Time+Tide
Watches and Wonders 2027 welcomes Breitling and even more into the fold
Next year's major trade show looks to expand even more with the addition of the House of Brands and even more.
Results for Equation of Time
35,444 articles · 155 videos found · page 597 of 1187
Time+Tide
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Recent Jaeger-LeCoultre Releases
Another Friday, another list! This week, we will take a look at the five best releases from one of the most talked-about brands in the past few years. Jaeger-LeCoultre made quite a few waves with its releases in 2025 and did so again at Watches and Wonders 2026. But the many great timepieces were not […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Recent Jaeger-LeCoultre Releases to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Cartier Watchmaking Prize Winners Announced
The 28th edition of the Cartier Prize for Watchmaking Talents of Tomorrow has announced the winners of the annual competition, which seeks to recognise and nurture promising young watchmakers and technicians. In total, six prizes were awarded to students from France and Belgium. Aymeric Peters won first prize in the Apprentice Watchmakers category for “Silence Choisi” Understanding the Cartier Prize The watchmaking industry faces a well-known shortage of young talent, and awards like the Cartier Prize, the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition, and the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives enhance the appeal and visibility of the profession in a meaningful way. The theme of the 28th edition of the Cartier Prize was “Shifting the Balance: Reading and Perceiving Time Differently”. This theme explains why almost all entries featured heavily abstracted time displays. Layla Sluysmans tied for second prize in the Apprentice Watchmakers category with her creation “Nymphéa” The format of the Cartier Prize differs from that of other similar awards. Finalists were chosen based on sketches and presentations, and were given just 80 hours (over three months) to complete their creations with the help of dedicated mentors. To ensure a level playing field, each candidate is provided with a Cartier cal. 012 alarm clock movement and a CHF500 budget cap. Eléonor Picciotto presided over the ceremony, and the prizes were awarded by a jury comprised of Roy Davidoff, P...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Best British Watch Brands We’ve Ever Reviewed
Explore the best British watch brands through real wrist time, with picks focused on value, design, utility, craft, and long-term enthusiast appeal.
Worn & Wound
Brew Introduces the Metric Copper, their Latest Manually Wound Watch
Is there a brand that more completely blurs the line between the definition of “microbrand” and “independent brand” than Brew? It depends, of course, on how you define each term. If a brand needs to exist in the haute horlogerie space and craft movements or other components from scratch in an artisanal way to be considered “independent,” then Brew will probably never qualify under those terms. But if your criteria is an intentional, well defined point of view on watchmaking with a clear, instantly recognizable design language, all executed according to the singular creative vision of the brand’s founder, Brew easily fits. I’ve never been one to see microbrand as a pejorative or diminishing label, but in Brew’s case I might argue that it doesn’t necessarily reflect the brand’s growth over the last decade, and the widespread recognition and popularity they’ve found outside of the enthusiast space. Importantly, Brew continues to find interesting ways to iterate on the themes established since the brand’s founding by Jonathan Ferrer, the founder and designer behind the brand. It would be easy for Brew to simply pump out new colorways for successful models, but instead they’ve taken steps (sometimes, admittedly, slower than some collectors and enthusiasts would like) to gradually expand what people think of when they consider what Brew actually is. To that end, their latest watch is a new version of their manually wound Metric (with a Swiss movemen...
