Hodinkee
Universal Genève Unveils Trio Of Polerouter Tribute Watches Ahead Of 2026 Relaunch
Using the past as a hint for what is yet to come, Universal Genève previews the brand's new direction.
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Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
Brellum Introduces a Smaller Version of their Duobox Chronograph
Sébastien Muller, a fourth-generation watchmaker, founded Brellum in 2017. Unlike many new brands, they did not pursue crowdfunding but adopted a more traditional approach. The first model released by Brellum was the Duobox, which was covered by Worn & Wound here. Since then, we have reported on several other releases by the brand. However, despite this coverage and similar attention from other outlets, Brellum does not appear to have the same visibility or market presence as many competitors. That is the impression I have, at least. Since 2017, they have quietly expanded into multiple product lines, exhibiting strong and distinctive brand coherence. They have successfully established their brand identity in such a way that their models are instantly recognizable as Brellum watches. In an industry as prolific, diverse, and prone to imitation as ours, achieving a high level of brand consistency is more challenging than one might expect, particularly if your designs are conservative. However, their watches do possess some flair, and all feature high-grade chronometer-certified movements. For 2024, Brellum is introducing a smaller version of their most popular model, the Duobox, along with a new chronograph movement in their collection. Introducing the Duobox 39 Chronometer Limited Edition. This watch is essentially a 39mm version featuring subdials at the 3, 6, and 9 positions. Many consider this arrangement more aesthetically pleasing than the standard ETA/VJ7750 dial layo...
Time+Tide
Why electric watches were doomed from the very beginning
Borna takes a closer look at the history of electric watches, and what they've become.The post Why electric watches were doomed from the very beginning appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Black Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton
Back in April 2024, I had a chance to check out the olive-green version of the Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton. While that earlier release walked a fine line between a saturated green and warm gray, today’s new watch takes a stealthier black approach. But don’t let that fool you because the rose gold […] Visit Hands-On With The New Black Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Seiko Watches Of All Time
One of the most iconic and beloved watch brands in history, Seiko is ubiquitous among newcomers, seasoned watch collectors, and everyone in between. Choosing one watch from a brand which has a catalog with such breadth and depth is not an easy task but the team here at Teddy was asked to do just that. Unsurprisingly, the answers ranged from contemporary dress watches to niche limited editions paying tribute to Sci-Fi classics. So, without further ado, here are our picks for our favorite Seiko watches. Let us know what you think and share your own in the comments. Mark Bernardo: Seiko Prospex SBDY025 "Save the Ocean" Edition How does one choose a “favorite” Seiko? As someone who writes about watches for an audience that appreciates all different kinds of watches, I’ve always found superlatives like “favorite” and “best” to be daunting. At the watch-industry trade shows I’ve attended over the years, I have often been posed with the question of what were my favorite new releases. My responses, invariably, have tracked not necessarily with my personal tastes but with the watches that made for the most interesting stories for my watch-savvy readers. And when it comes to Seiko, its history is chock full of interesting stories — the first Japanese-made chronograph watch in 1964 and first Japanese divers’ watch in 1965; the original Seiko Astron, the first quartz watch, in 1969, and its successor, the Astron GPS model, in 2012, to name just a handful. There has...
Monochrome
News – Universal Genève Teases its 2026 Return, with Three 70th Anniversary Polerouter SAS Tribute Watches
The Polerouter is, without a doubt, one of the most emblematic watches ever created by Universal Genève. Not only was it designed by young Gérald Genta, but it was powered by an important micro-rotor movement and was a purpose-built watch created by request of SAS, asking Universal Genève to create a watch that could support […]
Fratello
Introducing: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Solargraph × Time+Tide “Sundowner”
Our Aussie friends at Time+Tide collaborated with TAG Heuer, resulting in a new version of the Aquaracer Solargraph. Style-wise, this is Time+Tide through and through. The Sundowner takes inspiration from the watch that has almost become synonymous with Time+Tide founder Andrew McUtchen, the Aquaracer Solargraph, and it pours on some Australian Outback sauce. Let’s have […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Solargraph × Time+Tide “Sundowner” to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Here’s Why The Crown is the Unsung Hero of Watchmaking and Why Rolex Wears the Crown
The crown is one of the most important yet underappreciated parts of a watch. The humble crown has played an extensive role in helping Rolex – and the rest of the watch industry – get to where it is today. Here's why.
