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Audemars Piguet Citizen Seiko Feb 12, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep. 36 - AP Does All the Complications, Seiko’s New Movement, & A Charming Hand-Wound Chronograph

Welcome to episode 36 of A Week in Watches! We tackle a packed week of news from the likes of Audemars Piguet, Citizen, Seiko, and the return of Meraud with an incredibly charming chronograph called the Antigua. Audemars Piguet dropped plenty of new watches on the world this week, including their most complicated watch ever, the RD4 in the Code 11:59 body. Read more of our thoughts on the new AP releases right here. Seiko revealed a new movement in a trio of new King Seiko references, as well as a special 110th Anniversary King Seiko with a beautiful geometric brown dial. Finally, we discuss a sophomore release from the brand Meraud, who impressed us with their Antigua, a colorful hand wound chronograph with a rather unexpected movement. You can read more of our thoughts on this watch in this hands-on review. Catch all this and more in the full episode below, and be sure to subscribe for more great watch content. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 36 – AP Does All the Complications, Seiko’s New Movement, & A Charming Hand-Wound Chronograph appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Baltic among others Feb 9, 2023

Hands-On with the Colorful Meraud Antigua Chronograph

Back in 2018 we reviewed a watch from Meraud called the Bonaire, a time-only diver with some stylish undertones that elevated it from mere neo-vintage diver from a micro-brand status. In closing, Ilya expressed excitement about the future of the brand, and how that might manifest in different models. This week, we’re finally getting a look at the next chapter with the release of the hand-wound chronograph called the Antigua. This is a watch no longer content with stylish undertones, instead opting for outright stylish, full stop. The Antigua oozes personality from damn near every angle, and while not without fault, this is a watch that’s not just fun, but unexpected.  Colorful hand-wound chronographs from small independent brands are certainly enjoying a moment thanks to the likes of Studio Underd0g, Lorier, and Baltic, among others, and Meraud carves their own path with the Antigua thanks to the well considered design (a trait shared by the others cited above), and the somewhat unconventional choice of movement. I wouldn’t go so far as to call the Antigua an anomaly, but it manages a fine balance between safe and comfortable, and quirky and strange, landing somewhere in the middle. It’s the best kind of follow up to a promising start, and I only wish it had come a little sooner, as this is a brand I’d like to see more from. $1917 Hands-On with the Colorful Meraud Antigua Chronograph Case Stainless Steel Movement Landeron 248 Dial Soft Sand, Miho Black Lume Supe...

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Worn & Wound

Bulova Makes Feb 8, 2023

Bulova Makes a Stronger (and Smaller) Case for Why You Should Add the Lunar Pilot Chronograph

The history of the Bulova Lunar Pilot Chronograph is a nebulous one. Sure, its claim to fame is that it was worn on the moon’s surface by astronaut Dave Scott during the 1971 Apollo 15 mission. As the story goes, Scott’s issued Omega Speedmaster malfunctioned during his second moonwalk, which opened up the door for his personal Bulova Lunar Pilot to get some action. But there were always questions to be answered in regards to where its design came from, what movement it used, and how it got into Scott’s possession in the first place. If you’re an Apollo enthusiast, moonwatch enthusiast, or both, then I’m sure these queries already have the gears turning. But before you move that cursor over to your browser search bar, I strongly suggest you stay right here and check out this editorial piece written back in 2016 by W&W; contributor, Hung Doan, as he covers all the bases in this interesting piece of investigative journalism. Alright, welcome back! Interesting bit of history, right? Dave Scott’s Bulova Worn On The Moon During The Apollo 15 Mission Fast forward to today, Bulova has announced that they are expanding their Lunar Pilot Chronograph line with two brand new models – a black dial and accompanying subdials harkening back to the traditional steel case special edition model and a cream textured dial with navy blue accents. Both variations get a new and improved case that’ll be more suitable for a wider range of wrist sizes, as well as a cleaner dial layou...

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SJX Watches

Audemars Piguet Introduces Feb 3, 2023

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT

Amongst the wave of new Royal Oaks just unveiled by Audemars Piguet (AP) is a new “Concept”, the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT. Historically a platform to showcase novel materials and aggressive design, the new Royal Oak Concept (ROC) continues down that route – but more notably contains an all-new and cleverly-constructed rattrapante chronograph movement with automatic winding. Initial thoughts Much like previous models in the ROC line, the new split-seconds chronograph is a bold statement with a chunky, aggressive case, albeit one refined to become more wearable, especially in light of its size – it is the most wearing Concept to date. Paradoxically, the movement within the large-format case was clearly designed with thinness in mind. For a split-seconds chronograph with a big date, second time zone, and automatic winding, the movement measures a modest 8.92 mm high, svelte by the standards of the complications mix. And in contrast to the design (which brings to mind the Richard Mille RM 11), the movement is unusually refined and clever. An example of is the rotor that’s supported by a large central hub, which provides enough space in the middle to house the entire split-seconds mechanism. This serves to both reduce thickness, while simultaneously offering a view of the rattrapante mechanism without being obstructed by the rotor. Deceptively oversized As with most of its counterparts in the collection, the new ROC has a geometrically-shape...

