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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Fratello’s Top 5 High-End Indie Watches Of 2024 Fratello
Dec 13, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 High-End Indie Watches Of 2024

Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we continue our series of best-of-the-year lists as we cover the best watches from high-end independent brands in 2024. Expect to see an exotic group spanning a nice variety of designs and complications. Of course, five watches do not do justice to the many ones we could have […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 High-End Indie Watches Of 2024 to read the full article.

Introducing – Artya Releases a Collection of One-of-a-Kind Chronographs in a Wide Variety of Materials and Colours Monochrome
Dec 13, 2024

Introducing – Artya Releases a Collection of One-of-a-Kind Chronographs in a Wide Variety of Materials and Colours

Whether you appreciate or not the styles and designs, which can sometimes be very striking, Artya, the brainchild of Yvan Arpa, is one of the most creative brands around – even though recently, the Stairway to Heaven collection has proved less polarising. Not shy of using unconventional materials for his cases and dials, Arpa is […]

Holiday Gift Guide: Watches for the Tech Enthusiast in Your Life Featuring Citizen Worn & Wound
Citizen Dec 12, 2024

Holiday Gift Guide: Watches for the Tech Enthusiast in Your Life Featuring Citizen

This year marks the 100th anniversary of Citizen’s very first watch. Over the past several years, Citizen has expanded its reach into the enthusiast watch market with a series of releases that deliver exceptional value in materials, technology, and aesthetics-while retaining broad mass-market appeal. A forward-thinking approach to innovation has always been a cornerstone of Citizen’s identity, making their watches ideal gifts for tech enthusiasts. You know the type-those who always have the latest and greatest gadgets. With groundbreaking advancements like Eco-Drive light-powered functionality, custom materials like Super Titanium, and superior accuracy through Satellite Wave GPS and Atomic Timekeeping, Citizen offers something truly special for the gadget lover in your life. The post Holiday Gift Guide: Watches for the Tech Enthusiast in Your Life Featuring Citizen appeared first on Worn & Wound.

The Seiko Dress Watch Of The Yar Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Dec 12, 2024

The Seiko Dress Watch Of The Yar

As someone who typically leans towards the toolish side of Seiko’s offerings, there was something about the watch I bring you today which stopped me in my tracks for an inexplicable reason. Perhaps it is explicable (perhaps in real time while writing this) and I may figure out a way to explic...I mean, explain it. Yes, I am coming to you to introduce a new Seiko Presage Classic model. It is called the SPB478J1, and I think it just might be the attainable dress watch of the year. Okay, taking a step back for a moment, I am a Rolex guy and a two-tone guy. I regularly wear a two-tone Rolex Datejust on a jubilee bracelet so I certainly have a type. And you can see from looking at this watch, the Seiko SPB478J1, that it fits nicely into this category for me. Getting my biases out of the way, let’s dig into the watch. So Seiko, as we know, calls its watches by their reference numbers. But it also gave this one a nice little descriptor on the website: Delicate Cream Silk. I mean, come on, that’s amazing. It’s almost like it could be the alternative name of a band consisting of Bruno Mars and Anderson Paak. The name actually refers to the watch’s dial because, of course it does. The dial texture is “inspired by unbleached natural Japanese silk, a material which has long featured in Japanese home décor and clothing since ancient times.” The brand calls this a ‘Shiro-Iro’ colored dial.  Moving to the watch itself, it features gold-colored accents for a mixed-met...

Introducing – The Louis Vuitton Escale Platinum Guilloché and Grand Feu Enamel Dial Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Escale Platinum Guilloché Dec 12, 2024

Introducing – The Louis Vuitton Escale Platinum Guilloché and Grand Feu Enamel Dial

Following a drastic change of strategy in recent years, Louis Vuitton‘s watchmaking division is being primed to become a serious player. As part of the new strategy, Arnault has taken the flagship Tambour watch, launched in 2002, and revisited it as a luxury sports watch, while the Louis Vuitton Escale was reintroduced as a time-only […]

The IWC RAAF Watch Is A Reminder Of The Brand’s Rich Past Fratello
IWC RAAF Watch Dec 12, 2024

The IWC RAAF Watch Is A Reminder Of The Brand’s Rich Past

Earlier this year, I wrote about a special watch from the International Watch Company Schaffhausen. That was the IWC reference IW3281-02, also known as the Pilot’s Watch Automatic RAAF (henceforth called “IWC RAAF watch” for brevity). This special timepiece pays homage to the original IWC Mark 11 watches issued to the Royal Australian Air Force […] Visit The IWC RAAF Watch Is A Reminder Of The Brand’s Rich Past to read the full article.

