Hodinkee
Introducing: The Zenith Defy Skyline Night Surfer El Primero In Partnership With Our Friends At Time + Tide Is A Sequel Done Right (Live Pics)
From black to grey and a zippy movement to boot, this 200-piece LE is a welcome surprise.
Results for 904L Oystersteel
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Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Obituary: Jörg Bucherer, the King of European Watch Retail
Jörg G. Bucherer, the third generation to run the Bucherer retail chain, passed away on Monday evening at age 87. The news was first reported by Swiss newspapers including Le Temps. His death comes less than three months after agreeing to sell his family business to Rolex in a multi-billion franc move that shocked the entire industry, but secured the future of the company. He led an extraordinary life, being one of the last remaining people to have worked directly with Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, and building a reputation as a man about town. Known for his fast cars and beautiful women in his youth, he was always extremely closely guarded when it came to media appearances. Bucherer took over the business in 1977, and had been at the centre of the industry ever since. Having navigated many turbulent periods in matchmaking, he not only kept the Lucerne-based retailer afloat, but steered it to the very top, with the business now counting over 100 points of sale across Europe and America, making it the biggest seller of Rolex watches anywhere. The historic Bucherer store in Lucerne. Image – Bucherer When Bucherer took the reins from his father, the industry was in turmoil in the aftermath of the Quartz Crisis. That didn’t stop him as he expanded the company from its Swiss base into new territories such as Austria and Germany in 1980s. He would go on to acquire other retailers as he pursued expansion, including Kurz Group in 1989 and Swiss Lion in 2001. The real b...
Worn & Wound
Ming Surprises with What Could Be the Lightest Watches Ever Made
If you spend enough time writing about watches, you’ll eventually be nearly blinded to all of the press releases touting world records of some kind. Sometimes it feels like a month doesn’t go by that a brand isn’t touting a watch that is the thinnest ever, the lightest ever, the most water resistant ever, the most complicated, and various permutations and combinations of all the above. Almost always, these record setters come from big brands, with years of research and untold amounts of historical backing behind them. So it was with considerable interest that we saw a message from Ming earlier this week, advising that they’ve just made the lightest mechanical wristwatches ever. Or, they probably have. A “record” wasn’t exactly claimed, but the watches are really, really light. The LW.01 emerges from their Special Projects Cave, the skunkworks operation that sees Ming doing their most experimental work. The goal here was to simply make the lightest watch they could using the resources available to them, while keeping it wearable and practical in the manner of other Mings. The process took years, but the result is a (possible) record breaker that, somewhat astoundingly, is still immediately recognizable as a Ming first and foremost. With ultrathin and ultralight watches, the process always seems to start with case construction, as this is a component of the watch where mass can most easily be engineered away. The LW.01 forgoes traditional case construction ...
Worn & Wound
Nodus Introduces a Limited Edition Sector Sport with Bronze Accents
One could argue that the core of a modern watch company is a competent sports watch. If that were true, it would be no surprise that LA-based Nodus Watches has really found its stride by building a strong catalog of durable, interesting models under $1,000. The so-called Sector Series encompasses – among others – Dive, GMT, and Pilot’s watches. The foundation of this line is simply called the Sector Sport, and today Nodus is adding a limited Sector Sport in steel and bronze. Based on the platonic ideal of a “sports watch” as it was defined in the mid-century, the Sector philosophy is grounded in two defining tenets: 1) an adaptable midcase amenable to varying finishes and future add-ons and 2) a sector dial demarcated by differences in texture and finishing. Specs-wise it means a 38mm x 12.5mm x 47mm case with 20mm lugs, accompanied by an H-link bracelet that tapers from 20 to 18mm. The bracelet also includes the proprietary Nodus NodeX clasp for on-the-fly adjustments. Inside is the Seiko NH38. While Nodus has historically iterated on the Sport with bold colors like Glacial and Marigold, it is taking a new approach with this bronze and steel reference. The anthracite dial is composed of two brass plates. One is the inner sector where the hour hand neatly terminates; the outer sector is home to gilt PVD-coated hour markers. The hands have the same gilt treatment and, paired with the dial, make for a warm and subdued aesthetic. The most noteworthy update here is t...
