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Monochrome
One of the earliest dive watches, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms has long been one of the most emblematic models available on the market. In 2007, the classic Fifty Fathoms Automatique (ref. 5015) arrived with its large (even oversized) 45mm case and calibre 1315 – two fundamental elements of the permanent collection. And this size has […]
Teddy Baldassarre
[This feature article has been updated to incorporate the newest models – including the new 42mm and 38mm sizes – in the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms collection as of 2025. Prices listed are current as of this article's posting but subject to change.] Founded in 1735 in Villeret, Switzerland, Blancpain is the oldest luxury watchmaker in the world, full stop. The 287-year-old manufacture, now headquartered in Le Brassus in the Swiss Vallée de Joux, has an uninterrupted history of producing horological complications but its most iconic timepiece in this modern era began its life as a tool watch for military divers in the (relatively) recent year of 1953. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, however, is not just any tool watch; it’s recognized as one of the foundational examples of the modern dive watch, helping to establish a template that many others would follow. Today, it’s the foundation for a vast and versatile collection within the Blancpain portfolio - despite the fact that the watch almost didn’t make it out of the 1970s. DIVING INTO HISTORY The quest to make a watch water-resistant enough for diving was already well underway when Jean-Jacques Fiechter, then-CEO of Blancpain, began working on the watch that would become the Fifty Fathoms. Rolex had developed the water-resistant Oyster case in 1926, which paved the way for watches such as Panerai’s Radiomir in 1936, which combined a waterproof case with a luminous dial for the underwater missions of the Italian n...
Deployant
Amida releases another version of their stunning driver's watch , now with a sapphire crystal hood. With live photographs and hands on commentary.
SJX Watches
Urban Jürgensen has been revived in fine style thanks to its investors and of course Kari Voutilainen. With the Finn in charge of watchmaking, the reborn brand made its debut with a trio of watches led by the flagship Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon. Inspired by the Oval pocket watch made by Derek Pratt for Urban Jürgensen, the UJ-1 is impressive in its execution, from construction to decoration. The quality is evident across the watch, which is unsurprising given Mr Voutilainen’s role in its conception and production. And the occasionally controversial lugs give an otherwise classical watch a distinct character. Initial thoughts The fine details of the UJ-1 are easily apparent in the metal. The movement decoration and construction are both impeccable, and so is the guilloche on the dial. But it is details like the engine turned case back and typography that give the UJ-1 that little bit of extra refinement. It is obvious from the photos, the movement quality is outstanding. Frosting, black polishing, chamfering, and so on – all are expertly accomplished. Moreover, all of the decoration is done in a traditional, often manual manner, rather than being mostly done by machine and then finished off by hand as is increasingly the case now. But finishing is merely the more obvious aspect of the appeal. The construction of the movement is equally impressive. It captures the style of the Oval pocket watch, including the three-dimensionality and clean aesthetics. Even though...
Monochrome
Ressence’s partnership with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, UAE’s leading watch and jewellery retailer, has produced a series of limited editions over the years, each celebrating local heritage through innovative design. From the Type 1 DXB with its Arabesque-inspired grid motif to the Type 1 Slim DX2, and the Type 1 DX3 featuring traditional Girih geometric […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Field watches are among the most straightforwardly utilitarian of timepieces, deriving their design and functionality from early 20th century timepieces worn by soldiers and other military operators “in the field,” hence the umbrella term. While they will vary in their design elements and details, field watches (earlier models were also called “trench watches,” a reference to their usage in the trench warfare of World War I) are recognizable for a handful of elements that are mostly omnipresent: clean, highly legible dials with few if any superfluous subdials (some use a small seconds display); luminous hands and numerals; big, readable hour markers (mostly Arabic numerals, occasionally indexes; the "purist" version of a field watch dial likely includes a 12-hour scale with an additional 13-24-hour ring for military time, as you'll note in many of the models here); and a general sense of toughness and reliability while being understated in both size and design (the smaller and lighter the watch, the less burden on a soldier already loaded with gear). Many of these qualities also define the style elements of early pilot's watches, with which field watches share many MIL-SPEC similarities, hence the occasional crossover model. Here are 25 modern-day field watches (or watches that tick the "field watch" boxes nicely) that are on the market in 2022. For browsing and shopping convenience, we list them in ascending order of price, from everyday models around $200 to luxu...
