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Results for WOSTEP (Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program)

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The Hamilton Fontainebleau “Day ‘N Date” 6004:  The Potential Catalyst for an Innovative Case Design Renaissance Worn & Wound
Hamilton Fontainebleau “Day ‘N Date” Apr 7, 2026

The Hamilton Fontainebleau “Day ‘N Date” 6004: The Potential Catalyst for an Innovative Case Design Renaissance

I feel that the contemporary watch market has a noticeable lack of fun, exciting, and unique watch case designs. Brands have put a major emphasis on dials made from rare materials or composed of intricate designs recently, but very few companies have put time into producing cases that offer a special experience for the wearer. Round and tank-styled timepieces are, and will forever be, the norm within the watch industry. However, this gap in the modern market gives collectors a chance to look back into vintage catalogs to familiarize themselves with fads and stylistic ventures of previous horological eras. With this in mind, I’d like to take a trip back to 1968 and examine the creation of the Hamilton Fontainebleau series, specifically the 6004 “Day ‘N Date” reference, to exhibit just how innovative case design can truly be. It’s typically an overlooked piece of the design formula, but when a watch features a case profile unlike any other, it certainly stands out among the pack. A Brief History of Fontainebleau and the 6004 In 1966, the patents for Hamilton designer Ulrich Nydegger’s new case were published. A couple of years later, the first few Fontainebleau models hit the market and garnered a decent amount of popularity. It wasn’t until 1969’s Fontainebleau Chrono-Matic chronograph, however, that the line would see a substantial amount of press and recognition for its innovative design. The collectibility of the Chrono-Matic model continues to increase o...

Ressence Debuts the Type 11, with the All New In-House RW-01 Movement Worn & Wound
Ressence Debuts Apr 7, 2026

Ressence Debuts the Type 11, with the All New In-House RW-01 Movement

For as long as we’ve talked about Ressence, part of the discussion has always been about how clever they are for producing such an ingenious and unique system for time telling, all built on top of a standard, off-the-shelf ETA movement. Their patented ROCS module, which displays the time via a series of rotating discs rather than traditional hands, is a complicated piece of engineering that has always lived alongside a caliber that is rather ordinary. For me, and many others, this was always part of the charm of a Ressence watch, and underscored the idea that watchmaking is a broad discipline and that with some creativity even a simple ETA movement can be turned into something extraordinary.  That changes a little today with the introduction of the Ressence Type 11, featuring the all new RW-01 movement, the first in-house designed Ressence movement. Designed specifically to power the ROCS, the RW-01 is an integrated, automatic caliber that appears to be an improvement in just about every way over previous movements found in Ressence watches.  First and perhaps most notably, this movement has a 60 hour power reserve, which can be monitored on the dial via ceramic micro balls. For years, Ressence watches have featured power reserves that topped out at slightly less than the ETA movements they were based on due to the demands of running the ROCS module. But the RW-01 was designed from the ground up to work with ROCS, eliminating many of the compromises made with previous ...

Ressence Introduces First Proprietary Movement SJX Watches
Ressence Introduces First Proprietary Movement Apr 7, 2026

Ressence Introduces First Proprietary Movement

Independent watchmaker Ressence unveils the Type 11, powered by a proprietary movement for the first time. The trailblazer of oil-filled mechanical modules, Ressence has so far relied on third-party base movements to power its eccentric creations. The Belgium-based watchmaker has finally taken the next step and developed its own calibre, dubbed the Ressence-Werk RW-01.  Initial thoughts  Ressence watches are instantly recognisable for their inventive and minimalist way of telling the time, using the patented Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) to put a new spin on the classic time display. Using a clever arrangement of planetary gears powered by a base movement, Ressence has achieved an original functional design that remains unique to this day.  In terms of design, Ressence has an unmistakable, contemporary look, not unlike that of Apple. As a result, partnerships like those with industrial designer Marc Newson feel natural. The concept behind Ressence’s signature time display is the use of clear silicone-based oil which fills the hermetically sealed ROCS module to the crystal. The fluid medium cancels out total internal reflection, leading to the illusion that the turning disks sit right under the crystal itself. In this respect, Ressence dials can at times look like an OLED screen in a smartwatch. The Type 11 continues the signature streamlined minimalism of past Ressence models, but adopts a less complicated display. There are hours, minutes and seconds, arrange...

