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Hands On: Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual “Rose Gilt” Ref. 5236P-010 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual “Rose Gilt” Sep 9, 2024

Hands On: Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual “Rose Gilt” Ref. 5236P-010

Launched earlier this year as the second variant of the “linear” perpetual, following the original with a dark blue dial, the Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5236P-010 has a “rose-gilt opaline” dial – and was recently trending on social media for having been spotted on Facebook cofounder Mark Zuckerberg’s wrist. The symmetrical dial retains the signature calendar display in a single line under 12 o’clock, with hands and markers in black-coated white gold. It’s a cosmetic variation of the original in a currently fashionable colour, but the “salmon” dial arguably works best with the clean styling of the ref. 5236P, which is Patek Philippe’s most sophisticated perpetual calendar. Initial thoughts Officially “rose-gilt opaline”, the pink tone is often known as “salmon” and it’s probably the most fashionable colour now. While not too long ago Patek Philippe had no “salmon” dials in the regular production line up, today’s catalogue includes four. Even though the colour is in theory identical across the four current models with “rose-gilt opaline” dials, the effect varies depending on the dial finish; the ref. 5935A with guilloche dial is the most different. Of the four, the design of the ref. 5236P is the ideal complement to the “salmon” colour, even compared to the ref. 5320G-011 Perpetual Calendar that has a similar dial layout. The ref. 5320G-011. Image – Patek Philippe The pink finish is a strong colour that stan...

Grand Seiko Recreates 45GS with Calibre 9SA4 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Recreates 45GS Sep 9, 2024

Grand Seiko Recreates 45GS with Calibre 9SA4

Having unveiled the top-of-the-line 9SA4 movement earlier this year, Grand Seiko has now installed the new calibre in a pair of vintage remakes, the Heritage Collection 45GS Re-creation SLGW004 and SLGW005. A limited edition in either steel or 18k yellow gold, the 45GS Re-creation is one of Grand Seiko’s few vintage reissues with its latest-generation calibre that boasts a high-frequency balance and Grand Seiko’s proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement. Initial thoughts This is Grand Seiko’s first remake of the 45GS, but if the new pair look familiar, that’s because Grand Seiko launched a 44GS remake in 2013. Though the 44GS and 45GS are different models launched just a year apart in the late 1960s, they were different models. The 45GS was an upgrade over the 44GS in terms of the movement, though it retained similar styling. In the same manner, the modern-day remakes are most notable for having different movements. Amongst Grand Seiko’s many remakes, the 45GS stands out for the 9SA4 inside. It’s a large, slim, and sophisticated calibre that’s a substantial improvement over the manual-wind movements found in past remakes. Because of the movement, the 45GS remakes are amongst the more expensive manual-wind Grand Seiko models at US$9,700 in stainless steel and US$30,000 in yellow gold. Moreover, the two priced comparably to the SLGW002 and SLGW003, which are modern designs but powered by the same calibre. While not as affordable as other Grand Seiko models, the 45G...

The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Collection - Watches For Enthusiasts With Refined Taste Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Collection - Watches Sep 8, 2024

The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Collection - Watches For Enthusiasts With Refined Taste

One of my most memorable meetings during Watches and Wonders earlier this year was with Parmigiani Fleurier CEO Guido Terreni. This very charismatic watch CEO was impeccably dressed, talking about the history of fashion and how the new Toric collection was designed with today’s sartorialists in mind. Terreni is glad that menswear is getting attention […] Visit The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Collection - Watches For Enthusiasts With Refined Taste to read the full article.

Omaha, 88, Hut Hut! The Breitling Chronomat NFL Collection Scores Big! Fratello
Breitling Chronomat NFL Collection Scores Sep 8, 2024

Omaha, 88, Hut Hut! The Breitling Chronomat NFL Collection Scores Big!

The breeze is changing direction, leaves are turning yellow, and legions of fans are packing up their SUV’s with coolers, cornhole gear, and mini-grills. It can only mean one thing - football season! The NFL is back, and it’s time to root for your favorite team! Breitling is here to help with the new Chronomat […] Visit Omaha, 88, Hut Hut! The Breitling Chronomat NFL Collection Scores Big! to read the full article.

