Hodinkee
Photo Report: Watch Spotting At Oliver Smith Jeweler’s Annual Cars & Cigars
The annual holiday gathering of car and watch collectors has become a festive staple of the season in Scottsdale.
Results for WOSTEP (Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program)
40,100 articles · 235 videos found · page 573 of 1345
Hodinkee
Hodinkee
Auctions: Phillips Bringing Three Mega Pateks to Its Spring Sales
We'll have further auction coverage in the coming weeks, but it's worth giving Phillips a bit more attention, as it continues to lead in year-over-year sales. The auction house sold a record total of over $290 million in watches last year and has had five years in a row with over $200 million in sales. The market has shifted (I'd argue at least twice) in the past few years, but despite the growing F.P. Journe, independent, and pocket watch (yes, pocket watch) markets, the top lots for Phillips continue to be Patek Philippe. At each of their spring auctions, Phillips is selling an important Patek to headline the sale, and each is the kind of watch that could be the pinnacle of the world's top collections. Normal caveat here: I haven't seen these watches in person yet, and anyone considering bidding should make sure to check any watch in person if at all possible. A Patek Philippe ref. 2523 Two-Crown World Time With Cloissoné Enamel South America Dial First, we have the star of Geneva, to be sold on May 9: the Patek Philippe ref. 2523 two-crown world time with cloisonné enamel map of South America, from 1953. Aside from rare variants of 2499s or 1518s (and a few repeaters), these two-crown watches, with their incredible, angular lugs and giant open canvas at the center of the dial, have become the holiest of Holy Grails for many collectors. They are rare enough to be hunted and coveted, but there are also enough out there to be studied, understood, and codified. Too rare o...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Iconic Seiko 1968 Diver Gets A New Automatic GMT Movement
Seiko has been revisiting its 1968 Diver's platform for years now, and the Prospex Heritage family keeps getting more interesting with each wave of releases. The latest additions are the HBC001 and HBC002, two new references that bring a mechanical GMT complication to the lineage for the first time. Both watches reference the 1968 original while expanding what the modern Prospex Heritage line can do. Availability is set for May this year. The post The Iconic Seiko 1968 Diver Gets A New Automatic GMT Movement appeared first on Two Broke Watch Snobs.
Deployant
WWG26 Armchair Picks: Daryll’s top 3 from the new releases
DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors Editor: We next have our second guest Armchair Picks. Daryll is a Deployant friend who goes by the handle Brighty, and is a seasoned collector who is kind enough to share his thoughts on the new releases. WWG26 Armchair Picks: Daryll’s top 3 from the new releases Hello everyone, First of all, thank you, Deployant [...] The post WWG26 Armchair Picks: Daryll’s top 3 from the new releases appeared first on DEPLOYANT.
Worn & Wound
Ming’s Polymesh Bracelet Gets the Universal Straight Link Treatment
I don’t think it’s hyperbole, exactly, to say that one of the things I saw in Geneva last week that I was most excited about was an accessory from a brand that wasn’t even officially exhibiting during Watches & Wonders week. On our first day on the ground in Geneva, sleep deprived and somewhat deliriously walking through the Beau Rivage with no appointments even on the books, we ran into a Ming team member outside a suite, who was happy to show us a number of things we can’t yet talk about that he was carrying around in his bag. That’s the kind of interaction that makes Watches & Wonders week special, in my opinion. Chance encounters, seeing things that are great that you never would have expected to. One of those goodies pulled from that bag is something we can talk about, as of today. The Ming Polymesh bracelet, which we first covered here, has been one of those objects of pure fascination since I first handled it at Geneva Watch Days in the late summer of last year. Now, for the first time, Ming has created a product that is meant to work with watches outside of the Ming catalog with the Polymesh – Straight, a version of the bracelet with straight end pieces that can fit any watch with a 20mm lug width. Of course the previous version of the Polymesh could also be used with watches outside of Ming’s own ecosystem, but the curved spring bars were a limiting factor. Ming’s decision to make a product that is expressly designed for non-Ming watches feels ...
