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Highlights: Complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nov 22, 2022

Highlights: Complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction

Having covered highlights from the independent watchmakers at Phillips’ The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV, we now dive into the complicated timepieces in the sale that takes place on November 28 and 29 – an appropriate theme given that the three most valuable lots according to the estimates are complicated watches from Patek Philippe. In this roundup, we look at nine lots that stand out. Some like the ref. 5207P with the uncommon mahogany guilloche dial are six-figure, headline lots, while others are value propositions that might slip under the radar but worth noting, like the Cartier Privé Tonneau XL Skeleton Dual Time. Registration for bidding and the entire catalogue for sale can be accessed here. The ref. 5207P with a brown guilloche dial and matching obsidian inlays in the case and slide Lot 817: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone “Buenos Aires” Here, we have the Lange 1 Time Zone that was first introduced in 2005. With the trademark Lange 1 dial layout and oversized date, the Time Zone maintains the recognisable Lange 1 style with its “Golden Proportions” despite being able to do much more than a standard Lange 1. This particular variant came about when Buenos Aires retailer Simonetta Orsini requested a limited edition for Argentina. The cities disc thus has Buenos Aires (“B. AIRES”) to indicate UTC-03:00, instead of Rio de Janeiro as is the norm for the model. But more significant for the Lange enthusiast is the silver dial with blue hands and ma...

HANDS-ON: The HYT Moon Runner Supernova Red Magma and White Neon Time+Tide
HYT Nov 20, 2022

HANDS-ON: The HYT Moon Runner Supernova Red Magma and White Neon

While other manufactures rely on hands or discs to convey information, HYT developed a means of utilising fluid to show the time – carving out their own unique lane within the watch design landscape. No easy feat. Being so distinct, however, can be polarising, but the brand is now under the helm of CEO and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The HYT Moon Runner Supernova Red Magma and White Neon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Platinum status: The psychological reason why we think heavy watches are more valuable Time+Tide
Nov 19, 2022

Platinum status: The psychological reason why we think heavy watches are more valuable

Platinum is the acceptable form of heavy metal. The reason for this isn’t just down to the lack of spandex trousers and apocalyptic imagery. It’s simply hard not to be seduced by a platinum watch. Here is the ultimate stealth-wealth material that visually offers the discretion of stainless-steel. And yet pick up a watch like … ContinuedThe post Platinum status: The psychological reason why we think heavy watches are more valuable appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why the Cartier collection of Tyler, The Creator matters Time+Tide
Patek Philippe s dearer than your Nov 18, 2022

Why the Cartier collection of Tyler, The Creator matters

It’ll be no surprise to you to hear that another rapper has been on record showing off their watch collection. Tyler, The Creator, however, is no ordinary rapper. His collection doesn’t include iced-out Rolexes and Patek Philippes dearer than your first-born, no. The Californian’s tastes lie in a brand that’s seen an incredible resurgence in … ContinuedThe post Why the Cartier collection of Tyler, The Creator matters appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 1463 “Tasti Tondi” Nov 18, 2022

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong Auction

With the curtain having just come down on the Geneva sale season, auction houses are migrating to Hong Kong for the second half of the autumn auctions. Going on the block at Phillips’ The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV are 270 lots that encompass heavy-hitters and “hype” watches, but as usual we’ll take a look instead at a few interesting watches, starting with a selection of independent watchmaking. We round up nine notable creations from the independents, mainly time-only watches with high-quality construction and unique design, such as a Voutilainen Vingt-8 with a skeletonised dial and the Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down. The auction takes place on November 28 (lots 801-938) and November 29 (lots 939-1070). The full catalogue and sale registration can be accessed on Phillips.com. Lot 829: Roger Dubuis Hommage H37 A modern-day chronometer heavily inspired by traditional watchmaker – the aesthetics are a practically a revival of styling from the good old days – the Hommage H37 is an easy watch to like. Living up to its name, the Hommage pays tribute to classical gentlemen’s watches. It’s a three-hander in a classically-sized 37 mm case that contains a Lemania-based self-winding movement certified as a chronometer by the Besançon Observatory. The Hommage case was modelled on the Patek Philippe ref. 1463 “Tasti Tondi” chrongraph, though the resemblance is less obvious on the time-only model. But the simple lines are undeniably appealing despite their sim...

£80k Omega spends 20 years in a drawer until this recent episode of Antiques Roadshow Time+Tide
Omega spends 20 years Nov 16, 2022

£80k Omega spends 20 years in a drawer until this recent episode of Antiques Roadshow

As watch collectors we all wish to one day stumble on a “barnyard” find. An old watch that’s dug up and sold at an estate sale by an owner who has no idea what it is actually worth. We hear the stories, and they always seem too good to be true. But they definitely happen and, … ContinuedThe post £80k Omega spends 20 years in a drawer until this recent episode of Antiques Roadshow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sarpaneva Introduces the Valtteri Bottas “Kilpisjärvi” SJX Watches
Sarpaneva Nov 16, 2022

Sarpaneva Introduces the Valtteri Bottas “Kilpisjärvi”

Inspired by the northern lights, the Sarpaneva x Valtteri Bottas “Kilpisjärvi” continues the Finnish’s brands tradition of artfully applied Super-Luminova. This 17-piece limited edition Stepan Sarpaneva’s third model dedicated to Valteri Bottas, a fellow Finn who competes for the Alfa Romeo Formula 1 team. Unlike the first pair of Bottas editions that made by Mr Sarpaneva’s more affordable S.U.F. brand, the Kilpisjärvi is a full-fledged Sarpaneva watch so it has an elaborately open-worked dial, unusually shaped case, and in a first for the brand, the Chronode P1003 automatic movement inside. Initial thoughts Born into a family of designers and artists, Stepan Sarpenava unsurprisingly has a strikingly distinct aesthetic. This comes through in all of his work, despite the diversity of his offerings. With its open-worked dial and multi-coloured lume, the Kilpisjärvi might seem similar to his recent releases, but it is notably different. In contrast to the earlier editions that were heavily figurative, the Kilpisjärvi is abstract, especially during the day. In fact, the dial pattern is almost graceful, though the aggressive Sarpaneva styling is still obvious in the hands and case. Only at night when the Super-Luminova glows is the northern lights motif easily apparent. For anyone who enjoys Mr Sarpaneva’s unusual aesthetic, the Kilpisjärvi is easily appealing – with two caveats. One is the size, which at 46 mm is large and places it amongst the biggest Sarp...