Hands-On: The New Omega Seamaster Diver 300M With A Steel Dial And Titanium Bezel Fratello
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Dec 12, 2024

Hands-On: The New Omega Seamaster Diver 300M With A Steel Dial And Titanium Bezel

Yes, you read that correctly. I think the new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, with its steel dial, titanium bezel, and mesh bracelet, is wrong. Allow me to explain myself. Historically, combining the 1990s case design with a mesh bracelet that originated a couple of decades before that doesn’t make sense. As a dive watch, it […] Visit Hands-On: The New Omega Seamaster Diver 300M With A Steel Dial And Titanium Bezel to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: Microbrands Vs. Entry-Level Legacy Brands Fratello
Dec 12, 2024

Fratello Talks: Microbrands Vs. Entry-Level Legacy Brands

Hi there, and welcome to Fratello Talks. Would you rather buy a watch from a microbrand or an entry-level legacy brand? That’s the question Nacho, Thomas, and Lex ask themselves today. As we’ve begun to see microbrands develop and offer better quality and undeniable value while entry-level big-name brands stand relatively still, this has certainly become […] Visit Fratello Talks: Microbrands Vs. Entry-Level Legacy Brands to read the full article.

Hands On: Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 SJX Watches
Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 Dec 12, 2024

Hands On: Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800

The Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 is Panerai’s fourth LAB-ID “concept” watch, but probably the most interesting watch in its current catalogue from a technical standpoint. It’s a big, complex watch – inside the 49 mm ceramised titanium case is a movement with six mainsprings. More accurately, it has a conventional movement with twin barrels, plus an illumination module with four of its own mainsprings that generate enough to light up the dial, hands, and bezel for a lengthy 30 minutes. Initial thoughts For the most part I prefer traditionally-styled Panerai watches, either the vintage remakes or the 1990s-type 44 mm models (though I admit the brand’s recent calendar complications are done well). The Submersible Elux hardly resembles a vintage Panerai, but is one of the rare modern creations that is appealing, both in terms of concept and execution, but not so much price-wise. The Submersible Elux is both ridiculous and cool. It’s enormous at 49 mm and also costs just under US$100,000. But it’s arguably the greatest evolution of the historical Panerai speciality of glow-in-the-dark dive watches. And the price is explained in part by the small scale of production in Switzerland. Granted, at this price the PAM01800 isn’t a practical diving instrument, but the technology inside is interesting and notably sophisticated compared to past attempts at light-up watches, all of which suffered from impractically short illumination or power reserve. In time, the te...

Video Review – The F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical, One of the Only Tourbillon Wristwatches that Makes Sense Monochrome
F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical One Dec 11, 2024

Video Review – The F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical, One of the Only Tourbillon Wristwatches that Makes Sense

If you’re reading this article and MONOCHROME on a regular basis, you should certainly all about the tourbillon, this device where the regulating organ is placed in a constantly rotating cage, counteracting the negative effect of gravity. But we have to keep in mind that the tourbillon, conceived and patented by Breguet in 1801, was […]

Introducing A Tougher Shade Of White: The Urwerk UR-230 Ceramique Fratello
Urwerk UR-230 Ceramique If you Dec 11, 2024

Introducing A Tougher Shade Of White: The Urwerk UR-230 Ceramique

If you compare horology and science, Urwerk must be fundamental science. The house does not ask what people need. Instead, it asks what is possible on the fringes. The Urwerk UR-230 is a prime example. Its dual-turbine system allows the user to regulate the watch’s winding. Does anyone need that? No. But who cares? It […] Visit Introducing A Tougher Shade Of White: The Urwerk UR-230 Ceramique to read the full article.

