Hodinkee
Introducing: Marathon Announces Arctic Red Maple GSAR (And A Special LE) For Canada Day
Commemorating Canada's 157th birthday in the style of the Great White North.
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Hodinkee
Fratello
Hands-On With The Certina DS Super PH1000M STC - A Dive Tool Done Right
While my love of vintage-infused watches is cyclical, my love of dive watches is constant. There is just something about the purity and a sense of purpose that will always keep the genre on my favorite list. When done right, as with the shape and size of Certina’s DS Super PH1000M STC, a touch of […] Visit Hands-On With The Certina DS Super PH1000M STC - A Dive Tool Done Right to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look – The Accessible Yet Powerful Certina DS Super PH1000M STC Edition
In recent years, Swatch Group-owned brand Certina has demonstrated its capability of creating powerful, capable and nicely designed dive watches at fair prices. Take the example of the DS Super PH500M, the DS PH200M, or the DS Action Diver to understand my point. Last year, the brand pushed things even further with a watch drawing inspiration from […]
SJX Watches
Longines Unveils the Pilot Majetek Pioneer Edition in Titanium
Following the original Pilot Majetek in stainless steel, Longines has unveiled the Pilot Majetek Pioneer Edition with a titanium case and a grey-tone livery. Modelled on the original majetek aviator’s watch supplied to the Czechoslovakian air force in the 1930s, the limited edition is identical to the stainless steel variation in terms of design, dimensions, and movement, but is lightweight thanks to the case metal but also unexpectedly pricey. The Pilot Majetek Pioneer Edition in grade 5 titanium Initial thoughts The Pioneer Edition is Longines’ third re-issue of the original. Longines didn’t quite get it right with the first remake, the Heritage 1935. It lacked the rotating bezel with a triangular marker that was one of the defining features of the original, and also had an awkwardly positioned date window at six and “automatic” on the dial. Last year’s Pilot Majetek in steel was not really a remake since it has a distinctly different case design, but still gained several refinements over the Heritage 1935. However, the Pioneer Edition is not really a tangible improvement over the steel model. Thought the titanium case does bring with it lightness as well as a muted grey finish that goes well with the design, it comes at a big price increase of almost 40% over the steel version. Such a large premium for a titanium case doesn’t make much sense today given the difference in cost of a case in either material is negligible for a big brand. The Arabic indices, a...
Time+Tide
Certina doubles down on its love for turtles with the special edition DS Super PH1000M STC
The dive watch-focused brand has released a very vintage-looking special edition 'superdiver' in support of the Sea Turtle Conservancy (STC).The post Certina doubles down on its love for turtles with the special edition DS Super PH1000M STC appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Robot Aerodynamic: A Sophisticated Horological Surprise from the Czech Republic
With the Aerodynamic, they Robot cleverly takes some of the design cues of the streamlined, air-cooled Tatra cars and incorporate them into the timepiece. The air vents are prominently displayed on the dial, and colored on this version in a beautiful hue of blue.
Monochrome
First Look – Three New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked 41mm
Audemars Piguet powerfully demonstrates the theory that “two is better than one” in the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked, a coveted collector’s model with two balance wheels for increased chronometric precision and viewing pleasure. Following the recently released 37mm tone-on-tone gold version, AP proposes a trilogy of 41mm models in steel, black ceramic and […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Hands-On Video Review: The Archimede Pilot 39
The Type A dial, Flieger-style pilot's watch has been something I've coveted since diving deep into the watch collecting hobby. If I'm not dreaming about some of the prohibitively priced stuff out there, I often think of some of the best affordable options if I were to make this kind of addition to the collection. A few names come to mind, but I've had a soft spot for Archimede since meeting them in San Francisco one year and photographing one of the coolest Archimede watches ever. As the in-house watch brand of the Ickler case company in Germany, Archimede produces some of the most well-crafted and affordable timepieces in this space while remaining family-owned. Today, we're looking at the Archimede Pilot 39, one of their most popular models, and a watch that I'm sad to say goodbye to after experiencing it on loan from Archimede.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad
For Ulysse Nardin, Watches & Wonders 2024 was all about the Freak S Nomad, which made its debut in a booth that featured a massive replica of the watch’s movement. While the Nomad is essentially just a new livery for an existing model, the aesthetic changes, which include a rotating guilloche dial, give the watch a sportier feel that suits the design. The Nomad is the second model in the Freak S collection after the original of 2022, and the latest in a long line of innovative watches that dates back to 2001. Interestingly, the Nomad is the first Freak to feature artisanal decoration, in the form of the guilloche dial, as compared to past models that have been more about technology than technique. Initial thoughts Mechanical watchmaking technology is fundamentally archaic, largely unchanged for more than a century. As a result, futuristically styled watches can easily come across as superficial. So it’s refreshing to consider the Nomad, which backs up its sci-fi styling with 21st-century materials and truly unique movement architecture that manages to be highly differentiated even a quarter-century after its launch. On paper, the Nomad is a large watch at 45 mm in diameter and 17 mm thick. Both of these numbers surprised me because after putting it on my wrist, it looks and feels smaller than it is. This is due, in part, to the lightweight titanium case, the muted colour palette, and the visual depth of the dial. Furthermore, the eye is naturally drawn to the central ...
