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Geneva Watch Days 2026: the 10 releases worth knowing so far

From a chronograph-free Zenith El Primero to a €390,000 Gerald Genta minute repeater, ten of the watches that actually landed at Geneva Watch Days 2026.

Opinion: Why Every Parent Needs a Tool Watch Worn & Wound
Citizen or something similar readily May 17, 2023

Opinion: Why Every Parent Needs a Tool Watch

Last week my son was pretending to be a wolf in the kitchen (as four-year-olds do). Inevitably, he face-planted on the tile floor and suffered a bloody snout. As I scooped up my wounded canine, blood poured down my arm, shoulder to hand.  I wear a dive watch most days, and this day was no exception. After Googling “How to stop a bloody nose,” I rotated the count-up bezel and prepared to pinch both nostrils shut for 10 minutes. The usually crisp bezel action felt… sticky. I looked down to realize bodily fluids had covered my watch, collecting on every textured surface: the depressed markers on the modified bezel, the crown ridges, and between bracelet links.  With only one free arm, I did not dare risk opening the nasal floodgates to remove my watch. After the minute hand safely crossed the stained 10-minute marker, I gave my watch a quick bath in the sink. It thanked me for the brief excitement and continued its primary function of keeping time until the next time it would be called to action, likely in the near future. After all, kids are gross. My watches are accustomed to poorly aimed sneezes and spilled glasses of milk. PSA: never buy a used watch from me. Prior to 2020, I wore dress watches to a shared office. Usually a time-only Citizen or something similar readily available at the local mall. As a bearded guy with mop of unruly hair, a shiny 38mm dress watch was my lazy attempt to look the part. This self-imposed pressure dissipated with the sudden shift to...

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph “End of Days” 43 mm SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Apr 18, 2023

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph “End of Days” 43 mm

Having already unveiled a slew of watches ranging from the uber-impressive Universelle grand complication to a compact Royal Oak with a turquoise stone dial, Audemars Piguet (AP) is also marking the 30th anniversary of the Royal Oak Offshore. The commemorative editions started with the brand dropping the all-ceramic version of the original designed by Emmanuel Gueit. And they continue with the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph “End of Days” 43 mm, a tribute to the watch worn by Arnold Schwarzenegger in the 1999 film that was the brand’s first celebrity limited edition. Initial thoughts From the onset, it is clear this is not a remake. Instead, AP has restyled the Offshore 43 mm, combining the black-and-yellow livery of the original “End of Days” with an all-ceramic case. The result is a good looking sports chronograph that brings with it some of the original’s nostalgia – the original “EOD” was one of the hottest limited editions of its era. The new “End of Days” is a massive upgrade from the original in terms of materials and finish. The ceramic case is far more robust than the original’s black-coated steel, while the movement is now a sophisticated in-house calibre. But all that comes with a big price tag. At US$60,300, the new “End of Days” costs almost double its titanium counterparts. The price premium for ceramic is pretty standard across the AP lineup, so while it is expected it is still substantial. At the same time, the new “End of Days...

Previously On: Watches & Wonders Geneva. Everything you need to get up to speed Time+Tide
Ming platforms there Mar 21, 2023

Previously On: Watches & Wonders Geneva. Everything you need to get up to speed

I do not know about you guys, but I watch a fair bit of television and with so many shows and streaming platforms there is more content than ever before. But, whilst juggling all the different plot lines and narratives, nothing ticks me off more, at least in regard to TV, then when a series … ContinuedThe post Previously On: Watches & Wonders Geneva. Everything you need to get up to speed appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Cyrus Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon Sapphire is a unique watch inspired by Leonardo Da Vinci Time+Tide
Mar 12, 2023

The Cyrus Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon Sapphire is a unique watch inspired by Leonardo Da Vinci

The Cyrus Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon Sapphire features a golden bridge inspired by a design of Leonardo Da Vinci The vertical tourbillon placement is inspired by traditional pocket watches. It’s a limited edition of 10 pieces, celebrating the 10th anniversary of Cyrus. My last exposure to the Swiss independent luxury brand Cyrus Genéve was the Klepcys DICE Racing … ContinuedThe post The Cyrus Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon Sapphire is a unique watch inspired by Leonardo Da Vinci appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watch Sizes vs. Wrist Sizes: What’s the Right Size for You? Teddy Baldassarre
Casio nally Feb 15, 2023

Watch Sizes vs. Wrist Sizes: What’s the Right Size for You?

