Results for NOS (New Old Stock)

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Worn & Wound

Tudor Throwback Jun 29, 2023

An Unlikely Tudor Throwback (in Solid Gold) Heads to Only Watch

We’ll have a lot more on our favorite lots from this year’s Only Watch sale next week, but on this day of big Tudor news, we’d be remiss not to mention their contribution to the 2023 edition of the charity auction, a solid gold chronograph inspired by their very first automatic chronograph. The Tudor Prince Chronograph One brings some luxury flair to the auction from the tool watch specialist, in a format that the brand had all but abandoned by the time they relaunched in the US over a decade ago. In addition to being a literal unique piece (as all watches in the Only Watch sale are) this one sports a new caliber that is honestly kind of hard to believe even exists in 2023.  The 12, 6, 9 chronograph display here is a familiar sight to anyone who has dabbled in enthusiast centric chronos – it’s the hallmark layout of the vaunted Valjoux 7750, an ubiquitous caliber if there ever was one, used by more brands than we can possibly count over the years, including, of course, Tudor. The Tudor Prince Chronograph line that made use of these movements as well as the earlier “Big Blocks” dating to the late 1970s have always been collector favorites, coming in a variety of colorways over the years. It differs sharply from modern Tudor chronographs that use their in-house caliber with a 3,6 9 layout that seems to beg for comparisons to the Daytona, which of course is made by Rolex, Tudor’s sister brand. Now that classic layout is back, sort of, with what Tudor describe...

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SJX Watches

Tudor Introduces Jun 29, 2023

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD & Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing”

Having signed on as a sponsor of America’s Cup contender Alinghi last year, Tudor now reveals a pair of watches created especially for the sailing team. The Pelagos FXD “Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition” and Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition” both feature a carbon composite case – a first for Tudor – along with the functional design derived from the military-issue FXD dive watch. Initial thoughts I’m a fan of Tudor – its products are amongst the best value propositions across the entire industry – but its offerings have historically been limited in terms of design. In recent years the brand has gotten bolder in both styling and materials – the new pair demonstrate this. And if anything, they are probably the first of many more adventurous products from Tudor, something that is a natural evolution of the brand given the capacity of its big new manufacture. Although both stick to the design established by the original Pelagos FXD, they make it more interesting in terms of colour and a lot more interesting in terms of materials with the carbon composite case. The use of the lightweight composite will give both of them a featherweight presence on the wrist, despite the large case diameters of each. Despite the novelty in terms of materials, the new Pelagos FXD models remain squarely in Tudor’s favourite price segment. The time-only FXD costs a bit under US$3,700 while the chronograph is a little over US$5,000, making both strong value p...

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SJX Watches

F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain movement – Jun 29, 2023

Barbier-Mueller Returns with the Mosaïque II

In 2017, the original Barbier-Mueller Mosaïque made its first public appearance at Only Watch. The collaborative efforts of longtime friends Stéphane Barbier-Mueller and François-Paul Journe, one being the preeminent independent watchmaker and the other a member of one of a Swiss real estate dynasty, this was an unexpected and rather pleasant surprise. Now, the pair have returned with the Mosaïque II, follow up to their initial offering, sticking to the same principles as before, but with the eye of watch designer Eric Giroud.  Initial thoughts Those who are fans of the original will be pleased to see all of the main traits have been carried over to this latest version. The stone work on the dial, case and hinged caseback is all there, and the two hander runs on the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain movement – in fact, it is essentially an elaborately inlaid Chronomètre Souverain. If anything, they have elevated their previous efforts by incorporating more types of semi-precious stones in order to execute Mr. Giroud’s design. While Mr Giroud’s eye has given the Mosaïque II a different feel from its predecessor, the new watch still reflects Mr Barbier-Mueller’s interest in arts and culture, which was the basis for the original Mosaïque. Besides being a shareholder in F.P. Journe, Mr Barbier-Mueller is also a member of the family that established the Barbier-Mueller Museum in Geneva that’s famous for its world-class collection of tribal art. The original M...

