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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Portnoy trolls Crash, Omega teases tiny yet massive update Time+Tide
Omega teases tiny yet massive Jan 6, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Portnoy trolls Crash, Omega teases tiny yet massive update

Davey boy, oh Davey boy. Barstool Sports founder Dave Portnoy has already found himself in hot water with, what he refers to, as “watch geeks”. The launch of his watch brand Brick Watch Company was absolutely ridiculed by watch enthusiasts online, the recurring theme being that his designs were unimaginative, generic, ugly and overpriced. In … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Portnoy trolls Crash, Omega teases tiny yet massive update appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Franck Muller Crazy Hours is a horological exercise in pure, unbridled fun Time+Tide
Franck Muller Jan 6, 2023

The Franck Muller Crazy Hours is a horological exercise in pure, unbridled fun

It goes likes this: 8, 1, 6, 11, 4, 9, 2, 7, 12, 5, 10, 3. No, this isn’t some Fibonacci-like mathematical sequence, the combination to a very complicated electronic safe, or even a code for sending secret military messages via a cipher machine. It’s the order of numerals on the Art Deco dial of … ContinuedThe post The Franck Muller Crazy Hours is a horological exercise in pure, unbridled fun appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The top three Frederique Constant releases of 2022 Time+Tide
Frederique Constant releases Jan 5, 2023

The top three Frederique Constant releases of 2022

Last year saw many brands reinvent themselves, create completely new collections, or try to grab hold of the latest hype train for dear life. Yet some brands doubled down on their sensibilities and reminded us what it is they stand for. One of those being Frederique Constant, who continue to grow as a company on … ContinuedThe post The top three Frederique Constant releases of 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Which watch brand won 2022? Luke picks Omega – here are five reasons why… Time+Tide
Omega here are five reasons Jan 5, 2023

Which watch brand won 2022? Luke picks Omega – here are five reasons why…

When asked to give my thoughts on which watch brand “won” 2022, I feared for a second that it might be a trick question. That’s because, for me at least, the answer is so forehead-slappingly obvious that you’d need to perform all sorts of mental gymnastics to conceive of any vaguely credible challengers.  Last year, … ContinuedThe post Which watch brand won 2022? Luke picks Omega – here are five reasons why… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Hublot Big Bang Sapphire sits at the bleeding edge of technology and opulence Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Sapphire sits Jan 4, 2023

The Hublot Big Bang Sapphire sits at the bleeding edge of technology and opulence

Swiss luxury powerhouse Hublot has long been known for their outsize watches for outsize personalities. The man responsible for the brand’s rise to fame, Jean-Claude Biver, always had a knack for making a big splash, none bigger than Hublot’s Big Bang line. Since its introduction in 2005, the Big Bang has been produced in a … ContinuedThe post The Hublot Big Bang Sapphire sits at the bleeding edge of technology and opulence appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Louis Vuitton Announces Prize for Independent Watchmakers SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Announces Prize Jan 3, 2023

Louis Vuitton Announces Prize for Independent Watchmakers

Independent watchmaking has been gaining rapid momentum in the last three years. Young and talented watchmakers have emerged to seek recognition (and sometimes riches) in the mould of Philippe Dufour, Kari Voutilainen, and François-Paul Journe. Now the field is about to get the nod of approval from the luxury-goods establishment, with Louis Vuitton having announced the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. Conceived to promote “horological creativity”, the award begins in 2023 with a broad remit. It is open to anyone in watchmaking and watch design, and even from fields related to horology. Initial thoughts As the world’s largest luxury brand, Louis Vuitton has unsurprisingly been making high-end watches for some time – last year was the 20th anniversary of its first mechanical wristwatch. Following its acquisition of Geneva movement maker La Fabrique du Temps in 2012, the brand’s ambitions have grown, resulting in impressively complicated watches like the Tambour Carpe Diem, a minute repeater with automaton. From that perspective, the Louis Vuitton prize is a natural extension of the brand’s progress as a watchmaker, a way for Louis Vuitton to make known its commitment to high-end watchmaking.  The fact that Louis Vuitton is using its considerable resources – the brand’s 2021 revenue was in the region of €15 billion – to support independent watchmakers is a welcome development. The prize money is substantial, reputedly in the low six ...

What will be the watch colour of the year in 2023? Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18k. Green Jan 3, 2023

What will be the watch colour of the year in 2023?