One of the most important factors one considers when choosing a new watch is the watch's size - as in, its appropriateness relative to the size of one's own wrist as well as the general statement that it's making on said wrist. Trying watches on before buying them is, of course, the easiest and most sensible way to determine these factors, but when you're buying watches online, like so many of us are these days, the eyeballing and hands-on experience must give way to some carefully conducted research instead. Here we pose and answer (to the best of our knowledge and experience) some of the questions a prospective online watch purchaser is likely to have regarding watch sizes and wrist sizes.  What watch size is right for my wrist? While there are obviously some practical calculations that you can make, it all comes down to comfort and personal style. Some people with very slender wrists like to rock a big, attention-grabbing timepiece, and occasionally a linebacker type with thicker forearms might prefer to keep it more subtle with a smaller watch that hides under a sleeve. Acknowledging that these tend to be the outliers, however, most watch wearers will want some aesthetic harmony between their watch size and wrist size, which means that you’ll want to get an accurate idea of both actual measurements. This is particularly important if you’re buying a watch online without actually physically trying it on. You can measure your wrist size easily by wrapping a ...

HANDS-ON: The Tusenö Windseeker is a handsome watch with 1970s swagger Time+Tide
Feb 12, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Tusenö Windseeker is a handsome watch with 1970s swagger

These days it’s not as impressive as it once was to have a successfully funded Kickstarter campaign. If you have a watch with an original design that offers good value for money, then you’ve got a great chance of hitting your goal. What’s not as easy to do is become your country’s most funded watch … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Tusenö Windseeker is a handsome watch with 1970s swagger appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

This new Gerald Genta watch displays Mickey Mouse playing football ahead of the World Cup Time+Tide
Bulgari revived Nov 18, 2022

This new Gerald Genta watch displays Mickey Mouse playing football ahead of the World Cup

Gerald Genta Disney watches are über collectable these days. So when Gerald Genta, owned by Bulgari, revived the collection with a new Mickey Mouse “Smiley” watch last year, the 150-piece limited edition sold out in the snap of a finger. Well, for those who may have missed out, Mickey is back ahead of the FIFA … ContinuedThe post This new Gerald Genta watch displays Mickey Mouse playing football ahead of the World Cup appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why you should pay more attention to the Baume & Mercier Riviera Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Riviera How does one Sep 16, 2022

Why you should pay more attention to the Baume & Mercier Riviera

How does one of the older brands around stay relevant throughout the years, you may find yourself asking. Since their inception in 1830, Baume & Mercier have done it all – Art Deco, unique shapes, chronographs, and, in the 1970s, the Riviera – an integrated-bracelet sports watch. Today, as part of the Richemont group, they’ve … ContinuedThe post Why you should pay more attention to the Baume & Mercier Riviera appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Patek Philippe Acquires Stakes in Geneva Gem-Setting Giant SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Acquires Stakes Sep 14, 2022

Business News: Patek Philippe Acquires Stakes in Geneva Gem-Setting Giant

Little know outside the industry but a key supplier to the biggest watch brands, Salanitro S.A. is Switzerland’s biggest gem-setting and jewellery specialist catering to watchmakers. Owned by its namesake founder until now, Salanitro now counts Patek Philippe as a shareholder. Founded three decades ago by Pierre Salanitro, the company is located a Geneva suburb not far from Rolex headquarters. A discreet but well-connected individual, Mr Salanitro built his company both organically and through acquisitions, creating an enterprise that’s the preeminent jewellery and gem-setting specialist for the watch industry. Today Salanitro far exceeds the competition in scale with annual revenue in the high nine figures and over 230 employees, more than half of them gem-setters. The company covers all the bases when it comes to jewelled watches: it supplies, cuts, and sets gemstones, and also produces components with the three dozen CNC mills on its premises. Gem-setters at work in Salanitro’s facility. Image – Salanitro The art of gem-setting is a manual process that requires deft hands. Image – Salanitro Mr Salanitro’s three children have no involvement in the business, explaining his desire to seek a strategic investor.  “I am very proud and delighted that Patek Philippe has acquired a stake in my company,” says Mr Salanitro, “[The brand is] the ideal partner for securing the firm’s future… [and] continue our activities and guarantee jobs beyond generations....

