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Results for Proprietary Gold Alloys

2,429 articles · 566 videos found · page 59 of 100

The Urwerk UR-230 Arrives in White Ceramic Composite SJX Watches
Urwerk UR-230 Arrives Dec 11, 2024

The Urwerk UR-230 Arrives in White Ceramic Composite

Urwerk is best known for its all-black, sci-fi watches, so the UR-230 Polaris departs from the norm. Cased in white ceramic composite, the UR-230 Polaris incorporates several advancement in terms of materials: the white case is milled from a proprietary fibreglass-reinforced ceramic that is more resistant to impact than conventional ceramic. Notably, the material was developed in-house according to Urwerk. Initial thoughts Although Urwerk has introduced many iterations of the UR-210/220/230, the Polaris is arguably the most interesting to date because of the material. It retains the familiar design of the series, but represents an achievement for Urwerk with the proprietary ceramic-fibreglass composite. The fact that Urwerk is going beyond complications and case design is laudable. The composite addresses one of the weakness of pure ceramic, which is vaunted for its durability and immunity to scratches – that very hardness makes it fragile. Dropped onto a hard surface, for instance, ceramic may crack or break. Moreover, such damage is impossible to repair, making case replacement necessary (and inevitably expensive). The UR-230 Polaris is more expensive than the other models in the series that sport conventions case materials. The higher price is arguably justified considering the new material, although if this new material makes its way into more affordable Urwerk models, then the material would lose some of its novelty. Satellite complication Fibreglass-reinforced cera...

Just A Minute With The Casio Casiotron All Black Worn & Wound
Casio Casiotron All Black 1974 Dec 6, 2024

Just A Minute With The Casio Casiotron All Black

1974. The year that launched Skylab 4, The Godfather Part II, and the very first Casio digital watch. Fifty years later, Casio has relaunched the Casiotron for the modern era. With updated sizing, a sleek black and gold color scheme, and a vintage Casiotron logo at 6:00, it’s a bold statement with retro styling to match. The Casio solar quartz 3542 module packs in all the features enthusiasts have come to expect from the brand, a whole suite of features including an alarm, automatic calendar, and world time zone tracker. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. 1974. The year that launched Skylab 4, The Godfather Part II, and the very first Casio digital watch. Fifty years later, Casio has relaunched the Casiotron for the modern era. With updated sizing, a sleek black and gold color scheme, and a vintage Casiotron logo at 6:00, it’s a bold statement with retro styling to match. The Casio solar quartz 3542 module packs in all the features enthusiasts have come to expect from the brand, a whole suite of features including an alarm, automatic calendar, and world time zone tracker. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. The post Just A Minute With The Casio Casiotron All Black appeare...

Up Close: Aigaki Debuts with the Direct-Impulse Tourbillon SJX Watches
Dec 2, 2024

Up Close: Aigaki Debuts with the Direct-Impulse Tourbillon

Founded by a Japanese transplant to Switzerland, Aigaki is making its debut with the impressive Direct-Impulse Tourbillon. Though relatively youthful, brand founder Takahiko Aigaki is a watchmaker of the old school who developed the watch and then makes almost all of it by hand. Produced almost entirely in Takahiko Aigaki’s own home-workshop with hand-operated tools, the Tourbillon is characterised by its hand-engraved silver dial and a finely-finished movement combining unique architecture with a proprietary escapement. Initial thoughts I’ve been following Aigaki on Instagram for several months, having become intrigued by the unusual in-line architecture of the movement, and its symmetrical direct-impulse escapement. Initially, only the movement components were shown, but even this sneak peak was enough to pique my interest. Now that the watch has been unveiled, I feel like it was worth the wait. The Tourbillon is a compact, 37 mm timepiece with a clean aesthetic and domed crystal that lends it something of a vintage feel. On its face, the appearance is simple, but the watch instantly conveys the sensation of a finely-crafted object, especially when you turn it over. But even on the front, the details of the dial give away the fact that it is hand-made. Interestingly, there is no ink or paint used on the dial. All of the dial markings and elements are hand-engraved using traditional tools; the brand name is engraved with a hand-operated pantograph. The Tourbillon is v...