Monochrome
Watchmaking is generally considered serious business. Luckily, there are more and more brands that embrace humour. Which is not to say they are not serious about their watches; far from it. Louis Erard, under the inspired leadership of Manuel Emch, is one such brand, enlisting famous designers like Alain Silberstein to enliven models with his […]
SJX Watches
Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin are closing their “Time Eater” collaboration with the final pair in the series, the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin III Blue and Red. Retaining the familiar “cyclops” regulator dial inspired by the Russian watchmaker’s Wristmons, the new pair will be the last collaboration between the two in this format. Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin are working on future collaborations, but those will be in a different style. The blue version is 42 mm and available only from Louis Erard, while the red model is 39 mm and will be sold only by Konstantin Chaykin. The 42 mm model in blue Initial thoughts Louis Erard has done a great number of collaborations with independent watchmakers, but the Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater ranks amongst the best of them. Like the second Vianney Halter collab, the Time Eater captures the spirit of the watchmaker’s original creation while being affordable. I look forward to the next collaboration with Mr Chaykin, because I am sure it will be interesting. Admittedly the latest pair are only a cosmetic tweak on the earlier editions, but the Time Eater is still an appealing concept that’s priced right. Both versions adopts the standard Louis Erard regulator case, which makes it a little too thick, but that’s an acceptable compromise for affordability. The two are the third Time Eater project, and Louis Erard chief Manuel Emch has confirmed they will close the Time Eater regulator series. The ...
Monochrome
Bovet, the historic Swiss brand founded in 1822, was revived by Pascal Raffy in 2001 as a temple of haute horlogerie. Since then, the brand has become synonymous with high-end complications decorated with lavish artistic flourishes. One of the more ‘straightforward’ collections in Bovet’s universe is the 19Thirty, a time-only model with a unique and […]
Deployant
Kudoke celebrates 20 years of independenct horology with a new version of the Kudoke 2 as the 2025 SHH Edition. Details on the novelty here.
Quill & Pad
If we (collectors, journalists, lovers of luxury) agree that the best brands combine heritage, an intense dedication to craft, and the execution of a modern marketing plan designed to reach a new generation of watch aficionados, then the new Urban Jürgensen has got it nailed.
Fratello
Seiko unveiled the new SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87, and SRPL89 only a few weeks ago. The new quartet is part of the Seiko 5 Sports lineup, more specifically, the so-called “SKX series.” But with that classification comes some mental gymnastics. When Seiko introduced the 5 Sports line in 2019, the brand was adamant that the newly […] Visit Contextualizing The Seiko 5 Sports SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87, And SRPL89 to read the full article.
Fratello
Admittedly, I didn’t have a retro diver from Girard-Perrergaux on my list of predictions for 2025. Yet, just a month ago, I visited our site, and a bright blue and orange watch was beaming back at me. The Deep Diver Legacy Edition proves that the Swiss brand can still get funky, even if that means […] Visit Hands-On With The New Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver Legacy Edition to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Take a tour of this year's Goodwood Members' Meet with us as we go full throttle into the automotive world with IWC. The post What it’s like at the Goodwood Members’ Meet with IWC appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Every year, the anticipation of summer grows parallel to the rise in temperature. Days get longer, hotter, and more action-packed with outdoor activities, and the lust for some refreshing coolness increases exponentially. And like every year, watch brands tap into this fun-in-the-sun season with a range of colourful watches to match the beachy vibes of […]
Fratello
I remember the first time I saw the Armin Strom One Week. It was during Geneva Watch Days in 2023, and the setting couldn’t have been more memorable. While most brands hosted their meetings in the shaded, sepia-toned suites of the Beau Rivage, Armin Strom had something different in mind. I followed the address provided […] Visit Hands-On: The Armin Strom One Week Skeleton Titanium Is Stripped Back And Stepped Up to read the full article.
Fratello
Another Sunday, another showdown! This week, we pit two sub-€1k sports watches with integrated bracelets against each other. In the blue corner, we have Daan defending the Citizen Zenshin 60. Meanwhile, in the red corner, we have Thomas with the BA111OD Chapter 7. Let’s see who delivers the knockout punch this week! Of course, before […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: BA111OD Chapter 7 Vs. Citizen Zenshin 60 to read the full article.
Fratello
CIGA Design makes distinctive-looking watches. Perfectly round cases and dials with depictions of the Earth offer something truly different in a market full of traditional timepieces. Until now, though, these planetary watches have featured the Pacific Ocean and Asia. Finally, we have a new Blue Planet II Atlantic for those connected to other parts of […] Visit Introducing: The CIGA Design Blue Planet II Atlantic to read the full article.
Deployant
Breitling’s refreshed Superocean Heritage collection maintains its emphasis on style-driven dive watches but leans further into luxury positioning with its refined aesthetics and introduction of the new B31 manufacture movement.
Teddy Baldassarre
The first Citizen titanium watch hit the market more than 50 years ago, and while it probably didn’t receive the breathless coverage that it may have garnered in today’s watch media, it was a watershed moment for the industry. Many watch brands make titanium watches today, but few of them have made the metal a signature of its identity to the extent that Citizen has, and fewer still have even attempted what the Japanese watchmaking giant has achieved in terms of improving and plumbing the full, unrealized potential of titanium. In this feature, we explore Citizen’s history in titanium watches and spotlight some of its most historic pieces, from 1970 to today. Long before it entered the watchmaking arena in the late 20th Century, titanium had played a role in numerous industrial developments. It was first discovered in 1791 by clergyman and mineralogist William Gregor, in Cornwall, Great Britain, and named several years later by German chemist William Kaproth, who had previously discovered Uranium. Like the latter element, named for the Greek god (and planet) Uranus, titanium’s name comes from a mythological source, the Titans who preceded the Olympian gods. Some of its earliest applications as a mineral ore included titanium dioxide, in products like white pigment, and titanium tetrachloride, in hydrochloric acid and smoke screens. Later, alloyed with metals like iron, molybdenum, aluminum, and vanadium, titanium became prized for its high strength-to-weight rati...