Did Grand Seiko just give us the perfect two-watch collection? Time+Tide
Grand Seiko just give us Aug 17, 2022

Did Grand Seiko just give us the perfect two-watch collection?

A few days ago, as I sat in front of my watch box, a familiar thought crossed my mind. One I’ve already shared with you all before. And that’s the feeling that I own too many watches. Some may consider this a random thought but when 10 watches are staring back at you, it’s not … ContinuedThe post Did Grand Seiko just give us the perfect two-watch collection? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Every Watch Tells A Story: “As soon as I saw it I thought, ‘Wow! I have to have that watch one day.’” Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Geographic “As soon Aug 3, 2022

Every Watch Tells A Story: “As soon as I saw it I thought, ‘Wow! I have to have that watch one day.’”

Tommy is a Time+Tide Club member who works in cricket and, as a result, travels a lot and spends an inordinate amount of time in airports. That means he also gets a lot of exposure to new watches in the duty-free section, which is how he first spotted the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Geographic. “As soon as … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells A Story: “As soon as I saw it I thought, ‘Wow! I have to have that watch one day.’” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #16 “Watch Ambassadors” Time+Tide
Jul 23, 2022

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #16 “Watch Ambassadors”

A few days ago we kicked off our Fantasy Watch Ambassador draft, where the team will be matching up famous figures with watch brands – the only rule being the person that they choose cannot already have represented a watch brand. But that is fantasy. How familiar are you with actual watch ambassadors today? Find … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #16 “Watch Ambassadors” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IN-DEPTH: The Titoni Seascoper 600 is a dive watch from a brand you should know more about Time+Tide
Jul 23, 2022

IN-DEPTH: The Titoni Seascoper 600 is a dive watch from a brand you should know more about

With the advent of Kickstarter it seems that anyone can start a watch brand these days, but there will always be a certain level of cachet required to be truly respected as a Swiss luxury brand, no matter the price point. So, with over 100 years of honest family-owned operation and consistent high-end products, why … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Titoni Seascoper 600 is a dive watch from a brand you should know more about appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Watches & Wonders Returns to Geneva in March 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Jul 12, 2022

Business News: Watches & Wonders Returns to Geneva in March 2023

Having successfully pulled off the first large-scale watch fair in Switzerland since the pandemic started – and the first expanded event that included Baselworld transplants like Rolex and Patek Philippe – the organisers of Watches & Wonder will be doing it again next year. Watches & Wonders 2023 will take place in Geneva from March 27 to April 2, 2023 – though those are “provisional dates” according to the organisers. But before that the event will take place in two cities in China. First on the tropical resort island of Hainan from October to December 2022 where it will happen simultaneously in Haikou and Sanya. The CDF Mall in Sanya Last year’s W&W; at the West Bund Art Centre in Shanghai Each of these respective events will be taking place in a shopping mall operated by one of the country’s two primary duty-free retailers, China Tourism Group (CTG) in Haikou and China Duty Free Group (CDF) in Sanya. And then from November 23 to 27, W&W; will move to the West Bund Art Center in Shanghai, where it took place in previous years. Intriguingly, the announcement the 2023 event in Geneva begins with “Watches and Wonders announces… its first provisional dates for 2023”. And it omits the list of exhibiting brands. That is perhaps a hint that next year’s event will not have the same exhibitors as this year, reflecting widely discussed tensions between the various exhibiting brands and groups.  

Pharrell’s watch collection is as hot as a spacecraft upon re-entry Time+Tide
Ming ly done it all Jun 25, 2022

Pharrell’s watch collection is as hot as a spacecraft upon re-entry

Producer/musician/songwriter/fashion mogul-hyphenate Pharrell Williams has seemingly done it all. Since his early days producing and writing songs for the likes of Mystikal, Pusha T, and Jay-Z as half of The Neptunes, he’s a guy that never stops. Besides two solo albums and five with his group N.E.R.D., just look at this small slice of the … ContinuedThe post Pharrell’s watch collection is as hot as a spacecraft upon re-entry appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The rules of engagement: Can you buy the person you plan to marry a watch instead of a ring? Time+Tide
May 10, 2022

The rules of engagement: Can you buy the person you plan to marry a watch instead of a ring?

