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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Fratello’s Top 5 High-End Horological Wishes For 2025 Fratello
Jan 10, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 High-End Horological Wishes For 2025

Another Friday, another list! Last week, we kicked the year off with a list of horological wishes for 2025. This week, we extend our list of wishes by focusing on some high-end brands. Some interesting developments in 2024 led to this new list. With personnel shifts and new introductions in the past year, we thought […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 High-End Horological Wishes For 2025 to read the full article.

Hot Take: The “Winter Cool” Tissot PR516 Automatic (Valjoux) Chronograph Fratello
Tissot PR516 Automatic Valjoux Chronograph Jan 10, 2025

Hot Take: The “Winter Cool” Tissot PR516 Automatic (Valjoux) Chronograph

Tissot is expanding its PR516 collection with new chronograph models. Two quartz versions in PVD rose gold and bicolor and one stainless steel model with an automatic chronograph movement will join the lineup. The latter is based on a Valjoux A05 movement, an update of the famous Valjoux 7753. It’s this full-steel model with automatic […] Visit Hot Take: The “Winter Cool” Tissot PR516 Automatic (Valjoux) Chronograph to read the full article.

Colorado’s Best Kept Secret: The 5280 Watch Company is Making Timepieces with Enamel Dials for Under $4,000 Worn & Wound
Rado s Best Kept Secret Jan 9, 2025

Colorado’s Best Kept Secret: The 5280 Watch Company is Making Timepieces with Enamel Dials for Under $4,000

This summer, a new American watch company quietly launched in Denver, Colorado. Fittingly named 5280 after the Mile High City where the brand calls home, this watchmaker is tackling an artistic craft that’s particularly near and dear to my heart: vitreous enamel.  5280 is the brainchild of founder Rich Keel, a longtime watch collector. For him, timepieces have always been less about functionality and more about wearable art. In addition to being a lover of watches, Keel is a lover of art of all kinds.  “I’ve always been a big fan of Impressionism and its vibrant colors, beauty, depth, and richness-really art from the late 19th and early 20th centuries is what I gravitate toward,” he shares. “Faberge eggs are another artform that’s always fascinated me. So, when I decided I wanted to bring my passion for watches and art together and create my own company, the goal was to put a Faberge egg on a watch face.” Despite his knowledge and appreciation for art, Keel admits he’s “utterly inept when it comes to being artistic,” so he knew he’d have to tap the right craftsman to execute his vision. Enter Bill Brinker, an expert in guilloche and enamel work and a true artist through and through.  I’ve had the pleasure of interviewing and training with a number of masters in the arts of guilloche and enamel work throughout my career and in my personal pursuit of the crafts, but none have quite as unique and fascinating a story as Brinker. He hails from a tow...

Swatch Gets in on the Year of the Snake with Two Refreshingly Affordable Options Worn & Wound
Swatch Jan 9, 2025

Swatch Gets in on the Year of the Snake with Two Refreshingly Affordable Options

It’s certainly no surprise that our inboxes here at Worn & Wound continue to be inundated with new releases heralding the year of the snake. The first weeks of January are traditionally a slow period for new watch releases in every category except lunar new year novelties. It’s safe to say that if this type of thing is your primary interest in watch enthusiasm, we are in the midst of what is surely your Super Bowl. While a lot of the new lunar new year releases are extravagant, high end demonstrations of a brand’s craft, there are, thankfully, examples of watches in this vein that are far more approachable. That brings us to the Year of the Snake collection from Swatch, a pair of impressionistic snake themed designs for those who are looking to celebrate the new year on a budget.  First up is the Golden Red Bamboo reference, a ultra slim 38mm quartz powered watch with a glimmering gold dial. The dial’s motif appears to be a somewhat abstract idea of a snake rather than a zoologically correct representation of a serpent, and I think it’s better off because of it. The orange accents on the hands and dial make for a nice contrast with the gold, which is extended to the case, crafted from stainless steel and given a PVD gold coating. The strap is described as “leather and textile” and has matching orange embroidery and gold accents.  If something a little bigger is more your speed, Swatch has you covered with the Blue and Gold Lithe Dancer reference, part of th...

Fratello Talks: Our New Year’s Watch Resolutions 2025 Fratello
Jan 9, 2025

Fratello Talks: Our New Year’s Watch Resolutions 2025

Hello, and happy New Year! What better way to venture into another trip around the Sun than by setting yourself up with a solid set of New Year’s watch resolutions? In today’s episode, Nacho, Daan, and Lex discuss theirs for 2025. They include everything from pondering potential future purchases to considering consolidating comprehensive collections. The […] Visit Fratello Talks: Our New Year’s Watch Resolutions 2025 to read the full article.

