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Review: the new A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph
The Lange Odysseus luxury sports watch collection gets a complication. Here is our detailed review of the new A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph.
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SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces the Voyager Skeleton
Louis Vuitton has been steadily growing its presence in the realm of serious watchmaking, an endeavour that began with its purchase of movement specialist La Fabrique de Temps (LFT) a decade ago. While its recent launches have been extravagant in typical Louis Vuitton style – ranging from a gothic automaton to the casino-inspired jump hours – the brand’s latest is contemporary and low key. Enter the Voyager Skeleton, an open-worked timepiece that incorporates Louis Vuitton’s design language in an unexpectedly minimalist design. Initial thoughts While Louis Vuitton’s top-of-the-line complications are certainly showstoppers, its simpler, regular production watches have historically been a mixed bag. But with a clear change in direction at its watch division, changes seem to be afoot, beginning with the Voyager Skeleton. Granted, it is hardly an affordable watch at over US$50,000, but it is a good looking time-only watch. The highlight is the styling of the open-worked LV60 movement that is both striking and restrained. The bridges possesses a distinctive, geometric style that is decidedly architectural. Although the automatic-winding bridge clearly forms a large “LV”, the branding is surprisingly discreet. In fact, the face of the watch has no overt branding, save for the open-worked barrel. Overall, the execution of the movement is appealing and lives up to expectations, save for one detail – the Etachron regulator looks out of place considering the ...
Worn & Wound
A Week In Watches Ep. 44: The New Releases You (Probably) Missed
Welcome to episode 44 of A Week In Watches, a week where we recover from the hustle bustle of Watches & Wonders, and ponder some of the releases that may have slipped through the cracks. We talk about a new world timer watch from Ming, a few new watches from Frederique Constant, more hits from Chopard, and even a new LM Perpetual variant in steel from MB&F; (more from the M.A.D. House coming soon!). Stay tuned as we get our hands on many of these new release for more in-depth reviews. We also caught wind of a new batch of cities selected to sell the MoonSwatch Mission to Moonshine, for one day only this past week. What will this mean for future availability? Do we want more of these special edition MoonSwatches? Let us know in the comments or head over to YouTube to join the discussion. In total this may have been a somewhat low key year for Watches & Wonders, but there was still plenty to explore and discover, even on the fringes and outside of the show itself. We’ve got an inside look at a few other shows taking place in Geneva last week, so keep an eye out for more from the likes of Sinn, DeBethune, F.P. Journe, Doxa, and others. Let us know what releases caught your eye and what you’d like to see reviewed here at Worn & Wound. This week’s episode is brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. The post A Week In Watches Ep. 44: The New Releases You (Probably) Missed appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
Highlights From The Shop: The Citizen Promaster Dive Automatic “Fugu”
Welcome to Highlights From The Shop. In this new series, we’re going to focus on watches in the Windup Shop that we feel deserve more attention. Whether it’s due to a constantly changing news cycle or hundreds of watches being released throughout the year, these watches had a short lifespan at the top of your feed. Whatever the cause, this is our chance to revisit some great watches you may have missed. Welcome to Highlights From The Shop. In this new series, we’re going to focus on watches in the Windup Shop that we feel deserve more attention. Whether it’s due to a constantly changing news cycle or hundreds of watches being released throughout the year, these watches had a short lifespan at the top of your feed. Whatever the cause, this is our chance to revisit some great watches you may have missed. The post Highlights From The Shop: The Citizen Promaster Dive Automatic “Fugu” appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Thierry Stern has no plans to sell Patek Philippe and is set to introduce the first new collection since 1999
When you have the most sought-after watch in the world, it takes humongous cojones to kill it off. While some would say it is insanity, Patek Philippe CEO Thierry Stern, who elected to discontinue the coveted 5711 Nautilus in steel, would probably argue it is discipline. A calculated effort that respects the trust and loyalty … ContinuedThe post Thierry Stern has no plans to sell Patek Philippe and is set to introduce the first new collection since 1999 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The Quest For My Ultimate Fountain Pen Part 1: The All-Over-The-Place Period – Reprise
Martin Green's quest for the ultimate fountain pen began unexpectedly, and over the following decades he learned many things, including nothing compares to writing with a gold nib! Join Martin as he embarks upon part one of his personal fountain pen journey, which includes an inherited piece, a demonstrator, over-the-top colors, and cloisonné enamel.
