Hodinkee
Interview: Chopard's Co-President On A Quarter-Century Of The L.U.C Collection
Karl-Friederich Scheufele weighs in on innovative complications, sapphire striking mechanisms, and the current Rolex CEO's first job in watchmaking.
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Hodinkee
Karl-Friederich Scheufele weighs in on innovative complications, sapphire striking mechanisms, and the current Rolex CEO's first job in watchmaking.
Time+Tide
“We’re here at the pinnacle of watchmaking – the top tier of the holy trinity!” That’s how Zach introduces Patek Philippe in this video with Ricardo that mulls over the brand’s best release of Watches & Wonders. And as you can quickly tell from his liberal use of superlatives – he’s pretty excited. But when it … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Head to head – what’s the best Patek Philippe release of Watches & Wonders? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Perhaps a sleeper hit of Watches & Wonders 2022, the Ulysse Nardin Freak S is an intriguing evolution of the brand’s trademark watch that makes its debut just as Ulysse Nardin has become an independent brand. The Freak S is equipped with twin balance wheels, but mounted on a central carousel as is de rigueur for a Freak. Initial thoughts The first twin-balance watch from Ulysse Nardin, the Freak S is perhaps the coolest iteration of the model since its inception in 2001. It has come a long way since the original, having been obviously enhanced in both style and performance. While its most obvious feature are the double balances, the Freak S also includes several details that enthusiasts will appreciate. For starters, it is a purebred Freak. Like the original, it does without a conventional dial, hands, and crown. In comparison, some of the more recent Freaks are more conventional in their execution. Thanks to double balances linked by a differential, the carousel is more striking than ever, while promising improved timekeeping. At the same time, the brand’s proprietary “Grinder” system means the Freak S is self-winding, eliminating the hassle of manually winding the huge mainspring via the notched back. Twin balances with a differential The overarching theme of a Freak is a movement that stands out, literally. The movement sits on three levels – carousel, barrel, and winding system, all arranged one over the other. Most of the movement, including the oscillat...
Hodinkee
Tudor's latest creation alters the course of the Black Bay and I'm here for it.
Hodinkee
While the new Air-King might be more radical than it first appears, the strange new destro GMT-Master II actually makes perfect sense.
Video
Time+Tide
Last year, Zenith’s Head of Product, Romain Marietta admitted he was “shocked” by the runaway success of the Chronomaster Sport. “We knew it would be big, but not this big,” he told us. Frankly, at Time+Tide we were less surprised by the wave of excitement engulfing this ceramic-bezelled beauty. After all, Zenith had effectively created … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Zenith doubles down on the Chronomaster Sport line appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Bell & Ross turns the ubiquitous chronograph into a mechanical fitness tracker in the BR 03-94 Multimeter.
SJX Watches
Bell & Ross is back with another square instrument watch in black ceramic, but this time taking a sharp turn away from its traditional emphasis on no-nonsense, military-inspired style. Instantly different from the typical B&R; offering, the BR 03-94 Multimeter prioritises colours and shapes, sacrificing the legibility in favour of style – which is not actually a bad thing. Initial thoughts The BR 03-94 Multimeter is ostensibly an instrument. The multi-scale dial can measure heart rate, respirations, or speed of travel for three forms of locomotion. But that’s how it works in theory. It’s filled with an overload of colours, letters, and numbers, providing the wearer with five different scales to go with the chronograph, including three types of tachymetric scales, one each for running, biking, and driving. Admittedly all that is more for aesthetic effect that practical usage. The dial isn’t the easiest to read, especially when driving or biking, but it certainly looks cool. It’s strikingly different from the usual military-inspired look of B&R;, which can be monotonous. Multi-scale The various scales on the dial are highlighted in different colours – orange, bottle green, white, pale green and forest green. And each scale is accompanied by its own base and unit indicator, so the wearer can use the watch as a measuring device when the scale is read in tandem with the running chronograph seconds hand. While the look is poles apart from the fighter jet instrument o...
Time+Tide
“Look how fast Chris Grainger-Herr walks!” Andrew exclaims at one point in this video as he follows the IWC boss into his booth. It’s a throwaway line but it’s actually instructive, because Chris would appear to be the watch world’s most energetic man. His exploits yesterday offer the perfect example. One moment he’s casually welcoming … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: IWC boss Chris Grainger-Herr is the watch world’s most energetic man appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
True solar time is measured by the position of the sun and can run up to 16 minutes ahead of and 14 minutes behind the time shown on our clocks and watches. Our friends at The Watches TV spent a day with Philippe Dufour to have a look at this phenomenon in a personal way.