Worn & Wound
Photo Report: Assembling Caliber 9SA4 at the Grand Seiko Boutique
I’ve always had a fascination for peeking behind the curtain. Whether it was tearing apart broken electronics, rebuilding car engines, or opening the caseback of my first Seiko, I’ve always wanted to see and know how things work. As I’ve gone deeper into the horology rabbit hole, I’ve become more interested in the physical process of assembling a movement. While I can watch any number of YouTube videos, there’s something special about seeing it done in person, especially when you get to watch a Grand Seiko Watchmaker at work. Last week, I was invited to Grand Seiko’s boutique for a live assembly of their new 9SA4 movement, a high-beat, manually wound high frequency movement featuring Grand Seiko’s proprietary dual impulse escapement and 80 hours of power reserve. If you’d like to learn more about the 9SA4 and how it was created from the 9SA5, Zach Kazan covers that in detail here. This event was hosted at Grand Seiko’s Madison Avenue boutique (we celebrated the grand opening of this boutique in March, click here for the recap article) which features a gorgeous open concept main level, and an intimate lower level they’ve dubbed “The Cellar”. Unlike any cellar I’ve ever been in, this lower level features multiple lounge spaces, a full bar, a dedicated presentation space and, of course, plenty of watches. You’ll also find various items of cultural significance from the towns surrounding the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, which inspire the design o...
Quill & Pad
Grand Seiko 1960 Re-Creations: Celebrating a Turning Point
To celebrate its enduring legacy, Grand Seiko has re-created the original Grand Seiko model from December of 1960, and it is all the right kinds of vintage Japanese minimalist design that any self-respecting WIS would appreciate. The Grand Seiko 1960 Re-Creations are the essence of Grand Seiko.
Time+Tide
Hotter take: vintage sports watches are tougher than you (and Zach) think
A hopeless vintage romantic argues for in the case of vintage sports watches. As usual though, there are asterisks.The post Hotter take: vintage sports watches are tougher than you (and Zach) think appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra in 3 sizes
The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra collection has recently expanded with the introduction of three new models, each featuring a striking black dial. These timepieces, available in 41mm, 38mm, and 34mm sizes, cater to a variety of wrist sizes and preferences.
Fratello
Introducing: The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon
The H. Moser Streamliner just had its Haute Horlogerie chops dialed up to eleven. The result is a thoroughly modern and characterful watch that cannot be confused with anything other than a Moser. What we get is the familiar Streamliner case with its organically integrated bracelet and sterile dial. Don’t fret, though, because “sterile” does […] Visit Introducing: The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon to read the full article.
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner – Bugatti Comes Full Circle with the Tourbillon Hypercar with Genuine Watchmaking Inside!
It’s hard to imagine that the record-setting and boundaries-pushing Bugatti Veyron has already been with us for close to two decades. After years of testing, teasing and fine-tuning this mindblowing hypercar, the EB 16.4 Veyron was officially unveiled in 2005, carrying a bonkers 8.0 litre quad-turbocharged W16 powerhouse of an engine in the back, producing […]
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: Jaeger-LeCoultre Tribute To Reverso 1931
Over the 20-odd years that GaryG has been buying “serious” watches, he has purchased more pieces bearing the Jaeger-LeCoultre brand name than any other, by far. Within the Jaeger-LeCoultre pantheon, one watch sub-group stands out for him: the Reverso. Between his wife and he, they've bought a total of seven Reverso models. Given that, why add another? In this instance, the Reverso Tribute to 1931?
