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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.
The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monobalancier Titanium offers a subtler take on the brand’s avant-garde designs Time+Tide
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monobalancier Titanium offers May 3, 2023

The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monobalancier Titanium offers a subtler take on the brand’s avant-garde designs

The Excalibur Monobalancier Titanium brings lightness to the original Excalibur design A case-matching multi-link bracelet completes the monochrome design Equipped with a micro-rotor, the calibre RD720SQ is an utterly avant-garde take on a time-only movement You may be surprised to learn, as I was, that Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur collection is coming up on nearly two … ContinuedThe post The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monobalancier Titanium offers a subtler take on the brand’s avant-garde designs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Inside Tudor Manufacture: The Pursuit of Mechanical and Industrial Perfection SJX Watches
Tudor Manufacture May 1, 2023

Inside Tudor Manufacture: The Pursuit of Mechanical and Industrial Perfection

Tudor, in my estimation, makes watches that are the best value in the under-US$5,000 price segment. In fact, the brand arguably offers the best value proposition in most price segments, simply because its watches have specs, features, and quality that are unrivalled, even at several steps up the price ladder. The brand’s value proposition began in 2015 when Tudor launched its first in-house movement inside the unloved North Flag. But the compelling nature of its watches notwithstanding, Tudor has long suffered from being perceived as a “lesser” Rolex. In fairness, that was probably an apt description of the brand up until the mid 2000s when Tudor began its gradual but determined evolution into an independent brand. The most tangible testament to Tudor’s success as its own brand came online last year, when the Tudor manufacture in Le Locle began operations. The manufacture is the first time ever that Tudor has its own factory. Historically the brand relied on Rolex cases and outsourced movements, and operated from several floors inside the Rolex campus in Geneva. Now Tudor boasts an impressive, no-expense-spared facility that spans a generous 10,642 m2 (about 114,000 ft2), with half of that being workspace, a scale that easily allows for an annual production of up to the mid-six figures. With a roof covered in solar panels and a foundation that stretches deep into the bedrock of the Swiss Jura, the manufacture is a monument to high-quality, affordable watchmaking. ...

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MICRO MONDAYS: The Atmoss SR-01 may have set the benchmark for budget pilot’s watches Time+Tide
May 1, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The Atmoss SR-01 may have set the benchmark for budget pilot’s watches

Editor’s note: Due to unforeseen circumstances, Warrick’s Atmoss project will have to be put on hold for the moment to ensure the products can be delivered to the desired standard once resumed. Follow @atmoss.watches on Instagram for the latest updates Bringing an idea to reality is a daunting task, and when it comes to watches, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Atmoss SR-01 may have set the benchmark for budget pilot’s watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Chablis: A Top-Class Cru White Wine That Doesn’t Get The Love It Deserves – Reprise Quill & Pad
Apr 30, 2023

Chablis: A Top-Class Cru White Wine That Doesn’t Get The Love It Deserves – Reprise

Why is it that Chablis never seems to get the love it deserves? Why do so many wine lovers, even those who buy and drink Chablis wine, often dismiss it as merely a little sibling of White Burgundy? Ken Gargett considers that no matter where Chablis sits in your perception, it should not be ignored or treated with the contempt of familiarity. Chablis is one of the world’s great white wines.

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Six of the best Apple Watch faces to make your wrist computer a more horological experience Time+Tide
Apr 29, 2023

Six of the best Apple Watch faces to make your wrist computer a more horological experience

Look, Tim Cook (or Tim Apple, for the less informed) is CEO of a 2.6 trillion dollar tech juggernaut, so he can wear any watch he wants. Being an old-school company man, he’s a great cheerleader for the brand, and of course, rocks the useful and highly capable Apple Watch. A photo recently appeared on … ContinuedThe post Six of the best Apple Watch faces to make your wrist computer a more horological experience appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Zelos Introduces their First GMT with the Miyota 9075 “Flyer” Movement Worn & Wound
Apr 28, 2023