Time+Tide
Introducing the Time+Tide x TAG Heuer Aquaracer Solargraph ‘Sundowner’
The Aquaracer Solargraph 'Sundowner' is our tribute to Australian sunsets.The post Introducing the Time+Tide x TAG Heuer Aquaracer Solargraph ‘Sundowner’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Time+Tide and TAG Heuer Introduce the New Aquaracer Solargraph “Sundowner” Limited Edition
Our friends at Time+Tide have launched their latest collaborative limited edition, a new version of one of our favorite TAG Heuer references, the Aquaracer Solargraph. The Solargraph builds on decades of Aquaracer heritage by incorporating state of the art solar technology that makes it something akin to the ultimate grand and go sports watch. The new LE from Time+Tide trades on the media outlet’s Australian roots to great effect – the end result is a watch straddles the line between the high end and a pure tool, offering something just a little big extra for Time+Tide readers. The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Solargraph x Time+Tide “Sundowner,” as it’s known, features a number of design cues inspired by the Australian outback. The reputation of the outback is as a wilderness environment that’s both beautiful and treacherous, so a sandblasted titanium case makes a ton of thematic sense and offers a level of robustness that you’d want if you found yourself in one of Australia’s most remote regions. The barren, desert-like aesthetic is also evoked by the khaki strap and the rose gold dial accents, which provide the Sundowner with a sense of utility and refinement. I’ve never been to the outback, personally, but the watch has a warmth to it that is both uncommon in quartz powered sports watches and feels very much tied to the landscape it’s inspired by. The Solargraph is ostensibly a dive watch, and features a unidirectional rotating bezel in a tone matching that...
Monochrome
News – Seagull Drastically Limits Supply of the ST-19 Chronograph, but not for Studio Underd0g
While widely known as a China-made movement, the Seagull ST-19 chronograph has always been well-accepted by the watch community. It looks good, it has a tried-and-tested architecture (well, of course, being a copy of an old Venus 175), it has a classic combo of column-wheel and horizontal clutch and, mostly, it made it possible to […]
Worn & Wound
Field Notes Enters the Bag Game
As we’ve seen time and time again in the watch industry, collaborations often open the door to new opportunities, whether it’s an entirely new product, or a limited offering based on an existing product, and this mentality is just as prevalent in the EDC world. In order to bring their first pack to market, Field Notes partnered with “Got Bag” to produce the Pitch Black Rolltop backpack. Got Bag is a softgoods manufacturer whose mission is to clean plastics from the ocean, and repurpose PETG into usable fabric. They currently offer a full gamut of travel items, from backpacks, slings, and smaller travel pouches. This new pack, or rather new colorway is built upon Got Bag’s ROLLTOP EASY pack, which features water resistant fabric, a laptop sleeve capable of holding a 16” laptop, and even a hidden pocket on the back panel (the panel that rests against your back when wearing the bag). While the feature set of this version is mostly the same as the standard model, its appearance is what sets it apart. Drawing inspiration from Field Notes’ iconic “Pitch Black” notebooks, the main exterior fabric is all black, aside from a silvery Field Notes and Got Bag logo. Rather than lining the inside of the pack with a “Kraft brown” fabric, Got Back used a brown webbing for the roll top cinch strap, and the rear accessory pocket zipper pull. Designed to be lightweight, this pack comes in at 1.5 pounds when empty, and can expand from its base 20L capacity to 31L for tho...
Fratello
#TBT Racing Legends Jim Clark And Stirling Moss Wearing Enicar Watches
Having past ambassadors who became icons in their fields of activity is priceless. Some of these connections are real, and some are more of a wish. It’s important to navigate through tons of lies and fairytales made up to boost the value of vintage watches and just stick to the facts. Jim Clark or Stirling […] Visit #TBT Racing Legends Jim Clark And Stirling Moss Wearing Enicar Watches to read the full article.
Deployant
Review: the new YEMA x Alain Silberstein Limited Edition
Alain Silberstein has done it again! This time, the quirky designer teamed up with the French based YEMA to launch a 500 pieces limited edition watch.
SJX Watches
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Greater China
Audemars Piguet (AP) debuts an entirely new look for its thinnest-ever perpetual with the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Greater China. Crafted entirely in yellow gold in a first for the model, the limited edition even sports a gilded dial with matching yellow gold moon disc. Initial thoughts The Royal Oak is inarguably the face of AP. And amongst Royal Oak models, the ultra-thin perpetual calendar stands out for its technical sophistication. Derived from the Royal Oak RD#2 concept watch, the Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin has a cleverly engineered movement that spreads out the calendar mechanism to minimise its height. That results in a slim case that enhances the proportions of the Royal Oak design. The signature starry moon phase features yellow gold-toned moons The Greater China edition is a major departure from the grey and blue tones of the prior two versions. It’s loud and definitely not for everyone, but it does look good. At the same time, it also references vintage Royal Oak perpetual calendar models that featured similar all-gold livery. Though the price is only on request, the Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin mode in general is pricey, arguably more expensive than it should be in fact, but it looks and feels great on the wrist. Yellow moons Crafted from 18k yellow gold, the ultra-thin yellow gold case is 41 mm in diameter and 6.2 mm in thickness. Water resistant to only 20 m due to its thinness, the case is finished in traditional Royal Oak style, wit...