In-Depth: Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 Tourbillon SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 Tourbillon Jan 9, 2025

In-Depth: Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 Tourbillon

Greubel Forsey unexpectedly debuted the Hand Made 1 in 2019, but the watch has recently been in the headlines because Facebook founder Mark Zuckerberg was wearing one while announcing the elimination of Meta’s fact-checking policy. So it’s an opportune time to revisit the Hand Made 1, especially since its successor may be on the horizon. More classical in style than the typical Greubel Forsey, the Hand Made 1 gets its name from the fact that entire watch, including the case, is “95%” produced “using only hand-operated tools”, but finished to the requisite high standards of the brand. “Robert and myself wanted to bring the level of reliability and performance of a modern watch, so we have imposed the tolerances of a Greubel Forsey timepiece on a hand-made watch,” explains Stephen Forsey, cofounder of Greubel Forsey. Initial thoughts Highly regarded for its elaborately-finished and often elaborately constructed watches, Greubel Forsey surprised with the Hand Made 1. While still equipped with a tourbillon regulator, the Hand Made 1 is simple relative to the brand’s usual fare, which is focused on inclined regulators and multi-axis tourbillons. While the Hand Made 1 is different from most Greubel Forsey offerings, it is similar in possessing a sheen of perfection. This is immediately apparent with the watch in hand. Every edge and surface in the movement looks perfect, even under magnification. This sets it apart from the average “hand made” watch, which ...

Hublot Unveils this Year’s Lunar New Year Limited Edition Spirit of Big Bang Worn & Wound
Hublot Unveils Jan 8, 2025

Hublot Unveils this Year’s Lunar New Year Limited Edition Spirit of Big Bang

2025 is the year of the snake in China, and Hublot has been creating special limited releases for the Chinese New Year since 2016. This year’s rendition, which has traditionally been implemented on Hublot’s Spirit of Big Bang has just been announced, and you and I both know, before even seeing images of the new watch – that there’s going to be a snake on it somewhere.  By looking at the press images of this watch, it’s quite apparent that the snake theme is in the forefront of the design. It’s cleverly integrated into the serpent like shape of the sub-dial’s borders, which are entirely adjoined in gold plated fashion and flow effortlessly into each other.   The snake theme doesn’t stop there, but actually continues on both the bezel and the rubber strap with the integration of a scale like engraving. While the year-end theme of the watch is a big attraction that will initially draw you in, the details of the high horology watchmaking is what’s really going to keep you intrigued. The watch case is fully ceramic and the bezel has been screwed down with visible screws. The watch also features a fully open dial setting, showing off the inner workings of chronograph calibre HUB4700, which is actually based on an original El Primero chronograph movement from 1969, of course with this modified variant having some upgrades such as the low friction silicon escape wheel.  The watch is priced at $35,100, but is limited to a tiny production volume of 88 pieces. T...

The Least Expensive Panerai Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Panerai Jan 8, 2025

The Least Expensive Panerai Watches

Panerai might be the most in-your-face example of the quintessential Tool Watch That Made Good as a Luxury Item. Unlike many other contenders for that title, a Panerai watch today looks essentially the same as it did back in the 1940s, when Italian navy frogmen wore them into underwater combat. Few concessions have been made to modern tastes and trends: the luminous material on the dials is no longer radioactive (inarguably a positive change), Rolex no longer makes the cases, and you no longer have to be a naval commando to own one, but otherwise the relatively few models that make up the Panerai family have stubbornly adhered to their military-issue origins. It is this adherence that makes Panerai, for many, an all-or-nothing proposition — either you’re in the brand’s worldwide, rabid coterie of fans and collectors, proudly self-dubbed the Paneristi, or you roll your eyes at the notion of ever owning one: they’re too big, too flashy, too clunky, too Stallone.  This article, the latest in our series of Price of Admission guides, is aimed at those aspiring to join the former group — in other words, those wishing to pull the trigger on their first Panerai but possibly intimidated by the breadth of choices — and, of course, by the ticket price for entry to that first tier of Paneristi-land. Without further ado, let’s find the most affordable Panerai watches in each of the current product families. RADIOMIR The Radiomir, first conceived in 1935 but tracing its m...