Zelos Introduces their First GMT with the Miyota 9075 “Flyer” Movement

The rise of the affordable “true” GMT continues to be a strong trend in the microbrand arena, as more and more ready new watches sporting the Miyota 9075. This caliber is beginning to feel like a true game changer in the space, allowing brands whose bread and butter are sub $1,000 watches to offer a much sought after complication that consumers would previously have to spend many times that amount to acquire. The latest entrant in an increasingly crowded marketplace for these watches is an old favorite of ours: Zelos.  Zelos watches have always represented value, whether we’re talking about divers under $500 or a Swiss tourbillon with a case made from exotic titanium alloys. Their watches have a colorful, materials oriented style that places a high value on texture and provides their customers with something unique. For this first batch of GMTs, which are part of the Mako line, each option is quintessential Zelos, meaning that even the most conservative watch in the group is still pretty memorable.  Of the three new GMTs that make their debut today, the most simple is the Mako 300M GMT Frost, which appears at first to be a stark white dial, but is actually fully lumed, so when the lights go out and the lume is completely charged, the entire dial glows, with the “black lume” hands and hour markers standing in relief. The orange arrow in the GMT hand and a bit of text in the same shade are the only additional colors found on the dial, which is somewhat unusual fo...

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Christopher Ward Launches New Integrated Watch, The Twelve Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Launches New Integrated Watch Apr 27, 2023

Christopher Ward Launches New Integrated Watch, The Twelve

Christopher Ward has revealed an entirely new collection called The Twelve, an integrated bracelet sport/dress watch with slim dimensions, a slick dial texture, and, naturally, a 12 sided bezel piece. The new watches take a broad slice of inspiration from history, and land in relatively familiar territory as a result, however, as a whole, end up representing something unique in the sub $1,500 price range: a fully integrated steel or titanium bracelet paired to a sub 10mm case with a chronometer spec movement inside. The brand is quite upfront about taking a page out of history with this one, going so far as directly naming the standard bearers to place their watch in some pretty prestigious company right off the bat.  The Twelve is a 40mm watch that gets steel and titanium variants. The steel examples measure 9.95mm in thickness, while the titanium pair shave a full millimeter off that number to crack just under 9mm. The lug to lug distance is 44.5mm, and that measurement appears to be taken from the ends of the case that link to the bracelet, which are fixed male pieces. The weight of the steel watch is 65 grams, while the titanium tips the scales at a mere 41 grams. Overall, an impressive set of numbers that should equate to a pretty incredible on-wrist experience, though we can’t say for sure until we’re able to get some hands-on time with it. Each of the material options utilize Sellita automatic movements, with the steel getting an SW200 rated to +/- 20 seconds p...

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[VIDEO] Review: The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Worn & Wound
Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Are there Apr 27, 2023

[VIDEO] Review: The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta

Are there any watches or watch brands that you just have an odd relationship with? Not in a literal sense, but rather in the sense of vacillating appreciation. Once you loved them, then you didn’t, then, on a cold rainy night, you met again by chance and it was happily ever after? Ok, that’s overly dramatic, but the reason for this odd intro is that the brand featured in this review is one that I have had mixed emotions about over the years, making this very post the first time I’ve ever actually reviewed, neigh, worn one, despite the prominence and popularity of the brand. As you already know, the watch is a Panerai Radiomir Quaranta, and this review was a long time coming. You see, before the days of Worn & Wound, when my knowledge of watches was only that of the proverbial tip of the iceberg, Panerai was a brand I quite admired. I recall, distinctly, walking past a Panerai boutique on the East Side of Manhattan and seeing the Black Seal model in the window. It was stunning. I stared at it like in some scene from a bad Hallmark movie of a sad child looking at a puppy dog. But hardly being in the market for a luxury watch at the time, I eventually just kept walking. Years later, after launching Worn & Wound, my knowledge and exposure grew. 2011 was a different time for watches. Microbrands weren’t quite a thing. Tudor wasn’t for sale in the US. Vintage watches were still a niche, and dealers were few and far between. The “internet” was sort of mistrusted by ...