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Worn & Wound

Ming be Jun 26, 2023

Micromilspec Introduces a Watch Made for Members of the United States Space Force

Micromilspec, a Norwegian microbrand that has carved out a niche making custom watches for first-responder and military clients, has just revealed their latest project, a watch made for members of the newest branch of the United States military. The United States Space Force, founded in 2019 and technically part of the Department of the Air Force, is the smallest U.S. armed service, with just 8,600 members, but watch enthusiasts among the ranks now have the option of owning a timepiece made just for them, and civilians can get in on the action as well.  The U.S. Space Force Watch was made in collaboration with members of the USSF in a manner similar to watches made with other Micromilspec clients, a list that includes Canadian, Norwegian, and French special forces, several units of the Norwegian Army, and the Smoke Divers unit of the Oslo Fire Brigade. According to the brand, watches are designed and developed in Oslo, with manufacturing and assembly completed by the brand’s Swiss partners. For the U.S. Space Force Watch two distinct versions will be made: one that will be sold exclusively to active members, members, and designated personnel of the USSF, and a more widely available civilian version which will require a U.S. shipping address to order.  The watch itself is a spin on the popular integrated bracelet sports watch concept, with a highly angular eight sided case and an integrated H-link bracelet. The case measures 42mm wide and features a dive-style timing be...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Jun 24, 2023

Watch brands enter the culture wars

In Australia, Sky News isn’t a precise equivalent of Fox News – its daytime news coverage is comparatively balanced. But Sky is also owned by Rupert Murdoch and has undeniably become something of a hotbed of right-wing punditry.  As a current-affairs channel, watches are not covered on a regular basis. Which makes it all the … ContinuedThe post Watch brands enter the culture wars appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT Blue Jun 22, 2023

Hands-On: the Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT Blue

A GMT watch is more of a function than a style, yet I expect your mind goes straight to a red and blue ‘Pepsi’ bezel, or perhaps a red and black ‘Coke’. It’s now 10 years since Rolex first launched the 116710BLNR, so maybe the ‘Batman’ is more your style. Whichever is your favourite, a bi-color bezel is a common sight on a GMT watch. A couple of months back, Bell & Ross added another iteration to their GMT lineup. This one uses the BR 03 outline as its base, and combines it with a sharp blue and gray colorway. The blue isn’t restricted to one half of the bezel only though, which results in a vibrant looking watch. On paper, there’s a lot to like about the BR 03-93 GMT Blue, but how good is it on the wrist? With Bell & Ross’s more typical square cased watches, the dial is relatively simple. Often a black dial, large indices, bold sword hands and plenty of lume. A real utilitarian look. There are some BR 03 models which are altogether more lavish. This is one. The blue dial is bright, with a sunburst finish, and is as vibrant in real life as you’d expect. What’s especially nice to see is that although Bell & Ross’s familiar design language is present in the large numerals at the cardinal points, they are applied indices rising above the dial with superb vertical brushing on the top surfaces. The other indices are also applied, with a generous amount of lume in each. Bell & Ross have taken the familiar, and elevated it into something more elegant. Th...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Ming events Jun 21, 2023

Singer Reimagined Introduces a Pair of Smaller Chronographs with Updated Movements and Features

If there was an easy knock you could make against the previous iterations of the Singer Reimagined chronographs, it’s that they were too big. At 43mm in a big cushion case, they have a ton of wrist presence to be sure, and require a larger wrist to pull off effectively. But they’re mechanically ingenious, and, in my opinion, pretty great looking from a purely aesthetic perspective, so I was always willing to forgive them for their size. Now, with a pair of watches in the brand’s new Singer 1969 collection, they’ve gone a long way toward answering doubters who made the large size of their earlier watches a dealbreaker. They’ve also incorporated new functionality, refining the mechanical piece to make their watches even more intuitive.  The 1969 Chronograph is the heavy hitter of the pair of watches announced today. This watch features an updated Agengraphe caliber that’s smaller (to fit the new 40mm case) and also includes a time display. Elapsed time is still read from the centrally mounted hands, but the current time is now displayed in an aperture at 6:00 via a pair of rotating discs. The chronograph incorporates jumping minutes and hours for precision, and the caliber is capable of timing events of up to 60 hours, which is a feat only Singer can claim.  The more modest 1969 Timer is my personal favorite of the two new watches. This is effectively an update of Singer’s Flytrack watches, which incorporate a 60 second timer via the centrally mounted running...

