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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.
A Week In Watches Ep. 51: TAG Heuer Opens Up The Monaco & US Made Watches From J.N. Shapiro Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet who’ve announced May 28, 2023

A Week In Watches Ep. 51: TAG Heuer Opens Up The Monaco & US Made Watches From J.N. Shapiro

In episode 51 of A Week In Watches we take a look at a trio of new Monaco watches from TAG Heuer leading into the race weekend in, well, Monaco, as well as a watch that’s taken shape almost entirely in the US of A from the workshop of J.N. Shapiro. Those two watches might be on opposite ends of the spectrum, but there’s plenty more to discuss in the middle, from a new Mathey Tissot x Massena LAB, Breitling Classic AVI watches (including one sweet re-edition), and news from Audemars Piguet, who’ve announced a new CEO to take the helm of the brand beginning next year. Plus, one spicy comment from last week’s episode. Be sure to catch next week’s episode, which marks one full year of A Week In Watches in, naturally, episode 52. It’s a special episode with Zach, Zach, and Blake taking a seat to answer questions submitted through our Worn & Wound+ Slack channel, which you can join by signing up for our weekly newsletter right here. Be sure to head over to YouTube to leave a comment on this episode and the next for a chance to be featured in an upcoming episode, and let us know your thoughts on the stories featured this week. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week In Watches Ep. 51: TAG Heuer Opens Up The Monaco & US Made Watches From J.N. Shapiro appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Watches, Stories, & Gear: Leica’s Q Series Takes a Leap Forward with Newly Released Q3, Designing the Next Timepiece for the U.K. National Rail Network & a Couple of Intriguing Announcements from the Playstation Showcase Worn & Wound
May 27, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Leica’s Q Series Takes a Leap Forward with Newly Released Q3, Designing the Next Timepiece for the U.K. National Rail Network & a Couple of Intriguing Announcements from the Playstation Showcase

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Leica Leica Releases Third Generation Of Q Series With Q3 Via Leica The Leica Q2 has developed a Swiss army knife, do-it-all reputation amongst the photography community since it was released back in 2019. With a wide 28mm Summilux lens, a macro shooting mode, and a digital zoom feature that offers an equivalent to a wide array of focal lengths, the Q2 can hold its own as a one-camera option on assignment, or as a trusty secondary shooter. Our very own Kat Shoulders and photographer Zach Piña had sung the praises of the Q2 in a recent Changing Gears podcast, but one thing they mentioned that could elevate the Q2 to greater heights would be a 40mm fixed lens. With appropriate timing, Leica announced the Q2’s successor this week with the brand new Q3. Although the next generation “Q” is still equipped with the 28mm f/1.7 Summilux (sorry Kat and Zach), it boasts updates in other areas including a 60 megapixel sensor, 8K video quality and improved auto-focusing capabilities. Via Leica The Leica Q3 features a 60 megapixel sensor from the previous 45 megapixel se...

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NFTs, Cryptocurrency, Blockchain, and web3 are Environmentally Harmful: The New Trend for Watches is Hypocritical With Self-Professed ‘Green’ Low-Carbon Claims – Reprise Quill & Pad
May 27, 2023

NFTs, Cryptocurrency, Blockchain, and web3 are Environmentally Harmful: The New Trend for Watches is Hypocritical With Self-Professed ‘Green’ Low-Carbon Claims – Reprise

The luxury watch industry depends a great deal upon credibility. Which has led to Brendan Cunningham watching with some trepidation as various watch brands have started to enter the cryptocurrency / blockchain / non-fungible token (NFT) world. Here's why he thinks that it might not be a great idea.

