Hodinkee
Introducing: Patek Philippe Releases The Cubitus In 40mm
Two full-gold Cubitus models now in a 40mm case.
Results for NOS (New Old Stock)
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Hodinkee
Monochrome
Introducing - The Vacheron Constantin Solaria Ultra Grand Complication Becomes the World’s Most Complicated Wristwatch
Celebrating its grand 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin’s bespoke Les Cabinotiers atelier presents a record-breaking watch with no fewer than 41 complications. Still holding the record for the world’s most complex pocket watch, the Berkley, itself beating its own reference 57260, Vacheron now claims the title for the world’s most complicated wristwatch, overtaking the Franck Muller […]
![[VIDEO] Deep in the Heart of Texas: Recapping the First Ever Windup Watch Fair Dallas](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2025/03/GENERAL_37.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Deep in the Heart of Texas: Recapping the First Ever Windup Watch Fair Dallas
Everything’s bigger in Texas, and that now includes the Windup Watch Fair! On March 15-16, 2025, Windup made its grand Lone Star State debut at the historic Hickory Street Annex in Dallas. Kicking off its 10th-anniversary celebrations, the fair brought together over 40 watch brands, passionate collectors, and curious newcomers-because let’s be honest, who doesn’t love hanging with a bunch of watch lovers? The Hickory Street Annex, originally built in 1921 as a Gulf Oil distribution center, set the perfect scene with its warm-industrial vibes. The airy, two-level venue gave guests plenty of room to dive into the world of horology-chatting with brand reps, trying on watches, and maybe even convincing themselves that they definitely need just one more piece for their collection. The lineup? Absolutely stacked. Christopher Ward dazzled with their Anglo-Swiss masterpieces, including the ever-impressive Bel Canto and The Twelve. Oris, while proudly sporting Miss Piggy pink, also celebrated 60 years of dive watch excellence with a special anniversary edition, while Zodiac launched some striking new designs in the form of the Super Sea Wolf Compression Skeleton Night Diver. One of the weekend’s standout moments was the special screening of a brand-new documentary, America Telling Time: 150 Years of Bulova, which chronicles the brand’s history of innovation and firsts. The film explored the brand’s deep roots in American watchmaking, highlighting its role in everyth...
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Join Us Live for Watches and Wonders Reactions
Watches and Wonders is right around the corner. Soon enough, we’ll know all about the latest and greatest releases from the biggest names in horology and all of our burning questions will be answered. Are those Rolex “leaks” real? Will Tudor rerelease the Montecarlo? What kind of sandwiches will be served in the press room? I don’t know about you, but my favorite part of the Watches & Wonders experience is finally getting the chance to chop it up with fellow watch nerds about the new releases. That’s why we’re going live. On Tuesday, April 1st from 11:00 AM to 1:00 PM ET, I’ll be joined by my colleague Devin Pennypacker on the Worn & Wound YouTube channel for a special Watches & Wonders Reaction Livestream. We’ll break down all the news, giving our takes on the biggest drops, and, of course, fielding your questions and hot takes in real time. Our editorial team will be on-site in Geneva for the show, bringing you the latest coverage straight from the floor. Expect a steady stream of articles, social content, and videos highlighting the most exciting releases. And, wifi permitting, we’ll do our best to have someone from the team call into the livestream to give us their impressions from Geneva. So grab a coffee (or something stronger), pull up a chair, and join us for a couple of hours of watch talk. And don’t forget to bring your hot takes. Set your reminders now, and we’ll see you in the chat. The post Join Us Live for Watches and Wonders Reactions a...
