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Results for AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants)

3,466 articles · 32 videos found · page 6 of 117

Business News: Bulgari and Six Independents Join Watches & Wonders 2025 SJX Watches
Christiaan van der Klaauw Kross Studio Sep 17, 2024

Business News: Bulgari and Six Independents Join Watches & Wonders 2025

Continuing the evolution and growth of Watches & Wonders Geneva (WWG), the event will see new additions next year, with Bulgari coming on board as a major exhibitor, along with a half dozen independent brands, including Christiaan van der Klaauw, Kross Studio, and HYT. Bulgari will then become the second major jewellery to show at the event, after Cartier, which historically dominated the Geneva fair when it was still known as Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH). WWG was essentially a renamed SIHH after the demise of Baselworld, and Cartier retained its most-favoured status at the event even after the transition to WWG in 2020. As WWG has evolved, however, the balance of power has shifted, as reflected by the recent additions to the event’s governing board. While Cartier and its parent Richemont once had half the seats on the board, the pair now account for just two seats on the expanded, seven-member board, which now includes LVMH, the French luxury group that owns Bulgari. The last SIHH ever that took place in 2019 Indies and youth The addition of six more independent brands to WWG add to its diversity, with a majority of the exhibitors now being small and tiny independent brands. But as was the case with Baselworld before, the independent brands participating are a mixed bad of the good, the bad, and the ugly, which is one reason why some established independent brands are doing their own thing outside the fair – and which ironically was the reason SIH...

Micromilspec Launches The New Milgraph GMT Chronograph At Geneva Watch Days Fratello
Aug 29, 2024

Micromilspec Launches The New Milgraph GMT Chronograph At Geneva Watch Days

Making its Geneva Watch Days debut, Norwegian independent brand Micromilspec has announced a new watch. Launched as a civilian model, the Milgraph is a serious military-inspired chronograph that packs a lot of functionality onto the wrist. It provides a column-wheel-operated chronograph movement with a GMT function in a blasted titanium case. At first glance, there’s […] Visit Micromilspec Launches The New Milgraph GMT Chronograph At Geneva Watch Days to read the full article.

Ace Jewelers and Frederique Constant Team Up for a Limited Edition Highlife Worldtimer Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant Team Up Jan 1, 2024

Ace Jewelers and Frederique Constant Team Up for a Limited Edition Highlife Worldtimer

Ace Jewelers, based in Amsterdam, has carved out a reputation for themselves as creators of some of the best limited edition collaborations between watch brands and retail partners. Yes, this is a category that has been growing steadily over the years, but it’s worth pointing at that Ace has been at it for a long time, well before the watch market reached the state of collab hysteria that we currently find ourselves in. Many collectors are probably aware of their regular limited releases with Nomos (they’ve done six, and they always sell out very quickly) but they’ve expanded their portfolio this year, introducing collaborations with Elka and Nivada. Their most recent LE introduces another new brand into the fold, Frederique Constant, with a version of their Highlife Worldtimer that draws on aesthetic cues established in earlier Ace releases.  The Highlife Worldtimer remains one of the more compelling Frederique Constant references. The Highlife platform feels refreshingly contemporary (even though it’s based on 1970s design cues) compared to what we often think of when we picture a Frederique Constant in the mind’s eye. If your impression of the brand is that of a maker of watches in a more classical, dressier, and simply old-fashioned style, than the Highlife, a sleek integrated bracelet sports watch, is almost transgressive. And it’s proven to be a worthy canvas for Frederique Constant’s not-so-secret weapon: affordable complications. The Worldtimer, of c...

INTRODUCING: The Cyrus Klepcys DICE Racing is a stimulating blast of organised chaos Time+Tide
Oct 18, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Cyrus Klepcys DICE Racing is a stimulating blast of organised chaos

Racing watches are some of the most desirable and historically significant models that have ever been released. While tool watches meant for the military and divers have mostly lost their original purpose, the exhilarating themes and overt extravagance of a racing chronograph is still as relevant to motorsport today as it was in the 1960s. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Cyrus Klepcys DICE Racing is a stimulating blast of organised chaos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Pharrell’s watch collection is as hot as a spacecraft upon re-entry Time+Tide
Ming ly done it all Jun 25, 2022