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SJX Watches

Longines Introduces Jun 21, 2023

Longines Introduces the Spirit Zulu Time 39 mm

Originally introduced in 42 mm last year, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time now gets a more comfortable 39 mm case. The new variant retains all the appealing design elements of the original that are loosely inspired by the brand’s first dual time zone watch from 1925, including the legible dial and a vintage-style, bi-directional bezel. Initial thoughts The Spirit Zulu Time is a great example of how to execute a vintage-style watch. However, a significant drawback was the large, 42 mm size of the original, which was quite hefty on the wrist and not quite suited to the retro style. Longines clearly recognised this issue and responded surprisingly quickly in introducing a more wearable size. While the 39 mm size is certainly positive, the case thickness of 13.5 mm leaves it notably thick relative to the diameter; the thickness is comparable to some automatic chronographs. As a result, it may feel clunky on the wrist for some. That said, the reason for the case height is fundamental: the watch is powered by the same movement as the original.   Still, the Spirit Zulu Time continues to be an excellent value proposition, starting at US$3,050 in steel while the steel and gold model is US$4,200. The fact that the Zulu Time is a genuine GMT with an independent local-time hour hand makes it a standout amongst affordable dual-time zone watches. Although it may fall short in terms of movement sophistication compared to the similarly-priced Tudor Black Bay GMT, it has the advantage of ...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Grand Seiko SBGE285 & Rolex Explorer Jun 20, 2023

[VIDEO] Battle of the White GMTs: Grand Seiko SBGE285 & Rolex Explorer II 16570

There has never been a better time to be in the market for a GMT watch, with no shortage of great options at a wider range of prices than perhaps ever before. There is one watch that’s remained a pillar of the genre over the years, however, and that is the Explorer II reference 16570. It holds up just as well today as it did when it was introduced in the late ‘80s, and remains a favorite among enthusiasts for its sweet spot sizing, and a timeless design that seems to go with everything. But that’s a watch that’s been out of production for decades, so where is the modern incarnation of this ethos? We may have found a perfect candidate in the Grand Seiko SBGE285. Grand Seiko hasn’t exactly been at the center of the scruffy tool watch scene in the same way that 5 digit Rolex references have, but this SBGE285 offers a compelling case for Grand Seiko’s take on the genre with this modern tool-ish GMT. This is a watch that might look a little intimidating by the numbers, but offers a different experience on-wrist. It might not be as svelte as the Explorer II, but there’s plenty to admire here, from the stunning finishing on the hands and dial furniture, to the unorthodox case architecture, which are all executed to Grand Seiko’s high standards. Ultimately, these two watches offer very different experiences that reflect the two brands at their very best. That said, they do converge in a few surprising ways, which Kat and Blake discuss in this inside look at watches...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Audemars Piguet ? If you are Jun 20, 2023

What Will I Pay for an Entry-Level Audemars Piguet?

If you are on a quest for the “cheapest” Audemars Piguet watch, it’s best to accept one truism right up front: that the cheapest AP is still going to be, for most, a major investment. When it comes to the most desirable Audemars Piguet watches, you can expect to lay out no less than five figures even for a pre-owned model, and new models are so highly in demand that even their already pricey MSRPs will prove to be a frustrating mirage for many prospective buyers, as those watches will regularly be marked up even higher on the secondary market. Nevertheless, in keeping with our previous guides covering Rolex and Patek Philippe, and in the spirit of every Audemars Piguet owner/collector needing to start somewhere, here are three entry-level options from three AP collections, with some details on what makes each one distinctive. (Whether those distinctions are enough to move you to buy one will be up to you and, perhaps, your financial advisor.) Audemars Piguet began making watches in 1875, when founders Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet first registered the brand in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux. Now headquartered in the town of Le Brassus, it remains one of the very few privately owned firms in the watchmaking industry, still in the hands of the Audemars family. Renamed Audemars Piguet & Cie in 1881, the company primarily manufactured movements for other firms in its earliest days, including Tiffany and Co., but later gained renown for milestones like t...

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Concept Jun 18, 2023

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Aqua Blue: Refining Perfection Results in a Refining of Preference - Reprise

Sometimes good things do come in smaller packages. When H. Moser & Cie introduced the Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater in 2019, it boasted a diameter of 43 mm. Now in 2022, we welcome a new version with a 40 mm diameter case. That’s just one of several changes making this watch even more appealing to an even larger group of (potential) clients.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Grand Seiko SBGE257 Three years ago Jun 16, 2023

Turning 50 with the Grand Seiko SBGE257

Three years ago, my significant other turned 50 and for this milestone birthday she absolutely wanted a Tesla automobile. As the wonderful husband I am and knowing my 50th birthday was three years away, I knew this could open the door to a significant watch purchase, so of course, we made it happen. Luckily, we were very fortunate to take possession of her new cherry red car just weeks before the pandemic turned the entire world upside down.  From that day forward, I had to figure out what would make the perfect 50th birthday watch, however, before we get to this process, you have to understand something about me. I call myself a serial monogamist when it comes to watch collecting. I am one of those people that can only have one “good” watch at a time. I cannot seem to have more than one, as there is always a preferred one and that one always gets the wrist time.  As a result, since 1997, I have gone through hundreds of watches, always looking for watch next. My preference is for sport, dive and pilot watches and I have owned, photographed and reviewed some of the very finest in the world. I have done this by frequently trading, or selling and buying, but always with the same pool of watch funds. Oh, I have added a little bit here and there, and I have also gotten lucky a few times and come out favorably on some trades. All that said, it has been years since the wifely unit permitted a large watch purchase.  You see, we have two adult kids in college and despite wha...