Fratello
Hands-On With The Nomos Club Sport Neomatik In Its New 34mm Size
You can almost hear the discussions at the Nomos headquarters in Glashütte. First, the 42mm Club Sport was introduced. It was the German brand’s first proper stainless steel sports watch. It was a well-received release but also a little big for some people, so the brand decided to introduce a smaller 37mm size for the […] Visit Hands-On With The Nomos Club Sport Neomatik In Its New 34mm Size to read the full article.
Fratello
Strap Review: Testing Out The New Delugs Sailcloth Straps
The new Delugs sailcloth-patterned rubber straps are a refreshing addition to the brand’s repertoire, especially for collectors looking to add a more refined version of the sailcloth strap. First things first: these are not your typical ultra-modern, sports-performance sailcloth-style straps. They’re made with a nod toward traditional aesthetics and construction. A few things stand out […] Visit Strap Review: Testing Out The New Delugs Sailcloth Straps to read the full article.
Fratello
Fratello Talks: Could This Be The Next New Rolex?
Hello, and welcome to Fratello Talks. Could this be the next new Rolex? In today’s episode, we put ourselves in the shoes of the brand’s product developers and exchanged some pitches about what kind of watch we’d love to see Rolex release next. We fully acknowledge it’s practically impossible to guess The Crown’s next move. Still, […] Visit Fratello Talks: Could This Be The Next New Rolex? to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Opinion: Patek Philippe, the Cubitus, and Elitism in Modern Watchmaking
Last month, Patek Philippe launched their first new watch collection in decades: the Cubitus. It was met with, as you’ve surely seen by now, a chorus of widespread skepticism and bewilderment. Ostensibly a replacement for the now discontinued stainless steel Nautilus, the Cubitus borrows the bracelet and dial treatment from that watch, and makes the case square. The consensus seems to be that they turned one of the most elegant luxury sports watches ever made into something ungainly, and they didn’t even take the time to do it in a thoughtful way. Words like “lazy” and “ugly” fill out the diatribes from commenters who disapprove. For me and the rest of the team at Worn & Wound, new releases from Patek Philippe are something of a spectator sport. I can’t speak for all of my colleagues, but feelings about the brand range from lukewarm appreciation for watches that are objectively well made and designed, to a more straight up boredom (that’s me), to some version of the “I don’t think of you at all” Mad Men meme (also me). It’s fair to say, though, that none of us are die hard Patek fans in the same way, for instance, that we follow new releases from brands like, I dunno, Grand Seiko, Christopher Ward, Armin Strom, Garrick, Tudor, and the like. The watches we get excited about span a huge range of accessibility both in terms of price and actual availability. But a good watch is a good watch. This is all to say, it shouldn’t be much of a surprise t...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Timex x The James Brand Titanium Automatic GMT ‘Emerald Edition’
Recently, Timex joined forces with The James Brand to release what many consider a game-changer in the world of affordable GMTs: a titanium-cased automatic GMT that married the utility-focused aesthetic of The James Brand with Timex's watchmaking expertise.
Fratello
Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph Limited Edition In Full Rose Gold Attire
The new stainless steel Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph was among our favorite releases during Watches and Wonders 2023. The contrast between the clean blue/gray sunburst dial and the open-worked chronograph dial especially earned our admiration. Of course, the version with a rose gold case and indexes on its black sunburst dial was also very impressive. […] Visit Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph Limited Edition In Full Rose Gold Attire to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – Moritz Grossmann Celebrates its 16th Anniversary with the Enamel Roman Vintage
Moritz Grossmann (1826-1855) was one of the founding fathers of Glashütte’s proud watchmaking tradition. However, his death in 1855 marked the extinction of the brand that was acquired by watchmaker Christine Hutter in 2008. Having forged its own identity with 16 in-house calibres and a commitment to Schönstes deutsches Handwerk (the most beautiful German craftsmanship), […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph, now in full Pink Gold
The classic Reverso Chronograph, a watch initially presented in 1996, is a piece of great historical importance. It was the first manually wound integrated chronograph to be developed in the post-quartz era, marking the return to classic watchmaking. Last year, Jaeger-LeCoultre presented the Reverso Tribute Chronograph, a Duoface model looking back at this 1990s classic, […]
Time+Tide
What’s next for Seiko’s Australian limited-edition adventures?