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TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Skeleton Dial SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces May 26, 2023

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Skeleton Dial

As has become tradition, TAG Heuer is launching a new Monaco chronograph to mark the annual Formula 1 race in the principality of the same name. While past editions for the Monaco Grand Prix leaned towards vintage in terms of style, the Monaco Skeleton Dial is almost entirely modern. Though the watch retains the trademark Monaco case and even many elements of the dial, it has no practically no dial, most of which has been removed to reveal the movement below. Initial thoughts Just like the recent Monza Flyback and Carrera “Glassbox”, the Monaco Skeleton Dial continues TAG Heuer’s pivot towards contemporary designs that its chief executive Frederic Arnault has indicated is the way forward. This is a good thing, because it allows the brand to move away from being reliant on the vintage-esque sports watches that are all too common in this price segment. The new Monaco itself manages to look very much like a Monaco while still being very different. Despite the seemingly opposite characteristics, everything works well together, although the look is certainly more appealing in the all-black iteration than its siblings. The only caveat is the price, which at about US$11,000 makes this a third more expensive than a Monaco with the same movement and case but a conventional dial. That feels like a bit too much for the open-worked dial, which admittedly required substantial reworking of the movement. Loosely vintage inspired The Monaco Skeleton Dial gets its name from, well, a...

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Sound The Alarm: Vulcain Links Up with Revolution & The Rake on Limited Edition ‘Style Moderne’ Cricket Worn & Wound
Vulcain Links Up May 25, 2023

Sound The Alarm: Vulcain Links Up with Revolution & The Rake on Limited Edition ‘Style Moderne’ Cricket

The latest iteration of Vulcain’s beloved alarm watch, aptly named the Cricket, is a collaborative limited edition piece with Revolution & The Rake. Tapping into Revolution’s enthusiasm for finely crafted timepieces and The Rake’s sartorial know-how, the Cricket gets a handsome new sector dial that harkens back to the design made popular in the 1930’s. Still keeping the foundational elements of the Cricket, the limited edition ‘Style Moderne’ is a representation of an era where design evolved from Art Deco’s flash and flare, to practical and functional, without sacrificing its appealing facade. To dive a little deeper into architectural history and terminology, Style Moderne or also known as Art Moderne emphasized movement and sleekness. It was a departure from the embellished zig zags and chevrons found in the previous decade, and a transition to more streamlined designs while maintaining some of its geometric and bold color elements. The Cricket ‘Style Moderne’ embodies that evolution with its sectioned two-tone Bellini and anthracite dial. Each layer of the dial has its own geometrical feature; the inner dial is split into four quadrants, the following Bellini layer is split into eight separate sections by several anthracite channels that flow into the outer portion of the dial. We’ve seen multiple hour marker displays within the Cricket collection, ranging from Arabic numerals, pointed markers, and a combination of both. This particular edition come...

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Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Spider-Man” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces May 25, 2023

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Spider-Man”

Two years ago, Audemars Piguet (AP) introduced the Royal Oak Concept “Black Panther”, a watch that caused a stir, to put it mildly. While the comics-and-complications combination was unorthodox, the watch was a commercial success. Now AP is following up – as promised – with its second Marvel collaboration, the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Spider-Man”. Like its predecessor, it has a miniature sculpture of the superhero as the dial and it is once again again a Royal Oak Concept, but now powered by a new calibre.  And the Royal Oak Spider-Man watch also continues the charitable tradition started by its predecessor. A unique version of the new watch, the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Black Suit Spider-Man” that depicts a black-and-silver superhero, will be sold at auction to benefit First Book and Ashoka, a pair of charities that bring education to disadvantaged youth. Initial thoughts In some ways, the Royal Oak Black Panther did not look serious enough for such an expensive watch; it was perhaps too purple. While its aesthetics were subjective, it was certainly well executed. The miniature sculpture was done well in both detail, colour, and form. The same holds true for the Royal Oak Spider-Man, but it is an altogether more attractive watch. For one, it is less purple and more monochromatic, with much of the watch being black and white, leaving only the superhero figure to convey colour. And the figure itself is better positioned in that it allows more of t...

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Kurono Tokyo Closes Out the Calendrier I Series with the Maroon Dialed “Azuki” Anniversary Edition Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo Closes Out May 25, 2023

Kurono Tokyo Closes Out the Calendrier I Series with the Maroon Dialed “Azuki” Anniversary Edition