EDITOR’S NOTE: Let’s face it, a lot of marital traditions have thankfully changed. These days, if you choose to ask the bride’s father for permission to marry them, it’s more of a tokenistic gesture to get the old bastard on side rather than a potentially deal-breaking request. Same-sex couples can finally get married in most … ContinuedThe post The rules of engagement: Can you buy the person you plan to marry a watch instead of a ring? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Geneva, with F.P. Journe, Daniel Roth, and Voutilainen SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Daniel Roth May 3, 2022

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Geneva, with F.P. Journe, Daniel Roth, and Voutilainen

Phillips’ upcoming auction in Geneva is a 201-lot sale that comprises a myriad of rare and unusual timepieces. The selection of independent watchmaking at The Geneva Watch Auction: XV is particularly interesting, including several early and historically significant timepieces from high-profile brands. We round up five of the most notable watches, ranging from an F.P. Journe Resonance from the year of its launch, as well as early, unique pieces from Daniel Roth and Kari Voutilainen, a skeleton, double-face tourbillon and Decimal Repeater respectively. The Daniel Roth double-face tourbillon that is possibly unique thanks to the sapphire dials on both the front and back Granted, several of the watches we’re covering below will finish well into six figures. But even if you are not planning to bid, they are worth learning about. We provide a close look at rare watches that are rarely encountered. That said, there’s an eminently affordable example of excellent, honest independent watchmaking in the sale: the Habring² Erwin “Star”, the first-ever SJX Edition that was launched last year to 10th anniversary of this site. Though a handful have sold on the secondary market since – including one that sold on Loupe This for US$15,400 – this is the first example to go under the hammer at a major, international auction house. The Geneva Watch Auction: XV takes place at Hôtel La Réserve in Geneva, with the first session happening on May 7 and the second session on the day...

Phillips Geneva XV And Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 50th Auctions Feature Watches With Serious History Quill & Pad
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 50th Auctions Apr 14, 2022

Phillips Geneva XV And Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 50th Auctions Feature Watches With Serious History

Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo will hold the Geneva Watch Auction XV in Switzerland on May 7 and 8, 2022. What’s particularly interesting about Phillips’ traditional late spring auction this year is that it is preceded by an “appetizer” on May 6, the Royal Oak 50th auction with a catalogue so rich it could arguably serve as the main course. Brendan Cunningham went to the New York City preview and shares a few of his highlights with us here.

Why The 2022 Watches And Wonders Geneva Might Be The Last Of Its Kind Quill & Pad
Ming Mar 12, 2022

Why The 2022 Watches And Wonders Geneva Might Be The Last Of Its Kind

As GaryG prepares for his trip to Switzerland for Watches and Wonders 2022, the demise of Baselworld is very much on his mind. It seems to him that the era of all-inclusive mega watch shows is rapidly coming to an end. The natural implication is that Watches and Wonders Geneva will be the next exhibition to change radically or that it will even cease to exist. Here he explains why.

The Collector’s Crossroads: The watch meetup and its importance to the modern collector Time+Tide
Feb 17, 2022

The Collector’s Crossroads: The watch meetup and its importance to the modern collector

As things slowly get back to normal in this (fingers crossed) post-pandemic world, the number of physical watch events continues to grow. As a result, in the span of two weeks, I recently found myself being pulled in multiple directions. New watch release over here, 2022 collection reveal over there… Ten days in, I was … ContinuedThe post The Collector’s Crossroads: The watch meetup and its importance to the modern collector appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Obituary: Giovanni Zavota, Vintage Watch Dealer (1952-2022) SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 2481 Jan 21, 2022

Obituary: Giovanni Zavota, Vintage Watch Dealer (1952-2022)

