2,779 articles · 236 videos found · page 6 of 101
Deployant
The watch has a very useful complication. It is equipped with a motion sensor. When the watch is still for 35 mins, the hands stop. And will revert to the correct time after motion is detected. New this year, in grade 5 titanium. Two versions 40mm (CHF 12,400 set w 2 rows of diamonds) andRead More
Revolution
Revolution
Revolution
Ever since the resurrection of Blancpain by Biver and Piguet in the 1980’s, the moon has played an important part in the history of the brand. Their first full calendar model with moon phase was a classical beauty, whose legacy lives on until today. The same can be said for the carrousel (karrussel) that Blancpain […]
Worn & Wound
Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo line has become synonymous with its technical prowess and record-breaking, ultra-thin designs (and for good reason). The collection has notched a whopping ten world records in just over a decade. However, we’ve also seen a softer side to the Octo through Bulgari’s more artistic interpretations of the iconic design. The most well-known are likely the sketch editions. As the name suggests, these models celebrate the original sketches of the design rendered by the brand’s Product Creation Executive Director, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani. Yet, these more playful and aesthetic-focused editions have also been molded through collaborations with a wide array of co-creators from architects like Kazuyo Sejima and Tadao Ando to conductors and composers like Lorenzo Viotti. Among the Bulgari Octo mashups, the most striking have come from artists themselves. One of the earliest editions came back in 2015 with the Chinese artist Simon Ma. His collection of 13 piece unique watches explored the horse motif of the Chinese zodiac using traditional Chinese calligraphy techniques handpainted on the dial. Three years later, Bulgari enlisted the Japanese painter Hiroshi Senju to interpret a watch with his signature exploration of waterfalls. The resulting design employed mother of pearl on the dial to create a waterfall effect. Next, the Roman Maison took a more contemporary approach, tapping the Japanese artist Tatsuo Miyajima. This collaboration took a le...
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SJX Watches
Industry price data provider EveryWatch has released its annual report on the state of the secondary market for luxury watches. The data confirms what many collectors already sense - the pre-owned watch market is booming, but the gains are concentrated in a small number of brands and references that are capturing the lion’s share of value, while the rest are left fighting over the scraps. Francis Ford Coppola’s personal F.P. Journe FFC prototype (left) sold for US$10.8 million, while his Chronomètre à Résonance sold for US$584,000 in December 2025. Image – Phillips Initial thoughts There are many reasons to be skeptical about much of the information gathered by industry data providers. For one thing, data gathered from dealers, internet listings, and auctions naturally misses the sizable proportion of transactions that happens offline. For another, the asking price is often easier to find than the clearing price, which tends to be lower. That’s not to say the data is unusable. On the contrary, the time series data gathered by data providers like WatchCharts can provide validation (or not) for anecdotal evidence and help collectors and dealers make more rational point-in-time decisions - if there is such a thing as a ‘rational’ watch purchase. What’s interesting is not necessarily that the market is estimated to be about US$20 billion in size, or that it’s growing at a rate in excess of 30% according to EveryWatch. What is more interesting is how the ...
Hodinkee
When F.P. Journe unveiled his Octa Sports line of watches back in 2011, we (the royal watch collecting "we") could simply not believe how light they were. After all, the F.P. Journe "lineSport" pieces, being the Octa Sport and the Centrigraphe (CTS), were made entirely of aluminum. Yes, aluminum! They were so light, they almost felt fake (seriously). They were not fake, they were just absurdly light, and absurdly cool.