The latest from Kurono Tokyo is a new version of their Calendrier Type I, a reference that was a finalist in the 2022 GPHG awards. A triple calendar is an old school complication, so it makes sense for a brand like Kurono to experiment on this platform, with their design language so deeply rooted in Art Deco principles and mid 20th century ideas around size and style. The new Calendrier is a Kurono anniversary model, thus it will be sold as a “time limited” edition, meaning prospective owners will have specific windows during which they can make a purchase, and Kurono will fill every order placed in these windows. Kurono has also announced that this will be the final version of the Calendrier Type I, so if this is a reference you’ve been hunting, we’re approaching your last chance to snag one directly from the brand.  Kurono has dubbed this model the Anniversary Calendrier “Azuki,” a name derived from the maroon color of the dial. Azuki means “red bean” in Japanese, and in Japan is a color commonly associated with cars. Maroon was once a common standard vehicle color, so this watch is subtly auto inspired and a throwback in more ways than one.  According to the brand, achieving this particular tone of maroon was a significant challenge. To get the color right, Kurono used phosphor-bronze rather than the typical brass for the dial material, which allows them to get the proper shade of red during the finishing process. Kurono notes that phosphor-bronze is m...

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Andreas Strehler Introduces the Strehler Sirna SJX Watches
May 25, 2023

Andreas Strehler Introduces the Strehler Sirna

Accomplished but relatively low key, Andreas Strehler is launching a new brand known simply as Strehler, which aims to reach a wider audience with more accessible prices. Mr. Strehler’s stated aim of the Sirna is to offer collectors a simple daily wearer that embodies the technical mastery he has become known for. The brand’s opening act is the Sirna, named after the town of Sirnach in northeastern Switzerland where the manufacture is based. Strehler marks a departure from Mr. Strehler’s previous work in terms of aesthetics. While his earlier (and pricier) creations emphasised his distinctive papillon, or “butterfly”, movement architecture and resulting cushion-shaped case, the Sirna is more traditional in form. It is a strong debut for the new brand and a sign of good things to come. Initial thoughts I’ve always admired Mr Strehler’s watches from an intellectual standpoint, but his cushion-cased designs have never resonated with me on an aesthetic level. Naturally, I am thrilled to see Mr. Strehler’s work arrive in a more traditionally-styled package. The Sirna appears to exudes quality – unsurprising given Mr Strehler’s reputation for good work. It’s enough of a reputation that other independent watchmakers turn to him for components and movements (more on that below). Even obscure details like the engravings on the case back look to be satisfyingly crisp and precise. And the patterned titanium dial is the star, though deceptively simple in style, i...

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De Bethune Introduces the DB28xs Starry Seas SJX Watches
De Bethune Introduces May 25, 2023

De Bethune Introduces the DB28xs Starry Seas

The latest version of De Bethune’s signature watch shrinks the case and ups the level of dial decoration. The DB28xs Starry Seas has a compact case of just 38.7 mm and an eye-catching dial finished a wave pattern and inlaid white gold stars in typical De Bethune style. Initial thoughts Originally a large watch with a case of 43 mm, the DB28 nonetheless became the brand’s trademark watch thanks to its distinctive styling and hinged lugs. So a more wearable version of the DB28 will certainly have is audience. In fact, the case of 38.7 mm is more than manageable, it is almost small by the standards of highly contemporary independent watchmaking.  With the reduced case, however, the DB28xs might have lost some of the presence that made the original DB28 interesting, although that will have to be judged in the metal. Besides the case, the other novel feature of the watch is the wave pattern on the dial that’s complemented by inlaid gold stars, which is meant to evoke the night sky reflected on water. The wave pattern is new for De Bethune, adding some originality to this variant of the DB28. While the dial is beautiful – De Bethune’s blued titanium dials usually are – and the case remains appealing even on a smaller scale, I would have hoped that the brand did something more inventive, rather than create variants of existing designs and movements.    Apart from the dial and case, the DB28xs is largely identical to its larger siblings, including utilising the same...

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Graf von Faber-Castell Pen of the Year 2022 . . . Plus Five More from Previous Years – Reprise Quill & Pad
May 25, 2023

Graf von Faber-Castell Pen of the Year 2022 . . . Plus Five More from Previous Years – Reprise

Faber-Castell introduced its first Pen of the Year in 2003 and has annually introduced a limited edition pen with a very specific theme ever since. Each tells the tale of a person, a place, or an era that helped “shape the development of humanity,” according to the company. The Pen of the Year 2022 is inspired by the influential Aztec civilization.

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