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Best of 2022: Independent Watchmaking SJX Watches
Dec 22, 2022

Best of 2022: Independent Watchmaking

Twenty twenty-two will undoubtedly be the best year on record for the luxury-watch industry. Swiss watch exports recorded their highest ever monthly value in November 2022 and the total for the year will top CHF24 billion, another all-time record. Despite the stellar year – or perhaps because of it – the “novelties” for 2022 are fairly muted. Lots of nice watches made their debut during the year, but the truly outstanding and significant launches were sparse. That could be for a few reasons, including supply chain disruptions due to the pandemic or that brands simply didn’t need to try too hard since sales were easy. During Watches & Wonders, a chief executive of a high-end independent brand conceded that it was better to conserve ammunition for the inevitable slowdown. Watches & Wonders 2022, where sales were easy to come by. Image – Watches & Wonders Even if the genuinely notable were few, the volume of new releases was consistently high throughout the year. And it wasn’t just new models from existing brands, but also new faces, especially in the independent watchmaking space. There was plenty to keep watch aficionados occupied throughout the year.  Still, the year’s top watches are pretty obvious. The very best will be remembered a decade from now as a significant or important watch. Other picks simply have soul and authenticity. With that in mind, our team compiled the year’s best in each of the major categories, ranging from establishment favourit...

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INTRODUCING: The Tutima Patria Small Second Blue & Gold Time+Tide
Tutima Dec 22, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Tutima Patria Small Second Blue & Gold

With its name first appearing on watches as early as 1927, Tutima have had a tumultuous yet resilient history. You may not be as familiar with them as some other German watchmakers, but they nonetheless excel in all corners. This latest release for the brand is quite a unique take on a traditional dress watch, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Tutima Patria Small Second Blue & Gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Training The Next Generation Of A. Lange & Söhne Watchmakers: 25 Years And Counting Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Sohne Dec 20, 2022

Training The Next Generation Of A. Lange & Söhne Watchmakers: 25 Years And Counting

Not long after Walter Lange reestablished his forefathers’ company A. Lange & Söhne, once Germany’s most famous watch manufacture, he recognized that training the next generation of watchmakers would be crucial for both the long-term prosperity of his company and the local watchmaking industry and population. Sabine Zwettler takes a look at how that training has evolved.

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Pushing case design with the Hublot MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis 5-Day Power Reserve Time+Tide
Hublot MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis 5-Day Dec 20, 2022

Pushing case design with the Hublot MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis 5-Day Power Reserve

What is a watch case? Is it simply a container for the movement? The frame to a beautiful piece of art? For Hublot it seems the case is much more and should be a continuation of the design. And nowhere do we see this ideology play out better than in the new Hublot MP-09 Tourbillon … ContinuedThe post Pushing case design with the Hublot MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis 5-Day Power Reserve appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Seiko Introduces the Prospex SPB333, “White Birch” for Less SJX Watches
Grand Seiko White Birch” Initial thoughts Dec 20, 2022

Seiko Introduces the Prospex SPB333, “White Birch” for Less

As is its habit, Seiko is marking the 110th anniversary of its first-ever wristwatch with a series of limited editions starting with the recent Presage SBP359. Now the Japanese watchmaker unveils the Prospex Save the Ocean “Seiko Watchmaking 110th Anniversary” based on its “turtle” dive watch but featuring a patterned dial reminiscent of the popular Grand Seiko “White Birch”. Initial thoughts When Seiko first announced limited editions for the 110th anniversary, I was expecting a reissue of the original Laurel wristwatch, which turned out to be spot on. But as a longtime fan of Seiko dive watches, I was hoping for something based on the “Turtle” for the occasion. Well, I am happy to say that the SPB333 does not disappoint. Though it is easily recognisable as a “Turtle”, it is clear that thought went into the styling. Its designers used the classic diver as a template for gentle experimentation and the result certainly delivers. The dial is beautiful and certainly fancier than that on the average Seiko diver. Though ostensibly inspired by glaciers, the textured dial certainly brings to mind the popular “White Birch” pattern found on several Grand Seiko models. This level of dial decoration on a “tool” watch places the SPB333 on my Christmas wish list. Pattern aside, I do have some bones to pick with the dial design, specifically the date window between four and five o’clock. I find date windows on Seiko divers are far better in the cust...

