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Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas Self-Winding in Pink Gold and Blue SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Sep 9, 2020

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas Self-Winding in Pink Gold and Blue

Relaunched in 2016 after a major revamp, Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas luxury-sports watch has since been expanded to include various complications, most notably the recent ultra-thin, skeleton perpetual calendar. The mix of a pink gold case and blue dial has been used extensive throughout the line, primarily on complicated models, but the fashionable combination has now been applied to the base model with the Overseas Self-winding in Pink Gold and Blue. Initial thoughts Blue dials have become the archetype for the luxury-sports watch, so the new watch is sticking to a well-established formula. The dial on the new Overseas is quite captivating, largely owing to the use of a brighter blue than usual. Also familiar is the combination of a blue dial and pink gold case, which creates a rich yet sporty look. The combination would be arguably be more appealing if it were applied to the ultra-thin model, which was once in the catalogue but is temporarily discontinued. Priced at a little over US$46,000, the Overseas in pink gold is a contestant in a highly competitive arena, with the primary rivals being the similarly-priced – but far more difficult to obtain – Nautilus and Royal Oak. The two rivals have a slightly longer history, but all of the watches offer similar value in terms of intrinsic quality; the Overseas is very good at what it does. Refined and modern The Overseas Self-Winding has all of the details that characterise the 2016 redesign that resulted in a cleane...

Instagram macro photography sensation @Horomariobro joins us to explain his most popular posts, starting with Lang & Heyne Time+Tide
Lang & Heyne Sep 8, 2020

Instagram macro photography sensation @Horomariobro joins us to explain his most popular posts, starting with Lang & Heyne

There is an endless succession of fads, curiosities and sensations on social media. @horomariobro is not one of them. And if you need to stop now and follow him, we’ll forgive you. His extraordinary macro photography and videography, coupled with insightful commentary on what his lens has captured, has hit Instagram with the force of a revelation. When it comes … ContinuedThe post Instagram macro photography sensation @Horomariobro joins us to explain his most popular posts, starting with Lang & Heyne appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Geneva Watch Days 2020 Round Table Discussion: What We Liked, What We Didn’t Like, And What We’d Buy From The Watches Presented At This COVID-19-Friendly Fair (Warning: Photo Fest!) Quill & Pad
Sep 3, 2020

Geneva Watch Days 2020 Round Table Discussion: What We Liked, What We Didn’t Like, And What We’d Buy From The Watches Presented At This COVID-19-Friendly Fair (Warning: Photo Fest!)

Watching the news for spiking virus cases, with Geneva rapidly becoming Switzerland’s new hotspot, and deciding by the minute whether we would attend, three of our team members took the plunge and traveled to Geneva to experience the new watches first-hand. Here are our thoughts on the busy, “socially distanced” Geneva Watch Days, including our favorites, the watch we disliked the most, and what we would buy!

On Scene: Geneva Watch Days 2020 SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux MB&F; Maurice Lacroix Louis Aug 31, 2020

On Scene: Geneva Watch Days 2020

Twenty-twenty will remain as a most peculiar year for the world as well as for trade fairs. Having taken place August 26-29,Geneva Watch Days (GWD) might be the only physical show the watch industry will see this year, at least in Europe. How did it fare? Was it a success for the brands, media, and public? Here is an overview of the atmosphere. After the demise of Baselworld and the rescheduling of Watches & Wonders to Shanghai (will it really happen?), GWD was a ray of light in the dark times the watch community was experiencing. First mooted by Jean-Christophe Babin, chief executive of Bulgari, and a few other watch brands, GWD quickly grew as many brands hopped on the bandwagon, hoping to salvage what already looked like an annus horribilis. “Phygital” is the new normal More than 20 brands were showing during the four days of GWD, which was a series of exhibitions and events at venues across Geneva, rather than being concentrated in a large hall as the traditional fairs are. Most brands were part of GWD itself – Artya, Breitling, Bulgari, Bovet, De Bethune, Czapek, Ferdinand Berthoud, H.Moser & Cie., Gerald Genta, Girard-Perregaux, MB&F;, Maurice Lacroix, Louis Moinet, Ulysse Nardin, and Urwerk. But the official GWD exhibitors were accompanied by an array of independent brands more than happy to share a common audience. Carl F. Bucherer tagged along by presenting its novelties at the Bucherer store in Geneva, while Le Salon des Horlogers, a small, cosy store i...