Fratello
Introducing: The Chronoswiss Delphis Dracula, Horizon, And Dune
Chronoswiss is on a mission to revamp its lineup. Today’s Delphis watch trio marks the third new release in nearly four months. These three watches offer enameled and guilloché dials in cases made from gold or titanium. The brand also makes good use of its third in-house-designed movement, the C.6004. Today’s Chronoswiss Delphis models are […] Visit Introducing: The Chronoswiss Delphis Dracula, Horizon, And Dune to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Micro-Brand Digest: Exciting New Sports Watches, a Canadian Brand Inspired by Architecture, and a Former Modder Hits Kickstarter
Welcome to the Worn & Wound Micro-Brand Digest, a semi-monthly roundup of all the new micro-brand news we’re following, from concepts that show promise, to Kickstarter launches to restocks, and everything in between. Small independents, and affordable micro-brands spurred the creation of Worn & Wound over 10 years ago, and they still drive our enthusiasm in a big way. Here’s what’s caught our eye this month. If you’ve come across a project you think qualifies, hit us up at info@wornandwound.com for inclusion. Monarte Watches Monarte Watches founder Domen faced a dilemma. He wanted a durable dive watch that also had a dressy look so he could wear it to work or for a night out, not just for sports and weekends. After conducting his research, he discovered that the only “hybrid” watches that truly met the requirements were extremely expensive. As a result, he reached out to the online watch community to gather their input and preferences. From this collective effort, he believes he has devised a solution, the Monarte Squid, a highly versatile and capable dive watch adorned with numerous little details that enthusiasts adore. Let us get the elephant in the room out of the way, shall we? Only the original guilloché dial was crafted by hand-operated lathe, and all subsequent dials were CNC machined to replicate it as closely as possible. This cost-saving manufacturing process in no way diminishes their ornateness or splendor. You would be hard-pressed to find more i...
Worn & Wound
Into the Elements: Hamilton and the Khaki Field Expedition
The Hamilton Watch Company stands as a venerable name in horology, renowned not only for its timepieces, but also for its deep-rooted connection to military history. Established in 1892 in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, Hamilton quickly made its mark by producing pocket watches that were instrumental in both civilian and military spaces. During World War I, Hamilton became a primary supplier of timepieces to the U.S. Armed Forces, earning accolades for their reliability and design. This role continued into World War II, when Hamilton halted their production for civilian use in order to focus on supplying Allied forces with standard issue wrist watches – watches that became indispensable to soldiers and aviators alike. The company’s commitment to military excellence culminated in the creation of the iconic Hamilton Khaki Field line, a collection that pays homage to its heritage while meeting the demands of modern adventurers in its specifications. Inspired by the rugged timepieces worn by military personnel, the Khaki Field collection blends classic military aesthetics with contemporary functionality. The Khaki Field Expedition launched last year, and their 41mm and 37mm options highlight the brand’s move into inclusive sizing options. These watches are characterized by their durable stainless steel cases, legible dials, and the notable bidirectional compass bezel which allows its users to find their bearings using the sun. Their accessible price point also lends them to be...
Monochrome
First Look – The Longines Pilot Majetek Pioneer Edition, now in Titanium
Known for its countless (and often appealing) vintage re-editions, inspired by some glorious watches of the past, Longines last year relaunched an important historic pilot watch, the Czech Pilot watch known as “Majetek Vojenske Spravy” or more simply, the Pilot Majetek. A follow-up to a model of 2014, this re-introduction was done with style and […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The New and Superb Voutilainen KV20i Reversed
Five years ago, Kari Vouitilainen‘s atelier unveiled an exciting evolution of the brand’s signature time-only Vingt-8 series, the Voutilainen 28TI model with an inverted calibre. The 28TI (Titanium Inverse) watch, with its sumptuous detailing and delicate decoration, brought to the fore movement components that were previously visible through the sapphire caseback, allowing an impressive display […]
Deployant
New: Jacob & Co. Bugatti Tourbillon
Jacob & Co. and Bugatti have done it again! Bugatti have just released a brand new Hyper Sports Car which is christened Tourbillon on the 20th of June 2024. 25th of June 2024, Bugatti's long time partner of watches Jacob & Co released their latest collaboration timepiece. Read on more for our thoughts on the watch.