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Urwerk Introduces the UR-100V “Magic T” SJX Watches
Urwerk Introduces Apr 27, 2023

Urwerk Introduces the UR-100V “Magic T”

Continuing with iterations on its bestseller, Urwerk has just taken the covers off the UR-100V “Magic T”. Retaining Urwerk’s signature wandering hours time display, the Magic T has both its case and matching bracelet in finely-blasted titanium, giving it a look that is distinct from the UR-100V “Full Metal Jacket” launched in 2021. Initial thoughts At first glance, the Magic T looks identical to its 2021 predecessor. Both are identical in design and share a matte titanium case and bracelet. But in person the Magic T is clearly different, even though it’s only the finishing of the titanium that differs. The Magic T has a finer, smoother finish that gives it a softer, more refined feel. This gives more tactile appeal than the Full Metal Jacket for me, so anyone who missed out on last year’s model should not have any regrets. That said, I hope Urwerk doesn’t do too many limited-edition variants of the UR-100V on a bracelet, because it would risk getting repetitive. For now, however, the runs are small enough and editions few enough that the model remains appealing and interesting. Finely “shotblasted” Unlike the Full Metal Jacket that was finished with a tangibly granular finish, the Magic T is entirely in “sanded shotblasted titanium”. In other words, it was blasted with smaller abrasive particles than those used for the Full Metal Jacket, resulting in its smoother, finer finish. The difference in finish is tactile enough that both watches feel differ...

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Inside the Collection: Common Threads Through Uncommon Chronographs Worn & Wound
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Apr 26, 2023

Inside the Collection: Common Threads Through Uncommon Chronographs

I am not a chronograph guy. At least that’s what I keep telling myself. I’ve owned my share of chronographs over the years, but they always seem to be first on the chopping block when something new comes along that I need to clear out space for. They also, in general, don’t appeal to me aesthetically. I tend to like a less cluttered, more serene dial than what you’ll find on a typical chronograph, simply because of the nature of the complication itself. And I certainly don’t belong in the nerdiest segment of chronograph lovers, who have deeply held beliefs about the best chronograph movements ever made, and can rattle off the most minute differences between Speedmaster references at the drop of a hat. I admire the dedication and knowledge of these hardcore chronograph superfans, but I’ve never counted myself among them.  And yet, day to day, the watch I’ve worn the most by far over the last year is a chronograph that flies in the face of everything I tend to think about my own watch preferences. And if you were to ask me, “Hey Zach, out of all of your watches, which one has your favorite dial?” I’d have to respond with another chronograph, that has one of the most intricate and beautifully made dials I’ve had the pleasure of owning. So what’s going on here? How did such a non-chrono guy wind up with this weird chrono subcollection?  My IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Ceratanium has effectively become my daily wearer since picking it up last sum...

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The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu evokes a sense of occult hedonism (in a good way) Time+Tide
Hublot Spirit Apr 26, 2023

The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu evokes a sense of occult hedonism (in a good way)

When I first came across the Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu in white ceramic, I was blown away by both its concept and its execution. When we talk about artistry in watchmaking, we’re usually discussing traditional methods such as enamel, laqcuer, stone marquetry etc. In a more contemporary setting, we take into account the sculptural … ContinuedThe post The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu evokes a sense of occult hedonism (in a good way) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Serica Bolsters the 5303 COSC Antimagnetic Diving Chronometer from Within Worn & Wound
Serica Bolsters Apr 26, 2023

Serica Bolsters the 5303 COSC Antimagnetic Diving Chronometer from Within

Although Serica has only been around since 2019, it feels like the young watch brand has been around for ages. In my opinion, a lot of that has to do with the maturity in which they conduct themselves, both in brand presence and progression. With any Serica novelty, you can bet that their approach to any watch design is performed with metronomic consistency – typically with minimal branding, steady visual cues, and a general inspiration by way of vintage military timepieces. It seems that any change that’s going to be made within each reference will be incremental, but that doesn’t mean the impact can be monumental. Such is the case with the new and improved Serica 5303 COSC Antimagnetic Diver Chronometer. To understand the latest update to the Serica 5303, we must look within. Serica has opted to keep the movement within the Soprod family, but instead of using the previous Newton P092 automatic, the Serica 5303 COSC now draws its power from the Caliber M100. The Soprod Caliber M100 is buoyed by a glucydur balance, incabloc shock system, a 42 hour power reserve, and most importantly, a 3.2mm movement thickness. With approximately 1.4mm of extra room to play using the transitional movement inside of the 5303 COSC case, Serica has built in several antimagnetic pieces including a soft iron movement holder, soft iron dial and a soft iron inner caseback. As a result, the magnetic resistance for the Serica 5303 COSC diver has skyrocketed from the traditional Swiss standard...

