Hodinkee
Recommended Reading: Meet The Five Finalists In The Wristcheck X AP Royal Oak Competition
Each of the designs offer a fresh take on a familiar watch.
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Worn & Wound
On-Wrist Reaction: Norqain Gets Wild, & Two Takes On The GMT
In this episode of On-Wrist Reaction, we take a look at three watches that bring three distinct flavors to the table, and all manage to make a compelling case in their own way. We start with something entirely new and slightly unexpected from a brand called Lorca, who have designed an elegant take on the GMT that would feel as at home in a cocktail bar as it would in the field. Next is a new GMT from Nodus, offering plenty of style and function for the money, it’s the Sector GMT. Finally, we have the Norqain Wild One, featuring Norqain’s new material, Norteq. We have a deeper look at all three watches coming soon, but until then you can see our initial reactions in the video below. You can see Zach Kazan’s introduction of the Norqain Wild One, including thoughts from Jean-Claude Biver, live from Switzerland right here. If you have any questions or thoughts on these watches that you’d like to see addressed in our reviews, be sure to let us know in the comments. Furthermore, if you have a watch or a piece of gear you’d like to see us react to, please reach out to us at info@wornandwound.com. The post On-Wrist Reaction: Norqain Gets Wild, & Two Takes On The GMT appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
Hermès Debuts a Luxe Take on the H08 Sports Watch
Having just introduced the cushion-shaped H08 sports watch last year, Hermès is now giving it a new look with a case in rose gold, ceramic, and DLC-treated titanium. While the design is identical to the earlier versions, the new H08 gains a bold and luxurious look – along with a steeper price tag – with the new mix of case materials. Initial thoughts The mix of materials on the new H08 are a perfect complement to the clean design and simple lines of the watch. Though certainly a bit more flashy than the muted originals, the new H08 is still an understated watch. I appreciate the use of ceramic and DLC-coated titanium as it creates contrast while dialling down the bling factor. The result is a watch that manages to look different from other sports watches, even though the black-and-rose-gold formula is a familiar one. But as with the original, I wish Hermes would remove the date between four and five o’clock. Given its functional design and focus on geometric shapes, I feel the H08 should be about an unconditional focus on the time. Priced at US$17,000, the new H08 costs almost double the model in titanium. That’s about the going rate for upgrading from titanium to a precious metal case, but it is still a chunk of change. While the original was fair value given its cost-to-performance ratio, this one is a little tougher to justify, though it is arguably far more attractive. Two-tone cushion The new H08 is actually comprised of three different materials: the bezel a...
Revolution
Touching the Past at WatchBox
Wei and Jeremiah pay a visit to WatchBox Singapore’s offices at Liat Towers and discover an unbelievable piece of horological history – one of the 20 “Souscription” Tourbillons that François-Paul Journe created to fund the start of his brand in 1999. François-Paul Journe is probably the greatest watchmaker of this generation. He can be considered […]
Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduces Astrolabe Inspired Prospex Save the Ocean Limited Edition 1965 Modern Re-interpretation SLA065
The new Seiko Prospex Save the Ocean Limited Edition 1965 Modern Reinterpretation, or better known as the SLA065, is an addition to a long line of limited edition Prospex watches that have served as a platform for the brand to support various marine conservation programs. It’s a watch that houses multiple intersections of Seiko design and various historical instruments embodying the spirit of exploration during a point in time when what was beyond the horizon, and below the ocean’s surface, was virtually unknown. While resting on the shoulders of the 62MAS, Seiko continues the lineage of the archetypal diver through the SLA065, while simultaneously paying tribute to a time keeping device that predates the wrist watch. The overlapping circle design on the dial is inspired by a 6th century scientific instrument known as an astrolabe. Used for tracking time and astronomical observation, the astrolabe in its infancy was used to track the sun and other prominent stars in relation to the horizon (latitude) and the meridian (longitude). Naturally this information would prove useful for those navigating the seas, and so the astrolabe was modified to be sturdier and more aerodynamic by cutting some of the disc components away. Using a set of pin holes, a pivoting ruler, and a scale on the outer portion of the instrument, a seafarer would be able to determine their latitude, the height of the sun, as well as the time. As one prominent adventurer once put it, the distance you’v...
