Revolution
A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen”
Lange announces their fifth Lumen, which for the first time is in Honeygold with the Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” ref. 142.055 (200 pieces)
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SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Zeitwerk Honey Gold “Lumen”
Having launched the second-generation Zeitwerk movement two years ago with a date display, A. Lange & Söhne has now upgraded the base model with the same calibre – except it’s not exactly a base model. Limited to 200 watches, the Zeitwerk Honey Gold “Lumen” reimagines the Zeitwerk Phantom of 2010, but with a second-generation movement – which means a longer power reserve and quickset hours – and a case in 18k Honeygold, the brand’s proprietary gold alloy. Initial thoughts Lange is certainly introducing second-generation Zeitwerk in style. The combination of Honeygold and the tinted sapphire dial is striking – it is a good looking watch – while the improved movement removes all of the inconveniences of the first-generation calibre. It is essentially a revisit of the Zeitwerk Phantom, but that takes nothing away from it. Enough time has passed since the Phantom that an encore is welcome, and it is also different enough with the Honeygold case and second-generation calibre. The only bit I wish was different is the red marking on the power reserve indicator. I’m not a fan because it jumps out relative to the rest of the dial, and adds colour to what should be a monochromatic design. At €114,000 the new Zeitwerk is a chunk of change but it’s not exorbitant considering the complication. And perhaps more relevant is the fact the secondary market values for past Lumen editions have escalated rapidly, which makes this inexpensive in comparison. Mechanic...
Time+Tide
What the Patek Phillipe 5095/1A potentially suggests about the future of the brand in steel
Recently Patek Philippe introduced three new chronographs with complications: the 5905/1A, 5204-011, and 5930P-001. Standing out amongst the trio, to many, was the ref. 5905/1A – the first ever 5905 Annual Calendar Flyback Chronograph to be released in stainless steel. Not only does the watch have a stainless-steel case, but also a matching stainless-steel bracelet … ContinuedThe post What the Patek Phillipe 5095/1A potentially suggests about the future of the brand in steel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S PICK: How Arnold Schwarzenegger made the Seiko H558-5000 the ultimate tough-guy watch
EDITOR’S PICK: Today, my brother-in-law, Pete, is doing a 24-hour bike ride to raise money and support of families affected by stillbirth and SIDS. The really crazy bit – he’s doing the entire 500km ride on a stationary bike in his garage (you can sponsor the heroic bastard right here). Anyway figuring he could probably do with a … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: How Arnold Schwarzenegger made the Seiko H558-5000 the ultimate tough-guy watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Doomed affairs & dumb tycoons - the stories behind the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Hidden Treasures
Part of me ever so slightly pities whoever is at the helm of Jaeger-LeCoultre in 10 years time. This year, after all, was merely the 90th birthday of the brand’s iconic Reverso, but the celebratory output was wildly impressive. Which begs the question: what the hell are they going to do to top all that … ContinuedThe post Doomed affairs & dumb tycoons – the stories behind the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Hidden Treasures appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Diver’s Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Some Underwater Consensus
In the 2021 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève Diver's category we see a mix of tool watches that one might actually choose to use underwater as a dive computer backup and “desk divers” that will see their toughest duty during a light rain shower on the way to the office. In this round table, our panelists pick their choices as the best dive watch of 2021.
Time+Tide
DON’T FEED THE HYPE: 3 alternatives to the Rolex Explorer II ref. 226570
It is time for another round of “Don’t Feed the Hype“. As a refresher for those who may not have seen previous entries in the series, my goal is to showcase readily available alternatives that provide a similar essence or merit to watches that have become increasingly unobtainable. It is my hope that these lesser … ContinuedThe post DON’T FEED THE HYPE: 3 alternatives to the Rolex Explorer II ref. 226570 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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High End Bicycles: presenting the Giant Propel with Shimano Ultegra
We showcase the Giant Propel Advanced 1 Disc of a friend, equipped with the Giant SLR wheelset and Shimano Ultegra groupset.
Quill & Pad
Louis Moinet Space Revolution 2021: Science Fiction Fantasy Space Battle On The Wrist
The Louis Moinet Space Revolution for 2021 displays two tourbillons orbiting the dial in opposite directions. But that’s not all: each of these tourbillons carries a little titanium spaceship on its “tail” to create an epic science fiction space battle on the wrist!
