Hodinkee
Six Of The Coolest CPO Rolex Watches I Saw In London's Old Bond Street Rolex Boutique
So much good stuff, and all of it vetted.
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Hodinkee
Fratello
Introducing: The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Annual Calendar Limited Edition
Montblanc began making watches in 1997, but in reality, the brand’s watchmaking history runs a lot deeper. In 2007, the noted penmaker purchased Minerva, a revered Swiss manufacture founded in 1857. Since then, complicated pieces have carried the famous name on the movement and, at times, on the dial. Today’s 1858 Geosphere Annual Calendar Limited […] Visit Introducing: The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Annual Calendar Limited Edition to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Metronome
I love when Seiko gets niche, quirky, or just straight-up weird. There was the Egg-Boiling watch for, well, boiling eggs. And then there was even a “Vampire-Exclusive” watch for those who choose to live that lifestyle. But the Seiko Metronome from 2022 is special because it really has a practical purpose and is a little extra nifty because it was made by Seiko Instruments, which is the brand’s division responsible for electric components, printers, and - you guessed it - metronomes. There were several versions of the watch produced in different colors but the Seiko Metronome SMW006A seen here is definitely one of the cleaner and better-looking models. A basic primer for those unfamiliar with this instrument: a metronome is a device that creates a steady beat (either audibly or visually) measured by BPM (Beats Per Minute) to help musicians stay on rhythm. Design: Before getting into the functionality and novelty of the Seiko Metronome, I want to talk about how well designed it is. It would be easy to relegate this watch into the "technical instrument" bucket that so often leads to the “function over form” thinking that results in such obscure and, for lack of a better word, “nerdy” designs that can be really quite off-putting. The Seiko Metronome, and more specifically the reference SMW006A, avoids falling into that trap by leaning into a minimalist, almost-Bauhaus design that belies the data-heavy display of its functionality. The matte white dial is arra...
Time+Tide
A. Lange & Söhne’s smallest-yet 1815 is a masterclass in restraint
Slender, small and elegant, Lange's smallest 1815 is somewhat of a challenge to the expectations of the brand.The post A. Lange & Söhne’s smallest-yet 1815 is a masterclass in restraint appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Hands-on - Chronoswiss Goes Lightweight & Sporty With The New Pulse One Collection
It seems that the integrated sports watch trend shows no signs of slowing down, and for the most part, we’re not complaining about that. It’s always good to see brands adapt and evolve, and to offer diversity and originality in a sense. Of course, following trends can be risky and time-sensitive, but in today’s industry, […]
Teddy Baldassarre
IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX Review
The pilot watch genre is a funny thing. These watches are marketed and sold for their connection to history and/or their usefulness within the field of aviation. This history has set a visual identity that defines the genre to this day, with complications like flyback timers and slide rules often featuring heavily. Of course, very few of the owners put these features to use, with fewer still serving as actual pilots. Thus, the pilot watch genre really serves as more of a vibe than any kind of practical watermark. There are exceptions to this, however, and ironically enough, some of the most practical everyday tool watches find themselves with the “pilot watch” designation, and there is perhaps no better example of this than the IWC Mark XX. The name of the game with any great tool watch is clarity. Ideally, there’s nothing superfluous to cloud the core goals of the tool, with a premium placed on simple legibility. One of the strongest templates based on this ethos is the IWC Mark XI from the late ‘40s. It wasn’t the first IWC Mk watch, but it is the one responsible for casting a die that persists to this day in the form of the Mk XX. There are important distinctions, which I’ll get to, but the underpinnings of the modern Mk XX collection are built on the same general formula that made the Mk XI great: it’s easy to use, easy to understand, easy to wear, and is exactly as stout as it needs to be. IWC enjoys a highly developed design language for its range of pi...
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Panerai Submersible Chrono Marina Militare Experience Edition PAM01699
Panerai has just unveiled a new limited edition watch born from its partnership with the Italian Navy-yet for the first time, this collaboration extends beyond the seas and onto the skies, as Panerai teams up with the Navy’s aviation division, Aviazione Navale, for the launch of the latest Submersible Chrono Marina Militare Experience Edition. The […]
Time+Tide
Can the Solstice Revival save a fledgling brand from bankruptcy?