Deployant
Review: The new Jacob & Co. Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon White Gold
The Jacob & Co. Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon draws inspiration from the eponymous supercar and the sixteen-cylinder piston engine that powers it.
SJX Watches
Molnar Fabry Introduces the Royal Symphony Minute Repeater
Founded by a duo who trained as jewellers, Molnar Fabry specialises in transforming old pocket watch movements and installing them in custom-made wristwatches. Based in Slovakia, Molnar Fabry recently completed its third minute-repeating wristwatch, the Royal Symphony Minute Repeater. The Royal Symphony is powered by a movement from a 1910 pocket watch made by Haas Neveux & Cie., a Geneva-based watch brand known for its high-quality movements that active from the mid-19th century to the 1920s. In typical Molnar Fabry style, the movement was entirely reworked, not only to restore its mechanical function, but also entirely decorated to a high level that includes engraving on the bridges. Initial thoughts Each watch made by Molnar Fabry is unique and mostly made according to the client’s specifications since most are made to order. As a result, the brand’s house style covers a diverse aesthetic – it is certainly not for everyone – but the quality of work is always impressive. Being jewellers, the brand’s founders apply the same artisanal, manual techniques used in producing jewellery to their watches. Even in photos the artisanal nature of the work is apparent, ranging from the movement decoration to the hand engraving on the case back. However, Molnar Fabry’s work on the movement is primarily decorative rather than mechanical. As a result, the Haas Neveux calibre still has a balance staff without shock protection. That’s like a non-issue in a watch like the Roy...
Deployant
Red Alert: Six Red Watches for the Lunar New Year
As the Lunar New Year is around the corner, we are recommending six red watches that we reckon are great for the festivities.
Hodinkee
In-Depth: How One Chiming Watch From Christopher Ward Turned The Watch World On Its Head
The shockingly affordable C1 Bel Canto has captured collectors’ attention and plotted a new course for the brand. And if you missed it the first time, or the second time, you're about to get a third chance.
Quill & Pad
Diving With The Ball Watch Engineer Master II Diver Chronometer – Repise
When Ball Watch asked Dietmar Fuchs to test dive one of the company’s newest watches, the Engineer Master II Diver Chronometer, he hesitated at first. Ball didn’t jingle a diving bell for him, but something else from its history jangled: a brand’s “history” section is always the first thing he checks before testing a watch and he discovered Ball Watch has the credentials. So he dove in and now shares his experience and thoughts on the watch here.
Quill & Pad
Is The Watch Bubble About To Burst? Yes, But Not For All. And With Luck, You Might Be Able To Buy A Rolex Again
The mechanical watch industry has a long history of being cyclical. And with war, COVID-19, and inflation, is the bubble about to burst yet again? Ian Skellern shares his thoughts on what 2023 may bring.
Worn & Wound
The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Vincent Deschamps
Editor’s note: In our first Three Watch Collection for $5,000 of 2023, reader and fellow watch writer, Vincent Deschamps of Mainspring.Watch brings us a trio of classics from some of our favorite small independent brands. There’s a lovely and unique balance to these three watches and it’s one of the most creative we’ve come across yet. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. It wasn’t until I thought of submitting my ideas for a three-watch collection for $5,000 that I imagined myself as someone who could have a three-watch collection. While I tend to only wear the same watch everyday (the Lorier Falcon III,) I do see the massive benefit of having other watches for different purposes. As an enthusiastic support of independent watchmaking, below you will find my selection for a three-watch collection below. Each watch fulfills a particular need and use case and I believe each one does it quite well. Lorier Falcon Mark III – $499 At the top of my list is the Lorier Falcon Mark III released in late 2022, the archetype everyday sports watch. I’m a sucker for watches that can do 100% of what I need 95% of the time, and that’s what the Falcon is to me. It comes with a solid build, good specs, and an elegant figure that makes it work in most situations I find myself in. And it’s quite affordable coming in at $499. There are two things about this watch that make it work so well for me: it...