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: The Watches of Hit HBO Series ‘Succession’, Two More Paul Newman Daytonas Discovered, The A-Tech Multi-Tool Keychain, & More
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Esquire Talking Watches With Succession’s Prop Master Monica Jacobs Via Esquire In one of the most recent Succession episodes, hearing Kendall Roy describe their new media-venture called The Hundred as, “Substack meets Masterclass meets the Economist meets the New Yorker.” remains as one of the many chuckle-worthy lines we’ve heard during this season thus far. Almost every character is capable of delivering such a line, especially Roman Roy, Tom Wambsgans and Greg Hirsch. Especially Greg. But in addition to the witty writing and awesome plot, as watch enthusiasts, it’s hard not to pay attention to what’s on the wrists of our favorite characters. Via Esquire In a recent Esquire interview, Prop Master Monica Jacobs spills all the details as to how some of these very particular, highly-specific watches made their way onto the show. The interview also digs into how each watch is chosen and how the character’s personality is reflected upon the watch they wear. For example, why does Roman Roy wear Rolex all the time, and what’s with Logan Roy sticking wi...
Quill & Pad
Watches & Wonders 2023 Round Table: What We Liked and Didn’t Like at the World’s Biggest Watch Fair
Watches and Wonders 2023 ran from Monday, March 27 to Saturday, April 1 at Palexpo in Geneva and was open to the public on the 1st and 2nd of April. It attracted a record 43,000 visitors! That’s nearly double last year’s 22,000 visitors, largely thanks to the opening up of China and Asian countries after the COVID-19 pandemic. The Quill & Pad team was there, and we sat down after the show to discuss what we liked and didn’t like about the 2023 fair.
Hodinkee
Photo Report: In Times Square For The Launch Of The New Moonshine MoonSwatch - Turns Out It’s Been (Slightly) Updated
MoonSwatch took Manhattan with a new differentiating detail, and we were on the scene to see it.
Quill & Pad
Zenith Chronomaster A384 Revival Lupin The Third Final Edition: Feeling The Split – Reprise
A special edition of the Zenith Chronomaster Revival based on anime character Lupin the Third has recently launched, the Chronomaster Revival Lupin The Third Final Edition. It is the last of the three editions since 2019 and in Joshua Munchow's opinion it is the most striking one yet.
Worn & Wound
The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Stephen Nichols
Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Stephen Nichols shares not three, but four watches, and somehow still manages to stay under budget. This collection is a testament to micro-brands bringing something a little different to the table, and highlights just how far you can stretch your budget on some truly awesome watches. Stephen was even kind enough to provide his own photography of the watches, so all credit to @talkingabouttime for the imagery within. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here. The old adage, “anything worth doing is worth overdoing,” is as true to watch collecting as it is to anything else. Thankfully, you don’t have to skimp on quality and design for a three-watch collection even when you’re on a budget. Micro-brands are offering up more than just great value, they’re giving us a personalized experience on top of it. Go to a watch fair or slide into a brand’s DMs, and chances are good you’ll be greeted by a dreamer who’s just itching to show you what they’ve made and why they made it. You can score an incredible watch that matches your style and also tells a personal story about the designer. Here’s a list of three, ok maybe four watches that deliver huge value for under $5,000. Watches that I’d be proud to add to my personal collection. Typsim – 200M – $1,199 How do you capture the charm of a vintage diver in a modern packag...
Hodinkee
Photo Report: From Suits To Streetwear, The Style Of Watches & Wonders
Of course the watch spotting was solid but there were also some great fits on display during this year's big trade show.
Worn & Wound
Panerai Introduces their First Annual Calendar as Part of the Radiomir Collection
Among the new releases from Panerai at this year’s Watches & Wonders, we find what amounts to a first from the brand: a pair of annual calendars. While Panerai has dabbled in perpetual calendars, the annual calendar compilation is a new venture. This has always felt like an under-appreciated complication to me in an environment where perpetual calendars tend to get all the plaudits. For the relatively minor inconvenience of having to make a manual adjustment to the calendar on the first day of March, you get a calendar complication that’s very nearly “set it and forget it” at what often amounts to a significant discount over comparable perpetuals. While these new Panerais aren’t exactly rubbing up against the value end of the spectrum (they are both well into the five figures, with cases in precious metals), they do represent something genuinely new in the Panerai catalog, which is always going to be of interest to the brand’s dedicated base of collectors. The new annual calendars are both found in the Radiomir collection, which is Panerai’s sleeker case design (compared to the Luminor) with vintage style wire lugs and a squared off cushion case shape. Gold and platinum options are available (Panerai refers to their alloys as “Goldtech” and “Platinumtech”) and the cases measure 45mm in diameter. Panerai enthusiasts and collectors will tell you that a 45mm Radiomir case wears quite a bit smaller than the numbers would indicate, because thanks to the ...