First Look – The Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic is a Genuine Grand Slam Memento Monochrome
Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Nov 27, 2024

First Look – The Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic is a Genuine Grand Slam Memento

Hublot has always been associated with the fusion of disparate materials, starting with Carlo Crocco’s surprising cocktail of a gold case and rubber strap on board the flagship Classic Original. Hublot’s latest watch dedicated to tennis legend Novak Djokovic takes the “art of fusion” to unimaginable levels and even slips in the much-desired sustainability card. […]

New Dials for the Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto SJX Watches
Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Christopher Nov 26, 2024

New Dials for the Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto

Christopher Ward just released the C1 Bel Canto Classic, a new version of its best-selling hourstriker in four colours: silver, blue, green and gold. The Bel Canto Classic retains the familiar design of the original, but gains updated dial aesthetics with laser-etched guilloché, Roman numerals, and a domed “glassbox” sapphire crystal. Initial thoughts A hit at launch thanks to its affordability – and a well-timed debut while pandemic-induced demand was strong – the Bel Canto is now Christopher Ward’s best known model. The reason behind its success is obvious - the striking hour complication is rare and even rarer at an affordable price. Because of the price, the Bel Canto is executed simply and functionally. The base movement is an inexpensive Sellita SW200-1, while the striking module is clever and fairly basic in construction. But the module has been smartly constructed to expose much of the strikework, giving the watch a complex appearance. The hammer and wire gong visible above the dial plate, along with the main operating lever and a column wheel selector. The Bel Canto Classic is essentially an evolution of the original model, with the dial updates giving it a slightly more classical appearance. Priced at US$4,540 on a titanium bracelet, the Bel Canto Classic remains a good value proposition, like the original. Affordable chimes on the hour The Bel Canto Classic retains the same proportions, with the titanium case measuring 41 mm in diameter and 13.2 mm ...

The Fratello Watch List - Nacho’s Pre-Owned And Vintage Favorites From Breitling, Rolex, Omega, And Cartier Fratello
Breitling Rolex Omega Nov 25, 2024

The Fratello Watch List - Nacho’s Pre-Owned And Vintage Favorites From Breitling, Rolex, Omega, And Cartier

The thrill of the chase is often greater than that of the catch. It’s a simple cliche yet one that likely resonates with most watch collectors and enthusiasts. We’ve all been there, spending our evenings scrolling through listings of a very specific or purposefully ambiguous search, hoping to strike gold. As a result of these […] Visit The Fratello Watch List - Nacho’s Pre-Owned And Vintage Favorites From Breitling, Rolex, Omega, And Cartier to read the full article.

A Grand Seiko 44GS in Purple-Pink Only for Asia SJX Watches
Grand Seiko 44GS Nov 21, 2024

A Grand Seiko 44GS in Purple-Pink Only for Asia

Grand Seiko marks the second anniversary of its establishment in the Asia-Pacific with the Heritage Collection 44GS “Fuji” SBGJ285. Featuring a purple-pink dial inspired by the wisteria flower, this limited edition is based on the reinterpretation of the vintage 44GS and its distinctive wide-flanked case. The case and bracelet are in Ever-Brilliant steel, a proprietary steel alloy that’s harder and shinier than conventional watchmaking steel. Powered by the high-frequency automatic cal. 9S86, the SBGJ285 features “true GMT” functionality with an independently adjustable hour hand. Initial thoughts As a long-time fan of Grand Seiko, I love the patterned dials and Zaratsu case polishing. The SBGJ285 exemplifies the essence of Grand Seiko. Though Grand Seiko does put out a significant number of limited editions, this one stands out for its unusual purple-pink colour, which is a different shade from the “salmon” dials that are now in vogue. The watch also reflects the brand’s traditional strengths and weaknesses. The case and dial finishing are excellent, particularly at this price point. However, the bracelet is not as refined as sophisticated as that of the competition. That said, this will look good on a leather strap, especially given the vintage-inspired 44GS case pairs well with a strap. Conveniently, this limited edition is delivered with both a steel bracelet and a calfskin strap. Wisteria flower The limited edition retains the standard case of the “...

Introducing: The Space-Inspired Czapek Antarctique Purple Storm Limited Edition Fratello
Czapek Antarctique Purple Storm Limited Nov 20, 2024

Introducing: The Space-Inspired Czapek Antarctique Purple Storm Limited Edition

The shape of the case and bracelet on Czapek’s Antarctique has remained unchanged since its introduction in 2020. There are versions in stainless steel, gold, and titanium, for example, but they all share the same attractive and popular integrated construction. The Antarctique’s dial, on the other hand, seems more like a blank canvas that gets […] Visit Introducing: The Space-Inspired Czapek Antarctique Purple Storm Limited Edition to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Black Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton Fratello
Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Nov 15, 2024

Hands-On With The New Black Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton

Back in April 2024, I had a chance to check out the olive-green version of the Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton. While that earlier release walked a fine line between a saturated green and warm gray, today’s new watch takes a stealthier black approach. But don’t let that fool you because the rose gold […] Visit Hands-On With The New Black Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton to read the full article.