Worn & Wound
Windup Watch Shop Alternatives to the Swatch x Blancpain
It’s tricky business finding alternatives to the Swatch x Blancpain Fifty Fathoms; seldom do we see high-low collaborations of this kind in the industry. Indeed the bioceramic dive watch looms large in the minds of both collectors and the mainstream public, and for good reason. While the lightweight colorful dive watch is great fun, however, those who are looking beyond the hype for more substantial dive watches around a similar price point should consider these options here in the Windup Watch Shop. It’s tricky business finding alternatives to the Swatch x Blancpain Fifty Fathoms; seldom do we see high-low collaborations of this kind in the industry. Indeed the bioceramic dive watch looms large in the minds of both collectors and the mainstream public, and for good reason. While the lightweight colorful dive watch is great fun, however, those who are looking beyond the hype for more substantial dive watches around a similar price point should consider these options here in the Windup Watch Shop. The post Windup Watch Shop Alternatives to the Swatch x Blancpain appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
Lookbook: Soda Shop Style Meets Jack Mason’s Dr Pepper GMT
Whether its pairing a classic white tee with jeans and All-Stars, or rocking an an iconic varsity jacket with a midcentury-inspired GMT-soda shop style is all about reveling in timelessness. To bring this vibe to life, we taken Jack Mason’s newest Strat-o-timer GMT: The Dr Pepper®, found the coolest soda fountain diner in town, and prepped three looks that’ll make you want to sip a soda immediately followed by a drag race. Nothing immediately screams a throwback soda shop look like a classic varsity jacket over a white tee. When paired with the Dr Pepper® Strat-o-timer’s 7-row stainless steel bracelet, it gives off that anytime, anywhere vibe. This fits perfectly with the original Dr Pepper slogan and concept that their beverage was ideal for multiple parts of the day, particularly at 10 o’clock, 2 o’clock, and 4 o’clock. The post Lookbook: Soda Shop Style Meets Jack Mason’s Dr Pepper GMT appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Leonardo DiCaprio-backed ID Genève just launched the self-healing Circular C
Leo's latest role isn't in a Scorsese-directed flick, but rather as an investor in eco-oriented watch brand ID Genève.The post Leonardo DiCaprio-backed ID Genève just launched the self-healing Circular C appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Review: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone in Platinum
After its initial introduction 18 years ago, the Lange 1 Time Zone with a platinum case and rhodium-coloured dial has made a comeback with a second-generation model. The revival features the cal. L141.1, which adds a daylight-saving time function to the second time zone. Already one of the most complex world time watches at the time of its launch, the second-generation Lange 1 Time Zone still stands out as one of the most advanced travel watches available today. Initial thoughts This combination of a platinum case and rhodium-coloured dial takes us nearly two decades back in time, as the original model was available in this same livery. It’s heartening to witness this classic pairing return, but now powered by the upgraded cal. L141.1. Most striking is the timeless appeal of this watch. Examining it, I can’t help but think that the design has not aged, a testament to the enduring style of A. Lange & Söhne that is both formal and functional. Its longevity and continued relevance over the years are remarkable. To complement this, it’s worth noting the consistently surprising comfort provided by the relatively large case, which sits effortlessly on the wrist. Unlike typical sporty tool watches, it maintains a classical look and size that complements elegant attire, such as, of course, an airline captain’s suit. However, it’s essential to acknowledge that the readability of its dial under certain light conditions remains a significant challenge. Despite this sligh...