Time+Tide
The frankly unbelievable story of a green Nautilus donated to the Loupe This auction site is actually 100% legit
It’s the kind of anecdote that immediately causes the eyes to squint, and all internal radars for shadiness sweep madly across the story points. A consignor sends an email to Eric Ku and Justin Gruenberg, founders of Loupe This, an online watch auction platform that we’ve covered here, saying that he wanted to “let go” of … ContinuedThe post The frankly unbelievable story of a green Nautilus donated to the Loupe This auction site is actually 100% legit appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Massena Lab Introduces the Old School by Luca Soprana
Following a slew of affordable, vintage-inspired watches, with several made by Habring2, Massena Lab has moved decidedly upmarket with the Old School. The time-only wristwatch retains a typical of the American watch-design studio – once again vintage inspired with a sector-like dial – but boasts a significantly more refined finishing. The model name is a play on words – a reference to its classical design but also the watch is meant to evoke a montre d’école, or “school watch” in English, the graduation project of a watchmaking student. Despite the academic inspiration, the Old School is the work of an experienced watchmaker, Luca Soprana, who cofounded Ateliers 7h38, the complication workshop best known for the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon. Initial thoughts Massena Lab founder William Rohr is an industry veteran – amongst other things he’s been managing director of Antiquorum Switzerland and consultant to Bonhams – who has cultivated a sharp eye for design an details. Mr Rohr also has a finger on the current pulse of watch collecting, and the Old School unsurprisingly encapsulates what many enthusiasts currently desire. The design and movement feature traditional elements that are popular now. It’s not meant to be an intriguing or creative product – it is old school after all – but instead a simple watch executed well. One element that illustrates Mr Massena’s keen eye is the dial. The simple design has just enough flair to make it attrac...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Old School by Massena LAB x Luca Soprana
Once upon a time, I applied for a very prestigious and selective watchmaking school here in the USA. Sadly, I did not make the cut, which was probably fair given that I do not have the steadiest hands. A silver lining to this story is that, after my time working as a watch specialist for … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Old School by Massena LAB x Luca Soprana appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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New: Vacheron Constantin “Year of the Tiger”
, Vacheron Constantin releases the new Métiers d’Art The legend of the Chinese zodiac - Year of the tiger in 2 limited editions - rose gold and platinum.
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INTRODUCING: With its first movement, the Bremont Longitude is a statement of bold intent
In July, Bremont announced the grand opening of The Wing, a 35,000 square foot, state-of-the-art watchmaking facility on the edge of Henley-on-Thames. This was a statement of intent for the British brand as part of a move towards increased in-house production of parts without the reliance on a non-domestic supply chain. But delving behind The … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: With its first movement, the Bremont Longitude is a statement of bold intent appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
WatchTime New York Returns, Showcasing Some Of The Most Stunning Timepieces Of 2021
WatchTime New York is back! With 28 participating watch brands set to showcase their latest watches, the fair takes place at Midtown Manhattan’s Gotham Hall from October 22 through 24, 2021. Here Sabine Zwettler highlights three new timepieces from A. Lange & Söhne, Armin Strom, and Bovet that will be showing for the first time in North America there.
Time+Tide
Don’t Miss This: Our team debates the best watches from $3K-5K USD
After debating the best watches under $1,000 USD and the best watches from $1,000 – $3,000 USD, the next tier we are going to tackle in our Don’t Miss This series are the best watches from $3K-5K USD. Traditionally speaking, the luxury watch segment really kicks off in the $3000 USD and above price point – … ContinuedThe post Don’t Miss This: Our team debates the best watches from $3K-5K USD appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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New: The Naked Watchmaker “Understanding Watchmaking” Foundation Masterclass. Sign up here!
The Naked Watchmaker releases a Foundation Masterclass, "Understanding Watchmaking". We took the course, and report on it.
Revolution
Available in the Shop: 4 IWC Pilot’s Watches Ready for Flight
IWC’s Pilot’s Watch family has a long, rich tradition of precision military timekeepers dating back to 1936. From the iconic Mark XI to the revival in the 90s, aviation watches are defined by their legibility and reliability. That’s something that holds true today, whether you’re talking about a modern Top Gun chronograph or a hit limited edition like the Mark XVIII ‘Tribute to Mark XI’.