Pharrell’s watch collection is as hot as a spacecraft upon re-entry

Producer/musician/songwriter/fashion mogul-hyphenate Pharrell Williams has seemingly done it all. Since his early days producing and writing songs for the likes of Mystikal, Pusha T, and Jay-Z as half of The Neptunes, he’s a guy that never stops. Besides two solo albums and five with his group N.E.R.D., just look at this small slice of the … ContinuedThe post Pharrell’s watch collection is as hot as a spacecraft upon re-entry appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Winners - 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem Nov 5, 2021

Winners - 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève

The award ceremony of 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) just kicked off the biggest week in Geneva’s horological calendar. Widely regarded as the all-encompassing awards of watchmaking, the GPHG is made up of fourteen prizes for individual categories, plus a special prize for the watch of there year. And here are the year’s winners. Aiguille d’Or Grand Recognised for its aesthetic and technical qualities – it is the thinnest perpetual calendar wristwatch ever – the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar took home the top prize of the event. Audacity The winner certainly lives up to the name of the prize. The Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem is over the top but finely decorated in an artisanal manner, with an impressive movement that combines an automaton and minute repeater. Innovation Deserving of its prize, the Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer is one of the most technically impressive watches of 2021. And that’s because it’s kitted out with a double-wheel escapement powered by twin going trains, each equipped with a remontoir d’egalité constant force mechanism. Men’s Watch Grand Seiko’s Elegance SLGH005 “White Birch” is equipped with an impressive, latest-generation calibre, the cal. 9SA5. It was a worthy winner, though it has to be said that the competition was not especially strong this year. Launched last year for Grand Seiko’s 60th anniversary, the cal. 9SA5 is the brand’s highest-end mechanical movement ...

Our Predictions For The Aiguille d’Or (Grand Prize) Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Will It Be A Watch Or A Clock? Quill & Pad
Nov 3, 2021

Our Predictions For The Aiguille d’Or (Grand Prize) Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Will It Be A Watch Or A Clock?

The GPHG foundation describes the Aiguille d’Or as “. . . rewarding the best overall watch among all the categories (best in show), also deemed the most representative of the watch industry as a whole. It is the most prestigious award.” In this last GPHG prediction discussion of the 2021 edition, our panel reveals who we think might win the 2021 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève's big prize.

Our Predictions In The Diver’s Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Some Underwater Consensus Quill & Pad
Oct 22, 2021

Our Predictions In The Diver’s Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Some Underwater Consensus

In the 2021 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève Diver's category we see a mix of tool watches that one might actually choose to use underwater as a dive computer backup and “desk divers” that will see their toughest duty during a light rain shower on the way to the office. In this round table, our panelists pick their choices as the best dive watch of 2021.

Bulgari’s pivot to the Roma at Geneva Watch Days reveals they’re not just the Finissimo Show Time+Tide
Bulgari s pivot Aug 31, 2021

Bulgari’s pivot to the Roma at Geneva Watch Days reveals they’re not just the Finissimo Show

Question: has any watch brand evolved as much as Bulgari in the last decade? In 2011, the company’s watchmaking design division was transplanted from Rome to Neuchâtel in Switzerland in a sign of the brand’s horological intent. It’s proved to be wildly fruitful, too, as Italian style has merged with Swiss precision in a succession … ContinuedThe post Bulgari’s pivot to the Roma at Geneva Watch Days reveals they’re not just the Finissimo Show appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Winners at 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève SJX Watches
Piaget  Altiplano Ultimate Concept Nov 13, 2020

Highlights: Winners at 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève

Having just taken place in Geneva and broadcast live, the 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) ceremony anointed most of the year’s best watches. Whittled down from a large selection to candidates that were evaluated by an all-Swiss jury instead of the usual cosmopolitan mix due to travel restrictions, eighteen watches (and one watchmaker) received prizes. A handful of them are worth a look as worthy winners – albeit winning by default in some of the less competitive categories – as well as a notable watch that did not win but should have. Awarded to the best watch of the contest, the Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix, went to the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept. The thinnest mechanical watch on the market, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept (AUC) is the culmination of all the progress in ultra-thin watchmaking over the last several decades. At an unreal 2 mm high, the AUC pushes engineering to the cutting edge, albeit at an extremely high price. While there were other watches in the competition that could reasonably be candidates for the Aiguille d’Or, the AUC has earned it. The Piaget AUC Complications and revelations Another prestigious award is the Horological Revelation Prize, which is awarded at the discretion of the jury to watch made by a nascent brand. It went to the Petermann Bédat 1967, unquestionably one of the highlights of independent watchmaking this year. Well deserving of the prize, the 1967 is simply marvellous (we explain why here). Thoug...

