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Quill & Pad
The ever-changing colors of the silicon wafer dial on the Louis Moinet Astronef Techno are not caused by light reflections but by iridescence. This is the phenomenon of a surface changing color as the angle of view or the angle of illumination changes. But there is much more to this unique piece watch than a stunning dial.
Time+Tide
This microbrand watch's sci-fi looks are extremely compelling, with a design inspired by telescopes and featuring a meteorite dial.The post Gravithin’s Galileo-inspired Focuscope democratises the meteorite dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Baltic's latest piece features unisex proportions and a stunning Art Deco-inspired dial.The post The Baltic Prismic reinvents the classic cocktail watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
The original Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer II 1655 that debuted in 1971 is probably my favorite Rolex watch of all time. I wish I’d felt the same in the mid-1980s when you could pick up an unloved “Freccione” at a huge discount. Unfortunately, I only started warming up to the Explorer II with its steel […] Visit This Monday Morning, I Realized I Should Have Bought The Black-Dial Rolex Explorer II 16570 Instead Of The White One to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
The Louis Moinet Memoris chronograph was the first watch to put the chronograph mechanism fully visible dial side. Now, Louis Moinet has added a flying tourbillon to their monopusher column wheel chronograph and called it Impulsion.
Revolution
Our latest Grail Watch sees us return to Germany’s watchmaking heartland, Glashütte, and the expert watchmakers at Moritz Grossmann. The moniker for this elegant watch comes from the dial, which is made from the durable alloy of copper, nickel, and zinc known as maillechort, or German Silver in English. German Silver is remarkable in that […]
Revolution
Live now – Grail Watch 9.1: the Moritz Grossmann x Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 Stainless Steel ‘German Silver’. Our latest Grail Watch sees us return to Germany’s watchmaking heartland, Glashütte, and the expert watchmakers at Moritz Grossman. The moniker for this elegant watch comes from the dial, which is made from the durable alloy of […]
Teddy Baldassarre
For many watch brands, green dials have become less of a niche novelty and more of an essential option, often even a go-to variation for their most popular models. After several years of steadily trending in the enthusiast community, green-dial watches can currently be found in collections that range from sporty to military to dressy, in a verdant rainbow of color tones, from mint green to forest green to dark olive green and various shades in between. Here's a selection of 40 green-dial watches that have caught our eye lately, in ascending order of price, many of which can be purchased right here on TeddyBaldassarre.com. Tissot PRX Quartz Mint Price: $375, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 10.5mm, Lug to Lug: 44.6mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 100m, Movement: Quartz ETA F06.115 Like the self-winding Powermatic 80 version spotlighted below, this quartz-driven model in Tissot’s PRX series features the tapering tonneau-style case and integrated metal bracelet that distinguished its predecessor from the 1970s. The pastel mint-green dial color is a recent debut in the collection, and has already made quite the splash with collectors who appreciate its eye-catching, playful aesthetic combined with its very accessible price point - the latter a product of the watch’s quartz movement, the Swiss-made ETA F016.115, which powers the simple three-handed time display and date indication at 3 o’clock. Tissot eventually offering this vibrant colorway in an automatic mo...
SJX Watches
Something of an alternative “Moon” watch, the Bulova Lunar Pilot was unveiled eight years ago as a remake of the watch worn by American astronaut David Scott. It retains all the distinctive features of the original but made affordable thanks to a quartz movement. But now it’s a become a bit more luxe with a meteorite dial inside a scaled-down case. Initial thoughts As a space-watch aficionado, I find the Lunar Pilot more interesting than its more famous counterparts because of the unique yet contemporary design, particularly the modern typography on the chronograph registers. After its debut, the Lunar Pilot was made more wearable with a smaller case size of 43.5 mm in diameter. Not much has happened since then, either in terms of dial variety or other innovation, limiting its appeal beyond a niche audience. Therefore, the meteorite dial version is a welcome development, particularly since the material is still uncommon in this price segment. The meteorite edition, however, is pricey for the Lunar Pilot. It costs at US$1,495, a US$600 increase over the model with the standard dial. This price hike is arguably warranted since such dials are typically, but not always, found on more expensive timepieces. Despite being a limited edition, it is a run of 5,000 pieces, which isn’t exactly “limited”; a smaller edition size would have made it more compelling. A space rock dial David Scott’s own Bulova Chronograph ref. 88510/01 worn during the Apollo 15 mission in 1971...