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Worn & Wound

TAG Heuer Hits Feb 2, 2023

TAG Heuer Hits the Track with New Carrera Chronograph x Porsche Orange Racing

TAG Heuer and Porsche have revealed the latest fruits of their partnership in a new Cerrar Chronograph dubbed the Orange Racing. It’s been two years since the announcement of these two brands coming together once again, which came alongside this Porsche Carrera with road surface textured dial, and the latest member of that family turns up the color for an equal amount of drama. This watch represents the sixth creation of a TAG Heuer x Porsche watch, and while it treads into new territory thanks to its unique colorway, it also carries many of the familiar hallmarks we’ve come to expect from TAG Heuer chronographs.  This Carrera x Porsche Chronograph, much like the examples that came before it, features a full set of applied Arabic numerals around that dial marking each 5 minute segment rather than the hours. This lends itself to the sporty, speedometer-esque feeling of the dial, which in this case, is accentuated by orange outlines defining each area of the dial. The black base of the dial gets a fine vertical brushing that’s noticeable, but doesn’t quite compete with the application of color. The rings of color, which inspire the name of the watch, appear to be something near Porsche’s Lava Orange (paint code M2A), though that specific color isn’t referenced by TAG Heuer. This color lands somewhere between red and orange and obviously works in rather dramatic fashion against the black backdrop of this watch. The dial itself is outlined, as are each of the sub ...

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SJX Watches

Audemars Piguet Introduces Feb 2, 2023

Audemars Piguet Introduces the First All-Ceramic Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph

Amongst the usual Royal Oaks just debuted by Audemars Piguet (AP) is the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph 42mm Black Ceramic. It’s the very first Offshore entirely in ceramic – both the case and bracelet are ceramic, as are the pushers and crown. And like all newer Offshore 42 mm models, it’s powered by the in-house cal. 4404. Initial thoughts The new Offshore is a straightforward proposition – monochromatic in black and white, and mostly ceramic. It’s essentially the original Offshore in a fancier execution, both in terms of materials as well as the movement. So you appreciate the relative simplicity of the original Offshore design, this is easy to like. Part of the appeal comes from the material. The all-black ceramic livery suits the no-frills aesthetic of the original Offshore well. At the same time, AP excels at finishing ceramic so the case and bracelet have the same lustrous surfaces as their metal counterparts. As a result, the watch has a tangible, tactile quality that is appealing. That said, ceramic is slightly glossier than metal, so the brushed surfaces don’t have the same matte finish as the metal equivalents. The only downside is the price – CHF70,000 before taxes. That’s almost double the model in steel and only a little less than the version in rose gold. According to AP that’s due to the difficulty of finishing the ceramic bracelet, but the price is still difficult to rationalise. Ceramic end to end While AP does offer Royal Oa...

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Quill & Pad

Tutima Feb 1, 2023

Tutima Saxon One Chronograph: It Offers A Lot Of Watch For Its Price

The Saxon One Chronograph offers a lot of watch for the price (€4,600). It does so many things so well, but it is most of all, an original proposition. The big question for Martin Green is, strap or bracelet?

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Worn & Wound

Timex Take Jan 23, 2023

Todd Snyder and Timex Take a Crack at the Chronograph with the MK-1 Sky King

Todd Snyder and Timex have this long standing partnership that dates back to 2016 with the release of the MOD watch. Like many of their collaborative pieces, the designs lean strongly on military field watches, vintage cues, and design-forward decisions that are clearly being made by Mr. Todd Snyder himself. The latest collaboration from the two established American brands marks the first time they step into chronograph territory. The new release is dubbed the MK-1 Sky King and comes in two different variations – a coated steel case with a matching black dial and a traditional steel case with what Todd Snyder x Timex is calling a ‘blaze orange’ dial. The MK-1 Sky King has all the hallmarks of a tried and true pilot’s watch. The main one being legibility, and that is highlighted by a bold upright triangle marker at twelve o’clock and accompanying circular hour plots of the same magnitude. Looking closely, you’ll notice that the hour plots get shifted in closer to the center of the dial, and do not reside on the same track as the triangular marker. This decision compresses the dial visually and also offers a bit of a distinctive dial trait. What does reside on the same track as the twelve marker is a fully indexed minute track that encircles the dial with corresponding Arabic numerals at intervals of five. The addition of hash marks between each minute marker gives the appearance of a solid line around the dial at glance and tightens up the dial aesthetically. Th...

