Hodinkee
Pre-Owned Picks: Five Unusual Watches That Are New To The Shop
Most of us are familiar with a Submariner or a Navitimer, so now let's look at the hidden gems in some of the most popular brand's catalogs.
Results for Above the Date Window
42,130 articles · 280 videos found · page 587 of 1414
Related pages
Hodinkee
Deployant
The new King Seiko collection
Seiko introduces the King Seiko collection with four new references - limited edition in 37mm case, and three other novelties in 39mm case.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Best Rolex Watches for Collectors and the Stories Behind Them
Rolex watches are indisputably some of the most popular and coveted timepieces on the planet, and every watch enthusiast has their own ideas about (and often their own criteria for) what the best Rolex watches are. But how much do you really know about how your favorite Rolex model came about, why exactly it's so special and distinct from all the rest, and in some cases why it is historically significant to the watch industry as a whole? In this feature, we take a tour through nine of the most important and/or interesting Rolex watches, from their original conception to their place in the modern horological canon. Origins of an Icon The most famous Swiss watch brand in the world was originally not even Swiss: it was founded by a German in the United Kingdom. Hans Wilsdorf (1861-1960), an orphan raised by his uncles in Kulmbach, Germany, learned entrepreneurship and self-sufficiency early in life, and began his career in the Swiss watch industry in 1900 when he started as a clerk at the watchmaking firm of Cuno Korten in La Chaux-de-Fonds, responsible for the maintenance and accuracy of hundreds of pocket watches per day. In 1905, two years after moving to London, Wilsdorf (below) partnered with another businessman named Alfred Davis to establish Wilsdorf & Davis, the company that would become Rolex. Wilsdorf & Davis, based in London’s Hatton Garden commercial district, was founded with a mandate to make reliably precise watches at affordable prices. In 1914, days...
Worn & Wound
Review: the Oris Big Crown Calibre 473
There’s a lot of talk among watch collectors of “signature watches.” Watches that essentially serve to define a brand, or even an entire category. The Omega Speedmaster, for example, is a perfect example of a signature watch. Can you even imagine Omega without it? You can’t – it’s integral to the whole operation. They have other collections, sure, but they live and die with the Speedmaster. Does Oris have a signature watch? I walk by an Oris authorized dealer in my neighborhood just about every day, and there’s a giant decal on the side of their building prominently featuring an Oris Aquis. For as long as I can remember, this authorized dealer has had this kind of marketing in this specific place, always featuring an Aquis. Is the Aquis Oris’s signature watch? I think for many collectors it might be. It’s a modern tool watch (with an integrated bracelet, well before the hype) that has specs making it competitive with virtually any well known diver, but thanks to the aforementioned bracelet it has something unique about it that can only be Oris. It’s possible that to an even wider swath of customers, the Divers 65 is the Oris signature watch. I can remember when this watch was first reissued in a modern context, and it was something of a phenomenon. It put Oris on the map for many enthusiasts entering the hobby at the beginning of a boom time for the entire industry, and remains a key watch in the vintage throwback category that virtually every brand...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Audemars Piguet's Newest Releases Bring The Concept And Offshore Design Closer Together
While the Concept's movement may be the biggest achievement, the newest flying tourbillon chronograph might be the moment the Offshore comes into its own in a new, big way.
Worn & Wound
Bulova Makes a Stronger (and Smaller) Case for Why You Should Add the Lunar Pilot Chronograph
The history of the Bulova Lunar Pilot Chronograph is a nebulous one. Sure, its claim to fame is that it was worn on the moon’s surface by astronaut Dave Scott during the 1971 Apollo 15 mission. As the story goes, Scott’s issued Omega Speedmaster malfunctioned during his second moonwalk, which opened up the door for his personal Bulova Lunar Pilot to get some action. But there were always questions to be answered in regards to where its design came from, what movement it used, and how it got into Scott’s possession in the first place. If you’re an Apollo enthusiast, moonwatch enthusiast, or both, then I’m sure these queries already have the gears turning. But before you move that cursor over to your browser search bar, I strongly suggest you stay right here and check out this editorial piece written back in 2016 by W&W; contributor, Hung Doan, as he covers all the bases in this interesting piece of investigative journalism. Alright, welcome back! Interesting bit of history, right? Dave Scott’s Bulova Worn On The Moon During The Apollo 15 Mission Fast forward to today, Bulova has announced that they are expanding their Lunar Pilot Chronograph line with two brand new models – a black dial and accompanying subdials harkening back to the traditional steel case special edition model and a cream textured dial with navy blue accents. Both variations get a new and improved case that’ll be more suitable for a wider range of wrist sizes, as well as a cleaner dial layou...