![[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Citizen Promaster Navihawk 40](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2025/03/Citizen_Navihawk_Copper_019.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Citizen Promaster Navihawk 40
Citizen- it’s a brand name loaded with connotations for many enthusiasts. For me, before I knew that watches were something you could be enthusiastic about, it represented a significant step up from the Casios and Fossils I wore. It was the ubiquitous display case filled with somewhat flashy and easily recognizable watches that I was drawn to when visiting the mall as a teenager, yet was completely out of reach for my weekend job at Taco Bell budget. Though phrases like “wrist presence” and “over engineered” weren’t in my high school vocabulary, if I asked my past self what drew me to these often-oversized watches, I’d probably find a less articulate way to describe these characteristics. These days, as a budget conscious enthusiast with thankfully a bit more cash than my Taco Bell days, my views on the brand have evolved. I now associate it with attainable prices that punch above their price point and a versatile and extensive catalog that has been embraced by general consumers and enthusiasts alike. In a landscape where many brands are moving up market and MSRPs are seemingly tracking egg prices, it’s easy to see why Citizen has become the default choice for many collectors seeking value driven iconic designs in the sub $1000 (and often considerably less) category. While some Citizen models such as the Promaster line of dive watches and the integrated bracelet Tsuyosa have been accepted with open hearts and empty wrists in enthusiast circles, others with ...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Arnold & Son Constant Force Tourbillon 11
Arnold & Son presents the limited edition Constant Force Tourbillon 11, a classical beauty inspired by the first tourbillon created by Abraham-Louis Breguet based on John Arnold’s marine chronometer movement no. 11. Reunited once again, the yellow gold watch, with a constant force mechanism on the dial and a tourbillon regulator on the caseback, is […]
SJX Watches
A Voutilainen KV20i Reversed in Frosted Gilt for GMT Milano
An Italian retailer best known for representing independent watchmakers, GMT Milano has just announced its own Voutilainen limited edition, the KV20i Reversed GMT Milano. Based on Voutilainen’s inverted Vingt-8, the KV20i GMT edition sports a 4N gold-gilt movement that stands in bright contrast with the titanium case. The combination is classical and brings to mind historical pocket watches with frosted gilt movements. Initial thoughts The KV20i for GMT Milano employs a familiar combination of colours and finishes, but it stills manages to look fresh enough to be interesting. It helps that Voutilainen’s quality is impeccable, so everything that brand produces possesses a sheen that adds to the appeal, regardless of colour or style. A good part of Voutilainen’s business is customised watches, so the GMT edition isn’t unique per se. But it is a good looking watch that is instantly appealing. This KV20i is also priced the same as a standard version from Voutilainen, so it’s also a fair proposition in value terms. A reversed watch The KV20i is the second generation of Voutilainen’s “reverse” model that debuted in 2019. It’s essentially an inverted version of the Vingt-8, the brand’s signature chronometer wristwatch. The calibre has been turned over so that most of the action is on the front. The balance wheel, barrel, and going train are visible on the open dial, along with the indirect going train that relocates the hands from the back to front and centre....
Worn & Wound
Formex Introduces the Essence Ceramica Skeleton COSC, Featuring a Full Ceramic Bracelet (with Micro-Adjust!)
We talk a lot about Formex here, and for good reason. Now celebrating its 25th year, Formex has built a well-earned reputation for pushing the limits of what we can expect from small, technical brands, and they’ve done it all while cultivating a pretty dedicated audience. Head to a Windup Watch Fair anywhere in the country and you’re sure to find a thick mass of enthusiasts trying to squeeze their way up to the Formex table in the hopes of checking out whatever wild watch the brand has most recently introduced. Formex’s latest and greatest is a new take on their fan-favorite Essence, only this time, it’s ceramic. The Essence Ceramica Skeleton COSC is a serious statement of technical capacity for a brand that has, up until now, never produced a fully ceramic watch (or, at least to my knowledge, a skeletonized one). With the Essence Ceramica Skeleton COSC, they’ve managed to do it while not only maintaining all the complexities of the Essence case - like the suspended mid-case the brand is known for - but also while introducing what they purport to be the world’s first micro-adjustable ceramic bracelet. On some level, it’s not remotely surprising that, with their first-ever ceramic watch, Formex would look to blow the competition out of the water, or that, in that attempt, they would largely succeed. I’ve yet to see these new watches in person (hopefully soon), but at first glance, these seem to be finished to a level far beyond what we normally see from ...