Monochrome
Introducing - The new De Bethune DB28XS Sea Tourbillon
With its unmistakable avant-garde design, the DB28 is De Bethune’s most recognisable model. Making its debut in 2010, the DB28 is characterised by its futuristic silhouette with floating lugs, a delta-shaped bridge at the centre of the dial reminiscent of the Starfleet Commando logo in Star Trek, and a crown at noon. Ever-evolving, the DB28XS […]
Monochrome
First Look - The New TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 500 Date; Going Deeper, Staying Cool
With all the attention focused on the new and important TAG Heuer Monaco references (Steve McQueen and Evergraph), the introduction of the Aquaracer Professional 500 Date at Watches and Wonders 2026 was a quieter one. Still, with this new release, the brand fills a gap in its dive watch range. Positioned between the refined, everyday-capable […]
Fratello
Patek Philippe’s Hidden Gem Is The New Calatrava 5227G-015
Every year, Patek Philippe unveils an abundance of releases during Watches and Wonders. This year, it was no different, with the number of new watches far exceeding 20. I always go over all the new introductions in detail after the show because only then do I have the time to reflect on them. As a […] Visit Patek Philippe’s Hidden Gem Is The New Calatrava 5227G-015 to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Dress Watches from Watches & Wonders 2026
Stone dials, Pop Art pedigree, guilloché motifs, and a pair of Japanese waterfalls highlight this year's list.More
Monochrome
In-Depth - Impressions About the Rolex Daytona Rolesium 126502, a.k.a The Ultimate Cosmograph
Without a doubt, one of the most discussed releases of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026 and the biggest surprise of Rolex for its 2026 collection… There’s now a new steel Rolex Daytona, but actually not quite. See, for decades, the steel Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona has been available in basically two versions only – white […]
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin 2500V
The new Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin 2500V is a release from the brand at this year's Watches and Wonders that's gotten quite a bit of chatter, deservedly so. After all, it is the brand's thinnest-ever Overseas, thanks to a brand-new in-house movement developed over seven years, which means what I assume to be an ungodly amount of R&D; dollars per millimeter shaved. It's also come at a time when Vacheron seems to be really having a moment - the passion I saw amongst Vacheron collectors when I was in Miami last month for the opening of the brand's largest U.S. boutique was very much an exciting sight to see. But is the final result worth all the effort? Very much so, if we take the new Overseas Ultra-Thin 2500V as an ultra-limited, ultra-expensive halo product to mark the development of this new caliber. This 2500V and the Overseas Dual-Time Cardinal Points released alongside it at Watches and Wonders are already seeing very strong demand, and I think that's a sign of a good showing in Geneva. To many collectors of Vacheron over the years, the previous ultra-thin, time-only Overseas 2000V might feel like it had just come out, but in fact, a decade has passed since its introduction. Coming in white gold, the case measured 40mm in diameter, with a thickness of 7.5mm. Inside was the Vacheron 1120 caliber, a version of the JLC caliber 920 that had found its way in many watches amongst the Holy Trinity of brands, thanks to its superlative of being the thinnest aut...
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders: Frederique Constant Offers a Smart Update to their Classic Worldtimer Manufacture
Frederique Constant has built themselves a nice little niche delivering complicated watches at relatively affordable and impressive price points. While their perpetual calendar is probably the most impressive in terms of straight up value (somehow it still comes in under $10,000, even after years of rising prices throughout the sector) it’s the Worldtimer Manufacture that is likely their true signature. It’s a genuinely accessible complication that, at the time it was introduced, was novel in a watch well under the five figure mark. Over the years there have been a number of variants introduced, but little has changed as far as the actual execution of the watch. That changes with the introduction of a trio of new worldtimers, all sporting the new manufacture movement, designated FC-719. The new caliber allows two nagging issues to be addressed: case size and dial clutter. If you’re familiar with Frederique Constant’s Worldtimer Manufacture, you’ve likely already noticed that the large subdial at 6:00 displaying the date has been completely removed. A no-date worldtimer is a big change, but there’s no denying that the dial is significantly cleaner without the date. It allows the dial motif, a representation of a globe, common enough on these watches, to fully stand on its own. Dial options for this refreshed worldtimer include a limited diamond set version, a version on a strap with iridescent blue ocean waters, and a bracelet version with a more matte blue ...