Mass gains! Hublot are peak 2020 as they release a mechanical desk clock FOUR TIMES the size of the Meca-10 model Time+Tide
Massena Lab MB&F; Oct 22, 2020

Mass gains! Hublot are peak 2020 as they release a mechanical desk clock FOUR TIMES the size of the Meca-10 model

In Scandinavia we have a traditional saying: all good things come in threes. And, boy, does this apply to clocks in 2020. First, the Hodinkee table clock that broke the internet and brutally maimed the comments section, then the futuristic T-Rex from Massena LAB, MB&F; and L’Epée. And here comes lucky number three – the … ContinuedThe post Mass gains! Hublot are peak 2020 as they release a mechanical desk clock FOUR TIMES the size of the Meca-10 model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sex toys, murder victims and cocaine: the dark side of the Apple Watch Time+Tide
Sep 11, 2020

Sex toys, murder victims and cocaine: the dark side of the Apple Watch

Bubble wrap was originally devised as a form of three-dimensional wallpaper. The modern treadmill was invented to harness the muscle power of idle prisoners in order to mill grain. Frisbees were created by a Connecticut pie company as a dish for their wares. Fascinating facts aside, the point here is that many things are designed … ContinuedThe post Sex toys, murder victims and cocaine: the dark side of the Apple Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

On Scene: Geneva Watch Days 2020 SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux MB&F; Maurice Lacroix Louis Aug 31, 2020

On Scene: Geneva Watch Days 2020

Twenty-twenty will remain as a most peculiar year for the world as well as for trade fairs. Having taken place August 26-29,Geneva Watch Days (GWD) might be the only physical show the watch industry will see this year, at least in Europe. How did it fare? Was it a success for the brands, media, and public? Here is an overview of the atmosphere. After the demise of Baselworld and the rescheduling of Watches & Wonders to Shanghai (will it really happen?), GWD was a ray of light in the dark times the watch community was experiencing. First mooted by Jean-Christophe Babin, chief executive of Bulgari, and a few other watch brands, GWD quickly grew as many brands hopped on the bandwagon, hoping to salvage what already looked like an annus horribilis. “Phygital” is the new normal More than 20 brands were showing during the four days of GWD, which was a series of exhibitions and events at venues across Geneva, rather than being concentrated in a large hall as the traditional fairs are. Most brands were part of GWD itself – Artya, Breitling, Bulgari, Bovet, De Bethune, Czapek, Ferdinand Berthoud, H.Moser & Cie., Gerald Genta, Girard-Perregaux, MB&F;, Maurice Lacroix, Louis Moinet, Ulysse Nardin, and Urwerk. But the official GWD exhibitors were accompanied by an array of independent brands more than happy to share a common audience. Carl F. Bucherer tagged along by presenting its novelties at the Bucherer store in Geneva, while Le Salon des Horlogers, a small, cosy store i...

Geneva Watch Days 2020 Is On: Good News Or *Covid-19 Cough* Desperate, Short-Sighted, Money Grab? Quill & Pad
Mar 3, 2020

Geneva Watch Days 2020 Is On: Good News Or *Covid-19 Cough* Desperate, Short-Sighted, Money Grab?

Ian Skellern's feelings regarding the rapid series of announcements of watch events like the cancellation of Watches & Wonders and Baselworld as well as the full-steam-ahead project Geneva Watch Days have been equally quickly undulating: from initially being enthusiastically for, Ian ended feeling against Geneva Watch Days. Why put anyone’s health at risk, especially with perhaps little in return but a few photos and a persistent cough? But it is a tough call.

Our Predictions In The Men’s Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): A Split Decision Quill & Pad
Sep 20, 2019

Our Predictions In The Men’s Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): A Split Decision

The GPHG foundation describes the Men’s category for watches entered into the 2019 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève as containing indications for only hours, minutes, seconds, simple date, power reserve, and classic moon phase. Here our panelists select their favorites from the six shortlisted watches, and the reactions are quite mixed.

