Deployant
New: Bianchet Tourbillon B1.618 Openwork Orange Carbon
Another newish (est 2017) independent brand Bianchet releases a new version of their only watch - the Tourbillon B1.618 now in Orange Openwork.
22,720 articles · 212 videos found · page 571 of 765
Deployant
Another newish (est 2017) independent brand Bianchet releases a new version of their only watch - the Tourbillon B1.618 now in Orange Openwork.
Time+Tide
Often you’ll hear of a watch that stands out from the crowd, does something novel or makes a splash in its category. The Baume & Mercier Hampton takes a different approach, however. By virtue of its Art Deco-inspired, architectural cases, they look to be the perfect everyday watch, without evoking excess excitement or attention. Backed … ContinuedThe post The Baume & Mercier Hampton embodies Art Deco sophistication appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Delma brings back the Quattro, originally presented in the 1980s and having garnered significant popularity in the US market, now upgraded with modern materials and an automatic movement. But the new Delma Quattro aims to be more than just a run-of-the-mill dive watch, with specs worthy of plenty of reef cred. No-nonsense diver’s layout Round features … ContinuedThe post The Delma Quattro is a deep-dive special with plenty of reef cred appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
A gold watch. What do you think of when I say those words? A gaudy piece of jewellery that shows you have more money than taste. Or maybe the ultimate flex. Well, when I think of my favourite precious metal, I think of what it is a brand is trying to accomplish with its use. … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The ecstasy of Moser’s new Gold Streamliner appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
By Galli, this is a great watch.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Rolex Explorer is in many ways the quintessential dressy tool watch from Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual collection - less flashy than the GMT-Master, less bulky than the Submariner, while still rooted, like those two models, in a history of adventure and discovery. While it has changed very little since the 1950s, today’s Rolex Explorer is the culmination of many decades of aesthetic and technical evolution, guided by a watchmaker for whom the subtlest details make all the difference in the world to its avid legions of fans. Underpinning the Explorer: Oyster Case and Perpetual Caliber The Rolex Explorer, like all Oyster Perpetual timepieces in Rolex’s Professional collection, is an expression of two technical milestones that Rolex and its visionary founder Hans Wisdorf contributed to watchmaking history. The first is the so-called Oyster case, developed in 1926, which revolutionized the construction of watch cases with its dustproof, waterproof, hermetically sealed structure, secured by a threaded caseback and a crown that screwed tightly into the case. In 1931, Rolex made history again with the creation of its first “Perpetual” movement (below), whose self-winding mechanism was driven by an oscillating rotor. The marriage of these two inventions gave rise to the “Oyster Perpetual” line of timepieces that remain at the heart of Rolex’s collection today, beginning with the Datejust in 1945 and coming to full fruition with the tool-oriented, yet still luxuri...
Time+Tide
If you haven’t been watching or listening to the About Efffing Time (AET) podcast, co-hosted by Adrian Barker of Bark & Jack, George Bamford of Bamford Watch Department, and our very own Andrew McUtchen, well… it is about effing time you did. Each bi-weekly episode revolves around a dedicated topic, and is followed by a … ContinuedThe post “They wanted $50K, I gave them $2M” – Jean-Claude Biver on how he got Bond for Omega appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The human brain is a curious thing. Having written many a review and introducing post, I feel like I’ve become increasingly more selective about the type of watch I really like. While my interests evolved, one constant has been my aloofness towards skeletonisation. Then the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton happened, and completely blew me … ContinuedThe post How the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton changed my perception of openworking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Big brands are now making beautiful, reliable, and relatively accurate “traditional” mechanical watches, but the handcrafted work many of us value is disappearing. Highly skilled watchmakers and artisans are rare and expensive: there just aren’t enough of them available to churn out the large quantity of nice watches now being sold. And why bother when nobody seems to have noticed?
Hodinkee
And Tommy Lee Jones follows suit in our watch-related, '90s-themed, movie of the week.
Quill & Pad
The Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Heures Florales is first and foremost about being a piece of mechanical art, reminiscent of MB&F;, only entirely realized for lovers of nature, precious stones, and poetry. Telling the time is secondary, but that doesn't make it any less horologically stupendous.
Hodinkee
Short-form watch videos, the HODINKEE way.