Monochrome
First Look - The New Silver-Toned Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar 5236P
Widely regarded as a technical and aesthetic masterpiece, Patek Philippe’s In-Line Perpetual Calendar returned in grand form at Watches & Wonders this year, alongside dozens of other new watches, in platinum with a silver dial. Displaying the day, date and month on a single line in a panoramic aperture at noon, few perpetual calendars can […]
SJX Watches
Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G
Patek Philippe’s mastery of complications is evident at all levels. The brand’s ability to elevate even simple complications is on full display in the Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G, a smaller and more focused take on the alarm watch than the discontinued spider-like Alarm Travel Time 5520P from 2019. This puts the most refined alarm movement on the market in the popular hobnail-flanked Calatrava case, capped with punchy green and blue fumé dials. Initial thoughts Launched in 2019, Patek Philippe’s Alarm Travel Time ref. 5520 was a polarising design from the start, with the appearance of four crowns - three of which were actually screw-locked pushers - when combined with the four lugs giving the watch an octopoid appearance. Looks aside, it was Patek Philippe’s first wristwatch with an alarm, and introduced a refined new calibre. This year Patek Philippe builds on that foundation without the travel time functionality and streamlined looks, eliminating the appearance of an awkward double crown setting system. There is no actual change to the base movement’s functionality - save the deletion of the travel time module. Perhaps a decade ago this bright green dial, or even the blue, would feel out of place in a high-grade watch, but today it fits right into the brand’s extremely colourful and contemporary catalogue. Even so, the dial design is sure to be polarising, especially the conflict between the 12 o’clock marker and alarm indicator, which the latter s...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm Ref. 5322G
Patek Philippe’s mastery of complications is evident at all levels. The brand’s ability to elevate even simple complications is on full display in the Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G, a smaller and more focused take on the alarm watch than the discontinued spider-like Alarm Travel Time 5520P from 2019. This puts the most refined alarm movement on the market in the popular hobnail-flanked Calatrava case, capped with punchy green and blue fumé dials. Initial thoughts Launched in 2019, Patek Philippe’s Alarm Travel Time ref. 5520 was a polarising design from the start, with the appearance of four crowns - three of which were actually screw-locked pushers - when combined with the four lugs giving the watch an octopoid appearance. Looks aside, it was Patek Philippe’s first wristwatch with an alarm, and introduced a refined new calibre. This year Patek Philippe builds on that foundation without the travel time functionality and streamlined looks, eliminating the appearance of an awkward double crown setting system. There is no actual change to the base movement’s functionality - save the deletion of the travel time module. Perhaps a decade ago this bright green dial, or even the blue, would feel out of place in a high-grade watch, but today it fits right into the brand’s extremely colourful and contemporary catalogue. Even so, the dial design is sure to be polarising, especially the conflict between the 12 o’clock marker and alarm indicator, which the latter s...
Hodinkee
Introducing: TAG Heuer Formula 1 'Solargraph' Softens Up With New Pastels
What We Know It's easy to argue that the relaunch of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 (with the added bonus of a solar-powered movement) was both highly anticipated and resulted in one of the most fun summer watches of 2025. Some of the watches stuck around, and some were short-term limited editions tied to different Formula 1 races throughout the year. But if you were waiting for alternative watches (especially vintage-inspired ones), you're in luck, because the brand has dozens of previous variations they haven't tapped to re-release yet. So with that in mind, TAG Heuer has gone for more pastel-inspired releases that start pre-sale on April 28. The new Formula 1 models come in five variations. In a pastel blue, beige/yellow, or pink TH-Polylight cases (TAG Heuer's proprietary bio-polyamide plastic) that are color matched to their opaline dials and Polylight bezels or with sandblasted steel cases with violet-blue dials/bezel with pink accents or pastel green dials/bezels (with eight VS-grade diamonds in place of the circular hour markers), there's a lot of variations available. There's no doubt that these watches lean a bit more feminine than previous releases. The sizing is pretty unisex, however, measuring 38mm by 9.9mm with solid casebacks and screw-down crowns, giving the watch 100m of water resistance. The watches with the Polylight cases come on color-matched rubber straps with pin buckles, while the stainless steel versions have matching sandblasted stainless steel three-ro...
Teddy Baldassarre
Editors' Picks: Our Favorites From Watches & Wonders 2026
The best and brightest of this year's show, as chosen by our editorial team. More
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders: Tudor Updates the Black Bay Ceramic with a New Bracelet
“So many Tudors, so little time.” That could be a bumper sticker, a tattoo, and perhaps even the Watches & Wonders motto in almost any year the event takes place. One of the real challenges of the show, at least in the very first moments of it, is deciding which Tudor releases to focus on. As we’ve discussed many times, Tudor is one of the only brands that does not give press early access to news of their new releases. Each of the last few years, their official press release has hit while our team was on the shuttle from our hotel to Palexpo for the first day of the show (where we always meet with Tudor first thing in the morning). Part of those first few hours of Watches & Wonders always involves discussing and trying to predict which of their novelties are going to be of the greatest interest to our readers. This year, it was pretty clear that the new Monarch was going to be the most discussed new Tudor release. It’s a brand new watch, after all, with a new case and bracelet design, and a new movement. Even if it went over like a lead balloon with the public, that’s clearly the most newsworthy release and the one to lead with. The Black Bay 54 in blue also felt like it would generate a lot of discussion. And we wouldn’t have suspected it at the time, but the Royal relaunch is actually pretty major as well – those watches are much better in person than we could have imagined from the press release, and they represent a substantial investment on Tudor’s p...
