon phase are details that make the dial more interesting Both watches are othe...

MEET THE TEAM: Buffy’s top 5 leftfield picks from Watches & Wonders Time+Tide
Apr 29, 2022

MEET THE TEAM: Buffy’s top 5 leftfield picks from Watches & Wonders

This year’s Watches & Wonders amazed me, not just because I was shocked by the scale of the in-person event, but because so many different brands decided to buck all trends. Sure, there were plenty of green dials, but there also seems to be a growing desire for watches that show a quirkier personality, and … ContinuedThe post MEET THE TEAM: Buffy’s top 5 leftfield picks from Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding Apr 22, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding

In Vacheron Constantin’s own words, the Patrimony is “circular perfection”, serving as a minimalist, modern interpretation of its elegant models of the 1950s. The four new Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding models introduced today re-establish this well-known collection. With a redesigned case and crown, they distinguish themselves from their Holy Trinity competitors by offering a bit … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer Goes Big with Synthetic Diamonds SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Goes Big Apr 11, 2022

TAG Heuer Goes Big with Synthetic Diamonds

TAG Heuer is injecting advanced materials technology into what was the most affordable tourbillon-chronograph on the market, creating the Carrera Plasma Tourbillon Nanograph. The new watch makes liberal use of carbon in all its forms, most notably with a carbon-composite hairspring along with a dial and crown made entirely of synthetic diamond, reflecting chief executive Frederic Arnault’s interest in technology and industrial processes. Priced at the equivalent of US$375,000, the Plasma is the first luxury mechanical watch to utilise artificial, or lab-grown, diamonds. Initial thoughts TAG Heuer has developed a suite of cutting-edge technology unusual a brands in its price range, though the brand’s most significant innovation, the carbon-composite hairspring, has never really gotten the recognition it deserves. While extremely expensive and slated to be produced in tiny numbers – just a handful a year according to Mr Arnault – the Plasma will certain broadcast TAG Heuer’s accomplishments in innovation, as well as that of its in synthetic diamond suppliers. While lab-grown diamonds aren’t new, they have never before been used in high-end watch. As befits their unconventional status, the synthetic diamonds have been set in an abstract manner on the case, as opposed to typical gem setting. Combined with the synthetic diamond dial and crown, the result is a watch that is weird yet compelling. But more important than the decorative use of synthetic diamond is the...

INTRODUCING – Panerai makes a splash with the Submersible QuarantaQuattro Time+Tide
Panerai makes Apr 10, 2022

INTRODUCING – Panerai makes a splash with the Submersible QuarantaQuattro

Famous for its military-devised, utilitarian design, the Panerai Submersible diversifies with a slew of new 44mm references. A variety of materials and finishes is united under one name – Submersible QuarantaQuattro. Formerly attributed to the Luminor range, the Submersible collection achieved autonomy in 2019, but retained the patented crown-protection system. Already featuring more than 20 … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING – Panerai makes a splash with the Submersible QuarantaQuattro appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

4 Radical Red Watches From Omega, Bell & Ross, Rado, And Oris – Reprise Quill & Pad
Bell & Ross Rado Apr 7, 2022

4 Radical Red Watches From Omega, Bell & Ross, Rado, And Oris – Reprise

In recent years, the world of high-end watches has become a far more colorful place. We have evolved from decades of conservatism in which a blue dial was daring to a kaleidoscopic era where anything is possible. And now red arrives, which has the advantage of a richness of hues. Here Martin Green looks at four new red-dialed watches from Bell & Ross, Oris, Rado, and Omega.

Rolex Introduces the GMT-Master II “Left Handed” Ref. 126720VTNR SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Mar 31, 2022

Rolex Introduces the GMT-Master II “Left Handed” Ref. 126720VTNR

One of the biggest surprises from Rolex at Watches & Wonders 2022 is the GMT-Master II ref. 126720VTNR – the first contemporary, regular-production Rolex with a left-handed or “destro” crown. And just to make it even more different, it is equipped with the brand’s first-ever green-and-black bezel. Initial thoughts A brand that has preserved the signature style of watches for decades, Rolex is all about incremental improvements that are often evident only in the details. That’s exactly the case with the new GMT-Master II, which retains the trademark GMT aesthetic but is rather different. In fact, it is very different, which makes it polarising – you either like it or you don’t. Initially the left-handed crown does look awkward on the left wrist; it feels off somehow. But very quickly you get used to it and it is surprisingly cool. The new ref. 126710VTNR is priced about US$550 more than its counterparts with a conventionally located crown. According to Rolex, the price difference does not result from the rejigged crown position but rather the changes to the testing equipment necessary to accommodate the new crown position. Destro Most obvious is the crown at nine o’clock, which is accompanied by a repositioned date window. It is ostensibly for the left-handed, but will surely find fans amongst right-handers who want something unusual. It is intriguing, just because it’s so different from the rest of the brand’s offering (though Rolex’s sister compan...

