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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Interview – Rolf Studer, Co-CEO of Oris, on the Recent Developments of the Brand Monochrome
Oris Oct 25, 2024

Interview – Rolf Studer, Co-CEO of Oris, on the Recent Developments of the Brand

Headquartered in Hölstein, at the northern edge of the Swiss Jura, Oris sits on the outermost boundary of Switzerland’s traditional watchmaking region. This area had a long history of specialising in affordable pin-lever watches. And although the brand had to reinvent itself, this heritage has naturally shaped Oris’s philosophy of “Go your own way”. With […]

Introducing: The Spinnaker Fleuss 40 Automatic Seconde/Seconde/ For Halloween 2024 Fratello
Christopher Ward Desk Diver Oct 25, 2024

Introducing: The Spinnaker Fleuss 40 Automatic Seconde/Seconde/ For Halloween 2024

Romaric André, aka seconde/seconde/, is a busy man these days. I have barely recovered from the Christopher Ward Desk Diver, and now he is back with a collab with Spinnaker. It goes to show that the often snobby watch world is looking for some lighthearted fun. Well, lighthearted fun is what we get today! This […] Visit Introducing: The Spinnaker Fleuss 40 Automatic Seconde/Seconde/ For Halloween 2024 to read the full article.

Carl F. Bucherer’s Retro Worldtimer with Peripheral-Wind Movement SJX Watches
Carl F. Bucherer Oct 25, 2024

Carl F. Bucherer’s Retro Worldtimer with Peripheral-Wind Movement

In a departure from its usual modern designs, Carl F. Bucherer’s latest is the Heritage Worldtimer. Modelled on a typical 1950s world time wristwatch, the Heritage Worldtimer sports two crowns - on at three to set the time, another at nine to adjust the cities disc. The A2020 movement inside, however, is a modern creation. The automatic calibre features a peripheral rotor, an invention that dates to the 1950s but was only perfected in the 21st century. However, the calibre comes with a caveat: it’s not a true world time complication, and instead relies on just a rotating cities disc. Initial thoughts Tried-and-tested vintage-inspired reissues are often easy wins so they are common. While the Heritage Worldtimer might seem like one of those on its face, it stands out on several counts, including the simple fact that vintage-inspired world-time watches are uncommon. The design is also vintage inspired, rather than a remake of a specific watch, so it has a generic 1950s feel rather than looking like a scaled-up version of a vintage watch. And the novel, modern movement is a useful complement to the historical design. Though the watch is looks like a world time, it is not actually a world time complication. In other words, the hour hand does not move in tandem with the cities disc as on an actual world time. Rather it is a time-only watch with a rotating cities disc that does the job of indicating time zones, but it is not sophisticated in terms of mechanics. Starting a...

Sailing with the Yema Yachtingraf Croisiere Meca-Quartz Worn & Wound
Yema Oct 24, 2024

Sailing with the Yema Yachtingraf Croisiere Meca-Quartz

As we begin jockeying for position behind the starting line aboard Escapade, an Ericson 29 sailing yacht, we hear the first warning siren blast and I immediately click in the top pusher. The skeletonized yellow arrow hand begins to tick away the seconds as ‘Cappy’ yells, “Ready to tack?!” Giving the green jib sheet two wraps on the winch with my left hand and taking the red jib sheet in my right, I yell back “Ready!” The boat starts to come over into the wind pushing the jib (the forwardmost sail) into the boat, across its bow, and onto the other side. During this, I allow the red line to slowly let out while beginning to pull in the green slowly, then, once the jib passes the midway point, I release the red all together and begin pulling in the green as fast as I can until the jib is fully under tension and our speed begins to climb. A glance down at the 9 o’clock big-eye register shows that we have three minutes to start, information I relay quickly as we begin to weave our way through the pack. Two minutes now, the call for a gybe, and another turn back towards the line. As our speed begins to build, the bow lunges closer to the start line fighting for a perfect start against the crowded pack of seasoned sailors while making sure not to cross too early. The siren blasts again, the big-eye circular hand hits zero, and we cross over the line in second place under wind at roughly four knots.  While it might seem to be an entirely useless complication for the...