Worn & Wound
In Discussion: We Chat With Chris Grainger Inside the IWC Booth at Watches & Wonders
One of the most talked about releases this year came courtesy of IWC in the form of a new Ingenieur that takes the watch back to its Gerald Genta design era of history. You can see our hands-on impressions of that watch right here. The new watches take clear inspiration from the 1970s footprint, but offer a quite contemporary execution that won’t be mistaken for anything throwback. But that’s not all people were discussing at their year’s Watches & Wonders, the IWC booth made one of the biggest impressions of the whole fair, setting a funky ‘70s engineering aesthetic against the new watches, which even included a Mercedes C-111 mkIII concept car right in the booth. During our visit to the booth, we ran into IWC CEO (and Worn & Wound Podcast alum) Chris Grainger, who gave us the scoop on the new watches and the booth itself. This watch was a long time coming, as you might imagine, and Chris takes us through some of the development of the design we see today. Oh, and those crown guards? It seems that we’re the only ones that spent any real time stressing about them. See more of our coverage of Watches & Wonders 2023 right here, and head over to our YouTube channel for more of our video content. The post In Discussion: We Chat With Chris Grainger Inside the IWC Booth at Watches & Wonders appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Deployant
TGIFriday: Review of the new Sony A7RV
We take a look at a camera which was loaned to us for two weeks - the new Sony A7RV with two lenses - a 90mnm macro and a general purpose zoom.
Quill & Pad
T-Rex Dinosaur Plus Urwerk UR-105 Unique Piece Trinity at the ‘Out of this World’ Auction: Featuring the First Complete Tyrannosaurus Rex Skeleton Auctioned in Europe
The Trinity Tyrannosaurus Rex skeleton is the first to be auctioned in Europe. And Urwerk have created the unique piece UR-105 Trinity especially for the 'Out of this World' auction in Zurich.
SJX Watches
SJX W&W; Highlights – Value Propositions and The Not-Quite
Maybe unsurprising given the state of the industry – watchmakers enjoyed record sales in 2022 – value buys were few at Watches & Wonders (W&W;) this year. Amongst the independent watchmakers, just two stood out for being value buys, the Kudoke 3 and Urwerk UR-102 “Reloaded” – both of which I covered in my highlights amongst the indies. Not quite an independent watchmaker but niche nonetheless, Louis Erard stands out for the Excellence Marqueterie. Probably the best value amongst its many limited editions, the Excellence Marqueterie brings the art of wood marquetry to a previously unheard of price segment. Although it costs only about US$4,000, the Excellence Marqueterie features a dial decorated with tiny pieces of exotic wood that have been sawn and applied by hand to form an M.C. Escher-like pattern. The Excellence Marqueterie. Image – Louis Erard Like most other niche brands, Louis Erard exhibited outside the halls of W&W;, where all of the establishment brands were located. Amongst the big names, only Tudor offered substantial value with its new models, although that is not news in itself since value is a fundamental characteristic of the brand. (Though it is arguable that Rolex offers strong value in all its models regardless of price, but certainly not as much as Tudor.) Two watches stood out amongst Tudor’s 2023 line-up. One is the Black Bay 54, a watch clearly conceived by aficionados with an eye for detail. Just 37 mm in diameter, it resembles a vinta...
SJX Watches
SJX W&W; Highlights – The Unexpected and the Well-Executed
Because it was the world’s biggest watch brands showing off their latest products at Watches & Wonders (W&W;), surprises seemed unlikely. Yet there were a few surprises at the fair, with several coming from the most conservative brand of all, Rolex, which debuted the now infamous “Bubbles” and “Puzzle”. But the unexpected aside, the fair also saw a number of well-executed new models that were just right, most notably from Cartier, which stuck to what it does well. The Tank Normale in yellow gold with a matching bracelet Surprises A surprise launch, but certainly not unexpected as a highlight, is the Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time ref. 5224R. Although it appears to be a typical Calatrava at a distance, the ref. 5224R is elegantly different. For one, it is surprisingly large for a Calatrava at 42 mm but typically thin at under 9 mm. The ref. 5224R More unusual is the 24-hour display that is a convenient and smart method of showing two time zones without the need for a day and night indicator. But as is often the case with Patek Philippe, the novelty of the watch was not invented. Its key features, namely the time display and case size, are rooted in history – the watch is modelled on the oversized Chronometro Gondolo pocket watches of the early 20th century. But at over US$57,000, the ref. 5224R is unusually expensive for a two-time zone watch, though that is explained in part by the high-end movement inside that’s shared with the top-of-t...
