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Results for Swiss vs Japanese Watchmaking

4,970 articles · 39 videos found · page 59 of 167

Auction Watch: Philippe Dufour Simplicity Sells for Record US$662,000 SJX Watches
Oct 9, 2020

Auction Watch: Philippe Dufour Simplicity Sells for Record US$662,000

Sotheby’s fall watch auction in Hong Kong included a diverse selection of independent watchmaking, including two examples of the Philippe Dufour Simplicity, both with silver guilloche dials. The first to go on the block was a 37 mm specimen in white gold with a movement number of 68. It sold to a client represented by Joey Luk of Sotheby’s watch department for HK$3.528m including fees, which is a little over US$455,000. That was substantially above the US$250,000-300,000 range that the Simplicity had generally sold for, setting a new record for the model. The next lot was a 34 mm Simplicity in platinum, numbered “100”. And then the record was broken. After a few minutes of back and forth between an online bidder, as well as phone bidders represented by Ms Luk and John Chan, also of Sotheby’s watch department, Mr Chan’s bidder triumphed with a bid of HK$4.1m. Inclusive of fees, the total was HK$5.136m, or about US$662,000, well over double the most recent high for the Simplicity. Part of the reason behind the price is rarity, not only absolute but also relative to other Simplicities. Platinum is unquestionably the rarest metal version for the watch, and 34 mm examples is are regarded to be fewer than 37 mm. The record price for both watches bode well for the Simplicity 20th Anniversary “00/20” – fresh from maker and offered by Mr Dufour himself – that will be sold at Phillips’ November auction in Geneva.  

Franck Muller Introduces the Cintrée Curvex Master Banker Asia Exclusive SJX Watches
Franck Muller Introduces Sep 14, 2020

Franck Muller Introduces the Cintrée Curvex Master Banker Asia Exclusive

A pioneer in independent watchmaking, Franck Muller was most famous for its graceful tonneau-shaped case but the brand was also particularly productive with complications in the 1990s and early 2000s. Amongst its most notable inventions were the double-face chronograph and whimsical Crazy Hours. But the brand’s technical creativity was present at the other end of utility spectrum as well – something exemplified by the Master Banker, a wristwatch unveiled in 1993 that boasted three separate time zones, each with independent hours and minutes. Now the watch has been given a new lease of life as the Cintrée Curvex Master Banker Asia Exclusive, that’s available in two case sizes, seven distinct colours, and various case materials, including steel, rose gold, and diamond-set rose gold. Initial thoughts Although powered by a humble ETA base movement, the Master Banker is a surprisingly accomplished complication, yet smartly constructed to be simple and robust. The time zone complication is practical for tracking times in multiple countries, but it is rarely instantly legible, especially when multiple time zones are displayed. With two largish sub-dials – each with their own hour and minute hands – the Master Banker solves the problem instantly. Not only is it legible, each of its sub-dials can be set to time zones with unconventional offsets – like 45 minutes for Kathmandu – allowing the watch to track any time zone in the world. The only downside of the display ...

In-Depth: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Aug 18, 2020

In-Depth: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE

In a year that’s been short on really exciting watches, a contender for watch of the year – or more specifically, movement of the year – has just been unveiled by Ferdinand Berthoud. Equipped with both a remontoir d’egalite as well as chain and fusee, the Chronomètre FB 2RE is a strikingly impressive example of contemporary watchmaking inspired by the past. More importantly, it features a movement that’s executed to an immensely high standard, one that is just wonderful to look at. At the same, the round-cased FB 2RE also addresses the primary shortcoming of the earlier Ferdinand Berthoud FB1, namely its odd aesthetics due to the case shape. Initial thoughts I have always been impressed by Ferdinand Berthoud watches, though I was never a fan of its octagon case. And based on my conversations with collectors, I was not the only one hoping for a more conventional case shape. Now it has arrived, and the FB 2RE does not disappoint. I managed to examine the finished watch up close several months ago, and the quality of execution, inside and out, is remarkable. The movement certainly holds its own against the very best of the independent watchmakers, like Greubel Forsey for instance. It is that good. My first thought when I saw the watch: it is certainly a project driven by passion, rather than sensible commercial instinct, one reason, perhaps, it is so good. Not only is it extremely well made and esoteric in its mechanical features, the FB 2RE will be made in tiny ...

