Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: An 'Evil Clapton' From Universal Genève, A Chronomatic Heuer Carrera, And A Very Early Fake Watch
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.
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Hodinkee
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.
Time+Tide
Stealthy, utilitarian watches are on the agenda for this week’s releases, including a pair of new Panerai Luminors and a blacked-out Laco.The post New releases from Girard-Perregaux, Laco, Panerai and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Frank Lloyd Wright’s Last Original Client For most people with an interest in architecture, the best you can do with respect to the works of Frank Lloyd Wright is to admire his buildings from afar, or perhaps get the guided tour experience if you visit his most famous pieces. Obviously, far fewer people actually get to live in the homes he designed, and fewer still are alive today that can tell you what it was like to work with the architect during the building process. This wonderful piece in NPR puts a spotlight on Roland Reisley, who recently turned 101 years old. He is, according to NPR, the last surviving original client of Frank Lloyd Wright, and he still lives in the home he designed. He’s been at the residence in Westchester County, NY for over 70 years, and has become a bit of a Frank Lloyd Wright scholar in that time. This one’s a must read for anyone with an interest in architecture. Huckberry Opens Shop: Brick & Mortar in Georgetown For over 14 years, the team at Huckberry has worked to curate a collection of clothing, gear, and home accessories like no other. While their offerings have drawn the attention of many, you were only able to shop online or...
Fratello
Whenever I see a MoonSwatch in the wild, and there are many of them, it’s likely no longer on its original strap. Many people have changed it out for something more comfortable, like a rubber or textile strap. I also wear my MoonSwatch on an aftermarket strap, because even though it’s easy to adjust, the […] Visit Hands-On With The Rubber MoonSwatch Strap On My Mission To Saturn to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Offering acres of blue on one's wrist, this commemorative Zenith chronograph is a ceramic tour de force.The post This Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph in blue ceramic is electric appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
There’s no shortage of Seiko releases these days, but few pique our interest quite like a new Alpinist. The rugged field watch has earned cult status over the years, balancing quirky charm with real-world capability. Now, with the introduction of the Seiko Alpinist SPB531, the brand adds a Europe-only edition in a deep, moody blue. […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Alpinist EU Limited Edition In Blue to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Any listing of the best world time watches on the market today is best prefaced by explaining the difference between this type of travel watch and the more common GMT watches category. Whereas a GMT watch is designed to simultaneously display the time in both a traveler's local time zone and his or her home time zone, a world-time watch allows its wearer to quickly glimpse the time in numerous other time zones across the world in addition to the local and home time, often in visually spectacular fashion with globe-themed dial designs. Here we've found 25 world-time watches that are worthy of your notice, with price tags ranging from eminently affordable (Tissot, Ball, Nomos) to exclusive and expensive (Breguet, Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe). Unlike our roundup of GMTs, we didn't disqualify watches with additional complications but we did err on the side of watches more recently introduced to the market. And you'll be happy to discover a few of them that you can purchase directly from our online store. (In the case of the limited editions showcased here, some of which may now be available only on the secondary market, prices listed reflect the MSRP at the time of release.) A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone Price: On Request, Case size: 41.9mm, Thickness: 10.9mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: Manually Wound L121.3 The now-iconic Lange 1 has been the flagship of the reconstituted A. Lange & Söhne brand since its introdu...