Introducing – The Sophisticated Platinum & Black Enamel Breguet Classique 5177 & Classique 7787 Monochrome
Breguet Classique 5177 & Classique Oct 24, 2024

Introducing – The Sophisticated Platinum & Black Enamel Breguet Classique 5177 & Classique 7787

Breguet‘s Classique collection distils the essence of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s watchmaking spirit. With its pure, refined lines, the Classique is home to a wide variety of models sharing many of Breguet’s ‘unmistakable signs’. Breguet expands the collection with a pair of extremely elegant platinum models with inky black Grand Feu enamel dials. The candidates for this […]

Introducing: Breguet Classique 5177 And 7787 - Now In Platinum With Black Grand Feu Enamel Dials Fratello
Breguet Classique 5177 Oct 24, 2024

Introducing: Breguet Classique 5177 And 7787 - Now In Platinum With Black Grand Feu Enamel Dials

The Breguet Classique line - contrary to what its name suggests - always reminds me of Baroque music. I can hear Scarlatti when I see the coin-edge cases, welded lugs, swirly Breguet numerals, and guilloché or enameled dials. They exude the same regal, exalted, masterful feeling as Mikhail Pletnev interpreting Scarlatti on piano. Today’s release […] Visit Introducing: Breguet Classique 5177 And 7787 - Now In Platinum With Black Grand Feu Enamel Dials to read the full article.

Sign Up For The Breitling Event In The Hague On November 29th Fratello
Breitling Event Oct 24, 2024

Sign Up For The Breitling Event In The Hague On November 29th

Breitling is celebrating its 140th anniversary in 2024, so we thought it would only be right to host a special Breitling × Fratello event in The Hague, Netherlands. Vintage Breitling expert Fred Mandelbaum will be there as a special guest to discuss the brand’s incredible heritage. Breitling × Fratello event Breitling has always been one […] Visit Sign Up For The Breitling Event In The Hague On November 29th to read the full article.

Why I Bought It: Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Quill & Pad
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Oct 24, 2024

Why I Bought It: Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M

After a year of ownership, Saad Chaudhry has taken his Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M to the end of the world, a dinner at a yacht club, and the open road as well as the open sea. The polished bezel has scars from doing battle against train commuters and car doors. The clasp has scraped against his keyboard more times than he cares to admit. However the watch still looks remarkably good. Here he explains why he bought it (and kept it) a year after the purchase and whether he would do it all over again.

Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 30th Anniversary Watches Fratello
Casio n Oct 24, 2024

Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 30th Anniversary Watches

It’s hard to believe that 30 years have passed since the first Lange 1 was introduced. Yet, here we are, and to celebrate this special occasion, A. Lange & Söhne has crafted four new limited-edition versions of the brand’s most famous watch. As we’ll see, Lange is bringing a pair of dial and case materials […] Visit Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 30th Anniversary Watches to read the full article.

Introducing the Alterum Worldtimer, a Minimalist Take on a Notoriously Busy Complication Worn & Wound
Oct 23, 2024

Introducing the Alterum Worldtimer, a Minimalist Take on a Notoriously Busy Complication

You might be familiar with the work of Justin Walters through his work with Marin Instruments, which burst onto the microbrand watch scene back in 2021 with a unique, contemporary spin on the classic skin diver. Justin has just launched a new brand, the Alterum Watch Company, which he’s been teasing to those of us in the industry for nearly as long. It’s great to see the watch finally made public, and to see Justin fully emerge as one of the most interesting watch design minds working today. Between this initial release for Alterum and the ongoing work with Marin, we’re seeing a clear, modern aesthetic evolve right before our eyes. Best of all, these watches are accessible to just about anyone, proving once again that you don’t need to spend a small fortune for thoughtful and interesting design.  The working principle behind the Alterum Worldtimer is one of simplicity, or “cutting away the chaos,” as Justin puts it. We’ve heard and seen this before, of course. Many brands attempt to reach a minimal design, but it’s hard to think of one that starts with a worldtimer, a genre of watch that’s busy almost by definition. But it’s a good test, when you think about it. If the goal of Alterum as a brand is simplicity and clarity, finding success with a worldtimer would seem to bode quite well for future projects. In many ways the Alterum Worldtimer feels familiar, at least in its functionality, but when you really start digging into the details you come to und...