Richard Mille Introduces the RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograph GMT SJX Watches
Richard Mille Introduces Jul 13, 2020

Richard Mille Introduces the RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograph GMT

A star of contemporary watchmaking as a result of its consistent innovation in unusual, lightweight materials, Richard Mille watches have a unique style that is instantly recognisable. A bestseller that’s arguably the brand’s signature watch, the  RM 11 is large, technical-looking, and now in its fifth generation. The RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograph GMT is the latest to join the RM 11 line-up, which was first launched over a decade now but regularly face-lifted. Limited to 140 pieces and powered by the same RMAC3 calibre found in its predecessors, the RM 11-05 continues Richard Mille’s material-centric design with a case in grey cermet. Initial thoughts Richard Mille watches are unfailing bold, and often extravagant; the RM 11-05 sticks to that formula and is immediately identifiable. It is a modest, incremental change over earlier RM 11 variants, so it doesn’t offer substantial novelty. But for a fan of the brand and its trademark style, it is very much the traditional Richard Mille look and feel. Blending metal and ceramic The RM 11-05 is novel in its case material – surprising since the brand seems to have used every conceivable modern material – which is grey cermet case, a first for Richard Mille. A contraction of ceramic and metal, cermet is a composite of ceramic and metal alloy, resulting in a material that combines the properties of the two. Cermet is more commonly employed in  ballistic protection and aerospace components. Although the m...

The Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon Aventurine Deployant
Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon Aventurine Jul 4, 2020

The Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon Aventurine

The HM Perpetual Moon Aventurine offers a spectacular solid gold moon phase sitting above the sparkling blue aventurine quartz dial and paired with an in-house Arnold & Son mechanical calibre. Demonstrating its British history and Swiss savoir-faire, Arnold & Son presents the HM Perpetual Moon with a beautifully decorative blue aventurine quartz dial, limited toRead More

Pandemic Truths - Edouard Meylan of H. Moser & Cie. SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Apr 17, 2020

Pandemic Truths - Edouard Meylan of H. Moser & Cie.

A time of crisis is always a good moment to reflect – especially when confined to the home – so we spoke with key personalities in watchmaking to see what they’re doing. As the pandemic-inflected reality faced by major brands and independents are necessarily different, here are the views from one of the big “small” brands, H. Moser & Cie. Its young and straight-forward chief executive, Edouard Meylan, answers our questions, in part one of Pandemic Truths. Like almost everyone at the moment, Edouard is working from home, which is just a few minutes away from the H. Moser & Cie. factory in Schaffhausen. Edouard’s work-from-home desk. Photo – Edouard Meylan How does this crisis impacted your business, in productions, distribution, or people? Obviously, this crisis has a global impact as it creates uncertainty in both supply and demand. How can I produce watches when my suppliers are closed and I want to make sure my employees are safe? And even if I were able to produce, where do I sell when all my stores and distributors are closed? Today only four of my retailers are still open. But it is probably easier for us as we can easily ship directly to consumers. We have been very lucky to exhibit during the Dubai watch exhibitions [primarily LVMH Watch Week] early in January. We were able to introduce our novelties and get pre-orders. We are delivering them today, so business is almost as usual for the moment. We have launched our certified pre-owned platform last m...

Up Close: J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series SJX Watches
Shapiro Infinity Series Dec 13, 2019

Up Close: J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series

An educator by profession, Josh Shapiro had a longtime interest in watchmaking, which sharpened into a pursuit of traditional engine turning in 2013. After several years of practice – and a roomful of guilloche machines – the self-taught guillocheur and watchmaker produced a handful of dials for American watchmaker David Walter in 2016. And last year Josh launched his own brand, J.N. Shapiro, which he now pursues full-time, while remaining a part-time vice principal at a high school in Los Angeles. His debut watch was the Infinity Series, named after the Infinity Weave, a proprietary guilloche pattern he invented. The first J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series delivered, the watch pictured here, was finished earlier this year – and is numbered “N.01”. Though Josh offers a variety of options for the case and dial colours, this watch hews closely to the prototype, with a rose gold case, silver dial, and blue hands. It’s important to note this is actually the first watch Josh sold, and consequently shows some of the inevitable inconsistencies of a watchmaker’s early work. There are a couple of stray marks and burrs on the dial, and a bit of lint, but the early work of independent watchmakers is usually inconsistent, which is part of the hand-finished charm, and also proof of how artisans evolve. Josh’s subsequent dials have improved tremendously. Josh Shapiro with one of his straight-line machines. Photo – J.N. Shapiro The Infinity Series has a simple but effect...