Solstice's latest watch is a complete re-do of the entire brand, scrapping its bland past in the hopes that honesty and value can save it.The post Can the Solstice Revival save a fledgling brand from bankruptcy? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Patriotic Depancel Allure Valjoux 92 Bleu de France
The name Depancel speaks volumes about where this independent French brand finds inspiration. Amalgamating the names of three prestigious French carmakers – Delage, Panhard, and Facel Vega – Depancel and the world of motorsports are inseparable. Its Allure collection of automatic and manual-winding chronographs welcomes a limited edition powered by a restored 1950s Valjoux 92 […]
Fratello
Introducing: The New Garrick S3 Deadbeat Seconds
When you buy a high-end mechanical watch, you may expect a few things - a fine guilloché dial, for example, and/or a smoothly sweeping seconds hand. British watchmaker Garrick sure knows how to deliver both of those. However, you get neither of them with the new S3 Deadbeat Seconds. What you do get, though, is […] Visit Introducing: The New Garrick S3 Deadbeat Seconds to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Rolex GMT-Master II 126729VTNR “Green Ceramic” & 26715CHNR “Tiger Iron”
In the run up to Watches & Wonders 2025, many commentators expected a breakout year for the GMT-Master II, since it’s the 80th year of the collection. But Rolex took things in a different direction and dominated headlines by launching the Land-Dweller instead. But Rolex didn’t forget about its signature travel watch, and debuted two new precious metal models. The first is the GMT-Master II ref. 126729VTNR, which is in 18k white gold with a left-handed crown and a green ceramic dial; a first for Rolex. The second is the GMT-Master II ref. 126715CHNR in Everose that brings a new dial material to Rolex, tiger iron, one of the oldest minerals on Earth. Both models are available exclusively with an Oyster bracelet in matching 18k gold. The “lefty” with its glossy green ceramic dial Initial thoughts I admit to being laser-focused on the Land-Dweller during Watches & Wonders; the new movement technology captured (and held) my attention throughout the event. But I still made time to check out the GMT-Master II collection, which was one of my favourite Rolex collections at one point in time. Naturally, both of these new references exude quality, which can be experienced directly in the smooth operation of the bezel and the decisive action of the clasp. The watches are decadent, heavy, and show that Rolex has not run out of ideas for interesting dials. In the case of the green ceramic dial in the “destro” variant, I think we can expect to see this material used more wide...
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
A Week in Watches Ep. 102 - The Indies of April
Watches & Wonders may have wrapped a few weeks ago, flooding everyone’s feeds with Tudors, Rolexes, Grand Seikos, Pateks, Zeniths, and more than a few Hublots-but we’re not diving into any of that today. Instead, on episode 102 of A Week in Watches, we take a step back from the hype and turn our attention to the quieter-but no less exciting-independent releases that emerged around the same time. April was surprisingly packed with creative drops from small brands doing things their own way, and while the big names stole the headlines, the indies delivered some of the most interesting watches of the month. Before diving into a few standout releases-yes, including that particularly “crazy” one-here’s a quick heads-up: Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2025 is just around the corner. It’s happening May 2nd through 4th at the Gateway Pavilion in Fort Mason Park. Over 80 brands will be there, it’s free, and it’s open to all. If you’re on the West Coast, swing by. Full details and the exhibitor list are up now at windupwatchfair.com. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 102 – The Indies of April appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Deployant
Watching the CEOs: Guido Terreni of Parmigiani discusses the new releases for 2025
We met up with Guido Terreni, CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier during Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025, and got him to discuss this year's novelties.
Time+Tide
Three new Alpine Eagle pieces prove just how versatile the collection can be
Complication, materials, and drop-dead gorgeous looks.The post Three new Alpine Eagle pieces prove just how versatile the collection can be appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Business News: Rolex Will Raise U.S. Prices In Response To Tariffs
Top Swiss brand to increase prices by an average of 3% beginning May 1 and Omega prices to rise 5%.
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Land-Dweller 127336 Vs. Patek Philippe Cubitus 7128/1G
It’s Sunday again, and for our showdown this week, we set up a clash between two polarizing watches that inspire no shortage of fervid opinions. First, there is the brand-new Rolex Land-Dweller that the brand unveiled during Watches and Wonders a few weeks back. It goes up against the much-debated Patek Philippe Cubitus, which debuted […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Land-Dweller 127336 Vs. Patek Philippe Cubitus 7128/1G to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Nomos Watches Review
In its relatively young existence, Nomos Glashütte has become one of the most popular and successful German watch brands as well as probably the most accessible to newer (and younger) collectors. Nomos’s success - which includes an impressive string of German design awards - has resulted from a combination of sensible pricing, classical Bauhaus design, and creative forays into color, with a bit of mechanical innovation thrown in for good measure. Read on for an in-depth look at today's Nomos Glashütte collection, along with some background on the brand. A Rebirth in Glashütte It was just two months after the Fall of the Berlin Wall, in January 1990, when Roland Schwertner, a photographer and tech-savvy entrepreneur from Düsseldorf, founded Nomos in the East German town of Glashütte, deriving its name from the Ancient Greek god of law. Before World War II and the subsequent Cold War that partitioned Germany into two nations, the town (above), outside of Dresden in the state of Saxony, was a world center of watchmaking. The foundation of Nomos - along with the revival of historical watch brands like A. Lange & Söhne and the evolution of the conglomerate known as Glashütte Original into a luxury watchmaker - spearheaded the rebirth of Glashütte’s horological heritage in the new, reunited Germany. What set Nomos apart from most of the other manufacturers in Glashütte, then as now, is the company’s clean, modernist aesthetics as well as its relatively...