Time+Tide
The T+T team were everywhere at the F1 Australian Grand Prix - here were the highlights
Alex, Andrew, Borna and Jamie divided and conquered to cover the most important watch news of F1's season opener.The post The T+T team were everywhere at the F1 Australian Grand Prix – here were the highlights appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Breitling Acquires Gallet
After several weeks of speculation, Breitling has made an official announcement that they have acquired Gallett, the Swiss watchmaker that traces its roots back to 1826. The news was first reported by Tony Traina and a small handful of other outlets back in February, but this is the first time Breitling has acknowledged the deal in a public way. Breitling had previously announced their acquisition of Universal Genéve in 2023, a move that immediately led many to wonder of Georges Kern, Breitling’s CEO, might be looking to make additional expansions to bolster his business. Now, with the Gallett acquisition, his plans and those of the Partners Group (the investment firm which has had a stake in Breitling since 2017) appear to be coming into focus. “This acquisition is a natural next step in Breitling’s expansion,” Kern said in a statement. “We are reviving Gallett under the umbrella of Breitling’s expertise and craftsmanship. Our vision is long-term – reviving Gallett as a strong brand in watchmaking, while honoring its legacy and innovation in chronographs.” Unlike watches in the upcoming Universal Genéve collection, it is expected that Gallett will be sold alongside Breitling in the brand’s boutiques and, presumably, other authorized channels. This will provide potential Breitling customers with a lower priced option and is something of a tacit admission that the asking price of a new Breitling has crept up to a level that some new customers might...
Monochrome
Portrait - Lithuanian Watchmaker Liudas Norkus and The Surprise Success of his LN1 Regulator
The watch community can be a truly great thing, as every now and then it seems to embrace new ideas, new concepts, new people and brands with open arms. We’ve seen it happen in watches where the community can get involved in the design process, or with watch clubs bringing together brands and collectors. And […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Presage x Studio Ghibli Watch Review
It’s a little crazy to actually type this out but I never actually owned a Seiko watch until this year. Obviously I have reviewed, written about, photographed, and indeed appreciated dozens and dozens of Seikos throughout the decade I have been in this industry but there was never one that truly spoke to me as a collector. Well, that was until I saw news of the Presage SPB437, a beautiful limited edition done with a blue enamel dial as a tribute to Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind, one of my favorite movies of all time and the Hayao Miyazaki film that led to the creation of Studio Ghibli, the legendary Japanese animation studio. 2024 marked the 40th anniversary of Nausicaä which seems like the perfect opportunity to release a limited edition for the most hardcore fans. This is not the first Seiko watch done for Studio Ghibli as there was a pair of Presage watches released in 2020 for the also-great Porco Rosso. The first of these was the SNR047J1, a 500-piece limited edition done with a Spring Drive movement and a white enamel dial inspired by the cockpit of the Crimson Pig’s plane with subtle touches like red seconds hand, red R, and the The Tricolour Italian flag colors. The second of these was the SRQ033, a black enamel dial Spring Drive chronograph with similar color touches and a Tricolour seconds sub-dial at 3 o’clock that was limited to 600 pieces. These were magnificent pieces made for Ghibli-heads like myself though they were significantly pricer at ar...
SJX Watches
Blancpain Scales Down the Fifty Fathoms Tech
Primarily vintage-inspired, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was given a modern makeover with the first “Tech” model launched in 2023. Now Blancpain follows up with the Fifty Fathoms Tech Ocean Commitment IV. While retaining the same lug-less case, the latest model is more compact and streamlined than its Tech predecessor, though it’s still 45 mm in diameter. And it features an “absolute black” dial - coated with a substance that absorbs 97% of incident light - ensuring maximum contrast for the luminescent hands and block-shaped hour markers. Like earlier Ocean Commitment editions, which were all vintage-inspired, this watch will help support the Blancpain’s marine conservation efforts, specifically the Blancpain x Sulubaaï Marine Research Center in Palawan, Philippines. Initial thoughts The new Fifty Fathoms Tech offers notable refinements over the earlier Tech Gombessa edition from two years ago. While the oversized, 47 mm Tech Gombessa was designed primarily as a specialised diving instrument, making it arguably too large for everyday wear, the new model adopts a more conventional dive watch dimensions. At 45 mm, it’s still large but more manageable, improving its wearability. The “absolute black” dial is also an interesting upgrade that makes sense in a dive watch given the need for legibility. While Blancpain doesn’t specify the details of the dial coating, it appears to be similar to Vantablack and other blacker-than-black coatings used by other ...