Worn & Wound
MICROMILSPEC is Back with a Watch Made in Collaboration with the Norwegian Air Force
While not necessarily a household name, MICROMILSPEC is well-known in military and law enforcement circles across Norway, the United States, and soon Canada. A Scandinavian brand that’s dedicated to creating performance-tested, long-lasting timepieces built for the specific needs of its customers, MICROMILSPEC’s brand ethos isn’t to sell volume – it’s to become an invaluable tool on the field or during active duty. Because of this, many of MICROMILSPEC’s watches have been bespoke one-off designs for the commissioner’s specific purpose; not necessarily for commercial sale. Crafting these highly specialized pieces has always been the backbone of the brand, but MICROMILSPEC has since started to catch the eye of collectors who want to own one of their watches without, for example, risking their lives or working for an intelligence agency. Because of this, MICROMILSPEC has opened some of their designs to the general public for a limited-edition release. One such watch is the new HERCULES. Built in partnership with the Norwegian Air Force’s 335 Squadron, the HERCULES is dedicated to the aircraft that shares its name. To build a watch that has as much ingenuity and power as the esteemed aircraft, the Norwegian watchmaker worked in conjunction with the Squadron for over a year to exacting specifications. The result is a 100-piece limited edition that’s as technically precise as it is wearable. Every inch of the HERCULES has an intentional – and functional – q...
Deployant
New: Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Triptych with tourbillon
Louis Erard releases yet another triptych with Alain Silberstein in an exclusive 3 watch set with La Semaine Louis, Le Régulateur & Tourbillon Régulateur.
Deployant
Review: The New Louis Vuitton Tambour
Louis Vuitton, along with its watchmaking arm La Fabrique du Temps, redefines the Tambour, as it becomes the brand's first integrated bracelet sports watch.
Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Watches: A Brief History and Overview of the Modern Collection
Zenith SA, a Swiss watchmaker that traces its roots all the way back to 1865, is best known these days for its historic and hugely influential El Primero chronograph caliber, but the company can lay claim to many other horological milestones and accolades as well, some of which might be somewhat less than common knowledge. Did you know, for example, that Zenith has won more chronometry awards than any other watch brand? Or that it was once owned by an electronics company of the same name? Or that it is the only brand that’s allowed to put “Pilot” on a pilot’s watch dial? In this in-depth feature, I explore these and other aspects of Zenith’s fascinating history and also offer a primer on the manufacture’s modern watch collections. Georges-Favre-Jacot and Historic Integration Watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot (above) was a mere 22 years of age when he founded the atelier that would become Zenith in Le Locle, Switzerland in 1865. Favre-Jacot, a contemporary of Swiss modern architecture pioneer Le Corbusier, embraced a similarly modern approach to making watches, taking his cues from the American firms Waltham and Elgin, which had found success by introducing mass production into the traditionally artisanal business. His company, originally called Georges Favre-Jacot & Co., was the first Swiss watch producer to bring the various disciplines of horology under one roof - as opposed to the more common établissage system that most watchmakers used at the time, which h...
SJX Watches
Business News: Only Watch Reveals Details About Financials and Research
After a unnervingly long wait, Only Watch issued a detailed statement explaining its activities and financials in response to allegations on social media about financial improprieties. While some of the allegations were unfounded, some were useful questions that had to be asked. Fortunately, the statement by Only Watch is not only comprehensive but also promises more to come (once the audited statements are prepared by KPMG Monaco in response to a recently promulgated law in the principality where Only Watch is based). More is certainly needed, but for now the response from Only Watch will quiet reasonable observers. Initial thoughts When the accusations about wrongdoings at Only Watch first emerged on social media, I was sceptical because by and large I believe in Only Watch (I even bought one of the Only Watch timepieces several years ago, albeit an inexpensive one). That said, I could see why such questions came about. The event has become extremely high profile and its founder, Luc Pettavino, a celebrity seemingly dressed in over the top jackets all the time. This all unsurprisingly led to criticism. Still, the fundamental purpose of the auction felt like a genuine cause. I did think some of the questions raised on social media were germane. I expected a swift response from Only Watch, but that took what seemed like a long, long time. Now the reply has arrived and it contains sufficient information that I am reassured, as I think most observers will be. Amongst the not...
