Time+Tide
DWISS marks 15 years with two new S1 Wandering Hours anniversary editions
Unconventional time display specialists DWISS are celebrating their 15th anniversary, and have released two special S1's to mark the occasion
Results for Equation of Time
35,444 articles · 155 videos found · page 594 of 1187
Time+Tide
Deployant
Review: new Japanese independent Nouvelle Chronometrie’s Montre Ordinaire
I explored a new Japanese independent maison and the First Edition of their launch watch - the Nouvelle Chronometrie Montre Ordinaire.
Monochrome
Introducing - The new Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 3SPC.2-1
Following the resurrection of the name Ferdinand Berthoud by Chopard’s co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele in 2015, with the introduction of the Chronomètre FB1, a superb tourbillon watch with fusée-and-chain device, followed by the no less spectacular Chronomètre FB2, the brand presented another award-winning watch, a superb wrist chronometer with cylindrical balance-spring named the Chronomètre FB 3SPC – […]
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Greubel Forsey Balancier 3 Blue And An Intro To Bonniksen
Double tourbillons, quadruple tourbillons, movements assembled with such three-dimensional ambition that they sit like sci-fi architecture on the wrist, every time I have a Greubel Forsey in hand, I'm reminded just how much the brand operates in its own lane. Yet there has always been something faintly contradictory about the Balancier 3, the model the brand first introduced in 2023 as its most moderate, most structurally legible entry point. With three bridges, a clean balance, no tourbillon, and no theatre, the Balancier 3 on paper is reserved. And yet my first thought with this recently released version on the wrist is that even a restrained Greubel Forsey is a startling object. Balanced beautifully between spotlighting its technicality and marrying that with a new execution, this might be the brand's simplest watch on paper, but it is not, by any reasonable measure, a simple watch. The Balancier 3 has been with us for three years now, and with this latest edition, the large central bridge has been hand-frosted across its entire curved surface. The result is a deep, matte texture, the kind of pronounced surface that a machine couldn't lay down convincingly on a shape this complex, running from the edge of the movement between one and two o'clock down to the seconds between seven and eight. Around it, the balance and barrel bridges remain in a bright, polished titanium, producing an incredibly captivating contrast of reflection and depth. Then there is the blue, worked i...
Monochrome
First Look - The New Zenith Defy Extreme Lapis Lazuli II and Ultraviolet
The Zenith Defy Extreme is not a watch designed for discretion. This most radical interpretation of the brand’s high-frequency chronograph features an oversized architectural case with an openworked display and offers a spectacle of a central chronograph hand completing one rotation every second. Since the series was introduced, Zenith has produced quite a few bold […]
Fratello
The Oris Divers Date Is Now Available With A Matte Green Dial
It’s hard to believe it’s been almost two years since Oris introduced the Divers Date. The modern successor to the popular Divers Sixty-Five brought a handful of welcome upgrades, including a ceramic bezel, an updated bracelet, and a bump in water resistance. Now, the brand introduces the first new dial for the regular lineup. This […] Visit The Oris Divers Date Is Now Available With A Matte Green Dial to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
Hands-On With The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon Saxem
Hublot’s Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon SAXEM is one of those watches that leave you in awe, combining neon sapphire brilliance with high-complication tourbillon watchmaking. What We Love The bold Yellow Neon SAXEM case completely transforms under different lighting. The skeletonised dial offers a beautifully balanced design that gives the watch real mechanical theatre. Few watches in watchmaking will command attention quite like this, especially in natural light. What We Don’t The 44mm case size wears better than expected, but it is still on the larger side. Even sapphire lovers may find the Yellow Neon SAXEM a lot to handle. A black structured strap option would let the case and dial take centre stage even more, while simultaneously reducing the overall ‘distinctive’ presence of the watch. Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value For Money: 8.5/10 Design: 9.0/10 Wearability: 8.0/10 Build Quality: 9.0/10 Few timepieces in the world of watchmaking can grab attention like a bright yellow-coloured watch. Now imagine adding a transparent sapphire case to the mix, and suddenly, you have something that becomes almost impossible to ignore on the wrist. That is exactly what we get with the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon SAXEM. This is a watch that does not ask to be seen, but rather commands it the moment you see it. In that regard, this, in my opinion, is the kind of timepiece that perfectly encapsulates what Hublot is all about. Since the beginnin...