Worn & Wound
The Story Behind the Havid Nagan Classic One with Founder Aren Bazerkanian
Last year, one of the most intriguing watches I had a chance to handle was Havid Nagan’s debut, the HN00. I spent a few weeks with it right around the time brand founder Aren Bazerkanian was promoting his second release, the HN01. Now, another year later, and Havid Nagan is back with their third effort, the Classic One. The new naming convention speaks to just how different the Classic One is from its predecessors, and reflects the brand pivoting and changing in real time. In speaking with Bazerkanian, however, it’s clear that those shifts reflect a deep confidence in his own vision, and not merely commercial practicality. “About two years ago, I found myself digging deeper and deeper into the vintage market,” Bazerkanian explained to me, when asked about the inspiration for the Classic One. “Namely, I was very interested in learning about vintage Patek 96 references, Urban Jurgensen, and Parmigiani Fleurier.” The Classic One, as the name implies, evokes classic dress watches like the ones mentioned by Bazerkanian, and many others. The 38mm case is just 9mm tall, making for an ideal wearing experience that isn’t exactly “vintage” in feel, but it’s adjacent to it. The case construction and finishing is very much that of a modern watch, with sharp transitions and clearly defined lines. But it wasn’t just vintage watches on Bazerkanian’s mind when he set about to create the Classic One. “My wife and I had welcomed our daughter,” he told me, “...
Fratello
Trying To Get Airborne With The Rolex Sky-Dweller In Yellow And Everose Gold On A Jubilee Bracelet
Honest question: why do people like the Sky-Dweller? Is it because the travel watch with the Saros annual calendar and Ring Command is a complicated piece of watchmaking? Is it the characteristic dial layout, perhaps? Or is it because if you wear this 42mm watch in precious metal, everybody within a hundred-meter radius will know […] Visit Trying To Get Airborne With The Rolex Sky-Dweller In Yellow And Everose Gold On A Jubilee Bracelet to read the full article.
Fratello
Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K - RJ’s Picks From Heuer, Breitling, Omega, and Rolex
Our managing editor, Nacho, asked us to choose our favorite vintage watches under €5K. First, we need to define what “vintage” means. There is no clear universal definition in the watch industry, but the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie once used 20 years or older as a guideline. To some purists, a vintage needs to […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K - RJ’s Picks From Heuer, Breitling, Omega, and Rolex to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Breitling’s Flagship Navitimer B19 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in Steel
The flagship watch of Breitling’s best-known watch, the Navitimer B19 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is now more affordable. The latest iteration with an “ice blue” dial retains the specs of the pink gold 140th anniversary edition launched last year, but trades precious metal for steel. Unlike last year’s limited edition, the new steel model is regular production and is priced under US$30,000, over Breitling’s traditional sweet spot on the price spectrum but still half the retail of the anniversary edition. Breitling Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar_Ref. PB1920251C1P1_RGB Initial thoughts The new Navitimer B19 keeps it affordable, relatively speaking, by combining Breitling’s excellent in-house B01 movement with the tried-and-tested Dubois Depraz perpetual calendar module. The resulting watch is thick at almost 15 mm high, but combines several complications in Breitling’s iconic slide-rule pilot’s chronograph. While the watch is pricier than most of Breitling’s offerings, it is one of the few perpetual calendar chronographs in this price range. Most of such watches tend to be a lot more expensive, although Austrian independent watchmaker Habring² offers similar for less in keeping with its focus on affordable complications. Value proposition The new B19 retains the same basic specs as its precious metal counterpart. The stainless steel case measures 43 mm in diameter and 14.94 mm in thickness. Water-resistant to 30 m, it features the Navit...