Revolution
Jaeger-LeCoutre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel Hidden Treasures Collection
Jaeger-LeCoutre introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel Hidden Treasures Collection, featuring the works of three celebrated artists from the early days of Modern Art
Time+Tide
Spike Lee & Artisans De Genève Part 2: The Cool Hand Brooklyn Skeleton
Custom. A word rarely used in the world of horology. The watches we wear, by and large, are the results of someone else’s designs. Someone else’s passions. We buy into their vision of what works. And even when we do have a say, as one may see with a piece unique, we’re still limited to … ContinuedThe post Spike Lee & Artisans De Genève Part 2: The Cool Hand Brooklyn Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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INTRODUCING: The IWC x Hot Wheels Racing Works Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition
While many people around the world are passionate about watches, they are generally not their sole obsessions. Within our community, many are also enamoured with all manner of other things ranging from whiskey to baseball. But one area of interest that that seems to overlap with watches a great deal is that of motorsports. While … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The IWC x Hot Wheels Racing Works Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Peren Introduces the Nera Rogue Diver
Founded by Romanian native Andy Bica-Popi but based in Switzerland, Peren styles itself as a Transylvanian watch brand. The micro-brand’s offerings are characterised by a clean, functional aesthetic, a style encapsulated by the Nera Rogue. Peren’s first dive watch is loosely inspired by the Tornek-Rayville TR-900, a rare and obscure dive watch that’s actually a rebadged Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, which the Swiss watchmaker made for its American agent who in turn supplied them to the US Navy in the 1960s. Utilitarian and cleanly styled, the Nera Rogue takes after the TR-900, which is reflected in the hour markers and bezel, but is evidently not a vintage remake. And in a nod to today’s fashionable colour, the Nera Rogue has dark-green dial. Initial thoughts Granted, the population of micro-brands is ever increasing, especially those making dive watches, but a handful are both interesting and affordable enough to be worth a second look. Since micro-brands typically rely on the same few outsourced movements (often Sellita or Miyota), it falls to design to distinguish one from another. And Peren manages to set itself apart – albeit only on the second try. The Nera Rogue is actually Peren’s second go at the design. What’s really new on the Nera Rogue is actually its bezel – which is the primary element inspired by the TR-900 – while the rest of the watch is actually identical to a past model known as the Nera that was equipped with a smooth, unmarked bezel, m...
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Just in: First impressions and Live pictures of the new Patek Philippe Ref. 5204R
Review of the new Patek Philippe Ref. 5204R-011 Split-seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar, and present our quick impressions and live photographs.
Time+Tide
What the interview with the Seiko president could mean for the brand’s future
In many ways, the goings-on of a watch brand are heavily guarded secrets to us collectors. Yes, we can guesstimate what is happening behind those large manufacture doors but, really, we have no clue. That is, of course, until someone spills the beans. Maybe it’s someone from public relations or a Powerpoint presentation leaked from … ContinuedThe post What the interview with the Seiko president could mean for the brand’s future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Chronograph Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Five Panelists, Four Different Favorites To Win
Timepieces entered into the Chronograph category are mechanical watches comprising at least one chronograph indication, and here only two of the entries are brand-new models. Our panel has very differing opinions as to which of these six chronographs will (or should) win. Follow the discussion here!
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon collection expands with stunning dial variations
In 2020, we all gushed over the Master Control series that Jaeger-LeCoultre had given a facelift. They were clean, endearing and simple in a way that could never come close to being boring. In 2021, we’re treated to an expansion of another old favourite in the Master Ultra Thin Moon, with that first black dial … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon collection expands with stunning dial variations appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Classics Revisited: Hands-On with the MB&F; Horological Machine 2 (HM2)
When MB&F; debuted its first timepiece – the Horological Machine 1 – in 2007, it changed the way we view watches. It also paved the way for the vibrant independent watchmaking scene that we are so accustomed to today. Chances are, for the younger collectors, MB&F; is probably the first independent watch brand that oneRead More
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MICRO MONDAYS: The Circula SuperSport brings real Super-compressor Diver funtionality
Super-compressor styled divers exist in many microbrand catalogues. The wearability of the design and the integration of the timing bezel are two of the main reasons they are so popular. However, many of these examples lack the real functionality their vintage-inspired references had. That’s why when a brand goes to the extra lengths to create … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Circula SuperSport brings real Super-compressor Diver funtionality appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
You Are There: Attending The Jaeger-LeCoultre Sound Maker Exhibition In New York City
When Brendan Cunningham learned of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Sound Maker exhibition in New York, he quickly decided to attend and participate in the accompanying Atelier d’Antoine, a 1.5-hour workshop to discover why watches go "tick tock" and how time can be expressed. He shares his experiences here.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGY008 offers a subtle masterclass in the use of diamonds
Many of Grand Seiko’s latest offerings have sought to transfer the beauty of the environment to our wrists. By using the elements seen around their design studios as inspiration, they’ve created ethereally beautiful models such as the SLGH005 “White Birch” and the Four Seasons collection. With one of their latest creations, the brand has struck … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGY008 offers a subtle masterclass in the use of diamonds appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.