The Most Expensive Watch Ever - Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime in Steel for CHF31m SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Nov 9, 2019

The Most Expensive Watch Ever - Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime in Steel for CHF31m

The Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A made for Only Watch 2019 has just made history by selling for 31m Swiss francs – selling to a new face at watch auctions – topping the 23m francs achieved by the Henry Graves Supercomplication and the 17m francs of Paul Newman’s “Paul Newman” Daytona. Before the Grandmaster Chime sold for the record-setting sum, I wrote: A major, outsized finish of 12m or 15m francs, or even more, is possible but only likely if an unexpected, deep-pocketed bidder buys the watch, or manages to push the winner further than expected. I was way off the mark value-wise, but at least half right. The bidding opened with room bids, first a 5m franc bid from gem dealer and auction veteran Claude Sfeir, followed by 10m francs from a prominent SE Asian collector. But the action swiftly moved to phone bidders, all bidding via Christie’s representatives, including Stéphane Von Bueren of the watch department in Geneva. It was a prolonged tussle – with bidding rising in 500,000 franc increments – between Mr Von Bueren’s client and another represented by Wei-Ting Jud of Christie’s London. Once bidding hit 17m francs, there was brief applause as the watch topped the record of Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona. At 22.5m francs, a new bidder jumped in, represented by Max Fawcett of Christie’s Geneva. From there it was Mr Fawcett against Ms Jud – and another round of applause when the watch surpassed the record set by the Graves Supercompli...

Mixing business with pleasure in the form of the Longines Record in steel and gold Time+Tide
Longines Record Jun 26, 2019

Mixing business with pleasure in the form of the Longines Record in steel and gold

Just the other day, Sandra was opining about the changing face of two-tone, and today this fine example of modern bi-colour watches hits the proverbial desk. The Record collection is Longines’ line of dressy daily wearers that offer a great entry point into some pretty serious mechanical watchmaking. And that’s because every single watch in the … ContinuedThe post Mixing business with pleasure in the form of the Longines Record in steel and gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LIST: 6 of the best Longines Heritage releases Time+Tide
Longines Heritage releases Right now Sep 7, 2018

LIST: 6 of the best Longines Heritage releases

Right now in the world of watchmaking, there’s a distinctly warm and fuzzy feeling of nostalgia in the air. A sentiment that is owed in no small part to Longines, who more than 10 years ago pioneered the popular heritage reissue trend we all know and love today. With a history that stretches back over … ContinuedThe post LIST: 6 of the best Longines Heritage releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Alpina Launches Comtesse Lady Collection with Top Skier Tina Maze Revolution
Alpina Launches Comtesse Lady Collection Feb 16, 2015

Alpina Launches Comtesse Lady Collection with Top Skier Tina Maze

Founded in 1883, Alpina is an independent, family-owned pioneer in the field of Swiss sports watches. Embracing that heritage, the brand teamed up with world-renowned, multi-gold-medal-winning skier Tina Maze to launch its new Comtesse Lady line during the FIS Alpine World Ski Championships in Vail, Colorado, which concluded February 15. Alpina first launched its Comtesse […]

BaselWorld 2013: TAG Heuer’s Tech Guru Guy Semon Introduces The MikropendulumS Revolution
TAG Heuer s Tech Guru Guy Apr 28, 2013

BaselWorld 2013: TAG Heuer’s Tech Guru Guy Semon Introduces The MikropendulumS

Superlatives are tricky things but we feel safe in saying the MikropendulumS, a new concept watch from TAG Heuer, and developed by their Vice President of Science and Engineering Guy Semon and his R&D; team, is perhaps the most radical departure from conventional watchmaking solutions we’ve seen yet, keeping company with such bleeding edge experiments […]

Industrial Artisanship and the Paradox of Independence SJX Watches
Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar ref 1h ago

Industrial Artisanship and the Paradox of Independence

Independent watchmaking is often discussed as a world apart from the work of major brands. But the distinction becomes less clear when we look at how specific watches are made and who makes them, especially when it comes to artisanal watchmaking within industrial brands. From this perspective, the qualities that once distinguished the work of independent watchmakers are increasingly evident within major brands. Yet historical manufactures remain under-appreciated for exceptional hand finishing, distinctive movement architecture, and small-scale production that would attract considerable attention with an independent’s name on the dial. An objective measure Back in 2022, we published a widely cited market map of the fine watchmaking sector based on the concept of watchmaker-hours. The goal was to look beyond brand positioning and establish an objective, quantitative basis for comparing different approaches to production. The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst is a prime example of small-scale artisanal watchmaking taking place within a larger organisation The methodology was simple: take a company’s available employee hours — essentially the headcount multiplied by the number of hours in the working year — and divide it by its total output, in terms of watches per year. The result is a theoretical maximum number of human hours available for each watch. The cal. 31-260 inside the Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar ref. 5236P typifies the industrial-haut...