Deployant
New: Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574
Panerai proudly returns to the world’s most important design fair as the Official Timekeeper of Salone del Mobile, thus reinforcing Panerai’s commitment to the world of design and innovation. As a tribute to this prestigious occasion, the Maison presents the Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574 making its debut at Panerai’s pop-up at Milano Rho Fiera.
Time+Tide
Bremont jumps on a trend with the Terra Nova Jumping Hour Collection (live pics)
The British brand offers its take on the jumping hour watch trend, with Terra Nova models in bronze and steel.The post Bremont jumps on a trend with the Terra Nova Jumping Hour Collection (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Acclaimed Musician Harry Belafonte’s Wyler Watch Surfaces In The US
Harry Belafonte is a hero to many, including Fratello reader Billy Denty. This is for good reason. A successful musician who sold more than 3,000,000 albums, he was also a man of immense social conscience. He led a remarkable life, and today, thanks to one Fratello reader, we get to see Belafonte’s Wyler watch up […] Visit Acclaimed Musician Harry Belafonte’s Wyler Watch Surfaces In The US to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The Ace × Nomos Metro Neomatik Orange - Celebrating Ace Jewelers’ 50th Anniversary
Today, we’re celebrating King’s Day here in the Netherlands. It’s actually our King’s birthday tomorrow, but that’s a Sunday, so the festivities take place today. A lot of people already started partying last night, during King’s Night, and this morning, the flea markets opened up all around the country. But the most important way of […] Visit Introducing: The Ace × Nomos Metro Neomatik Orange - Celebrating Ace Jewelers’ 50th Anniversary to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574
Panerai moves quickly! After a busy Watches and Wonders 2025, there’s already another new release. The Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica was announced with the brand’s official timekeeping role at the Salone del Mobile. This is Milan’s Design Week, and the event is the world’s largest furniture show. Furniture may sound like a funny connection […] Visit Introducing: The Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Recap - The Best Perpetual Calendar Watches From Watches & Wonders 2025
One of the most classical and complex yet satisfying complications to master is, of course, the Perpetual Calendar. It was Patek Philippe who first put a perpetual calendar pocket watch movement into a wristwatch in 1925, but the history of the Quantième Perpétuel, as it’s called in French and explains why it’s often abbreviated to […]
Worn & Wound
Garrick Takes a Huge Step Forward with the S3 Deadbeat Seconds
One of my favorite stories in independent watchmaking over the last few years has been the evolution of Garrick, the Norwich based brand specializing in meticulously finished, custom made watches. In a relatively short time, the brand has transformed itself into something of an experimental haute horlogerie specialist. The first Garrick watch I can recall writing about was the S4, upon its announcement, which represented the entry point into the brand at around £4995 (in 2021). That watch was, and is, impressive, with a great deal of hand-work and a dizzying level of customization possible. But it would have been tough to predict that just four years later Garrick would be playing at another level entirely, flirting with GPHG honors, and offering bespoke watches that, if made by other, larger brands or more established watchmakers, would likely have price tags sailing into the six figures. The new S3 Deadbeat Seconds release feels like a statement of purpose from Garrick. It is, as the brand puts it, “the pinnacle of Garrick ownership.” The watch itself is effectively a combination of two ideas the brand has been playing with over the last few years, the S3 Mk II (the GPHG finalist from last year featuring a completely openworked dial, focusing on the brand’s finishing capabilities), and the deadbeat seconds complication, as seen in the S2 Deadbeat. The new watch, then, features a deadbeat complication but is given an aesthetic treatment similar to the S3 Mk II, w...