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SJX Watches

IWC Introduces Jun 16, 2023

IWC Introduces the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar “Top Gun Lake Tahoe”

Having made a splash with the release of the Ingenieur back in March, IWC now returns with an addition to its military-inspired aviator’s watch collection with the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar “Top Gun Lake Tahoe”. While IWC is no stranger to ceramic as a case material, this is the first time the signature IWC perpetual calendar has been combined with white ceramic, certainly one of the brand’s most popular case materials. Initial thoughts Since its 2022 debut, the Colours of Top Gun collection – comprised of pilot’s watches with cases in coloured ceramic other than black – has consistently been a bestseller. The white ceramic chronograph in particular was especially sought after, enough that it sold for above the retail price on the secondary market for a brief period. Therefore, it is no surprise that IWC has now introduced a white ceramic perpetual calendar, adding the popular case material to its trademark complication. Fans of the perpetual calendar will not be disappointed since the dial design sticks to a tried-and-tested formula. The overall aesthetics, however, are striking. The juxtaposition of the matte black dial and white ceramic transforms the often elegant complication into something sportier and cooler. On the other hand, owners of the Top Gun chronograph in white ceramic might be disappointed that the material is no longer unique to that model, but it was practically a given IWC would launch more white ceramic models given the comme...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Rolex Thunderbird Jun 15, 2023

eBay Finds: Vintage Divers and Mystery Dials

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Oris Diver To start this week we have a cool and funky vintage Oris diver. The oval/cushion style chrome plated case is in great shape, with nice sharp edges and factory brushed finish intact. Seller doesn’t state the size but it looks to be on the larger size judging by the placement of the date window. The black dial is super clean, with nicely aged lume hour markers. It has an aluminum elapsed time divers bezel that is also in great shape. The crown is original and is signed with the Oris name. No movement picture, but the seller states it runs well. View auction here. Waltham Ultra-Thin Next up is a stylin’ vintage Waltham in yellow gold fill, complete with box and extras. The gold fill case looks nice and sharp, and has a nifty engine turned bezel similar to the classic Rolex Thunderbird and thin simple lugs. The simple crosshair gold dial has Arabic numerals at 12 and 6, along with a sub-seconds dial just above the 6. No date and gold dauphine hands complete the look. Nice, thin, classy dress watch. Best of all it comes in the original box with some little tags and a hangtag. Again, no movement picture but the seller states it runs well. View auction here. Vintage Bu...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Hublot has Hublonium arguably Jun 14, 2023

Opinion: Gifting Metal

For Rolex its Oystersteel, their own version of 904L. Hublot has Hublonium, arguably the best named material in the industry. I like to picture a room of C-level executives in Geneva participating in a brainstorming session to name their special blend of magnesium and aluminum. Steve throws out “Hublonium” as a joke. Two hours later, there are no better ideas, and suddenly Steve seems like a genius. Feeling empowered, he suggests putting a rhinoceros on a Big Bang. Everyone trusts him after the success of Hublonium, so why not? 2 for 2 Steve. Congratulations. I can’t wait to see what you think of next. While the mixtures and creative names vary, ultimately, it’s all metal. This metal houses movements, dials, and hands. This collection of items gets thrown on a strap or bracelet. Collectively, the whole ensemble weighs 100, maybe 150 grams. It’s a small piece of functionality wrapped in metal, and sometimes that’s ALL it is. And that’s OK. But sometimes, for some people, this 100–150-gram object becomes more than a time keeping device. Growing up in Michigan, my grandparents lived on a small in-land lake a couple hours north of us. We made the drive frequently, enjoying hours-long daytime rides on grandpa’s pontoon boat, followed by hours-long games of cards at the lake house. My grandpa always wore, and still does, a tiger’s eye ring. There isn’t a moment I remember noticing this ring for the first time. It was just always there. The silky, golden sto...