New: Louis Erard X Alain Silberstein - two additional references Deployant
Louis Erard X Alain Silberstein – Apr 7, 2026

New: Louis Erard X Alain Silberstein - two additional references

Louis Erard and Alain Silberstein continue one of modern watchmaking’s most distinctive collaborations with the Smile‑Day Blue and the Tourbillon Régulateur Blue. These two new models open the brand’s newly introduced Hall of Fame collection and reaffirm a shared philosophy that blends technical seriousness with joy, color, and personality.

Bonniksen Reborn with Handmade Le Carrousel SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey CEO Michel Nydeggar Bonniksen Apr 7, 2026

Bonniksen Reborn with Handmade Le Carrousel

Bonniksen makes its debut with the aptly named Le Carrousel, a 30-second carrousel wristwatch that will launch under the secondary banner of Naissance d’une Montre 4, which means it will be fully handmade. Le Carrousel’s completion date has not been announced, but good things take time, especially when made without the assistance of automated machinery. Left to right: Bonniksen co-founder and CEO Jason Chevrolat, Greubel Forsey CEO Michel Nydeggar, Bonniksen co-founder Maximin Chapuis, and David Bernard from the Time Æon Foundation. Initial thoughts It’s shaping up to be a big year for independent watchmaking, with a number of new and old names making their debuts. Bonniksen is among the latter, and looks to be a good-faith effort to do justice to the legacy of the inventor of the carrousel. While the rebirth of an old name is a familiar (if not tiresome) formula, one can’t help but appreciate the care with which the name of Bonniken makes its return. For one thing, the movement, which still exists only in sketches and models, is a true carrousel, built to co-founder Maximin Chapuis’ design after 5,500 hours of technical research. In other words, it’s not just an old name attached to an off-the-shelf calibre. The fact that it will debut as a Montre 4 in the Naissance d’une Montre project is another reason to take the effort seriously. If that weren’t enough, the brand has apparently been given the blessing of Bonniksen’s living descendants, which helps t...

Introducing - The New Anton Suhanov Flamingo, A “Flaming Balance” Wristwatch Monochrome
Ming o Apr 7, 2026

Introducing - The New Anton Suhanov Flamingo, A “Flaming Balance” Wristwatch

Independent watchmaker Anton Suhanov, member of the AHCI, presents the Flamingo, a debut of his “flaming balance” concept in a wristwatch equipped with a fully in-house calibre. Known for complex clocks, including multi-axis tourbillons and the award-winning St Petersburg Easter Egg Tourbillon Clock (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2025), but also experimenting with wristwatches with […]

Albishorn Introduces their Latest “Imaginary Vintage” Watch, the Thundergraph Khumbu Worn & Wound
Albishorn Introduces their Latest “Imaginary Apr 6, 2026

Albishorn Introduces their Latest “Imaginary Vintage” Watch, the Thundergraph Khumbu

Last week, Albishorn unveiled the latest in their ongoing series of “Imaginary Vintage” watches, the Thundergraph Kumbu. Founded by Sébastien Chaulmontet nearly two years ago, Albishorn is a high concept indie focused on a very specific strain of vintage watch inspiration. The watches that make up the Albishorn collection not only take their design cues from vintage watches, they are conceived as that never existed, but could have, and provide, as Chaumontet puts it, “a missing link” between the past and present. That centers each new watch on the idea of storytelling, and Albishorn has created elaborate imaginary backstories for each of their watches released to this point. (You can find our previous coverage of the brand here). The new watch from Albishorn, the Thundergraph Khumbu, is a new take on last year’s Thundergraph Himalaya, a chronograph conceived for alpine exploration. The idea here essentially was that on a climb, an alpinist would need easy legibility and the benefit of a rotating bezel to time ascent phases. The oversized crown and bezel, and monopusher chronograph execution, are also intended as design nods that would benefit a climber in difficult terrain (of course, these are straightforward tool watch design codes that could be applied to any number of situations – but that’s where the storytelling piece kicks in).  For the new Thundergraph Khumbu, Albishorn has introduced a green dial, which the brand says is inspired by the landscapes ...