The Best Chronograph Watches for Beginners Under $1,000 Worn & Wound
Omega will have you know Oct 23, 2024

The Best Chronograph Watches for Beginners Under $1,000

When time really counts - whether you’re speeding around a race track, plotting a navigational course, or timing the beats of a patient’s heart - you need a stopwatch. At one point, the function of a stopwatch was completely separate from that of a wristwatch. Enter the chronograph. Adding a stopwatch compilation - that is, a feature beyond telling the time - to a traditional watch was revolutionary when it was invented in the nineteenth century.    Today, they are one of the most popular types of watches amongst enthusiasts for their storied heritage and visual appeal. (As Omega will have you know, they’ve even been to the moon.) But for many enthusiasts, they can feel out of reach - mechanically complex, they require significantly greater purchase and service costs. Luckily, there’s an alternative: quartz. Quartz chronograph movements circumvent those two major shortfalls, allowing for greater reliability and reduced cost. With that, here are some of our favorite affordable chronographs for beginners.    Should you see anything you like, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. When time really counts - whether you’re speeding around a race track, plotting a navigational course, or timing the beats of a patient’s heart - you need a stopwatch. At one point, the function of a stopwatch was completely separate f...

Introducing: The Alterum Worldtimer With A Bold, Flat, And Functional Design Approach Fratello
Oct 23, 2024

Introducing: The Alterum Worldtimer With A Bold, Flat, And Functional Design Approach

Starting a watch brand from scratch is quite a risky venture. First, you invest a lot of time in developing a design. Then, you need to find other parties who want to help you realize what you had in mind. Finally, you’re dependent on whether people actually want to buy what you created. Because of […] Visit Introducing: The Alterum Worldtimer With A Bold, Flat, And Functional Design Approach to read the full article.

Straum Introduces Three Captivating Jan Mayen Basalt Limited Editions Fratello
Oct 23, 2024

Straum Introduces Three Captivating Jan Mayen Basalt Limited Editions

Whenever the Norwegian brand Straum unveils something new, we are all ears at Fratello. Most of you will know we love the brand and collaborated on the Fratello × Straum Jan Mayen Limited Edition. In a new adventure, brand founders Lasse Roxrud Farstad and Øystein Helle Husby created three special new dials for the much-praised […] Visit Straum Introduces Three Captivating Jan Mayen Basalt Limited Editions to read the full article.

Editorial: Memorable Moments at IAMWATCH SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 2523 world time Oct 23, 2024

Editorial: Memorable Moments at IAMWATCH

The first large scale watch fair I attended as Tempus in Singapore in 2004. A teenager then, I was fairly new to watches and found everything endlessly interesting. History never repeats but it rhymes, as the saying goes. Iamwatch just concluded in Singapore. In many ways it was similar to Tempus: also staged by local retailer The Hour Glass, a watch fair of sizeable scale, but unlike the 2004 event, Iamwatch was largely focused on independent watchmakers. Most crucially, it was also casual – the prescribed attire was Hawaiian shirt – which allowed for more personal interactions with industry personalities. As one of the largest retailers in the world, The Hour Glass has the pull to round up watch enthusiasts, and a great number turned up for Iamwatch, ranging from mega-collectors to royalty. Naturally, the watches spotted were diverse and often incredible. Many multi-million-dollar watches were circulating within the event, including famous examples that sold for record prices at auction, including the Patek Philippe ref. 2523 world time with a blue enamel dial and “Gobbi” signature. And even the Patek Philippe Cubitus was spotted on several wrists, the day after its launch in Munich. But 20 years on after Tempus, the enjoyment, significance, and enduring memories of an event like Iamwatch – for me personally – is no longer the watches, but the people. It was the moments, often during downtime or after the doors closed, when I got to converse with watchmakers ...

Hands-On With The Handsome Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Fratello
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Oct 23, 2024

Hands-On With The Handsome Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT was one of the most commercially interesting releases of this year’s Watches and Wonders. Unlike most of the exotic Haute Horlogerie releases at the fair, this was a watch we might actually go out and buy. At the same time, it was such a long-awaited and aesthetically predictable watch […] Visit Hands-On With The Handsome Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT to read the full article.