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Quill & Pad
Anyone who expresses even so much as a fleeting interest in great wine will soon come across Krug, for many the greatest champagne of all. There are champagne lovers and then there are devotees of Krug: Krugists. Ken Gargett doubts that any other champagne, or wine, has a word to designate its adoring fans. Here he explains why.
SJX Watches
One of the most unusual amongst F.P. Journe’s offerings, the Vagabondage I was the first of a trio that combined a tortue case with an unconventional time display, along with dials that feature no branding at all. Launched in 2004 and long gone from the brand’s catalogue, the Vagabondage I now makes a return with a new case, dial, and movement – all of which are improved over the original. Initial thoughts The original Vagabondage I was interesting because of its wandering, jumping hour display, along with the central balance wheel visible on the dial. Eighteen years later the new Vagabondage I is interesting for the same reason, because it is essentially the same watch. While the new Vagabondage I has been updated in several ways, ranging from a larger case to a new movement, it retains the familiar look. That also means it looks like a watch from the early 2000s with a slightly dated air compared to most wandering hours on the market today. But that’s exactly what makes it cool. It is an old idea but one that has been improved in just the right ways. Most important amongst them is the case, which wider and longer than the original, giving it dimensions almost identical to the Vagabondage II and III. It still remains elegant and wearable, but the new case size is more appealing than that of the original, which is a little too small. Inching forward Fans of the brand will be familiar with the story of the Vagabondage, but here’s a quick recap: it start with a on...
Hodinkee
Come for the case, stay for the bracelet.
Southpaws rejoice as the Crown delivers a destro surprise.
Time+Tide
What Tudor would release at this year’s Watches and Wonders was one of the big talking points among collectors and enthusiasts. The sister brand to Rolex has built a reputation for unexpected releases. Think the Tudor North Flag or Black Bay P01. Tudor, once again, did not disappoint. The brand’s release of a 39mm true … ContinuedThe post The Tudor Black Bay Pro – first impressions from a die-hard Tudor fan appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
Hodinkee
Lange embraces the lightweight metal in the third voyage for the Odysseus.
Time+Tide
In this video, Jeremy and Zach take a look at Vacheron Constantin‘s new releases and one of the immediate highlights: the Historiques 222. You might remember this story from last year where a Time+Tide reader spoke to us about finding a Vacheron Constantin 222 in his sock drawer that turned out to be worth a … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The return of the 222 – our first take on Vacheron Constantin’s new releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Australia Editor-in-Chief Felix Scholz share his view of Watches and Wonders 2022 far from the madding crowd.
Hodinkee
The eSteel roll-out continues.
Hodinkee
It's like the Big Bang, only, square-er.
Video
Hodinkee
Watches that make me sorry I already used the title, "A Game Of Tones."
Hodinkee
Purity, the Parmigiani way.
SJX Watches
One of the biggest surprises from Rolex at Watches & Wonders 2022 is the GMT-Master II ref. 126720VTNR – the first contemporary, regular-production Rolex with a left-handed or “destro” crown. And just to make it even more different, it is equipped with the brand’s first-ever green-and-black bezel. Initial thoughts A brand that has preserved the signature style of watches for decades, Rolex is all about incremental improvements that are often evident only in the details. That’s exactly the case with the new GMT-Master II, which retains the trademark GMT aesthetic but is rather different. In fact, it is very different, which makes it polarising – you either like it or you don’t. Initially the left-handed crown does look awkward on the left wrist; it feels off somehow. But very quickly you get used to it and it is surprisingly cool. The new ref. 126710VTNR is priced about US$550 more than its counterparts with a conventionally located crown. According to Rolex, the price difference does not result from the rejigged crown position but rather the changes to the testing equipment necessary to accommodate the new crown position. Destro Most obvious is the crown at nine o’clock, which is accompanied by a repositioned date window. It is ostensibly for the left-handed, but will surely find fans amongst right-handers who want something unusual. It is intriguing, just because it’s so different from the rest of the brand’s offering (though Rolex’s sister compan...
Quill & Pad
This year heralds the perfect version of A. Lange & Söhne's Grand Lange 1, a watch that is able to win over even the staunchest fans of the classic 38.5 mm size (like our Elizabeth Doerr). Take a look, she's sure you'll agree.
Time+Tide
Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders is the biggest watch fair of the year and, with nearly 40 brands presenting, there is a ton of ground to cover. So, for your convenience, we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Zach and Ricardo react to the new Tudor releases from Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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