Louis Vuitton’s Arty Automata is Psychedelic Metiers d’Art SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton s Arty Automata Apr 6, 2026

Louis Vuitton’s Arty Automata is Psychedelic Metiers d’Art

The Tambour Taiko Arty Automata is the latest creation from Louis Vuitton to feature jacquemart, or mechanical animations. Like the Tambour Opera before it, the Arty Automata features a complex, multi-layer dial with multiple mechanisms that whir into motion at the press of a button, including spinning hearts and a swivelling eyeball. But this also incorporates a flying tourbillon at six, while the dial itself is grand feu enamel – and tiny bird feathers for the eyelashes. Initial thoughts The flamboyant, psychedelic Arty Automata is definitely not for everyone, but the mechanical and artisanal credentials of the watch are impressive (save for one detail, more on that later). To start with, the Arty Automata is a more manageable 42 mm by 13.6 mm, compared to earlier automata models that were several millimetres larger. Combined with the form of the new Tambour Taiko case, this makes the Art Automata more wearable than its predecessors. More than ergonomics, the scaled down case also underlines the movement development prowess of La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). The attention to detail in terms of the movement also shows in its aesthetics: the calibre adopts the house style of LFT with its relief bridges, but adopted to the “Arty” aesthetic with stars, clouds, and a lacquered rotor. That said, the Etachron-type regulator index for the balance is definitely out of place in a watch of this price. The watch also illustrates the capabilities of the metiers d’art workshop in ...

Introducing - The New Hautlence Sphere Series 4 Monochrome
Hautlence Sphere Series 4 Since Apr 6, 2026

Introducing - The New Hautlence Sphere Series 4

Since its recent revival under the MELB Group (owner of Moser and Agenhor too), Hautlence has focused on unconventional time displays with mechanical animation rather than traditional indications. The Sphere, first introduced in 2022, quickly became the brand’s signature series, combining a multi-axis spherical jumping hour with a retrograde minute. The new Sphere Series 4 […]

Kiwame Tokyo introduces the MUNE(棟), inspired by iconic Japanese architecture Time+Tide
Kiwame Tokyo Apr 6, 2026

Kiwame Tokyo introduces the MUNE(棟), inspired by iconic Japanese architecture

It goes without saying that here at Time+Tide, we love to champion microbrands. While we all love to see what’s new from the biggest brands, the microbrand sphere is the lifeblood of the watch collector scene; it’s where everyone can explore new things and express themselves with interesting, under-the-radar brands. There are niches within that … ContinuedThe post Kiwame Tokyo introduces the MUNE(棟), inspired by iconic Japanese architecture appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

SJX Podcast: Understanding Collector Psychology SJX Watches
Apr 6, 2026

SJX Podcast: Understanding Collector Psychology

Why do watch debates get so heated, so fast - and why does no one ever change their mind? On episode 34 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon sits down with King Flum, collector and author of the ScrewDownCrown Substack, to dig into the psychology behind the arguments that define online watch communities. Drawing on research from psychologists including Jonathan Haidt and Dan Kahan, the conversation covers why our preferences form before we start thinking, why smarter collectors tend to construct more elaborate - not more objective - arguments, and why an attack on your watch can feel like an attack on you personally. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Up Close: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback RRCHF SJX Watches
Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback RRCHF Akrivia Apr 5, 2026

Up Close: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback RRCHF

Akrivia founder Rexhep Rexhepi’s latest creation is the first complication solely under his own name, the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback (RRCHF). Very much embodying his defining style both in terms of aesthetics and execution, the RRCHF nonetheless illustrates the evolution of his approach to watchmaking, particularly in the subtle, fine details of the movement. With a three-register layout that brings to mind historical pocket watches, the RRCHF has a fired enamel with a modern twist in the form of sapphire counters. The movement, on the other hand, reflects Mr Rexhepi’s love of symmetry and fine decoration, while also incorporating a useful bonus in the form of an instantaneously jumping minute register. Initial thoughts After having enjoyed unparalleled success with his time-only creations – exceptionally elaborate but still three hands – Mr Rexhepi is executing a plan he has long talked about: realising his interpretation of the important complications in watchmaking. The RRCCHF is perhaps only the start of the plan, but it is a magnificent chronograph. Conceptually, it is similar to one of the great chronographs, the Lange Datograph, but sans date. While the Datograph, way back in 1999, sought to essentially replicate the intricacy of a pocket watch movement with elaborate exaggeration, the RRCHF is clearly a modern creation, yet imbued with numerous traditional and historical elements. The overall style is now familiar; it echoes the design of the Chrono...