Australia has been treated to quite a few limited-edition Seikos recently. What's next?The post What’s next for Seiko’s Australian limited-edition adventures? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Owner’s Review: the Rolex Oysterquartz 17013
When I began this journey, many years ago and aided by guiding voices from the wider watch community in its various guises, there seemed to be many arbitrary categories than one needed to ‘fill’ in order to have a complete collection. A diver, a dress watch, a chronograph, a beater. These are generally understandable distinctions, even though they are still fairly arbitrary categories which seem to be mostly designed as a justification for buying a new watch. Thankfully, a prevailing tide of “buy what you like” swept over my own journey, and I ended up creating my own categories. In some cases they are rather hard to define, but do the job of ensuring I don’t have too much overlap – meaning everything gets worn. One category I never bought into was the “birth year” watch. Why would it be important to own a watch that was made in the same year I was born? Unfortunately, as I have aged I have grown more fond of watches produced around that time, and I have also become more comfortable in embracing my age (but note that I’m still trying not to give too much away). As such, when a birth year Rolex Oysterquartz Ref 17013 listed for sale, appeared fleetingly on my Instagram feed as I opened the app (before disappearing from sight), I was drawn to it. Fortunately, I recognized the style and composition of the photography and quickly tracked down the watch at UK based reseller Kibble Watches. When I saw the production year, wheels set in motion in my brain about ...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Race-Ready Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Vendée Globe
Ulysse Nardin has legitimate, historical maritime credentials, supplying more than 50 navies and merchant marine companies with precision marine deck chronometers in the 1870s. Proud of its seafaring past, Ulysse Nardin is back in the official timekeeping helm of the legendary Vendée Globe single-handed, non-stop, non-assisted round-the-world sailing race. To celebrate its second partnership with […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Line Expands with New Ceramic Models
A classic from Blancpain‘s range of sports watches, the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe is a sleeker and more daily-oriented vision of a dive watch. Available in a host of materials (titanium, gold or ceramic), in various sizes and with an array of complications, the brand now returns to classic functions with two new time-and-date editions and […]
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Tourbillons, Marquetry and Multi-Axis
Continuing its annual tradition, Vacheron Constantin (VC) reveals the year’s Les Cabinotiers collection of one-of-a-kind watches that are both technically complex and decorated by skilled artisans. The line-up includes two distinct tourbillon offerings, Le Temps Divin Ode to the Four Guardians featuring marquetry dials inspired by mythical animals of East Asia, and Le Temps Divin Armillary Tourbillon Greek Mythology, a pair of double-axis tourbillons featuring hand-engraved decor. “Divine time” Known for its pursuit of traditional artisanal techniques like enamelling, wood marquetry, and engraving, the Geneva watchmaker integrates such decorative techniques into its Metiers d’Art and Les Cabinotiers timepieces, which are as much works of art as they are timekeepers. This year’s collection is titled Le Temps Divin, or “Divine Time”. Though united by a tourbillon regulator, the new models are each very different, both in the thematic inspirations as well as the decorative and technical execution. Le Temps Divin refers to the mythological concepts of time from different cultural perspectives. The quartet of “Ode to the Four Guardians” tourbillons is inspired by four mythological creatures of East Asian culture, each representing one season. The Armillary Tourbillon pair, on the other hand, focuses on the ancient Greek god of time, the titan Chronos. The fabled creatures of the East Ode to the Four Guardians draws inspiration from the four seasons and the...
Quill & Pad
Behind The Lens: Rolex GMT-Master II Meteorite: Global Travel Meets Outer Space
GaryG had the opportunity to borrow a Rolex GMT-Master II BLRO Meteorite from a long-time friend to photograph and wear. This watch's main event is the dial, a thin slice of metallic meteorite whose crystalline structure reflects the slow cooling process that took place as the meteor hurtled through space. Here he tries a variety of photographic techniques to learn which works best on the dial's unique structures. Which are your favorites?
SJX Watches
Zenith Beefs Up the Retro Defy Diver
Chunky and water resistant to 600 m, the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver is based on the Defy A3648 of 1969. It shares the distinctive styling of the vintage original, but the Extreme Diver is modern in construction and specs. The case is titanium while the bezel is black ceramic. Originally introduced with either a black or blue dial, the Extreme Diver now gets a silver dial while retaining the signature bright orange flange. Initial thoughts Zenith’s catalogue includes several sports watches, including the Chronomaster Sport, but the Defy Extreme Diver is arguably the most distinctive design. With historical roots in the vintage Defy A3648, the Extreme Diver is also original. And the watch also manages to look entirely modern, despite preserving most of the design elements of the vintage original, including the angular case and 14-sided inner bezel. The Extreme Defy is one of Zenith’s pricier time-and-date watches at CHF10,900, but is still a reasonable value proposition considering the in-house movement and overall build quality. Stars Rated to 600 m just like the vintage A3648, the Extreme Diver has a case of brushed titanium measuring 42.5 mm in diameter and 15.5 mm in thickness. Around the trademark 14-sided inner bezel is a unidirectional black ceramic bezel with fluted edges for grip. Large titanium crown guards protect the fluted screw-in crown at three. The dial is finished in silvery-white with sunburst brushing. Like other Defy models, the dial is decorated wit...