Time+Tide
19 of the best French watch brands keeping the historic craft alive
Being the cradle of watchmaking, France is bound to have some good watchmakers - and it does.The post 19 of the best French watch brands keeping the historic craft alive appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Business News: Oris CEO Doubles Down On Value Amid Challenging Markets
Oris is staying true to its mission, delivering quality Swiss-made watches at the best possible price, and calls on the rest of the industry to follow its lead.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Best Grand Seiko Dials
If there’s one thing Grand Seiko is known for, it is its textured dials….and Spring Drive…and Zaratsu polishing... Okay, one of the things Grand Seiko is known for is its textured dials. Often inspired by the beauty of the natural landscape surrounding Grand Seiko's manufacture in Japan, these dials are now often imitated but never truly replicated. We asked our editorial team here at Teddy to choose their favorite GS dial and, unsurprisingly, we got some really stunning picks here. So, without further ado, here are our Editors’ Picks for favorite Grand Seiko dials. Bilal Khan: SBGA011/SBGA211 "Snowflake" The Grand Seiko SBGA211 (originally the SBGA011), aka the Snowflake, is where it all began. Back in 2004, the watchmakers at the dial workshop in the Shinshu watch studio were given a novel task: create a dial that would capture the beauty of the natural surroundings of where the Spring Drive movement was born. The answer was in front of their eyes when they gazed at the snow-capped mountains that commanded their views for half the year. Creating this dial was a challenge but they found inspiration from an old 56GS watch dating back to 1971, which had a texture similar to what the team wanted to achieve. It took some trial and error but they found success through a silver plating method that would go on to birth the now-iconic "Snowflake" dial. It might look somewhat demure and less dramatic than more recent textured dials, but this is the quintessential Grand Sei...
SJX Watches
Breguet Turns to Tradition with the Classique Souscription
The opening salvo in Breguet’s 250th anniversary has just been revealed: the Classique Souscription 2025BH. Although typically Breguet in style, the watch is a novel combination of elements, at least by the conventions of Breguet, a traditionally staid brand. Presented in a case of the new design made of a gold alloy of a new formula, it’s a wristwatch inspired by the one-handed souscription pocket watches of the 18th and 19th centuries. The fired enamel dial replicates that of the pocket watch, while inside is the VS00, a calibre that is descended from the movement of the La Tradition. Initial thoughts As storied a brand as it is, Breguet certainly has a lot to live up to for its 250th anniversary. I expect more to come from Breguet in the coming months, but the Classique Souscription is a strong start, though a little pricey. It’s essentially an elaborately executed time-only watch, precisely the sort of watch that is popular now when made by independent watchmakers, but big brands face more scepticism with such timepieces. The VS00 Though it might seem typical Breguet on its face, the Classique Souscription is an unusual proposition; it’s inspired by various elements from across Breguet’s history, some several centuries apart. The dial and movement are inspired by a 19th century pocket watch, while the case comes much later. But everything works well and the whole manages to look like a Breguet. Traditionalists might mourn the departure from familiar elements ...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon
Bulgari made its debut at Watches & Wonders this year, having previously exhibited outside the fair. It was a fitting occasion to launch the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, the thinnest tourbillon watch ever at just 1.85 mm thick. Housed in the brand’s signature matte grey titanium case and limited to just 20 pieces, the Ultra Tourbillon is paired with an equally thin and silky titanium bracelet. Bulgari is deeply invested in its leadership in ultra-thin watchmaking, and the Ultra Tourbillon shows the brand is willing to do whatever it takes to own as many records in this field as possible. Initial thoughts Despite its record-breaking slimness, there was surprisingly little buzz about the Ultra at Watches & Wonders. This may be due to record fatigue, since the previous record was set just last year by the Piaget AUC Tourbillon. It could also be due to the diminishing returns of these types of records, which are now being broken by almost imperceptible margins. On its exterior, the Ultra Tourbillon is quite similar the 1.7 mm-thick Octo Finissimo Ultra introduced last year. It features a 40 mm case made from a combination of titanium and tungsten carbide, and is impressively open-worked, revealing just about every wheel and pinion on the dial side of the watch. But this watch is all about the headline figure of its 1.85 mm thickness, which endows the Ultra Tourbillon with a delicate, almost weightless feel. The case in profile. Image – Bulgari Like all ultra-thin recor...
Worn & Wound
A Sneak Peek at the Watches of Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2025
The next stop in our ongoing celebration of 10 years of Windup, the Windup Watch Fair San Francisco, is now right around the corner and if you’re like us, you’ve only got one thing on your mind: what watches am I going to see? Whether you are planning to stop at specific brands on your tour of the Fort Mason venue, or your plan is to wander through the nearly 90 different watch and EDC brands, today we’re highlighting a selection of standout projects from our Lead Sponsors. As always, Windup is free and open to the public, thanks in large part to these brands who continue to support the enthusiast community. You can see all of these brands and more at the 2025 Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco: Fort Mason – Gateway Pavilion, 2 Marina Blvd, San Francisco Friday, May 2: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, May 3: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, May 4: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public You can see every sponsor on the Windup Watch Fair website. While you’re on the site, be sure to sign up for Windup updates to make sure you continue to get the latest info in advance of and throughout the Windup weekend. Here’s that sneak peek at the watches of our 2025 Lead Sponsors in San Francisco! anOrdain anOrdain is proud to celebrate the crafts of watchmaking and fired arts by introducing the Model 2 Porcelain. The Model 2 offers a true porcelain dial that was developed in-house after years of research aided by master potters in Stoke-on-Trent, England. Each dial is lovingly handcrafted by p...