SJX Watches
Short for “Franc Vila Founder”, FVF is a tale of redemption. Founded by the namesake designer, FVF is the second act of the Spanish watch designer, one he embarked on after his first went off the rails as many independent watch brands tend to do. FVF’s inaugural watch is the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero. It’s an original look and at a glance there’s nothing linking it to the creations of the original Franc Vila brand – a good thing in my estimation. But look closely and hints of the earlier designs emerge. Most importantly the FVF1 reveals itself as an impressively executed watch – the movement has an interesting construction, excellent finishing, and an original aesthetic. Mr Vila has made his comeback in style. NB: The watch pictured is a prototype that’s been worn so it shows wear. The FVF1 has a flying tourbillon, roller day indicator, day and night display, and a 100-hour power reserve Rising from the ashes Born in Valencia but now a longtime resident of Switzerland, Mr Vila founded his namesake brand in 2005 and rode the wave that buoyed modern, flamboyant independent watchmaking for the next decade or so. Propelled by Mr Vila’s convivial personality, Franc Vila became one of the hot brands of the era. During those heady days, it could sell several dozen tourbillons and minute repeaters a year, making it one of the top clients of now-defunct complications specialist BNB Concept. A classic from the original Franc Vila brand, the Tourbillon Planèta...
Time+Tide
The art of the vintage-inspired watch, especially when done by a young brand such as Baltic, is in honouring the allure of the past while remaining relevant to a modern audience. Nostalgia has always played a big part in human culture, but we must also accept that there is no stopping the flow of time … ContinuedThe post The Baltic x Peter Auto Tricompax is a racing chronograph with retro swagger appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Green, green, oh… green. In 2021, green was the undisputed colour of the year with every watch manufacture under the sun presenting a design in the hue. Sure, you can’t go wrong with a black or white dial – their versatility is unmatched. But collectors need colour to liven up their watch boxes, and even … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: Is this green Omega Seamaster 300 the most attractive ever? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
In the last great era of print media, watch ads were glorious.
Teddy Baldassarre
Tracing its roots to the 19th Century but bursting on the cultural scene on the cusp of the 21st, Panerai is an overnight success more than 100 years in the making. From humble and very utilitarian beginnings as a maker of tools and instruments for military divers in the 1930s, the Florentine watchmaker has become a powerhouse in the luxury sector, its unapologetically militaristic and indisputably masculine designs blurring the lines between tool watch and luxury item like few brands before or since. Here is the story of Officine Panerai and an overview of the modern Panerai watch collections. Guido Panerai and the First Radiomir Giovanni Panerai opened his watchmaking shop on Ponte Alle Grazie in Florence in 1860, and with the help of his son Leon Franceso built it into the ancestral Italian city’s first retailer of Swiss watches as well as its first watchmaking school. When Giovanni’s grandson Guido took over the business, near the turn of the century - and acquired his wife’s family business, which made tools and hardware for military use, including combat sights, compasses and depth gauges - it had become essentially two companies: Orologerie Svizzera, the shop that sold prestigious Swiss watch brands like Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Rolex; and Guido Panerai & Figlio, primarily a supplier of precision instruments and diving equipment to the Royal Italian Navy, or Regia Marina. As a military provider, Panerai recognized the need early on f...
Time+Tide
Every brand with even the most remote link to a vintage catalogue has jumped on the opportunity to reissue their old watches, but there has been a glaring hole in that strategy for years. While it feels like we’ve seen almost every kind of men’s watch a hundred times over, the world of women’s wristwatches … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulova American Girl “K” shows why more brands should look to their women’s range for vintage reissues appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The first Chinese watch brand to win at the GPHG is a poetic and potent example of watchmaking's continued global evolution.
Hodinkee
Tyler Lyle's watch collection is built around making memories and overcoming challenges.
SJX Watches
Since it acquired Geneva complications specialist La Fabrique du Temps in 2012 Louis Vuitton has been steadily growing and refining its complicated watch offering. Last year it debuted the Carpe Diem minute repeater with automaton, the most complex watch LDFT has developed to date. But the signature completion of Louis Vuitton (LV) is still the patented three-dimensional jumping hours known as Spin Time. The complication relies on 12 cubes to indicate the hours, rotating one by one every hour. Since its introduction in 2009, the Spin Time has been iterated into a variety of formats, including a GMT, regatta countdown chronograph, and most recently a glow-in-the-dark extravaganza. But its most refined form is arguably the Spin Time Air launched in 2019 that has a dozen “floating” cubes arrayed around a movement suspended between the front and back crystals. Initial thoughts The Spin Time Air has all the elements of an interesting watch. Both transparent and striking, the “floating” display brings to mind historical mystery timepieces, with the tall Tambour case serving as the perfect frame for the suspended display. But it is the cubic hour display sets it apart. The hour display is truly unique, even when compared against the most exotic in independent watchmaking. It brings to mind Urwerk’s cubic display found in the UR-210, but that’s a three-dimensional reinterpretation of the wandering hours, whereas the Spin Time is actually an innovative take on the jum...