Fratello
In our series Exploring Evergreens, we have a look at watches that have been around for some time. These are watches that have stood the test of time to become archetypes, sometimes even icons. Today, I am covering the Rolex Explorer ref. 16570 in the black-dial execution. This is the most worn watch in my […] Visit Exploring Evergreens: The Black-Dial Rolex Explorer II 16570 to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Are there special vintage watch dial variations named after notable women in a vein similar to that of the Paul Newman Rolex Daytona? Nick Gould was wondering just that and researched. Finding a photo of Vanessa Redgrave wearing a Rolex Submariner Reference 5513 with "Explorer" dial in 1966, he ruefully opines that this rare model would sound so much cooler as the Rolex "Vanessa Redgrave" Submariner rather than what collectors call it now: Rolex Reference 5513 Submariner with Explorer dial.
Monochrome
It’s pretty surprising when you think that the Highlife collection, Frederique Constant’s take on the luxury sports watch, has been around for fewer than three years. Thanks to its well-designed and finished case, its integrated and interchangeable bracelet, its clean dial, its well-represented range of complications, its affordable price tag, and the fact that it […]
Time+Tide
A tasteful sandwich dial, enormous amount of lume and on-the-fly micro-adjustment helps this Swedish watch stand out from the pack.The post The Tusenö Shellback V2 is a stylish Swedish dive watch that’s a cut above most independent offerings appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
It can get a bit tiring introducing “another” affordable field watch from “another” new microbrand, but the Rubus from Montford Watch Company is different, supporting Tusk’s charity work in Africa with a well-thought timepiece that’s anything but an afterthought. From the textured steel grey dial, proven automatic movement and a pair of cool straps, the […]
Worn & Wound
In 2019 Roue introduced their TPS line chronographs, which are inspired by the Porsche 910 that won the Nürburgring 1000-kilometer race in 1967. These watches feature both Tachymeter and Pulsometer scales surrounding the dial. Just in case you need to check your pulse, while at the same time measuring your speed. For 2023, Roue has come up with two more versions of their popular TPS line. Following in the footsteps of the previous five, we have the aptly named Six (with white dial), as well as the Seven (with a graphite/grey dial). Both feature tone on tone subdials with multi-color accents for a look that is inherently cohesive but still visually interesting. You would think two timing scales would make for a cluttered dial. In this case, you would be wrong. The tachymeter scale begins where the pulsometer ends, neither overlapping the other. It is remarkably clean and easy to read. This clarity is further enhanced by the lack of any text on the dial, apart from the brand name. Powering these chronographs is the Seiko caliber SII VK63, which is a Mecha-Quartz movement. For those that need a refresher, these movements blend quartz timing precision and mechanical chronograph technology. This allows for the tactile pleasure of that satisfying snap when activating the chronograph, along with the second-hand sweep we enthusiasts so enjoy. Aside from these 2 great characteristics, the biggest benefit of using this movement is its size and low cost. All TPS watches featur...
Time+Tide
Rather than give the BR-X5 a full lume dial, they've given it a full lume case.The post Bell & Ross’ BR-X5 Green Lum is their most sci-fi watch yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Known for producing some of the most popular sporting and outdoor gear on the market, Ball and Buck has teamed up with Swiss watch brand Luminox for their latest iteration of the classic Field Watch. The entirety of the watch centers around the Ball and Buck camo design that fits naturally into the field watch aesthetic. Used as the dial, one immediately gets the sense that this is a watch that’s meant to be worn in an array of environments year after year. Against the green and brown tones of the dial, the watch is accented in vibrant orange, which includes Luminox Light Technology providing maximum visibility even in the darkest environments for all-day use. The watch itself runs on a 26 jewel automatic Swiss Sellita SW 220 movement that can be seen through the sapphire crystal exhibition back, adding a bit of hidden enchantment for an otherwise utility focused watch. The case measures 44mm in diameter and is 14mm tall. The watch is available in two options. A standard and non-limited release priced at $1,298, gets you the watch with a leather strap. For an additional $200 at $1,498, you can opt for the limited edition set, which includes an additional ballistic nylon watch band, certificate of authenticity, and premium watch box. The collector’s set is limited to just 76 pieces. The Ball and Buck x Luminox Field Watch is available now via the Ball and Buck website. Images from this post: The post Luminox Partners with Ball and Buck for a Limited Edition Field ...