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Greater China SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Nov 14, 2024

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Greater China

Audemars Piguet (AP) debuts an entirely new look for its thinnest-ever perpetual with the  Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Greater China. Crafted entirely in yellow gold in a first for the model, the limited edition even sports a gilded dial with matching yellow gold moon disc. Initial thoughts The Royal Oak is inarguably the face of AP. And amongst Royal Oak models, the ultra-thin perpetual calendar stands out for its technical sophistication. Derived from the Royal Oak RD#2 concept watch, the Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin has a cleverly engineered movement that spreads out the calendar mechanism to minimise its height. That results in a slim case that enhances the proportions of the Royal Oak design. The signature starry moon phase features yellow gold-toned moons The Greater China edition is a major departure from the grey and blue tones of the prior two versions. It’s loud and definitely not for everyone, but it does look good. At the same time, it also references vintage Royal Oak perpetual calendar models that featured similar all-gold livery. Though the price is only on request, the Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin mode in general is pricey, arguably more expensive than it should be in fact, but it looks and feels great on the wrist. Yellow moons Crafted from 18k yellow gold, the ultra-thin yellow gold case is 41 mm in diameter and 6.2 mm in thickness. Water resistant to only 20 m due to its thinness, the case is finished in traditional Royal Oak style, wit...

Introducing – The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Line Expands with New Ceramic Models Monochrome
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Line Nov 12, 2024

Introducing – The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Line Expands with New Ceramic Models

A classic from Blancpain‘s range of sports watches, the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe is a sleeker and more daily-oriented vision of a dive watch. Available in a host of materials (titanium, gold or ceramic), in various sizes and with an array of complications, the brand now returns to classic functions with two new time-and-date editions and […]

Video: The Ulysse Nardin Freak Family: Find The Freak In You Fratello
Ulysse Nardin Freak Family Find Nov 10, 2024

Video: The Ulysse Nardin Freak Family: Find The Freak In You

It’s not often you find yourself surrounded by no fewer than six Freaks. It happened to me recently. I did receive a warning that the watches were on the way, but how do you prepare for something like that? That’s why, when I unpacked the box and had the pink gold Freak S, Freak S […] Visit Video: The Ulysse Nardin Freak Family: Find The Freak In You to read the full article.

Louis Erard’s Régulateur with an Engraved, Gilt Dial SJX Watches
Louis Erard s Régulateur Nov 7, 2024

Louis Erard’s Régulateur with an Engraved, Gilt Dial

The Le Régulateur Gravé Noir is a vintage-inspired take on Louis Erard’s signature regulator wristwatch. The “sector” dial has a grained black finish with engraved markings that are gold-plated, bringing to mind vintage “gilt” dials. Part of the brand’s Noirmont Métiers d’Art collection, the new Le Régulateur shares the same case design and specifications with the recent “Grand Feu” Enamel Regulator. Initial thoughts While Louis Erard is best known for its collaboration with independent watchmakers, such as Konstantin Chaykin and Kudoke, it offers a wider range of accessibly-priced regulator-style watches. And the Le Régulateur Gravé Noir is no different. It’s a fresh take on the vintage-inspired “sector” dial, combining the signature regulator display with rose-gilt engraved markings on a grained black dial. Priced at CHF2,900, the Gravé Noir stays within Louis Erard’s typical price range. It stands out from the competition in this price segment with the unconventional time display on a vintage-inspired dial. Like the brand’s other offerings, it is good value. It also shares the weaknesses of Louis Erard’s other regulator models, namely a thick case. Sector dial The Gravé Noir has the same dimensions as the rest of the Le Régulateur line with a simple, polished steel case measuring 39 mm by 12.82 mm. Inside is a self-winding Sellita SW266-1 that sports a rotor with the brand logo but is otherwise no frills. The movement has 38 hour...

Introducing: The New Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 Fratello
Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante Nov 7, 2024

Introducing: The New Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887

Seven years ago, Breguet introduced the flagship model of its Marine collection, the Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887. Two versions debuted in 2017 - one in 18K rose gold with a silver dial and the other in platinum with a blue dial. In 2020, another rose gold version joined the Marine collection, this time, with a […] Visit Introducing: The New Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Steel, Black, Green, And Utterly Charming Laventure Transatlantique II GMT Fratello
Nov 5, 2024

Hands-On With The Steel, Black, Green, And Utterly Charming Laventure Transatlantique II GMT

Laventure introduced its Transatlantique II GMT this past June. Since then, the brown versions in steel and steel and gold already sold out. Those models were limited to 99 and 50 pieces, respectively. The black and green version in steel is only limited by the brand’s production capacity. It’s probably the first time that one […] Visit Hands-On With The Steel, Black, Green, And Utterly Charming Laventure Transatlantique II GMT to read the full article.