SJX Watches
Episode 31 of the SJX Podcast digs into two major industry reports - one from Vontobel on the primary market and one from EveryWatch on the secondary - and what they reveal about where value is concentrating in the watch industry. SJX and Brandon discuss the K-shaped nature of the market, the dominance of F.P. Journe among independents, and Cartier’s remarkable ability to sell across every price tier. The discussion also touches on the role of emotion in driving purchase decisions, the financialisation of the hobby, and why market reports have limited utility for collectors. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
SJX Watches
Independent watchmaker Armin Strom has upgraded its flagship complication with a precious stone dial. The Mirrored Force Resonance Ruby is a five-piece limited edition with a dial cut from natural ruby. Initial thoughts Armin Strom is arguably the second-most prominent watchmaker (after F.P. Journe) to successfully bring “resonance” watches to market. We extensively covered the subject of coupled oscillator watches recently, which examines Armin Strom’s unique approach to achieving this mysterious effect. Within this narrow niche, Armin Strom’s Mirrored Force series is certainly the broadest collection of resonance watches on the market, with multiple movements and many variations exploiting the almost magic coupling between two sprung balances. This new limited edition employs the familiar in-house caliber ARF21, which connects the two hairspring by a long, swivelling blade spring - dubbed the Resonance Clutch Spring. While the movement is certainly well known, this particular iteration of the watch is quite surprising: a thin slice of natural ruby serves as the dial, with all the imperfections and liveliness of a natural mineral. Using a ruby dial is not only aesthetically appealing but poetic for a mechanical watch. The jewels serving as bearings inside every movement are synthetic rubies - a fancy sort of industrial mineral glass. The uneven bright pink and violet shades of the Mirrored Force Resonance Ruby’s dial assure us there is nothing artificial...
SJX Watches
Resonance watches are among the most elusive machines in modern watchmaking. Creations such as F.P. Journe’s Chronomètre à Résonance perform well at auctions, commanding high prices. While their rarity and appeal are undeniable, watches that purport to harness resonance tend to be viewed with a degree of skepticism. A measure of skepticism is understandable - the concept of sprung balances becoming almost magically coupled is anything but straightforward and requires a profound understanding of oscillators in general. This story seeks to shed some light on the concept of coupled oscillators by explaining the two models of coupling and explore the nuances of each system. Before exploring resonance, the reader is encouraged to review the basics of sprung oscillators and isochronism in order to become more familiar with the hairspring and balance wheel model. The F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance Souscription No. 2 sold for more than CHF3 million in November 2025. A confusion of terms First, the term resonance itself requires definition. In classical physics (mechanics, electrical engineering, signal processing, etc.) resonance is a phenomenon where a system vibrates under the influence of an external driving force that matches the system’s eigenfrequency (natural frequency). This is to say that a system at rest, which includes mass and spring elements, can be excited into a state of resonance by an external force when particular conditions are met. An imp...
Video
Chasing records for over a decade with the Octo Finissimo, Bvlgari takes the next step in the collection's saga, as it sizes down from 40mm to 37mm across. Not only does this mean re-engineering virtually every aspect...
SJX Watches
On episode 19 of the SJX Podcast, we unpack the news that Francis Ford Coppola is selling his personal F.P. Journe FFC prototype at Phillips in a few weeks (along with most of his other watches). We also discuss the legacy of F.P. Journe, which is coming into sharper focus ahead of the opening of his museum next year. The centrepiece of the museum is set to be the Breguet Sympathique no. 1, which Mr Journe acquired earlier this year for CHF5.51 million including fees (equivalent to US$6.61 million). Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.
Monochrome
Watchmaking prizes and competitions have a remarkable virtue. Their primary vocation is to discover new talents and bring them into the spotlight. A perfect example is the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition, which has been celebrating and supporting young independent watchmakers since 2012. For me, this award was the opportunity to discover the extraordinary talent […]
Quill & Pad
The Sartory-Billard SB04-E offers many of the traditional benefits of the indie buying experience, including exclusivity, a unique vision, and the pleasure of knowing your watchmaker. At well under €5,000, these editions are proof that you don’t need an F.P. Journe budget to buy independent.
SJX Watches
Independent watchmaking has been important in the auction space for some time now, both in terms of repute and value. The recent Geneva auctions, for example, saw a new record set for the most expensive timepiece made by an independent – over US$8.32 million with fees for the F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité prototype “15/93”. Now as the auction season moves to Hong Kong, we bring you some of the interesting examples of independent pieces watching up going on the block at Phillips’ Hong Kong auction on November 22-24. It’s a two-part event: first Toki, a theme sale dedicated to watches related to Japan, and the traditional sale of varied offerings. The catalogues with online bidding for Toki and HKWA XIX. TOKI Lot 111 – Masahiro Kikuno Tourbillon 2012 Part of the TOKI sale are timepieces crafted by Japanese independent watchmakers. One such piece remarkable is this unique wristwatch with a tourbillon regulator from Masahiro Kikuno, a low profile but talented craftsman. An up-and-coming independent watchmaker, Masahiro Kikuno is one of the youngest members of the AHCI. The auction debut for Mr Kikuno, the present wristwatch was firstly presented at Baselworld 2011, along with a similar one encased in silver. The watch is unmistakably hand made and original in many respects, ranging from the fluid 18k gold case to the patterned dial to the movement architecture. Although executed in the traditional way, the movement has an unusual construction, ...