Hublot’s Sang Bleu II, as explained by the man who designed it Time+Tide
Hublot s Sang Bleu II Jul 19, 2019

Hublot’s Sang Bleu II, as explained by the man who designed it

When it comes to creative collaborations, few brands have the level of panache or skill that Hublot does. They have a few on the burner at the moment: their Orlinski watches and the one we’re looking at today – the Sang Bleu.  To be a little more specific, we’re looking at the Hublot Sang Bleu … ContinuedThe post Hublot’s Sang Bleu II, as explained by the man who designed it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Quartz, but not as you know it - the Grand Seiko SBGN007 GMT Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGN007 GMT Quartz isn’t Oct 23, 2018

HANDS-ON: Quartz, but not as you know it - the Grand Seiko SBGN007 GMT

Quartz isn’t something that comes across my desk too often, so you know when it does that it’s something special - and this Grand Seiko is definitely something special. There’s a handful of truly exceptional, iconic quartz movements out there, and the 9F is amongst the finest. And now, with the addition of a GMT, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Quartz, but not as you know it – the Grand Seiko SBGN007 GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Does The Bvlgari Aluminium Nail Neo-Futurism? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
Bvlgari Aluminium Nail Neo-Futurism? Hands-On Aug 26, 2026

Does The Bvlgari Aluminium Nail Neo-Futurism? (Hands-On)

Bvlgari’s Aluminium collection is one of their most disruptive collections, but does the cult classic still hold up? Let’s find out! What We Love: Highly wearable Unconventional, fun design Accessible relative to the catalogue What We Don’t: Underdeveloped movement Round lugs get caught under sleeves Can a cult classic become a flagship piece? Overall Rating: 7.5/10 Value for Money: 7/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality:7/10 ‘Accessibility’ and ‘Bvlgari’ aren’t two terms that usually go hand-in-hand. This is mostly by design; the Italo-Swiss brand is mostly known for its extreme luxuries, combining the very best of the jewellery and watchmaking industries to do so. This often leads to designs of equally high ambition and extravagance, such as the Octo Finissimo’s record-breaking history or the inspired silhouette of its Diva’s Dream collection. But for as ostentatious as Bvlgari’s average price tag can be, the brand also offers its signature disruption at a relatively accessible price point. Through the Bvlgari Aluminium, a collection assembled from a medley of design cues from watches past, the brand proposes a sporty timepiece that is neither built nor designed like anything else. Not only does the line look like it was frozen in time, but its combination of aluminium and rubber is an experiment in materials unlike anything else on the market. But does the watch’s uniqueness still stand on its own, even when surrounded by a sea of h...

Announcements: Geneva Watch Days 2026 Will Take Place September 2-6 Hodinkee
Girard-Perregaux Aug 24, 2026

Announcements: Geneva Watch Days 2026 Will Take Place September 2-6

It's hard to believe that Geneva Watch Days, a watch fair that began in 2020 with fewer than 20 participating brands, now welcomes 68 watchmakers for its seventh edition. Taking place September 2-6, Geneva Watch Days has grown into one of the year's most jam-packed watch events, with brand presentations and launches spread across the city. Unlike traditional watch fairs like Watches and Watchers, Geneva Watch Days is decentralized, meaning that brands will present their latest creations at individual showrooms and locations across the city, rather than at one shared venue. At the center of the action is the Rotonde du Mont-Blanc, along the shores of Lake Geneva, where the event's Main Pavilion and Blue Box exhibition space will serve as central gathering points. The Pavilion will host discussions on the broader watch industry, while the Blue Box will showcase a curated selection of watches from different maisons in a themed exhibition. Five of the event's eight founding brands (Breitling, Bulgari, De Bethune, Girard-Perregaux, and MB&F;) will participate this year. They'll be joined by a diverse lineup of watchmakers, from major players like Zenith to independents such as Greubel Forsey, Ming, and Laurent Ferrier, many of whom will present new launches. On Thursday, there will also be a charity auction held by Phillips in association with Bacs & Russo. The sale's profits will help provide scholarships for students of Switzerland's oldest watchmaking school, École d'Horloge...

Five Rolex References That Identify You As An Enthusiast Fratello
Rolex References Aug 5, 2026

Five Rolex References That Identify You As An Enthusiast

Anyone can point at a modern Submariner and know it’s a Rolex. Recognizing that the watch takes no real knowledge of the brand, Rolex has spent decades making sure of that. But there’s a different, quieter tier of Rolex ownership that has nothing to do with what’s easiest to identify from across the room. It’s […] Visit Five Rolex References That Identify You As An Enthusiast to read the full article.