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 “Third Series” Black Dial, Breguet Numerals SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 2499 “Third Series” Nov 4, 2024

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 “Third Series” Black Dial, Breguet Numerals

Sotheby’s upcoming Geneva auction includes Treasures of Time, a small but impressive collection of watches consigned by a European gentleman of evidently sophisticated taste. While the most valuable of the 31 lots in the collection is a first-series ref. 2499 in pink gold, the most striking watch is arguably this Patek Philippe ref. 2499 third series with a glossy black dial featuring Breguet numerals. Only six examples of the ref. 2499 are known to have a black dial, and this is one of them. The black dial with Breguet numerals gives the watch tremendous appeal and presence on the wrist. Beautiful as it is, however, this ref. 2499 is not absolute perfect from a historical perspective as the black dial was added long after the watch was made. The watch was originally sold by Patek Philippe in 1964, probably with the typical silver dial, and it gained this black dial sometime in the 1980s. According to its well documented history, the owner of the watch in the 1980s was an important enough collector that when he asked for a black dial with Breguet numerals, Patek Philippe said yes. The dial was thus produced by Stern Frères and installed in the watch. It’s worth noting that most of the six known ref. 2499s with a black dial have a similar history in that the black dials were subsequent additions. Though it’s clearly not a vintage dial, Stern Frères executed it well. The dial is finished with a glossy black lacquer and gold powder print, while the indices are applie...

REVIEW: Hands On With The Breitling Super Chronomat Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary WatchAdvice
Breitling Super Chronomat Perpetual Calendar Oct 30, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Breitling Super Chronomat Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary

With major wrist presence and even more cool factor, we’ve gone hands-on with the 140th Anniversary Breitling Super Chronomat Perpetual Calendar! What We Love: The rose gold and black colour combination looks great The skeleton dial gives depth and character to the piece The Rouleaux-style rubber strap is comfortable and so easy to wear. What We Don’t: The onion crown can be a little finicky to unscrew/screw It won’t fit or suit all wrist sizes being 44mm The dial can appear busy at first glance Overall Rating: 8.625/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 As you may well have heard, this year marks the 140th Anniversary of Breitling. It’s a big birthday for the brand, now headed up by Georges Kern, who in recent years has gone back through the history of Breitling and helped to re-define the brand. With new models that harken back to its past, and the vision that Leon Breitling had all the way back in 1884, through to when his son, Gaston took over the business and launched their patented chronograph in 1932, to the days of the icons under Willy Breitling, it’s no wonder there is such a large and illustrious back catalogue to take inspiration from! So celebrate its 140th Anniversary, Breitling released three perpetual calendars, at Geneva Watch Days 2024 – A Premier, Navitimer and Super Chronomat. According to Georges Kern, they couldn’t do justice to the 140 years of history with just one watch, so they went with th...

Chasing My Doubts And Blues Away With The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Blue” Boutique Edition Fratello
Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Blue” Oct 29, 2024

Chasing My Doubts And Blues Away With The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Blue” Boutique Edition

I am a big fan of the Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition,” but the Black Bay Chrono? Not so much. Neither the black and white versions nor the steel and gold model ever struck a chord with me. And the pink version? Well, once I saw it on a wrist in Geneva, it made […] Visit Chasing My Doubts And Blues Away With The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Blue” Boutique Edition to read the full article.

REVIEW: Hands On With The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport Oct 20, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport

The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport is a piece that isn’t for the faint of heart, and is aimed squarely at those who appreciate motorsport – so we thought we would test drive this in the real world to see how it performs. What We Love: The bold design elements The rose gold case paired with the black accents Super comfortable piece to wear What We Don’t: The 44mm size won’t suit all wrist sizes Lack of a screw-down crown on a sports piece Lack of detailing and design on the rubber strap Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8/10 TAG Heuer’s motorsport roots are well-known, to the point where if you don’t associate TAG Heuer with motorsport, then I’d say that you’re probably also unaware of the brand. Ok, I’m being a little facetious here, but you get my point. The fact that they have a watch named after an F1 race (The Monaco) and another that was designed in 1963 after Jack Heuer was enamoured by the Carrera Panamericana race in Mexico (The Carrera) should give this away, but also highlights the brand’s close ties with motor racing. This is no more evidenced by the fact that TAG Heuer will be taking over from Rolex as the official timing partner for Formula 1 from 2025 for the next 10 years as part of the deal between Formula 1 and LVMH. Global Luxury Giant LVMH Inks A Historic 10-Year Deal With Formula 1 So it comes as no surprise that last month in early September, TAG Heuer lau...