How My Grandfather’s IWC Caliber 89 Is A Connection To A Bygone Era Fratello
IWC Caliber 89 Sep 8, 2024

How My Grandfather’s IWC Caliber 89 Is A Connection To A Bygone Era

Watches can be a deeply impersonal affair. The rise of social media hype, luxury exhibitionism, and wristwatch “flexing” is very different from what watches once represented. It wasn’t all that long ago that they were simple time-telling tools with a little style thrown in (perhaps even some panache). This article is a celebration of watches […] Visit How My Grandfather’s IWC Caliber 89 Is A Connection To A Bygone Era to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SLA079 Vs. Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Fratello
Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SLA079 Vs Sep 8, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SLA079 Vs. Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400

Last week, we took an excursion to the land of Nouvelle Horlogerie. This week, we’re returning to our home territory of stainless steel dive watches. Seiko just presented us with two new references under the Marinemaster name. The SLA077 and SLA079 are modern interpretations of the famous 6159-7001 from 1968. As they’re in the more […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SLA079 Vs. Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 to read the full article.

Highlights: Phillips Geneva Online Auction Fall 2024 SJX Watches
Seiko Izul “bullhead” chronograph We Sep 8, 2024

Highlights: Phillips Geneva Online Auction Fall 2024

The fall auction season kicks off with online auctions, before the primary live sales that take place in November. Phillips in Geneva just opened its online auction with a 70-lot offering of the familiar and mainstream (think Aquanaut, Royal Oak, and Nautilus), but also the esoteric and independent, ranging from an Alain Silberstein perpetual calendar made by Svend Andersen to a Seiko Izul “bullhead” chronograph. We round up a few highlights from the sale, which runs from September 5-12, 2024, with the catalogue and bidding available online. Lot 9 –  Alain Silberstein Marine Perpetual Calendar by Svend Andersen Part of Alain Silberstein’s Marine series of dive watches, the Marine Perpetual is a COSC-certified perpetual calendar in a case rated to 200 m. It’s equipped with a clever, double-sided perpetual calendar movement developed by Svend Andersen. Built on an ETA 2892, the perpetual calendar has a minimalist display with only the date on the dial that’s decorated in Silberstein’s trademark style with geometric shapes, primary colours, along with a starfish, crescent, and sun. On the reverse is the months and leap year in a single register that is mounted on the periphery of the movement, allowing the rotor to travel below the indicator. The Marine Perpetual was a limited edition of 100 watches, though it is likely fewer were made, since they are rarely encountered. It was one of several collaborations that Alain Silberstein in the 1990s with prominent in...

The Golden Age of Rolex Movements Part III: Branding vs. Breakthroughs in Recent Years Quill & Pad
Rolex Movements Part III Branding Sep 8, 2024

The Golden Age of Rolex Movements Part III: Branding vs. Breakthroughs in Recent Years

The last two decades have witnessed regular Rolex engineering advances, often in plain sight and in rapid succession. Despite these developments, Rolex remains a brand defined not by movements but by continuity, model families, and the Rolex image itself. Tim Mosso thinks that the root of Rolex’s soft-pedaled reputation for movement virtuosity lies in the company’s own branding strategy. That and more in this third installment of Rolex's history of movement technology.

REVIEW: Hands On With The Baume & Mercier Classima WatchAdvice
Baume & Mercier Classima Somewhere Sep 7, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Baume & Mercier Classima

Somewhere in between dress and sports, the new Baume & Mercier Classima may be in a class of its own, but how does this piece traverse daily life? What we Love Classic and elegant looks The deep blue dial Has the right amount of wrist presence What We Don’t The rotor movement is a little noise The chronograph pushers are on the stiff side The crystal is on the thinner side, reducing the solid feeling of the watch Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 7.5/10 In a recent article, I delved into the history of Baume & Mercier, and the brand today, like many watch brands with almost two centuries worth of history, is different from the one started back in 1830 by the two Baume Brothers. Over the decades, and now centuries, it has evolved from a brand that was specialising in high complications and winning awards at The Kew Watch Trials, to being a solid mid-entry level player in the Swiss watch industry. This is a similar story to many others out there, and this is not a negative thing by any stretch, it’s just the way the world works – watches and other industries alike. William Baume and Paul Mercier, the founders of what is now known as Baume et Mercier, which evolved out of the original Baume & Co brand set up in 1830 by William’s Grandfather and Great Uncle. The pioneers of the brands and industries were just that, pioneers and the inventors of their time. Nowadays, you still need this, but more so, you need ...