Revolution
Unveiling the Jacob & Co Opera Godfather Minute Repeater with Alain Schiesser
Join Wei and Alain Schiesser, Co-founder of Le Cercle des Horlogers SA, as they delve into the extraordinary Jacob & Co Opera Godfather Minute Repeater. This exceptional timepiece is a part of the Opera Collection, where the realms of high watchmaking seamlessly blend with the enchanting world of music. The 49mm Opera timepiece stands as […]
Time+Tide
Letting go of a grail: Why I am selling my near-perfect Omega Speedmaster
I never thought these words would come out of my mouth, but I am letting go of one of the holiest grails in my collection, my near-mint Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. If you know me, you’ll know this is one of the most out of character things I have done in all my time collecting … ContinuedThe post Letting go of a grail: Why I am selling my near-perfect Omega Speedmaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Richard Mille’s Time Odyssey: Then and Now | Revo Talks
Join us on an educational journey alongside Constant, where we delve into the world of Richard Mille guided by none other than Wei Koh, the founder of Revolution and an extremely passionate Richard Mille enthusiast, and for good reason. We’ll explore the remarkable evolution of Richard Mille, tracing its trajectory from its inception of the […]
Quill & Pad
The Science of Steel: The Stuff of Cases, Mainsprings, Hairsprings, Pinions, Escapements and the Backbone of Watchmaking
Joshua Munchow talks about steel here, the metal that made the world! Watch cases and other movement components are commonly made from certain stainless steels, 304 and 316L being the most frequent. It also happens that some brands hold exclusive rights to use specific alloys in the production of its watches. Here's what you should know about steel.
Teddy Baldassarre
Wedding Watches: The 10 Best Brands According to Our Instagram Fans
Weddings are an occasion for gift giving, and a fine watch always makes an ideal gift, whether it’s from a parent to a prospective son- or daughter-in-law, a groom to a best man, or exchanged between the betrothed couple in addition to (or in place of) the traditional rings. What are the best wedding watches? We put the question out to our 300,000-plus followers on Instagram (some but not all of them married or engaged) and were overwhelmed by the response. Here we break it down into the top 10 watch brands named in the survey and spotlight some of the specific models that our respondents favored. 1. LONGINES Leading the pack with 25 mentions is Longines, a brand known for making elegant timepieces for both men and ladies and pricing them reasonably. Among the models mentioned specifically are the Master Collection Chronograph, Spirit, Hydroconquest, Flagship Heritage, and Legend Diver. When it comes to Swiss watchmakers, it seems, the venerable maison in bucolic Saint-Imier hits the sweet spot for many prospective brides and grooms. Longines Legend Diver Bronze The Longines Legend Diver is a modern re-issue of a compressor-style dive watch Price: $3,000, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 12.7mm, Lug to Lug: 48.2mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 300m, Movement: Automatic ETA A31.L11 The Longines Legend Diver is a modern re-issue of a compressor-style dive watch it produced in 1960, here with a case made of bronze, a metal historically used in maritime equipment due to i...
Revolution
Unveiling the Jacob & Co | Twin Turbo and Twin Turbo Furious with Alain Schiesser
Join Wei and Alain Schiesser, Co-founder of Le Cercle des Horlogers SA, as they delve into the exquisite world of watchmaking, where the mastery of mechanics meets the passion for automobiles, exemplified by the awe-inspiring Twin Turbo and Twin Turbo Furious timepieces. At the heart of the Twin Turbo’s marvel lies not one but two […]
SJX Watches
Exhibition: Vacheron Constantin Retrograde Displays in Singapore
After having developed its recent offerings centred on the retrograde display, Vacheron Constantin is presently hosting High Watchmaking Retrograde Displays: A Vacheron Constantin Signature in Singapore from now till September 30, 2023. The exhibition chronicles the development of the retrograde complication from its origins in the 19th and early 20th centuries. On display are rare examples of pocket watches and wristwatches from the brand’s collection. These range from the 1930 “Bras en l’Air”, literally “Arms in the Air” (pictured above) featuring a dual retrograde display, to the more contemporary Métiers d’art Savoirs Enluminés Caper in 2015. This latter piece offers a modern interpretation of the complication, with designs from a page from a 12th century medieval manuscript. Also on show are the brand’s latest timepiece offerings that focus on this specific complication, which were initially introduced at Watches & Wonders in March of this year, like the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date. High Watchmaking Retrograde Displays: A Vacheron Constantin Signature is taking place from September 1-30, 2023 at the Vacheron Constantin boutique located at ION Orchard. It is open to the public daily from 10:00 am-8:30 pm. ION Orchard Singapore 2 Orchard Turn, #02-07 Singapore 238801 To register, visit Vacheron-constantin.com. Correction September 23, 2023: The Don Pancho minute repeater is not on shown at the exhibition, however, it is highlighted by...