SJX Watches
The F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition is Now Open
An annual award that seeks to recognise and support promising watchmakers, the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition (YTC) is open for submissions until February 1, 2023. The entry criteria is straightforward: watchmakers aged between 18 and 30 from any country who have “independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction”, but professional qualifications or training are not necessary. The prize is a CHF20,000 grant meant to finance tools or a watchmaking project. The contest will be judged by a panel including Francois-Paul Journe himself and Giulio Papi, who will select the winner based on originality, technical complexity, aesthetics and finishing, as well as quality of make. Candidates can submit their entries on Fpjourne.com from now until February 1, 2023.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Grand Seiko Is At It Again With A Pair Of Limited Releases To Celebrate The 25th Anniversary Of The Caliber 9S
Dial in the clouds and not a care in the world.
Hodinkee
Pre-Owned Picks: Collectible Watches For Those In The Know
Recent arrivals to the shop that deserve a moment of your attention.
Worn & Wound
Hublot Asks: Why Settle for Steel When You Could Have SAXEM? Also, a Ceramic Big Bang with a Rhino on the Dial
Yesterday, Blake took you through all the details of Hublot’s latest reinterpretation of their Classic Fusion with the updated Classic Fusion Original. For the Hublot historians out there (are you out there?), this was surely a welcome sight, as it calls back to the earliest days of the brand when a luxury watch on a rubber strap was a truly transgressive idea. We’ve come a long way since then, and so has Hublot. The brand has had ups and downs with the watch community (to the say the least), but in recent years they’ve leaned into experimentation with materials (especially colored ceramics and sapphire) that have gotten the attention of open minded and adventurous collectors and enthusiasts, while making watches like the Classic Fusion Original feel almost sleepy by comparison (sorry, Classic Fusion Original). Hublot’s latest envelope pushing novelties are insane in the way only modern Hublot can pull off, and while they likely won’t find a home in the watch box of any Worn & Wound staffers anytime soon, they’re too crazy not to share. First up, a watch in the same vein as my beloved Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Purple Sapphire, the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon SAXEM. This tennis ball colored, translucent tourbillon uses the same HUB6035 automatic tourbillon movement as the purple version released last year, and fills out the same enormous 44mm Big Bang form factor, but uses a slightly different synthetic sapphire material in the case construct...
Worn & Wound
5 Times a Watch Surprised Me After the Fact
Watches can be tricky things to judge without getting some real world wrist time. Details like their scale or finishing details can be lost in even the best of images, and that’s to say nothing of more intangible things, like their heft or the way the bracelet wraps around your wrist. Try as we might, we still sometimes end up writing a watch off, or worse still, prematurely lauding it, before allowing enough hands-on time to appropriately confront our biases. These watches have a way of coming back to us, and like many things in life, a way of surprising us after the fact. With each example, we hope to learn a bit more about our blind spots, and take a bit more pause when scouting the landscape ahead. These are some examples of watches that surprised me after their initial launch, and what I learned from the experience. Jump into the comments below to share your thoughts and experiences. The IWC Tribute to 3705: Learning to Ignore the Numbers IWC has ridden their Pilot and Big Pilot ranges heavily in recent years, and while I enjoy the aesthetic of these watches, I’ve never been fond of the on-wrist experience with any of them. When I first saw the Tribute to 3705, I was quick to dismiss it based on some of the numbers, predominantly the thickness measurement north of 15mm. But then I got my hands on one, and it was the watch that triggered a reassessment of how I think about the numbers around watches. I even wrote an article implying you to do the same. The Tribut...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Zenith Debuts The New Defy Skyline Skeleton
The new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton announced at LVMH Watch Week 2023. Read for specs, photos, and an analysis from Two Broke Watch Snobs.
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1970 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date, A 1952 Omega Constellation, And A 1990s Omega Speedmaster Reduced
Get all of the latest H Shop vintage watches right here.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Oris Announces the Big Crown Calibre 473
To kick off 2023, Oris officially revealed the Oris Big Crown Calibre 473-a watch showcasing the latest evolution of their in-house Caliber 400.