Time+Tide
The watch space has arguably never been more exciting and this is largely due to the rise of independents and microbrands. To permeate through so many established brands, these smaller players know they need to deliver standout timepieces – whether through distinct aesthetics or exceptional value propositions. One independent that has definitely caught the attention of … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The Horage Supersede is an indy GMT that overdelivers on expectations appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Based in the capital city of the Netherlands, Fratello Watches is a watch magazine best known for having coined the social media hashtag “Speedy Tuesday” dedicated to the Omega Moonwatch. But its latest announcement comes from the realm of independent watchmaking in the form of the Fratello x Louis Moinet Memoris Spirit 40 Chronograph Limited Edition. A new take on Louis Moinet’s signature chronograph, the Fratello edition will be available on its website on August 16. The 25-piece limited edition employs orange accents to dress up the open-worked aesthetic of the Memoris Spirit, which has a laterally-coupled, column wheel-equipped chronograph constructed on the dial. Initial thoughts More compact than past Louis Moinet chronographs, the Memoris Spirit 40 is wearable and lightweight, although it remains a notably thick watch due to the height of the movement. The height is justified because the watch is all about the movement, which is obviously interesting. All of the intricacies of the chronograph mechanism are exhibited on the dial, making it one of the few watches to have a traditional chronograph set-up visible on the front. However, the base movement relies on the architecture of the Valjoux 7750, which is a good thing from a reliability and functionality perspective, though one would hope for something fancier at this price point. The styling of the watch is simpler than the average Louis Moinet, but still elaborately conceived. The lugs, for instance, are ope...
Time+Tide
During my time at Time+Tide, the flow of curious timekeepers coming across my desk has been constant, yet, the CIGA Design Blue Planet stands out as one of the more notable ones. As the first Chinese brand to ever win an award at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, claiming the Challenge Watch Prize in … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The CIGA Design Blue Planet won a GPHG award, yet is still surprisingly affordable appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
It seems that watches are here to stay, at least for the foreseeable future, as a mainstream fashion category. With the good comes the bad, of course, and one characteristic is that it attracts a set of well-off, low-information buyers. GaryG shares his tips for navigating uncertainty in watch collecting in 2022.
Hodinkee
Vintage watches and superheroes come together in our watch-related movie of the week.
Time+Tide
Zach has just departed on a well-deserved holiday and is currently basking on a sun-lounger wearing a Hawaiian shirt loud enough to make your ears ring. So it’s up to me to pick up the Wind Down slack and bring you a few bulletins from the watch world this week. First up, take a minute … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Grand Seiko 9F GMTs, gift-giving footballers and Louis Monet x Fratello appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Continuing the brand’s well-known intentions to liven up the Calatrava, Patek Philippe unveiled a brand-new take on its quintessential dress watch at Watches & Wonders earlier this year, the Calatrava ref. 5226G-01. The ref. 5226G indicates where the Calatrava line is going – more contemporary design, albeit still informed by vintage models hence the faux vintage lume, which is enhanced with sharper and higher quality detailing. Despite an entry-level watch of sorts (despite a substantial price tag), the ref. 5226G is nonetheless elaborately executed. The hobnail decoration found on last year’s ref. 6119 “Clous de Paris”, for instance, has been repurposed and applied to the case band. The dial gets a pronounced grained finish And the case a clous de Paris decoration Initial thoughts I first encountered the ref. 5226G in larger-than-life format when it appeared on the floor-to-ceiling display on the side of Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders. The scale of the projection meant the patterned dial and hobnail case were instantly obvious. Though unexpected elements in an entry-level Patek Philippe, they work well together, both on screen and in real life. Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders 2022 with its oversized digital display. Image – Watches & Wonders When I tried on the watch during the fair, my positive impression was reinforced. Even though the ref. 5226G is a combination of elements not usually put together, it is compelling and appealing in the metal. ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Stainless steel sport-luxury watches are definitely having a moment in the watch collectors' spotlight lately, but the enduring appeal of gold watches remains undeniable. Timepieces in precious metals not only project a confident aura of elegance; they also represent a tangible value that can be passed on to future generations. Of course, gold watches tend to be a much more significant investment in terms of price than watches in steel, but watch connoisseurs of more modest means have a fair amount of options as well when it comes to achieving that classic gold look, from plated and PVD-treated models to bi-material (aka two-tone) timepieces that blend some gold elements with steel. In this compilation, we'll list some of our favorites in those more budget-conscious categories as well as some recent standouts in the most popular styles: yellow-gold, rose-gold, and white-gold. GOLD TONE: Those seeking their first gold watch may want to consider some of these gold-plated and PVD options from respected brands that are known for solid quality and attractive designs at attainable prices. Casio Vintage Gold A168GW-9VT Price: $65, Reference: A168GW-9VT, Case Size: 38.6mm x 36.3mm, Case Height: 9.6mm, Crystal: Resin Glass, Water Resistance: Water-Resistant, Movement: Quartz Digital While its most iconic contribution to the watch world is undoubtedly the mega-popular G-Shock, Japan’s Casio offers different styles of digital timekeeping in its retro-influenced Vintage series, t...
Hodinkee
Motion City Soundtrack's Jesse Johnson has a collection that epitomizes watch nerdery.
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