Deployant
Review: IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Monopusher Chronograph
Full review of the IWC Portofino Monopusher Chronograph with hands on commentary and live photographs.
Results for Above the Date Window
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Deployant
Time+Tide
How maturing in my watch collecting journey changed my view on date windows
As he's got deeper into his watch collecting journey, Jamie has found his previously dogmatic defense of date windows starting to weaken.The post How maturing in my watch collecting journey changed my view on date windows appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Date Windows: Embracing Their Functional Beauty With Examples From Grand Seiko, Laurent Ferrier, Oris, And More
As an admittedly vain man, I understand the wristwatch as more than an instrument, embracing its jewelry-like presence. After all, the adage that men are not allowed to wear any other jewelry still rings true, especially when your partner catches another order confirmation pinging on your phone. But to me, functionality is still king, including […] Visit Date Windows: Embracing Their Functional Beauty With Examples From Grand Seiko, Laurent Ferrier, Oris, And More to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Unholy Grail: Why the comically dated TAG Heuer S/el is a true guilty pleasure
No matter how tasteful your watch collection, no matter how stuffed your portfolio is with blue chip stocks like no-date Subs, pre-Moon Speedys, or the perfect Cartier Tank, there’s probably a black sheep lurking somewhere. Your questionable choices. Your dark secrets. The one that’s horribly out of fashion, objectively unattractive, or just plain bizarre. Be … ContinuedThe post Unholy Grail: Why the comically dated TAG Heuer S/el is a true guilty pleasure appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S PICK: Five wacky Day-Dates that show why it’s the most interesting Rolex model
EDITOR’S NOTE: Don’t mess with a classic? We reckon that can be rather unimaginative advice. Iconic watches often earn their status because the bones of their design are stronger enough to absorb a fair amount of experimentation without compromising their identity. And, as this story proves, the Rolex Day-Date is a text-book example. The Rolex … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Five wacky Day-Dates that show why it’s the most interesting Rolex model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Dale is an actual pilot - and he wears a Breitling Navitimer
Today’s entrant into the ‘Every Watch Tells a Story’ hall of fame is Dale. It turns out that Dale has a bit of a thing for pilot’s watches, and for good reason - Dale is a commercial airline pilot. And the pride of his collection is none other than the mighty Breitling Navitimer. In case you’re not … ContinuedThe post Dale is an actual pilot – and he wears a Breitling Navitimer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Biver 'AB' - A New Manually-Wound Release In Steel
What We Know A few weeks ago I got an unexpected invite from Pierre Biver to see the brand's newest watch. Despite any ideas I might have had in my mind, Biver's new watch—just called the "AB"—was not what I expected. Instead of a new, complicated, potentially larger piece, the AB is a response to customer demand, says Biver (the person, not the brand, but kind of the person and the brand in one). After their Automatique was a runaway success in its various forms over the past two years, they resisted the urge to put the proprietary movement in a stainless steel case (as highly requested). Instead, today, they're launching a manually-wound, proprietary new movement with over 100 hours of power reserve, in a smaller steel case and moving the brand forward. The watch measures 38mm by 9.8mm thick, with a 19mm lug width. The case maintains the general hallmarks of Biver's cases, with brushed and polished geometric angular lugs—reminiscent of a Patek 3448 or 3450—but with tweaks to the bezel to change how it looks on the wrist. The dial is a multi-level gold dial, with a grained central texture, 2N gold metallicized indices, chamfered levels, gold hands with hand-finished facets, and an onyx stone-dial ring for the hour and minute track. The watch also comes with Biver's striking, angular bracelet, which now comes with a patented micro-adjust activated by two push buttons. Photo by Mark Kauzlarich. The caliber JCB-004 is developed in collaboration with Le Cercle des Hor...
Time+Tide
FounderFest 2026 has left the stage - here’s how it went down
The doors just closed on our most ambitious event yet; FounderFest. Seven watches across three events in Melbourne, London and NYC.
Monochrome
Introducing - Hamilton Unveils new Khaki Field Model for Call of Duty Modern Warfare 4, In-Game and on the Wrist
When it comes to watch inspirations, automotive and aviation themes have long been part of the game. Video games, however, are catching up. We have already seen retro legends like Donkey Kong and Mario find their way onto dials, Seiko team up with Street Fighter V, and, just a few months ago, Omega brought the […]
Time+Tide
Five Furlan Marri favourites available in the Time+Tide Shop
When it comes to vintage-inspired modern timepieces, especially the dressier ones, Furlan Marri has made a name for itself as a purveyor of great timepieces inspired by the best vintage references of the 20th century. It could be easy to lean into various watch tropes, but Furlan Marri balances a mix of influences while injecting … Continued
Teddy Baldassarre
Hamilton Answers The Call Of Duty With Khaki Field Modern Warfare 4 Edition
Just released by Hamilton is their latest collaboration with a video game title, this time with the Khaki Field Modern Warfare 4 Edition.