Worn & Wound
The Accutron Astronaut GMT Makes its Return to Horology Relevancy with Re-Edition of “T” Model
Back in the days, when the market for an affordable GMT was incredibly sparse, I distinctly recall the Bulova Accutron Astronaut as being one of the potential vintage options to add to the collection. At the time, I was already attracted to the aesthetic of a 24 hour steel bezel on a black dial watch, and the pairing of its faded green markers, as well as the italicized Astronaut wordmark, made it all the more appealing. Sadly, the Astronaut never made its way into the watchbox. Since then however, we’ve seen Bulova release several Accutron models in the form of the Legacy Collection, Spaceview, and DNA. But despite popular reissued designs like the Bulova Lunar Pilot Chronograph, we have yet to see a re-edition of the Accutron Astronaut GMT … until today. The new Accutron Astronaut is based off of the original 1968 “T” model featuring a distinct 41mm saucer steel case and a short lug set that just reveal themselves under the bezel. From overhead, the bezel eclipses the entire case making you want to look sideways at the thing. Like literally, sideways. Doing so displays the slim midcase that then angles inwards towards the caseback. No battery hatch here, as the caseback sports a semicircle exhibition display akin to that of a window on a space shuttle, providing an opportunity to peer inside at the Astronaut’s Sellita SW330 GMT movement. Despite the name Accutron, where its latter syllable is derived from the word “electronic,” from the original model’s t...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Bulova Adds Slimmed-Down Versions Of The Lunar Pilot To Their Archive Series
Introducing the new Bulova Lunar Pilot chronograph slimmed down with a new case diameter of 43.5mm. Read more for specs and pricing.
Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Adds Three Colorful Variants to the Petite Seconde Collection
Louis Erard has unveiled their first new watches of 2023, and they build on one of the brand’s key developments from last year. Usually when this brand comes to mind, enthusiasts think of their watches with regulator layouts, and the many interesting collaborations they’ve undertaken in the last few years as they’ve really gained traction with collectors. The Petite Seconde, part of their Excellence collection, is perhaps a little slept on by comparison. These are simple three handers, and not as flashy or unusual as the regulators (well, except for this one), but they have a charm of their own and represent a kind of simple, elegant watch that used to be quite common but is now harder to find in an environment dominated by sport and tool watches. The new watches introduced today all use plenty of vibrant color, and come in a case size that collectors have been asking for. The 39mm Petite Seconde case seen here made its debut just about a year ago with the Petite Seconde Terracotta, a coppery, earthy spin on a traditional format. Until that point, the Petite Seconde had only been available in a 42mm case, which while not enormous by most standards, certainly stretched the limits for a watch of this type, which is at least attempting to approach a certain level of refinement. Notably, the Terracotta was available in either a 39mm or 42mm case, while no such option has been made available for this colorful trio. We’re not sure if that’s a signal that Louis Erard ...
Hodinkee
The Spec Sheet: The Grand Seiko 'Soko' Special Edition Sees The Forest For The Trees
The arboreal-inspired SBGA429 is Grand Seiko at its dial-driven best.
Worn & Wound
The New Bulova Lunar Pilot 43.5 – Now Available In The Windup Watch Shop
Between the Astronaut and Lunar Pilot models, Bulova has a serious history with watches worn in space. One of the most common bits of feedback was the size of the Lunar Pilot, and they’ve taken that to heart. They’ve shrunk the case down to the original proportions of the actual watches worn in space – bumping from 45mm down to the historically accurate 43.5mm. Between the Astronaut and Lunar Pilot models, Bulova has a serious history with watches worn in space. One of the most common bits of feedback was the size of the Lunar Pilot, and they’ve taken that to heart. They’ve shrunk the case down to the original proportions of the actual watches worn in space – bumping from 45mm down to the historically accurate 43.5mm. The post The New Bulova Lunar Pilot 43.5 – Now Available In The Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Deployant
New: Méraud Antigua with the historical Landeron 248 caliber
Méraud Watch Co. presents the Antigua, a gorgeous manual chronograph watch with NOS Landeron 248 caliber movements, in a maritime motif.