Quill & Pad
New release: Ressence Type 5 L – A Great Dive Watch gets Even Better with More Lume
Few watches released in the last three decades have been as revolutionary as the Ressence Type 5. And now with the Type 5 L, Ressence increases legibility even more by the abundant application of Super-LumiNova.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Hublot Classic Fusion Essential Grey (Volume III)
One of Hublot’s more recent specialities has been the Essential Grey treatment of popular models, which essentially turns them into monochromatic variants for collectors. This started with the Big Bang Unico Essential Grey and continued with the Spirit of Big Bang Essential Grey, and now we have a third instalment, the Classic Fusion Essential Grey. […]
SJX Watches
Hublot Unveils the Clean, Monochromatic Classic Fusion Essential Grey
Hublot just unveiled the third instalment of Essential Grey, a series of watches dressed in a cool monochrome. The latest addition is the Classic Fusion Essential Grey that’s available in two sizes of 42 mm and 45 mm. It’s a low-key look that sports a sun ray-brushed grey dial and titanium case. As is convention for Essential Grey, the pair are available only online. The case sports the iconic porthole-shaped bezel Initial thoughts While earlier Essential Grey models were chronographs, the new pair are simply, time-and-date watches. Despite being monochromatic, the Essential Grey chronographs looked busy. The Classic Fusion, on the other hand, is a perfect match for the monochromatic palette. The design is as clean as a Hublot can be, which complements the colour scheme well. Already a wearable watch in itself, the Classic Fusion in this restrained styling is made even more wearable. The only weakness of the watch is the price. At US$8,500, the Classic Fusion Essential Grey is amongst the most affordable Hublot models, but it costs that much despite the basic Sellita SW300 movement inside. The SW300 is a strong performer but inexpensive and usually found in correspondingly inexpensive watches. I know that Hublot is working on a workhorse in-house calibre to take the place of the SW300, but until then the price is stiff. Porthole The Classic Fusion Essential Grey is available in 42 mm and 45 mm variants, with both identical save for the case dimensions. The 42 mm versio...
Monochrome
First Look – New Colours for Hamilton’s Accessible Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm
Released in 2018, the Khaki Field Mechanical quickly became a hit for Hamilton. And when you wear this watch, you quickly understand why. The essence of a military/field watch with a vintage-inspired design, it is rugged, simple, legible, well proportioned and comes with a genuinely accessible price tag. And it sure looks good! Following the […]
Fratello
Watch Spotting Is Topsport During This Intense Sports Summer - Watching Athletes, Coaches, And The Crowd To Spot Their Watches
What if you like watches, don’t like sports, but also don’t want to disappoint your partner who likes watching every sporting event on television? Well, you play nice, sit on the same couch, and watch the same screen, but instead of following the game, you create your very own called Spot the Watch. You can […] Visit Watch Spotting Is Topsport During This Intense Sports Summer - Watching Athletes, Coaches, And The Crowd To Spot Their Watches to read the full article.
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. Unveils Its Most Complicated Streamliner to Date
The most complicated H. Moser & Cie. sports watch to date, the Streamliner Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon Blue Enamel is derived from the unique Streamliner Pandamonium created in collaboration with MB&F;. The new Streamliner retains both the minute repeater and tourbillon, but without the panda figure and the oversized balance wheel. In typical Moser “concept” style, the blue grand feu enamel dial is free of any markings and finished with a fumè gradient effect that darkens towards the periphery. Also found in the Endeavour, the movement was developed in collaboration with specialist Manufacture Hautes Complications (MHC). Initial thoughts Since Moser released the Streamliner four years ago, the sports watch has become the brand’s bestseller – unsurprisingly given the popularity of the integrated-bracelet-sports-watch category in general. The new repeater-tourbillon fills in a gap in the Streamliner range, which is to say a top-of-the-line, flagship complication. Both minute repeater and flying tourbillon are visible on the dial If you like the Streamliner design, as I do, the new repeater-tourbillon is a handsome watch. The addition of the visible mechanisms on the dial add greater detail and depth to the visuals, while the fired enamel dial is a nice tough, though a fragile enamel dial is somewhat paradoxical in a sports watch. The repeater-tourbillon is similar in dimensions to the Streamliner chronograph, a good size for a sports watch of this design. The ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Worldtimer Limited Edition For Hodinkee
We have collaborated with the historic Swiss brand Carl F. Bucherer to bring the best of the jet-setting age into the modern era.
Monochrome
First Look – The New Grey Dial Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Smile Day
Alain Silberstein and Louis Erard are at it again! One of the brand’s most veteran collaborators, Alain Silberstein has collaborated with Louis Erard since 2019, dialling up the colour of watches with his original design language. Following the Tourbillon Regulator, Silberstein’s latest Smile Day collaboration continues in the wake of earlier three-hand with day and […]