Time+Tide
Our new Time+Tide x Furlan Marri Outback Songlines debuts the brand’s first three-link bracelet and more
Launching at FounderFest, meet the Furlan Marri Outback Songlines, with a chocolate dial, hunter caseback and a new three-link bracelet.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
9 Best Watches That Cross the Field, Diver, Pilot, and Dress Divide Today
From compact military-inspired pieces to tougher everyday tool watches, these are the models that proved most versatile in our testing.
Worn & Wound
O&HoraPictor; Unveils the Duet Collection
While there’s often a large net cast over the art of enamel, the craft is actually quite nuanced. Enamel can take many forms outside classic grand feu, from cloisonne to champleve, plique-a-jour, flinque, paillonnee, grisaille, and contre-jour. However, even within traditional grand feu enamel work, there can be variations depending on the surface the enamel is applied to and the type of enamel (or enamels) used – both opaque and transparent. O&HoraPictor; is one of a small handful of brands dedicated to the artistic craft of enameling. Within its catalog, the brand is no stranger to spanning beyond grand feu and into other enamel applications. We see this in O&HoraPictor;’s latest limited edition release, the Duet.Aptly named “Duet,” the model showcases two enamel hues independently on a single dial with the primary color at the center, anchoring the handset, and the other more subtly framing it around the periphery. The metaphor continues further in two of the five editions – Submarine Canyon and Rhapsody – with the interplay between the two key components of the dial: the metal base where the enamel is applied and the enamel itself. Here, the foundation is laid with an engraved silver plate, creating a canvas with texture and depth to bring out the brilliance of the enamel shades. Tedious handwork begins here, requiring thousands of engravings to achieve the desired effect. Then comes the meticulous application of the enamel pigments.The enameling process st...
Monochrome
The ABCs of Time - When and Why Did We Start Measuring Seconds?
The seconds hand was a bit late to the party, as original pocket watches only featured an hour hand – movements were so inaccurate early on that even minute hands weren’t considered. Two key inventions changed the game in the mid-17th century, with one genius behind them. In 1656, Dutch scientist and horologist Christiaan Huygens […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The Grøne Oldenzaal Horologium, a Refined, Hand-Wound, Attainable Dress Watch by The Grönefeld
By now, most of you must be familiar with the so-called Horological brothers, the duo of Dutch indie watchmakers behind Grönefeld and its superb, high-end and lavishly decorated watches. Highly desirable watches for sure, not for every pocket though. This is why, in 2024, Tim and Bart Grönefeld created a new brand named Grøne Oldenzaal, […]
WatchAdvice
Did Longines Give The Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve A Modern Makeover? (Hands-On)
Longines have created a new spin on a heritage design, but have they done enough to give the unique watch a modern kick? Let’s find out! What We Love: A modern but non-generic colour & finish Universal, easy-wearing dimensions Unique heritage-inspired complication What We Don’t: Questionable lume Movement finishing somewhat lacking How new can an ‘old’ watch be? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Heritage revivals have become a huge part of the modern watch industry. Everywhere you look, there’s another release that’s either an exact copy of, or inspired by, a design from a bygone era. While these watches have returned to varying degrees of success, they typically all share one common thread: they put their fingers on the pulse of the watch community to see which past designs have proved wildly popular, then remaster them accordingly. Longines, however, has started to behave a little differently. While the brand has found plenty of success bringing back watches from its vast archive (case in point, the Ultra-Chron) they use them as a celebration of its brand identity, inviting the watch community to celebrate alongside it. That doesn’t mean chasing what’s popular, but rather embracing what makes Longines so distinctive in a sea of sameness. Perhaps the best example of this is the Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve. Inspired by a design from 1959, the watch was brought bac...
WatchRider
Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39: Did Tudor Just Fix the Chronograph’s Biggest Flaw?