Tudor Introduces the Royal (Including the Royal Day-Date) SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Jul 28, 2020

Tudor Introduces the Royal (Including the Royal Day-Date)

Not long after Tudor unveiled the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue – a well priced and solid albeit slightly predictable launch – the brand quietly announced something more surprising – the Tudor Royal. Initially available only in four Asian markets, but now available worldwide starting November 2020, the Royal revives a model name last used several decades ago and applies it to an affordable watch with an integrated bracelet that has a retro, 1970s feel. Initial thoughts The Royal successfully combines various elements from past Tudor watches, with the exception of the dial, which looks a bit uninspired. The integrated bracelet and case brings to mind models of the 1970s, like the Tudor Ranger for instance, while the alternating fluted-and-polished bezel has been used on various models, including the fairly recent Tudor Classic. But the dial is plain, though it was likely designed to appeal to an audience that wants an obviously classical dial with Roman numerals. I would have liked it with a more modern dial, but nevertheless the value proposition is clear. For someone who wants a solid watch that doesn’t look like a diving instrument, the Royal is an excellent buy. With the base model priced a bit over US$2,000, the Royal is – like nearly all Tudor watches – excellent value for money given the high level of fit and finish of the external parts, which are likely the best in the price range. The movements inside are either Sellita or ETA calibres, which are no...

Grand Seiko SBGM221 review WatchAdvice
Grand Seiko SBGM221 review Jul 16, 2020

Grand Seiko SBGM221 review

The nature of time.  At first glance, the phrase reads as if some form of pseudo philosophical jargon, the kind of slogan born in the Grand Seiko PR departments internship program. That is, until you hold a Grand Seiko in your hands, until you feel the piece and experience the brands physical manifestation of their philosophy. For the past week or so, I have been taking a look at the Grand Seiko SBGM221 GMT. A watch from the Elegance line of Grand Seiko, and for that week I have found myself both enamoured and underwhelmed by the nature of this timepiece. As a brand, Grand Seiko prides itself in their craftsmanship, they have been heralded for the famed Ziratsu polish, and admired for the intricacy and complexity of their dials. So it should be noted right away, the finishing and construction of the SBGM221 is first class. The watch has clearly been held to a very high standard during production, nothing is out of place, nothing is even remotely undercooked. The SBGM221 spans a precise 39.5mm in diameter by an equally precise 13.7mm thick. Lug to lug the watch measures 46.3mm, this is achieved by the use of dramatically yet elegantly down curving lugs which hug the piece on to your wrist. I have a wrist size of 17.5cm and found the piece was right in the sweet spot of comfort for me personally, the watch could comfortably be worn down to as little as 15cm due primarily to the curvature of the lugs.  The case of the SBGM221 is where I found the most wonder within the watc...

VIDEO: It’s part 3/3 of (pretend) Baselworld 2020, buckle up for 40 minutes of Seiko, Grand Seiko and Chris Hemsworth from his home in Byron Bay Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Jun 12, 2020

VIDEO: It’s part 3/3 of (pretend) Baselworld 2020, buckle up for 40 minutes of Seiko, Grand Seiko and Chris Hemsworth from his home in Byron Bay

Well, it’s been almost better than the real thing, and certainly as epic in terms of the length of the videos, but it’s over – it’s part 3 of 3 of our Home Delivery Watch Fair Basel Edition! And to finish, we’re doing what we do at the end of all watch fairs. A list. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: It’s part 3/3 of (pretend) Baselworld 2020, buckle up for 40 minutes of Seiko, Grand Seiko and Chris Hemsworth from his home in Byron Bay appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Purple reign, purple reign: Zenith Defy 21 Ultraviolet, a high-frequency colour for a high-frequency chrono Time+Tide
Zenith Defy 21 Ultraviolet Jun 1, 2020

Purple reign, purple reign: Zenith Defy 21 Ultraviolet, a high-frequency colour for a high-frequency chrono

Watch press releases are guilty of purple prose on a daily basis. But you can forgive Zenith a poetic, purple turn of phrase or two here, because what they have brought together in the Defy 21 Ultraviolet – which is the highest frequency colour with a high frequency chronograph, able to measure time to 1/100th … ContinuedThe post Purple reign, purple reign: Zenith Defy 21 Ultraviolet, a high-frequency colour for a high-frequency chrono appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Geneva Watch Days to Take Place August 2020 SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux H Moser & Cie May 28, 2020