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SJX Watches

Richard Mille Jun 14, 2023

Breitling Introduces the Navitimer B01 “S&S; 10th Anniversary”

Breitling is introducing a luxe variation of its flagship chronograph to mark the tenth year of S&S; Group, a luxury retailer that represents brands ranging from Rolls Royce to Richard Mille in Vietnam. The Navitimer B01 “S&S; 10th Anniversary” Limited Edition is making its debut just in time for the opening of the Breitling boutique in the Vietnamese capital, Hanoi. Initial thoughts Highlighting its focus on Southeast Asia, it comes as no surprise that Breitling has unveiled another edition of its trademark chronograph, following the Singapore Airlines edition from last year. But instead of a mere change of colour as it usually does, Breitling has employed mother-of-pearl for the dial, an unusual material for the brand but one that adds a touch of extravagance to an otherwise functional pilot’s watch.  The mother-of-pearl dial instantly sets this apart from the standard Navitimer, particularly with the red gold case. Perhaps the only thing missing is the retailer’s logo on the dial, a detail that would hark back to the double-signed dials that are desirable in vintage watches.  Priced at US$21,800, the S&S; Navitimer is slightly more expensive than the standard production model in rose gold that has a plain, cream dial. This increase can primarily be attributed to the mother-of-pearl dial and seems fairly proportional for the upgrade in dial material. Tenth anniversary This Navitimer edition celebrates the tenth year of S&S; Group, which was founded in 2013 as the s...

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SJX Watches

Louis Vuitton Introduces Jun 7, 2023

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Tambour Street Diver Chronograph

Two years ago, Louis Vuitton unveiled the Tambour Street Diver, a livelier iteration of its longstanding Tambour dive watch. Now the brand debuts the Tambour Street Diver Chronograph, adding further a stopwatch to the nautical-inspired aesthetic. Together, the two Street Divers now form the entry-level of the brand’s mechanical watch offerings, which progress upwards into seven-figure, minute-repeater-with-automaton territory. Initial thoughts The new chronograph is a natural progression from its predecessor, retaining the elements of a traditional dive watch, including a less-common inner rotating bezel, while incorporating Louis Vuitton’s bold and modern styling, including the tall, drum-shaped case. The design is as much “street” as it is “diver”, and very much in keeping with the brand’s aesthetic. Both the case and dial are executed well, although the two-tone case might not be to everyone’s taste. Enthusiasts, however, will note the ETA movement inside. The movement is reliable and robust, though the US$11,105 price tag deserves a more interesting calibre. That said, given Louis Vuitton’s well-funded ambitions in watchmaking, it is a certainty that the brand will soon roll out in-house calibres in all price segments of its catalogue. Nautically inspired The new chronograph available in two variations: Skyline Blue (blue with metallic sun-ray finish) and Neon Black (matte black), each matched with a case colour in the same colour. Both have the same ...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2057 Jun 6, 2023

Hands On: Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2057 and 2067

Following the launch of a revamped flagship perpetual calendar, Breguet now reboots its famous pilot’s chronograph with the Type XX Chronographe 2057 and 2067. Descended from the military-issue watches introduced in the 1950s, the new Type XX makes its debut with a pair of watches – one military inspired and the other civilian – that are identical on a fundamental level but distinctly different in look and feel. Significant enhancements have been introduced with the latest-generation Type XX, including more sophisticated case finishing, but most notable is the newly-developed flyback chronograph movement with an extended power reserve and high-frequency, 5 Hz escapement. (The new models are referred to as Type XX, as are vintage pilot’s chronographs sold to the civilian market. Vintage military-issue chronographs are known as Type 20, as is historical practice.) The ref. 2067 modelled on the civilian Type XX of the 1960s Initial thoughts After introducing the Type XX and Type XXI, Breguet has returned back to the Type XX model name with a new watch that retains many of the distinctive design elements that define the Type XX, while incorporating significant improvements to the design, details, and of course movement. At 42 mm, the new Type XX is a large watch, but sized correctly for a pilot’s chronograph. The lugs are also relatively short so the watch sits well on the wrist. And enthusiasts will appreciate the fact that the case size corresponds to the movement....

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Breitling Introduces Jun 6, 2023

Breitling Introduces the Classic AVI Chronograph 42 and AVI ref. 765 1964 Re-Edition