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The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds – A Classic With A Modern Touch WatchAdvice
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds Apr 26, 2023

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds – A Classic With A Modern Touch

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is an iconic watch and sets the standard of what a Dress watch should be. Refined, subtle and easy to read. And the new Reverso Tribute Small Seconds is just this. What We Like Timeless DesignClean and easy to readGood size and wears well What We Don’t No LuminescenceNot an everyday watchStraps take time to break in Overall Rating: 8.4/10 Value for money: 7/10Wearability: 8/10Design: 9/10Build quality: 9.5/10 I’ll be honest here. Even with all the watches I’ve tried on and owned over the years, I’ve never owned a square or rectangular watch, nor had I tried one on for longer than 2 minutes in a boutique or dealer. So when Jaeger-LeCoultre offered two of their new Reverso Tribute Small Seconds to wear around for a week, I jumped at the chance to test out this icon of the watch world. The pink gold and black dial Reverso Tribute Small Seconds mid flip – a fun watch to play with on the writst! Jaeger-LeCoultre launched their new Reverso Tribute Small Seconds at Watches and Wonders last month in four dial/colour variants – three in pink gold with black, burgundy and silver dials, and a steel with silver opaline dial. In case you missed it, you can read about it here. All are stunning examples of their heritage and as the name suggests, a Tribute to the originals from 1931. I had the pleasure of going hands on with the steel variant with silver opaline dial, and the pink gold variant with the classic black dial, both with the Fagliano Co...

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Introducing the O.G Deep Space, the First Watch from a New Brand Promising Small Batch, Themed Watches Worn & Wound
Apr 25, 2023

Introducing the O.G Deep Space, the First Watch from a New Brand Promising Small Batch, Themed Watches

O.G Watches is a new brand that has recently come to our attention, helmed by Oliver Gallaugher, a Bristol, England based watch lover and self-taught designer. Oliver has worked with watch brands in the past during the design stage, helping them to, as he puts it, conceptualize their watch ideas. Now, he’s started his own brand, under his own name, and it launches with a project called Deep Space that is actually quite ambitious. It also makes good use of his worldwide industry connections to create a final product that seems to combine many of Oliver’s own wide ranging interests. For O.G, Oliver promises a brand that will produce watches in small runs, each with their own unique themes. The Deep Space caught our attention as a first effort that’s remarkably polished, and has us interested in what might come next.  The star of the show is certainly the dial, which is said to be inspired by the flicker of stars in the night sky. This is, of course, fertile ground for watch designers, who have been making dials that incorporate nighttime scenes or star inspired motifs for almost as long as watchmaking has existed. What Oliver has done with the Deep Space is craft a dial that evokes the night sky almost completely through texture. The “stars” are hand engraved on the dial’s surface, and the entire dial has been brushed diagonally and given a coating that is meant to reflect the maximum amount of light when the dial is tilted, creating a “flashing” effect betw...

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The Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze Brown is another vintage-inspired hit for a price that’s too good to be true Time+Tide
Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze Brown Apr 25, 2023

The Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze Brown is another vintage-inspired hit for a price that’s too good to be true

Back in 3500 BC, in what I can only imagine was a dusty cave, a gentleman with a big forehead and a loincloth built a fire in a circle of rocks. Seems like that would be a regular occurrence back then, right? You’ve got to warm up the cave for the kids, after all. Well, … ContinuedThe post The Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze Brown is another vintage-inspired hit for a price that’s too good to be true appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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