Time+Tide
There are a lot of stories in watches, and these four have more to say than most, with a unique Rolex, an early F.P. Journe, and more. The post Phillips Reloaded auction brings the best of neo-vintage to the market appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Watches are officially getting smaller at Watches & Wonders 2026, and I have some strong opinions on the new releases from Bulgari and A. Lange & Söhne.
SJX Watches
One of the most esoteric offerings in Only Watch 2024 is the Barbier-Mueller Mosaïque II. A follow-up to the first edition made in 2017, the Mosaïque II sticks to the same template that was originally inspired by a 19th century pocket watch with an inlaid case. It’s essentially an F.P. Journe Chronometre Souverain with a slightly larger case inlaid with semi-precious stones and a hinged hunter back. This also makes F.P. Journe the only brand with two watches – the other is the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu – in the upcoming charity auction that takes place on May 10, 2024. Initial thoughts I liked the original version because it was recognisable as an F.P. Journe watch, yet entirely different. The Mosaïque II holds the same appeal, albeit at a far higher price given the increased demand for F.P. Journe in the years since. While in 2017 one could reasonably hope to buy the first Mosaïque for a high five-figure price – in fact it sold for a trifling CHF90,000 – the Mosaïque II will almost certainly end up in the high six- or even seven figures. Affordability aside, the Mosaïque II is a little more interesting than its predecessor because of the floral motif as well as the materials; the bloodstone inlays are a particularly striking backdrop for the other stones. The inlays are also more complex, with both the dial and back inlaid with stones in a mix of shapes and sizes. A Geneva museum Located along a small street in Geneva’s Old Town is the Barbier-Mueller Mus...
SJX Watches
With the current popularity of independent watchmaking, the proportion of auction catalogues dedicated to the genre has grown. At the same time, the obvious slowdown in the market means prices have moderated. The result is a more diverse offering of independent watchmaking, and at lower prices than 18 months ago. The upcoming Phillips’ Geneva auction illustrates this. We take a look at some of the notable examples of independent watchmaking, including a Middle East edition from F.P. Journe, a glow-in-the-dark Voutilainen World Timer, and a trio of time-only watches that are all interesting yet entirely different from Philippe Dufour, Paul Gerber, and Charles Frodsham. The Geneva Watch Auction: XIX takes place over two days on May 11 and 12 the Hotel President in downtown Geneva (a change from the traditional venue of La Reserve). The full catalogue is available on Phillips.com. 62 – F.P. Journe lineSport Chronograph Rattrapante Eastern-Arabic numerals Notably good value in titanium, the lineSport Chronograph Rattrapante is less affordable in platinum but certainly more special, and much more substantial. While the titanium and gold versions are relatively conventional in terms of aesthetics, the platinum version is unusual with its purple dial that works surprisingly well. Like most F.P. Journe movements, the calibre inside is slim, a feat considering the additional height required for the rattrapante mechanism. The split-seconds is done in the traditional manner with...
SJX Watches
I am pleased to end the year with new additions to the team – Brandon Moore and David Ichim. Both occasional contributors before, Brandon and David will now become regular, exclusive contributors. Brandon’s writings explore the diversity of watchmaking and watch collecting. Amongst his recent stories are a visit to F.P. Journe’s manufacture, as well as its dial- and case-making facility. Brandon also recounted his experience learning traditional engine turning at a guilloche workshop by Nico Cox. And scheduled for January 2024: his story covering a visit to Akrivia’s workshops in Geneva. David’s contributions are more technically oriented, with the most recent being a detailed analysis of the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum that explains why it might be the ultimate F.P. Journe chronomètre. A freshly-eroded remontoir spring at the F.P. Journe manufacture At the same time, Russell Sheldrake will be departing in early February 2024 – we wish him well. Finally, Oliver R. Müller of LuxeConsult is no longer a contributor to SJX Watches. He contributed a handful of articles from 2020 to 2023; these articles are no longer available on the site. Mr Müller is no longer associated with us in any form. Any queries can be directed to us via the contact form.