Geneva Watch Days to Take Place August 2020

First scheduled for April 2020 to coincide with the twin events Baselworld and Watches & Wonders – how the world of watch fairs changed since then – Geneva Watch Days was postponed to August 2020 after life was halted by the COVID-19 pandemic. But now the event has been confirmed for late August 2020, making it the only “multi-brand watch event in Switzerland” according to its organisers. With eight brands taking part, and perhaps more to come, Geneva Watch Days will be made up of a series of separate events across Geneva – with the central reception desk at the lakeside Four Seasons Hotel – with each brand essentially doing its own thing. Only a handful of evening events will see all the attendees gather, but only as far as Swiss government’s public health regulations allow. But in many respects the event aims to be similar to Baselworld, being catered for the trade – namely retailers and press – rather than the public. Visitors have to register in advance, as well as make appointments with brands to see the latest watches. Bulgari, Breitling, De Bethune, Gerald Genta, Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser & Cie., MB&F;, Ulysse Nardin, and Urwerk have all confirmed their participation at Geneva Watch Days. The event will take place August 26-29, 2020, at various locations across Geneva. To register as an attendee, visit Gva-watch-days.com.  

The liquid depth of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin with onyx dial is worth travelling to Japan for Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet s Royal Oak Jumbo May 18, 2020

The liquid depth of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin with onyx dial is worth travelling to Japan for

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is one of the most well-known watches in the world, but there are some references within the family that remain relatively undiscovered. While they are extremely rare, Royal Oaks with stone dials are as beautiful as you would imagine from the Le Brassus-based brand, with lapis lazuli and various other … ContinuedThe post The liquid depth of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin with onyx dial is worth travelling to Japan for appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The hidden party trick that makes the Jaeger‑LeCoultre Master Control Calendar a (relatively) accessible work of art Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Apr 27, 2020

The hidden party trick that makes the Jaeger‑LeCoultre Master Control Calendar a (relatively) accessible work of art

The thing about understated magnificence is that, at first glance, it’s often overlooked. And then it happens. The “why-Miss-Jones-without-your-glasses-you’re-beautiful” moment. Suddenly noticed, the full force of its charm slaps you sharply in the face, to leave you genuflecting with slack-jawed wonder and a slightly goofy smile. This is how I feel about the just-released Jaeger‑LeCoultre … ContinuedThe post The hidden party trick that makes the Jaeger‑LeCoultre Master Control Calendar a (relatively) accessible work of art appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Andrew’s 5 early favourites from Watches & Wonders 2020, inc. Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin and a watch named for us! Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Apr 25, 2020

Andrew’s 5 early favourites from Watches & Wonders 2020, inc. Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin and a watch named for us!

It was all a bit mad, really. Trying to film an hour-long video that recaps 30-ish new watches, with research consisting of poring over various screens to take in the details of each watch ahead of the shoot. Then wrangling assets, and ringing in friends on Zoom (thank you Sandra, Nick and Christoph!), and achieving … ContinuedThe post Andrew’s 5 early favourites from Watches & Wonders 2020, inc. Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin and a watch named for us! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: We are dropping a feature length virtual watch fair video on YouTube. Dress code: clothing optional   Time+Tide
Apr 23, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: We are dropping a feature length virtual watch fair video on YouTube. Dress code: clothing optional  

We don’t want to cry poor, because boy have we had some good times over the years. But the hidden thing about watch fairs is that they’re utterly exhausting. Especially when you travel for over 24 hours to get to them. Somehow, I have managed to re-create this effect without leaving Australia. Because, wait for it, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: We are dropping a feature length virtual watch fair video on YouTube. Dress code: clothing optional   appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breitling (Re)Introduces the Chronomat with Rouleaux Bracelet SJX Watches
Breitling Re)Introduces Apr 16, 2020