Nicholas Biebuyck, Heritage Director of TAG Heuer, believes “consumer interest is improving in quartz” Time+Tide
TAG Heuer believes “consumer interest Oct 23, 2024

Nicholas Biebuyck, Heritage Director of TAG Heuer, believes “consumer interest is improving in quartz”

If interesting design now trumps mechanical innovation in watchmaking, quartz technology like TAG Heuer's Solargraph has an important edge, Biebuyck explains.The post Nicholas Biebuyck, Heritage Director of TAG Heuer, believes “consumer interest is improving in quartz” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Breguet Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367 SJX Watches
Breguet Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367 Breguet’s Oct 23, 2024

Up Close: Breguet Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367

Breguet’s ultra-thin tourbillon has been in its catalogue for some years now, but it remains one of the brand’s most sophisticated tourbillon models. The Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367 is just 7.45 mm high, making it one of the thinnest self-winding tourbillon watches on the market, a feat made possible thanks to clever peripheral winding. Though its movement is the brand’s latest tourbillon calibre, the 5367 is presented in classic Breguet style – with the enamel dial here or as the 5365 with a guilloche dial – and retains the quintessential Breguet elegance. Initial thoughts Unlike Breguet’s flagship tourbillon model, the massive Double Tourbillon 5345, the 5367 is slim, elegant, and feels like a classical Breguet. In terms of proportions the 5367 is comparable to the 7637 minute repeater, but the tourbillon is thinner and importantly, boasts a more modern movement. The enamel dial is available in traditional white or contemporary blue While the 7637 repeater is powered by a movement that has its roots in the 1980s, the 5367 contains the cal. 581, which is instantly recognisable as a recent construction. The most obvious giveaway is the automatic rotor camouflaged on the periphery, while the tourbillon contains a silicon escapement. The modernity of the construction means the cal. 581 lacks the old-school charm of Breguet’s earlier tourbillon movements, but the sophistication of the cal. 581 is undeniable. Not only is it exceptionally thin, it manages an impre...

The Sternglas Merion Diver Is An Affordable Alternative With Innovative Touches Fratello
Oct 22, 2024

The Sternglas Merion Diver Is An Affordable Alternative With Innovative Touches

Sternglas has come a long way since its first watch debuted in 2016. The earliest models were straightforward Bauhaus-styled watches. While this design still governs the brand’s offerings, straightforward dress watches no longer dominate the catalog. Today’s Merion diver is a good example of how Sternglas has expanded. When I recall my formative collecting years, […] Visit The Sternglas Merion Diver Is An Affordable Alternative With Innovative Touches to read the full article.

Inside the 2024 Overland Expo Worn & Wound
Rado Oct 22, 2024

Inside the 2024 Overland Expo

The Overland Expo was held in Loveland, Colorado this past August 23 to 25, 2024. Founded in 2009 by Roseann and Jonathan Hanson, the Expo celebrates its fifteenth anniversary this year. What began as a trade show has grown into an internationally recognized event with four locations throughout the United States: Redmond, OR; Flagstaff, AZ; Loveland, CO; and Arrington, VA. The Overland Expo is described as the “world’s premier event series for do-it-yourself adventure travel enthusiasts.” Attendance at the Mountain West venue seemed to verify that claim – over eighteen thousand participants from forty-nine states flocked to Colorado during the Expo weekend to learn from experienced instructors and shop for gear. Attendees could choose from a list of 250 classes, with themes ranging from legal advice for content creators to winter survival tips in extreme backcountry conditions. An impressive list of over 300 exhibitors with pop-up booths covered every inch of green lawn at the outdoor venue. To passersby on the interstate, the Expo probably looked like the mother of all farmer’s markets… if farmer’s markets catered to the needs of suped-up overlanding rigs. Photo by Meg Tocci Having grown up in Colorado, I’ve always loved the outdoors. However, my interest in exploring and connecting with nature has grown throughout my twenties and is something I’m continually prioritizing for myself. My recent purchase of a Bronco Sport this summer encouraged me to dip m...

Fratello On Air: Back From New York - An Empire State Of Mind Fratello
Oct 22, 2024

Fratello On Air: Back From New York - An Empire State Of Mind

We’re back with another episode of Fratello On Air. Balazs has just stepped off a plane from New York and is ready to record. In this episode, we kick off with a healthy dose of banter, touch on some news, and review the two watch shows that just concluded. Watch content starts after roughly 25 […] Visit Fratello On Air: Back From New York - An Empire State Of Mind to read the full article.