Revolution
Talking with Niels Eggerding About the Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic FP(S)
Wei visits Frederique Constant’s manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates, Geneva to speak to Managing Director of the brand, Niels Eggerding, about the limited edition collaboration that is probably the most revolutionary that we have ever done. The Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic Future Past (Salmon) celebrates watchmaking’s past with a form factor reminiscent of 1940s chronometers […]
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Rose Gold Grand Seiko ‘Hana-ikada’
An elegant take on the fan-favorite 'Shunbun,' this new limited edition pairs a pink gold case with the familiar pale pink dial.
Worn & Wound
The Rolex Explorer Welcomes New 40mm Case
Just a few short years ago, Rolex surprised all of us by returning the Explorer to its 36mm roots, after a relatively short stint at 39mm. I discuss that move and the watch itself at length in this review of the ever charming 124270. While many lamented the change, there is certainly no shortage of larger sport watches across the Rolex catalog to choose from. This year, Rolex again returns to the Explorer, adding an entirely new size option to live alongside the 36mm case, offering something for everyone with a new Explorer 40 reference 224270. They’ve managed to fix some of the odd proportion issues that plagued the old 39mm 214270 in the process. The new Rolex Explorer 40 at left, existing 36 at right. The Explorer 40 was was one of many new releases from Rolex this year, and largely fell into quiet territory alongside blockbusters like a new Daytona, a titanium Yacht-Master, an entirely new formal range called Perpetual 1908, and a pair of unusually colorful watches in the OP and Day-Date range. But, for fans of the Explorer missing a larger option, this was a momentous release worth celebrating. This simple, perhaps iconic even, Rolex dial is now more accessible to more wrists than ever, and more options are always a good thing in my book. The Explorer 40 is exactly what it sounds like, a slightly scaled up Explorer with the same dial and case design as the 36. Most importantly, the scale and proportions of the 3, 6, and 9 Arabic numerals, as well as the block hour...
Worn & Wound
A Picture of Good Stealth: Luminox Unveils the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic
When it comes to military watches, my mind draws a bold red line between two distinct types. First, there’s the batch that originates from the vintage kin. You know, the Dirty Dozen field watch, the stoic flieger, and of course the quintessential stainless steel diver. Then there’s the modern and robust digital watch equipped with the innovative case material and a slew of multi-functions that you’d need more than two hands to count. But the happy medium between the two has always been within Luminox, a brand that has fostered and maintained a partnership with the U.S. Navy SEALs for three decades and counting. The latest addition to the Navy SEAL Luminox collection blends together a new case material and their patented Luminox Light Technology, while still keeping the spirit of analog time – it’s called the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic inspired by the Frogmen’s grind, grit, and durability. The Master Carbon SEAL Automatic utilizes a lightweight and rugged case made out of CARBONOX+. This forward-looking material boasts ultra-strong and weatherproof properties that in weight, equates to three times lighter than titanium. The unique feature that comes along with the “+” in the CARBONOX+ name is its stealthy gray tint which also displays the fingerprint-esque carbon fiber pattern that is individual to each watch. Except with the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic, the carbon fiber execution is much more subtle, displaying less of the white swirls we’ve seen in ot...
Revolution
The Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic FP(S) Showcases Watchmaking’s Past & Future
Wei and Jeremiah take a closer look at Revolution’s latest collaboration with Frederique Constant, a brand whose mission is to bring luxury to a wider audience. In 2021, Frederique Constant introduced the Slimline Monolithic, a watch that replaced all 26 components of the oscillator and escapement, instead employing a single silicon disc as the regulating […]
Deployant
Chief Editor’s Choice of the most impressive 3 watches of the W&W; 2023 season
And to round up this year's picks, the Chief Editor makes his top 3 picks from this year's show. Picks from Lange, JLC and Grand Seiko.