Time+Tide
Why does Leica make watches?
They may be best known for their cameras, but the watch department at Leica is starting to get a lot of focus.
Worn & Wound
Studio Underd0g Updates their Spin on the Field Watch with the 02SERIES GEN2
In our over-saturated world of often austere dive watches and overwrought Explorer-likes, Studio Underd0g’s lineup is a continued breath of fresh, colorful air. The British brand’s signature style takes playful color schemes and theming, and applies them to rock-solid mechanical underpinnings to create a series of sporty timepieces that are instantly distinguishable from anything else on the market. Their 02SERIES of field watches, originally launched in 2023, has proven massively popular, with its “floating” numerals and deliciously bright seven-layer dials, topped off with a sapphire disc for depth effect. Joining that line is the GEN2 wave, which sees two new colorways, a slimmer case design, and some more mechanical tricks. The GEN2 is housed in a familiar 316L stainless steel case, slimmed down to 11.5mm in thickness, a 37.5mm diameter measurement, and a 18mm lug width. This makes it, deceptively, slightly bigger in diameter than the original 02SERIES watches, but noticeably thinner, giving it a lighter profile on the wrist despite the size difference. Inside beats the stalwart Sellita SW200-2 M manual-winding movement with hacking, though the power reserve has also been tinkered with, now offering 63 hours of off-the-wrist time before the hands stop. The two-part case construction, screw-down case back with jellyfish motif, and signed crown add touches of refinement to the otherwise fairly simple 02SSERIES GEN2 watches, and all come with a matching, colorway-...
Monochrome
First Look - Chopard Releases Three New Mille Miglia Classic Chronographs in Historic Racing Colours
Chopard has been the World Sponsor and Official Timekeeper of the Mille Miglia since 1988, and the collection bearing the race’s name has evolved continuously since then. This year, Chopard returns to the compact Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph design introduced in 2023 with three country-exclusive editions inspired by historic national racing colours. The use of […]
Time+Tide
Studio Underd0g revisits its cult field watch with a refined second-generation 02SERIES
A subtle update to one of the watch world's biggest rebels as the Studio Underd0g field watch gets a few minor tweaks of improvement.
Fratello
Studio Underd0g’s Second-Generation 02Series Becomes An Even More Seriously Fun Collection
Three years ago, Richard Benc and his Studio Underd0g brand released the 02Series collection. The design was based on the iconic Dirty Dozen field watches, with the addition of Studio Underd0g’s typical playful sauce, of course. That resulted in four versions, all of which shared the same layered dial construction. Except for the matte black […] Visit Studio Underd0g’s Second-Generation 02Series Becomes An Even More Seriously Fun Collection to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Introducing the Anoma A1 Prehistoric
Anoma has announced the latest version of the A1, their watch with a unique triangular shape that brand founder Matteo Violet Vianello says was inspired by a free-form table designed by Charlotte Perriand in the 1950s. There have been a variety of derivations of the original A1 design since it launched, and it’s been a surprisingly versatile canvas for a number of different ideas and points of reference. The thing I like most about the Anoma project, even more than the shape of the watch itself, which I like a lot, is that those ideas largely come from outside the watch world. This industry is filled with references to its own past, and sometimes new watches feel like fist bumps acknowledging and celebrating, well, themselves. It’s refreshing to see a brand celebrating an artistic world that extends beyond watches – it really expands the aperture on what’s possible in terms of design. Anoma’s latest, the appropriately named Prehistoric, was inspired by a visit to the Brancusi sculpture exhibition at the Centre Pompidou in Paris. The exhibition features primitive artifacts that Brancusi saw as the earliest examples of human creativity. The objects, such as arrow heads, axes, and other tools, got Vianello thinking about what is actually essential in design, and what is excessive. He was also influenced by the physicality of these objects, and how evidence of their making, the crude handwork, was still present thousands of years after their creation. The Prehist...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Anoma A1 Prehistoric