A distinctive gentleman whose trademark outfit always called for multiple scarves looped around his neck, Giovanni Zavota was one of the old-school Italian dealers who shaped vintage watch collecting of the late 20th century, having sold some of the most important wristwatches – amongst them a steel ref. 1518 and the platinum ref. 2499. He passed away on 15 January, aged 69. I would see him each time I went to Geneva for the auctions and he was clearly an original character. He was most comfortable conversing in Italian, which I speak none of, so we only spoke briefly a few times. But one occasion that stands out in my memory is when I encountered him in Italy and he was wearing a Patek Philippe ref. 2481 with a cloisonné dial – and a matching bracelet – on one wrist, and on the other he had on a crisp and enormous Longines Lindbergh. Two watches of different style and disparate value, yet each interesting and important in its own way – a sure sign the man had good taste and understood historical significance. Giovanni Zavota. Photo – Auro Montanari A testament to his place in the world of vintage watches – specifically the pre-internet world – was the turnout at his funeral, which took place on January 18 in Collecchio, a small town just south of Parma where he had spent his summers as a boy. Almost a hundred people turned up, including family and old friends, but also a large contingent that exemplified the Italian-centric, late-20th century world of vinta...

DUBAI WIND DOWN: “Rolex is actually the most authentic watch brand in the industry” - Maximilian Büsser Time+Tide
Rolex Nov 26, 2021

DUBAI WIND DOWN: “Rolex is actually the most authentic watch brand in the industry” - Maximilian Büsser

Another day of Dubai Watch Week comes to an end and the insightful discussions and excitement of fresh novelties keep coming. While I have only been here for days, I already feel at home on the fair grounds and, with the new friends I have made throughout the week, it is as if we have … ContinuedThe post DUBAI WIND DOWN: “Rolex is actually the most authentic watch brand in the industry” – Maximilian Büsser appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Report: Only Watch 2021 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet who bid enthusiastically Nov 8, 2021

Auction Report: Only Watch 2021

Only Watch 2021 was a landmark for the biennial charity auction in both scale and value. Organised by Christie’s, the ninth edition of Only Watch just took place in Geneva, with 53 timepieces having been sold for CHF30 million, or about US$32.8 million. Held for the first time in Palexpo, the sprawling convention centre near Geneva’s airport, Only Watch 2021 saw a turnout of over 850 people inside the cavernous room, a massive uptick in attendance compared to the one or two hundred in past years. People and faces Practically everyone who is someone in Swiss watchmaking turned up, including Thierry Stern of Patek Philippe, Frederic Arnault of TAG Heuer, Tudor chief executive Eric Pirson, as well as independent watchmakers like Kari Voutilainen and Francois-Paul Journe. Even Aurel Bacs and Alex Ghotbi of rival auction house Phillips were spotted seated in the room. Some of the boldface names were also bidding on lots in the auction, including Francois-Henri Bennahmias of Audemars Piguet who bid enthusiastically on the Chanel J12 pair and Jean Arnault of Louis Vuitton La Fabrique du Temps who was after a creation by an independent watchmaker. While there were watch collectors from around the world present – including a contingent from Dubai Watch Club – there were fewer Asian bidders in the room compared to past years, presumably because of the travel restrictions still in place in most Asian countries. That said, many of the crucial bidders from Asia did turn up, inc...

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock “Only Watch” Ref. 27001M-001 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock “Only Oct 30, 2021

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock “Only Watch” Ref. 27001M-001

Having set the record for the most expensive watch ever when the Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A sold for CHF31 million at Only Watch 2019, Patek Philippe has created something entirely different for the 2021 instalment of the charity auction. The Geneva watchmaker’s entry for Only Watch 2021 is the Complicated Desk Clock ref. 27001M-001, a tabletop timepiece inspired by a pair of historical clocks made in the 1920s for prominent American collectors. The front of the clock opens to reveal the pushers for adjustment as well as winding and setting sockets Initial thoughts While Patek Philippe’s past creations for Only Watch were unique variants of existing models, the ref. 27001M desk clock is a unique model. It also claims several “firsts”. The ref. 27001M is the only example of this reference ever created to date – and the first timepiece to be equipped with this movement – and also the first clock Patek Philippe has contributed to Only Watch. This makes the ref. 27001M truly unique against all of Patek Philippe’s diverse repertoire. The inscription on the inside of the lid Very much classical luxury in style, the ref. 27001M is an appealing timepiece. A couple of details could have been done better or removed altogether, like “The Only One” on the lower edge, but it is still a good looking object. At the same time, it is mechanically interesting, since the movement is not only a 31-day calibre but also being used for the first time by Patek Philippe. Thoug...