SJX Watches
Christie’s autumn sale season in Hong Kong is led by Important Watches, a 146-lot sale featuring independent watchmaking, reflecting the genre’s current popularity. Notably, the season will also feature the first sale of the OAK Collection belonging to French collector Patrick Getreide. In this compilation, we examine nine lots by independents ranging from watchmakers that are practically establishment now, like Voutilainen and F.P. Journe. Amongst the highlights from the OAK Collection are several unique watches made for past Only Watch auctions, one of the rare occasions these one-off watches are returning to market. Important Watches (lots 2201-2343) begins at at 1:00 pm on November 26 – the catalogue is available here. It will be followed by the OAK Collection sale (lots 2501-2639) at 6:30 pm – see the full catalogue here. Both sales take place at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. Lot 2242: Gerald Genta Arena Mickey Mouse With the revival of Gerald Genta by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), there has been a renewed interest in the timepieces it crafted in the past. Watches produced during the era when the brand was owned Bulgari have received less attention, although some are equally interesting, like this Arena Mickey Mouse. Gerald Genta debuted its Fantasy line featuring Disney characters in the 1990s. That evolved into the Arena Fantasy in the 2000s, which included this particular 80-piece edition made in around 2009. The watch combines the fami...
Worn & Wound
Ludovic Ballouard’s Upside Down, first seen in 2010, is one of independent watchmaking’s most inventive and whimsical creations. Ballouard started his own brand after stints working with big names like Franck Muller and F.P. Journe (he was handpicked by Journe to work on his most complex movement, the Sonnerie Souveraine), and his signature complication is quite unlike anything else. The Upside Down’s conceit is that it displays each hour upside down except the current hour, which is flipped right side up when the minute hand crosses 12:00. It’s an incredibly complicated design, the purpose of which, according to Ballouard, is to “treasure the time we are in.” It’s also just a very cool party trick, and the platform for the latest release from Grail Watch, Wei Koh’s ongoing series of dream collaborations. The new Upside Down seen here isn’t a brand to brand collaboration like previous Grail Watch releases, but a heartfelt partnership between Ballouard and his young son, Gabriel, or “Gaga” for short. Wei Koh asked Ballouard if Gabriel could be involved in the creation of this watch after hearing Ballouard’s incredible story of becoming a parent. He lost his first wife, Eveline, to cancer, some years ago, but not before she told him of her hopes that he’d remarry and have a family. This seemed impossible to Ballouard at first, but he eventually met Flavia during his daily walk in Parc Bertrand in Geneva. She changed his life, and they soon become ...
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SJX Watches
In 2017, the original Barbier-Mueller Mosaïque made its first public appearance at Only Watch. The collaborative efforts of longtime friends Stéphane Barbier-Mueller and François-Paul Journe, one being the preeminent independent watchmaker and the other a member of one of a Swiss real estate dynasty, this was an unexpected and rather pleasant surprise. Now, the pair have returned with the Mosaïque II, follow up to their initial offering, sticking to the same principles as before, but with the eye of watch designer Eric Giroud. Initial thoughts Those who are fans of the original will be pleased to see all of the main traits have been carried over to this latest version. The stone work on the dial, case and hinged caseback is all there, and the two hander runs on the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain movement – in fact, it is essentially an elaborately inlaid Chronomètre Souverain. If anything, they have elevated their previous efforts by incorporating more types of semi-precious stones in order to execute Mr. Giroud’s design. While Mr Giroud’s eye has given the Mosaïque II a different feel from its predecessor, the new watch still reflects Mr Barbier-Mueller’s interest in arts and culture, which was the basis for the original Mosaïque. Besides being a shareholder in F.P. Journe, Mr Barbier-Mueller is also a member of the family that established the Barbier-Mueller Museum in Geneva that’s famous for its world-class collection of tribal art. The original M...