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Jaquet Droz Introduces the Rolling Stones Automaton SJX Watches
Casio n Dec 18, 2022

Jaquet Droz Introduces the Rolling Stones Automaton

Since playing their first note in 1962, the Rolling Stones have become one of the most iconic rock bands of all time, with music that has transcended generations and left a lasting impact on pop culture. Led by the charismatic Mick Jagger, the Rolling Stones are now in their 60th year, an occasion that is being marked by Jaquet Droz with the Rolling Stones Automaton. A signature timepiece of Jaquet Droz, the automaton watch is  traditionally decorated with themes from the natural world (and occasionally the fantasy realm of dragons and elves). But the tribute to the Rolling Stones instead reproduces their instruments and rebellious album covers on a rotating vinyl record. Initial thoughts Automatons by Jaquet Droz are beguiling thanks to the attention to detail evident in each watch, most of which are made to the client’s specifications and thus unique. The Rolling Stones Automaton very much personifies that ethos but in a very different way. It combines the brand’s trademark micro-automaton with late-20th century pop culture and manages to captures the spirit of the rock icons. Admittedly, there was some trepidation when I first saw the watch. It did seem a bit kitschy and more like a concert souvenir than a piece of mechanical art. And it departs from Jaquet Droz’s usual fare of elegant, artisanal timepieces like the Magic Lotus Automaton. But then again, the watch is clearly targeted at a very specific audience: the diehard “Stones” fan who appreciates f...

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The Independedit: Habring² Doppel 38 Time+Tide
Dec 18, 2022

The Independedit: Habring² Doppel 38

In this intermittent new series, we’ll be looking to highlight the most interesting new independent pieces that we come across, and that we feel don’t get as much love as they deserve. Before we discuss the watch itself, we’ll dive into a brief history of the brand, hopefully bringing some more attention to fantastic independent … ContinuedThe post The Independedit: Habring² Doppel 38 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Workhorse makeover: “Off the shelf” calibres can be pretty too – ETA/Peseux 7001 Edition Time+Tide
Dec 17, 2022

Workhorse makeover: “Off the shelf” calibres can be pretty too – ETA/Peseux 7001 Edition

One thing watch enthusiasts often do is dismiss “off the shelf” calibres. The allure and buzz of “in-house” movements has cast a dismissing shadow over mass-produced calibres. But, like many other things in life, sometimes it is more about how you use it than anything else. I will not deny it, standard ETA and Sellita … ContinuedThe post Workhorse makeover: “Off the shelf” calibres can be pretty too – ETA/Peseux 7001 Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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How to be a better customer – from a guy who just randomly picked up a new Rolex DJ Time+Tide
Rolex DJ Allow me start Dec 17, 2022

How to be a better customer – from a guy who just randomly picked up a new Rolex DJ

Allow me start off with a recent watch acquisition story. Last month, I was travelling for work and ended up with a few hours to kill on a Friday afternoon after meetings wrapped up. I asked my colleagues that lived locally for a recommendation on where to go and check out some nice watches. They pointed … ContinuedThe post How to be a better customer – from a guy who just randomly picked up a new Rolex DJ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Up Close: Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Heure Sautante Minutes Rétrograde SJX Watches
Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Heure Sautante Dec 15, 2022

Up Close: Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Heure Sautante Minutes Rétrograde

While Blancpain is best known for its retro dive watches and triple calendars, the brand’s catalogue includes a surprisingly broad range of complications, especially for a brand of its scale (but the fact that the brand is part of Swatch Group clearly helps). One of its most interesting recent complications is the Villeret Tourbillon Heure Sautante Minutes Rétrograde, the first Blancpain watch with either a jumping hours or retrograde display. Despite the lengthy name, the Tourbillon Heure Sautante Minutes Rétrograde, from now on simply THSMR, is a simple watch on its face, but one executed in an elaborate manner with details that speak to its quality. The dial is champlevé enamel with a symmetrical time display and “floating” flying tourbillon, while the movement has a six-day power reserve and bridges finished with guilloche. Initial thoughts Unlike most of Blancpain’s complications that formal and busy, the THSMR is an elegant watch with an almost minimalist design. The fired enamel dial has a figure-of-eight display that gives it almost perfect symmetry, except for the charmingly quirky hour window that is off-centre but just right. And up close the tourbillon appears to be “floating” thanks to a clear sapphire lower bridge. It is a fairly large watch as most Blancpain watches now are, though it’s not too thick at just over 11 mm high. But the size is grounded in its mechanics: the cal. 260MR is a sizeable movement with an impressive six-day power r...