A couple of years ago, the watch world became flooded with a sea of green. Dials were awash with the colour in multiple shades – from the Patek Phillippe Nautilus in a metallic shade of olive to the mossy hue of the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18k. Green was the undisputed colour of the year. The … ContinuedThe post What will be the watch colour of the year in 2023? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The 15 Best Watches Under $200 for New Collectors Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 3, 2023

The 15 Best Watches Under $200 for New Collectors

Seeking out the best watches under $200 is not, it’s fair to say, a pastime for many serious, seasoned watch collectors, most of whom have access to a fairly large checkbook and are armed with a wealth of knowledge about all the most coveted brands and models out there. But every watch collection starts somewhere and every watch collector starts out as someone who’s new to the timepiece game, often also young and yet to embark on the accumulation of resources that would enable them to play at the higher echelons of timepiece collecting. With that in mind, we gave ourselves a challenging price limit of $200 and sought out 15 watches worth a look - whether you’re a newbie or one of those deep-pocketed watch veterans who can’t resist a bargain. Orient Bambino V4 Blue Dial Price: $200, Reference: FAC08004D0, Case Size: 42 mm, Case Height: 11.8 mm, Lug To Lug: 48.2 mm, Lug Width: 22 mm, Crystal: Domed Mineral, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: Automatic Often under the radar of American watch consumers and overshadowed by its much larger Japanese brethren, Citizen and Seiko (which with it shares a corporate connection through Epson), Orient has been making value-oriented watches in Japan since 1950. The Bambino is Orient’s dressy gents’ model, fairly large in diameter at 42 mm with a domed crystal. The dial’s gradation sweeps from a bright blue center to black at the edges. Inside is an in-house movement, the automatic Orient F6724, with a hacking seconds f...

Which watch brand won 2022? Zach picks Cartier – here’s why… Time+Tide
Cartier here’s why… Editor’s note Jan 3, 2023

Which watch brand won 2022? Zach picks Cartier – here’s why…

Editor’s note: During one of our final editorial meetings of the year, the question was posed: which watch brand won 2022? This then raises the question of what it means to win. Is it total revenue? Likes on social media? Page views on our site? The number of watch spots in the wild? There is no one … ContinuedThe post Which watch brand won 2022? Zach picks Cartier – here’s why… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel Jan 2, 2023

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel

In an unexpected, end-of-year announcement, Audemars Piguet unveiled the Code 11.59 Starwheel, reviving the wandering hours complication that had been absent from its catalogue since 2003. Inspired by a 17th century clock, the wandering hours made its way into wristwatches thanks to Audemars Piguet (AP), which debuted the first wristwatch with the display in 1991. Retaining the familiar three-disc hour display, the new Starwheel is nonetheless an entirely different watch from the compact original. Powered by an in-house movement contained in the Code 11.59 case, the Starwheel has physical presence by virtue of its size, but also a surprising degree of refinement thanks to the excellent finishing of the dial and case. Initial thoughts With a modern look defined by dark colours and instrument-like numerals, the Code 11.59 Starwheel looks pretty much the same as it does in photos – but it is far more appealing than expected. In the metal the watch has an impressive degree of visual detail, particularly the polished bevels on the dial components, and a reassuringly solid feel, all of which give it a great deal of tactile appeal. The refinement in terms of visual detail also translates into the movement, which is in-house both in terms of the base and module. Although it functions identically to the original Star Wheel, the Code 11.59 model has an improved display mechanism. Instead of the periodic rotation found in the original model, the discs rotate continually throughout ...

Our favourite Micro Mondays from 2022: Part 2 Time+Tide
Jan 2, 2023

Our favourite Micro Mondays from 2022: Part 2

We’ve already counted down our top 5  from our Micro-Mondays series in 2022, but the independent goodness just keeps on coming. Each passing year sees these nimble microbrands continuing to innovate where larger companies can’t, driving trends and keeping prices attainable. If someone is looking to get into the watch hobby without spending a heap of … ContinuedThe post Our favourite Micro Mondays from 2022: Part 2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword 2022 recap part two (#15-28) Time+Tide
Jan 1, 2023

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword 2022 recap part two (#15-28)

One Sunday morning, I was sitting on the couch having a New York Times mini-crossword race with my brother. It was a pretty close battle, luck of the prompts really, where he got caught up on one of the clues allowing me to come from behind and complete it before him. But in the silent … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword 2022 recap part two (#15-28) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono offers a sportier version on an integrated rubber strap Time+Tide
Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Dec 31, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono offers a sportier version on an integrated rubber strap

With the heat from integrated-bracelet sports watches showing no signs of cooling off, more and more brands are getting into the game. And in some cases, they’re resurrecting those bold designs from their own back catalogues, which is exactly what Chopard did in 2019, when it released the Alpine Eagle to great fanfare. The Alpine … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono offers a sportier version on an integrated rubber strap appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk is a truly high-end digital watch Time+Tide
A. Lange & Sohne Dec 31, 2022

The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk is a truly high-end digital watch

When I think of digital watches, my mind immediately goes to a display carousel stocked with black plastic quartz watches priced at $9.99 at a discount superstore. What I don’t think of is the upper echelons of high horology, where the crafting of mechanical masterpieces is akin to religion. Yet here is where the breathtaking … ContinuedThe post The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk is a truly high-end digital watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why the jump hour display of the Louis Vuitton Spin Time shook the watch world Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Spin Time shook Dec 30, 2022