Nomos Tangente 2Date Review Teddy Baldassarre
Nomos Dec 11, 2024

Nomos Tangente 2Date Review

Germany’s Nomos Glashütte has built its avid following on an adherence to minimalist, Bauhaus-style simplicity in its watch designs, and it has the Red Dot awards to prove it. In all of its similar but subtly distinct product families — particularly the Tangente, the brand’s acknowledged flagship — Nomos has approached complications with great care, mostly focusing on the understated and utilitarian. Sometimes, however, even the most restrained watchmaker wants to have some fun, to make a watch with an added function that isn’t really necessary or even practical but adds an indisputable cool factor. Such is the case with the Tangente 2Date, unveiled earlier this year, which, as its cheeky name implies, is the first Nomos watch that displays the date in two different ways. And even though that sounds like an idea from the Department of Redundancy Department, don’t knock it until you’re tried it — as I had the opportunity to do recently, with Nomos sending me a review model of the Tangente 2Date with a sunray-brushed blue dial. Case: Like all Nomos watches, particularly those in the flagship Tangente collection, the 2Date is recognizably Bauhaus in its aesthetic. The 37.5mm case is practically bezel-free, with just the narrowest hint of one framing the wide dial opening. At just 6.75mm high (6.65 on the version without a sapphire caseback), the case weighs lightly on the wrist and slips easily under a shirt cuff. The lugs are thin and angular, from the front...

Introducing – The New Urwerk UR-230 Polaris in White Ceramic Monochrome
Urwerk UR-230 Polaris Dec 11, 2024

Introducing – The New Urwerk UR-230 Polaris in White Ceramic

Typically, Urwerk leans heavily on darker tones for its case designs, with few exceptions, such as the EMC Time Hunter in its Stormtrooper-like white ceramic. However, the new Urwerk UR-230 Polaris marks another bold and refreshing departure. With a case crafted from a ceramic-based white composite, this release feels surprising and perfectly natural, expanding the […]

The Urwerk UR-230 Arrives in White Ceramic Composite SJX Watches
Urwerk UR-230 Arrives Dec 11, 2024

The Urwerk UR-230 Arrives in White Ceramic Composite

Urwerk is best known for its all-black, sci-fi watches, so the UR-230 Polaris departs from the norm. Cased in white ceramic composite, the UR-230 Polaris incorporates several advancement in terms of materials: the white case is milled from a proprietary fibreglass-reinforced ceramic that is more resistant to impact than conventional ceramic. Notably, the material was developed in-house according to Urwerk. Initial thoughts Although Urwerk has introduced many iterations of the UR-210/220/230, the Polaris is arguably the most interesting to date because of the material. It retains the familiar design of the series, but represents an achievement for Urwerk with the proprietary ceramic-fibreglass composite. The fact that Urwerk is going beyond complications and case design is laudable. The composite addresses one of the weakness of pure ceramic, which is vaunted for its durability and immunity to scratches – that very hardness makes it fragile. Dropped onto a hard surface, for instance, ceramic may crack or break. Moreover, such damage is impossible to repair, making case replacement necessary (and inevitably expensive). The UR-230 Polaris is more expensive than the other models in the series that sport conventions case materials. The higher price is arguably justified considering the new material, although if this new material makes its way into more affordable Urwerk models, then the material would lose some of its novelty. Satellite complication Fibreglass-reinforced cera...

The New Oak & Oscar Humboldt GMT SAR Edition Fratello
Oak & Oscar Dec 10, 2024

The New Oak & Oscar Humboldt GMT SAR Edition

Seven months have passed since Oak & Oscar released its Atwood hand-wound chronograph. However, it seems that founder Chase Fancher and the team were already plotting the next model, the Humboldt GMT SAR Edition. To be fair, this is a limited offering designed with a search and rescue team in mind. However, it deserves attention […] Visit The New Oak & Oscar Humboldt GMT SAR Edition to read the full article.

