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Quartz Crisis

1969-1985 industry collapse triggered by the Seiko Astron. Cost Swiss watchmaking two-thirds of its workforce; rebounded via Swatch Group consolidation and Biver's Blancpain.

Wiki · Guide
The Quartz Astron Launch Seiko

Christmas Day 1969: Seiko launches the world\'s first quartz wristwatch and detonates the Swiss watch industry.

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Seiko 5 Sports Honda Motocompo Limited Edition: Scooter Yellow in 36.4mm

Eight thousand pieces. One very specific shade of yellow. Seiko and Honda celebrate the Motocompo's 45th anniversary with a watch that's hard to ignore.

Exclusive · Guide
Limited Edition Seiko Turtle HBB002: PADI's 60th in Sunburst Blue

Seiko's Prospex Turtle HBB002 marks PADI's 60th anniversary. Electric sunburst blue dial, ceramic bezel insert, 200m water resistance, an 8,000-piece run, and a €750 price tag that puts it squarely in the impulse-buy bracket for a real diver.

Grand Seiko’s Evolution 9 Refresh Arrives - with Tapered Quick-Adjust Bracelets SJX Watches
Grand Seiko s Evolution 9 Refresh Jun 25, 2026

Grand Seiko’s Evolution 9 Refresh Arrives - with Tapered Quick-Adjust Bracelets

The much-anticipated refresh of Grand Seiko’s Evolution 9 line has arrived with new bracelets for six existing dials, as well as a newcomer and a mid-sized version of the fan favorite Lake Suwa. This brings much improved bracelets to Grand Seiko’s upmarket (and very successful) Evolution 9 line, fueling Seiko’s global ambitions for its flagship luxury brand. Moonlit Lake Suwa (SLGB007) Initial thoughts If the UFA Ushio Diver launched earlier this year proved anything, it’s that Grand Seiko is listening to its customers, and those customers want slim watches, case back power reserve indicators, better bracelets, and a tool-less quick adjust clasp. The Evolution 9 line, launched six years ago in 2020, met half of these requirements, being let down by only the bracelet. With this refresh, the Evolution 9 becomes an even more competitive, and compelling, collection. Grand Seiko’s in-house quick-adjust clasp. Image – Seiko Watch Corporation Unfortunately, the changes also come with a significant movement downgrade for the Spring Drive models, replacing the extended power reserve cal. 9RA2 with the simplified cal. 9RB2. That said, the UFA designation will be seen as a significant upgrade to all but the nerdiest collectors, making it a coup for Grand Seiko as the new movement adds value for the customer while presumably being less expensive to manufacture. Cal, 9RB2. Image – Seiko Watch Corporation But before you run out to buy one of the five-day Spring Drive watch...

Grand Seiko Announces a Major Refresh for the Evolution 9 Collection Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Announces Jun 24, 2026

Grand Seiko Announces a Major Refresh for the Evolution 9 Collection

Grand Seiko has announced a major refresh in their Evolution 9 collection across multiple metals and movements, and incorporating enthusiast favorite dial designs. A total of nine new watches have been announced as part of the update, and together they serve as what appears to be a new standard for Grand Seiko’s flagship collection. There’s a lot to chew on here, and depending on what interests you about Grand Seiko (or where you feel they have shortcomings) a number of different aspects of this update might be what draws you in. Everything they’ve announced, though, represents tangible improvement over what came before.  First, the news that many enthusiasts will probably zero in on immediately: Grand Seiko’s micro-adjustable clasp now appears to be standard. After introducing it last year in a limited fashion, there were plenty of gripes about backwards compatibility and options for the future. The message here seems to be that the more heavily tapered bracelet with micro-adjustment built into the clasp will be a regular feature across Evolution 9 watches. Importantly, for these releases, that applies to both 37mm and 40mm references.  Grand Seiko is also standardizing their premium alloys in steel and titanium in the Evolution 9 collection. Of the new watches introduced this week, the seven in steel are all in Grand Seiko’s Ever-Brilliant Steel alloy, which has a more lustrous shine and shows off Grand Seiko’s finishing more dramatically than standard stee...