Having already debuted an oversized take on the ref. 765 AVI “Co-Pilot” of 1953, Breitling now introduces the Classic AVI Chronograph 42, a scaled-down version that pays homage to the vintage original. Unlike its bigger brother, the 46 mm Super AVI GMT that features a second time zone function, the Classic AVI is a no-frills watch with just the time and chronograph. The Classic AVI makes its debut with a range of regular-production models, each inspired by a historical fighter plane, alongside the limited-edition AVI ref. 765 1964 Re-Edition. Classic AVI Chronograph 42 Curtiss P-40 Warhawk Initial thoughts The Super AVI GMT is a vintage-inspired chronograph with an appealing design, but with the drawback of the 46 mm case – huge by even by modern standards. The introduction of a more compact version is welcome, even if this addition further expands Breitling’s extensive (and sometimes confusing) catalogue.  With its smaller case, the Classic AVI has arguably better proportions than its bigger brother, with dimensions better suited to the vintage-inspired styling. And because it is equipped with a Valjoux movement (otherwise known as the Breitling Caliber 23), the Classic AVI is amongst the most affordable Breitling chronographs, adding to its appeal. The P-51 Mustang The P-51 Mustang is the standout among the Classic AVI line-up. It has classic pilot’s chronograph aesthetics with a black dial and faux-patina Arabic numerals that provide a nostalgic feel.  But e...

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R Revolution

Revolution

May 31, 2023

The Ele Series: Meeting KISS, Part I

As America’s #1 Gold Record Award-winning group of all time, KISS is easily one of rock’s most influential bands. The Rock N Roll Hall of Famers have released 44 albums, sold more than 100 million albums worldwide, and toured for over 40 years. In this edition of The Ele Series, Eleonor sits down with the […]

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Maurice Lacroix Resurrects May 29, 2023

Maurice Lacroix Resurrects the Fan Favorite Pontos S Diver

Maurice Lacroix dropped some surprising news this week by announcing that the Pontos S Diver will be making a return. First released 10 years ago, the Pontos S Diver was short-lived once the brand decided to move their focus to the Aikon watch, which has taken a number of forms in the intervening years. The Pontos S Diver always hit a bit differently, though, and we’re thrilled to see it making a comeback in a very similar fashion to what it once was (for better or worse), as there’s never enough good looking internal bezel divers out there.  The new Pontos S Diver gets a familiar design right out of the box, which is a good thing in many ways, though perhaps a hindrance in others. The simple dial gets long hour and minute markers reaching into the dial against a set of straight hands with a slight taper, framed by the internal rotating bezel which gets the only numerals in sight outside of the date aperture at 6 o’clock. There’s not much to it, but Maurice Lacroix gets the proportions of everything just right, capturing the timeless appeal of this look. The internal bezel can be adjusted by the crown at 2 o’clock on the case, which appears to stick out a touch further than the original design, but the contrasting ring at the base of the crown remains. Unlike the original examples, the date disc has been color matched to the dial. The steel case measures 42mm in diameter, shedding a single millimeter from the original’s size, and comes in a hair thinner as the...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Vulcain Links Up May 25, 2023

Sound The Alarm: Vulcain Links Up with Revolution & The Rake on Limited Edition ‘Style Moderne’ Cricket

The latest iteration of Vulcain’s beloved alarm watch, aptly named the Cricket, is a collaborative limited edition piece with Revolution & The Rake. Tapping into Revolution’s enthusiasm for finely crafted timepieces and The Rake’s sartorial know-how, the Cricket gets a handsome new sector dial that harkens back to the design made popular in the 1930’s. Still keeping the foundational elements of the Cricket, the limited edition ‘Style Moderne’ is a representation of an era where design evolved from Art Deco’s flash and flare, to practical and functional, without sacrificing its appealing facade. To dive a little deeper into architectural history and terminology, Style Moderne or also known as Art Moderne emphasized movement and sleekness. It was a departure from the embellished zig zags and chevrons found in the previous decade, and a transition to more streamlined designs while maintaining some of its geometric and bold color elements. The Cricket ‘Style Moderne’ embodies that evolution with its sectioned two-tone Bellini and anthracite dial. Each layer of the dial has its own geometrical feature; the inner dial is split into four quadrants, the following Bellini layer is split into eight separate sections by several anthracite channels that flow into the outer portion of the dial. We’ve seen multiple hour marker displays within the Cricket collection, ranging from Arabic numerals, pointed markers, and a combination of both. This particular edition come...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Audemars Piguet Introduces May 25, 2023

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Spider-Man”

Two years ago, Audemars Piguet (AP) introduced the Royal Oak Concept “Black Panther”, a watch that caused a stir, to put it mildly. While the comics-and-complications combination was unorthodox, the watch was a commercial success. Now AP is following up – as promised – with its second Marvel collaboration, the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Spider-Man”. Like its predecessor, it has a miniature sculpture of the superhero as the dial and it is once again again a Royal Oak Concept, but now powered by a new calibre.  And the Royal Oak Spider-Man watch also continues the charitable tradition started by its predecessor. A unique version of the new watch, the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Black Suit Spider-Man” that depicts a black-and-silver superhero, will be sold at auction to benefit First Book and Ashoka, a pair of charities that bring education to disadvantaged youth. Initial thoughts In some ways, the Royal Oak Black Panther did not look serious enough for such an expensive watch; it was perhaps too purple. While its aesthetics were subjective, it was certainly well executed. The miniature sculpture was done well in both detail, colour, and form. The same holds true for the Royal Oak Spider-Man, but it is an altogether more attractive watch. For one, it is less purple and more monochromatic, with much of the watch being black and white, leaving only the superhero figure to convey colour. And the figure itself is better positioned in that it allows more of t...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Ming out May 23, 2023