Breitling (Re)Introduces the Chronomat with Rouleaux Bracelet

One of the most fashionable watches of the late 1980s and 1990s was the Breitling Chronomat with the distinctive Rouleaux bracelet, specifically the two-tone, steel-and-yellow-gold model with a dark blue dial. The watch of choice for assorted air force squadrons, the Chronomat was also spotted on major Hollywood stars of the era, most prominently Jerry Seinfeld and Bruce Willis. Breitling’s supercharged success after the Quartz Crisis – having been rescued by Swiss entrepreneur Ernest Schneider – was largely down to the Chronomat. Now the Chronomat on the Rouleaux bracelet is making its comeback, after having been discontinued several years ago. Abandoning the styling of recent, unsuccessful facelifts, the new Chronomat B01 42 returns with a tightly-executed design that incorporates several elements of the 1990s classic. A historic hit Launched to mark the 100th anniversary of Breitling in 1984, the Chronomat marked the brand’s return to mechanical watches. In 1979, the late Ernest Schneider took over an ailing Breitling, which until was then making mostly quartz watches with a military flavour. Having delivered the inaugural version of the Chronomat to members of Frecce Tricolori, the aerobatic team of the Italian air force, Schneider had a hit on his hands once the Chronomat was sold to the public. A page from the 1987 Breitling catalogue showing several versions of the Chronomat Though it had the same name as a vintage Breitling chronograph, the Chronomat l...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: No watches for you 2020 says Patek, while Sheeran and Mayer tie 2-2 in the polls! Time+Tide
Apr 2, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: No watches for you 2020 says Patek, while Sheeran and Mayer tie 2-2 in the polls!

Well, what else can possibly happen in this beleaguered watch industry of ours? Fairs are cancelled. Roadshows are roadblocked. Even events are a sweet, champagne-flavoured memory. What about brands not releasing watches at all? And what if a brand that would have ordinarily been the latest of adopters when it comes to e-commerce was suddenly available … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: No watches for you 2020 says Patek, while Sheeran and Mayer tie 2-2 in the polls! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In the Eye of the Storm – A Letter From Geneva SJX Watches
Rolex which just closed all Mar 17, 2020

In the Eye of the Storm – A Letter From Geneva

Switzerland has declared a state of emergency as a result of the COVID-19 coronavirus. Almost everything is closed, including schools, shops, and restaurants, with only businesses offering the basic necessities, like banks and supermarkets, being allowed to open. There is bad news from Switzerland’s neighbours as well; the virus has spread fast in Italy. A recent poll showed that only 8% of the Swiss population feel they are in great danger. I can assure you that 100% of watch brands are feeling the pressure. Many watch factories, particularly the privately-held brands, have shut down completely or are about to. That includes Rolex, which just closed all its facilities for two weeks starting March 17. Watch sales are falling all around the world, with some brands suffering drops of 30-40% in February, and duty-free sales – which are substantial for the watch industry – falling by up to 90% in major airports. We have seen many crises, but this is unprecedented. But the biggest blow to the industry so far – the cancellation of the major watch fairs, Watches & Wonders (W&W;) and Baselworld. Even though very little is actually sold at the fairs, they were universal events that brought everyone together, almost like an annual reunion of old friends (and competitors). The fairs were a major, major part of the larger imagination, so the cancellations feel like a massive blow for everyone in the industry. The accelerating fallout First, the timeline of the virus’ i...

Urwerk Introduces the UR-111C Two-Tone SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Mar 4, 2020

Urwerk Introduces the UR-111C Two-Tone

Two years ago, Urwerk unveiled the UR-111C, inspired by the UR-CC1 King Cobra of 2009, which was itself based on an experimental watch built by watchmaker Louis Cottier and jeweller Gilbert Albert for Patek Philippe in 1959. Displaying the time in a linear fashion, the UR-111C marked a departure from the wandering-hour satellite indication that has become the hallmark of Urwerk’s aggressively futuristic watches. Having already presented four variants of the watch in various finishes, as well as an engraved unique piece, the brand has now unveiled the UR-111C Two-Tone, featuring a case that combines a black coating with brushed and polished steel. The central portion of the case is executed in brushed steel, flanked by black-coated ends that close off the tube-like central portion. The use of different finishes accentuates the architecture of the case, drawing attention to its centre, which contains the key functions, including the time display and roller-style crown. Cosmetics aside, the UR-111C Two-Tone is otherwise identical to the earlier versions. At 42 mm by 46 mm and 15 mm high at its thickest point, it is by no means a small watch but the curvature of the case ensures it sits flat and comfortably on the wrist. Despite its complex design, time is presented in a fairly straightforward manner with three rounded sapphire windows located at the front edge of the case to facilitate better readability while driving. The jumping hours and progressive minutes are displaye...