HANDS-ON: The Mido Ocean Star GMT Special Edition is a sporty refresh of the best value Swiss GMT around Time+Tide
Mido Nov 16, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Mido Ocean Star GMT Special Edition is a sporty refresh of the best value Swiss GMT around

Special edition watches can celebrate anniversaries, achievements or celebrity tie-ins, but sometimes a special edition can just exist because the watch is special. Mido’s latest reference of the Ocean Star GMT applies the classic Pepsi colour scheme to their flagship travelling diver, injecting it with even more of a sporting attitude than it already had. … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Mido Ocean Star GMT Special Edition is a sporty refresh of the best value Swiss GMT around appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The IWC Portugieser Automatic IW500715 is handsome and powerful Time+Tide
IWC Portugieser Automatic IW500715 Nov 15, 2022

HANDS-ON: The IWC Portugieser Automatic IW500715 is handsome and powerful

I recently tackled the new IWC Portugieser Chronograph IW371620, a solid summer watch that brings the youthful summer vibes to a classic and storied collection and manufacture. But a chronograph is not always everyone’s flavour. Unless you are dead-set on using a mechanical and analogue timekeeper for timing cars on the racetrack, or more realistically … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The IWC Portugieser Automatic IW500715 is handsome and powerful appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet raise $1.1m for charity with the Royal Oak “One Drop” Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet raise $1.1m Nov 14, 2022

Audemars Piguet raise $1.1m for charity with the Royal Oak “One Drop”

Charity auctions can often be some of the watch world’s most exciting events, as brands stretch their creativity for one-off watches that are instantly collectible. Audemars Piguet certainly delivered at the La Cuvée One Drop 2022 event with their Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph “One Drop” raising US$1.1m. Hosted in Las Vegas, the proceeds go towards … ContinuedThe post Audemars Piguet raise $1.1m for charity with the Royal Oak “One Drop” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

De Bethune Introduces Custom Regulation with the Sensoriel SJX Watches
De Bethune Introduces Custom Regulation Nov 14, 2022

De Bethune Introduces Custom Regulation with the Sensoriel

De Bethune’s latest invention aims to customise the regulation of a mechanical watch to suit the individual owner. Dubbed the Sensoriel Chronometry Project, it takes the form of a electronic wrist instrument that measures the wearer’s activities and environmental conditions over a two week period – gathering two million data points per hour according to the brand. With this voluminous quantity of data, De Bethune will then regulate a DB28GS Grand Bleu sports watch specifically for the particular owner, optimising timekeeping based on the wearer’s activities. [Updated to include response from Denis Flageollet.] Initial thoughts On paper the Sensoriel is interesting and impressive, but on reflection it raises several questions. For one, the two million data points recorded per hour – for a two-week period – results in an extraordinary amount of information on the wearer’s activities. Can any mechanical watch be regulated to a fine enough resolution that makes even a fraction of that data useful? My knowledge of watchmaking is certainly inexpert but I am sceptical. Mr Flageollet points out De Bethune utilises an algorithm to process the data and sieve out the “elements specific to the wearer, in a way to bring out a specific chronometric DNA for each wearer”, allowing the watch to be regulated according to a smaller number of data points. The second salient point is more philosophical. Historically the pursuit of chronometry meant good timekeeping regardless...

Grail Watches: The Holy Trinity (Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, And Vacheron Constantin) – And What Is A ‘Grail’ Anyway? – Reprise Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin Nov 12, 2022

Grail Watches: The Holy Trinity (Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, And Vacheron Constantin) – And What Is A ‘Grail’ Anyway? – Reprise

“The Holy Trinity,” as any watch nerd knows, refers to the triumvirate of Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin. Colin Smith takes a look at what we mean – or think we mean - when we describe PP, AP, and VC as the “Holy Trinity” of watchmaking and when we describe a timepiece as our “grail watch.”

INTRODUCING: The Speake-Marin x Watches of Switzerland One & Two Dual Time Time+Tide
Speake-Marin Nov 11, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Speake-Marin x Watches of Switzerland One & Two Dual Time

When you think of a GMT watch with a blue dial, your mind probably goes to one of many sports watch classics. Having almost nothing in common with those is the new Speake-Marin collaboration with Watches of Switzerland - the One & Two Dual Time Limited Editions. Produced to pay tribute to the London origins … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Speake-Marin x Watches of Switzerland One & Two Dual Time appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Ventura L 14K Gold Limited Edition Time+Tide
Hamilton Ventura L 14K Gold Nov 10, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Ventura L 14K Gold Limited Edition

If we’re being honest, most watch brands wouldn’t get away with releasing a watch like the Ventura today. It’s unashamedly weird, full of retro-futuristic quirks that wouldn’t look out of place on the wrist of George Jetson, and most of the references carry a taboo quartz movement. But Hamilton are not most brands. Although the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Ventura L 14K Gold Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.