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces the Tambour Jacquemart Minute Repeater “200 Years”
The world’s biggest luxury brand, Louis Vuitton has in recent years revealed steadily growing ambitions in haute horlogerie, especially after its acquisition of Geneva complications specialist La Fabrique de Temps (LFDT). To celebrate the 200th anniversary of the birth of its namesake founder, the brand created the Tambour Jacquemart Minute Repeater “200 Years”. Conceived by LFDT, the Tambour “200 Years” is a one-of-a-kind timepiece that demonstrates its watchmaking division’s mastery of fine watchmaking as well as its appreciation of artisanal craftsmanship: the movement combines both a minute repeater and automaton, while the dial is enamel miniature painting by none other than Anita Porchet. Initial thoughts Some two years in the making, the Tambour “200 Years ” exemplifies Louis Vuitton’s development as a maker of haute horlogerie. The movement is impressively complicated, while the dial is nuanced and artisanal. Granted, the watch is huge at almost 48 mm, so it’s far from subtle, but that reflects the house style of Louis Vuitton. The dial in particular reveals the thought that went into its conception and execution, with the cosmos represented by shaded, translucent blue enamel that is nearly ethereal and complemented by automaton elements sculpted in white gold. The impressionistic depiction of the night sky and planets brings to mind Stanley Kubrick’s sci-fi classic 2001: A Space Odyssey. The Tambour “200 Years” is actually the se...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Testing The New And Sold Out Synchron Poseidon Ice Diver
A full and detailed review-with live photos-covering the newly-released Synchron Poseidon Ice Diver limited edition.
Time+Tide
The other pink watch: why I bought the Grand Seiko SBGA413 instead of waiting for a pink Rolex OP 36
Editor’s note: Zach originally wrote this article back in January 2021, in which he digs into why he bought the Grand Seiko SBGA413 instead of waiting for the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 ‘Candy Pink’. We think it is a great example of turning the negativity of the ‘unobtanium’ phenomenon into a positive. There are so many other watches to explore, … ContinuedThe post The other pink watch: why I bought the Grand Seiko SBGA413 instead of waiting for a pink Rolex OP 36 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HBO’s The Last of Us illustrates the potent meaning watches can carry (as well as a great gift idea)
Editor’s note: If you have never played The Last of Us video games, or have yet to start HBO’s adaption for television (get on it!), please beware there are small spoilers for the beginning of episode one below. HBO always seems to have the hit show of each season. Game of Thrones: House of the Dragon dominated … ContinuedThe post HBO’s The Last of Us illustrates the potent meaning watches can carry (as well as a great gift idea) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Anniversary Wines For A Big Celebration: What To Drink When The Year Is More Important More Than The Price – Reprise
Wine can be so much more than just an enjoyable drink. It can link us to times, people, and places. A traditional concept for so-called anniversary wines is to celebrate a milestone, perhaps a birthday or wedding or even anniversary, with a fine bottle from the vintage of the birthyear or anniversary year in question. With that in mind, Ken Gargett shares a few suggestions.
Time+Tide
Clowning around: How Konstantin Chaykin put a smile on the dial to invent the Joker, a truly original watch design
Editor’s note: This story appeared in the fourth issue of NOW, the T+T Watch Buying Guide and gives you a taste of the sort of the features you can expect in our print magazine. Pick up the latest issue now to check out the top 207 releases of the last six months In 2017, Russian … ContinuedThe post Clowning around: How Konstantin Chaykin put a smile on the dial to invent the Joker, a truly original watch design appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Just a Minute With The Zodiac x Rowing Blazers Super Sea Wolf Limited Edition
Let’s take just a minute with a couple of bar flies, Zodiac, and Rowing Blazers. This latest collaboration between Harry’s Bar, Rowing Blazers, and Zodiac features the classic Sea Wolf case: 40mm diameter, 49mm in length, and 13.5mm thick. The Sea Wolf’s lug width is 20mm, and features a five-link bracelet, but it also comes with a custom French military-style hook & loop strap with a signed metal loop. Let’s take just a minute with a couple of bar flies, Zodiac, and Rowing Blazers. This latest collaboration between Harry’s Bar, Rowing Blazers, and Zodiac features the classic Sea Wolf case: 40mm diameter, 49mm in length, and 13.5mm thick. The Sea Wolf’s lug width is 20mm, and features a five-link bracelet, but it also comes with a custom French military-style hook & loop strap with a signed metal loop. The post Just a Minute With The Zodiac x Rowing Blazers Super Sea Wolf Limited Edition appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Hodinkee
Weekend Edition: The Best Audemars Piguet Release We Haven't Covered (And AP Teases Its CPO Program) And Xhevdet Rexhepi's First Watch
The week in drops and news, plus our ex-newbie picks a Grand Seiko and an off-topic ode to vintage Movado.