Fratello
My Speedmaster “Ed White,” 10 years older than my car, made the trip almost untouched. I can’t say the same about my Land Rover, which left me behind three times due to fuel-delivery issues. Otherwise, it was one beautiful trip full of dust, off-the-grid gravel roads, majestic views, jokes on walkie-talkies, dreaming in the forest, […] Visit Retrospective: Lost In Bosnia With A Land Rover And An Omega Speedmaster “Ed White” to read the full article.
Time+Tide
We're pretty excited about the news, and it seems like the rest of the press are joining us in this excitement. The post The press is talking about our move to NYC appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The majority of today's numerous flieger-style watches are inspired by the now-iconic German pilot’s and navigator's watches of World War II, becoming a genre unto themselves. Bhanu Chopra flies high to take a deep dive into the long history of this popular style.
WatchAdvice
Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive U.F.A (SLGB003) sets a new benchmark in mechanical watchmaking with an astonishing ±20 seconds per year accuracy. Wrapped in a new slimmer Evolution 9 case and finished with a dial inspired by winter in Shinshu, it’s a masterclass in subtle innovation and timeless elegance. What We Love The Calibre 9RB2 delivers an incredible +/- 20 seconds per year, redefining what is possible from a mainspring-powered mechanical movement The new 37mm case size makes the timepiece highly wearable for a wide range of wrist sizes. The beautifully textured dial captures Grand Seiko’s unique blend of craftsmanship and storytelling. What We Don’t While very comfortable, the standard three-link bracelet feels a little too plain for a release of this calibre. For a groundbreaking caliber, the caseback view feels a little subdued. For such a significant release, the design feels a little too in line with previous Evolution 9 models. Overall Rating: 9.25 / 10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Grand Seiko was first established in 1960 as a sister brand to Seiko, created to combat the Swiss watchmakers and their high-end luxury timepieces. While Seiko made affordable everyday timepieces, It was Grand Seiko’s role to create unique, innovative pieces that would cater to the luxury and high-end watchmaking market. Among the many different innovations and stunning dial aesthetics, one key aspect that truly makes Grand S...
Quill & Pad
IWC is one of the most recognizable names in the luxury watch market. They have multiple iconic models - one of them being the Pilot’s Watch Mark collection. The Mark series began with the Mark X in 1944 and has remained somewhat constant since then. The latest in the lineup is the Mark XVIII, released in 2016. While not the newest watch from IWC, the range is iconic enough to be still talked about.
Fratello
Back in 2019, I reviewed a purple-dialed Minase Divido. The watch was, and still is, different from anything I’ve ever worn. The insane level of case finishing blew me away. The bracelet construction was just as impressive with its intricate links. So perhaps it’s only appropriate, with my evolving appreciation for vintage rectangular watches, to […] Visit Introducing: The Minase 7 Windows Steel 2.0 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
It has been a while since I last had a Monta watch on my wrist, so it was nice to approach this one with a fresh set of eyes. As one of the longer-standing smaller brands, Monta seems to be a bit of a known quantity at this point. They have very specific targets in both what they offer and their demographic, and seem to nail it almost every time in a very calculated way. Looking for an Omega Aqua Terra alternative for a fraction of the price? Check out the Monta Noble. You have a Rolex GMT Master II on your wishlist but can’t reasonably afford it, and need an alternative option? Well, there’s the Monta Skyquest for you. Thirsty for a Rolex Submariner but only looking to spend about one-third the retail price? Then, chances are good that you have already looked at previous iterations of the Monta Oceanking. I was in that camp almost a decade ago. Staring at older versions of the Aqua Terra online while signing up to be notified of the next restock of Monta Triumph models. No, I wouldn’t consider them one-to-one comparisons, as Monta does inject a bit of their own design language into each piece. However, while so many brands introduce new models year after year, chasing trends and sales, Monta instead takes the approach of refinement. Rather than pumping them out, they take in community feedback, look at their manufacturing capabilities and target price point, and make subtle but meaningful tweaks. That is how we’ve wound up with the Monta Oceanking in its third ver...
Hodinkee
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.
Monochrome
Eska may not be a well-known brand, but this revived Swiss watchmaker is gaining attention among enthusiasts. Initially founded in 1918 by Silvan Kocher (whose initials inspired the brand’s name), Eska built a reputation in the mid-20th century before succumbing to the Quartz Crisis in the 1980s. Reborn under the direction of Christophe Chevreton and […]
Monochrome
The title Just Because says it all… because today we’re not talking about the latest release of a brand for sale the next day in stores, waiting for you to spend your money. Today, we are publishing a story for a good cause, to benefit those in need, those who have fewer opportunities than many […]
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