WATCHES & WONDERS – It’s a whitewash! The DOXA Whitepearl expands into multiple forms Time+Tide
Doxa Whitepearl expands into multiple Mar 31, 2022

WATCHES & WONDERS – It’s a whitewash! The DOXA Whitepearl expands into multiple forms

Following the resounding success of the entry-level SUB 200 Whitepearl colourway, DOXA applies a lick of fresh white paint across its model range. Spanning five different models, the white colour departs from the usual neon we’ve grown accustomed to from DOXA, for a more classic, yet ever-legible, look. SUB 300 Carbon COSC Whitepearl A 42.5mm … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS – It’s a whitewash! The DOXA Whitepearl expands into multiple forms appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rolex Introduces the Revamped Air King Ref. 126900 SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Mar 30, 2022

Rolex Introduces the Revamped Air King Ref. 126900

In a teaser before Watches & Wonders 2022, Rolex published a partial image of a watch with a smooth, fixed bezel and crown guards – a combination of features found in no current model at the time. It was the all-new Air King ref. 126900 that gained a redesigned case and dial as well as a new bracelet and an upgraded movement. In other words, an entirely different watch, yet one that has the same spirit as its predecessor. Initial thoughts Conceptually, the Air-King is very novel for Rolex (just like the left-handed GMT-Master II) since it is the first Rolex to combine both a smooth bezel and crown guards. But it is still typically Rolex in its substantive upgrades meant to improve practicality and wearability. For instance, removing the soft iron inner cage means the case is flatter and sits better on the wrist. The new reference is powered by the cal. 3230 equipped by Rolex’s proprietary blue Parachrom hairspring. This increases magnetism resistance while helping boost power reserve to about 70 hours, an upgrade from the 48 hours of the cal. 3131 found in the outgoing model. Overall, the revamp of the Air-King is more practical than aesthetic since the look largely remains intact, although the watch does feel a bit more sculpted and refined. Having had the opportunity to experience the actual watch, it looks and feels excellent on the wrist. Thoroughly updated All of the design tweaks to the Air-King serve to make it more sporty. The highlight is certainly the crow...

Omega Introduces the Aqua Terra in Bright Colours SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Mar 18, 2022

Omega Introduces the Aqua Terra in Bright Colours

Of Omega’s novelties for the year (which include a 6000 m dive watch and solid-gold Speedmaster Moonwatch) the Seamaster Aqua Terra is the most affordable while also offering the widest range in terms of style and size. The brand has just taken the covers off the latest Aqua Terra range made up of ten watches evenly divided into 34 mm and 38 mm cases, but all in vibrant, upbeat colours. The 34 mm model with a Lagoon Green dial Initial thoughts In terms of intrinsic appeal, the latest Aqua Terras are a wonderful addition to the line up. They show that Omega has begun to loosen up in terms of dial colours and style, which will no doubt help widen its audience. Another point of appeal is the dial finish. While the colours are bright, they aren’t in-your-face thanks to a brushed finish. And the 34 mm model also sports more rounded forms for the hands and hour markers that give it a more elegant feel. Overall, it makes for a versatile watch that’s not too sporty. And it’s also good news Omega has done away with the linear motif inspired by the wood decks of a sailboat that was long synonymous with the Aqua Terra. The 34 mm quintet That said, the collection immediately call to mind the Oyster Perpetual from 2020 that was an instant hit thanks to its range of colourful, lacquered dials. That leaves the new Aqua Terra feeling like a trend follower rather than trendsetter. Only time will tell whether this approach is conducive to the positioning of the brand. (To be fair,...