Students, It’s Time to Upgrade Your EDC Worn & Wound
Sep 6, 2024

Students, It’s Time to Upgrade Your EDC

It’s official: back-to-school season is in full swing. But while you’re stocking up on your favorite school supplies, don’t forget to reevaluate your everyday carry. Everyday carry, or EDC, is that collection of items that find their way into your pockets each and every day. It’s the tools you rely on a day-to-day basis; and, when chosen carefully, will help you feel prepared to take on whatever may come your way. In today’s Chronicle, we examine four ways to upgrade your EDC for the new academic year. Hope you’re ready to take notes because the class is now in session. It’s official: back-to-school season is in full swing. But while you’re stocking up on your favorite school supplies, don’t forget to reevaluate your everyday carry. Everyday carry, or EDC, is that collection of items that find their way into your pockets each and every day. It’s the tools you rely on a day-to-day basis; and, when chosen carefully, will help you feel prepared to take on whatever may come your way. In today’s Chronicle, we examine four ways to upgrade your EDC for the new academic year. Hope you’re ready to take notes because the class is now in session. The post Students, It’s Time to Upgrade Your EDC appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Business News: LVMH Close to Formula 1 Sponsorship Deal SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton would have Sep 6, 2024

Business News: LVMH Close to Formula 1 Sponsorship Deal

The rumours have been swirling for some months that LVMH has replaced Rolex as a key sponsor of Formula 1. As we noted in our July editorial, that wasn’t true yet. According to a source inside F1, LVMH and Formula One Group are on the cusp of a multiyear sponsorship deal starting in 2025. The French luxury group will join Lenovo and Santander as the latest sponsors of F1. Once signed, the deal will mean that LVMH takes the place of Rolex, which had been “Global Partner” of F1 since 2013. The group is not new to F1. TAG Heuer is now a sponsor of Red Bull Racing, while Dior only just signed up Lewis Hamilton as a brand ambassador. But now the group’s many brands – 75 at last count – could stand to gain even more exposure with F1. Marques like Moët & Chandon, Hublot, Loro Piana, and of course Louis Vuitton would have the chance to share in the increasing viewership of the sport, which has been steadily growing its presence in pop culture since it was acquired American media conglomerate Liberty Media in 2017. Besides adding races in glamorous cities like Miami, F1 is now the subject of a hit television series on Netflix. And a film starring Brad Pitt, titled F1 naturally, will premiere on Apple TV next year. LVMH Watch Division chief Frédéric Arnault (third from left) at the 2023 Monaco Grand Prix with the drivers of Red Bull Racing. Image – TAG Heuer TAG Heuer returns More importantly, an F1 deal will be a return to form of sorts for TAG Heuer, the biggest ...

H. Moser & Cie. Collaborates with Studio Underd0g on a Fruity Pair SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Collaborates Sep 6, 2024

H. Moser & Cie. Collaborates with Studio Underd0g on a Fruity Pair

H. Moser & Cie. has often injected humour into its watchmaking and does so with its latest collaboration, a pair of watches conceived with micro-brand Studio Underd0g. Presented a box set of two watches, the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavor Calendar Passion Fruit and Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit are designed around the same theme, namely passionfruit. Each watch, however, reflects the respective brand’s signature characteristics and price point. The Moser is a perpetual calendar with an in-house movement and fired enamel dial, while the Studio Underd0g is a Sellita-powered chronograph. Initial thoughts The collaborations in horology are sometimes uninspiring and dull. While MoonSwatch may be a commercial hit, or was a hit, it is precisely what one would expect from Swatch and Omega. However, the fruity duo from Moser and Studio Underd0g manage to be different, while retaining the brands’ respective identities. This is also one of the instances where a box set isn’t made up of repetitive or redundant watches. Though similar in colour, the two watches are substantially different, particularly in tactile feel. The owner can choose to wear either for different occasions or even gift one (probably the chronograph). Priced at CHF59,000 for the pair, the passionfruit editions are good value considering what would sell for individually. The Studio Underd0g would probably cost about CHF3,000, with the Moser accounting for the rest of the price, which is comparable to the re...