Monochrome
For many, watchmaking is synonymous with Switzerland. While the Swiss industry remains influential, several other countries also play significant roles in the production of timepieces. Germany, Japan and China are obvious examples. But India, too, is increasingly important, both as a manufacturing hub and a growing market. At the heart of India’s watch industry is […]
Worn & Wound
I purchased my first Arcanaut, the Arc II Fordite, on April 29, 2023. I know the exact date thanks in part to Instagram, where I documented the acquisition, as one does, at that year’s Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco. In the two years and change that I’ve owned the Arc II, my fondness for it has only grown, and Arcanaut has become, to put it plainly, one of my very favorite watch brands. I wrote a pretty thorough review of the Arc II a few months after buying it, and scrolling through it today I really can’t see any particular assertion I’d take back now that I’ve lived with it for even longer. But I thought two years would be a good time return to the watch and evaluate it again, this time in context with another Arcanaut that I added to my collection at the end of last year: the Experimental Arc II Tiger Sh’arc. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Zach Kazan (@zkazan) The first thing I’ll say here about the Tiger Sh’arc is how unlikely, under normal circumstances, that I’d choose to own one. I don’t have a strict “no duplicates” rule when it comes to keeping multiple watches from a single brand in my collection, but it’s something I’m a bit leery of. As someone who generally speaking prioritizes variety and originality in my watchbox, owning two or more watches by one maker ultimately seems like a waste of (my) resources. My philosophy has always been that I want to experience as much as possible. How different could one Arc ...
Monochrome
It’s mind-boggling to think that Bulgari’s legion of Octo Finissimo watches has conquered the landscape of ultra-thin watches with ten world records in just 11 years. Equally impressive is the Octo Finissimo’s potent cocktail of horological virtuosity and contemporary Italian style. While the Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days did not break any ultra-thin records, it […]
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week, we move on from the ongoing retrospective of the first six months of the year. It’s time to change the topic. This week, we kick off a trilogy of lists focusing on affordable watches. To be more specific, over the course of the next three weeks, we will look […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Watches Under €500 From Big Brands to read the full article.
Monochrome
While most of you are familiar with Sarpaneva, the indie watch company created by Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva, his other brand, S.U.F Helsinki, is slightly more confidential. Standing for Sarpaneva Uhren Fabrik, said to be “Finland, through and through,” S.U.F Helsinki is Stepan’s vision to explore simpler, sportier and more accessible watches… but still inspired by his […]
Fratello
HP Hercules watches, originally crafted in post-war Germany, made a comeback in 2022 under the leadership of Swiss watchmaker (of Dutch origins) Adriaan Trampe, formerly of EZA watches. The brand’s rebirth leans on nostalgia, but aims to recharge it with modern mountaineering efforts. I got a chance to go hands-on with the Hercules Hand-Wound Double […] Visit Hands-On With The Everest-Worn HP Hercules Hand-Wound Double Barrelled to read the full article.
Part I of our story on the evolution of hairspring materials covered temperature compensation along with the development of the first specialised balance spring alloy, Elinvar. The story brought us to the 1920s, when scientist and horologist Charles-Edouard Guillaume (1861-1938) finished his work on nickel-iron alloys and watchmakers begun embracing Elinvar springs paired with mono-metallic balances. In this second part we turn to newer hairspring alloys, like the now-ubiquitous Nivarox. Then we look at today’s landscape and the future, touching on research done by the Swatch Group with alternative, niobium-based alloys and also the specialised but obscure Seiko SPRON 610 hairspring. Lastly we discuss silicon springs, which are growing more prevalent across a range of timepieces. Elinvar’s weaknesses Elinvar was by far the greatest breakthrough in self-compensating alloy hairsprings at the time. Guillaume considered Elinvar good enough and not needing further improvement - unsurprisingly since he was its inventor - but other watchmakers and engineers continued to experiment with iron-nickel compounds because Elinvar’s inherent properties made it a good, but imperfect, material. Even though the alloy behaved predictably with temperature changes, its physical properties were not ideal to begin with. Elinvar was a soft metal, which posed its own suite of problems for spring applications. The importance of softness in terms of hairspring performance is not related ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Back in 2016 Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the Reverso Tribute collection to celebrate the 85th anniversary of their iconic reversible rectangular-cased watch. Last year they added four new Reverso watches to this collection, two of which finally get us back to a case size that is nearly identical to that of the original Reverso from 1931. The Reverso has been a canvass for so many of JLC’s designs and watchmaking innovations over the years but I have to say it is so nice to get back to the basics with a legitimately unisex size and a monoface dial. As nice as the duoface Reversos are, the watch was conceived for polo players who wanted to protect their watch while leaving room for some personalization on the enclosed side. Here I am looking at the Reverso Tribute Monoface in steel with a blue dial, though it is also available in a white dial version. JLC Reverso History The year is 1931: Herbert Hoover is President, the Empire State Building in New York City is nearing completion, and the Star-Spangled Banner is adopted as America’s National Anthem. Of course, something entirely different is going on in the world of Swiss watchmaking when businessman and watch distributor Cesar de Trey attends a polo match while traveling in India. He notices one of the players watch crystal shattered while playing so he he pitched an idea to one of his colleagues who just happened to be Jacques-David LeCoultre. LeCoultre enlisted his partner Edmond Jaeger and the rest is, as they say,...