Worn & Wound
The affordable integrated bracelet sports watch wars have been waged on multiple fronts for many months at this point, and now, in a surprising development to some, they’ve hit the Swatch Group in a major way. Since its introduction, the Tissot PRX has been the standard bearer in the value driven integrated bracelet sports watch market, offering a huge variety of dial colors, sizes, and movement options at a price point that makes them compelling for collectors curious to try out what is undoubtedly still the hottest variety of sporty watch in the greater horological landscape. But now, a new challenger has emerged from within, with the introduction of Certina’s DS-7 Powermatic 80. Certina, at least in the United States, is frequently overlooked, as the brand doesn’t have significant distribution here, but they hold a key spot in the Swatch Group’s roster of brands on the more affordable side of the spectrum, and the new integrated offering here is an interesting and subtle contrast with the vaunted PRX. The PRX is notable for its highly angular case shape, inspired by a distinctly 1980s design language. Particularly in quartz variants, it feels decidedly retro while still giving more than a whiff of Royal Oak if you just give it a quick glance. The DS-7 as seen here is a very different animal, with a much softer and rounder case shape and bracelet integration. If the PRX conjures the 1980s, the DS-7 feels more like a 1970s throwback, particularly considering som...
Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward seems to have gotten some divine intervention with the latest release of theirs, the Twelve Halo. Based on the sporty series that boasts a dodecagonal (that’s 12-sided for those of you who failed geometry, like me) case, the Halo has a luxurious update with a ring of gold around the dial. The gold itself is the perfect accent against the otherwise plain appearance of the watch, showing that simple is sometimes the best. Contrasting against the brushed steel case, the 18-karat gold is a bit of mixed-metal done right. While the choice of either a silver or black dial only adds to the simplicity of the overall offering, meaning nothing is detracting from the Halo’s minimalism. Whether one is picking the silver or black dial, you’re treated to small, intentional design features which tie the whole thing together. Gone is a distracting day-date, indices, or numbers and what you’re left with is a lumed handset and a rose gold logo. While I shudder at the term, one can’t deny that this restraint is quiet luxury in its truest form. Coming in at just 36mm, the Twelve Halo is suitable for both men and women. The exhibition back lets one see the Sellita SW 200-1 automatic movement in action. Both models are available on an integrated steel bracelet with a price tag of $2,555. The Twelve Halo is available now via the Christopher Ward website, with delivery expected in December. Christopher Ward Images from this post: The post Christopher Ward Introduces the ...
Deployant
Ever wondered what is the ideal Chronograph watch that you can share with your partner whose not into watches while satisfying the purist in you? Enter the latest iteration of Zenith Chronomaster Original with the sleek black tricolour dial. “Wow! May I wear it for the weekend?” That’s what she said! Eventually, the Zenith wasRead More
Quill & Pad
The framed aventurine central dial of this bespoke Sartory Billard SB05 has a depth that allows us to easily imagine we are looking through a maze of galaxies toward the far edges of the universe. And framing that is a ring of meteorite, a true space material. What else makes this watch so unique?