Adventuring With A Special IWC Mark XV Through Australia’s Island State Of Tasmania Fratello
IWC Mark XV Through Australia’s Jan 8, 2025

Adventuring With A Special IWC Mark XV Through Australia’s Island State Of Tasmania

Traveling is always an opportunity to spend quality adventure time with a watch. My last trip happened to be in Tasmania, a special place for me. On the trip, I took my IWC Mark XV, which also has great personal significance. My IWC Mark XV is a watch that fulfills the role of going anywhere […] Visit Adventuring With A Special IWC Mark XV Through Australia’s Island State Of Tasmania to read the full article.

Hands-On: the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph 42mm Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin 222 following Jan 7, 2025

Hands-On: the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph 42mm

It is not common practice for us to spend time crafting a hands-on review for watches that sit outside of our personal periphery. There needs to be a thread to pull, some emotion to lean on, and an opinion worth sharing. So, in full disclosure, when arranging a loan for the Gerard-Perregeaux Leureato Chronograph 42mm I did so based on the fact that it had been a while since I had spent any considerable time with a GP and didn’t have any solid thoughts on writing about it. The model is a bit overlooked in the market, has a higher and extremely competitive price point, and has been overshadowed a bit by the titanium version released earlier in 2024. But sitting there with the Laureato Chronograph dial dancing in the light shooting bursts of blue at me, I really began studying the piece. To understand the Laureato though, you must understand the history and a bit of the controversy surrounding it.  An oft-forgotten integrated bracelet watch originating from the “golden” Genta age of design, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato can trace its roots back to 1975. While not a Genta design, some believe the Laureato bears a striking resemblance or is a love child of the iconic AP references that gained him eventual fame. For full context, we had the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak in 1972, the Baume et Mercier Riviera in 1973, the original Laureato in 1975, the IWC Ingenieur and Patek Philippe Nautilus in 1976, and then the Vacheron Constantin 222 following in 1977. Of course, there are...

Oris Introduces the ProPilot X “Miss Piggy” Worn & Wound
Oris Introduces Jan 7, 2025

Oris Introduces the ProPilot X “Miss Piggy”

From the moment Oris announced their ProPilot X “Kermit” watch fans have been speculating about which muppet would be next to get the Oris treatment. Not that we didn’t love seeing Kermit on the dial (once a month, on the first of the month) but for many elder-millennials and Gen-X watch collectors, the thought of having an entire collection of Muppet watches was, and remains, pretty tantalizing. Now, just about two years after Kermit made his Oris debut, we get the follow up: the ProPilot X Miss Piggy Edition. If you were hoping for Beaker or Animal or another more niche Muppet to appear on an Oris dial, you’ll have to keep waiting. Of course Miss Piggy would have to be the next character – she’s the natural counterpart to Kermit, after all. Has there ever been a more obvious “his and hers” collection than these two ProPilots together? I can’t think of one. The ProPilot X Miss Piggy Edition takes the familiar ProPilot X format and shrinks it (and pinks it, sorry) to 34mm. The case is stainless steel and the watch is powered by a rebadged Sellita automatic caliber.  It’s notable that unlike the Kermit watch, we don’t see Miss Piggy on the dial of her ProPilot, not even for a day (there’s no date window for her to make an appearance). Instead, there’s a small window on the caseback through which you can see her periodically on the winding rotor. For a watch devoted to such an iconic character, this is a pretty retrained approach. Instead of Miss P...

Introducing – IWC Discreetly Drops New Red Gold Versions of the Updated Portugieser 40 and 42 Automatic Monochrome
IWC Discreetly Drops New Red Jan 7, 2025

Introducing – IWC Discreetly Drops New Red Gold Versions of the Updated Portugieser 40 and 42 Automatic

2024 was all about the Portugieser at IWC, the brand’s most classic and elegant collection. Of course, the star of the show was the Portugieser Eternal Calendar, a secular calendar watch that made it to our list of the best watches of the year. There were many more updated versions of this emblematic watch launched […]

A Speedmaster Collector’s Story - Marking A Special Olympic Moment Fratello
Jan 7, 2025

A Speedmaster Collector’s Story - Marking A Special Olympic Moment

We kick off the first Tuesday of 2025 with a reader’s story on his Speedmaster. This week’s contribution comes from Ricardo Rio, who resides in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Ricardo has been part of the Speedy Tuesday community for a long time. He has a professional background in sports and joined BMX Freestyle cyclist José Torres […] Visit A Speedmaster Collector’s Story - Marking A Special Olympic Moment to read the full article.