Teddy Baldassarre
With Tissot's revival of its 1978 Seastar design and its transformation into the PRX line back in 2021, the brand seemed to catch lightning in a bottle, offering the watch-collecting world an integrated-bracelet style at an affordable price point. While the PRX collection initially debuted with quartz-powered watches (with price tags to reflect that), the brand built on the initial success of the new identity and further developed its value proposition with the release of PRX models incorporating an automatic mechanical movement - the Powermatic 80 caliber - all while remaining under the $1,000 mark. In the years since, Tissot has only continued to diversify its repertoire of models within the PRX model family, offering a variety of case sizes, additional functionality, and, of course, nearly every color option that you can dream up, still at one of the most competitive price points in the industry. We know it, we love it, and though we aren’t through the decade yet, I think it’s safe to say that the Tissot PRX has solidified itself as one of the most influential watches of the 2020s. Today, I'll focus on none other than the Tissot PRX 35mm. Inarguably, the 40mm PRX remains the most popular size of the watch, but as someone who makes her preference for smaller watches well-known, I would argue that shaving off just 5mm in diameter has a profound impact on the versatility of the design, especially for those with smaller wrists. Tissot PRX History Size comparison: ...
Monochrome
Montblanc, the renowned producer of luxury fountain pens since 1906, entered the watchmaking arena in 1997. Keen to enhance its horological credentials, Montblanc acquired the famous Minerva manufacture in 2006. While the brand’s vintage-inspired 1858 line takes inspiration from Minerva’s historical watches and is named after the year the fabled manufacture was founded, it would […]
Hodinkee
A downsized, 36mm remix of JFK Jr.'s favorite '90s classic.
Deployant
Girard-Perregaux collaborates onc eagain with Aston Martin and releases a new openworked edition of their Laureato in a dark grey ceramic case and bracelet.
Monochrome
Mido has quietly established a strong reputation with its Ocean Star 200C collection, dive-ready timepieces known for their solid construction, stylish design, and remarkable value. Earlier variants, like the blue-dial 200C in steel with a ceramic bezel and the lightweight titanium edition, have earned well-deserved praise from enthusiasts for their design and execution. A carbon […]
Fratello
Introducing the S.U.F. Helsinki Myrsky MY-G Pineforst, a new limited edition from the Finnish brand. This time, the pilot’s watch, inspired by a WWII-era Finnish fighter plane, comes with a lovely Pinefrost green dial. There is plenty to unpack here, so let’s dive straight in. The new S.U.F. Helsinki Myrsky MY-G Pinefrost is limited to […] Visit Introducing: A Nod To Finnish War-Time Aviation In The New S.U.F. Helsinki Myrsky MY-G Pinefrost to read the full article.