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SJX Watches

Seiko Introduces Jan 18, 2023

Seiko Introduces the Prospex Speedtimer Chronograph SRQ045

While Seiko was one of the first watchmakers in the world to launch an automatic chronograph with the ref. 6139 of 1969, the complication is not as synonymous with the brand as say, dive watches. That is due in part to the brand’s sparse offerings in terms of mid- to- high-end mechanical chronographs. But that is slowly changing. After reviving the Speedtimer two years ago, Seiko has just released the latest iteration of the model with the Prospex Speedtimer SRQ045. Benefiting from an all-black makeover, the new Speedtimer is stylish yet functional homage to the stopwatches Seiko made for the 1972 Winter Olympics in Japan. Initial thoughts I wasn’t too impressed by the new Speedtimer initially as it appeared way too similar to the regular-production model. But when I looked closer, I changed my mind. While the new Speedmaster is admittedly one of many retro-styled chronographs introduced by Seiko in the past few years, it’s still an attractive watch. The stark black-and-red livery of the new Speedtimer makes for a formidable racing chronograph; in fact it looks more like sports chronograph than the standard iterations of the model, which feel a bit flat in comparison. The attention to detail in design shows up here better than on other models. Examples of that include the scaled-down minute numerals on the dial and the pump-style pushers. I do wish, however, the seconds hand had a dash of red on its tip to complete the look. That said, the new Speedtimer retains t...

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Time+Tide

Rolex Daytona Dec 24, 2022

Why the Rolex Daytona is still the ultimate chronograph to trigger serious FOMO

When it comes to the world’s most desired timepieces, one name stands head and shoulders above the rest: Rolex. And among the legendary models from the storied marque, the Daytona chronograph is at the top of most enthusiasts’ wish lists. No other chronograph generates the same level of FOMO heat in today’s market, with its … ContinuedThe post Why the Rolex Daytona is still the ultimate chronograph to trigger serious FOMO appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Piaget Introduces Dec 12, 2022

Piaget Introduces the Polo Chronograph “Hope”

A horological influencer in the Middle East, Hassan Akhras is behind the magazine Arab Watch Guide and Arab Watch Club (AWC), a community of collectors in the region. Like other regional clubs, the AWC has its share of limited editions made for its members, with the latest being the Piaget Polo Chronograph “Hope” Arab Watch Club Edition. Made to celebrate the seventh anniversary of the club, the edition is Mr Akhras’ first project with Piaget. Initial thoughts Special editions made for the Middle East usually intrigue me because they often have elements specific to the region, including the familiar Hindu-Arabic numerals on the dial. The Polo “Hope” takes a more subtle approach instead of the more overt styling often found on watches for the region. While the dial is eye-catching in its colour, the Hindu-Arabic numerals are found only on the chronograph registers and date wheel.  Aside from the Hindu-Arabic numerals, the palette makes the Polo “Hope” an attractive watch. It’s distinctly different from the variants of the model to date.  And even in its original form, the Polo S Chronograph has appealing dimensions at 42 mm in diameter and 11.2 mm in height. It’s a large, sporty watch but slim enough to slip underneath a cuff. Sadly, this timepiece is exclusive to its membership of the Arab Watch Club, and all 30 pieces have been sold out. First of many While Piaget has done limited editions for specific countries, the brand had not teamed up with a c...

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Quill & Pad

Dec 10, 2022

Magon Fórsa Titanium Automatic Column Wheel Chronograph By Stephen McGonigle: Incredible Engineering And Unparalleled Quality For The Price - Reprise

Stephen McGonigle, owner and co-founder of McGonigle watches, has been regularly asked by friends and watch aficionados over the years to make something that they could afford – or at least aspire to. Making a relatively affordable watch that he could be proud of was a challenge, but one McGonigle has met with the first watch from his new Magon brand: the Fórsa Titanium, an automatic column wheel chronograph in a distinctive tonneau-shaped case.

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Quill & Pad

Bulgari Dec 6, 2022

Bulgari By Gérald Genta Octo Quadri-Retro Chronograph From 2011: Embodying The Past And A Possible Future Of A Once Imperious Haute Horlogerie Leader

The Bulgari by Gérald Genta Octo Quadri-Retro Chronograph features four retrograde displays and a jumping hour. Even more than its distinctive shape, the Octo Quadri-Retro’s strongest link to its Genta past is the crossfire of snapdragon displays on its sectored face. Tim Mosso dissects the history of this brand using the quirks of this uber-interesting timepiece.