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar “Darth”
Since its debut in 2021, the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar has been the brand’s flagship pure-play perpetual calendar that combines the trademark Lange 1 design with a sophisticated movement, while doing away with the tourbillon of its bigger brother. The model now gets a new of platinum with a black dial, a combination nicknamed “Darth”, and remains powered by the L021.3. Initial thoughts The Lange 1 perpetual calendar has consistently impressed with its thoughtful design. The asymmetrical yet streamlined dial effortlessly communicates essential information. And because doesn’t have the tourbillon of the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, it is relatively affordable, at least as such things go. As for the new version, it does look good. Lange watches tend to look good with white metal cases and black dials, think Datograph or Zeitwerk, and this is no exception. This is especially considering the model was available only with light coloured dials like salmon or grey. The rest of the watch remains unchanged, so it has all the pros (and cons) of the earlier iterations. While the movement is impressively executed, it is a large watch, particularly since it only has the calendar complication. At almost 42 mm wide and just over 12 mm high, it has dimensions comparable to a sports chronograph. That said, most complicated Lange watches feel over-engineered, so this is typical Lange in many ways. “Darth” The new model retains the dial layout that i...
Hodinkee
Introducing: It's Back – The M.A.D.1 Returns, This Time In Green
Hopefully, the new green color gives some of you the luck of the Irish, because to get one, you'll need it.
Worn & Wound
Join Oris and Worn & Wound for a Washington D.C. Airstream Meetup
Worn & Wound is partnering with Oris for an Airstream event on the latest stop of its journey across the United States. Join us as we take over the nation’s capital for food, drinks, watches, and fun. You’ll have the opportunity to discover and shop the latest Oris novelties, take a selfie with Oris Bear, meet VJ Geronimo, Oris CEO – The Americas, and connect with the Worn & Wound team. Best of all, attendees will also receive a complimentary gift. You’ll have the chance to go hands-on with all kinds of watches from the Oris collection, including some very unique recent releases, such as the brand new Hank Aaron Limited Edition. Special gifts will also be included with any and all purchases. You won’t want to miss this! Sunday, September 10, 2023 2 PM – 6 PM Eastern Hook Hall 3400 Georgia Ave. NW Washington, DC 20010 Click here to RSVP and let us know you plan to attend. Be sure to pass the invite along to your friends! The post Join Oris and Worn & Wound for a Washington D.C. Airstream Meetup appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
The Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 40 Série Atelier V pays tribute to a racing icon
The Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 40 harkens back to the founder’s racing pedigree The green dial Is based on the Porsche 935 he helped to place third in Le Mans 1979 Even as a luxury watch, its 41.5mm titanium case is comfortable, and water-resistant to 120m There are a lot of brands who claim that … ContinuedThe post The Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 40 Série Atelier V pays tribute to a racing icon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Corum Looks Forward (and Back) with the Futuristic Concept Watch
Corum’s latest creation is the Concept Watch, a one-off timepiece that departs from the brand’s current offerings in its futuristic style. For a brand better known for the Golden Bridge and Admiral’s Cup, the Concept Watch is bold, different, and not for everyone. Made of recycled titanium, the case contains a movement with a flying tourbillon and sapphire crystal bridges set against an aventurine base. The movement, however, is a La Joux-Perret calibre that’s been found in Corum watches for several years. Initial thoughts With most of its sports watches being large and ostentatious, it’s good to see the brand shifting towards something more elegant. The Concept Watch is compact at under 40 mm in diameter and relatively restrained in design. While it is more appealing than most of Corum’s recent watches, there are caveats. I am not fond of the case design, which is too reminiscent of the Patek Philippe Nautilus. A round case with apertures that maximises the view of the movement, one similar to that of the Franc Villa FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero, would have made this less derivative. Also, the strap attachment appears awkward, and will probably not make its way into other ways. At the same time, even though the design is a break from the past, the CO374 movement has been employed by Corum for more than a decade now. It is a La Joux-Perret calibre found in various forms across several brands, including the Arnold & Son TES Tourbillon. Notably, Corum debuted a...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The New Automotive-Inspired Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 40
Laurent Ferrier and team are bringing the '70s back, with a touch of Porsche and Le Mans history.