Worn & Wound
Hamilton Celebrates America’s 250th Anniversary with a Special Khaki Field Mechanical
Hamilton is marking the United States’ 250th anniversary with a new limited release tied to both the brand’s American roots and its ties to military history. The Khaki Field Mechanical America 250 Anniversary US Edition is a U.S.-exclusive model limited to 1,776 pieces, referencing, of course, the year the Declaration of Independence was signed. Founded in Lancaster, Pennsylvania in 1892, Hamilton is using this release to revisit one of its lesser-known military references. The watch takes inspiration from the FAPD 5101 navigator’s watch, developed in the early 1970s for U.S. Air Force navigators during the Vietnam era. Produced for only a short period, the original model has since become one of the rarer Hamilton military watches. It featured a 36mm parkerized steel case, slightly larger than many field watches of its era, and was powered by the 17-jewel Hamilton caliber 684 (a movement developed specifically for that watch and not used elsewhere in the brand’s catalogue). Several of those defining details carry into this new iteration to celebrate the U.S.’s semiquincentennial anniversary (keep that word in your back pocket for trivia night). The case remains 36mm, preserving the footprint of the original reference, while fixed bars are used to keep the strap securely in place. Hamilton has also fitted the watch with an acrylic box-shaped crystal and a protective dust cover, furthering the vintage elements of the original reference point of this model. The dial...
Monochrome
Hands-on - The New Tudor Black Bay 54 Blue
Tudor’s Black Bay line has grown steadily over the years, moving from the larger early models to more compact and wearable formats. After the original Black Bay and the Black Bay 58, as well as the oversized Black Bay 68, the Black Bay 54 came in as the smallest of the lot, not to mention […]
Deployant
WWG26 Armchair Picks: Robin’s Top 3 from New Releases
DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors This year’s novelties from Watches & Wonders Geneva (WWG26) was a little mix – there were some pleasant surprises, and there were a few that had taken a more safer and predictable path. As usual, we will be selecting 3 of our favourite timepieces from this year’s event. It took quite a while for me [...] The post WWG26 Armchair Picks: Robin’s Top 3 from New Releases appeared first on DEPLOYANT.
SJX Watches
Richard Mille Goes Hyper Lightweight with the RM 55-01
In an unexpected departure from their its horological extravaganza, Richard Mille has just unveiled the time-only RM 55-01. With a focus on simplified movement architecture and lightness, the RM 55-01’s movement is a hand-wound exercise in restraint and weighs under 5 g – equivalent to one sheet of A4 paper. Initial thoughts At its debut in the early 2000s, Richard Mille basically introduced and then perfected the niche offering of ultra-expensive, “hyper” sports watches, juggling complications, materials and bold aesthetics to create an outrageously expensive cocktail of lightness and ergonomics. With the RM55-01 the same brand returns to the basics, with a caliber developed for extreme lightness, doing away with automatic winding or any complications. The watch only tells the hours, minutes and seconds - which is not really something one expects from Richard Mille these days. This RM 55-01 feels like a spiritual descendant of the discontinued RM 55 “Bubba Watson”. The case lines and the movement itself are very reminiscent of that model, although the RM 055 was mostly marketed as a light but sturdy golfer’s watch. The new RM55-01 is presented as a pure exercise in weight reduction. Though the price of the RM 55-01 is unavailable, it is probably unjustifiable in any tangible or intrinsic sense. But is a mechanical watch that weighs as much as a few sheets of paper extremely cool? Yes – if you can afford it. Airy construction The RM 55-01 is built with ...