Wilbur Watch Co. Introduces the LEO, an Area 51 Inspired Watch with a Unique Jumping Hour Display

Here at Worn & Wound, we’re all pretty big fans of watches that approach time telling in an unusual way. In our collections you’ll find regulators, watches with offset dials and movements exposed from the front, watches with no numerals or indices at all, and you might even catch a d.m.h jump hour if you spend enough time on our Instagram feeds. The watch we’re looking at today, the LEO by Wilbur Watch Co., actually feels like an evolution of the d.m.h format – it’s a jumping hour mechanism that’s highly complex, but yields a surprisingly intuitive method for reading the time. And it comes in a big, bold package, partially inspired by a fascination with stories of extraterrestrials coming out of Roswell, NM and Area 51. So, you know, just a normal, everyday kind of watch.  At the heart of the LEO is what the brand refers to as the Engine One movement, an automatic, Swiss made caliber, designed by Wilbur Watch Co. Time is told via two discs on either side of the dial, one transparent sapphire, the other aluminum. The discs are each marked with symbols that look like hieroglyphics, which is part of the alien inspiration for the piece. Those symbols are designed to fit together to form numerals, though, as the discs rotate. The hour is read at the dead center of the dial, outlined with a bright blue ring, where the two rings meet. The minutes are read via a rotating ring at the outside of the dial (an arrow right below the hour indicator points to the current min...

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SJX Watches

Patek Philippe May 21, 2023

Highlights: Patek Philippe at Christie’s Hong Kong

After covering the notable in the upcoming auction of an impressive single-owner collection, we now turn to the highlights in Christie’s main sale, Important Watches. Made up of 159 lots, the sale encompasses a remarkable line-up of Patek Philippe timepieces, from the quirky and historically important, like the brand’s smallest-known repeater, to the contemporary and magnificent Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 5002R featuring a special-order black dial. Important Watches (lots 2201-2360) begins at 1:00 pm on May 26 – the catalogue is available here. But the most significant watch in the sale is undoubtedly the ref. 2523 world time with a cloisonné dial depicting the North American continent, one of three known to exist. Given its importance and value, the ref. 2523 will be sold as the sole lot in a dedicated auction. The ref. 2523 will be sold at 7:00 pm on May 28 – more can be found here. The ref. 2523 with a cloisonné dial Lot 2306: Patek Philippe Pocket Watch with the Smallest Known Repeater Compact yet exceptional, this Patek Philippe pocket watch dates to 1888 and is just 24.5 mm in diameter. According to Christie’s, this pocket watch is smallest known minute repeater ever made by Patek Philippe. It was most likely commissioned by a Spanish or Latin American customer, as indicated by the margins on the movement in Spanish. This pocket watch has a white enamel dial with Roman numerals in black for the hours and oversized minute numerals in gilt print. Several hai...

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SJX Watches

Patek Philippe Owned May 20, 2023

Up Close: The Imperial Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China

With the Geneva auctions just having concluded, the spring sale season now moves to Hong Kong. The biggest event during auction week in the city will undoubtedly The Imperial Patek Philippe Sale, an evening sale that take places at Phillips on May 23. The auction gets its name from the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96QL in platinum once owned by Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the last Emperor of China. Known to the market for several years but now going under the hammer for the first time, the watch might emerge as the year’s most valuable watch sold at auction – or it might not, given the mixed reputation of the final Qing Emperor. But regardless of the value, the Puyi’s Patek Philippe is an exceptionally interesting watch, both intrinsically and in terms of provenance. The provenance Phillips pulled out all the stops in marketing The Imperial Patek Philippe Sale, no doubt an attempt to reach an audience beyond watch collectors. While the ref. 96QL is an exceedingly rare watch – and worth millions on its own – the provenance of this example is bona fide “Imperial”. The story of the watch is ably told in a documentary produced by Phillips especially for the auction. The 17-minute film explains how the life and times of Puyi, his fascination with timepieces, and importantly, how the ref. 96QL ended up in the possession of a Russian translator. Amongst the interviewees in the film is Russell Working, an American journalist who once profiled the Russian translator, Georgy Pe...