Introducing: Grand Seiko Updates The Core Evolution 9 Collection With Tapered Bracelets And Micro-Adjustment Clasps (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Grand Seiko Updates Jun 24, 2026

Introducing: Grand Seiko Updates The Core Evolution 9 Collection With Tapered Bracelets And Micro-Adjustment Clasps (Live Pics)

What We Know Today, Grand Seiko introduces nine new variants to the three-hander, time-and-date models in its Evolution 9 collection. If you're feeling overwhelmed by that already, don't worry. Yes, there's quite a bit of nuance to unpack here among all these references, but not all nine are really new watches, per se. Many of them are existing models, just slightly modified. If you've read the title of this article, you'll already know that the biggest updates to these Evolution 9 models are things that collectors have long clamored for— tapered bracelets and clasps with tool-free microadjustment. Yes, for those who weren't able to achieve a perfect fit with previous Evolution 9 models, they will be able to now and can adjust accordingly, especially in hotter months with more wrist swelling. The clasp design comes from the original Evolution UFA SLGB003 model introduced last year, but now has spread to the rest of the collection, in both steel and titanium versions, and both 37mm and 40mm. Gone are the 5-day Spring Drive 9RA2 calibers used in the collection, replaced entirely with the U.F.A caliber 9RB2. This means that for those who found the 37mm U.F.A models too small, the more classic 40mm versions now get the ultra-accurate caliber that features an annual rated accuracy of +/- 20 seconds (timing per month is quoted at +/- 3 seconds). This is a big deal, and I think it suggests that Grand Seiko could be making a move to replace all of its Spring Drive calibers down ...

First Look - Grand Seiko Updates its Classic Evo9 Collection Models with Spring Drive UFA Calibre and a New Bracelet Monochrome
Grand Seiko Updates Jun 24, 2026

First Look - Grand Seiko Updates its Classic Evo9 Collection Models with Spring Drive UFA Calibre and a New Bracelet

Just a couple of hours ago, we introduced one of Grand Seiko‘s new models for 2026, the Spring Drive UFA 40mm Lake Suwa SLGB007. And yes, we decided to give this model its own dedicated article, being a new reference in the Evolution 9 collection. However, there is more coming from Japan… Grand Seiko has […]

First Look - The New 37mm Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Lake Suwa SLGB015 Monochrome
Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Lake Jun 24, 2026

First Look - The New 37mm Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Lake Suwa SLGB015

Back in April 2025, as the highlight of Watches and Wonders, Grand Seiko unveiled an important new duo of models for its Evolution 9 collection: the titanium SLGB003 and the platinum SLGB001. A new 37mm case, an unprecedented and appealing new dial texture, finally a micro-adjustment on the clasp and, most importantly, the launch of the new calibre 9RB2, also known […]

Grand Seiko Launches Four New References In The Updated Evolution 9 Hi-Beat Collection Fratello
Grand Seiko Launches Four New References Jun 24, 2026

Grand Seiko Launches Four New References In The Updated Evolution 9 Hi-Beat Collection

Here we are, just a couple of short months after Watches and Wonders 2026, and Grand Seiko is pressing the launch button in a major way. Today, we’ve got live photos of the refreshed Evolution 9 collection, which encompasses five new Spring Drive and four new Hi-Beat models. This is one of the most important […] Visit Grand Seiko Launches Four New References In The Updated Evolution 9 Hi-Beat Collection to read the full article.

The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive U.F.A. Models Get Serious Fan-Requested Updates Fratello
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive Jun 24, 2026

The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive U.F.A. Models Get Serious Fan-Requested Updates

The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 core collection gets an update with five new Spring Drive references — SLGB007, SLGB009, SLGB011, SLGB013, and SLGB015. They are not limited editions, nor are they wild departures from the collection’s existing visual language. Instead, Grand Seiko refreshes the core Spring Drive side of its flagship Evolution 9 lineup with […] Visit The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive U.F.A. Models Get Serious Fan-Requested Updates to read the full article.

Seiko’s Latest is a Series of Silk Inspired Watches in the Presage Collection Worn & Wound
Seiko s Latest Jun 23, 2026