Formula 1 Season Preview – The teams and their watch sponsors (Part One) Time+Tide
Mar 16, 2022

Formula 1 Season Preview – The teams and their watch sponsors (Part One)

All bets are off for the 2022 Formula 1 season, with sweeping regulation changes that promise to shake up the pecking order that we’ve all grown so tired of over the last eight years. The big names will always have an advantage when it comes to funding and organisational streamlining, but with a strict budget … ContinuedThe post Formula 1 Season Preview – The teams and their watch sponsors (Part One) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Ming 22.01 GMT may be your best shot at getting your hands on this hot independent Time+Tide
Ming Mar 9, 2022

The Ming 22.01 GMT may be your best shot at getting your hands on this hot independent

I’m going to be honest with you. The appeal of independent watch brands has grown in my day-to-day involvement with this hobby. The chance of owning something unique, with a recognizable design language and quality construction gets harder and harder to say no to. Yet, with these brands currently at the forefront of watchmaking, the … ContinuedThe post The Ming 22.01 GMT may be your best shot at getting your hands on this hot independent appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original 40mm Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Ball Watch es may not be Mar 9, 2022

Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original 40mm Hands-on Review

What we like: Great looking watch with solid engineeringExcellent fit and finishComfortable on the wrist What we didn’t : Crown guard may feel fiddly for day-to-day useSharpish edges on the claspNot the easiest watch to change straps Overall rating: 8.125 /10 Value for money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 First things first. Let’s all get our minds out of the gutter and leave the crude, juvenile schoolyard jokes behind. We’re better than that. Aren’t we? Yes, I get that jokes about balls are just too easy and we should all rise above it and move on to more sophisticated humour. Probably. Ball watches may not be front of mind for the vast majority of us considering a watch purchase, but it really shouldn’t be overlooked… once you get past the name… Yes, I know what I typed just in the previous paragraph. But it’s just too easy. As the size of your balls, all the best quality of the watches are hidden, away from prying eyes. But once you dive deeper you’ll see that perhaps these inner qualities are worth a second glance. Or three. To be honest, much like the rest of you, I’ve not given the Balls a second glance. Even though I’ve known about the brand for a long time, the only thing that I knew about them was their glow-in-the-dark capabilities, thanks to their tritium gas tube technology. Other than that, to me, they were just another brand utilising reliable workhorse movements from ETA/sellita, but not much else stood o...

Disillusioned with the prices at auctions? Check out this full set of Seiko “Monaco” chronographs on this novel auction site Time+Tide
Seiko Monaco” chronographs Mar 1, 2022

Disillusioned with the prices at auctions? Check out this full set of Seiko “Monaco” chronographs on this novel auction site

Editor’s note: Brendan Cunningham is a Professor of Economics at Eastern Connecticut State University in the US and the man behind Horolonomics, a blog that explores the economic issues in watchmaking. Over the last five years or so, the luxury watch auction market seems to have grown more and more inaccessible for many collectors.  Economist Stephen … ContinuedThe post Disillusioned with the prices at auctions? Check out this full set of Seiko “Monaco” chronographs on this novel auction site appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Chopard L.U.C Collection Upon Turning 25: Here Are A Few Highlights Quill & Pad
Chopard L.U.C Collection Upon Turning Feb 26, 2022

The Chopard L.U.C Collection Upon Turning 25: Here Are A Few Highlights

Twenty-five years – a quarter of a century – is a long time. But it’s not that long for a watch manufacturer. In 1996, Chopard's co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele proudly introduced Caliber 1.96 to the world, his brand's very first in-house movement. Here Martin Green highlights a few of his favorites from the 25-year-old L.U.C collection.

Nomos Introduces the Tangente Neomatik “Platinum Gray” SJX Watches
Nomos Introduces Feb 26, 2022

Nomos Introduces the Tangente Neomatik “Platinum Gray”

One of the four original models that Nomos launched as its inaugural collection in 1992, the Tangente is the brand’s longest-running model, having grown both literally and metaphorically – the case has expanded from a tiny 35 mm to today’s 41 mm, while the line has grown to include dozens of models. Now the Glashütte watchmaker has just given the automatic model an update to create the Tangente Neomatik “Platinum Gray” with a restrained dial that has a subtly sparkling grained finish and a case available in either 35 mm or 39 mm. Initial thoughts Despite being a simple iteration of an existing model, the Platinum Gray is a pleasing addition to the range. The highlight is the elegant dial, which calls to mind another watch made in Nomos’ hometown, the platinum Lange 1 nicknamed “Stealth” for its silver-on-silver palette. But the Tangente is clearly different – and far more affordable – as it looks less formal with its large Arabic numerals (and ironically the typography was inspired by vintage Lange wristwatches). Like other recent Nomos watches, the Platinum Gray is a variation on a theme – essentially just a new dial – which makes it repetitive. The lack of innovation or novelty can leave Nomos feeling unexciting at times, though the strong design identity and affordability of the brand remains appealing, as does its affordability. With a price tag that starts at US$3,070 and rises to US$3,780 depending on the case size and back, the Platinum ...