Worn & Wound
Tool watches are, as the name suggests, utilitarian by design. When I bought an SRPG13, the green Seiko Land Tortoise with a compass bezel, I thought I was purchasing yet another tool watch with practical non-timekeeping functionality. After an overnight family backpacking trip, I’m not convinced my field watch is the useful tool I tried to force it to be. The Land Tortoise is a tool watch- in the sense that it’s technically capable of tasks beyond displaying the time. True North can be found with any analog watch by pointing the hour hand at the sun, bisecting the angle between the hour hand and the sun to find South, and then locating the opposite point to identify North. A compass bezel is an enhancement that allows the wearer to mark North after finding it. This summer our family of four is section hiking the entire Monadnock-Sunapee Greenway Trail; A 50 mile peak to peak path through New Hampshire’s backcountry. What better place to put this tool to the test than on the first section of the trip? The day before our first overnight section, as I organized gear, sprawling out sleeping pads, a tent, trekking poles and various knick-knacks across our living room floor, I made sure to put on the SRPG13. I pictured standing on a mountain top, getting the kids set up with a celebratory lunch, lining up the hour hand, and then bisecting with ease. With a real compass in my pack, I was excited to check my accuracy. Two miles away and 2000 feet above the parking lot whe...
Time+Tide
When you look at a watch, what’s the first thing you notice? Do you immediately comment on the movement, or perhaps case finishing? Of course not – it’s the dial. No matter how nice the movement is, or even how suitable the dimensions are for your wrist, the dial is the likely the one to … ContinuedThe post Everything you need to know about dial finishing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
An up close look at Grail Watch 9: Moritz Grossmann x Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 ‘Silver Bullet’. The 37mm white gold case measures 46mm from lug to lug and features a captivating sterling silver dial adorned with intricate guilloché with Clous de Paris motif and Breguet numerals. It is complemented by one of the world’s […]
SJX Watches
One of the latest releases from Roger Dubuis, the Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph, makes the most of its openworked dial to show off a newly-developed calibre, the RD780, which combines an inclined balance wheel with an integrated chronograph. A complex movement with two patents pending, the RD780 is notably elaborate with unusual features like a digital minute counter and twin barrels. And technically-minded enthusiasts will also note the RD780 boasts diamond-coated silicon escapement parts, which are both wear- and magnetism-resistant. Initial thoughts Roger Dubuis’ current chronographs distinguish themselves through bold design and flashy technical features. While the style is outlandish, it is refreshing to see this unique approach to a chronograph design, particularly since the technical features are novel and interesting, such as the inclined balance wheel and column wheel, visible through the openworked dial. But the Excalibur chronograph’s technical merits are perhaps overshadowed by the design, which is excessive in a hyper-mechanical style. The chronograph’s dial is busy, even for an openworked dial. It is not easy to read, even when compared to what is being offered by the likes of Richard Mille, which is perhaps the closest comparison to the Excalibur chronograph. The Excalibur chronograph is priced at US$101,500, making it more affordable than the equivalent from Richard Mille, the RM 72-01. In fact, the Excalibur is half as expensive as the Richar...
SJX Watches
Shortly after the release of their initial timepiece, the Carillon Tourbillon, Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre are making their debut at Only Watch with the Catharsis. A bold take on the chiming watch, this unique piece has no hands on the dial, but indicates the time with the carillon minute repeater. The dial is instead decorated with a mixture of gemstones, semi-precious stone marquetry, and guilloché to create an abstract scene depicting the Moon over a seascape. Inside is a variant of the movement as Biver’s first watch, but with an hour hand on the reverse. Initial thoughts The father-and-son duo behind Biver have to be commended for a daring debut at Only Watch, even though the watch will no doubt be polarising. They have gone extremely conceptual with the Catharsis. The idea of creating a watch with no visible way of telling the time is nothing new, having been done recently by H. Moser & Cie. in 2019 and earlier by Haldimann and Romain Jerome. However, the Catharsis aims to make a statement and chart a course for this newly minted independent brand. The aesthetics of original Biver repeater model were mixed, so this watch actually addresses that issue in a weird yet logical manner. The visual focus of the watch is the dial, which is not really a dial but a canvas for elaborate decoration. The 89 sapphires that make up the waves have been invisibly set and create a pleasing effect alongside the meteorite moon, silver obsidian sky and mother of pearl stars...