Seiko’s Latest is a Series of Silk Inspired Watches in the Presage Collection

When you think about it, silk is an absolutely fascinating material. Dating back thousands of years to Neolithic China, the labor-intensive process has produced one of the finest, softest materials produced by man. But what is it about that process that makes silk so unique and rare that people pay thousands of dollars for, say, a silk scarf? Well, to be honest, it’s probably not what you expected. You see, silk begins with silkworms being fed a diet of mulberry leaves. When they’re ready to enter their metamorphosis, the worms begin secreting a filamentous protein for their cocoon, which is then harvested, softened, spooled, and ultimately made into the fiber we consider a luxury. Pretty gross neat, huh? Well, it seems Seiko thinks so, too. The brand’s latest additions to the Presage Classic Series are inspired by Tomioka silk, a premium variety produced around the Tomioka Silk Mill in Gunma Prefecture. And while this is not the first time Seiko has used the Presage platform to honor Japanese craft, this might be one of the collection’s prettiest releases (in my humble opinion).  Looking first at the Tomioka Silk Promotion Organization Limited Edition, it’s easy to see the inspiration (and namesake for this particular reference) at first glance. Its white dial is finished with a pearl-like coating, while the rose gold-colored case and dark brown leather strap are inspired by the brick facade of the mill. The three additional models use the same silk-inspired di...

Textile Textures: Seiko Brings ‘Tomioka Silk’ to the Presage SJX Watches
Seiko  Brings ‘Tomioka Silk’ Jun 23, 2026

Textile Textures: Seiko Brings ‘Tomioka Silk’ to the Presage

Seiko’s Presage series has long been the brand’s standard-bearer for affordable dress watches, and the latest Presage Classic Series ‘Tomioka Silk’ celebrates Japan’s 19th-century silk industry, which earned a UNESCO World Heritage designation in 2014. With an easy-wearing 38 mm case and an enthusiast-oriented no-date format, the ‘Tomioka Silk’ collection spans four colourways including an on-trend pistachio green flavour dubbed wakatake-iro. The embossed dial pattern results in a silk-like texture shimmer Initial thoughts Seiko’s Presage Classic Series has been treating watch collectors to a tour of historical Japanese hand crafts, with dials made from materials like Arita porcelain and urushi lacquer. The ‘Tomioka Silk’ collection toes a similar line, but uses a clever optical illusion to simulate the shimmer of the region’s famous silk more convincingly than past editions. While real silk dials do exist, they are understandably uncommon. Seiko’s time-tested approach to textile-textured dials involves embossing a metal dial with a pattern that, at arm’s length, resembles the source material, such as linen, or in this case, Tomioka silk. HCC002 Most watch brands would call this concentric multi-lobed motif ‘guilloche‘, but Seiko correctly avoids this term, choosing instead to emphasise the silk-like visual presentation of the stamped pattern. The dial quality is quite good for the price, which barely breaks four figures. I understand Seiko’...

The Best Summer Watches: Daan’s Picks From Tissot, Sinn, Tudor, Grand Seiko, And Daniel Roth Fratello
Grand Seiko Jun 20, 2026

The Best Summer Watches: Daan’s Picks From Tissot, Sinn, Tudor, Grand Seiko, And Daniel Roth

This article comes right on time, as tomorrow marks the official start of summer here in Amsterdam. Besides, temperatures are already rising well above 30° Celcius here these days, so it’s the perfect moment to think about which watches I’d like to take with me on my family’s summer vacation to the southwest of France […] Visit The Best Summer Watches: Daan’s Picks From Tissot, Sinn, Tudor, Grand Seiko, And Daniel Roth to read the full article.

eBay Finds: Great Vintage Watches from Seiko, Omega, and More for the 150th eBay Finds! Worn & Wound
Omega Jun 19, 2026

eBay Finds: Great Vintage Watches from Seiko, Omega, and More for the 150th eBay Finds!

eBay Finds is back! This bi-weekly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Seiko Pogue 6139-6002  Here’s a sweet classic piece, a vintage Seiko 6139-6002 “Pogue” chronograph. The title says 1971, but the serial number dates this to August 1973. The “Pogue” nickname refers to Colonel William Pogue who famously wore his yellow dial 1972 Seiko 6139-6005 for his Skylab 4 space mission in late 1973/early 1974. Even though this isn’t the exact Pogue model, pretty much any yellow dialed 6139-600X is referred to as that. The 6139-600X is a superb watch, with killer style and robust construction. The squarish case is instantly recognizable, as is the bright yellow dial. This example is in excellent condition. The case is unpolished with the original brushed finish and crisp edges, the dial is super clean as are the hands. The ‘Pepsi’ tachymeter bezel has a light fade to it, and the watch comes on the correct original H-link steel bracelet. The seller states the watch runs well. This is a very popular watch, and one that is increasingly hard to find in good, original condition at auction. View auction here Vintage Lemania Chronograph  Next is a great looking vintage 1970s Lemania chronograph. This one has a definite 70s style, with the chunky cushion ca...

Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series Supporting The Tomioka Silk Promotion Organization Fratello
Seiko Presage Classic Series Supporting Jun 18, 2026

Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series Supporting The Tomioka Silk Promotion Organization

Seiko’s Presage Classic Series draws inspiration from traditional Japanese colors, materials, and textures for new dial designs. The new HCC001, HCC002, HCC003, and the limited-edition HCC008 feature dials with a wavy concentric pattern that resembles the graceful drape and texture of finely woven Tomioka silk. The first three are stainless steel models with a super-hard […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series Supporting The Tomioka Silk Promotion Organization to read the full article.

First Look - New Silk-Inspired Dials and a 38mm Case Join the Seiko Presage Classic Series Monochrome
Seiko Presage Classic Series Few Jun 18, 2026

First Look - New Silk-Inspired Dials and a 38mm Case Join the Seiko Presage Classic Series

Few line-ups in Seiko‘s catalogue seem as focused on dials as the Presage Classic Series. While most new releases are quick to talk about case materials, bezels, or mechanics, the conversation here almost always starts with colour and texture. We have seen that through porcelain dials, open-heart references, and more recently, the 36mm “Edo Silk” […]

Bring a Loupe: A Grand Seiko Masterpiece, A Patek 570, A Certina DS, And A Jaeger-LeCoultre Uniplan Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin should get your motor Jun 12, 2026

Bring a Loupe: A Grand Seiko Masterpiece, A Patek 570, A Certina DS, And A Jaeger-LeCoultre Uniplan

It's somehow nearly halfway through June, and your reward is a chance for a breather with a few interesting watches to distract you from the heat. While, to my knowledge, Hodinkee has no specific editorial policy for supporting sports teams, given that it's a New York-based publication, it feels only fair to note that I hope the NBA Finals conclude tomorrow and the Knicks get their (long-overdue) chip, and I hope the long-suffering fans get a chance to absolutely freak out. Scorekeeping last week's picks: the Cartier pocket watch sold for €3,980, the Explorer sold, but the auctioneer didn't list the price and hasn't answered my email yet, the Gruen Techno Quadrant sold for €1,300, the Tudor Ranger II for €1,600, the Broad Arrow Polerouter for £6,200, and the Railmaster did not sell. On to the main course. Strays Photo courtesy Dannenberg. If you're looking for ways to jump-start a relationship with a local watchmaker, or if you're simply in the mood for what promises to be an equally fun and maddening series of projects, here's a tantalizing box of Valjoux 72 parts/movements/dials/cases (if yes on chronographs but no on that particular option, here's a box of Tissot parts and here's one of Lemania and Valjoux parts). Crazy for LIP watches? It's your lucky day (well, technically, next Friday is).  Photo courtesy Finarte. Perhaps you, like me, have felt an odd urge toward asymmetric watches of late; if so, this Vacheron Constantin should get your motor running, and, ...

Industry News: Ronda Returns to Mechanical Movements with the Impressive R01 Worn & Wound
Seiko Jun 12, 2026

Industry News: Ronda Returns to Mechanical Movements with the Impressive R01

Typically, not a lot happens in the world of third-party mechanical watch movements. The ETA2824 reigned supreme for decades until Swatch Group stopped openly supplying them, giving way primarily to Sellita, Soprod, and La Joux Perret on the Swiss side, and Miyota and Seiko on the Japanese side. For the most part, the catalogs of those brands stayed relatively unchanged for many years, but now, it appears that there’s a bit of an arms race happening. The days of 42-hour power reserves are over, and brands are now vying for features and specifications once limited to more expensive calibers; to that end, there have been a series of interesting events/releases. First, the COSC announced the creation of the “Excellence Chronometer” standard with a -2/+4 accuracy standard among other considerations. Sellita launched the SW200-2 Power + movements with 65-hour reserves, new gear trains, and other improvements. The CEO of La Joux Perret spoke about the upcoming G-200 caliber, which will feature a 72-hour reserve and antimagnetic properties, on the Hodinkee podcast. And this week, a very exciting new automatic was announced by a surprising source: Ronda. The R150 launched in 2016 Ronda is a well-known Swiss manufacturer that was founded in 1946. Over their 80 years of existence, they have specialized in many things, from component manufacturing to ebauchés and full mechanical movements to, beginning in the 1970s, quartz calibers, which is what they are best known for today....