Worn & Wound
The New Ming 29.01 Worldtimer Starts Another New Chapter
Ming is back with a follow up to their 19.02 Worldtimer, released four years ago. That watch was something of a game-changer for Ming, adding a new complication to the brand’s repertoire, and served as an expansion of their design language. For the new 29.01 Worldtimer, Ming is once again taking a rather large step forward as the brand continues to refine their aesthetic and reimagine what a Ming can be. The concept of the new 29 series, according to Ming, is liquidity. The designs of watches in this new chapter, starting with the Worldtimer, will be defined by smooth, flowing lines, and an organic appearance. That, you might be thinking, kind of describes just about every Ming ever made. But on the 29.01 the brand has taken steps to make the watch appear seamless, as if it’s all of a single piece. The case does not have a bezel, for example, but the crystal is designed to merge directly into the case itself. The dial is quite complex and appears to be made of two pieces: a main sapphire dial and a 24 hour metallic dial with a gradient effect. Both are heavily lumed, the sapphire portion with HyCeram ceramic Super-LumiNova X1 lume, but they have been executed in such a way as to appear to be merged together. The use of sapphire in the dial itself, the large box crystal, and in the handset contributes to a sense that all of the dial components are floating across different levels, according to the brand. It’s honestly tough to make sense of in the photos, but we ima...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Ming 29.01 Worldtimer
The first watch of Ming's new 29 series introduces an evolution of Ming's 19.02 Worldtimer
Worn & Wound
Brew’s Latest Metric, in PVD Black, is Inspired by 1980s Car Culture and the Sportiest Metric Yet
Brew’s Metric chronograph has become one of the biggest watch hits in the microbrand space since its introduction just a few years ago. The cycle of restock to sellout has been basically uninterrupted since the Metric made its debut in the summer of 2021, and the line recently saw an expansion with a gold plated version that rewired our expectations of what this watch can be. Now, just a few months out from that gold Metric, Brew has dropped a version in black PVD directly inspired by brand founder Jonathan Ferrer’s love of car culture. All of the Metrics have a solidly vintage infused vibe, but this one is squarely placed in the 80s, and anyone who has spent any amount of time thinking about cars from that decade will immediately understand the connections Brew is making in the design of this watch. The design is overtly sporty, with bright red accents inspired by instrument clusters on 1980s 911s contrasting sharply with the matte black dial and case. The blasted steel pushers and crown dramatically set off the case, and give the watch a tool-like sensibility. But it’s the sleekness of the black coating on the case and bracelet that does the heavy lifting in connecting this watch to 80s sports cars. Something that we’ve always appreciated about the Metric is its fidelity to a style of sports watch that became popular in the 1970s, watches with shaped cases in sizes that by today’s standards would be considered a bit undersized, but in their day would have j...
Worn & Wound
Watches and Wonders Affordable Titanium Alternatives From The Shop
That’s a wrap. Watches and wonders is now behind us and one of the biggest takeaways from the fair was a continued emphasis on titanium. From IWC’s premium Ingenieur to Rolex and their new Yacht-Master. Even Zenith joined in with their new Defy Revival Shadow. Clearly, the larger brands are going to continue exploring their use of this light and strong material. That’s a wrap. Watches and wonders is now behind us and one of the biggest takeaways from the fair was a continued emphasis on titanium. From IWC’s premium Ingenieur to Rolex and their new Yacht-Master. Even Zenith joined in with their new Defy Revival Shadow. Clearly, the larger brands are going to continue exploring their use of this light and strong material. The post Watches and Wonders Affordable Titanium Alternatives From The Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
Editorial: Happenings Around the Halls of Watches & Wonders
With the demise of Baselworld shortly before the pandemic and the evolution of SIHH into Watches & Wonders (W&W;), the Geneva fair is now the most important watch event on the planet. Having just closed, W&W; recorded massive visitor numbers and unexpectedly buoyant sentiment amongst industry executives. Despite the implosion of Credit Suisse the week before and assorted troubles around the world, sentiment at the fair amongst industry insiders was robust, catching most by surprise. Brands executives indicated orders from retailers were good as was interest from clients, and expressed optimism for the coming year. Pessimism was hard to find, although a handful of well-placed individuals high up in important brands quietly pondered what things would look like in six months – the health of components suppliers to the industry will provide a clue. The irony is that brands run by such thoughtful individuals are usually the best placed to weather any downturn. Rolex chief executive Jean-Frederic Dufour (left), who is also the chairman of the W&W; foundation Everyone wants a look To anyone who was at Watches & Wonders (W&W;), the most tangible fact was the enormous and occasionally unmanageable crowd. According to its organisers, visitors numbered 43,000, compared to just 22,000 last year. Unsurprisingly, the celebratory mood of the organisers was clear in the closing announcement for the event. However, the preparations for the jump in visitors were clearly insufficient because ...
Time+Tide
The Hublot MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Retrograde is a bi-retrograde, bi-axis tourbillon spec monster
The Hublot MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Retrograde is Hublot’s latest addition to the Masterpiece collection. It features a bi-retrograde dial, as well as a bi-axis tourbillon for ultimate complexity. Despite many power-draining complications, the HUB6200 offers a 4-day power reserve. There will always be people seeking to discredit Hublot as serious watchmakers, however projects such as … ContinuedThe post The Hublot MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Retrograde is a bi-retrograde, bi-axis tourbillon spec monster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.