For years, the watch-collecting corners of the internet have echoed with the same tragic lament: “The Tudor Black Bay Chrono is too big! It’s too thick! The sides are too flat!” Honestly, the complaining always cracks me up. I wear the 41mm Black Bay Chrono regularly, and as a woman who supposedly falls into the “needs a smaller watch” demographic, I’ve never once felt like I was lugging around a grandfather clock on my wrist. I think the 41mm wears beautifully. But apparently, enough guys shed tears in the comments sections over those few extra millimeters that Tudor finally decided to pass out the tissues and downsize. Let’s talk about the yellow elephant in the room. Enter the Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 (M79310N-0001). If you’re going to shrink a watch, you might as well make it loud enough that people still notice it. Tudor absolutely nailed the visual impact here. The watch has quickly earned the “Bumblebee” nickname thanks to its vibrant matte yellow dial heavily contrasted by two black snailed sub-counters. Complete with Tudor’s signature lumed Snowflake hands, a domed sapphire crystal, and a black anodized aluminum tachymeter bezel, it walks a perfect line between vintage motorsport heritage and modern swagger. While I will defend the bold, chunky stance of the 41mm all day long, I have to give credit where credit is due, the engineering on the 39mm case is undeniably impressive. Tudor didn’t just shave 2mm off the width; they completely ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Timex and Todd Snyder Bring Back the Affordable Marlin Mesh for $199
The Timex Marlin Mesh brings back the Milanese bracelet on the classic 34mm case, now with a quartz movement and a $199 price.
Monochrome
Buying Guide - The Best of Old-Turned-New, with Five of Today’s Finest Retro Watches
It’s common for brands to look back for inspiration for future releases, and some put a lot of effort into it. It’s not just about taking the shape of an hour marker or a hand and putting it into an entirely new design. No, it’s more than that, as multiple brands revive past designs almost […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Watches in Space: A Timeline of Milestones, From the 1960s to Today
How much do you really know about the watches that have been to outer space? Timekeeping has always been an essential element of space exploration, and the shared history of both pursuits has been a fascinating one, with milestones that go far beyond that quintessential moment that an Omega Speedmaster landed on the mo
Time+Tide
Seiko, Wind Vintage, and Rowing Blazers team up for their fourth collaboration
Seiko, Wind Vintage, and Rowing Blazers team up for their 4th collaboration, with a 38mm green-dialled SRPM21 and 42mm blue-dialled SRPM19.
Worn & Wound
Brew Introduces the Metric Copper, their Latest Manually Wound Watch
Is there a brand that more completely blurs the line between the definition of “microbrand” and “independent brand” than Brew? It depends, of course, on how you define each term. If a brand needs to exist in the haute horlogerie space and craft movements or other components from scratch in an artisanal way to be considered “independent,” then Brew will probably never qualify under those terms. But if your criteria is an intentional, well defined point of view on watchmaking with a clear, instantly recognizable design language, all executed according to the singular creative vision of the brand’s founder, Brew easily fits. I’ve never been one to see microbrand as a pejorative or diminishing label, but in Brew’s case I might argue that it doesn’t necessarily reflect the brand’s growth over the last decade, and the widespread recognition and popularity they’ve found outside of the enthusiast space. Importantly, Brew continues to find interesting ways to iterate on the themes established since the brand’s founding by Jonathan Ferrer, the founder and designer behind the brand. It would be easy for Brew to simply pump out new colorways for successful models, but instead they’ve taken steps (sometimes, admittedly, slower than some collectors and enthusiasts would like) to gradually expand what people think of when they consider what Brew actually is. To that end, their latest watch is a new version of their manually wound Metric (with a Swiss movemen...
WatchAdvice
Did Jaeger-LeCoultre Perfect The Integrated Bracelet Watch? (Hands On)
Jaeger-LeCoultre have finally entered the integrated bracelet watch space, but has the long wait been worth it? Let’s find out! What We Love: That bracelet – perfection! Elegantly reinterpreted design language Surprisingly value-driven for Jaeger-LeCoultre What We Don’t: Lacking embellishments on the dial & bezel No lume – an interesting choice… Is Jaeger-LeCoultre late to the party? Overall Rating: 9.25/10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 10/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 The integrated bracelet sports watch is emblematic of the current watch landscape. Bridging the gap between utility and jewellery, it has become the go-to design language for brands at every price point. From entry-level and middle-market players like Tissot and Raymond Weil, all the way to the upper echelons of Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin, the integrated bracelet design has emerged as the industry’s defining modern silhouette. Conversely, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s identity is rooted in tradition and historical inspiration. Flagship models like the Reverso and Master Control draw upon the brand’s early Art Deco influences, using them as the foundation for their designs. Cementing its reputation as the ‘watchmaker’s watchmaker’, this steadfast commitment to horological heritage has earned the brand a devoted following among enthusiasts worldwide. But reliance on heritage is a double-edged sword. Many collectors have long argued that Jaeger-LeCoultre’s greatest c...