Introducing - Oris Aquis Date Kelp Forest Limited Edition Monochrome
Oris Aquis Date Kelp Forest 8h ago

Introducing - Oris Aquis Date Kelp Forest Limited Edition

Oris supports environmental causes through its watches, like the Aquis Date Yangtze Jiangtun or the New York Harbour limited editions, participating in projects dedicated to protecting marine ecosystems and bringing attention to issues beyond watchmaking. The new Aquis Date Kelp Forest Limited Edition is made with Francis Pérez, the award-winning underwater photographer and long-time Oris […]

Happenings: "George Daniels 100" Exhibition To Celebrate The Legendary Watchmaker With Some Of His Rarest Pieces In Singapore Hodinkee
11h ago

Happenings: "George Daniels 100" Exhibition To Celebrate The Legendary Watchmaker With Some Of His Rarest Pieces In Singapore

There's no such thing as overdoing the celebration of the impact of George Daniels on the horological landscape, especially in the year that marks the 100th anniversary of his birth. Coinciding with the opening of IAMWATCH in Singapore, a celebration of the modern independent watchmaking scene, a scene that would likely not exist if not for Daniels—Phillips and The Hour Glass are exhibiting 22 of his watches. That list, which hasn't fully been made public, includes—for the first time—reuniting the Space Traveller I and Daniels' personal Space Traveller II. Photo courtesy Phillips and The Hour Glass. The fact that there will be twenty-two of Daniels' watches in one place is even more remarkable considering that, during his lifetime, Daniels alone made only twenty-four pocket watches and two wristwatches (the Spring Case Tourbillon and the Four-Minute Tourbillon) before the Millennium and Anniversary done with Roger W. Smith (not accounting for some other pieces that were made by Smith under Daniels' direction). For acolytes of Daniels, lovers of horology, and people who appreciate once-in-a-lifetime opportunities, the exhibition in Singapore is something you can't miss. Luckily, you'll have at least two chances to see the exhibition. Photo courtesy the George Daniels Educational Trust. For even more context, the Space Traveller and Space Traveller II are particularly important watches in the annals of watchmaking history. Both were made in 1982; the first was made and...

The Vaer x Topo x W&W; Solar Hiker Returns for 2026 Worn & Wound
13h ago

The Vaer x Topo x W&W; Solar Hiker Returns for 2026

The Solar Hiker returns for 2026 with two new colorways, updated straps, and a new custom carrying case. A triple-brand collaboration between Vaer, Topo Designs, and Worn & Wound, the Solar Hiker brings together expertise in watchmaking, outdoor goods design, and storytelling. Built for adventure, it combines the legibility of a classic field watch with the durability of a dive watch, all powered by the sun. Limited to 1,200 pieces. The post The Vaer x Topo x W&W; Solar Hiker Returns for 2026 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Introducing - A new Gold Tone for the Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Zeitgeist 1665 3N Monochrome
Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Zeitgeist Yesterday

Introducing - A new Gold Tone for the Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Zeitgeist 1665 3N

The Mirrored Force Resonance by independent watchmaking brand Armin Strom is, without a doubt, one of the most fascinating watches of recent years. Its spectacular movement builds on an idea first explored in 1665, when Christiaan Huygens observed the synchronisation of two pendulum clocks: resonance. First unveiled in 2016, Armin Strom refined the century-old concept […]

Ode to a Legend with the Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo Worn & Wound
Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo Hublot Yesterday

Ode to a Legend with the Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo

Hublot is a brand that has long endured scrutiny for its bold and out-of-the-box approach to watchmaking, and frankly, I’ve never quite understood why the industry and the collector sphere has relentlessly put the brand under fire. In many other instances, brands have been revered for being a disrupter, so why not Hublot? The inaugural design that launched the brand back in 1980 was the first to combine a precious metal case with a rubber strap, laying the foundation for what the brand now calls the “Art of Fusion.” However, you have to understand that at the time, this was both risky and revelatory – rubber straps weren’t nearly as prevalent as they are today, and pairing one with a precious metal as opposed to stainless steel was unheard of. Now, we see rubber straps in most brands’ repertoires often combined with a precious metal. So, in fact, Hublot set the standard for something that was once audacious but now commonplace and considered totally “normal” (whatever normal really means) – maybe we should give Hublot a little more credit and not be so quick to judge. Today, we are fully celebrating that model that started it all – at the time, called the Classic Original and now known as the Classic Fusion with the aptly named Tributo. Beyond the innovative combination of materials, the original composition established some specific design codes, including the porthole shaped case with 12 prominent screws securing the bezel framing a plain and totally ...