Sunday Morning Showdown: The New Longines Hydroconquest Vs. The Oris Aquis Date Fratello
Longines Hydroconquest Vs Apr 5, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: The New Longines Hydroconquest Vs. The Oris Aquis Date

Welcome to another installment of Sunday Morning Showdown! We hope you have your Sunday breakfast, a cup of coffee, and an open mind at hand because we need your opinion! Today, we’ll pit the latest Longines Hydroconquest against the Oris Aquis. This, then, is a battle of sub-€2,500 dive watches. Both watches come in different […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: The New Longines Hydroconquest Vs. The Oris Aquis Date to read the full article.

Zach Weiss Launches OraOrea with the Coriolis Pointer Date SJX Watches
Apr 3, 2026

Zach Weiss Launches OraOrea with the Coriolis Pointer Date

With the debut of Zach Starr Weiss’s OraOrea comes the introduction of the Coriolis Pointer Date. Having founded Worn & Wound in 2011 and the Windup Watch Fair in 2015, Mr Weiss brings an enthusiast’s eye and and insider’s perspective to his own brand. Initial thoughts An industrial designer before founding Worn & Wound, Brooklyn-based Zach Starr Weiss has put his experience to work with the launch of his own brand, OraOrea, which translates loosely as ‘golden hour.’ The debut model, the Coriolis Pointer Date, features its namesake complication alongside several clever and expensive details, including solid 18k gold hemispheres on the dial, and curved seconds and minutes hands. I got to see the watch ahead of its debut and the quality of the dial finishing is evident. The design is arguably a bit crowded - a time-only variant would help with that - but the three-dimensionality of the design helps keep things interesting. The case checks all the boxes for a go-anywhere, do-anything-style watch, with a 38.5 mm stainless steel case rated to 100 m, despite a standard push/pull crown. The robustness of the case may seem like overkill, but Mr Weiss rightly understands that there’s a segment of passionate collectors for whom 100 m is the bare minimum for a watch intended for daily wear. Intricate dial The dial is notable for its massive laser-cut and hand-polished index, which encircles the dial. This so-called ‘oscillating index’ features alternately spaced R...

First Look - Indie Brand Winnerl Presents its Second Act, the Heart Return Monochrome
Apr 3, 2026

First Look - Indie Brand Winnerl Presents its Second Act, the Heart Return

Reviving the legacy of an illustrious 19th-century Austrian watchmaker, Bernhard Zwinz has breathed new life into the name Winnerl. With this detail-obsessed watchmaker at the helm, each timepiece is meticulously and beautifully handcrafted, reflecting a deep commitment to artisanal watchmaking. Following the discreet success of its first release, the brand returns in 2026 with a second […]

Introducing - The Accessible Earthen Summit Nightfall & Moonglow, A Celestial Evolution in Ceramic Monochrome
Apr 3, 2026

Introducing - The Accessible Earthen Summit Nightfall & Moonglow, A Celestial Evolution in Ceramic

Founded in 2025 in Hong Kong, Earthen Company entered the watchmaking scene, offering a combination of modern materials, vintage-inspired proportions, and accessible pricing. Its inaugural alpine-spirited Summit collection of compact ceramic field watches with oversized crowns and clean, legible dials had a strong visual identity, tools designed for outdoor use. Now, with the new Nightfall […]

Hands-On: Maen Grand Tonneau Ultra-Thin Worn & Wound
Maen Grand Tonneau Ultra-Thin People Apr 3, 2026

Hands-On: Maen Grand Tonneau Ultra-Thin

People are always asking us, “Why are watch reviews always so positive?” It’s a fair question, and definitely a nicer way of saying what I think is actually underneath it, which is “Are you a shill?” While I certainly wouldn’t dream of speaking for any website other than this one, I can say that at Worn & Wound, we review watches that are of interest to us, that we’re likely pre-disposed to liking. Positive reviews come from our enthusiasm not just for a specific watch, but for watches in general. We want to see what’s best in the hobby, and seek to elevate brands and watches that we think are doing interesting work, and that our readers will find of interest. I’d argue that’s not the posture of the average anonymous Instagram commenter, who might be more inclined to tear something down than lift it up.  But sometimes a watch comes across our desk from a brand we like that just doesn’t work, or that seemed more interesting in renders sent via email or DM than in the metal. And that brings us to the Maen Grand Tonneau Ultra-Thin, a watch that on its surface seems like something that I should be really into, but leaves me a little cold when I hold it in hand and strap it on my wrist.  I’ll be upfront here and say at the outset that this is not a bad watch, objectively speaking. It’s not a failure in execution, or the product of shoddy workmanship. I think Maen probably wound up exactly where they wanted to be with the Grand Tonneau, and like other...