Hodinkee
The Spec Sheet: An IWC Ingenieur Chronograph That's Ready For The Formula One Track
The Ingenieur's answer to the Big Pilot still has Genta's DNA.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces the Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary SBGH311 and SBGR325
When Grand Seiko (GS) made its return in 1998, the inaugural SBGR001 model was powered by the 9S55, the first modern-day GS calibre. Now the brand is marking the 25th anniversary of the 9S movement family with a pair of limited editions. The Heritage Collection Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary Hi-Beat 36000 SBGH311 and the Heritage Collection Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary SBGR325. The Hi-Beat SBGH311 has a patterned dial, while the more affordable SBGR325 has a dial with a brushed finish. Both are modelled on the original model of 1998 and sport the same 37 mm case. SBGH311 (left) and SBGR325 Initial thoughts With their 37 mm cases and clean styling, the new 9S pair hark back to the GS watches made from the late 1990s to mid 2000s. That is unsurprising since they are meant to commemorate the first model with the 9S movement, which made its debut in 1998. The Hi-Beat SBGH311 does have a fancier pattern dial, but one that is relatively subtle in its shades-of-grey texture. As a result, they will appeal to anyone who wants a smaller, simpler GS watch. Another upside of the relatively simpler execution are the prices, which place the pair amongst the most affordable self-winding GS watches. The SBGH311 is US$6,600 and the SBGR325 about 20% less. SBGR325 Old-school size The SBGH311 has a textured dial in silvery grey inspired by clouds that’s matched with a blued-steel seconds hand. And the “GS” emblem is gilded in a nod to the fact that this is an anniversary edition. Not...
WatchAdvice
The Owner’s Perspective: Reviewing The Zenith Defy Skyline
What we like: Comfort factor on either steel or rubberUnique 1/10th Second sub-dialbeautiful blue dial What we don’t like: No micro-adjust system on the braceletThe bracelet can catch arm hairs occasionallyInability to accurately set the time with the 1/10th second sub-dial Overall rating: 8.25/10 Value for money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/ 10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 8/10 When Zenith released the Defy Skyline towards the start of 2022 at LVMH Watch Week, I was immediately drawn to it. Not only had Zenith completely re-imagined the original Defy from the late 60s, but had designed a modern steel sports watch with today’s watch consumer in mind. A great blend of modern lines, a bold design and styling harking back to the original Defy that was released in 1969. With many integrated sports watches on the market these days, it is good to see that a brand like Zenith is taking inspiration from some of its earlier model lines and bringing this to today’s consumer. Now, full disclosure, this isn’t a loan watch for this review; I did order it back in April 2022 and, after a 6-month wait, finally had it on my wrist in October. So this is my hands-on review of the Zenith Defy Skyline now I’ve owned and worn for the past couple of months. And in that time, I’ve really put it through its paces – office work, beach, snorkelling, surfing, trap shooting, and overseas trips, to name a few! How it wears: The Defy Skyline has been designed for wearability. With a diameter of 4...
Hodinkee
Happenings: Joshua Shapiro Returns To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
The famous engine turner will discuss the history of American watchmaking.
Hodinkee
The Spec Sheet: The Breitling Aviator 8: Inspired By Vintage Pilot's Watches
Take to the friendly skies without leaving your couch.
Hodinkee
A Week On The Wrist: Giving Some Long-Overdue Love To The Cartier Ballon Bleu
Sure, Cartier designers are known for more angular watches like the Tank and Santos, but could their more daring option be a traditional round watch?
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Best Pilot Watches For The Price
Explore the best pilot watches for the money with each pick tested, worn, and reviewed over years of hands-on experience.
Hodinkee
In-Depth: MB&F; Just Made The World’s Most Ambitious Watches For Women
The latest Legacy Machine Flying T is a partnership with hotshot jewelry designer Emmanuel Tarpin (the man behind Rihanna's earrings). And it provides an important lesson in how to make gem-set watches with rigor and imagination.
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1979 Rolex Day-Date, A 1990s Blancpain Villeret Chronograph, And A 1969 Omega Speedmaster Mark II with 'Racing' Dial
Kick off your 2023 in style with a selection of curated vintage watches from the likes of Rolex, Blancpain, Lange, and more.
Deployant
Review: the new Dievas Maya MK III
We take a look at a solid diver's watch, albeit from a less-known watch brand. Cue the robust and reliable German-made Dievas Maya MK III.