The Highly Anticipated Omega Speedmaster Pilot Has Landed Worn & Wound
Omega Speedmaster Pilot Has Landed Dec 10, 2024

The Highly Anticipated Omega Speedmaster Pilot Has Landed

One of the cool things about the Omega Speedmaster is that it can truly be just about any watch it needs to be. It’s the Moonwatch, of course, but it’s also a racing chronograph, a dressy chronograph, a chronograph inspired by WWII era military watches, and it can even be a plastic toy. That, I think, is what makes it “iconic,” an overused word if there ever was one in our trade, but one that nonetheless applies perfectly to the Speedmaster. It’s also, from time to time, a pilot’s watch, and Omega’s newest release, part of a late-in-the-year drip of new product that has the brand positioned as one of the big winners of 2024, is a Speedmaster that is purpose built for the skies in a way we rarely see the Speedy outside of Omega’s quartz offerings.  The new Speedmaster Pilot, as it is known, has been the subject of speculation for much of this year. Leaked images of the watch on the wrist of US military pilots generated a great deal of discussion on the forums and Instagram, and our friends at Fratello provided a great overview of everything that was known about the Speedmaster “Flight Qualified” back in September. That watch (the one seen in the leaked images) appears to be made for military personnel only. The one seen here can be thought of as the civilian version. It differs somewhat in aesthetic details, but in terms of specs and features it appears to be identical, and offers its own unique Speedy experience.  This is a two register Speedmaster wi...

Introducing – The New Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified Monochrome
Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified Dec 10, 2024

Introducing – The New Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified

While the Speedmaster started its life as a racing chronograph destined to measure average speeds (hence its name), it quickly changed vocation when, during the 1960s, it became the watch of choice for US Air Force pilots and, of course, NASA astronauts. From there, the Speedmaster became one of the most famous pilot’s chronographs and […]

Insight: The Modern Performance Chronograph Movement SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin has Dec 10, 2024

Insight: The Modern Performance Chronograph Movement

High-end chronograph movements of today tend to have in common a vertical clutch and column wheel. Such “performance” chronographs are typically also automatic, and practically every high-end watchmaker, from Audemars Piguet to Vacheron Constantin, has its own take on the modern “performance” chronograph. The chronograph movement as we know it today is actually a fairly recent invention. Despite being common in today’s chronograph constructions, the vertical coupling, or at least its concept, is decades-old. The Pierce cal. 130/134 launched in the 1930s is regarded as the first commercially available wristwatch with a vertical clutch. There are examples of even older stopwatches that relied on crude forms of the vertical clutch, but most were either prototypes or small-batch production. But the large-scale use of the vertical clutch only started in the late 1960s, when Seiko debuted the cal. 6139. Launched in 1969, the Seiko cal. 6139 was a vertical clutch movement produced on an industrial scale. Not only was it among the first-ever automatic chronographs, but the cal. 6139 also was objectively the most advanced amongst them. Compared to the modular construction of the Breitling-Heuer Chronomatic Caliber 11 and the fairly classical architecture of the Zenith El Primero, the Seiko cal. 6139 was endowed with a vertical clutch and a novel construction all around. It was, however, an industrial, no-frills movement at heart. The one that started it all – the cal. ...

Fratello On Air: Our Favorite Watches From The ’90s, ’00s, And ’10s Fratello
Dec 10, 2024

Fratello On Air: Our Favorite Watches From The ’90s, ’00s, And ’10s

Welcome to another edition of Fratello On Air! This week, we’re back with a lengthy episode to see you through holiday travels or unruly guests. We received a listener suggestion to discuss our favorite watches from the ’90s and ’00s. We’ve added the ’10s to the mix as a bonus. Wait 20 minutes for the […] Visit Fratello On Air: Our Favorite Watches From The ’90s, ’00s, And ’10s to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Colorfully Elegant Grand Seiko SBGH349 “Icefall” In Titanium Fratello
Grand Seiko SBGH349 “Icefall” Dec 10, 2024

Hands-On With The Colorfully Elegant Grand Seiko SBGH349 “Icefall” In Titanium

Whenever I read the word “icefall,” my mind wanders to climbing Mount Everest. To reach the top of the world on the Nepal side of the mountain, you must pass the Khumbu Icefall early on to reach Camp 1. It’s a notoriously dangerous start to your journey to the summit. This is part of the […] Visit Hands-On With The Colorfully Elegant Grand Seiko SBGH349 “Icefall” In Titanium to read the full article.