What We Know Matteo Violet Vianello found the idea for his newest watch while standing in a room full of prehistoric tools. At the Centre Pompidou's Brancusi exhibition in Paris a couple of years back, Vianello, the man behind Anoma, saw the sculptor's collection of primitive tools and artifacts, which stopped him—and stayed with him. That visit became the starting point for the A1 Prehistoric, the latest limited run built on Anoma's signature triangular case. The case itself is hand-chiseled 316L stainless steel, a five-hour process undertaken by Steven Brunel, a French engraver whose work has been exhibited at the Louvre. Brunel works out of a workshop in Mornand-en-Forez, a village of about 500 people in the Loire region. The buckle receives the same treatment. Because the chiseling is done entirely by hand, Anoma says no two pieces will be identical. The dial carries the process further. Roughly 600 individual lines are cut by hand into a brass base in a sunburst pattern, then finished in a dark anthracite color meant to recall the look of worked stone or flint. Specs remain close to the standard A1: the case measures 39mm by 38mm, wearing closer to 37mm thanks to its lugless, triangular shape, with a 9.45mm thickness. Inside is the Swiss automatic Sellita SW100, the same movement Anoma has used across its lineup, running in a case rated to 50 meters of water resistance. The watch comes on a grey-grained Italian leather strap. Anoma will build 100 examples of the A1 ...
Monochrome
First Look - The New, Bolder and Sharper Hermès Cape Cod in Titanium
Since its debut in 1991, the Cape Cod has occupied a special position within the Hermès watch collection. Designed by Henri d’Origny (who also created the Arceau in 1978), its instantly recognisable “square within a rectangle” case was inspired not by an equestrian universe but by the links of an anchor chain, resulting in one […]
Fratello
IFL Watches Revisits The Koi Fish Concept For The IFLW × Citizen Tsuyosa Shore Mako
IFL Watches moves fast. The brand creates one limited-edition model after another, all featuring hand-painted dials. With those many creations also comes a great variety of watches that serve as canvases for custom artwork. The latest model added to the lineup is the Citizen Tsuyosa Shore series. Quickly after the launch of this recent Tsuyosa […] Visit IFL Watches Revisits The Koi Fish Concept For The IFLW × Citizen Tsuyosa Shore Mako to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look - The New, Summer-Inspired IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35 Pool
IWC’s Ingenieur tool watch, introduced in the mid-1950s, was specifically designed to handle magnetic environments thanks to its soft-iron cage. However, in 1976, the classic round watch fell into the hands of Gérald Genta, who transformed it into an integrated, anti-magnetic tool watch known as the Ingenieur SL Jumbo. After several remakes, the Ingenieur finally […]
Time+Tide
IWC makes the Ingenieur 35 ready for summer with new Pool colour dial
A splash of summer hits this fan favourite integrated bracelet sports watch with this new blue-green dial shade.
Fratello
We Didn’t Scratch It! Hands-On With The Stone-Washed Montblanc Iced Sea Automatic Date 0 Oxygen
I swear, the watch came out of the box looking like this; we didn’t do anything to scuff it up. The brand that sent us the watch did this on purpose. The latest Montblanc Iced Sea Automatic Date 0 Oxygen is a black dive watch that looks like it has been diving in the harshest […] Visit We Didn’t Scratch It! Hands-On With The Stone-Washed Montblanc Iced Sea Automatic Date 0 Oxygen to read the full article.