Fratello
Hands-On With The Ollech & Wajs C-1000 A
When Ollech & Wajs released the C-1000 A, I knew I had to spend some time with it. This watch is an interesting one that pays homage to the brand’s groundbreaking Caribbean 1000 from 1964. Ollech & Wajs is a brand that does not enter the mainstream conversation much, which is a shame because there’s […] Visit Hands-On With The Ollech & Wajs C-1000 A to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Returns with Slavic Bread-Creature Wristmon
Drawn from a Russian fairy tale about a bun coming to life, the Kolobok 2 arrives a year after Konstantin Chaykin revealed the original Kolobok. Like its predecessors in the Wristmon collection, this features a dial inspired by the titular character’s face. But the Kolobok 2 marks a departure from the first version in two notable ways: it is now a regular production watch rather than a limited edition, and it features a La Joux-Perret base movement instead of an ETA. Initial thoughts The Kolobok 2 is the latest of many Wristmon models, arguably too many to date. However, the fact that this is a regular production model, as opposed to a limited edition, is a positive development since it indicates the brand is leaving behind the multiple-edition approach. That aside, the watch itself is an upgrade over earlier versions. Although the new Kolobok 2 has the same simple functions arranged as a face, it is powered by a new movement based on the La Joux-Perret G200, replacing the modified ETA 2892-A2 used in preceding entry-level Wristmon models. This calibre is a step forward for the Wristmon model. Amongst other things that put it ahead of the ETA 2892, the G200 sports a a full balance bridge with a free-sprung balance. Another wristmon The Kolobok 2 retains the same dimensions and technical specifications as its predecessors, measuring 40 mm in diameter and 12.2 mm in thickness. As with all Wristmons, it features a notched bezel with 12 screws and a case that’s predominan...
Monochrome
First Look - The Bold, GS-Powered King Seiko VANAC Collection
You thought you knew everything from Seiko’s immensely versatile archive? Well, think again, as this new King Seiko VANAC collection is a straight blast from the past that probably few saw coming! Based on just one of many designs that were part of the original Vanac models, first up is a set of five new […]
SJX Watches
Seiko Revives the Funky, Facetted King Seiko Vanac
In the 1970s, arguably no watch brand was having more fun than Seiko, which launched the bold King Seiko Vanac collection in 1972. Five decades on, Seiko returns to the concept with the all-new King Seiko Vanac, with bold dial colours and an angular, faceted case inspired by its namesake. Despite an entirely new design – the modern-day Vanac is not a remake – the collection captures the style and spirit of the funky 1970s originals perfectly. Available in five different dial colours, each inspired by the Tokyo skyline at a different time of day, the Vanac also features a new automatic cal. 8L45, now the highest-spec movement for Seiko’s mid tier watches. Initial thoughts The past decade has treated us to more than our fair share of vintage reissues, which by and large have focused on the glorious designs of the 1950s and 1960s. But there are only so many historical designs from this era that a brand can revisit, and as we move into 2025, it’s nice to see a little variety as Seiko looks to the 1970s. And while the Vanac is very much vintage inspired, it isn’t quite a reissue of any particular historical model. Though the bracelet is integrated, the design is different enough from Gerald Genta’s designs that it avoids the common pitfall of looking like it’s trying too hard to look like something else. A selection of vintage Vanac watches The Vanac features a 41 mm case that is quite chunky at 14.3 mm. The case itself is essentially an elongated hexagon, with a ...