Hodinkee
Auctions: Previewing The Monaco Legend Spring 2026 Auction
The spring auction season is sneaking up on us quickly. Things start early with Sotheby's Hong Kong auction (with its boatload of Cartier), which slightly edges Monaco Legend Group out of the gate, as their auction starts one day earlier. But on April 25 and 26, MLG will open its spring auction, which promises to be one of the more interesting and eclectic vintage-focused auctions of the season. That's not to say it's all vintage, of course. The auction starts out with a Bamford-modified blackout GMT (that the Parmegiani family behind the auction house seems to have an affinity for), an RM35-02 Nadal, a Journe Répétition Souveraine, and more Patek 5004s than you can shake a stick at, keeping things spicy. Lot 109 – F.P. Journe Répétition Souveraine – €400,000 to €800,000. There are 288 lots, and while the top lots sometimes feel a bit obvious to call out (mostly because everyone likely peers longingly at these watches and wishes they could bid), it's incredibly important to examine what is driving the top end of the market. And if you weren't paying close enough attention, you'd potentially miss the top lot. While it might look like a Rolex Daytona, like the ref. 116509 with a Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial and different indices, this is a whole different ballgame. Lot 78 of the auction is one of the "FAB 4" Daytonas, four unique platinum Zenith Daytonas, each executed with a hardstone dial (one with turquoise, one with lapis lazuli, two mother-of-pearl) made at...
Deployant
WWG26 Armchair Picks: Chester’s Top 3 from the new releases
DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors These three watches were selected because each represents a different approach to high‑end mechanical construction. Grand Seiko’s SBGZ011 demonstrates the Micro Artist Studio’s work with Spring Drive and overtly hand‑finished case and dial. Patek Philippe’s 7047G is an ultra‑complicated minute repeater masquerading within the dimensions and subtlety of a simple time‑only watch. A. Lange & [...] The post WWG26 Armchair Picks: Chester’s Top 3 from the new releases appeared first on DEPLOYANT.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Mido’s Affordable Rolex Datejust Alternative: Hands-On With The Datoday
We’ve always had a thing for Mido. It’s a brand we talk about a lot at TBWS because, when someone is ready to break into the four-figure range without getting too wild, Mido usually has something worth looking at. They’ve got a huge catalog of fun divers, GMTs, and everyday pieces, and that variety has always been part of the appeal for us. So when Mido announced the refreshed Commander Datoday, I was stoked to hear we’d be getting one in for review. It looked like the kind of watch that could make a lot of sense as an everyday option, but still clean up well enough if you wanted to wear it a little differently. The post Mido’s Affordable Rolex Datejust Alternative: Hands-On With The Datoday appeared first on Two Broke Watch Snobs.
Fratello
Flying Six IWC Pilot’s Watch Le Petit Prince 20th-Anniversary Editions
To mark two decades of collaboration with the estate of Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, IWC introduces five Pilot’s Watch models in the Le Petit Prince collection, available in 5N gold and steel. The collection spans multiple case sizes and complications, ranging from 36mm to 43mm, and includes both time-only and chronograph executions. The sixth novelty in […] Visit Flying Six IWC Pilot’s Watch Le Petit Prince 20th-Anniversary Editions to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Stratospheric Gyrotourbillon
Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has introduced its next-generation multi-axis tourbillon as part of its new Hybris Inventiva collection, introduced purely to explore complications previously thought to be ”impossible” to achieve. The collection opens with the Master Hybris Inventiva Gyrotourbillon À Stratosphère, which improves upon prior Gyrotourbillon models by taking the oscillator through 98% of possible positions. Initial thoughts The impressive movement of the Stratosphere was ostensibly developed to improve accuracy, and on a theoretical basis the multi-axis design should go a long way to eliminate positional errors. Of course, in reality it’s difficult to outperform simplicity. That said, the new cal. 178 is a thoughtfully engineered and impressively constructed mechanical sculpture that does credit to its maker, showcasing JLC’s breadth of capabilities. It’s also quite wearable by the standards of its category. Some past Gyrotourbillon models suffered from excessive size - namely the ungainly Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2. Fortunately, the Stratosphère is comparatively sleek at just 42 mm, though the movement uses every bit of its 16.15 mm thickness. Understanding the Inventiva The new Hybris Inventiva collection has a different mandate than the existing Hybris Mechanica and Hybris Artistica collections. Specifically, each Inventiva will features just one complication, albeit one taken to new heights. The Inventiva collection will feature ideas born from blue-sky...
Time+Tide
TAG Heuer’s new Aquaracer Professional 500 brings even more depth to the Aquaracer, in more ways than one
TAG Heuer places the new Professional 500 between a standard Aquaracer and a Superdiver, offering 500m of water resistance in slick titaniumThe post TAG Heuer’s new Aquaracer Professional 500 brings even more depth to the Aquaracer, in more ways than one appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Designer Profile: Timex's Giorgio Galli
We take a trip to Italy to talk about the design process, the importance of light, and his latest creation, the S1 Automatic.
Hodinkee
The Tudor Black Bay Buyer's Guide
Learn the ins and outs of Tudor’s most iconic watch.