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Time+Tide

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chr... Dec 4, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is a salmon-dialled beauty

While Vacheron Constantin’s contribution to the watch world has mostly been focused on the Overseas and the newly re-introduced 222, the Geneva-based maker has quietly refreshed a highly complicated model. First released in platinum in 2016, and then pink gold a year later, it’s been five years since we saw the last update to the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is a salmon-dialled beauty appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Dec 1, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Titoni Heritage Bicompax Chronograph evokes café racer style

Titoni have evolved many times as a brand, although they’ve always kept up with wristwatch fashion admirably in their century of operation. In fact, it’s hard to believe that their watches aren’t seen more often considering how long they’ve been around. The modern Titoni produce watches of a luxury standard at attainable prices, offering style, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Titoni Heritage Bicompax Chronograph evokes café racer style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Baltic Tricompax Panda Nov 28, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Baltic Tricompax Panda and Reverse Panda deliver retro-fuelled chronograph action

As soon as Baltic unveiled their Tricompax collaboration with Peter Auto, we all held our breath for the standard model to drop and give the masses a taste of the retro-fuelled chronograph action. Now, the Baltic Tricompax Panda and Reverse Panda have been brought into non-limited production giving us two deliciously vintage colour options with … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Baltic Tricompax Panda and Reverse Panda deliver retro-fuelled chronograph action appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Revolution

Angelus x Revolution Chronodate ‘Angels’ Nov 25, 2022

The Angelus x Revolution Chronodate ‘Angels’ Share’ is the Sports Chronograph with a Soft Touch

The Angelus Chronodate that was relaunched this year can trace its roots all the way back to the original Chronodatos from the 1940s, a triple-calendar chronograph that were scarce commodities at the time. Despite retaining the big eye counters and central date indicator, the current Chronodate is resolutely contemporary with a multi-part exoskeleton case made […]

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SJX Watches

TAG Heuer Introduces Nov 23, 2022

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera Chronograph “JPS”

Having just announced a limited edition with a gold case and semiprecious stone dial, TAG Heuer has debuted another all-gold Carrera, the Carrera Chronograph “JPS”. It features an 18k yellow gold case matched with a black-and-gold dial inspired by the 1158 CHN chronograph of the 1970s, a colour combination better known as the “JPS”. That’s is short for John Player Special, a cigarette brand that sponsored the Lotus Formula 1 team in the 1970s. Its brand colours were black and gold, which was also the paintwork for the Lotus race cars. That led to the “JPS” label for the Rolex Daytona in the same colours, though the nickname has since been applied to sports chronographs in the same livery. Initial thoughts The Carrera “JPS” is essentially the same model that’s usually seen in steel, but now given a luxe makeover with a gold case and “JPS” dial. In typical Carrera style it opts for a two-counter look with a “ghost” seconds at six, resulting in a vintage vibe although the case is a very modern and slightly chunky 42 mm in diameter. But the new Carrera really is all about the dial, which is no doubt meant to evoke what is now a million-dollar watch. While the market for vintage Daytonas has plateaued or even declined since its peak four years ago, the Daytona “JPS” has continued to sell for large sums, with a handful crossing the million-dollar mark over the past year. Besides the rarity of the model, the value also reflects the intrinsic appe...

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Revolution

Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Double-sided Nov 16, 2022

Up Close with Grail Watch 2: Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Double-sided Chronograph

Our very first collaboration with Franck Muller is a revival of three iconic 1990s chronographs; the brainchildren of one of the greatest creative minds to have ever worked in the watch industry. This double-sided chronograph is powered by the historically significant, Valjoux-based Caliber 7000, one of Franck’s most highly lauded creations. It features a second […]

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Revolution

Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Tri-compax Nov 16, 2022

Up Close with Grail Watch 2: Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Tri-compax Chronograph

Our very first collaboration with Franck Muller is a revival of three iconic 1990s chronographs; the brainchildren of one of the greatest creative minds to have ever worked in the watch industry. This black dial, three-counter chronograph is powered by the historically significant, NOS Lemania 1874 movement, which has been overhauled, tested and beautifully finished […]

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Revolution

Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Bi-compax Nov 16, 2022

Up Close with Grail Watch 2: Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Bi-compax Chronograph

Our very first collaboration with Franck Muller is a revival of three iconic 1990s chronographs; the brainchildren of one of the greatest creative minds to have ever worked in the watch industry. This silver dial, two-counter chronograph is powered by the historically significant, NOS Lemania 1874 movement, which has been overhauled, tested and beautifully finished […]

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Quill & Pad

MB&F; Nov 10, 2022

Complete List And Photos Of All The Winners At The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): The MB&F; Legacy Machine Sequential Evo Chronograph Wins The Aiguille d’Or

The full prize list and photos from the 2022 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève. The MB&F; Legacy Machine Sequential Evo Chronograph took the Aiguille d'Or.