Monochrome
Editorial - Why Boldness Matters, Explained By Virtue Of The Flamingo Blue Tudor Black Bay Chronograph
Let me state something that I know will spark some people; as a watch-loving community, we’ve become far too negative in our opinions. Especially when it comes to social media, it’s easy to discard something you don’t like or even ridicule or bash. It’s a fairly common thing to express one’s (negative) opinion in such […]
Fratello
Introducing: A 12-Set Limited Edition Of Three Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune Watches In Remarkable Colors
There is no time to waste. The watch department at Hermès has been very busy - busy enough to release no fewer than six new watches ahead of next month’s Watches and Wonders. The novelties include a 12-set limited edition of three Hermès Arceau L’Heure de la Lune watches in surprising colors plus two new […] Visit Introducing: A 12-Set Limited Edition Of Three Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune Watches In Remarkable Colors to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - Unique, Striking Code 11.59 Grande Sonnerie Models for AP’s 150th Anniversary
As you probably know by now, Audemars Piguet is celebrating its 150th anniversary this year. Last week, the Le Brassus-based brand released an array of new watches, predominantly focused on a new, clever and technically advanced perpetual calendar movement getting rid of recessed correctors (it is far more complex than you might imagine…) But that […]
SJX Watches
Havid Nagan Comes of Age with the Classic One
Having made its debut two years ago with the Schwarz Etienne-powered HN00, Havid Nagan returns with Classic One, a chronometer-certified dress watch with a multi-layered dial. Available in two dial finishes, ebony or ivory, the Classic One takes the nascent brand in a new, more traditional direction. The Havid Nagan brand was launched on Kickstarter in 2019 by Aren Bazerkanian, who at the time was working as Director of Operations at the FP Journe boutique in Los Angeles. One of the guiding principles of Havid Nagan is an emphasis on slimness, which is an obsession that Mr Bazerkanian picked up from his time working for Mr Journe. Initial thoughts The original HN00 and subsequent HN01 were thoughtful and appealing watches, but the Classic One feels like a more mature product. In my opinion, the debut models were a bit overambitious with their proprietary strap system, which, though sleek and attractive, result in the risk of not being able to find replacement straps in the future. The Classic One, on the other hand, is more traditional in its construction, with classic lugs that can accommodate a variety of straps (the watch comes standard with straps from Jean-Rousseau). As a result of being more classical in orientation, the central feature of the Classic One is its multi-part dial with an unusual construction made up of clear sapphire sandwiched by brass discs. Finished with applied Calatrava-style hour markers, the overall effect is dynamic and attractive. In terms of...
Fratello
Hands-On With The Doxa Sub 200T Divingstar - Could This Yellow-Dial Diver Have A Place In My Collection?
Ever since Hodinkee Editor-in-Chief James Stacey posted an image on social media of a Doxa Sub 200T Divingstar, I knew I had to do a hands-on with one. Yellow is a color that keeps drawing me back. The Divingstar had already been on my radar, but seeing it time and time again wore down my […] Visit Hands-On With The Doxa Sub 200T Divingstar - Could This Yellow-Dial Diver Have A Place In My Collection? to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Unique Code 11.59 Grande Sonnerie Editions for Audemars Piguet’s 150th
The centrepiece of Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary is the ingenious perpetual calendar cal. 7138 (at least for now), but the most complicated of the commemorative editions is the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie Carillon Supersonnerie. The anniversary line-up of striking watches is comprised of five unique grande sonnerie wristwatches: three have sapphire dials that reveal the intricate strikework, while the remaining pair are fitted with iridescent opal dials. The harlequin opal dial Initial thoughts Though criticised at launch, the Code 11.59 has evolved into a varied range of watches, some of which are notably appealing (some are still pretty boring unfortunately). The grande sonnerie falls into the appealing category. The mechanics of the grande sonnerie are exceptionally complicated, and because it is a Supersonnerie equipped with AP’s patented amplification construction, the grande sonnerie is incredibly loud. The volume of the chimes are loud, but not so much that they are harsh. In short, the acoustics are impressive. The sapphire dial in sand gold case The anniversary edition grande sonnerie are individually appealing, though the opal dials are more interesting due to the novelty of the material. That said, the grande sonnerie can be customised, so a buyer is not necessarily limited to the options available for the anniversary. If I wanted to spend this much on a grande sonnerie, I’d work on my own. The pinnacle of striking watches AP is one...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Least Expensive Vacheron Constantin Watches