Monochrome
First Look - The Union Glashütte 1893 Johannes Dürrstein Edition Double Moon Phase (incl. Video)
Over the past couple of years, we’ve come to the conclusion that Union Glashütte is quite a stand-out brand among the predominantly Swiss Made brands under the Swatch Group umbrella. It benefits from the group’s vertical integration yet is able to put its own mark on things, allowing it to hallmark its watches as Made […]
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Doxa Sub 200 T.Graph II
Continuing Doxa's focus on its core late-60s aesthetic, the brand recently unveiled the T.Graph II, the latest iteration of its core dive chronograph. Reborn but largely faithful to the original (and indeed to some more recent T.Graph forays), the new T.Graph II ports the Sub 300's classic look into a burly yet entirely wearable automatic chronograph that comes in Doxa's classic trio of colors, along with the surprise inclusion of a blue "Caribbean" execution. With a flagship price tag, it's a model that has previously been hard to source and often even more expensive, so the question becomes: is the new T.Graph II the dive-ready Doxa chronograph we've been waiting for? Don't fret, we'll get to all that and more. But first, a quick history lesson to bring us all loosely up to speed on the T.Graph, as it's a model with a cult following but was previously never made in any considerable quantity. T.Graphs Past To keep things as basic as possible (because Jason Heaton has written extensively about, and dived with, vintage T.Graphs – here with a Searambler, and here with a Sharkhunter), the new Sub 200 T.Graph II is based on a low-production design from 1969 called the Sub 200 T.Graph. While there is some contention over production numbers, it is believed that ~300 of each of the original colorways (Sharkhunter, Searambler, and Professional) were produced. Again, I recommend both of Jason's stories, even if only so you can see how absolutely gorgeous a vintage Sub 200 T.Graph...
Worn & Wound
Baltic Launches a New and Improved Scalegraph Collection
Baltic expands their Scalegraph collection today with the launch of a pair of new sporty chronographs that the brand says will be part of their permanent collection. First introduced a year ago as a limited edition, this new iteration of the Scalegraph has a number of improvements that should add up to a more refined package overall. It’s also something of a return to the brand’s roots as a maker of vintage inspired sports watches, after getting more press as of late for dabbling in affordable haute horlogerie and watches defined by the blinding bling of lab grown diamonds. As a sports chrono, the aesthetic of the Scalegraph is about as classic as you can get. It has a traditional three register layout with a tachymeter bezel, beads of rice style bracelet, and screwdown pushers. It’s heavily racing inspired, and has the simple, classic case lines of many a familiar vintage sports watch. The stainless steel case is the same 39.5mm diameter as the original Scalegraph, but Baltic says the lugs are now wider, which should give the watch some additional presence on the wrist. Baltic has also replaced circular finishing on the top of the lugs with vertical brushing, which is certainly more reminiscent of the historic chronographs manufactured by Rolex, Universal Geneve, and others, that the Scalegraph is clearly emulating, at least somewhat. The Scalegraph is available in three new colorways: Champagne, Blue, and Grey. All have tan colored contrasting subdials at 3, 6,...
Deployant
Hands-on with the new Leica SL3-P
I attended a special Leica SL preview showing of the new Leica SL3-P at Leica Singapore recently. Here are the specifications and my hand-on experience
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Armin Strom Orbit Midnight Purple
The Orbit, presented in 2022, is one of the defining models within Armin Strom’s catalogue. With the date displayed on demand via the bezel, it offered an original take on a function that has stayed mostly unchanged for decades. Since the launch, the independent Biel-based manufacture has produced several editions, including the inaugural First Edition, […]
Fratello
Don’t Sleep On These Cushions - Hands-On With Three Fears Brunswick Models
Sometimes, as a watch enthusiast, you just connect with a brand. Fears is such a brand for me. I find this revived English indie watch company a prime example of how to establish yourself in a slightly higher segment than most. As much as I appreciate the company from a distance, I had spent little […] Visit Don’t Sleep On These Cushions — Hands-On With Three Fears Brunswick Models to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate (Now In 38mm)
What We Know Today, Blancpain has downsized its ultra-thin Villeret Ultraplate dress watch, with new options in 38mm for greater wearability. The previous 40mm options of the 'Golden Hour' series, which I covered last October, remain, but the 38mm options are going to be much more appealing all around as proper dress watches. The case still remains incredibly thin, especially for a self-winding watch, at 8.35mm, but the 38mm downsizing now offers a short 43.35mm lug-to-lug measurement for small wrists and those who prefer the more traditional proportion of how a dress watch should look on the wrist. Here, four options are presented within these new measurements: three with stainless steel cases, and one in 18K red gold. The dial design continues the visual update introduced last October in the Villeret series, with simplified Roman numerals, the applied "JB" logo at 12 o'clock (standing for Jehan-Jacques Blancpain, who the brand credits as the founder), slim but still lumed leaf hands, and a skeletonized rotor. In stainless steel, there are three dial colors available. Salmon is a first for the Villeret collection, with a copper-hued dial paired with anthracite-coated 18K gold numerals. My favorite of the lineup, the Villeret Ultraplate featuring a warm champagne-hued dial with 18K yellow gold numerals set within a steel case with a green nubuck strap, will be offered as a boutique exclusive. More classic pairings of white gold numerals in a steel case and red gold numeral...