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Time+Tide

Baltic picks from May 20, 2023

Buffy’s top 3 Baltic picks from the T+T store

If you’ve been paying attention to Time+Tide lately, I’m sure you’ve become aware that our store now stocks Baltic watches. As one of the world’s most beloved microbrands, this is an incredibly exciting time to start getting involved with their elegant range of retro divers and dress pieces. I tend to prefer smaller watches with … ContinuedThe post Buffy’s top 3 Baltic picks from the T+T store appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Worn & Wound

May 17, 2023

Ollech & Wajs Introduces the 8001, an Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Based on a 1970s Chronograph

Since Ollech & Wajs reconstituted itself in 2019, they’ve released a string of well regarded sports watches that pay tribute to some of the brand’s key designs from the 1960s and 1970s. This period, obviously, is fertile ground for watch design inspiration, with plenty of unusual, colorful attempts to build something different, along with your normal array of no fuss, black dialed divers. Ollech & Wajs has really focused on the hits, and on a somewhat insane commitment to build quality (my favorite example: the C-1000, one of the most under the radar 1,000 meter divers you’ll find anywhere). For this latest release, however, they’re looking toward an old design that is heavy with 70s funk, and then…un-funking it? At a glance, the new OW 8001 is the product of at least a few strange decisions.  Let’s step back a moment and take a look at the watch that inspired the OW 8001, the OW 8000. This year marks the 50th anniversary of Ollech & Wajs’ early foray into the integrated bracelet market in the form of a sporty, “TV dial” chronograph with a smoked brown dial. The case of the 8000 appears to be overbuilt and chunky in a way that Ollech & Wajs has always favored, but there’s a certain elegance to the case shape and the way the case connects to the bracelet (notice the facet angled downward at the top and bottom of the case). Ollech & Wajs were far from the only brand to make a TV dial style watch, and they certainly weren’t the only brand to experiment ...

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Worn & Wound

Bremont MB Viper Bremont May 17, 2023

A Prototype Turned Bonafide Addition to Martin-Baker Collection: Introducing the Bremont MB Viper

Bremont and ejection seat manufacturer Martin-Baker have been working with another for over a decade now, and they’re partnership has laid the groundwork for innovation in both the testing and watchmaking process. These two British companies are most certainly birds of a feather, producing their own specialty products with a stamp of dependability that signifies the extensive testing and meticulous quality control that goes into each and every component. They both are constantly pushing the boundaries of what’s possible in their respective industries. It’s no surprise that when Bremont brought watchmaking back to U.K. shores with its series of Caliber ENG300 movements, they tapped into Martin-Baker’s intense equipment and performance testing program. That idea has evolved to what is now the foundation of Bremont’s MB range and created a whole new category of testing, as well as set a brand new standard for the pilots watch. Bremont and Martin-Baker’s latest collaborative project looks forward by looking back – not at their rich history in engineering and technical ingenuity, but at the MB testing program itself and the actual test instrument used by Bremont. In order to test the viability of their Caliber ENG300 movement series, Bremont created a special housing that was attached to the dashboard of an ejection simulator. Bremont then went a step further by affixing a set of carbon fiber lugs to that special housing and strapped it to the wrist of a test mann...

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SJX Watches

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox” It’s May 15, 2023

Hands On: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox”

It’s been 60 years since Jack Heuer introduced perhaps his best-known creation, the Carrera. Conceived as a no-frills chronograph for racing drivers, the original Carrera combined beauty and practicality without sacrificing style. Having released several vintage remakes, TAG Heuer has now pivoted and gently modernised its signature chronograph. The Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox” retains the outline of the original, but it is recognisably different thanks to the highly-domed sapphire crystal – hence the “Glassbox” nickname – that allows the tachymeter scale to sit raised above the dial. The raised tachymeter echos the contours of the crystal, giving the watch a decidedly contemporary flair. Initial thoughts The Glassbox successful combines the old and new. The watch manages to convey evoke the original, while still looking like a modern watch, rather than a remake. The raised tachymeter scale and domed crystal serve to give the watch a visual depth that vintage originals lack. That said, essential elements from the vintage original have been ported over to the new design, like the typography on the tachymeter scale and applied markers for instance.  Importantly, the Glassbox is smaller than most other comparable Carrera models, with a case that’s just 39 mm in diameter. The size suits the vintage-inspired design, although the watch still remains noticeably thick as a result of the movement. Interestingly, the two dials actually have different designs. The p...

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