First Look - A Champagne Dial for the Louis Moinet 1816 Chronograph Monochrome
Louis Moinet 1816 Chronograph Louis Moinet’s Apr 3, 2026

First Look - A Champagne Dial for the Louis Moinet 1816 Chronograph

Louis Moinet’s 1816 Compteur de Tierces, or “thirds counter”, was originally designed to measure the speed of moving stars. Endowed with a start, stop and reset function and a balance wheel beating at an impressive high frequency of 30Hz or 216,000 vibrations per hour, his novel stopwatch could time events to the 60th of a […]

Introducing: The Streamlined Desder D001 - A Wrist-Worn Sculpture With A Triple-Axis Tourbillon Fratello
Apr 3, 2026

Introducing: The Streamlined Desder D001 - A Wrist-Worn Sculpture With A Triple-Axis Tourbillon

Let me introduce you to Mo Coppoletta and Luca Soprana, founders of the new watch brand Desder. Italian-born Coppoletta, who’s based in London, is best known as a tattoo artist, designer, and art director. He founded the influential London studio The Family Business in 2003, which became a global reference point for high-end tattooing, before […] Visit Introducing: The Streamlined Desder D001 - A Wrist-Worn Sculpture With A Triple-Axis Tourbillon to read the full article.

Introducing - Formex Reef 39.5 Forged Carbon, a new Look for the Brand’s Compact Diver Monochrome
Formex Reef 39.5 Forged Carbon Apr 3, 2026

Introducing - Formex Reef 39.5 Forged Carbon, a new Look for the Brand’s Compact Diver

Founded in Biel/Bienne and revitalised in 2016 under the leadership of Raphaël Granito, Formex is appreciated for its engineering-driven watchmaking, ergonomic case design and modularity. Known at first for its motorsport roots and patented case suspension systems, the brand has gradually defined its identity with the Essence and Reef collections, offering well-executed watches with interesting […]

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Day-Date Alternatives In 2026 Fratello
Rolex Day-Date Alternatives Apr 3, 2026

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Day-Date Alternatives In 2026

Another Friday, another list. This week, we close out our series of lists focused on Rolex alternatives, but we have saved the best for last. The Rolex Day-Date has long been the brand’s flagship model. It’s one of those icons that carved out its unique space in the watch landscape and seems practically impossible to […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Day-Date Alternatives In 2026 to read the full article.

Ferdinand Berthoud, Inverted: The Chronomètre FB 2TV.1 SJX Watches
Chopard s haut de gamme Apr 3, 2026

Ferdinand Berthoud, Inverted: The Chronomètre FB 2TV.1

Ferdinand Berthoud (FB), Chopard’s haut de gamme sub-brand, introduces its first flying tourbillon just weeks before Watches & Wonders. The Mesure du Temps 1787 Chronomètre FB 2TV.1 is exceptional in both quality and price, presenting almost everything of interest on the dial side - chain and fusee included - along with hacking and zero-reset seconds. The dial-side spectacle will be the calling card of the new Mesure du Temps 1787 collection. Initial thoughts The revival of long-dead masters’ names to sell unrelated watches is a practice that invites scepticism - and often deserves it. The Ferdinand Berthoud brand, however, is a different matter. There is nothing cynical about it, and one suspects the man himself wouldn’t mind being associated with some of the finest mechanical watches being made today - in his home town, no less. A different name on the dial, Scheufele perhaps, might still feel more authentic, but that’s a minor quibble with what is otherwise an overwhelmingly high quality watch. The latest take on the brand’s chronometer-inspired formula adds one of my favourite features: a zero-reset seconds hand. Though I prefer the designs of the brand’s past projects, the FB 2TV.1 suggests the team at FB understands what the market wants, and the movement-as-a-dial aesthetic is hot right now. The flying tourbillon is new for the brand, in both technique and aesthetics. Until now the brand’s massive revolving regulators were secreted away on the...