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko’s Evolution 9 Refresh Arrives - with Tapered Quick-Adjust Bracelets
The much-anticipated refresh of Grand Seiko’s Evolution 9 line has arrived with new bracelets for six existing dials, as well as a newcomer and a mid-sized version of the fan favorite Lake Suwa. This brings much improved bracelets to Grand Seiko’s upmarket (and very successful) Evolution 9 line, fueling Seiko’s global ambitions for its flagship luxury brand. Moonlit Lake Suwa (SLGB007) Initial thoughts If the UFA Ushio Diver launched earlier this year proved anything, it’s that Grand Seiko is listening to its customers, and those customers want slim watches, case back power reserve indicators, better bracelets, and a tool-less quick adjust clasp. The Evolution 9 line, launched six years ago in 2020, met half of these requirements, being let down by only the bracelet. With this refresh, the Evolution 9 becomes an even more competitive, and compelling, collection. Grand Seiko’s in-house quick-adjust clasp. Image – Seiko Watch Corporation Unfortunately, the changes also come with a significant movement downgrade for the Spring Drive models, replacing the extended power reserve cal. 9RA2 with the simplified cal. 9RB2. That said, the UFA designation will be seen as a significant upgrade to all but the nerdiest collectors, making it a coup for Grand Seiko as the new movement adds value for the customer while presumably being less expensive to manufacture. Cal, 9RB2. Image – Seiko Watch Corporation But before you run out to buy one of the five-day Spring Drive watch...
Fratello
The Best Summer Watches - Nacho’s Picks From Vaer, Doxa, Omega, And More
Summer is officially here! My colleagues have all been writing in anticipation of the official start of the year’s warmest season, but I have the privilege of being the first to report from within. And things have kicked off to a sweltering start. This week, temperatures are set to reach the mid-30s Celsius here in […] Visit The Best Summer Watches — Nacho’s Picks From Vaer, Doxa, Omega, And More to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Sylvain Pinaud Tourbillon
Independent watchmaker Sylvain Pinaud has introduced the Tourbillon, a watch that looks a lot like the brand’s sophomore Origine, but is in fact entirely different. The apparent similarity conceals an all-new calibre, which features a lively 30-second tourbillon front and centre. Mr Pinaud’s most ambitious project yet will be made in three 10-piece limited editions: one in titanium, and two in platinum. Initial thoughts Sylvain Pinaud is one of the few contemporary independent watchmakers who launched his eponymous brand with a complication before going back to basics with a time-only model. Launched in 2022, the Origine was well-suited to the prevailing taste for well-finished time-only watches. With Origine production in the rearview, Mr Pinaud has moved back in the direction of additional complexity with his first tourbillon. For fans of Sylvain Pinaud — and artisanal watchmaking in general — the well-executed Tourbillon leaves little room for complaint. That said, it’s liable to be criticised for the simple fast that it looks a lot like the Origine. Indeed, the two watches could hardly look more similar — a fact that limits the Tourbillon’s ‘shock and awe’ factor. At launch, I noted that the Tourbillon costs more than double that of the time-only Origine. That’s arguably a big ask relative to the additional complexity of the tourbillon regulator, but the cost basis is probably a moot point given collector appetite for independent watchmaking and the...
Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Announces a Major Refresh for the Evolution 9 Collection
Grand Seiko has announced a major refresh in their Evolution 9 collection across multiple metals and movements, and incorporating enthusiast favorite dial designs. A total of nine new watches have been announced as part of the update, and together they serve as what appears to be a new standard for Grand Seiko’s flagship collection. There’s a lot to chew on here, and depending on what interests you about Grand Seiko (or where you feel they have shortcomings) a number of different aspects of this update might be what draws you in. Everything they’ve announced, though, represents tangible improvement over what came before. First, the news that many enthusiasts will probably zero in on immediately: Grand Seiko’s micro-adjustable clasp now appears to be standard. After introducing it last year in a limited fashion, there were plenty of gripes about backwards compatibility and options for the future. The message here seems to be that the more heavily tapered bracelet with micro-adjustment built into the clasp will be a regular feature across Evolution 9 watches. Importantly, for these releases, that applies to both 37mm and 40mm references. Grand Seiko is also standardizing their premium alloys in steel and titanium in the Evolution 9 collection. Of the new watches introduced this week, the seven in steel are all in Grand Seiko’s Ever-Brilliant Steel alloy, which has a more lustrous shine and shows off Grand Seiko’s finishing more dramatically than standard stee...
Monochrome
Introducing - Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph Limited Edition Silvretta Classic 2026
Every summer, hundreds of classic cars take to the Alpine roads of Austria’s Montafon region for the Silvretta Classic. This rally has become a regular fixture in Union Glashütte‘s calendar too, with the German brand releasing a dedicated limited edition almost every year. The Viro Chronograph Silvretta Classic 2023, with its bicompax layout, was followed […]
Hodinkee
Auctions: French Soccer Legend Zinédine Zidane Talks Watches And Why He's Offering His First Cartier To A Special Charity Sale
Zinédine Zidane is football (soccer) royalty in France. Having played for his home country in the World Cup three times, he led Les Bleus to victory in 1998 and made the final in 2006, winning the Golden Ball as the tournament's best player. Photo credit: Alex Teuscher Before becoming a manager coach at Real Madrid, Zidane, known as 'Zizou', also had a prestigious career in professional soccer as an attacking midfielder at a host of European clubs, including Juventus. Widely regarded as one of the best players in history, he rose to prominence early in his career in the French Ligue 1 at FC Girondins de Bordeaux. And it was in Bordeaux that Zidane bought his first proper watch, a Cartier Pasha. Now that watch will be sold at a charity auction for ELA International as part of the Watches For ELA auction by Christie's on November 9 in Geneva. Zidane has been a supporter of ELA International - the European Leukodystrophies Association - for a quarter century. The non-profit organization is dedicated to defeating leukodystrophies—rare, genetic diseases that destroy the central nervous system. They fund medical research, support affected families, raise public awareness, and advocate for universal newborn screening. With the 2026 World Cup in full swing and on North American soil, we asked Zidane about his passion for watches, his support for ELA International, and why this Cartier has special meaning for the French soccer legend. Zidane's Cartier Pasha.Photo credit: Al...
Time+Tide
ATOWAK explores the next frontier as inspiration for horological exploration with new Mars Age collection
ATOWAK draws inspiration from Mars exploration to develop its Mars Age model series, which features a rotating time display.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces A Smaller, 40mm Polaris Date
What We Know If the current generation of Jaeger-LeCoultre's Polaris didn't quite do it for you, namely in the 42mm case sizes across the board in the Polaris lineup, this new 40mm version of the Polaris Date might just be a more compelling option. The new 40mm steel case is not only smaller in diameter, but actually thinner too, measuring 12.9mm compared to 13.92mm with the 42mm casing. No, it doesn't make for a slim time-and-date watch, but it's still an improvement for the sporty case. The new diameter, paired with an already compact lug profile, means that this version of the Polaris should be quite wearable for an even smaller subset of wrists now. Dial-wise, this 40mm Polaris Date uses the same lacquered fumé blue dial as the 42mm version, with a dramatically gradient sunray-brushed center section surrounded by a snailed minutes track and an outer grained section for the applied markers and date window. The inner bezel, complete with orange accents, is controlled through the second crown at 4 o'clock and can be used to track elapsed time. But while the dial doesn't offer anything new in the way of color, there are actually two small details modified from the 42mm version that I think are major improvements. First is the positioning of the Jaeger-LeCoultre logo, now placed in the center brushed section rather than crammed right underneath the "12" markers in the 42mm version. And thankfully, "Automatique" is now gone from the dial, leaving only "Swiss Made" at the ...