Time+Tide
AGREE OR DISAGREE: Rolex prices will one day be at or under retail – these were your responses…
At the top of the list of brands associated with the unobtanium phenomenon is Rolex. Yes, other brands have this shared insufferable quality of low access to watches at retail, but, these other brands are independents with much smaller production runs. Rolex makes approximately 800,000 to a million watches annually, yet many consumers leave boutiques … ContinuedThe post AGREE OR DISAGREE: Rolex prices will one day be at or under retail – these were your responses… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Louis Erard Debuts an Art Deco Collaboration
Louis Erard gained a cult following collaborations with partners ranging from independent watchmakers to industrial designers. Now, the brand has teamed up with Switzerland-based watch influencer Amr Sindi, better known by his Instagram handle The Horophile. Their project, the Le Petite Seconde Metropolis, draws direct inspiration from Art Deco with its clean, distinctive dial. Initial thoughts Following their recent collaboration at Raketa, it comes as no surprise that Louis Erard chief Manuel Emch (who’s also helping run Raketa) and Mr Sindi have once again united their creative forces. While deviating from the contemporary design accented by Mr Sindi’s trademark purple that characterised his past creations, the trio of timepieces represent a unique interpretation of 1920s style. The watches evoke the era without being remakes of 1920s watches. They are distinctive yet unbranded, enabling the design to be conveyed clearly. Aside from the Art Deco hour numerals, there is absolutely no text on the dial whatsoever. In my view, this exemplifies how watch brands should design a retro watch, rather than simply generating a remake based on archives. While the dial is new, the rest of the watch is identical to the regular production model. That means a relatively thick case, which is the only major shortcoming of the design. The Le Petite Seconde Metropolis is priced at US$2,900, which is roughly in the same price range as the standard version of the model. Although the pr...
Time+Tide
The Longines Master Collection Small Seconds is what happens when a brand listens to enthusiasts
Longines unveils an engraved trio with three different dial colours in three different finishes The watches are downsized from 40mm to 38.5mm, in a move destined to be popular among enthusiasts An azurage-finish petite seconde is courtesy of the silicon hairspring-equipped L893.5 How often do you see a brand new release that immediately captures you? … ContinuedThe post The Longines Master Collection Small Seconds is what happens when a brand listens to enthusiasts appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Hanhart’s Elegant Pioneer Silva is an Exercise in Refined Simplicity
Subtlety will never go out of style and the new Pioneer Silva, from Swiss-German watch brand Hanhart, exemplifies this. With its low-profile design and simple aesthetic, the Silva has a presence without ever veering into the ostentatious. It’s a watch that’s just as comfortable paired with a suit as with jeans and a t-shirt. To accomplish this, Hanhart married modern design trends with classic elements. The watch itself is based on an archival reference, the Kal 36/39, which was reinterpreted for the modern age. Updates have included an uncluttered broad dial with an emphasis on sleek lines and readability. With that, there are still charming nods to Hanhart’s heritage models, including the white dots between numerals and the vintage Hanhart logo that’s recognized on a few Pioneer models. The Pioneer Silva isn’t just a watch that looks good, but functions well, too. The Silva has an automatic movement that runs on a Sellita SW200, offering a 38-hour power reserve. The SW200 can be seen in action through the sapphire glass backing on the Silva, adding another level of eye candy to this watch. As mentioned, the case of this watch has a low profile, making it a great watch for everyday wear. Coming in at just 10mm in height, the 38mm stainless steel case has presence on the wrist without the bulk. With the option of either a black or white dial, and a black calfskin or steel bracelet, Hanhart has embraced the minimalism of this watch to show off the versatility ...