Editorial: Reflections on Peter Speake’s Return SJX Watches
Jan 7, 2025

Editorial: Reflections on Peter Speake’s Return

I was happy to see Peter Speake return with PS Horology and the Tsuba. Peter was one of the first independent watchmakers I got to know well on a personal basis, and I have followed his career for almost two decades now. I first met Peter sometime in 2005, either at Baselworld (it was my first time there) or in Singapore during his regular round-the-world tours. He was then a fresh face in independent watchmaking, having just founded his brand Speake-Marin in 2002. In the context of the period, when independent watchmaking was a truly niche segment, Peter was a star (although he is modest enough he might disagree). Founded by Peter and Daniela Marin, who were then married, Speake-Marin was a promising brand with many of the ingredients for success, including a strong aesthetic (thick, chunky, and ETA-based but I liked it), good watchmaking and quality thanks to Peter’s own skill, and of course Peter himself – the personality is as important as the product in independent watchmaking. The unique Majestic Monkey of 2008, one of the first custom Speake-Marin watches I saw in person Peter was not the only watchmaker I met around that time, but I got to know him better than most other indie watchmakers, as a result of an annual watch fair that took place in Kuala Lumpur, the Malaysian capital. Known as A Journey Through Time (AJTT), the watch fair was staged by YTL Corporation, a Malaysian conglomerate with diversified interests ranging from power generation to luxury shoppi...

Longines Introduces a Conquest Heritage Limited Edition for the Year of the Snake Worn & Wound
Longines Introduces Jan 6, 2025

Longines Introduces a Conquest Heritage Limited Edition for the Year of the Snake

Over the holiday break, I frequented the local Chinese restaurant not once, not twice, but three times. And each time, before my General Tso was brought to the table, I would pore over the paper placemat, going to the list of everyone’s birth year in my head. Oh, he’s definitely a horse, I’d think. Her? A dragon…eh, I don’t see it. I, myself, am a Sheep, which makes sense considering I’m pretty much useless and wear a lot of wool. But the real star of the show is the Snake. Representing wisdom, rebirth, and vitality – I’m cautiously optimistic about what 2025 may bring for us. And that optimism is only fortified by the string of new watches that are coming from Longines right out of the gate for the New Year. Their latest limited-edition, a Conquest Heritage model designed to honor the Chinese zodiac, is a bold, thoughtful design, and a welcome addition to this year’s Lunar New Year offerings from some of our favorite brands.  What’s noticeable first about this new edition to the Conquest Heritage line-up is the sunray gradient dial that’s as eye-catching as it is unique. Being a traditional color in the Chinese New Year tradition, red seems a fitting choice that also helps to set this specific reference apart from the more neutral dial colors of the line, which is all beige, black, and silvers. The gradient is a particularly smart choice, giving the lumed gold indices room to shine, while not being too vibrant against the stainless steel case. On th...

TAG Heuer is Once Again the Official Timekeeper of Formula 1 SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Jan 6, 2025

TAG Heuer is Once Again the Official Timekeeper of Formula 1

On the back of the hefty, 10-year LVMH-Formula 1 sponsorship deal signed last year, TAG Heuer now returns as the official timekeeper of Formula 1, just in time for the sport’s 75th anniversary in 2025. This is a homecoming of sorts of TAG Heuer, which was official timekeeper for F1 for a decade from 1992. In fact, the brand’s roots in motorsports go back several decades - Heuer was the first luxury watch brand to display its logo on a Formula 1 car in 1969, and the first to sponsor a team in 1971 when it partnered with Scuderia Ferrari. And TAG Heuer famously signed Ayrton Senna as an ambassador in 1988, just before he became a champion driver. Jack Heuer (centre, in blue) at Ferrari in Maranello In fact, the brand name itself references F1: well before TAG Group acquired Heuer in 1985, the Saudi-owned group was already shareholder in McLaren and only sold its stake in the automaker and racing team last year. TAG Heuer’s return to F1 comes at an opportune time, with the sport having evolved into a global entertainment franchise under the ownership of Liberty Media. According to F1, it now boasts an audience of 750 million fans, many of whom are drawn into the sport by the hit Netflix series, and also an upcoming film starring Brad Pitt.  

Visiting Seiko UK And Witnessing A Seiko Tuna Battery Change Fratello
Seiko UK Jan 6, 2025

Visiting Seiko UK And Witnessing A Seiko Tuna Battery Change

Last month, I had the opportunity to visit the Seiko UK headquarters in Maidenhead. As a die-hard Seiko fan, I’ve always wanted to see what happens here. Does the site outsource much work, or is this a fully functional service center? The answer may surprise you because Seiko UK can handle practically everything when servicing […] Visit Visiting Seiko UK And Witnessing A Seiko Tuna Battery Change to read the full article.