Monochrome
Introducing - The New De Bethune DB25xs Sand Winds
One of the most distinctive indie brands on the scene today, it’s impossible to mistake a De Bethune watch. Some of the signature aesthetic clues, developed by master watchmaker and co-founder Denis Flageollet, are heat-treated titanium components and random guilloché patterns. As a counterweight to the more futuristic and flagship DB28 family, the more classical […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Sinn 104 vs Archimede Pilot 39: Which German Pilot Watch Is Better for Everyday Use?
Explore this hands-on comparison of the Sinn 104 vs Archimede Pilot 39. See which German pilot watch offers better versatility, comfort, design, and daily wear.
Monochrome
First Look - Grand Seiko Updates Classic Evo9 Models with a New Bracelet and Clasp
It is a big day for Grand Seiko, which is releasing no fewer than nine new references in its Evolution 9 collection. Two of them, the 37mm Spring Drive UFA Lake Suwa SLGB015 and the 40mm Spring Drive UFA Lake Suwa SLGB007, are unprecedented configurations that required their own article. Next to these are three […]
Fratello
Built For Long Summer Days: The Unimatic Modello Uno UT1-IPP
Every summer, when I go to southern Europe, I make sure to take a Unimatic diver with me. I am fortunate enough to have bought a few over the past few years, and I always pick one that will be one of my two or three watches that I bring with me. The usual pick […] Visit Built For Long Summer Days: The Unimatic Modello Uno UT1-IPP to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look - Grand Seiko Updates its Classic Evo9 Collection Models with Spring Drive UFA Calibre and a New Bracelet
Just a couple of hours ago, we introduced one of Grand Seiko‘s new models for 2026, the Spring Drive UFA 40mm Lake Suwa SLGB007. And yes, we decided to give this model its own dedicated article, being a new reference in the Evolution 9 collection. However, there is more coming from Japan… Grand Seiko has […]
Monochrome
First Look - Grand Seiko Brings the UFA Calibre and Micro-Adjustment to the Black 40mm Lake Suwa SLGB007
While in an article that will be published in a few on MONOCHROME, explaining the update that concerns the rest of the Evolution 9 collection, there is one model that stands apart for bringing a fresh new look to the range. Indeed, the new reference SLGB007 introduces the classic Lake Suwa texture in an unprecedented […]
Monochrome
First Look - The New 37mm Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Lake Suwa SLGB015
Back in April 2025, as the highlight of Watches and Wonders, Grand Seiko unveiled an important new duo of models for its Evolution 9 collection: the titanium SLGB003 and the platinum SLGB001. A new 37mm case, an unprecedented and appealing new dial texture, finally a micro-adjustment on the clasp and, most importantly, the launch of the new calibre 9RB2, also known […]
Fratello
Grand Seiko Launches Four New References In The Updated Evolution 9 Hi-Beat Collection
Here we are, just a couple of short months after Watches and Wonders 2026, and Grand Seiko is pressing the launch button in a major way. Today, we’ve got live photos of the refreshed Evolution 9 collection, which encompasses five new Spring Drive and four new Hi-Beat models. This is one of the most important […] Visit Grand Seiko Launches Four New References In The Updated Evolution 9 Hi-Beat Collection to read the full article.
Fratello
The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive U.F.A. Models Get Serious Fan-Requested Updates
The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 core collection gets an update with five new Spring Drive references — SLGB007, SLGB009, SLGB011, SLGB013, and SLGB015. They are not limited editions, nor are they wild departures from the collection’s existing visual language. Instead, Grand Seiko refreshes the core Spring Drive side of its flagship Evolution 9 lineup with […] Visit The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive U.F.A. Models Get Serious Fan-Requested Updates to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Relaunches E9 Collection, Expands with Nine New Models
The next evolution of the signature line goes for new, U.F.A.-powered models, fresh dial variations, and novel microadjustment bracelet upgrades.More