SJX Watches
A prominent figure thanks to his Instagram account documenting his impressive collection of independent watchmaking, Mike “Shani” Shanlikian is an American collector who watches that are widely regarded as the most important in the genre, including the Philippe Dufour Simplicity, F.P. Journe Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite, and Rexhep Rexhepi Chronometre Contemporain. Mr Shanlikian was recently interviewed by George Mayer, the head of sales at pre-owned watch retailer Watchbox. Himself a watch aficionado (and sporting an F.P. Journe Octa Perpetuelle with matching bracelet), Mr Mayer quizzed Mr Shanlikian on his collection and delved into his motivations for collecting independent watchmaking in the 23-minute video interview. An F.P. Journe tourbillon duo. Image – Mike Shanlikian The Akrivia AK-06 and RRCC I. Image – Mike Shanlikian A few watches from the collection. Image – Mike Shanlikian Watchmaking is a fusion of science and art, according to Mr Shanlikian, who notes in the increasing interest in independent watchmaking was driven by F.P. Journe and comparable brands that rely on traditional methods to create watches. He showcases some favourites from his collection in the video, including the “1 in 30” Chronometer by American watchmaker Keaton Myrick. But the most significant watches are documented in the video are the George Daniels Millennium and Dufour Simplicity, matched by their contemporary counterparts, the Rexhep Rexhepi’s Akrivia AK-06 and Gre...
SJX Watches
Sotheby’s autumn sale season takes place in early October, led by Important Watches I, a live auction in Hong Kong. The 249-lot sale is diverse but especially impressive in three categories, namely avant-garde complications, unorthodox sports watches, as well as independent watchmaking. We have round a magnificent seven of the “indies”, which naturally includes a Philippe Dufour Simplicity – 34 mm and guilloche dial – along with several limited-edition watches from F.P. Journe, now perhaps the establishment independent brand, and also a few more timepieces that are arguably underrated and potentially value-buys. Important Watches I starts at 10:00 am (GMT +8) on October 5, 2022. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 2178: Philippe Dufour Simplicity 34 mm A watchmaker famed for his unmatched focus on movement decoration, Philippe Dufour has only produced a handful of models across a five-decade career, but is often regarded as one of the greats thanks to his artisanal approach to classic Vallee de Joux watchmaking. While he’s made more complex watches, he is perhaps best known for the Simplicity, a fuss-free, time-only watch that does only one thing but does it well: impeccable movement finishing. Going under hammer at Sotheby’s is a classic example of the Simplicity, one that’s almost identical to the one Mr Dufour himself wears. Well suited to purists, this example is 34 mm, white gold, and fitted with a guilloche ...
Hodinkee
After a collector friend called the Octa Quantième Perpétuel "the biggest miss in horological journalism in recent years," we knew it was time to take a closer look at this overlooked F.P. Journe.
SJX Watches
Phillips sold US$74.5 million of watches during its recent Geneva auctions, the besting the two-decade old record set by Antiquorum in 2002 for the biggest watch auction ever. Now it the focus shifts to Hong Kong for the fall watch sale in the city. Amongst the top lots in Geneva were important creations by independent watchmakers, including the Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie wristwatch that sold for US$5.2 million, as well as an F.P. Journe Resonance Souscription that achieved US$4.3 million (fees included). Fortunately there are fine examples of the genre for far less money at the upcoming Hong Kong auction. We round up some of the most notable – and possibly overlooked – in the sale, including the little-known F.P. Journe Octa “France-China”, the rarely-seen Haldimann H11, and a pair of quirky watches by Vianney Halter (but designed by Pascal Pages). The movement of the H11 The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIII takes place on November 25 (for lots 801-852) and November 26 (lots 853-1106). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available on Phillips.com. Lot 841: Harry Winston Opus 3 by Vianney Halter Perhaps the most complicated watch ever conceived by Vianney Halter is the Opus 3, which was originally a collaborative effort between the watchmaker and American jeweller Harry Winston. Entirely digital in its time display, the Opus 3 has no hands, but instead six apertures on its face. The date occupies the two windows in the centre, with the left co...
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