First Look – The Biver Automatique, The Brand’s Vision of a Classic 3-hand Watch Monochrome
Sep 6, 2024

First Look – The Biver Automatique, The Brand’s Vision of a Classic 3-hand Watch

After retiring from his executive role at LVMH, industry veteran Jean-Claude Biver embarked on a new venture, creating a family-owned brand with his son Pierre – with a much-anticipated and commented launch in 2023, specifically given Biver’s aura. The Bivers’ vision to focus on high-end, high-grade, limited-production timepieces first took shape with the Biver Carillon […]

Biver Debuts a Most Sophisticated Micro-Rotor Calibre SJX Watches
Sep 6, 2024

Biver Debuts a Most Sophisticated Micro-Rotor Calibre

Founded by the namesake father and son duo, Biver has just debuted its second model, the Biver Automatique. Though a simple a time-only watch with central seconds, in contrast to the preceding Carillon Tourbillon, the Automatique is equipped with an elaborately executed movement that’s arguably the most impressive recent automatic. Besides decorative touches like guilloche on the bridges, the JCB-003 also features details like a grande sonnerie-style winding click. The calibre is paired with a comparably elaborately constructed dial with solid gold appliqués that’s available in a variety of materials, including mineral stone like Pietersite. The JCB-003 Initial thoughts The Automatique is clearly meant to showcase the brand’s ability to create a highly finished and refined time-only watch that can compete with more established producers, both in terms of the movement as well as habillage (namely the dial and case). The highlight of the Automatique is the JCB-003 movement. Developed in partnership with movement specialist Dubois Depraz, the JCB-003 is quite possibly the most refined micro rotor movement on the market today. Though it is functionally simple, the movement boasts decorative and technical details along with a high level of finishing. The over-engineered caliber is meant to serve as a base for future complications, which makes sense considering the high cost involved in constructing such a movement. Amongst the calibre’s notable details is the grande so...

Lessons Learned From Geneva Watch Days - Complicated Times Call For Complicated Watches Fratello
Sep 6, 2024

Lessons Learned From Geneva Watch Days - Complicated Times Call For Complicated Watches

The 2024 edition of Geneva Watch Days was the hottest ever. Not only did the temperatures soar to unprecedented heights (30+ degrees Celsius), but more brands also showed their goods than ever before (52), and the number of visitors compared to last year increased by more than 70% (13,800). Some watch insiders expected an event […] Visit Lessons Learned From Geneva Watch Days - Complicated Times Call For Complicated Watches to read the full article.

A Unique F.P. Journe Élégante for Geneva’s MAMCO Art Museum SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Museum Sep 6, 2024

A Unique F.P. Journe Élégante for Geneva’s MAMCO Art Museum

Continuing with its regular support for various charities around the world, F.P. Journe has created the Élégante 48 mm Titalyt MAMCO that will be sold to benefit the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art of Geneva (MAMCO) on September 18, 2024. It’s essentially a variation of the stock Élégante with an engraved bezel and a reproduction of Maurizio Nannucci’s 1994 Art on the dial. While the watch is simple, the number will be big. As an example, the one-off Élégante 48 “Pink” raised over US$400,000 for American breast cancer charity in February this year. MAMCO 30 F.P. Journe has long been a supporter of MAMCO via its sponsorship of the Prix Solo at artgenève, an annual art fair organised by the museum. The one-off Élégante was conceived to raise funds for MAMCO’s renovation, which is part of the institution’s 30th anniversary commemoration this year. Founded in 1994 by a group of prominent bankers and lawyers, MAMCO is Switzerland’s largest museum dedicated to contemporary art. Located in a former factory, MAMCO sits across from the Patek Philippe Museum, and a five minute’s walk from F.P. Journe’s manufacture. The Élégante MAMCO is the larger size of the model, measuring 48 mm lengthwise. It has a titanium case coated in Titalyt, which is essentially a ceramic layer created via chemical oxidation. The case is identical to that on the standard model, save for the bezel that is engraved with “MAMCO” and “30”, a reference to the museum...