SJX Watches
For its second outing at Only Watch, Barcelona-based Atelier de Chronométrie (AdC) created the AdC30, which takes the independent watchmaker’s proven formula to a new level with an in-house movement, a new case design, and a handmade dial. Initial thoughts The AdC30 stands out from most of the other lots in the upcoming Only Watch auction due to its restraint. While most of the other lots are characterised by their use, or overuse, of bright colours, the AdC30 sticks to the mid-century motifs that have enabled the brand to establish a distinctive brand identity in just nine years – no easy feat for a brand that exclusively produces one-off watches by special order. This coherent aesthetic is no doubt thanks to founder Santi Martinez’s cultivated eye for detail. AdC’s watches are perhaps best described as a love letter to classical designs and the single-minded chronometric purpose of wristwatches of the 1940’s. Since its founding in 2014, the brand has focused on producing bespoke watches built around vintage Omega and Venus movements, which are upgraded in-house to meet contemporary haute horlogerie standards. But earlier this year, AdC introduced the AdC22 featuring the M284, the brand’s first in-house movement. The AdC30 is the second publicly announced watch to use this movement, though the gap between the model numbers (which are usually consecutive) suggests there may be other watches with this movement that have been commissioned by collectors. Rega...
Worn & Wound
The DM02 is the sophomore release from California-based micro brand Dumoreau, following the DM01 we touched on here. Designed by architect and designer Carlo Aiello, this dress watch takes his expertise in architecture and product design into the realm of the dress watch, while drawing on basic principles of proportion to create a compelling new release that slots in nicely with his debut. The dial features a two-piece construction with recessed concentric circles at the center, complemented by a brushed circular section for numerals and minute track. The indexes maintain their orientation as they encircle the dial, while the only branding present is the hand-applied Dumoreau name, seamlessly integrated into the concentric circles. The curvaceous all-polished 39mm case directs works to draw the eye to the dial, with lyre lugs providing additional visual interest. The stated goal of the design was to create a “dynamic organic geometry,” and the end result is a case with both gentle and dramatic curves that cohere nicely with the details of the dial. The screw-in sapphire caseback exposes the manually wound Sellita SW 210-1 movement, decorated with Geneva stripes and circular graining. With dimensions of 39mm wide, 46mm lug to lug, and a slim profile of 9.5mm thanks to the hand wound caliber, the DM02 is designed to fit comfortably on wrists of all sizes. Conveniently, it boasts a water resistance rating of 100 meters, uncommon for a manually wound dress watch. The DM02 ...
Time+Tide
Ace Jewelers and Elka Watch Company have teamed up to celebrate Amsterdam’s diversity. Both companies have links to the historical Dutch brand Elka. It’s available with dials in Western Arabic, Eastern Arabic, Chinese or Hebrew. Collaborations between watch brands and dealers have historically been as simple as printing a name on a dial, and sometimes … ContinuedThe post The Ace x Elka Watch Company Diversity series appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The fifth, and presumably final, installment of the Indiana Jones series hits theaters at the end of June, and with a title like Indiana Jones and the Dial of Destiny, you kind of had to expect that there would be a watch tie-in. For this film, the watch on Indy’s wrist is a Hamilton, a fitting choice given the character’s occupation (the most heroic archaeologist in cinema history) and the long history of the brand showing up in major Hollywood movies. Hamilton watches have been featured on the wrists of movie stars for nearly 100 years, worn by everyone from Elvis Presley to Matthew McConaughey (with the watch sometimes playing a critical role in the storytelling). While it remains to be seen if the watch itself is a plot point in Dial of Destiny (we’ll let you know as soon as we see the film), the Hamilton Boulton selected for this new installment helps draw in some of the finer details of one of the all-time great movie characters. Indiana Jones is a character with a well established aesthetic. He’s one of a small handful of characters that movie buffs can easily identify with only a silhouette, or by the sight of a key prop. Indy’s fedora and whip have helped to establish a specific iconography for the character since Raiders of the Lost Ark premiered in 1981, so it’s important to get the watch right as well – it has to exist within an environment that is already well established and understood by fans of the franchise. The Boulton is part of Hamilto...
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