Deployant
New: Audemars Piguet novelties for the first half of 2023
Audemars Piguet introduces its new models for the first half of 2023, with 6 new CODE 11.59 models, a new Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-thin, a yellow gold and turquoise Royal Oak self-winding, and a full ceramic Royal Oak Offshore.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On with the Parmigiani Tonda PF 36
Parmigiani Fleurier continues to iterate on their distinctive Tonda platform, dialing it in a bit further with each step, and the latest example of the Tonda PF 36mm is a near perfect distillation of the concept. We first saw the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor last year, and found a lot to love in the small details. We also found the dial to be expansive on the wrist, almost in its own way when it came to wearability thanks to the wide integrated bracelet. The Tonda PF in 36mm guise addresses nearly every issue we had with the Micro-Rotor, but welcomes a different movement in the process. The Tonda has come a long way, and this is the watch that has us most excited about its future. The modern Tonda PF is often mentioned in the same breath as contemporaries like the Vacheron 222, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo, the Chopard Alpine Eagle, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato… you get the idea, but I’d submit that this watch sits in a slightly different realm to those (also excellent) watches. The Tonda PF has a grace that’s lacking in most high-end integrated steel sport watches. In fact, I wouldn’t call the Tonda a PF a sports watch at all. This is leisure wear at its finest, and will look better than most dressed up to the nines. There is no pretense of adventure lifestyle behind the scenes with this one. The Tonda PF in 36mm confronts this fact head on, and kind of dares you to place it into any specific genre. This specific example features a “steel sand” colored dial that does...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Minute Repeater Supersonnerie Smoked Sapphire Dial
Besides the Universelle grand complication, Audemars Piguet has another ace up its sleeve when it comes to its line of round watches. Originally launched a blue enamel dial, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Minute Repeater Supersonnerie gains sharper aesthetics with a smoked sapphire dial and a pink gold case. Initial thoughts A big part of the appeal of a repeater is the mystifying mass of racks and levers that drive the chiming mechanism and are most often hidden under the dial. Unveiling their secret is sometimes best done with the direct approach of not having a solid dial. A clear sapphire dials is arguably perfect it for a repeater, because the complication is usually constructed on the movement’s dial side. Unlike other frontal complications such as perpetual calendars, chiming complications are highly interactive – the racks are set in motion during the chiming sequence in a mechanical dance, all while the chimes sound, a performance that elevates the appeal of the complication. And for the Code 11.59 specifically, the tinted sapphire dial works especially well. Matched with high-contrast pink gold, it is an ideal complement for the case design as it blends an otherwise classical complication with contemporary livery that matches the modern styling of the case. As a result, the new repeater is one of the most appealing watches in the Code 11.59 range, with an intrinsic appeal that few of its brethren possesess. Contemporary package While retaining the same...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT
Amongst the wave of new Royal Oaks just unveiled by Audemars Piguet (AP) is a new “Concept”, the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT. Historically a platform to showcase novel materials and aggressive design, the new Royal Oak Concept (ROC) continues down that route – but more notably contains an all-new and cleverly-constructed rattrapante chronograph movement with automatic winding. Initial thoughts Much like previous models in the ROC line, the new split-seconds chronograph is a bold statement with a chunky, aggressive case, albeit one refined to become more wearable, especially in light of its size – it is the most wearing Concept to date. Paradoxically, the movement within the large-format case was clearly designed with thinness in mind. For a split-seconds chronograph with a big date, second time zone, and automatic winding, the movement measures a modest 8.92 mm high, svelte by the standards of the complications mix. And in contrast to the design (which brings to mind the Richard Mille RM 11), the movement is unusually refined and clever. An example of is the rotor that’s supported by a large central hub, which provides enough space in the middle to house the entire split-seconds mechanism. This serves to both reduce thickness, while simultaneously offering a view of the rattrapante mechanism without being obstructed by the rotor. Deceptively oversized As with most of its counterparts in the collection, the new ROC has a geometrically-shape...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Universelle
Undoubtedly the flagship of its recent new launches, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Universelle is the brand’s most complicated wristwatch in recent years – or perhaps ever. A project that began in 2016, the uber-complication rooted in history: it is a tribute to L’Universelle, the grand complication pocket watch from 1899 made by AP for German watchmaker Union. But the watch simultaneously pushes the brand’s modern-day watchmaking to the limit, particularly in terms of miniaturising highly complex mechanisms. The Universelle is available in two guises, the open dial above and the solid dial pictured further up Officially one of the brand’s Research and Development timepieces – the model is also known as the RD#4 – the Universelle is an exercise in combining into a single wristwatch all the traditional mechanisms that constitute a grand complication, and then some – perpetual calendar, rattrapante chronograph with flyback, tourbillon, and grande et petite sonnerie with minute repeater. L’Universelle on display in the Audemars Piguet Museum Initial thoughts An assuming name that means little to anyone who doesn’t understand the historical inspiration, Universelle is a horological behemoth that captures AP’s industrial and mechanical capability. Though it has a highly modern design, the Universelle harks back to a bygone era of high watchmaking that prized highly complicated watches incorporating as many features as feasible into a (barely) wearable...