SJX Watches
In Depth: Patek Philippe Star Caliber 2000
The Star Caliber 2000 occupies a peculiar position in the history of grand complications. It was never the most complicated watch in the world. At its debut it ranked fourth — behind Patek Philippe’s own Calibre 89 and Graves Supercomplication, and the Leroy 01 — and in the quarter-century since, the complexity record has moved further still, most notably to Vacheron Constantin. The complication arms race the Calibre 89 inadvertently triggered ran its full course, and the Star Caliber 2000 was never part of it. What it did instead was something harder to measure and, as it turns out, more durable. It demonstrated that the tradition’s inheritance of unsolved problems — the desynchronised equation, the imperfect melody, and the moon exiled from the sky — was not inevitable. That each problem had a solution. And that the solutions, taken together, produced a different kind of watch: not necessarily more complicated but more coherent; not a larger accumulation of independent mechanisms but an integrated instrument in which every display refers to a single source of truth. The arms race In early 1989, as Switzerland prepared to celebrate the most complicated portable timepiece ever made, the man who had just assembled it returned to his bench. Paul Buclin had spent years assembling and setting up the Calibre 89 by hand — 1,728 components driving 33 complications. Weighing most of a kilogram, the watch itself required its own carrying case. The watch was a monument...
WristBuzz
First Look: The IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35 'Pool' Dial (Ref. IW324902)
IWC's compact 35mm Ingenieur gets a summer-ready Pool blue dial with the familiar grid pattern. Cal. 47110 automatic (Cartier 1847 MC base), 100m water-resistance, integrated steel bracelet. €11,100, part of the permanent collection.
Fratello
Forstner Brings Out Bracelets For The IWC Mark XV
I have a form when it comes to writing about the IWC Mark XV. In fact, I previously called it my GADA watch of choice, praising the 38mm pilot’s watch for its balance, restraint, and everyday usability. The trouble with many vintage or neo-vintage timepieces, however, is that finding bracelets worthy of them can become […] Visit Forstner Brings Out Bracelets For The IWC Mark XV to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre Videos
We Bought a $42 Watch From India
In today's video, Executive Producer Jonathan McWhorter gives a closer look at his latest watch purchase: a $42 watch made in India. The Terra by Delhi Watch Co. created a lot of unexpected buzz on social media when it was announced earlier this year, Jonathan bought the new Terra in Titanium by Indian microbrand Delhi
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Best Field Watches Under $500 We’ve Ever Reviewed Hands-on
The best field watches under $500 aren't always the obvious ones. Read through our hands-on verdicts to find out the winners that earned lasting wrist time.
Fratello
Why Watch Renders So Frequently Leave Us Underwhelmed
There’s a specific kind of disappointment that comes from encountering a watch on a brand’s website and feeling precisely nothing. The dial is sharp, the case gleams, and the lug angles are geometrically perfect. And yet, somehow, you close the tab unmoved. You’ve just been the victim of a render. It looked fine, sure, but […] Visit Why Watch Renders So Frequently Leave Us Underwhelmed to read the full article.
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner - The New Turbo S, The Best 911 Porsche Has Ever Built?
How much horsepower is enough? Or better yet, how much horsepower is too much? While there’s surely no definitive answer, it seems like there’s no end to the power craze in performance cars. The latest generation of Super- and Hypercars are almost always pushing 1,000-horsepower figures, or more, and we’re not even touching upon full […]
SJX Watches
SJX Podcast: American Independents
This weekend, the United States marks its 250th Independence Day — the perfect opportunity to reflect on recent American contributions to the field of horology. On episode 43 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss the latest entry in this field — the Liberty 250 from 1776 Atelier — and break down the claim that 90% of its components are manufactured in the US. The conversation also discusses RGM and J.N. Shapiro — brands that have contributed substantially to contemporary American watchmaking. Finally, to look into the future we go back to school by visiting the Watch Technology Institute in Seattle — the last remaining full-time public watchmaking programme in the US capable of granting a major certification. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: Great Vintage Watches from Zenith, Omega, Seiko, and More!