Introducing – Fourteen Years in the Making, this is the New and Sporty Zeitwinkel 240° Collection Monochrome
Oct 21, 2024

Introducing – Fourteen Years in the Making, this is the New and Sporty Zeitwinkel 240° Collection

It was during Baselworld 2010 when Zeitwinkel co-founder Ivica ‘Maks’ Maksimovic suggested a concept for a sports watch to his fellow co-founders, Albert Edelmann and Peter Nikolaus. The two didn’t gravitate to the idea right away, but over time, and no doubt many discussions later, the idea was refined and distilled into something that could […]

Tissot PRX Forged Carbon Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot Oct 21, 2024

Tissot PRX Forged Carbon Review

The Tissot PRX is a well-understood concept at this point, and it’s a watch that’s been widely embraced for good reason. Tissot tapped into something powerful when it released the PRX in 2021, and the model has proven to be remarkably versatile in the intervening years. It has remained largely accessible along the way, which is worth applauding. The crux of the PRX’s success boils down to its thoughtful execution, making it more than an attempt to leverage a passing trend. A variety of configurations have fleshed out the concept further, perhaps none moreso than this example that features a case rendered in forged carbon.  It’s worth pausing to appreciate the fact that ‘exotic’ materials such as forged carbon have made their way into the sub-$1,000 range of watches. Once regarded as reserved for the world of haute horlogerie, forged carbon composite materials can now be produced in a way that allows for such broad applications. It’s been embraced in the small, independent-brand space by the likes of Formex and Norqain (see a list of 12 right here) and the net result is more enthusiasts getting a chance to own watches made of the stuff. But it’s not just for small brands anymore. Tissot has put it to good use in this new PRX in what feels like a very organic pairing.  The Tissot PRX is an integrated-bracelet sport watch that was released at the height of that genre's trend. It sat alongside a myriad of other watches looking to capitalize on the trend,...

Hands-On: the Trafford Touring GMT Worn & Wound
Oct 21, 2024

Hands-On: the Trafford Touring GMT

I am no stranger to the road, often finding myself lost on winding backcountry roads, grabbing cocktails in random local bars, and hunting for the hidden gems that make travel great. It can be easy to get lost in these adventures, jumping over time zones with an unwillingness to turn back towards my standard everyday life. That is where, annoyingly, a watch becomes more than just a watch. It becomes the rope tied to schedules and obligations that unobtrusively pulls you back to reality through the whirring of a rotor. While I certainly can not claim to be the modern American artist for whom this watch was designed, I have seen its inspiration scattered throughout random roads lost to different eras still holding the memories of its previous travelers. So, it seemed only fitting that part of my time spent with the new Trafford Touring GMT would occur on a spur-of-the-moment road trip down to West Virginia. Trafford is a brand I am very familiar with having been hooked on Nathan’s designs since he first shared a single teaser image of the Crossroads (his previous, rectangular model) in a watch Facebook group. Of course, I backed the Kickstarter grabbing myself a cabaret dial version, and then would eventually go on to get to know Nathan more during our collaboration on a certain “Wonderful” video I am sure many of you have seen by now. It was at this time that Nathan shared more teasers with me, this time of a round case with a similarly bold design language featuring ...

Space Watches: Edgar Mitchell’s Rolex GMT-Master 1675 And Dave Scott’s Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 It’s Oct 21, 2024

Space Watches: Edgar Mitchell’s Rolex GMT-Master 1675 And Dave Scott’s Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11

It’s not common for a watch of great rarity related to the Space Race of the Apollo Era to appear in a watch or space auction. Even more uncommon is finding several distinctive examples of rare watches from two premier Swiss brands related to mankind’s voyage to the Moon. Within RR Auction’s current Space Exploration […] Visit Space Watches: Edgar Mitchell’s Rolex GMT-Master 1675 And Dave Scott’s Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Latest Grand Seiko European Limited Editions Fratello
Grand Seiko European Limited Editions Last Oct 21, 2024

Hands-On With The Latest Grand Seiko European Limited Editions

Last week, I met with the Grand Seiko UK team at Japan House in South Kensington, London. The brand occupied a space at the cultural center and brought the latest European Limited Editions. The lights were bright, and the antireflective crystals worked overtime, but we managed a few decent shots. Earlier this month, we previewed […] Visit Hands-On With The Latest Grand Seiko European Limited Editions to read the full article.