Fratello
In 2024, Anoma introduced its first watch: the A1. The piece caused quite a stir among watch fans and sold out quickly. Subsequent releases with different dial colors have followed suit, with far more demand than supply. Now, there’s a new addition known as the A1 Optical, and from the photos, these pieces will likely […] Visit Introducing: The Anoma A1 Optical to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Seems it wasn’t that long ago (in reality, it was close to a year ago) that I wrote my first “Objects of Desire” article about the watches of Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey, finishing with: given the prices of their watches I was unlikely to be able to buy any of the ones I truly lusted after anytime soon. My observation at the time was “go big or go home." As you will see, I've ended up going big and am now the proud owner of a Greubel Forsey Invention Piece 1.
Monochrome
The symbiotic relationship between mechanical watches and motorsports shows no signs of waning. When Girard-Perregaux was in the hands of Italian CEO Luigi Macaluso, a former rally driver, the brand forged a partnership with Ferrari in 1994, lasting ten years. In 2021, with Patrick Pruniaux at the helm, Girard-Perregaux became the official watch partner of […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Watches with mechaquartz movements are a small but quietly growing niche within the industry, particularly in the ambitious, creative, and extremely budget-conscious world of small independent watchmaking. Watchmakers have discovered that these “hybrid” movements, which offer quartz-level accuracy along with a dose of mechanical appeal, can often provide the opportunity to make chronograph watches that entice watch enthusiasts while still maintaining the affordable price points that keep their brands competitive. But what is a mechaquartz movement, exactly, and what watch brands are currently offering the most interesting examples of this technology? Read on. What is a MechaQuartz Movement? In a nutshell, mechaquartz (which various brands and other sources have also spelled mecaquartz, meca-quartz, or mecha-quartz) refers to a chronograph movement that combines a battery-powered quartz crystal oscillator for the main timekeeping (i.e., the hours, minutes, and running seconds) with a mechanical module for the stopwatch functions. The latter element ensures that the chronograph seconds hand sweeps smoothly over the dial, as in a fully automatic watch, rather than in short jumps, as it would operate in a fully quartz one, and that the seconds hand will snap back instantly to zero at the end of a time measurement. A mecaquartz movement is often referred to as a hybrid movement, but it’s not a hybrid in the same technical sense as, say, Seiko’s Spring Drive calibers, ...
Monochrome
Panerai and its Submersible line of dive watches hardly need an introduction as these robust, military-inspired timepieces, crafted for modern adventurers yet rooted in Panerai’s mission to develop precision instruments for the Italian Navy’s underwater commandos, have excited enthusiasts since 1998, first as part of the Luminor collection, and as a standalone series since 2019. […]
Fratello
Do you remember tyre watches? I had completely forgotten all about them until the founder and owner of Volan, Diederik van Golen, visited our Fratello office a year ago. Being a boat and car guy, he devised a modern interpretation of the tyre watch concept. These were only drawings back then, but they looked great. […] Visit Hands-On With The Volan Type One Tyre And Wheel Watches to read the full article.
Fratello
Last month, we introduced the new Tissot PRC 100 Solar Quartz in 39mm. The watch was met with near-resounding praise for its design, approachable pricing, and ease of use. For those of us with smaller wrists, though, the size was on the edge of wearability. That’s where the new 34mm version comes into play. My […] Visit Hands-On With The Tissot PRC 100 Solar Quartz 34mm to read the full article.
Monochrome
Sherpa Watches is the brainchild of Martin Klocke, an engineer and vintage Enicar enthusiast determined to revive the legendary Enicar Sherpa divers of the 1950s and 60s. Staying true to the pioneering compressor case technology initially developed by EPSA (Ervin Piquerez SA), Sherpa’s modern Ultradive series brings the same pressure-sealing construction into the 21st century. […]
Fratello
If you are a longtime reader of Fratello, you know I am a fan of Unimatic. I have often sung the brand songs of praise for developing one of the watch industry’s most recognizable and versatile visual design languages. The minimalist approach to watch design works miracles almost every time for the brand. As Unimatic […] Visit Hands-On With The Stylish Unimatic Modello Uno Heritage GMT Diver to read the full article.
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