TAG Heuer Gets Extreme with the Latest Carreras Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Gets Extreme Sep 5, 2024

TAG Heuer Gets Extreme with the Latest Carreras

If you’d told me eighteen months ago that the TAG Heuer Carrera would, in very short order, find itself once again at the center of enthusiast interest, there’s a very good chance I’d have laughed you out of the room. And yet, here we sit, 17 months on from the release of the Carrera ‘Glassbox’ and there can be no doubt - thanks in part to an expanded lineup of compelling variants of the 39mm chronograph, as well as exciting interpretations like the widely discussed and sought after Seafarer LE for HODINKEE - that TAG Heuer’s signature chronograph is one of the hottest watches on the market. But the Glassbox is only one side of the Carrera story. Now, TAG Heuer is leaning into the other side with the unveiling of a new technical chronograph. Where the Carrera ‘Glassbox’ looks to the history of the Carrera, the new Carrera Extreme Sport - introduced as a collection of six watches spread across two models: the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport and the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport - present a vision of the future and a bold one at that. The two new models share a lot in common, most notably a shared aesthetic and case design. Both the Chronograph Extreme Sport and the Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport measure 44mm across, 15.1mm thick, and 49.7mm lug-to-lug. Certainly not small, but also decidedly wearable for a chronograph meant to wear large. The lug-to-lug measure, in particular, is deceptively compact and shou...

Roue Adds Two New References to the TPS Collections Worn & Wound
Seiko VK63 Meca-Quartz movement which Sep 5, 2024

Roue Adds Two New References to the TPS Collections

Since 2019, watchmakers Roue have been updating their TPS model in new colors, bringing new life to a vintage-inspired design. In the past, we have covered their releases of Two, Three, Four, Five, Six, and Seven – so you can make a pretty educated guess of what’s been released this week.  Like previous iterations of their TPS collection, the Eight and Nine are inspired by the iconic Porsche 910, winner of the Nürburgring 1000-kilometer race in 1967 (a detail which can be seen on the embossed caseback of this line). The racing inspiration can be felt throughout this watch, most especially in the colorways for both new references. In Eight, you will find a gray dial with orange and yellow accents. For Nine, the tonal language is more classic, utilizing a blue dial with red and white accents. Both watches come with complementary straps which are at once sporty and a bit elegant – much like the TPS line itself. One can choose either a perforated leather Driver strap, or a sportier silicone option.  Features of this watch include a chronograph with both a tachymeter and pulsometer scale. Given the limited real estate on this 40mm case, one would think these functions might be a little squeezed into the frame, so to speak. But Roue has proven time and again that the TPS model is a great example of a perfectly proportioned dial.  The Roue TPS Eight and Nine, like previous iterations, run on a Seiko VK63 Meca-Quartz movement, which combines the accuracy of quartz techno...

#TBT A Legendary Czech Prim Sport Made Into A Unique Timepiece Fratello
Sep 5, 2024

#TBT A Legendary Czech Prim Sport Made Into A Unique Timepiece

Imagine taking a €500 watch and giving it to the Artisans de Genève workshop to create something truly unique. That’s sort of what happened to one beaten and forgotten Prim Sport watch, which I received as a Christmas gift from my beloved watchmaker Tomas Sinal in 2019. You have read about Tomas Sinal quite often […] Visit #TBT A Legendary Czech Prim Sport Made Into A Unique Timepiece to read the full article.

First Look – The New Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Kudoke Limited Editions Monochrome
Louis Erard x Kudoke Limited Editions Sep 5, 2024

First Look – The New Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Kudoke Limited Editions

Under the leadership of Manuel Emch, Louis Erard has gained significant attention, mainly due to its affordable luxury approach and collaborations with notable watchmakers and designers. These partnerships have brought the brand into the limelight since its revival following a private investor’s acquisition in 2003. Renowned watchmakers and creatives such as Konstantin Chaykin, Alain Silberstein, […]