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Time+Tide

Nov 9, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Delma Montego is a bold chronograph with plenty of macho swagger

A company had to muster real tenacity to make it through the Quartz Crisis, but Delma managed to thrive instead of survive during those tough years, continuing to honour the art of traditional mechanical watchmaking. Despite this, they’re not talked about as much as they perhaps deserve to be, and so we’ve been taking a … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Delma Montego is a bold chronograph with plenty of macho swagger appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Quill & Pad

Oct 18, 2022

Our Predictions In The Chronograph Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): It’s Down To A Pair Of Aces

Is the chronograph still everybody's favorite complication? The brands most certainly think so as a vast number are introduced each year. An the six that are nominated in this category represent the cream of the crop, though our peanut gallery thinks only two are real contenders.

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Time+Tide

Yema Oct 18, 2022

VIDEO: The Le Jour Le Mans Chronograph collection is hotwired with 1960s racing vibes

Having distributed watches for Yema and Heuer in the 1970s alongside producing their own spectacular chronographs, it’s surprising that Le Jour have so far focused on other styles such as their SeaColt and Coral divers. Now, the time has come for them to embrace their true heritage and release the Le Jour Le Mans - … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Le Jour Le Mans Chronograph collection is hotwired with 1960s racing vibes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Tissot s new Telemeter 1938 Oct 16, 2022

Tissot’s new Telemeter 1938 brings vintage style to a thoroughly modern chronograph

Swiss watchmaker Tissot has been the name on everyone’s lips recently since the release of their category-disrupting integrated bracelet juggernaut, the ’70s-tastic PRX. But the brand’s horological history does, of course, go back more than 150 years, all the way to 1853. A page from their rich back catalogue serves as inspiration for their elegant … ContinuedThe post Tissot’s new Telemeter 1938 brings vintage style to a thoroughly modern chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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SJX Watches

Longines Introduces Oct 14, 2022

Longines Introduces the Record Heritage Chronograph

Longines is best known amongst watch enthusiasts for the Heritage collection of vintage remakes. The brand’s other offerings don’t usually enjoy the same level of attention – though the recent Master 190th Anniversary is an exception – so Longines is now adding some vintage flavour into its other lines. The brand’s latest is a mashup of its COSC-certified Record line and the Heritage collection. Unsurprisingly retro with a black gilt dial, the Record Heritage is the first chronograph in the Record collection, up to now comprised entirely of time-and-date chronometers. Initial thoughts Longines’ vintage-inspired chronographs are mostly appealing but Record Heritage still stands out because the brand hasn’t done too many with a black gilt dial. Looking both sporty and elegant, such dials are a favourite amongst collectors when it comes to vintage chronographs, and the look works just as well on a modern-day remake. That also means the Record Heritage is the most eye-catching watch in the Record collection, which was quite mundane until now. And unlike some past remakes that were too chunky, the Record Heritage has modest dimensions that vintage watch enthusiasts will appreciate. The case has good proportions overall and is just 40 mm wide, thought it is slightly thick due to the movement inside. More importantly, the dial has no date window to detract from its vintage aesthetics. Admittedly, the Record Heritage, like all Longines remakes, is neither origin...

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Time+Tide

Hublot x Shepard Fairey Classic Oct 11, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Hublot x Shepard Fairey Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph All Black

Hublot has made a habit of mastering the art of collaboration – art being the operative word. Their creations provide many artist with an inspiring and complex canvas on which to express themselves, whether through colour, texture or material. That creative fusion brought to life by the imagination of an artist continues with their latest … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot x Shepard Fairey Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph All Black appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hodinkee

Glashütte Original Releases Sep 30, 2022

Introducing: Glashütte Original Releases Its First Diver's Chronograph (Live Pics, Pricing)

The new SeaQ Chronograph is big, bold, and blue all over.

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Time+Tide

Sep 6, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Ball Roadmaster Rescue Chronograph in Ice Blue

A common argument against mechanical watches is that they don’t actually have much practical function in a 21st century society. The time can be read with atomic accuracy on a smartphone, and professional divers will almost always choose a modern dive computer over an analogue watch when their life is on the line. The Ball … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Ball Roadmaster Rescue Chronograph in Ice Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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