eBay Finds is back! This bi-weekly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Zenith A3630 Vintage Diver Here’s a rare gem to start us off this week, a vintage Zenith diver with original bracelet! This Zenith A3630 has a classically styled 38mm diver case in steel that looks to be unpolished. It does have some wear consistent with use and its age, but it does not look abused. The matte black dial looks excellent, with a contrasting white outer chapter ring and applied steel markers, and an unobtrusive date window at 4:30. The steel hands have large lume plots, and the hour hand has a nice big arrow tip for easy reading. The oversize crown is signed with the Zenith star symbol. The aluminum elapsed time bezel insert has some nice fading to it, but overall it’s in good shape. This piece comes with the original Gay Freres steel bracelet with a Zenith signed buckle. The Zenith automatic movement is clean and runs well per the seller. Great hard to find vintage diver! View auction here Heuer Autavia 1163 Vintage Chronograph Next up is another heavy hitter, a vintage Heuer Autavia 1163 chronograph. Wow, this beast is a real beauty. The 42mm steel cushion case is superb, unpolished with crisp edges and the original brushed finish. The black dial looks original an...
SJX Watches
American Independent 1776 Atelier Debuts the Liberty 250
Texas-based independent 1776 Atelier commemorates America’s 250th year with the Liberty 250, a rose gold skeleton watch with sharp anglage on a movement that is overwhelmingly American made, from the main plate to the free-sprung balance. Initial thoughts The American watch industry transformed from a cottage industry heavily reliant on European imports to the world’s largest watch manufacturer in just a few decades, concentrated around a handful of massive, and capital intensive, factories. This meant that when Waltham, Elgin, and Hamilton closed their American factories in 1957, 1968, and 1969, respectively, the entire domestic watchmaking disappeared almost overnight. 1776 Atelier is one of a handful of independents trying to rebuild it. Founder Jason Lu is a Texan technology executive turned self-taught watchmaker who cut his teeth restoring pocket watches as a hobby. He was later mentored by Donat Kornagel of DK Precision — a prolific German movement customiser — and took anglage-guru Philippe Narbel‘s full week masterclass. Co-founder Zach Smith — WOSTEP-trained watchmaker and KERN-whisperer — also founded Hour Precision, one of the few American component suppliers. Two members of Hour Precision’s fleet of KERN CNC mills Together, their approach is antithetical to the so-called “American system” of industrial watchmaking, which failed in the US but lives on in Switzerland and Asia. Instead, they build watches in small numbers by labour-intensive ...
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A Million Valjoux 72, An 18k Gold Constellation, And A Sarpaneva Moomin
Happy Friday again, Ballers, and congrats to whoever snagged the Omega 2998-4 on Goodwill earlier this week. I'm fighting multiple aspects of my nature—as a midwesterner and a dad—to avoid making lame jokes about the heat, but fingers crossed, the fever's breaking, and it'll return to average temperatures sometime soon for all of us. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Hamilton sold for $4,300, the Speedmaster Soyuz for €18,000, and the Universal Genève Rattrapante for GBP 4,250 . The Goldpfiel Vianney Halter sold, but the auction house hasn't listed the price online and hasn't responded to my email, so we'll all have to live with the mystery. Strays I mentioned Always Sunny last week, and now this week there's this exquisite Movado Ermeto with a caseback dedication—Dennis from Mac—that feels too good not to include. I figured it'd be fun to stir the pot last week and argue the Hamilton Model 21 as the Most Important American Watch in history. For whatever it's worth, the runner-up would've been the Bulova Accutron, and the purest expression of that watch is the Spaceview, of which there's a nice (though non-running) version available here, which auction lot also includes a Spaceman watch (also not working), and the Spaceman, for what it's worth, deserves more oddball attention. Photo courtesy of Seuyco. Here's an almost comically reserved but gorgeous Grand Seiko SBGW235, and, in the same auction, here's what sure seems to be a great example of an IWC 'Steril...