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Hands-On: With The New F.P. Journe Octa Sport And Centigraphe Sport In Titanium (Live Pics, Full Specs, & Pricing) Hodinkee
F.P. Journe Dec 15, 2022

Hands-On: With The New F.P. Journe Octa Sport And Centigraphe Sport In Titanium (Live Pics, Full Specs, & Pricing)

When F.P. Journe unveiled his Octa Sports line of watches back in 2011, we (the royal watch collecting "we") could simply not believe how light they were. After all, the F.P. Journe "lineSport" pieces, being the Octa Sport and the Centrigraphe (CTS), were made entirely of aluminum. Yes, aluminum! They were so light, they almost felt fake (seriously). They were not fake, they were just absurdly light, and absurdly cool.

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Start your (virtual) engines… The IWC Esports Challenge at Battersea Power Station Time+Tide
IWC Esports Challenge Dec 15, 2022

Start your (virtual) engines… The IWC Esports Challenge at Battersea Power Station

The first time I set foot in a luxury watch boutique was for a sim racing competition in 2019, driving a GT3 car around the Hungaroring. I won a pen, notebook, and baseball cap for my third place ranking, and figured that I’d pretty much peaked in my sim racing career. IWC went down a … ContinuedThe post Start your (virtual) engines… The IWC Esports Challenge at Battersea Power Station appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Breguet Introduces the Classique 9075 “Chinese New Year” SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Dec 14, 2022

Breguet Introduces the Classique 9075 “Chinese New Year”

Continuing its annual tradition of commemorative editions for the Chinese Lunar Year, Breguet introduces the Classique 9075 “Chinese New Year” to commemorate the Year of the Water Rabbit set to start in January 2023. While last year’s “Tiger” edition was a men’s watch with a hand-engraved dial, this year’s watch is artisanal yet whimsical in a manner that is atypical for the typically conservative brand. Initial thoughts It is always lovely to see a timepiece that makes you smile, especially from a brand that is usually formal. While Breguet debuts special editions regularly, it often utilises guilloche for the dials, as is the brand’s trademark. So the playful dial on the Classique 9075 is refreshing. The prancing-rabbit motif manages to be whimsical without being bold and loud, and still retains the elegance and grace expected of Breguet. And of course the grand feu enamel dial is executed with intricate detail and craftsmanship. The Classique 9075, however, is a women’s watch, not because of the design but the compact case diameter of 33.5 mm as well as the diamonds on the bezel and lugs. A masculine version – scaled up and sans diamonds – would certainly have appeal for male enthusiasts. At CHF43,000, the Classique 9075 is priced in the same ballpark as comparable models in the regular production collection, making it a compelling alternative to the average Breguet. But it will only be an alternative for very few as the watch is limited to o...

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Seiko Introduces the Presage 110th Anniversary SPB359 SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Dec 13, 2022

Seiko Introduces the Presage 110th Anniversary SPB359

Seiko made history when it produced the first-ever made-in-Japan wristwatch in 1913. Known as the Laurel, the 1913 wristwatch was typical of the era when pocket watches were evolving into wristwatches. To mark the 110th anniversary of its first wristwatch, Seiko debuts the Presage Seiko Watchmaking 110th Anniversary ref. SPB359. Featuring a fired enamel dial, the Presage 110th Anniversary is modelled on the 1913 original, right down to the case reminiscent of a pocket watch. Initial thoughts Seiko regularly rolls out Presage limited editions with dials ranging from porcelain to Japanese lacquer, but all share the same case style despite the diversity in dials. In contrast, the Presage 110th Anniversary is refreshingly different and unique within the Presage line-up. Not only is the case executed in the style of an early 20th century watch, it is also more compact than the typical Presage, measuring at 37.5 mm in diameter instead of the usual 40.5 mm. That said, the new Presage is still fairly thick at over 12 mm high as a consequence of the movement inside. Both the case design and dimensions give it a distinctly different look and feel from past Presage models. This means the anniversary edition has appeal even for someone who already owns a past Presage model. And as expected for Seiko, the Presage 110th Anniversary is solid value with a retail price of about US$2,000. The 1913 Laurel in the Seiko Museum Retro styling Entirely polished and stainless steel, the case of t...

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