Introducing - The Chronoswiss’ Skeleton Chronograph Returns as the Opus Dakar Sundown Monochrome
Chronoswiss Skeleton Chronograph Returns Jul 3, 2026

Introducing - The Chronoswiss’ Skeleton Chronograph Returns as the Opus Dakar Sundown

The Opus, one of the defining collections in the modern Chronoswiss catalogue, was originally introduced in 1995 as the world’s first serially produced skeletonised automatic chronograph. It remains a foundational part of the brand’s identity, continuing to evolve through colour, materials and finishing. Following last year’s titanium Opus Dakar with its desert-inspired palette, Chronoswiss now […]

Business News: Breitling's House Of Brands Joins Watches And Wonders For 2027 As Dates Unveiled Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Jun 23, 2026

Business News: Breitling's House Of Brands Joins Watches And Wonders For 2027 As Dates Unveiled

One of the largest watch group holdouts is heading to Watches and Wonders in 2027 as Breitling's House of Brands will join the world's premier luxury watch fair for the first time. Scheduled to take place April 5 to 11 in Geneva at Palexpo, with supplementary programs and exhibitions including the In The City events that debuted at the most recent edition, brands including Breitling, Gallet, Universal Genève and Italy's Damiani will exhibit alongside founding partners Rolex, Patek Philippe and Richemont brands, among others, according to a statement from the non-profit Watches and Wonders Foundation. The inclusion of the House of Brands group marks a significant addition for Watches and Wonders, underscoring its position as the most important annual gathering of Swiss and international luxury watchmakers, retailers, media, and the public each spring. The announcement follows news that Basel will return to the watch fair schedule with a new watch and jewelry show called Basilia that will follow during the same month, and leaves Swatch Group as the only major Swiss watchmaking conglomerate not participating in Watches and Wonders.  "The arrival of these new names represents an important milestone in the evolution of Watches and Wonders Geneva, and reflects the desire of major watchmaking Maisons to unite around a shared vision," Watches and Wonders organizers said in a prepared statement.  A record 65 brands participated in the event in 2026, including, for the first time...

Does The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Up/Down Deserve Its Icon Status? (Review) WatchAdvice
A. Lange & Sohne May 29, 2026

Does The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Up/Down Deserve Its Icon Status? (Review)

A pink gold Datograph Up/Down with serious chronograph engineering, rich contrast, and the kind of finishing only Lange can deliver. What We Love: Beautifully executed 18-carat pink gold case is as elegant as it comes! One of modern watchmaking’s great chronograph movements, showcased through a rich black and pink gold dial execution. Wears far better than the dimensions suggest. What We Don’t: Case thickness may be too large for some by modern standards. Dial layout may feel slightly imbalanced with integration of power-reserve indicator Traditional 2.5Hz beat rate may not appeal to those who prefer higher-frequency chronograph movements. Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 There are very few brands in the world of watchmaking that can do what A. Lange & Söhne is capable of. The brand’s chronographs are also some of the most respected timepieces in the industry, carrying heritage, incredible craftsmanship, and painstaking assembly methods that place their movements among the best in the world. Fortunately for me, I had the chance to get up close and go hands-on with one of the brand’s signature chronographs: the Datograph Up/Down. One of the original 1999 A. Lange & Söhne Datograph models (Ref. 403.035) The Datograph was first introduced in 1999, and it quickly became one of the benchmark chronographs of modern watchmaking. Why did it rise to such a status so quickly? It was because of the model’s...

Highlights: Notable Independents at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
F.P. Journe May 27, 2026

Highlights: Notable Independents at Phillips Hong Kong

Phillips’ spring auction season wraps up with The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII on May 30 – 31. As is now the norm, independent watchmakers have carved out a significant section of the catalogue including the usual suspects from F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour, as well as rare showings from under-the-radar makers like Oscillon and Yosuke Sekiguchi. Lot 878 – Oscillon L’instant de Vérité Despite how hot the indie segment has become, Oscillon has largely stayed under the radar, perhaps due to its intensely cerebral nature, or because the brand only produces about five watches per year. The duo behind the brand, Dominique Buser and Cyrano Devanthey, are collectors of pre-computerised watchmaking machines. Their collection is so extensive that they can produce all movement parts – save for the jewels and shock protection – under their own roof using these machines. Even putting this context aside, the watches themselves are still mechanically interesting. The most striking detail is the bowtie-shaped balance, which is harder to poise and less aerodynamic than a conventional annular balance, but looks much cooler. L’instant de Vérité uses an unusual tensator constant-force spring. To explain this, consider a tape measure. The force required to pull more length from a tape measure doesn’t noticeably increase regardless of the length already paid out. Now imagine hooking the end of the tape to a pulley, so that turning the pulley (winding) pulls tape out, and ...