Monochrome
Buying Guide - The Joy of the Snap, With 5 of Today’s Finest Retrograde Watches
I’ve always been a big fan of watches that have something moving on the dial, other than the smooth and consistent running of hour, minute and second hands. Whether it’s a dial-mounted balance wheel, a tourbillon escapement or even a winding rotor, I just love to see some type of action that goes beyond pure […]
SJX Watches
Seiko’s New Marinemaster Gives the People What They Want
Less than two years out from its 2024 relaunch, Seiko refreshes its flagship dive watch with the new Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver’s Watch HBF001 and its limited edition counterpart, the HBF002. Both models feature a ceramic bezel, longer power reserve, better promised timekeeping, and a much-requested tool-less micro-adjust clasp - tangible upgrades that justify a near 25% premium over the previous generation. The regular production model launches alongside a more flamboyant 1,000-piece limited edition designed in collaboration with the Japan Agency for Marine-Earth Science and Technology (JAMSTEC). Initial thoughts Seiko relaunched the Marinemaster brand three years ago with an unexpected trio of compact skin-divers. This was followed by a return to form the following year with a pair of 300 m Hi-Beat Diver-inspired models that dispensed with the “Professional” branding, front-loading case construction, and helium impermeability that distinguished Marinemasters of the past, but offered a more compact 42 mm size and a much improved bracelet. However, it still used the same stamped clasp body found on entry-level divers, just with an upgraded swing arm, and relied on the aging cal. 8L35 movement while Seiko rolled out the improved cal. 8L45 in the similarly priced King Seiko Vanac. The new HBF001 solves all of those problems, and introduces only a few new ones. Given the similarity to the SLA079, Seiko clearly felt the need for unambiguous differentiatio...
Deployant
Review: the new Orient Star M34 F8 Skeleton Hand Wound
Orient Star sent us a loaner for the new M34 F8 Skeleton Hand Winding model. Here is our hands-on review after a month on the wrist.
Monochrome
Buying Guide - The Renaissance of the Jumping Hour Watch, With Six of Today’s Finest
Although it was never really gone, there seems to be a renaissance of the Jumping Hour, or Heures Sautante complication, and we’re quite delighted about this. There’s an interesting convergence in jump hour watches: the display is often simpler than a watch with central hands, but the mechanism behind it is quite challenging! Energy needs […]
Worn & Wound
Ruhla: The East German Watch Brand That Went to Space
For decades now, watch collectors have become enamored with the significance, popularity, and (perhaps most importantly) the absurd affordability of Soviet-era watches. There’s the ingenious Vostok Amphibia dive watch; the various Poljot and Strela chronographs vital to the Russian space program; and the minimalist, glossy-white Raketa Big Zero that signified “the end of history.” What’s lesser known are the timepieces from another part of the Iron Curtain-East Germany, which once encompassed two of the most significant areas of the historic watch industry. Today we associate German watches with the town of Glashütte, where Walter Lange set up a watchmaking school in 1841 and evolved it into one of the great horological houses. Meanwhile, about 300 kilometers to the west is the town of Ruhla. Like Glashütte, Ruhla was also known for metal mining and a tradition of blacksmithing and metalworking. After World War II, it also happened to fall into the Soviet occupation zone, even though it was as far west as one could get. Perhaps it was always fated for this. Image via Ostalgie-Ruhla: Watches of the GDR Both sides faced the evolution of pocket watches to wristwatches, on opposite sides of the World Wars. After 1945, the watch factories in Glashütte and Ruhla were reorganized into publicly-owned enterprises-having endured reparations back to Moscow (to jump-start the USSR’s own watch industry) and the general devastation of the war. Glashütte was a mor...
Monochrome
Just Because - The Best on the Back, Seven More Watches with Drop-Dead Gorgeous Movements
Continuing on from last week’s Just Because story showcasing a selection of the most tantalising backsides, we revisit the topic to show you some more of the finest movements we’ve seen in our year-round watch journey. We bring together watches from indies, as well as established brands, for the sheer joy of looking at the […]