Why the jump hour display of the Louis Vuitton Spin Time shook the watch world

Watches. They broadly tell the time, but the way in which they do so is where things get interesting. You have your minimalists, which strip things down to the barest of elements: an hour and minute hand. Once you begin to add complications, like a second hand, a chronograph function, day/date apertures, perpetual calendars, and … ContinuedThe post Why the jump hour display of the Louis Vuitton Spin Time shook the watch world appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Takeaways from Attending My First Live Watch Auction SJX Watches
F.P. Journe FFC Blue Dec 30, 2022

Takeaways from Attending My First Live Watch Auction

I have always been fascinated by the drama that unfolds at a live watch auction – the excitement, the applause that accompanies a record hammer price, and the occasional silence when there are no bids to be found made. As a collector, the drama that unfolds adds colour to the hobby and adds another dimension to the business.  I had long tuned in for the livestream of auctions since I purchased my first vintage timepiece almost a decade ago. I followed the blockbuster results in the salerooms of the three leading auction houses, Phillips, Sotheby’s and Christie’s, but I had yet to experience being in the room until my outing to the recent fall sales in Hong Kong.  Watching the gavel fall on screen I knew I had to attend a live auction after watching the Sotheby’s Geneva auction that took place in December 2014. On my laptop I saw the sale of the Henry Graves Supercomplication unfold, when the man with the red tie, whom I later discovered to be Aurel Bacs, won the watch for US$24 million.  A few years later, while commuting to my first job out of college, I caught the exact moment when Paul Newman’s “Paul Newman” Rolex Daytona sold for a record at Phillips’ in New York. More recently, I tuned in for the sale of the F.P. Journe FFC Blue at Only Watch last year. Even though I only watched these sales on a screen, it is clear that watch auctions at the highest level are almost a competitive sport, with bidders from across the world or the aisle locked in a ...

The three watches Ricardo wore most in 2022 – Grand Seiko, MoonSwatch and Tudor Time+Tide
Grand Seiko MoonSwatch Dec 29, 2022

The three watches Ricardo wore most in 2022 – Grand Seiko, MoonSwatch and Tudor

This will go down as the year that completely changed my life. From growing my passion for watches. To balancing life as a writer and father. All while trying to find myself as a collector. I’ll probably look back at it all in amazement. If simply for the fact that I didn’t throw my hands … ContinuedThe post The three watches Ricardo wore most in 2022 – Grand Seiko, MoonSwatch and Tudor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon DeepQuest II Ceramic is a beast of a dive watch – and that’s a good thing Time+Tide
Dec 28, 2022

VIDEO: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon DeepQuest II Ceramic is a beast of a dive watch – and that’s a good thing

Ball may not be the most recognisable name in Swiss watchmaking, but their heritage goes all the way back to 1891, and the heyday of railroad timers. In fact, due to an Ohio railroad collision (the Great Kipton Train Wreck), founder Webb C. Ball, a well-known jeweler, instituted a railroad timekeeping standard to prevent future … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon DeepQuest II Ceramic is a beast of a dive watch – and that’s a good thing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close With the Unimatic x Revolution & The Rake Modello Uno GMT “Arctic Fox” Revolution
Unimatic Dec 28, 2022

Up Close With the Unimatic x Revolution & The Rake Modello Uno GMT “Arctic Fox”

Take a closer look at the U1 GMT in an all-white Cerakote coating with stonewashed finishing. Every single watch is unique and slightly different from other pieces due to the random wear patterns created during the hand-finished process, giving it a distinctive feel. For maximum legibility, the watch features a 24-hour matte aluminum bezel, black-tipped […]

Interview: Jeremy Lim of Cortina Watch on the Family Business and Longevity SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava ref 5057 made Dec 28, 2022

Interview: Jeremy Lim of Cortina Watch on the Family Business and Longevity

With 2022 revenue of S$716.9 million (equivalent to US$532 million), Cortina Watch is one of the world’s biggest watch retailers. It was founded in 1972 as a single store but has grown into a regional giant with stores across Southeast Asia as well as outposts in Taiwan and Australia. Cortina marked its 50th anniversary this year with a slew of limited editions that reflect its importance, including the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 5057 made specifically for it. Though publicly listed, the company remains controlled by the founding Lim family, with the third generation having recently joined the business. A crucial member of management is Jeremy Lim, the younger son of Cortina founder Anthony Lim. Jeremy helms the business alongside his siblings Raymond and Sharon. I spoke with Jeremy recently to uncover the factors behind the longevity and success of Cortina. Three generations of the Lim family, with Jeremy Lim second from left. Image – Cortina Watch SJX: When Cortina was founded 50 years ago by your father, it was one of many watch stores in Singapore. But now Cortina is one of the few left, in fact it’s one of the biggest in the region. What is the secret to the longevity and success? Jeremy Lim (JL): We were lucky that we had a lot of help from the family when my dad started the business with my mom. [My brother] Raymond started early in the business, then my sister got interested in the business as well, and subsequently I was reeled in. The old school method o...