Worn & Wound
When Junghans Gives You Lemons, You Get Two Limited Editions Celebrating the FIS Nordic World Ski Championships
Around this time of year, most of us here living in the North East of the U.S. are looking forward to the weather making a turn. But for the good folks living near the alpine valley of Planica, Slovenia, and ski enthusiasts across the globe, the opposite is true. The more snow, the better. That’s because in the next couple of weeks, the quiet valley of Planica will come to life as they’ll host the 54th edition of the FIS Nordic World Ski Championships. Fans and supporters alike will bear witness to high-level winter athletes from all over the world as they’ll compete in competitions such as ski jumping, cross country skiing, and nordic combined. Time is an important factor across the board here. A second too slow could be the difference between second place or championship glory. Or even the slightest bit of bad timing could put a skier in a really bad spot, especially if they’re cutting in and out downhill at 80 mph, or landing a jump as high as 90 feet. Either way you look at it, it would behoove you to have an accurate watch, whether you’re a competitor, or just a spectator keeping score at home. The Official Timekeeper of the FIS Nordic World Ski Championships isn’t a brand that you, or I would expect – and that brand is Junghans. When I hear the name Junghans, my thoughts immediately go to thoughtfully designed dress-casual watches, like the Max Bill or the Meister. But the Schramberg, Germany based brand is more than meets the eye. Turns out they’ve b...
Deployant
TGIFridays: the new Alpa 12 STC Silver Edition – : sample photographs
Follow up to our gear review of the Alpa 12 STC Silver Edition last week, we continue to explore with you the photographs we took over the month or so.
Hodinkee
Introducing: AP Starts The Offshore's 30th Anniversary With An Apocalypse-Ready Ceramic Tribute To The Original
For the first time, the Offshore is fully back in black (ceramic, that is).
Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Hits the Track with New Carrera Chronograph x Porsche Orange Racing
TAG Heuer and Porsche have revealed the latest fruits of their partnership in a new Cerrar Chronograph dubbed the Orange Racing. It’s been two years since the announcement of these two brands coming together once again, which came alongside this Porsche Carrera with road surface textured dial, and the latest member of that family turns up the color for an equal amount of drama. This watch represents the sixth creation of a TAG Heuer x Porsche watch, and while it treads into new territory thanks to its unique colorway, it also carries many of the familiar hallmarks we’ve come to expect from TAG Heuer chronographs. This Carrera x Porsche Chronograph, much like the examples that came before it, features a full set of applied Arabic numerals around that dial marking each 5 minute segment rather than the hours. This lends itself to the sporty, speedometer-esque feeling of the dial, which in this case, is accentuated by orange outlines defining each area of the dial. The black base of the dial gets a fine vertical brushing that’s noticeable, but doesn’t quite compete with the application of color. The rings of color, which inspire the name of the watch, appear to be something near Porsche’s Lava Orange (paint code M2A), though that specific color isn’t referenced by TAG Heuer. This color lands somewhere between red and orange and obviously works in rather dramatic fashion against the black backdrop of this watch. The dial itself is outlined, as are each of the sub ...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the First All-Ceramic Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph
Amongst the usual Royal Oaks just debuted by Audemars Piguet (AP) is the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph 42mm Black Ceramic. It’s the very first Offshore entirely in ceramic – both the case and bracelet are ceramic, as are the pushers and crown. And like all newer Offshore 42 mm models, it’s powered by the in-house cal. 4404. Initial thoughts The new Offshore is a straightforward proposition – monochromatic in black and white, and mostly ceramic. It’s essentially the original Offshore in a fancier execution, both in terms of materials as well as the movement. So you appreciate the relative simplicity of the original Offshore design, this is easy to like. Part of the appeal comes from the material. The all-black ceramic livery suits the no-frills aesthetic of the original Offshore well. At the same time, AP excels at finishing ceramic so the case and bracelet have the same lustrous surfaces as their metal counterparts. As a result, the watch has a tangible, tactile quality that is appealing. That said, ceramic is slightly glossier than metal, so the brushed surfaces don’t have the same matte finish as the metal equivalents. The only downside is the price – CHF70,000 before taxes. That’s almost double the model in steel and only a little less than the version in rose gold. According to AP that’s due to the difficulty of finishing the ceramic bracelet, but the price is still difficult to rationalise. Ceramic end to end While AP does offer Royal Oa...