Vacheron Constantin is one of the oldest watch brands in the world, founded in 1755 by Jean-Marc Vacheron and François Constantin, and also one of the very few firms tracing their origins back to the 18th Century that can boast an uninterrupted history of watchmaking - a history now well into its third century. Like other brands we’ve covered previously in our "Price of Admission" series, particularly Breguet, Vacheron Constantin is inarguably an elite-level watchmaker, with a level of pricing commensurate with its historical and technical renown. Finding the entry-level pieces in the Vacheron Constantin collection - and even defining what "entry-level" means for this brand - is a challenging proposition, but here is a rundown, family by family, of the most attainable timepieces from the Genevan manufacture that are available today. OVERSEAS The Overseas collection, launched in 1996 and given a high-profile revamp and relaunch in 2016, traces its origin to an unusual and now highly collectible watch released during Vacheron Constantin’s 220th anniversary in 1977. That watch, called the 222 and recently re-released as part of Vacheron’s Historiques collection, was short-lived in its original incarnation but established many of the codes now evident in the Overseas: a six-sided bezel inspired by the maison’s Maltese cross emblem; an integrated bracelet with a similar aesthetic, and an overall bold and sport-oriented character. In its contemporary version, ...
SJX Watches
First Look: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” Openworked
Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary debuts are centred on perpetual calendars (at least for now), marking the closing of one chapter and the opening of another. The ingenious new calibre 7138 perpetual calendar marks a definitive new chapter in the brand’s history, while the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” Openworked is the swan song for a storied cal. 2120 movement that Audemars Piguet (AP) has relied on for decades. Presented in titanium with a polished BMG bezel, the final edition perpetual calendar is inspired by the Royal Oak pocket watch ref. 25729. This pocket watch lends its sapphire-and-blue aesthetic to the anniversary perpetual calendar, although the pocket watch was ironically powered by a manual wind calibre (as pocket watches tend to be). The ref. 25729PT was a 20-piece limited edition with a matching platinum chain, made in 1992 for the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak Initial thoughts The anniversary edition marks the end of the cal. 5134/5135 (and the preceding cal. 2120/2800), the long-lived perpetual calendar movement that AP launched in 1978. While great in its time, the movement was dated and somewhat low-tech by modern standards. The retirement of the movement is well deserved, and it is certainly going out in style. At a distance the anniversary perpetual calendar is familiar, but up close it reveals details that make it a little bit more interesting than its peers. These include the blue ringed-sapphire dial, retro signatu...
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin’s 270th Anniversary Exhibition: First Stop Abu Dhabi
The oldest continuously operating watchmaker, Vacheron Constantin marks its 270th anniversary in 2025. In honour of this milestone, the brand has inaugurated The Quest: 270 Years of Seeking Excellence, an exhibition dedicated to its history and timepieces. Divided into four chapters, the exhibition includes archival materials and exceptional timepieces, illustrating the brand’s impressive heritage and knowhow. Now on show in Abu Dhabi until April 15, The Quest will make its way to other countries around the world over the course of the year. The exhibition’s first section, “Beginning”, delves into the brand’s early years with rarely seen historical documents and objects. Notable milestones include the invention of the pantograph, which standardised watch components by improving tolerances, and the Kallista, a 1970s watches made from a one-kilogram gold ingot and adorned with 118 diamonds, and reputedly the most expensive watch in the world at the time. The second chapter, “Artistic Crafts and Finishing,” highlights the brand’s watchmaking and craftsmanship, including engraving, enamelling, gem-setting, and guillochage. The “High Watchmaking” chapter invites visitors to explore the intricate craftsmanship behind the brand’s most complex movements with displays that magnify the tiny components of a movement. Most notably is a set of six sliding glass panels showcasing the 2,877 individual parts and 63 complications of the most complex watch ever, the Be...