Introducing - The Semi-Openworked Version Watches V0201-TH, now on Kickstarter Monochrome
Yesterday

Introducing - The Semi-Openworked Version Watches V0201-TH, now on Kickstarter

Version Watches is a young independent brand founded in 2024 founded by a feminine duo, Cybèle Vigneron and Carla Lafranchini. Version creates Swiss-made watches that are classic with a twist, exploring the idea of transparency and suggestion through its signature semi-openworked dials. The brand now comes with its second collection following the V01-LLC that reached […]

Introducing - Union Glashütte brings the More Compact Belisar Chronograph Speedster 2026 Monochrome
Union Glashütte Yesterday

Introducing - Union Glashütte brings the More Compact Belisar Chronograph Speedster 2026

Founded in 1893 by Johannes Dürrstein in the Saxon town of Glashütte, Union Glashütte set out to make high-quality German watchmaking accessible to a wider audience. Today, part of the Swatch Group, the brand combines traditional craftsmanship with distinctive design and value for money. Its affinity for classic cars is captured in the retro Belisar […]

Hands-On: The New Louis Vuitton Monterey In Green And Black Ceramic Fratello
Louis Vuitton Monterey Yesterday

Hands-On: The New Louis Vuitton Monterey In Green And Black Ceramic

Names of Swiss watch brands and models can be tricky to pronounce, especially the French ones. Does the name Jay-Jay Le Coot ring a bell? I will let you figure it out and bring up another name. It’s now an official name, but it stems from the trouble some had in pronouncing the original. In […] Visit Hands-On: The New Louis Vuitton Monterey In Green And Black Ceramic to read the full article.

Getting Some Hands-On Time With The New Orient Flusso Fratello
Orient 2 days ago

Getting Some Hands-On Time With The New Orient Flusso

Last month, Orient launched the new Flusso, an integrated-bracelet sports watch inspired by the brand’s historic Super King (“SK”) models. The watch combines vintage influences with a contemporary design language, signaling a fresh direction for the Japanese manufacturer. I covered the launch when it was announced, but shortly after that article went live, the watch […] Visit Getting Some Hands-On Time With The New Orient Flusso to read the full article.

First Look - Frederique Constant Dresses Its Attainable Perpetual Calendar in Burgundy Monochrome
Frederique Constant Dresses 4 days ago

First Look - Frederique Constant Dresses Its Attainable Perpetual Calendar in Burgundy

Frederique Constant is known to make traditionally expensive watchmaking complications more accessible. Its Manufacture Perpetual Calendar, first introduced in 2016, was a QP priced well below that of many established competitors. In 2025, the watch received an update: a more refined 40mm case and a revised movement, with a power reserve extended to 72 hours. […]

Christopher Ward Introduces the C1 Loco Classic Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Introduces 5 days ago

Christopher Ward Introduces the C1 Loco Classic

Today, Christopher Ward officially introduces what some might call one of the worst kept secrets in indie watchmaking. We all knew that a dressy version of the brand’s Loco was coming – their British Watchmakers’ Day limited edition kind of gave it away. No one really thought that would be a one off, right? The all new C1 Loco Classic arrives as a fully formed product line within the brand’s Atelier lineup, and offers collectors who might have bristled at the aggressively sporty, angular C12 Loco a more refined option built on the same caliber with the same dramatic architecture.  The C1 Loco Classic is built on a 41mm 904L stainless steel “Light-catcher” case with a mix of high polished surfaces and contrasting brushed elements. The case features a pronounced groove running through the middle section, following through to the lugs, and has a curvy, rounded appearance. It’s a thick case, measuring a total of 14.1mm tall, but over 5mm of that height belongs to the domed crystal – Christopher Ward says the case itself is 8.55mm thick. Despite its overall height, Christopher Ward has gone to great lengths to create a softer and more organic shape for the Loco Classic, and while it might not work on every wrist, visually it certainly meets the brief of a more refined Loco.  As an owner of a C12 Loco, I can say that while I enjoy the case quite a bit, the real draw of the watch is the movement and the dial, and the way those two aspects of the piece are integr...

Introducing - Urwerk Reconfigures its Time Display with the UR-300 Time Quantum Monochrome
Urwerk Reconfigures 5 days ago

Introducing - Urwerk Reconfigures its Time Display with the UR-300 Time Quantum

Since its foundation in 1997, Urwerk has looked at mechanical watchmaking from a very unconventional perspective. Co-founders Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei have developed an unmistakable style, with satellite hours, wandering displays, and retrograde indications. Their watches frequently take inspiration from astronomy, but the new UR-300 Time Quantum looks not to heavenly bodies but to […]